Trying to FIX a FUJIFILM FINEPIX HS10 CAMERA - No Power
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- Опубліковано 14 лис 2020
- Hi, in this video I attempt to fix a camera sent in by Lee as a thank you for fixing the red Game Boy Pocket in a previous video. This camera will not power on. Can it be fixed?
If you would like to support these videos, please click here / mymatevince
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. - Навчання та стиль
Hi Vince, Glad you enjoyed the Camera .... And thanks again for the offer of returning the Gameboy, it's still working great.
Excellent, thank you Lee :-)
You were not doing a MIRROR check on the chip, but a side by side check!
Yeah I just noticed!
Yeah I thought that immediately too. But that trace he was following was symmetrical, so it didn't matter.
Yeah I was shouting that at the video too
@@Ariannus Me too!
I came to the comments to say the same thing.
BGA, what a bugger to replace. Nice work
Im happy that people are supporting you. I love your trying to fix videos. I fixed a canon 6d by replacing the board a few months ago. I didn't have the patience to actually find the fault. Next time though.
when you look at the underside of the chip, it is reverse to the board. if it is 4 from the right and 3 down.....it would be 4-left and 3 down on the chip. not the same as the board
Yes, well spotted. When I tested it off camera I did it flipped, and I was sure I did it flipped when filming but I didn't!!!!! This will cause confusion on this vid, but it still doesn't change the outcome as the chip balls in the middle on the shorted track are symmetrical, so the shorted solder balls still line up with the hot spot :-)
Thanks Vince. Your videos and your approach at fixing things inspired me to go for fixing a 49' Sony I got for free because only half of the backlight was lighting up and the quoted repair was too expensive.
The thing had two inverter chips for the LED strips. Each chip had one mosfet/coil/cap/diode booster output for common positive and four negatives. One chip didn't do anything, so 4 out of 8 led strips were out.
So, I could compare the bad inverter against the good one. Must be chip failure: no cap shorts, no drive waveform for the mosfet in the boost circuit, and the negatives also didn't switch to ground. Totally dead. ...but...
LED strips in TVs always have a current-limited supply. So, I just connected all of the led strips to the one leftover working chip. Each led strip now receives half of the current they were designed for and the whole screen is less bright. Brightness is not an issue in a bedroom. And the LED strips will have a virtually unlimited lifespan on half current.
So I really hope you keep on doing these "Trying to fix" videos. I know they take vast amounts of time to make. But they are brilliant. I love them.
Thank you :-) Well done Fluffy, sounds like a great fix.
Be careful when taking apart cameras. If they have a flash, there will be some huge capacitor in there that will shock you really good.
Not sure what voltage is stored for "modern" cameras with LED flashes, but yeah, use caution. I pulled apart a disposable film camera as a kid... and it bit me hard! Had no idea what happened!
Thanks Mobin, I did measure that (it got edited out) and it showed empty..... BUT the cap was huge!!!
@@the1stgreenblob I took apart the flash as a kid so i could watch it charge the capacitor and figure out how it worked found out real quik that things would get me lol.
I have the same camera. Mine has a broken power switch. Waiting until someone here is trying to sell another faulty one.
I did that with one of the older battery cameras and I touched it lol. It was a nasty shock actually. I touched live electric wire as a kid but the capacitor felt worse.
I really enjoy your full disassembly videos
Great video, Vince. Your diagnostic and fault finding skills have come on in massive leaps and bounds! Well done and keep up the good work!
Is there going to be another series of you, Tronics Fix and others buying, repairing and selling? I really liked the previous series of that.
Stay safe
Thanks Chaos :-) We were chatting about it BUT I don't think anything is going to come of it. Everyone is pretty busy doing their own thing, but who knows what the future will hold :-)
I don't consider the video a failure, we all learned something from it.
Thanks English man :-)
Nice! I absolutely love these! I will watch it after i eat dinner
Awesome. I love watching your videos. I learn something with every video
It's almost midnight but I like these videos
I use cameras very similar to this in college
6:41 pm here
@@Random_4400 well I live in the UK
Lot of thanks, I need to repair a HS20EXR and coudn´t continue.... until you showed the "screws down the flash" tip, now I know how to continue...
unbelievable u ve pointed out where the error is. u always surprise me Vince. Go on! :)
Great video
even though u couldn’t repair it still learnt a lot from it 😅
Perfect. It looks like you found the fault and that's what's interesting.
Thanks Leon :-)
You're spoiling us Vincent 🤣
I was just going to say you didn’t reverse mirror on the bottom of the chip but I see plenty others have already mentioned it 😁 still an interesting vid . I think you should still get a stencil and some solder paste and have a crack at re-balling a chip , you got nothing to lose 👍🏻
Why is it that every time Vince says, " Time for the bench power supply", I hear Kenneth Williams saying, "FRYING TONIGHT!" ? Glad you enjoyed yourself Vince, dread to think how much time that took IRL. Old fashioned mechanical cameras are much more rewarding to tinker with, no electrickery magic smoke to escape from the "Thingy". The things we do in lock down ........
Loved that , I do like u finding and fixing but I do enjoy it when u can’t fix it too
2 vince videos in one day? nice
Vince as a new electronics hobbyist, I find your content particularly helpful because I always learn something that helps me with fault finding my electronics projects. Thanks for letting us watch along with you as you learn. Great educational content mate.
Vince you the man!
Epic tear down - those look scarey to work on for sure! One thing to note with modern CPUs, they can have a low resistance to ground on the supply rail. That said, I don't think this chip would qualify for that type of thing. I am talking things like the i7, i9 or Ryzen etc. I also think the locality of the heating there was a clue that the chip was the fault - ie. one spot on the chip super hot would suggest it is the chip.
So many parts Chris and this one was 10 years old. A modern version must be a complete nightmare to work on.
Yeah I remember the low resistance to ground thing on a PS3 video with all the caps showing a short. In this vid I am hoping it was the chip (fingers crossed), the fact that the cap and coil had nearly a full short pushing that short into the other chip makes me believe it was. When the wider viewers see it hopefully we will know for sure :-)
Such a shame nice camera, can’t wait to see how this turns out.
Edit: So stupidly annoying when replacement parts aren’t available. Damn good vid though Vince.
great video, i know this is old, but when you diagnose a chip like that, you should flip the count from left to right, since you placed it upside down to test the points, so when you counted at first at the board at the left, it is exactly where you found the short on the right of the chip
My dad has the same camera
It’s a very capable camera and he loves his
Another enjoyable video Vince
I’ve been on board with your channel for a while now and I’ve still not watched everything
Nevertheless we want more my mate Vince!!!!
These are excellent cameras. I've owned 3, similar models. When you flipped the chip, you reversed what you were checking (everyone has already pointed out) - The 4 balls that were ground, you were assuming were the 'other' four balls. So isn't the logic that the four balls were shorted to ground, which of course they were - they WERE ground (again cause they were reversed). Personally I would say you should get yourself a BGA stencil (from china - very cheap) for that chip and give it a go placing the chip back on the board, it really isn't that hard. I do enjoy your 'rabid' desire to do everything to find the fault... it keeps me coming back over and over. Thanks mate.
Your like the sixth person that has said that! Vince must lose his mind reading through comments from annoying people! Poor guy!
@@doiron12 Oh sorry just trying to be helpful that the Camera is worth the save, and that he did make an error. Oh BTW FU. Unsubscribe... sorry Vince.
Failure or not, still informative.
I thought 3d puzzle was hard... boy I was silly :D greetings from Poland :D
Hi vince another great video what make/model is your new power supply thanks
Hey Vince :-) It is a Uniroi 32V 10A bench power supply. I haven't used it enough yet to really know if I am happy with it. It was one of the cheaper units from Amazon :-)
Nice disassembly! I have the same model with a non working flash. Do you know where the problem might lie?
Awesome job finding the fault, Wonder what caused the short in the first place.
Yeah I wonder if when it fell, the shock damaged the CPU????
Hi Vince, Great video as always but, there are a few surface mount fuses on that board labelled F1, F2, F3, did you continuity check these ?
Hey Mark. I did, I can't remember if it was left in the video as loads was cut out, but I measured for continuity and also voltage through them. They looked fine to me :-)
Really enjoyed that 😊
Thanks Kip, and I enjoyed your Wicker Man ride vid :-) I never knew that thing existed, I love the original 1970s film so me thinks a 2021 trip to Alton Towers will be done, haven't been in over 20 years!!!
@@Mymatevince Haha. I've been 3 times this year alone. It's my happy place 😊
@@kiphakes Haha🤣🤣
Vince If find a different one with busted lens maybe use the board, or try reball the chip, it came out unexpectedly easy.
Vince, one tip when chasing switch issues, If the switch goes to ground (in the on state) then the other side will always have a voltage to it when off (maybe 5 or 3vdc depending on logic). Just mentioning for future issues like this. Once I would test the switch works and I know it's got ground then I would test for a voltage at the other lead of the switch line. If you have none then it's likely the chip it goes to is out.
That is super helpful. Thanks for sharing it :-)
Very interesting ! It will allow me to fix a focusing problem that I have with the same FinePix HS10. It seems that I have to tight the screws holding and positioning the image sensor. I you have some images of it I'll greatly appreciate if you could share them. Thanks
What a shame vince! I was expecting those B rolls! Haha now you need a second camera. We need those b rolls! Cheers mate
Sorry about that video can I change the HS 30 to HS 10 or swapping their board.
Is it going to work out for me, cause mine is HS 30 and my camera is not turning on at the moment but you video is helpful. I'll be waiting for your reply.thanks
Hey Vince, so my gameboy advance sp ags-001 is having a problem with the motherboard, it’s causing my screen to only show a blank image when turned on. I was wondering what the possible issues with this would be because I used the screen on a different mother board and it worked completely fine. The sound works perfectly and it runs games like it should but i can’t seem to get any image to show up for any of the games i’ve tried. Sometimes a fuzzy picture comes back from what the game should look like but then if i move any button at all it goes white again. Hope this issue can be troubleshooted!
Thanks again for creating such great content!
Vince you could maybe cut trace on PCB where square short is appear to disconnect that faulty area. Then, the rest of the track should have connection without short to ground.
I have been told that before, it is a really good idea that I NEED to remember. Thanks Solve :-)
have you thought about buying a heat camera as sometimes extra heat can mean a problem.. might be usefull as a way to find faults
Great video 👍
Nice one AR, in your opinion do you think that the short was on the chip? A few comments suggest otherwise so I am unsure whether or not the main chip is definitely to blame. No rush to reply :-)
@@Mymatevince I think it is the chip, you could try to apply power to the camera, see if that voltage rail it back up without the main chip and you can see what the voltage should be, but I think those chips runs on 0.8v to 1.1v, That classic ring where the IPA evaporates is a short at 19:30, Just found a other schematic with that chip on and it`s 1.1v, photo-parts.com.ua/parts/Datasheets/KCD-A210-BACH8SchematicDiagrams_ENG.pdf
@@AnonymousRepair Thanks mate for checking it out. I always rely on your comments👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince Anytime
Hi Vince, I stupidly left the batteries in my HS10 for an extended time and they have leaked. I tried to clean up the terminals as best I could but no luck with new batteries. I took the back off the camera (many thanks for your superb video - I would never have known there are 4 screws under the flash connector!) and tried the DC test but only getting 0.6v so I think there is a problem inside where the terminals may have corroded but I suppose I will have to take everything apart to reach the terminals. Just as an aside, is there a mini battery in the back?
Thanks again for a great video.
Yes...there's a tiny button cell next to the main batts... I did replace it in my 20X zoom Canon which is very similar. It's for the time n date memory.
You could try to put back on the cap and inductor and see if there will be voltage and if how much.
I love your videos Vince.
Having said that, i have a broken Nintendo DS lying around, wich i broke myself when trying to fix a faulty cartridge, and inserted it. I think the fuse is gone or one of the important resistors. I decided that that stuff is to small for me and out of my skill zone. (I better stick with retro consoles)
I would like to send it to you so maybe you could make a video of it.
My question is: How would that work?
Anyway, keep making them vids.
So what do you do in cases like this? Do you just put it all in a bag or box in pieces or do you put it back together so you don't have to remember how things go later on if you decide to do more? Because you never know, you might find an identical one at a boot sale.
This one Chad was just boxed up in bits. It would have taken too long to put back together. If I find a board in the future (unlikely) then I can worry about it then :-)
I bought a similar model on ebay but when it arrived it had lots of issues and would not get past the start up screen. I got a refund on it. Rather than bin the camera I thought maybe there is a chance I could get it to work again but I was nervous about taking it to pieces because of thin ribbon cables and plastic bits that might break trying to get the thing open so I've just left it alone for now. Thanks for the video.
Good work finding the fault. At such a low voltage you shouldn't cause any damage. Even most memory voltages are above 1.5V. There is low voltage memory that is 1.35V but even that is okay running with 1.5V
Thanks PDS, you always give the most helpful comments, cheers mate :-)
Had a similar problem with a cannon coolpix the camera wasn’t dropped or mishandled so dunno what the cause of the issue is other than bad design or badly manufactured chip
Did you try refloating the chip? Or even the whole board.
hmm you are matching ball for ball but its a mirror image you should be looking at. so when its sat on the balls the top left ball is the top right on the chip as its upside down if you follow. isnt the four you are testing actually connected on the motherboard? oops seems other have commented the same
Interesting. I have a HS10 and a nice camera..
My very first digital camera from ca. 2003 was a Fuji Finepix, though not nearly as full-featured as this model. It worked well until I dropped it on pavement and the lens would no longer extend. ☹
Great video i think you shoukd get a thermal camera, maybe one that attaches onto a phone I have a Flir One pro for my android...
what would be a bit useful is a thermal camera it should show what is heating up and help to pin point the fault
The computer chip requires a clock signal to work if not it can draw power. You should check the oscillator chip which often breaks if shocked.
I have a feeling that the cpu had overheated at some point and failed, as this is common in alot of the cannon dslr's.
Whenever I read your comments, I hear your voice and accent lol
Vince! Do one on a Nikon Coolpix.
when I saw the lens on that camera I was trying to figure out if the lens on it is part of the camera body, or interchangeable
and it also seems to go way beyond the zoom of the DSLR that I have... Did I see that right? 720mm?
(my one has interchangeable lenses, and the zoom lenses I have are 18-55mm, and 55-250mm)
It’s a bridge camera, so the lens is not removable. Behind the lens is the sensor. So technically it is removable as shown in the video, but only for disassembly and not for swapping lenses
I have same camera, its been sitting in cupboard for a very long time because the power switch gave up, sometimes it would switch on if i turned the switch back a couple of mm, i was hoping tovfind a fix.
WOW, i want to watch full version of it, bcause my HS10 have same problem, in my case is when it turn on and my finger accidently swap the switch by litle, it will restart or just turn off. :') so i have to carefully press the shutter button without touching the switch.
👏
If the power switch pulls a line to ground, it means that is is switching either a transistor (mosfet or BJT) or a power chip with dedicated EN (enable) pin. Search for the chips markings to id which one is the power supply chip and get the datasheet online.
The power chip is probably the one near the shorted inductor. It probably has a over current protection that prevents the chip from enabling because of the shorted cpu
Thanks Thomas. Yes, I think the power chip was that chip near the shorted inductor & cap. I still couldn't find that power switch trace on that chip though, and the pins were accessible. That still confuses me (not hard to do)
Thanks mate :-)
My hs10 have some fungus in the lenses, can you show me how to open the lenses too? I want to clean it.
Hi, do a repair video of DSLR external flash
Hi Vince, You know you can zero out your leads before measuring Ohms, just short your probe leads together en press the REL button.
Hey Jacksat, I have tried that before but it just swaps between 'Auto' and 'Rel' but it doesn't zero the reading. So right now if I short the leads it reads 0.78 Ohm whether or not it is on 'Auto' or 'Rel'. It is a bit strange. I will have to try and download the manual to see if it is possible, or how I can do it. Thanks for commenting :-)
@@Mymatevince You have to push the "rel" button, while simultaneously shorting the leads, so not push "rel" and then short the leads, that will do nothing.
maybe you did it the right way,i couldn't make that out in your post, seems to me that you first push the "rel" button and then short your leads.
@@jacksat2252 Thanks Jacksat, I was shorting the leads and then pressing the 'REL' button. It only allows it to be pressed when the leads are shorted. It doesn't seem to work in any combination. Reading reviews on Amazon, others also states this feature doesn't work, and to deduct the shorted leads resistance from the value, to get the true value. Thanks for telling me though as it would have been a bonus if it did work :-)
@@Mymatevince I think your test leads are poor quality with high resistance if you can justify the cost of some quality test leads probe master are the best or some Fluke branded.
I use both but I have some expensive multimeters if you want an excellent meter without spending a fortune I can recommend the Brymen BM235 these have very decent probe leads, I seem to use them the most although it is the cheapest meter I have.
Here is a link for a video you will like:
ua-cam.com/video/vq83TO2vXg0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=learnelectronics
Hey Vince. I have a fine pix camera which turned on but didn't give me any picture from the lens. I took it apart to see if I could do it but couldn't. It's in bits but it's all yours if you can tie this into your broken one
Thanks for the offer Gullet but I will pass on it. Cheers mate :-)
I have got two Canon SX1IS for free(two different people gave). one had broken lens cable and other had faulty buttons. I managed to make a single working one. But it was damn hard and took me 18 manhours. Compared to Fujifilm, Canon is way harder to take apart and had to keep track of 4 sizes of screws. It is just a potato quality "1080p" footage. My phone does a better job. Watched Hugh Jeffreys, Tronicsfix and Psivewri for past 1 year, and attempted this.
Modern cameras are the same as film ones in one crucial respect,they need to be sent to the appropriate repair department.My Olympus OMD EM10 went dead last year and I sent it off for repair and picked up an EPL3 from Ebay,which had 50,000 shutter cycles on it and it worked fine.My EM10 only had about 6000 shutter cycles on it when it died,£90.00 quid later I found that labour cost accounted for most of what I paid and the shutter cost £12.00.....................
Probably not going to help, but when you were checking the CPU, you were at the wrong side. Should be mirror image.. the right side of the CPU (when upsidedown) will actually be connected to the left of the board. Got to remember you flipped the CPU over so the connections will be flipped...
the trace he was looking at was symmetric, so shouldnt matter that much
I haven't watched it back since editing but pretty sure I was testing the correct side. The heat spot on the chip lined up with the shorted solder balls when flipped :-)
@@Mymatevince look around the 25min mark you say go 4 left (from right side) on circuit board then you go 4 left (from right) on CPU. Should be 4 right from the left on CPU
@@ajd9978 Yep you are quite right, just checked and on camera I didn't swap the sides. This track on the chip is the same on the left and right, so the heat spot does line up with the shorted solder balls but that is going to cause confusion. Thanks for pointing it out as I was sure I filmed it correctly!!! Thank you :-)
is there a way to remove the lenses without having to remove some wires?
When i open my fuji hs10 it shows,,focus error'' on the screen,îs there anything i can do to fix it by myself?
Shoutout to MMV Massive and other patreon supporters!
Thanks Jared :-)
What do you think can cause this kind of short in the first place?
I don't know Jason, I am wondering if the tripod mount/hole damage was linked to it. Maybe it fell whilst it was on and the impact shorted it.
Hey Vince, i have a (premium) analog camera to fix for you. Its a common fault on the ribbon cable (10?) thousands have it. I think you can fix it! How can i reach out?
GR1?
@@jamesdishington6474 Contax TVs but also happens on T2, n
Nikon 35ti.
Normally the best way to reach out is through Patreon
Thanks for the offer SicksomniA but I need to work through what I have at the moment :-)
I’ve got the service manual for that camera if you’re interested.
if you were wrong the fault would remain without the sanyo chip?
I believe so but some comments suggest otherwise :-)
If you have looked att the battery diagram you should have seen 2 of them would sit with ground up in the hatch, you short circuit the kamera..
Wish I had the guts/skills, call it what you will, to repair my Sony A380. The image stabilization is faulty but it's absolutely BURIED inside.
I've repaired other electronic items such as my Sony HT-K215 surround sound amp but nothing this complex.
I guess i'm the 1.6k like on this video not that it matters if i am or not i just thought i'd point that out.
EV4X1-4043777 is the part number but would be cheaper just to buy a new camera or a old one as chip would cost 100 usd
I’m wondering can I send you my controller I completely do not know how to fix it at all
6:45 way more tragic than Titanic.
Ali Express might be getting them back or someone has and old camera where the lens is faulty and you could get the board out of it.
Ello, Mates.
Too late now but this is where you can find the Service manual.
Got one for my surround sound here.
elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=fujifilm+finepix&kategoria=still+camera&kat2=schematics
If the board all shorts on a ground rail, then surely it wouldn't matter if those four on the chip were connected. They would all be in circuit if the board and chip were connected anyway.
Would have liked to see this working 😕
Vice please do ps5 all digital edition in depth guide setup for beginners please 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
I would be annoyd by the long strap being in the way all the time
Your video was or rather is very informative, however, I wish you would not talk so fast. I am old and have some hearing problems and I assume there are many people like me. Thanks again for your efforts and fine video.
You need to be very careful when working on this type of camera (with built-in flash). The capacitor that powers the flash can give you a nasty shock!
Thanks Les, I noticed that it had one huge scary looking cap in it. On this one it was completely discharged but cheers for letting me know :-)
yeah it was a dead chip from the start
1 volt at 2 amps is 2 Watts, that's a lot, so be carefull !...cheers.
It's nothing if the board is multilayer you almost don't get any hotspot. Doing what you say require a couple of thermal calculation
I have a faulty Fuji HS10 which you are welcome to have, to remove the entire board, and maybe make a working camera. Let me know if you'd like it.
Check online for spare cpu, if you lucky you will find one!