13:20 I think you may be mistaken about a ground being missing from the drawing.. I think the dash lamp gets it's ground from whichever side is not flashing. So for example - to turn left, power goes to 11 and 28 the indicator lamps and also to 20, the dash lamp. It then gets it's ground for 20 by the other wire out of it, through the right turn indicator lamps 13 and 25 and onto their ground. And vice versa, right turn illuminates 13 and 25, and the dash lamp grounds through 11 and 28. The dash lamp is in series with the lamps from the side that is not flashing, and because it is of much higher resistance (Ohms Law) than them, most of the voltage drops across it. Some voltage drops across the indicator lamps, but not enough to illuminate them so they can act as part of the ground circuit. I'm not sure either about your explanation for the diode (one-way valve). It seems to me that the diode just blocks the battery from powering up all those circuits highlighted at 47:30, if the bike is not running or if the generator is not giving out power. In normal operation, maybe the generator is primarily powering up all those circuits, with any excess it generates going towards charging the battery ? I don't know anything about these particular bikes, and it's hard to see the drawing clearly, so just a suggestion. Appreciate you making this video though, and thanks. Thumbs up.
Nice theory, and well explained. I'm very short of time at the mo. I'll report back when I have had chance to re-examine the system. Thanks for raising this :)
I've just had another look at the indicator circuits. I think that you are right. The connection is made after the switch, so yes... the earth is being made through the other filament, on to earth. Nicely spotted. We never stop learning :) RE the one way valve (diode). It definitely allows the bike to be fitted with lamps that are always on, but only when the engine is running. This may be its only purpose. Nice comments Patrick :)
Nice video .. came here because I have both sides on bike blinking when only right should ...I guess it have to do with the common earth/ground... Wish I could learn more about ac/dc ... don't understand how they can have common ground
OMG.... this is a 50 minute video providing a comprehensive understanding of motorbike wiring. It can certainly save you days, or weeks of struggles with electrical fault finding. Yet.... After 11 views I note one person has given it a 'thumbs down'. EDIT... 4 thumbs down now... and yet no comments explaining what the problem was. (though plenty of thumbs up as recompense for the time it took to share the knowledge) You wonder what motivates people to attempt to stop the spread of knowledge.
I am not very bright, and have the same problem with instructors and books, you cant teach with out a foundation, you are a brilliant man, I wish I had your talent. Perfect video for some one who already understands, but for us lay people, we need to know first where the electric starts, like the stator, if it go's to the regulator or what, coils ,points, ect.any more boxes. With out this basic knowledge, it don't make cents. Wish I could get a book or video that would start for the beginning, not the middle like 99% of books and videos. Thank you, hope to make a wise man wiser. Knowing is one thing teaching is another.
Yes... selecting a starting level has always been a major difficulty. It demands an entire series... but that just wasn't on the cards. The thing is... this is specifically a 'wiring video'. All those other things that you mention... they could each demand their own video. I made a decision to cover every element of the diagram... 50 minutes! You can imagine how long it took to make. The objective was to show all the fundamentals, so that a technically minded person can add 'wiring diagrams' to their knowledge base... and if they need a reminder, it's here. ... you'd be surprised how many technically minded people have never got to grips with wiring. So these were the two objectives: A complete tutorial of a typical wiring diagram ... as a resource for the technically minded person. However... I do believe that if you studied the video, and concentrated on just a few elements... I believe that you would gain a full understanding ... because, in fact, the wiring is remarkably simple. It all resolves down to a cable, passing through a switch, and feeding power to a component... with a return cable attached to the frame. That's it! Yes... I could have done an intro vid, showing a battery, a cable, a switch, a light, and a cable back to the battery. ... but most people simply wouldn't watch it. This was intended to be a legacy video. Nobody is paying me to pass on the knowledge... it's just a duty thing ... somebody should do it... so I thought that I would. For carburettors, I have had to take a different approach. Unlike the simplicity of a cable and a switch (I know... it's complicated... but really it isn't) :) ... the carburettor is truly complicated. So I've started a MAJOR series 'Carburettor Tuning For Performance'. Part 1 - the Challenge... will be made public in a day or two. How many vids will be required is not clear, but just describing the challenge took two weeks of work (to make a 7 minute video). Consider subscribing to be alerted, because I'm going to overturn 100 years of carburettor tuning confusion. This series will definitely be 'legacy quality'. As for the wiring diagram vid above... I winged it :D Yes... no script :) It may never reach the views of some of my other videos... but to me, I know that this is one of my best so far, for actually providing the required information. So it is there, if you wish to study it like a student would. An hours lesson, that requires some homework, with one's own wiring diagram :) Another one that I'm very pleased with is ua-cam.com/video/yc5FhIvGs4o/v-deo.html Compare the engineering technique described, to other vids on UA-cam. ... and it was done live. Again... it will have minimal views, but, the correct technique has been posted... for those in the future who will need this knowledge. You can also check an engine assembly series that I am well into. I'll pick that up shortly, once the carb series is under way. Lots happening. Subscribe, and join in ;) Best of luck!
I thought I'd let you know that after having watched your tutorial a number of times this past week, i followed your advice. Having printed off three hard copies at A3 size i spent a long time just studying the wring diagram for my Honda CM200 twin-star. It all became clear and, after not that many hours work, using a multi-meter and 12volt bulb continuity tester - my project bike is alive once more. I also own a running Honda CM200 twin star as my daily runaround. Living in sunny Greece it over the last 18 years I've put a moonshot mileage on it, but i have learnt more about the electrical system in the last week than all the years I've owned it.Cheers once again. Great help.
Thanks for this mate. I have a 1981 Cx500 refusing to spark and having spoken to the forum guys I know way more about what does what and what to test but this really helps with undertstanding all the flows and grounding. This takes the fear out of it. I've also got a rear right indicator refusing to blink and this is going to be an easy fix, using my own service manual wiring diagram. Thank you so much for an excellent upload. Rich
Thanks for that feedback and the 'like' Richard - it all helps to push the correct info to the people who need it :) Good luck with the troubleshooting.
Nice! From what I have seen, and experienced ... the physical world (Newtonian) is always pretty simple. What is bizarre (suspect), is that 'all this (and more) could have been taught in a manner that would have embedded this simple concept. I am forming the opinion, that the education system is primarily a filter, that convinces the students that they have been 'fairly' filtered out (as dregs) ... without realising that this was the intended outcome :(
You sir are a fine fellow. This is an absolute gem of a video and I thank you for the time and dedication invested in its production. It has been extremely helpful to me. I offer you a great many thanks.
What an excellent, detailed, in-depth, and easy to understand lesson on motorbike wiring diagram. Sir, this was very helpful to me. Having been given a (non-running) Honda CM200 twin-star three years ago i stripped it down to its component parts. Gave it a full restoration - working on my own. Then procrastinated for around a year as its the time to get the wiring back on the bike. I bought a Haynes manual that has the wiring diagram, but it looked daunting. Your description and way you went about describing the electrical systems and how it all works made my Honda's wiring diagram look way easier. Thank you for this.
Great news Andy ... thanks for the feedback ... it makes the effort worthwhile. ... and yes, it is way easier than it first looks. It is pretty much, a wire going from positive, passing through a switch and a consumer, and onward to negative. The variety of stop switches (on some modern bikes) can at first confuse - say, you can't start the bike if the side stand is down, or you haven't pulled the clutch in. If there are a large number of stop switches, they can be routed through a single component. However, once you know that the juice is simply running to earth, that single component can be understood. Good luck with your project :)
Thanks Mr. Papadopolis for your kind words. Here are the latest videos, dealing with preventing scratching (scoring) in two-stroke cylinders, and carburettor tuning: ua-cam.com/video/lRD7_V14lPs/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/GeaEaIdfeco/v-deo.html
I’m enjoyed this thourghly! Thanks so much for sharing your experience, I have much difficulty with wiring, and your helping to make it easier 👏 thank you
Great tutorial. Thanks for taking your time to help us who are afraid of the electrical boogey-man. Trying to solve issue on 1981 Suzuki GS850. I've got something keeping the battery from consistently charging at the appropriate 14.9 volts. ??? I've got the schematic and now I am going into the maze of wire nests. I am also thinking about tearing it all out and reinstall with a MotoGadget M4 kit that gets rid of a lot of the original wiring on these Japanese bikes. ??? I am grabbing a beer and finishing the class time! THANKS AGAIN.
Nice one Dougie... that's exactly how to do it :) There is always a tendency to desire to jump out of the frying pan, while risking a solid landing in the fire. It is clear that there are more complex wiring solutions. I pulled up the wiring diagram that Brian (below) was working on. It employed an unusual stop system, involving potentially numerous items depending upon the model. Eg. sidestand, clutch, and or neutral. ... on top of that, the stop governor had a strange name - 'changing relay' . I thought WTF is a 'changing relay' (oh and BTW why not call it a stop relay' but hey.....) However... once the purpose is understood, it is possible to divine how it works. The key factor being that each stop circuit must be 'made' to allow the bike to start.... ie. the sidestand must be up AND the clutch must be pulled in AND OR the gears must be in neutral. If you have a clutch safety, then there is no need for a neutral safety (we would imagine). From a fault finding perspective... if the bike isn't starting, you might wish to bypass these safety circuits. ... but to do so, you need to be confident with the wiring. ... and your current studies will provide that confidence. What the tutorial shows, is that you can follow individual circuits.... and also shows that you must do this. For your problem - start back from the battery. I've just had a look at a 1980 GS850G We can see a lead to the starter relay - the other lead passes thru the fuse box to the voltage regulator... ... and from there to the generator. This would indicate that there is : A leak to earth Failing generator Failing regulator Bear in mind that the charging voltage will only be achieved at a certain revs, with no lights. With lights, the revs must be higher. So eliminate the lights.... ideally all circuits but ignition. Then meter the volts at slow tickover.... and at higher revs. You should see the volts rise, and stop at the max required charge voltage.... so even if you rev higher... the charge stays the same. If everything works as planned.... then there may be voltage leakage through the wiring to earth (chassis). If not, then it could be the voltage regulator or generator. Good luck :)
hi there! realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly superbe! i bloody learned something today! like you said it, people (me too) at fisrt got scared in fromt of that electrical diagram! NOT ANYMORE! CHEERS MY MATE Farid :-))
Brilliant. When the diagram first came up it looked so complex but by the end I thought "easy!". Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. One question ... is the bike kick start only? Because I can't see how the coil is powered without the generator.
Yes... Okay.... don't panic.... but.... your question is perfect . The question itself reminds you to have courage - to believe your own eyes Engineering fact vs fake news ;) There was no starter motor included in the diagram. Therefore there was no starter motor. Therefore the motor must be turned by other means. My idea was... to give you full knowledge.... not simply to list how the wiring works. You've got to take the knowledge and apply it ;) Anyway... I understand the self-doubts. The more you get comfortable with engineering facts, the more you'll lose those doubts. Thanks for the feedback. It tells me that the effort was not spent in vain. :)
Thanks for those kind words Nos Physique :) Have you considered subscribing? The new YT subscriber rules come into effect this month, and it will hit small help channels like mine badly. I would consider subscribing to any channel that helps you, which has less than 1500 subscribers ;)
Thanks mate, that's very considerate of you. I've subbed you back ;) Consider setting your privacy to show subscribed. People will be more likely to subscribe back to you, if they know that you have subscribed to them ;) YT defaults the setting to 'hide subscriptions', which slows down your channel growth. People won't even know that you have subscribed to them, as they receive no alert. support.google.com/youtube/answer/7280190
Thank you for that. I am fixing my second hand 125 cc and so far all I got left is neutral led to fix. Lamp working just no ground from engine as far is see and from brake does nothing to stop lights but mayby this video would help. The most annoying part is that cable changeing colour where they not supposed to and especially the one I am trying to follow 😑 but not much left to fix... hopefully
Antoni, download the manual and print out a few hard copies of the wiring diagram and legend. With a highlighter, you can isolate the circuit that you are working on, and have the hard copy in your hands, while troubleshooting. Add notes to the diagram ... say, where a cable changes colour etc. Doing this will help embed the information in your mind; ultimately making it 'working knowledge'. The real key, is to fully appreciate the simplicity of the wiring diagram. - A connection is made ... or it isn't - A +ve wire is shorting to ground ... or it isn't - The wire inside a cable is broken ... or it isn't - A component is working ... or it isn't If the first three questions are satisfied, then a component isn't working. The biggest shock for most people, is that it is 'that simple' :D
@@EngineTuning Thank you for broad reply to my post. We finding with my mate and luckly fixing it on its way😊 that there were some cables with moist on them with might be the issue for bikes some strange behaviours. One thing that I do not get and is very weird is that when I am connecting petrol tank back by cables (it is giantco hy 150 based on Honda cg 125 at least by engine). When I do black to black, green to green, brown brown, I have got fuel gauge showing lv as normal but no lights on tank gauge🤔. When I swap green with brown in places I got all till I turn the lights on as then gauge going back to zero but lights on tank stays on. So my question is how is that possible. I love to have lights and gauge reading all the time especially at night. 👀
@@EngineTuningI thing I did it but wil I have got a question regarding right hand side switch. I know every bike is different. My 125 cc have two bulbs in front. If I move it to middle I got brake rear light on highlighted speedometer and front beam light (big bulb) on it's own, in all the way to the left setting rear light stay same, highlighted speedo and only small blue bulb on. I did change switch to new as old one with wiring was 15 years old and had strange connections done by previous owners. So my question is whether is that how this lights should work in those position. I did exactly same way as before wire by wire in 9 pin cube in exactly matching possitons and do not remember how lights were working before. Rest of cables coming of that swith would be for brake Lever but that is working OK as well as kill switch and starter. So there is only two wires to mess with in the connector cube but when I swapped them other way around I only had speedo hilighted in mid switch possition and but then only small bulb blue on and in far left it would turn rear brake light off, speedo highlights off yet turn both front bulbs on. Just wonder with is the way that you can call normal? I quess I am in right connection but asking as ebay sellers did not provide any answers to it what so ever. I did look for wiring diagram especially for giantco x treme but nothing there.
@@AntoniOrszykowski The thing is Antonio ... when you swap wires around, you are simply rolling dice. In my experience; humans always choose the difficult route, when fixing problems. Of course, the human is wanting the quickest route, ... only that the quick route is rarely chosen. We are all guilty! It seems that we are programmed to struggle. To win the game, you must choose the easy route ... the one that quickly leads to both success AND understanding. We can accept short term failure in the game ... but some of us realise "I made the wrong move ". We ask ourselves (in disbelief), why, WHY, FFS why didn't I do it correctly at the beginning???????? Why have I wasted all this time (and sometimes money)??????? ... when I could have simply done the job correctly..... The correct way, is to locate a piece of paper, a pen or pencil. Write the title of the circuit. Draw the lamp with +ve & -ve ... obviously draw a line from earth (chassis) to -ve. Draw a line from +ve to switch OUT. Draw a line from switch IN to the power source. (this is a +ve switched circuit) (note: switch IN and switch OUT is nonsense ... the switch simply connects two cables or disconnects two cables) Apart from looking for paper & pencil ... that took you no more than 5 minutes (possibly 2 minutes). Okay; but maybe it is a -ve switch circuit! Hahaha ... easy! Draw a line from the power supply to the lamp +ve. Draw a line from the -ve to the switch IN. Draw a line from the switch OUT to the earth. For both diagrams, note the colour of the cable that you are using. It doesn't matter which system that you choose ... both will work fine. The point is ... that you have now drawn the wiring diagram for the circuit, and it took you only a few minutes. You also will have that wiring diagram for ever! Sure, you need to examine the switch, to see how the single power IN is distributed (maybe one IN & two OUT etc.) ... and then draw that into your diagram ... but again, we are talking about a few minutes of work ;) Yes ... it is that quick & easy. Every time that you have a problem ... TAKE THE EASY ROUTE AND MOVE FORWARD QUICKLY !!!!
Thanks Brian for that. I know of people complaining that it was a 50min video. My response has always been... yes, I spent 50 minutes explaining this (from hours of video work). ... you lucky bastards :D
Thumbs up! question: I installed a LED kit on my bike but I only want it to receive power when the ignition is on. Now it's directly connected to the battery. How can I use such a diagram to find the connector on the ignition relay or perhaps a connection to a headlight wire? Preferably without cutting factory wires as they do in most UA-cam videos.
Okay... it's a good question. But really the answer is in the video. It's a confidence thing, where you flip from seeing wiring as a mystery... to seeing cables running from power sources, through switches, to a lamp.... In the dash area, a power cable will be visible going to the switch. Place a meter between each cable connector and the chassis. A 12v bulb soldered to two wires will do. When the bulb lights or the meter jumps That's it... you've found your power, where you want it.
Awesome video. I have a general question - if something like a light bulb grounds out via its socket, which is connected to the frame, why do we need so many wires carrying all this ground throughout the bike? Isn't it enough to just ground out at the socket? Sorry if this question doesn't make any sense.
Great question James :) The short answer is that we don't need feed and return wires everywhere, and often, there will only be a feed wire, with the return passing through the socket, which is connected to a bracket, which is connected to the frame. You can see this with modern chromed plastic fittings, where a short wire is connected to the screw that holds the plastic to the frame. From this, you can understand that a cable can be better for the task, due to the chassis being enamel painted. Also you might want a switched negative, so again, a cable is required.
Good question. I can't provide you with any direction there. Motorcycle wiring is the product of electricity fundamentals, and with the onset of digital switching, it is now a mixed bag. By this I mean that, you might wish to understand a voltage regulator ... but this isn't 'motorcycle wiring', it is fundamental electronics - capping off a voltage, and getting rid of the excess in heat. Similarly, voltage drop (say dim lights) is a function of connections, and the cross section area of a cable - electrical physics. Rather, I would suggest that you spend time reflecting upon the simplicity of the given electricity, passing from the source, through the 'load' (the component using the electricity), through a switch, and returning to the source. By doing this, your own brain, and eyes, will inform you of the problem areas where connections occur - wiring joints, switch contacts, corrosion etc. This will lead to you making better joints, and might cause you to acquire products that clean corrosion and seal out oxygen, and water. You will also naturally encounter components, causing you to reflect on their operation, perhaps requiring you to search for specific answers to questions that you previously never thought of asking. In this way, you will grow your knowledge of the fundamentals that are specific to your needs - meaning that you will sponge up the knowledge - it will become working knowledge, rather than learned knowledge. Before long, you will understand high tension voltage overheads, and why the tickover drops when you switch a headlight on. It won't be just because you switched the headlight on, it will be because you will understand that the voltage overhead has gone, and the spark power has diminished. Stuff like that..... You'll discover that you will never know it all. ... but you will also discover that when you encounter a question, the answer will be readily available to you, because you will have learned how, and where, to find the answer. There isn't a single book that can deliver that. The knowledge is available on the web, and your enquiring mind delivers it ;)
Thanks for those kind words :) Yes, it's a diode. I called it a one way valve, because it is understood by everybody. If you call it a diode... nobody understands what that means.(and why should they?) Yes it is likely separate to the rectifier... but obviously the design engineer can design the system how he wants.
Hey i was wondering if you could help me i see you have a minarelli am6 based bike aswell and i have put one in my pitbike i have every origeonal part from my old bike like cdi , ignition coil , and such but i was wondering how to achive spark in the most basic way possible no key no nothing i dont mind cutting the wireing harness as i have an extra
Hello sir I'm back and have a question about the rectifier part. I have my headlight and rear daytime light on a separate circuit (switch) so would I still a one way valve? Or do I just need it for the rectifier and battery part. Hope I explained it correctly and thanks in advance.
The one way valve allows the generator to push power into the battery, without the battery draining when the motor is not turning. This means that the battery remains charged.
Wow! Amazing! A South African bike. Or is it just a re-badged Chinese bike? Obviously, I'm in no position to help, but an interesting contribution nonetheless :) 🛵
Follow the indicator circuit. Examine the voltage along the circuit. If both indicators stopped working at the same time ... sure, there is a strong likelihood that it is the blinker unit. they are usually cheap enough, but you can confirm its failure, through simple testing ... for which, you will need the wiring diagram :)
Would anybody how me wire a mt 125 2020 speedometer to a 2017 mt 125 im am no good with wiring but would appreciate it and willing to pay for your help
Glad that it helped Joey :) Re water cooling. Generally it is all mechanical.- driven by a belt or a gear, directly from the engine. Control of the circulation is down to a bi-metallic valve that opens and closes at preset temperatures. The only electrics in such a setup, is a feedback sensor to indicate overheating. For some engines, an electric water pump can be fitted, presumably functioning via a temperature activated switch. Is this how it is on the Honda?
The 2 speeds will be for efficiency. In winter it may only need the low speed to cool the coolant. In summer, it might need to switch to a higher speed. I don't know how it is controlled. It may have one temp sensor, and a monitoring chip. Approaching max temp, the fan will start on low. If the temp hits max, the monitor will switch the fan to high. Another way, would be to have two sensors, preset to a switch at a lower and higher temp. If the sensor is providing live temp feedback to a gauge, it is likely it will be monitoring voltage change. It could be a single wire, with the circuit completed through the earthed sensor. If not, then 2 wires will be used. You need to study the wiring diagram.
Sometimes, components are grounded directly to the chassis via the attaching bolt. With the battery disconnected, use a multimeter continuity tester (beeps when the two probes touch). Probing between chassis mounts and terminals is quick and easy. I have seen components that ground via the bolt AND via an earth cable.
Top bloke missed one of your shot peened selector drums on eBay not so long ago. Recognised the work instantly. Just didn't have the funds. Any other special bits of am6 for sale?
Annoyingly, That work has had to be put to one side, in order to fight the usual health battle. However, with a good engineering attitude, and some (a lot of) research effort to uncover what we should anyway be told; it would seem that a win is the most likely option. Anyway, I will be publishing shortly ... it will be valid information for most people (everybody) ;)
I have the same search engines as you so, if you can't find it, neither can I. Try a forum that specialises in these bikes. They'll definitely help you ;)
It depends on the bike as to where it is and whether it has a heat sink. It is often hidden under the tank, attached to a frame lug. It could be part of a regulator/rectifier enclosure (where the heat is given off). It could be just a slab of aluminium, without fins ie. it might not look like a traditional finned heat sink (as seen within consumer electronics), because there is lots of moving air when riding a bike. The big finned heat sinks in computers and such kit, is due to the systems being fully enclosed, and typically surrounded by other heat generating components.
This was edited and filmed using snagit. The images of both the Legend & Diagram were loaded (for switching in and out of view). The screen record area was set. Wiring sections were then highlighted whist the recording was being made. I paused the recording between sections, but otherwise, the entire video was played off the bat :)
Sorry... No I don't! What I did, was to grab the wiring diagram, and legend (important), from a web published manual. Then... using 'snagit' editor, applied a highlighter. For hard copies... print off a number of copies and work through them with a highlighter pen. To create new wiring diagrams consider 'snagit' or a vector program such as 'Inkscape'. Best wishes for whatever it is you are doing :)
By far the best way, is to study the video with a wiring diagram of your own bike, or a bike. Make multiple copies, and work through your diagram, until you have learned it. That way, the copy of the video is in your head, where it can easily be accessed ;)
I'm trying to figure out my first diagram and it is hard. One question I have is about a long thin rectangle listed as "ECU". Coming out from the long sides of this rectangle are a number of short straight lines, which I guess are wires. These go into some very small long thin rectangles with a solid line down the longitudinal axis (so, in effect, two long thin rectangles joined on their long sides to form a single rectangle). These small rectangles have varying numbers of those short wires going into them from the main ECU rectangle. Sometimes, one per rectangle, and in other cases up to four. How do I interpret all of that? Could I email you a copy of the diagram?
Robert, these diagrams that you describe, provide an overview. There will be separate diagrams dealing with component connections and their purposes. Somehow, you need to get your hands on the set, if you want to understand everything. They will be available on the service centre network. A friendly mechanic might print them off for you. That said, there is little that you can do without the scan kit that connects to the reader port. The ECU is the computer that controls everything - Electronic or Engine Control Unit. You don't rewire it, you reprogram it. ... or simply scan the system to discover any faults. These vehicles are going to become increasingly difficult to repair, as the components will periodically, no longer be available new.
Why not make a simple video using a screen recorder program like snagit or any such app? That way, you could zoom in and out of the diagrams, and describe what you are looking for. It would also mean that you would be sharing the problem with many more people. :)
@@EngineTuning I got the Haynes manual and the diagram in it is *much* easier to read. But still there is the matter of the ECU. I spoke with a couple of people who helped me understand that you can't trace current flow through an ECU. All you can test is for voltage on the wiring coming out of it and going to the load.
Great to hear that you are making progress. Other than using an ECU scanner; understanding load circuit is probably as good as it gets. The ECU is a bit like having a large rucksack ... you can just fill it with loads of stuff. If something goes wrong, it is often quicker to produce a workaround, rather than spend a month studying the ECU. I recently needed to get my windscreen washer working for a control test. The rear washer worked, but not the front. I'd renewed the pump, but it was the control circuitry. Was it the clock spring? The diagrams were not clear. ... so I simply bridged the two output tubes (front and rear). If the water jet had been weak I would have ultimately fitted a solenoid valve, but it worked (works) fine. Sometimes, the path of least resistance is the best route to take :)
13:20 I think you may be mistaken about a ground being missing from the drawing..
I think the dash lamp gets it's ground from whichever side is not flashing.
So for example - to turn left, power goes to 11 and 28 the indicator lamps and also to 20, the dash lamp. It then gets it's ground for 20 by the other wire out of it, through the right turn indicator lamps 13 and 25 and onto their ground.
And vice versa, right turn illuminates 13 and 25, and the dash lamp grounds through 11 and 28.
The dash lamp is in series with the lamps from the side that is not flashing, and because it is of much higher resistance (Ohms Law) than them, most of the voltage drops across it. Some voltage drops across the indicator lamps, but not enough to illuminate them so they can act as part of the ground circuit.
I'm not sure either about your explanation for the diode (one-way valve).
It seems to me that the diode just blocks the battery from powering up all those circuits highlighted at 47:30, if the bike is not running or if the generator is not giving out power.
In normal operation, maybe the generator is primarily powering up all those circuits, with any excess it generates going towards charging the battery ?
I don't know anything about these particular bikes, and it's hard to see the drawing clearly, so just a suggestion.
Appreciate you making this video though, and thanks. Thumbs up.
Nice theory, and well explained.
I'm very short of time at the mo.
I'll report back when I have had chance to re-examine the system.
Thanks for raising this :)
I've just had another look at the indicator circuits.
I think that you are right.
The connection is made after the switch, so yes... the earth is being made through the other filament, on to earth.
Nicely spotted.
We never stop learning :)
RE the one way valve (diode).
It definitely allows the bike to be fitted with lamps that are always on, but only when the engine is running.
This may be its only purpose.
Nice comments Patrick :)
My pleasure. We are, or should be, here to help each other.
I have subscribed and look forward to your projects.
P.
Nice video .. came here because I have both sides on bike blinking when only right should ...I guess it have to do with the common earth/ground...
Wish I could learn more about ac/dc ... don't understand how they can have common ground
OMG.... this is a 50 minute video providing a comprehensive understanding of motorbike wiring.
It can certainly save you days, or weeks of struggles with electrical fault finding.
Yet....
After 11 views I note one person has given it a 'thumbs down'.
EDIT... 4 thumbs down now... and yet no comments explaining what the problem was.
(though plenty of thumbs up as recompense for the time it took to share the knowledge)
You wonder what motivates people to attempt to stop the spread of knowledge.
I am not very bright, and have the same problem with instructors and books, you cant teach with out a foundation, you are a brilliant man, I wish I had your talent. Perfect video for some one who already understands, but for us lay people, we need to know first where the electric starts, like the stator, if it go's to the regulator or what, coils ,points, ect.any more boxes. With out this basic knowledge, it don't make cents. Wish I could get a book or video that would start for the beginning, not the middle like 99% of books and videos. Thank you, hope to make a wise man wiser. Knowing is one thing teaching is another.
Yes... selecting a starting level has always been a major difficulty.
It demands an entire series... but that just wasn't on the cards.
The thing is... this is specifically a 'wiring video'.
All those other things that you mention... they could each demand their own video.
I made a decision to cover every element of the diagram... 50 minutes!
You can imagine how long it took to make.
The objective was to show all the fundamentals, so that a technically minded person can add 'wiring diagrams' to their knowledge base... and if they need a reminder, it's here.
... you'd be surprised how many technically minded people have never got to grips with wiring.
So these were the two objectives:
A complete tutorial of a typical wiring diagram
... as a resource for the technically minded person.
However... I do believe that if you studied the video, and concentrated on just a few elements... I believe that you would gain a full understanding
... because, in fact, the wiring is remarkably simple.
It all resolves down to a cable, passing through a switch, and feeding power to a component... with a return cable attached to the frame.
That's it!
Yes... I could have done an intro vid, showing a battery, a cable, a switch, a light, and a cable back to the battery.
... but most people simply wouldn't watch it.
This was intended to be a legacy video.
Nobody is paying me to pass on the knowledge... it's just a duty thing
... somebody should do it... so I thought that I would.
For carburettors, I have had to take a different approach.
Unlike the simplicity of a cable and a switch (I know... it's complicated... but really it isn't) :)
... the carburettor is truly complicated.
So I've started a MAJOR series 'Carburettor Tuning For Performance'.
Part 1 - the Challenge... will be made public in a day or two.
How many vids will be required is not clear, but just describing the challenge took two weeks of work (to make a 7 minute video).
Consider subscribing to be alerted, because I'm going to overturn 100 years of carburettor tuning confusion.
This series will definitely be 'legacy quality'.
As for the wiring diagram vid above... I winged it :D
Yes... no script :)
It may never reach the views of some of my other videos... but to me, I know that this is one of my best so far, for actually providing the required information.
So it is there, if you wish to study it like a student would.
An hours lesson, that requires some homework, with one's own wiring diagram :)
Another one that I'm very pleased with is ua-cam.com/video/yc5FhIvGs4o/v-deo.html
Compare the engineering technique described, to other vids on UA-cam.
... and it was done live.
Again... it will have minimal views, but, the correct technique has been posted... for those in the future who will need this knowledge.
You can also check an engine assembly series that I am well into.
I'll pick that up shortly, once the carb series is under way.
Lots happening.
Subscribe, and join in ;)
Best of luck!
I thought I'd let you know that after having watched your tutorial a number of times this past week, i followed your advice. Having printed off three hard copies at A3 size i spent a long time just studying the wring diagram for my Honda CM200 twin-star. It all became clear and, after not that many hours work, using a multi-meter and 12volt bulb continuity tester - my project bike is alive once more. I also own a running Honda CM200 twin star as my daily runaround. Living in sunny Greece it over the last 18 years I've put a moonshot mileage on it, but i have learnt more about the electrical system in the last week than all the years I've owned it.Cheers once again. Great help.
Great news Andy ... yes, I know what you mean ... that moment of clarity :)
Thanks for this mate. I have a 1981 Cx500 refusing to spark and having spoken to the forum guys I know way more about what does what and what to test but this really helps with undertstanding all the flows and grounding. This takes the fear out of it. I've also got a rear right indicator refusing to blink and this is going to be an easy fix, using my own service manual wiring diagram. Thank you so much for an excellent upload. Rich
Thanks for that feedback and the 'like' Richard - it all helps to push the correct info to the people who need it :)
Good luck with the troubleshooting.
Tyvm made this all comprehensive for me. You have no idea the headache you just relieved 😌
Nice!
From what I have seen, and experienced ... the physical world (Newtonian) is always pretty simple.
What is bizarre (suspect), is that 'all this (and more) could have been taught in a manner that would have embedded this simple concept.
I am forming the opinion, that the education system is primarily a filter, that convinces the students that they have been 'fairly' filtered out (as dregs)
... without realising that this was the intended outcome :(
Thank you very much. The wiring has baffled me for ages and I didnt know where to start. This helped loads
Good words ... thanks for sharing :)
You sir are a fine fellow. This is an absolute gem of a video and I thank you for the time and dedication invested in its production. It has been extremely helpful to me. I offer you a great many thanks.
What an excellent, detailed, in-depth, and easy to understand lesson on motorbike wiring diagram. Sir, this was very helpful to me. Having been given a (non-running) Honda CM200 twin-star three years ago i stripped it down to its component parts. Gave it a full restoration - working on my own. Then procrastinated for around a year as its the time to get the wiring back on the bike. I bought a Haynes manual that has the wiring diagram, but it looked daunting. Your description and way you went about describing the electrical systems and how it all works made my Honda's wiring diagram look way easier. Thank you for this.
Great news Andy ... thanks for the feedback ... it makes the effort worthwhile.
... and yes, it is way easier than it first looks.
It is pretty much, a wire going from positive, passing through a switch and a consumer, and onward to negative.
The variety of stop switches (on some modern bikes) can at first confuse - say, you can't start the bike if the side stand is down, or you haven't pulled the clutch in.
If there are a large number of stop switches, they can be routed through a single component.
However, once you know that the juice is simply running to earth, that single component can be understood.
Good luck with your project :)
I cannot express my gratitude for this tutorial. You are the man!
Really pleased to have helped.
Thanks Greg, for taking the time to provide the feedback :)
That was a great lesson and thanks for explaining it so clearly great job man!!!
Thanks Scott.
Always nice to receive positive feedback... especially on this one ;)
Thank you for such a brilliant tutorial, made it easy for a guy like me that thinks electronics is shockingly terrifying. More videos please
Thanks Mr. Papadopolis for your kind words.
Here are the latest videos, dealing with preventing scratching (scoring) in two-stroke cylinders, and carburettor tuning:
ua-cam.com/video/lRD7_V14lPs/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/GeaEaIdfeco/v-deo.html
Thanks for this, with this guide you have introduced much needed clarity into a complex subject. Cheers!
Thanks Yamasaki for those kind words :)
I’m enjoyed this thourghly! Thanks so much for sharing your experience, I have much difficulty with wiring, and your helping to make it easier 👏 thank you
Thanks Dean ... glad to have helped :)
Cheers mate,thoroughly entertaining and very helpful.Thanks for taking your time to put this together..
Yes, it was a mammoth project... so it's always nice to see it appreciated.
Thanks Eamonn.
Great tutorial. Thanks for taking your time to help us who are afraid of the electrical boogey-man. Trying to solve issue on 1981 Suzuki GS850. I've got something keeping the battery from consistently charging at the appropriate 14.9 volts. ???
I've got the schematic and now I am going into the maze of wire nests. I am also thinking about tearing it all out and reinstall with a MotoGadget M4 kit that gets rid of a lot of the original wiring on these Japanese bikes. ???
I am grabbing a beer and finishing the class time! THANKS AGAIN.
Nice one Dougie... that's exactly how to do it :)
There is always a tendency to desire to jump out of the frying pan, while risking a solid landing in the fire.
It is clear that there are more complex wiring solutions.
I pulled up the wiring diagram that Brian (below) was working on.
It employed an unusual stop system, involving potentially numerous items depending upon the model.
Eg. sidestand, clutch, and or neutral.
... on top of that, the stop governor had a strange name - 'changing relay' .
I thought WTF is a 'changing relay' (oh and BTW why not call it a stop relay' but hey.....)
However... once the purpose is understood, it is possible to divine how it works.
The key factor being that each stop circuit must be 'made' to allow the bike to start.... ie. the sidestand must be up AND the clutch must be pulled in AND OR the gears must be in neutral.
If you have a clutch safety, then there is no need for a neutral safety (we would imagine).
From a fault finding perspective... if the bike isn't starting, you might wish to bypass these safety circuits.
... but to do so, you need to be confident with the wiring.
... and your current studies will provide that confidence.
What the tutorial shows, is that you can follow individual circuits.... and also shows that you must do this.
For your problem - start back from the battery.
I've just had a look at a 1980 GS850G
We can see a lead to the starter relay - the other lead passes thru the fuse box to the voltage regulator...
... and from there to the generator.
This would indicate that there is :
A leak to earth
Failing generator
Failing regulator
Bear in mind that the charging voltage will only be achieved at a certain revs, with no lights.
With lights, the revs must be higher.
So eliminate the lights.... ideally all circuits but ignition.
Then meter the volts at slow tickover.... and at higher revs.
You should see the volts rise, and stop at the max required charge voltage.... so even if you rev higher... the charge stays the same.
If everything works as planned.... then there may be voltage leakage through the wiring to earth (chassis).
If not, then it could be the voltage regulator or generator.
Good luck :)
My head is spinning...but onward I will go with beer in hand.
Excellent tutorial on reading wiring diagrams. Thanks.
Thanks for the support jax4n6 :)
hi there!
realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly superbe!
i bloody learned something today!
like you said it, people (me too) at fisrt got scared in fromt of that electrical diagram!
NOT ANYMORE!
CHEERS MY MATE
Farid
:-))
This was an outstanding video. Thanks so much for sharing! Cheers!
Thanks Chris... kind words indeed :)
Brilliant. When the diagram first came up it looked so complex but by the end I thought "easy!". Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. One question ... is the bike kick start only? Because I can't see how the coil is powered without the generator.
Yes...
Okay.... don't panic.... but.... your question is perfect .
The question itself reminds you to have courage - to believe your own eyes
Engineering fact vs fake news ;)
There was no starter motor included in the diagram.
Therefore there was no starter motor.
Therefore the motor must be turned by other means.
My idea was... to give you full knowledge.... not simply to list how the wiring works.
You've got to take the knowledge and apply it ;)
Anyway... I understand the self-doubts.
The more you get comfortable with engineering facts, the more you'll lose those doubts.
Thanks for the feedback.
It tells me that the effort was not spent in vain.
:)
A very big help to me. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks Mike ... and I got to listen to a bit of Cello :)
Wow you saved me a ton of headaches so Def deserve more than a thumbs up. Super 'Like' thank you for your knowledge sir!
Thanks for those kind words Nos Physique :)
Have you considered subscribing?
The new YT subscriber rules come into effect this month, and it will hit small help channels like mine badly.
I would consider subscribing to any channel that helps you, which has less than 1500 subscribers ;)
+Engine Tuning Def subbed and hope you get all the subscribers needed cause you sure deserve it
Thanks mate, that's very considerate of you.
I've subbed you back ;)
Consider setting your privacy to show subscribed.
People will be more likely to subscribe back to you, if they know that you have subscribed to them ;)
YT defaults the setting to 'hide subscriptions', which slows down your channel growth.
People won't even know that you have subscribed to them, as they receive no alert.
support.google.com/youtube/answer/7280190
thanks very much ,that was very helpful
Good teachings sir please upload more, thank you sir
Thank you for that. I am fixing my second hand 125 cc and so far all I got left is neutral led to fix. Lamp working just no ground from engine as far is see and from brake does nothing to stop lights but mayby this video would help. The most annoying part is that cable changeing colour where they not supposed to and especially the one I am trying to follow 😑 but not much left to fix... hopefully
Antoni, download the manual and print out a few hard copies of the wiring diagram and legend.
With a highlighter, you can isolate the circuit that you are working on, and have the hard copy in your hands, while troubleshooting.
Add notes to the diagram ... say, where a cable changes colour etc.
Doing this will help embed the information in your mind; ultimately making it 'working knowledge'.
The real key, is to fully appreciate the simplicity of the wiring diagram.
- A connection is made ... or it isn't
- A +ve wire is shorting to ground ... or it isn't
- The wire inside a cable is broken ... or it isn't
- A component is working ... or it isn't
If the first three questions are satisfied, then a component isn't working.
The biggest shock for most people, is that it is 'that simple' :D
@@EngineTuning Thank you for broad reply to my post. We finding with my mate and luckly fixing it on its way😊 that there were some cables with moist on them with might be the issue for bikes some strange behaviours. One thing that I do not get and is very weird is that when I am connecting petrol tank back by cables (it is giantco hy 150 based on Honda cg 125 at least by engine). When I do black to black, green to green, brown brown, I have got fuel gauge showing lv as normal but no lights on tank gauge🤔. When I swap green with brown in places I got all till I turn the lights on as then gauge going back to zero but lights on tank stays on. So my question is how is that possible. I love to have lights and gauge reading all the time especially at night. 👀
@@AntoniOrszykowski Hahaha! ... This is why you need a wiring diagram :D
@@EngineTuningI thing I did it but wil I have got a question regarding right hand side switch. I know every bike is different. My 125 cc have two bulbs in front. If I move it to middle I got brake rear light on highlighted speedometer and front beam light (big bulb) on it's own, in all the way to the left setting rear light stay same, highlighted speedo and only small blue bulb on. I did change switch to new as old one with wiring was 15 years old and had strange connections done by previous owners. So my question is whether is that how this lights should work in those position. I did exactly same way as before wire by wire in 9 pin cube in exactly matching possitons and do not remember how lights were working before. Rest of cables coming of that swith would be for brake Lever but that is working OK as well as kill switch and starter. So there is only two wires to mess with in the connector cube but when I swapped them other way around I only had speedo hilighted in mid switch possition and but then only small bulb blue on and in far left it would turn rear brake light off, speedo highlights off yet turn both front bulbs on. Just wonder with is the way that you can call normal? I quess I am in right connection but asking as ebay sellers did not provide any answers to it what so ever. I did look for wiring diagram especially for giantco x treme but nothing there.
@@AntoniOrszykowski The thing is Antonio ... when you swap wires around, you are simply rolling dice.
In my experience; humans always choose the difficult route, when fixing problems.
Of course, the human is wanting the quickest route, ... only that the quick route is rarely chosen.
We are all guilty!
It seems that we are programmed to struggle.
To win the game, you must choose the easy route ... the one that quickly leads to both success AND understanding.
We can accept short term failure in the game ... but some of us realise "I made the wrong move ".
We ask ourselves (in disbelief), why, WHY, FFS why didn't I do it correctly at the beginning????????
Why have I wasted all this time (and sometimes money)???????
... when I could have simply done the job correctly.....
The correct way, is to locate a piece of paper, a pen or pencil.
Write the title of the circuit.
Draw the lamp with +ve & -ve ... obviously draw a line from earth (chassis) to -ve.
Draw a line from +ve to switch OUT.
Draw a line from switch IN to the power source.
(this is a +ve switched circuit)
(note: switch IN and switch OUT is nonsense ... the switch simply connects two cables or disconnects two cables)
Apart from looking for paper & pencil ... that took you no more than 5 minutes (possibly 2 minutes).
Okay; but maybe it is a -ve switch circuit!
Hahaha ... easy!
Draw a line from the power supply to the lamp +ve.
Draw a line from the -ve to the switch IN.
Draw a line from the switch OUT to the earth.
For both diagrams, note the colour of the cable that you are using.
It doesn't matter which system that you choose ... both will work fine.
The point is ... that you have now drawn the wiring diagram for the circuit, and it took you only a few minutes.
You also will have that wiring diagram for ever!
Sure, you need to examine the switch, to see how the single power IN is distributed (maybe one IN & two OUT etc.)
... and then draw that into your diagram ... but again, we are talking about a few minutes of work ;)
Yes ... it is that quick & easy.
Every time that you have a problem ... TAKE THE EASY ROUTE AND MOVE FORWARD QUICKLY !!!!
Haha I love this informational video
Thanks Brian for that.
I know of people complaining that it was a 50min video.
My response has always been... yes, I spent 50 minutes explaining this (from hours of video work).
... you lucky bastards :D
Thumbs up! question: I installed a LED kit on my bike but I only want it to receive power when the ignition is on. Now it's directly connected to the battery. How can I use such a diagram to find the connector on the ignition relay or perhaps a connection to a headlight wire? Preferably without cutting factory wires as they do in most UA-cam videos.
Okay... it's a good question.
But really the answer is in the video.
It's a confidence thing, where you flip from seeing wiring as a mystery... to seeing cables running from power sources, through switches, to a lamp....
In the dash area, a power cable will be visible going to the switch.
Place a meter between each cable connector and the chassis.
A 12v bulb soldered to two wires will do.
When the bulb lights or the meter jumps
That's it... you've found your power, where you want it.
Thank you soooooo much (edit still here dude)
Awesome video. I have a general question - if something like a light bulb grounds out via its socket, which is connected to the frame, why do we need so many wires carrying all this ground throughout the bike? Isn't it enough to just ground out at the socket? Sorry if this question doesn't make any sense.
Great question James :)
The short answer is that we don't need feed and return wires everywhere, and often, there will only be a feed wire, with the return passing through the socket, which is connected to a bracket, which is connected to the frame.
You can see this with modern chromed plastic fittings, where a short wire is connected to the screw that holds the plastic to the frame.
From this, you can understand that a cable can be better for the task, due to the chassis being enamel painted.
Also you might want a switched negative, so again, a cable is required.
Great video
Do you know where could I get software wiring diagrams for motorcycles? thanks
Great! I have a bike that wont turn off when the key is out, I need to use the kill switch. I assume @37minutes is where I need to start looking?
The chapters are listed under 'show more'.
Engine stop is listed at 34:00
Good Luck ... let us know how you got on :)
Love the explanations in your video. Any good books that you might recommend to continue furthering one's understanding of motorcycle wiring diagrams.
Good question.
I can't provide you with any direction there.
Motorcycle wiring is the product of electricity fundamentals, and with the onset of digital switching, it is now a mixed bag.
By this I mean that, you might wish to understand a voltage regulator ... but this isn't 'motorcycle wiring', it is fundamental electronics - capping off a voltage, and getting rid of the excess in heat.
Similarly, voltage drop (say dim lights) is a function of connections, and the cross section area of a cable - electrical physics.
Rather, I would suggest that you spend time reflecting upon the simplicity of the given electricity, passing from the source, through the 'load' (the component using the electricity), through a switch, and returning to the source.
By doing this, your own brain, and eyes, will inform you of the problem areas where connections occur - wiring joints, switch contacts, corrosion etc.
This will lead to you making better joints, and might cause you to acquire products that clean corrosion and seal out oxygen, and water.
You will also naturally encounter components, causing you to reflect on their operation, perhaps requiring you to search for specific answers to questions that you previously never thought of asking.
In this way, you will grow your knowledge of the fundamentals that are specific to your needs - meaning that you will sponge up the knowledge - it will become working knowledge, rather than learned knowledge.
Before long, you will understand high tension voltage overheads, and why the tickover drops when you switch a headlight on.
It won't be just because you switched the headlight on, it will be because you will understand that the voltage overhead has gone, and the spark power has diminished.
Stuff like that.....
You'll discover that you will never know it all.
... but you will also discover that when you encounter a question, the answer will be readily available to you, because you will have learned how, and where, to find the answer.
There isn't a single book that can deliver that.
The knowledge is available on the web, and your enquiring mind delivers it ;)
Engine Tuning .... boomer talk
good thank you
excellent tutorial the one way valve in the charging circuit is a diode yes? not necessarily part of the rectifier/regulator.
Thanks for those kind words :)
Yes, it's a diode.
I called it a one way valve, because it is understood by everybody.
If you call it a diode... nobody understands what that means.(and why should they?)
Yes it is likely separate to the rectifier... but obviously the design engineer can design the system how he wants.
Hey i was wondering if you could help me i see you have a minarelli am6 based bike aswell and i have put one in my pitbike i have every origeonal part from my old bike like cdi , ignition coil , and such but i was wondering how to achive spark in the most basic way possible no key no nothing i dont mind cutting the wireing harness as i have an extra
Hello sir I'm back and have a question about the rectifier part. I have my headlight and rear daytime light on a separate circuit (switch) so would I still a one way valve? Or do I just need it for the rectifier and battery part. Hope I explained it correctly and thanks in advance.
The one way valve allows the generator to push power into the battery, without the battery draining when the motor is not turning.
This means that the battery remains charged.
Hello sir, I'm working on a puzey stx200 but having a tough time with wiring plz help?
Wow! Amazing!
A South African bike.
Or is it just a re-badged Chinese bike?
Obviously, I'm in no position to help, but an interesting contribution nonetheless :)
🛵
@@EngineTuning yes I think it's probably a Chinese bike, building one
thanks!
My indicators have decided to stop working (ybr 125) no lights on the dash, I think it's the indicator relay. But I have no idea.
Follow the indicator circuit.
Examine the voltage along the circuit.
If both indicators stopped working at the same time ... sure, there is a strong likelihood that it is the blinker unit.
they are usually cheap enough, but you can confirm its failure, through simple testing
... for which, you will need the wiring diagram :)
Would anybody how me wire a mt 125 2020 speedometer to a 2017 mt 125 im am no good with wiring but would appreciate it and willing to pay for your help
Great video helps me a lot to repair my scooter thx mate ❤️ , what about the wiring diagram of water cooling system for Honda freeway 250cc !
Glad that it helped Joey :)
Re water cooling.
Generally it is all mechanical.- driven by a belt or a gear, directly from the engine.
Control of the circulation is down to a bi-metallic valve that opens and closes at preset temperatures.
The only electrics in such a setup, is a feedback sensor to indicate overheating.
For some engines, an electric water pump can be fitted, presumably functioning via a temperature activated switch.
Is this how it is on the Honda?
I think its a manual cooling pump but in the electric side she have fan with 2 speed variation depend on the temp level
The 2 speeds will be for efficiency.
In winter it may only need the low speed to cool the coolant.
In summer, it might need to switch to a higher speed.
I don't know how it is controlled.
It may have one temp sensor, and a monitoring chip.
Approaching max temp, the fan will start on low.
If the temp hits max, the monitor will switch the fan to high.
Another way, would be to have two sensors, preset to a switch at a lower and higher temp.
If the sensor is providing live temp feedback to a gauge, it is likely it will be monitoring voltage change.
It could be a single wire, with the circuit completed through the earthed sensor.
If not, then 2 wires will be used.
You need to study the wiring diagram.
What is the earth ground *inside* the voltage regulator box?
Sometimes, components are grounded directly to the chassis via the attaching bolt.
With the battery disconnected, use a multimeter continuity tester (beeps when the two probes touch).
Probing between chassis mounts and terminals is quick and easy.
I have seen components that ground via the bolt AND via an earth cable.
@@EngineTuning Okay, thanks for responding.
Top bloke missed one of your shot peened selector drums on eBay not so long ago. Recognised the work instantly. Just didn't have the funds. Any other special bits of am6 for sale?
Annoyingly, That work has had to be put to one side, in order to fight the usual health battle.
However, with a good engineering attitude, and some (a lot of) research effort to uncover what we should anyway be told; it would seem that a win is the most likely option.
Anyway, I will be publishing shortly ... it will be valid information for most people (everybody) ;)
@@EngineTuning Whatever it is that ails you. I wish you a speedy recovery. Get well soon and thanks for everything you have shared on the subject.
Yamaha mt-15 wiring diagram video link 🔗 please 🙏 🙏 🙏 help
I have the same search engines as you so, if you can't find it, neither can I.
Try a forum that specialises in these bikes.
They'll definitely help you ;)
Sir, from the item #4, where and how is the aluminum fin that absorb the extra heat wired up? Thank you
It depends on the bike as to where it is and whether it has a heat sink.
It is often hidden under the tank, attached to a frame lug.
It could be part of a regulator/rectifier enclosure (where the heat is given off).
It could be just a slab of aluminium, without fins ie. it might not look like a traditional finned heat sink (as seen within consumer electronics), because there is lots of moving air when riding a bike.
The big finned heat sinks in computers and such kit, is due to the systems being fully enclosed, and typically surrounded by other heat generating components.
I’m very interested in the software you use for this! Would you mind letting us know?
This was edited and filmed using snagit.
The images of both the Legend & Diagram were loaded (for switching in and out of view).
The screen record area was set.
Wiring sections were then highlighted whist the recording was being made.
I paused the recording between sections, but otherwise, the entire video was played off the bat :)
Do you know of a motorcycle wiring diagram software?
Sorry... No I don't!
What I did, was to grab the wiring diagram, and legend (important), from a web published manual.
Then... using 'snagit' editor, applied a highlighter.
For hard copies... print off a number of copies and work through them with a highlighter pen.
To create new wiring diagrams consider 'snagit' or a vector program such as 'Inkscape'.
Best wishes for whatever it is you are doing :)
Hi there and Namaste! how do i copy your video for pvt use? thanks for your help.
By far the best way, is to study the video with a wiring diagram of your own bike, or a bike.
Make multiple copies, and work through your diagram, until you have learned it.
That way, the copy of the video is in your head, where it can easily be accessed ;)
why would you colour the red wire yellow?
I have no idea Lez.
Perhaps you can offer some suggestion?
:)
You have some misspellings here, I think you meant to type: thank you for this informative video, it was very helpful.
@@MultiReadify What spelling I spell tire tyre . Simple question got snarky answer
I'm trying to figure out my first diagram and it is hard. One question I have is about a long thin rectangle listed as "ECU". Coming out from the long sides of this rectangle are a number of short straight lines, which I guess are wires. These go into some very small long thin rectangles with a solid line down the longitudinal axis (so, in effect, two long thin rectangles joined on their long sides to form a single rectangle). These small rectangles have varying numbers of those short wires going into them from the main ECU rectangle. Sometimes, one per rectangle, and in other cases up to four. How do I interpret all of that? Could I email you a copy of the diagram?
Robert, these diagrams that you describe, provide an overview.
There will be separate diagrams dealing with component connections and their purposes.
Somehow, you need to get your hands on the set, if you want to understand everything.
They will be available on the service centre network.
A friendly mechanic might print them off for you.
That said, there is little that you can do without the scan kit that connects to the reader port.
The ECU is the computer that controls everything - Electronic or Engine Control Unit.
You don't rewire it, you reprogram it.
... or simply scan the system to discover any faults.
These vehicles are going to become increasingly difficult to repair, as the components will periodically, no longer be available new.
@@EngineTuning I'm looking at just one small subsection of the FSM. There are separate diagrams for each section.
Why not make a simple video using a screen recorder program like snagit or any such app?
That way, you could zoom in and out of the diagrams, and describe what you are looking for.
It would also mean that you would be sharing the problem with many more people.
:)
@@EngineTuning I got the Haynes manual and the diagram in it is *much* easier to read. But still there is the matter of the ECU. I spoke with a couple of people who helped me understand that you can't trace current flow through an ECU. All you can test is for voltage on the wiring coming out of it and going to the load.
Great to hear that you are making progress.
Other than using an ECU scanner; understanding load circuit is probably as good as it gets.
The ECU is a bit like having a large rucksack ... you can just fill it with loads of stuff.
If something goes wrong, it is often quicker to produce a workaround, rather than spend a month studying the ECU.
I recently needed to get my windscreen washer working for a control test.
The rear washer worked, but not the front.
I'd renewed the pump, but it was the control circuitry.
Was it the clock spring?
The diagrams were not clear.
... so I simply bridged the two output tubes (front and rear).
If the water jet had been weak I would have ultimately fitted a solenoid valve, but it worked (works) fine.
Sometimes, the path of least resistance is the best route to take :)
maybe the indicator lamp earths out at the bottom left earth
Patrick sussed it in the pinned comment :)
@@EngineTuning if only i was as good at reading comments ;)
Do you know where could I get software wiring diagrams for motorcycles? thanks