Thanks for this informative article: video and text! Here my postive criticism: In the video there is shown how the old oil was let out of the oil pan. Afterwards, the screw of the oil pan was screwed in again. Then, the oil filter was changed. My hint how to do it better: After emptying the oil pan do not screw up the oil pan before having changed the oil filter. Because when changing the oil filter about 0,5 l old oil from the oil filter will run down into the oil pan. And if the screw is closed before, the old oil from the oil filter will remain in the system.
you are 100% correct...what a brain fart I had that day..Cartridge filters always need to be either loosened and let drain, or removed....(loosening will release the anti drainback valve spring and the oil will flow out without pulling the cartridge out while it is still soaked)...I change oil on so many cars with normal spin on filters that I think I just goofed on this one...Thanks for the heads up..I hadn't even noticed I did that...After seeing in my SLs manual that the filter cartridge should be removed completely I checked with a Mercedes tech... He said as long as it's loosened to the point you hear it release the valve and the oil suck out of the cartridge you then can leave the filter in to drain while you remove the drain bolt...keeps from making a mess on your nice clean engine...Thanks again... I'm going to add an annotation to the video
Wow, thanx for the great info. My clk doesn't feel so intimidating now...Oh by the way, i was rear-ended on the 22nd. This has really broken my heart. Good thing is, she'll be in the doctors next week.
Many of us that work on cars would paint the drain plug afterward to ensure that it was sealed and to prevent creative customers with older cars from claiming that their engine drain plug fell out and tried to get a new engine for free.
the filter you just pushed on the stalk looked loose, the filter has a mark on the paper that you make flush with the end cap - it takes a bit of a shove to get it to seat, If you dont do that the filter works as no filter because oil goes around it rather than through it.
I'm pretty sure it went all the way on, and the inner canister seat should push it flush,and hold it in place or it would have a tendency to fall on its own with only friction to hold it up .. but now you have me worried...lol..I'm gonna check it today. Thanks
Hi fupabox, Sorry to bother you on this old thread, but do you remember if you re-checked the filter after this job? Did it seat correctly on the stalk? Thing is that when I was changing the oil & filter on my M112 at the mechanic today, I noticed that mechanic did not put the filter at the mark that zanagvi1978 was talking about. I wonder when you screw the cap in it would push it to the right position anyway against the bottom of aluminium housing. Grateful if you would confirm this. Thanks a lot
Hello and thank you for uploading the video. I have a C320 w203 and do not have a dipstick. was wondering if i could swap the dipstick tube as the one in the video in my c320 m112 engine........ can it be done??
Three questions a a new owner: 1. I have a SLK 320 v-6; I believe that is a M112 E32 engine. Is the procedure the same as the W208 CL class in the video? 2. Do you have a recommended type of suction unit that could be used? 3. Do you have a recommended service manual that is comprehensive, but not cost an arm and a leg? What do you use?
+Chuck Stogner Yes the engine and most of the chassis on the r170 slk is the same as the w202 and w208 I use a 10 liter vacuum extractor...you need one that will hold at least 9 liters since your oil capacity is 8 liters, it's good to have the extra capacity...any brand will work.I happened to get mine on sale for $70 here's your manual check the left of the page for the chapters , just X out and pop-ups..they aren't harmful..I've used it for years workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/slk_320_(170.465)/v6-3.2l_(112.947)/maintenance/alignment/system_information/specifications/alignment_specs/
+fupabox Thank you sir! The Mityvac at $100.00 + is 8.8 liter and Pela Pro 14 at $119.99 (if you can find it). Do you run a tube down the oil filter container or the dipstick and do you know the diameter of those openings? Have you experience with either of these extractors?
Chuck Stogner The Pela Pro 14 is really nice.. a Mercedes tech I know has one..he uses it every day and has never had a problem.. I have no experience with the mityvac. The tube goes into the dipstick hole to extract the oil...even the models with no dipstick have a capped tube on the engine for extracting the oil.. Most vacuum extractors will come with a few different size hoses and adapters the dipstick tube is around 1cm in diameter on the inside
You can fill through the filter housing if you want . I usually do 1/2 and 1/2 through the filler cap so fresh oil gets onto the valves and camshaft before the filter fills up . There's no way to prefill a cartridge filter ..only the cannister ones can be prefilled
Thanks for the video! I'm doing an oil change on a W208 E32 and am looking for good synthetic... how did this work out for you? Additionally, do you know how I can check whether a particular oil meets Mercedes requirements? For some reason the Liqui Moly website doesn't like the W208 as supported... Oil change place has been using Mobil 1 or Castrol GTX but people on forums are advocating for Valvoline... Thanks again!
Hey man thanks for the vid! The ‘someone’ who needs this is me! I think this is the engine in my CLK320. My question is, I have a ticking noise like you’d get if you tapped a screw driver rapidly onto steel/firewall, which increases on acceleration, it’s not that loud and I’ve seen worse on UA-cam, but it’s there. What do you reckon it could be? My other question is, which is the BEST recommended oil for this 3.2 V6 engine in UK conditions?
any good 0w40 or 5w40 )castrol syntech, Mobil one , etc. ) sounds like you may have an exhaust leak , possibly in one of the manifolds. Could be a loose manifold bolt as well . Just for a long shot check as well , open the hood with the engine running in a very dark area. Look to see if there is any spark plug arcing from a bad plug wire . May be tough to see , but worth a check since its easy and free . Other possibilities are bad engine mount allowing something in the engine compartment to rub/vibrate on the firewall , stuck air blend flap in the climate control ,
fupabox thanks for your rapid response m8, if by air blend u mean the air vents inside the cabin then YES I do have one stuck, the driver side one but I thought that was just plastic in the interior lol. Everything you’ve mentioned sounds reasonable. I’d like to mention that on a cold start, for about 2min there’s no noise, until the temperature goes up a little and the noise slowly kicks in. When I look vertically down engine I can see old and even fresh debris/oil. Same when I lift up the car I can see the oil pan sump at the bottom has oil on it. HOWEVER, car drives perfectly and doesn’t miss a beat and if stood still for an entire week, no signs of leakage on the floor anywhere afterwards. V weird! I’d like to also mention that I’m no pro but should by car be sitting at above 80 (coolant/temperature gauge just by the fuel gauge on the instrument cluster) ?? It used to sit at 80 now it sits just above 80 and I’m worried it’ll touch 120. Cheers
@@rikkyash2353 between the 80 and 100 is where it should sit . I'm thinking with your no sound when cold comment .that It could be a broken duo valve . Check this video , and unplug the electrical connector on the valve with engine running . If the ticking goes away the valve is possibly broken ua-cam.com/video/8jhPEfLI45s/v-deo.html
there are many different "fuchs Titan " oils...some synthetic,some semi, your engine requires full synthetic...check this list for approved oils..bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.51_en.html
I used TITAN MC Fuchs 10w-40, I don't have book of my car, and I don't know what kind of oil I must to use on my car c240 w202 m112 v6 1998 123000km runed ... help please... on summer and winter its one or different??
I did years ago on a BMW I had at the time..I have been checking it out again lately,and I'll prob be doing it that way in the future..you're correct..with the right vacuum pump you can actually get more oil out
Thinking about swapping my m112 in my CLK w a m112k from a crossfire.. Do u see any issues with that swap that I would run into.. Is it as simple as I'm thinking it will be since they're basically the same engine
+fupabox Thanks, turns out I'd also need a slightly different transmission as they increased the shift response on the tiptronic system by ~35%.. (That's a down the road project anyway)... I got a somewhat stupid question.. Does my 2001 CLK 320 NOT have a stock rear sway bar?.. Got under there and couldn't find it lol. I'm I going crazy or what..
Matthew Nota It does have a rear bar..just a bit different from the front.. it connects to the bar with a drop link on each side that attaches to the rear axle hub carrier..the main bar is up against the body
+fupabox thanks, got it.. Do u think those links or the 2 bushings need replacing? I recently did the bushings(inner and outer) and one inner mount(it was snapped in half) on the front sway bar resulting in a significant difference in roll over on the front end.. She's got 323,000 original Km's on her and I don't believe the rears have been done..
Thanks for this informative article: video and text!
Here my postive criticism:
In the video there is shown how the old oil was let out of the oil pan. Afterwards, the screw of the oil pan was screwed in again. Then, the oil filter was changed.
My hint how to do it better: After emptying the oil pan do not screw up the oil pan before having changed the oil filter. Because when changing the oil filter about 0,5 l old oil from the oil filter will run down into the oil pan. And if the screw is closed before, the old oil from the oil filter will remain in the system.
you are 100% correct...what a brain fart I had that day..Cartridge filters always need to be either loosened and let drain, or removed....(loosening will release the anti drainback valve spring and the oil will flow out without pulling the cartridge out while it is still soaked)...I change oil on so many cars with normal spin on filters that I think I just goofed on this one...Thanks for the heads up..I hadn't even noticed I did that...After seeing in my SLs manual that the filter cartridge should be removed completely I checked with a Mercedes tech... He said as long as it's loosened to the point you hear it release the valve and the oil suck out of the cartridge you then can leave the filter in to drain while you remove the drain bolt...keeps from making a mess on your nice clean engine...Thanks again... I'm going to add an annotation to the video
Wow, thanx for the great info. My clk doesn't feel so intimidating now...Oh by the way, i was rear-ended on the 22nd. This has really broken my heart. Good thing is, she'll be in the doctors next week.
that sux.. hopefully it comes back with new paint looking better than ever
Many of us that work on cars would paint the drain plug afterward to ensure that it was sealed and to prevent creative customers with older cars from claiming that their engine drain plug fell out and tried to get a new engine for free.
good idea
Thanks for the video! I just followed you step by step!!
thanks for the very informative video!!!(another victory for DIY guys everywhere!!!!).
the filter you just pushed on the stalk looked loose, the filter has a mark on the paper that you make flush with the end cap - it takes a bit of a shove to get it to seat, If you dont do that the filter works as no filter because oil goes around it rather than through it.
I'm pretty sure it went all the way on, and the inner canister seat should push it flush,and hold it in place or it would have a tendency to fall on its own with only friction to hold it up .. but now you have me worried...lol..I'm gonna check it today. Thanks
Hi fupabox,
Sorry to bother you on this old thread, but do you remember if you re-checked the filter after this job? Did it seat correctly on the stalk?
Thing is that when I was changing the oil & filter on my M112 at the mechanic today, I noticed that mechanic did not put the filter at the mark that zanagvi1978 was talking about.
I wonder when you screw the cap in it would push it to the right position anyway against the bottom of aluminium housing.
Grateful if you would confirm this.
Thanks a lot
Thanks for the help!
Awesome videos
Hello and thank you for uploading the video. I have a C320 w203 and do not have a dipstick. was wondering if i could swap the dipstick tube as the one in the video in my c320 m112 engine........ can it be done??
Three questions a a new owner:
1. I have a SLK 320 v-6; I believe that is a M112 E32 engine. Is the procedure the same as the W208 CL class in the video?
2. Do you have a recommended type of suction unit that could be used?
3. Do you have a recommended service manual that is comprehensive, but not cost an arm and a leg? What do you use?
+Chuck Stogner Yes the engine and most of the chassis on the r170 slk is the same as the w202 and w208 I use a 10 liter vacuum extractor...you need one that will hold at least 9 liters since your oil capacity is 8 liters, it's good to have the extra capacity...any brand will work.I happened to get mine on sale for $70
here's your manual check the left of the page for the chapters , just X out and pop-ups..they aren't harmful..I've used it for years
workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/slk_320_(170.465)/v6-3.2l_(112.947)/maintenance/alignment/system_information/specifications/alignment_specs/
+fupabox Thank you sir! The Mityvac at $100.00 + is 8.8 liter and Pela Pro 14 at $119.99 (if you can find it). Do you run a tube down the oil filter container or the dipstick and do you know the diameter of those openings? Have you experience with either of these extractors?
Chuck Stogner The Pela Pro 14 is really nice.. a Mercedes tech I know has one..he uses it every day and has never had a problem.. I have no experience with the mityvac. The tube goes into the dipstick hole to extract the oil...even the models with no dipstick have a capped tube on the engine for extracting the oil.. Most vacuum extractors will come with a few different size hoses and adapters the dipstick tube is around 1cm in diameter on the inside
Thanks for the video, maybe it is a good idea to pre-fill the oil filter? what happens if you fill the oil from the oil filter cap? Just wonder...
You can fill through the filter housing if you want . I usually do 1/2 and 1/2 through the filler cap so fresh oil gets onto the valves and camshaft before the filter fills up . There's no way to prefill a cartridge filter ..only the cannister ones can be prefilled
@@fupabox thank you so much, im about to do the job right now and this is great help!! Greetings from Spain
Thanks for the video! I'm doing an oil change on a W208 E32 and am looking for good synthetic... how did this work out for you?
Additionally, do you know how I can check whether a particular oil meets Mercedes requirements? For some reason the Liqui Moly website doesn't like the W208 as supported... Oil change place has been using Mobil 1 or Castrol GTX but people on forums are advocating for Valvoline...
Thanks again!
Look on the back of the bottle for " meets MB 229. specs" most full synthetics of 5w40 ,10w40 ,0w40 meet the spec.
Hey man thanks for the vid! The ‘someone’ who needs this is me! I think this is the engine in my CLK320. My question is, I have a ticking noise like you’d get if you tapped a screw driver rapidly onto steel/firewall, which increases on acceleration, it’s not that loud and I’ve seen worse on UA-cam, but it’s there. What do you reckon it could be?
My other question is, which is the BEST recommended oil for this 3.2 V6 engine in UK conditions?
any good 0w40 or 5w40 )castrol syntech, Mobil one , etc. ) sounds like you may have an exhaust leak , possibly in one of the manifolds. Could be a loose manifold bolt as well . Just for a long shot check as well , open the hood with the engine running in a very dark area. Look to see if there is any spark plug arcing from a bad plug wire . May be tough to see , but worth a check since its easy and free . Other possibilities are bad engine mount allowing something in the engine compartment to rub/vibrate on the firewall , stuck air blend flap in the climate control ,
fupabox thanks for your rapid response m8, if by air blend u mean the air vents inside the cabin then YES I do have one stuck, the driver side one but I thought that was just plastic in the interior lol. Everything you’ve mentioned sounds reasonable. I’d like to mention that on a cold start, for about 2min there’s no noise, until the temperature goes up a little and the noise slowly kicks in. When I look vertically down engine I can see old and even fresh debris/oil. Same when I lift up the car I can see the oil pan sump at the bottom has oil on it. HOWEVER, car drives perfectly and doesn’t miss a beat and if stood still for an entire week, no signs of leakage on the floor anywhere afterwards. V weird! I’d like to also mention that I’m no pro but should by car be sitting at above 80 (coolant/temperature gauge just by the fuel gauge on the instrument cluster) ?? It used to sit at 80 now it sits just above 80 and I’m worried it’ll touch 120. Cheers
@@rikkyash2353 between the 80 and 100 is where it should sit . I'm thinking with your no sound when cold comment .that It could be a broken duo valve . Check this video , and unplug the electrical connector on the valve with engine running . If the ticking goes away the valve is possibly broken ua-cam.com/video/8jhPEfLI45s/v-deo.html
can I use 10w-40 fuchs titan on my m112 w202 1998 yer?
there are many different "fuchs Titan " oils...some synthetic,some semi, your engine requires full synthetic...check this list for approved oils..bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.51_en.html
I used TITAN MC Fuchs 10w-40, I don't have book of my car, and I don't know what kind of oil I must to use on my car c240 w202 m112 v6 1998 123000km runed ... help please... on summer and winter its one or different??
Ashimovich Yalkun Titan MC is synthetic and is fine to use in your car, summer or winter
***** thank you very much...))
do you have book of w202 1998 c240? can you cut picter for me?:-))
Ashimovich Yalkun no I don't sorry
Have you ever changed oil using vacuum? It's much easier and some say more oil comes out :)
I did years ago on a BMW I had at the time..I have been checking it out again lately,and I'll prob be doing it that way in the future..you're correct..with the right vacuum pump you can actually get more oil out
Thinking about swapping my m112 in my CLK w a m112k from a crossfire.. Do u see any issues with that swap that I would run into.. Is it as simple as I'm thinking it will be since they're basically the same engine
+Matthew Nota As far as I know it is the same engine, so it should work..
+fupabox Thanks, turns out I'd also need a slightly different transmission as they increased the shift response on the tiptronic system by ~35%.. (That's a down the road project anyway)... I got a somewhat stupid question.. Does my 2001 CLK 320 NOT have a stock rear sway bar?.. Got under there and couldn't find it lol. I'm I going crazy or what..
Matthew Nota It does have a rear bar..just a bit different from the front.. it connects to the bar with a drop link on each side that attaches to the rear axle hub carrier..the main bar is up against the body
+fupabox thanks, got it.. Do u think those links or the 2 bushings need replacing? I recently did the bushings(inner and outer) and one inner mount(it was snapped in half) on the front sway bar resulting in a significant difference in roll over on the front end.. She's got 323,000 original Km's on her and I don't believe the rears have been done..
You Need a Different Transmission, Since the type in the 320 is only for 330Nm, But the m112k has around 500Nm
You can Use non-synthetic oil in the m112, but fully-synthetics are preferred! Trust me, saw too Many engines that used bad oil.....