I have been a forklift driver for over 50 years. The last 19 years, I have been a driver for the very company that originally built yours. The only time I ever use sideshift is when I am required to do so for testing purposes, as a "test driver". I would happily give up sideshift for "fork possitioners", or the ability to move the forks closer together or farther apart without exiting the driver's compartment, especially concerning larger trucks where the forks are too heavy to move. So, I have no problem with your choice to remove the sideshift, and as small as your lift truck is, you don't need fork positioners either.👍
My workplace has Toyotas with both side shifting and fork positioning, I can't imagine using one without both of them. It's super useful for fine maneuvering and positioning of boxes on top of each other.
Side shift is the best. Especially for narrow racking and stacking things. Another useful thing with sideshift is you can "shuffle" pallets around. However it's extremely situational.
I used to drive Hyster 3600s (very large) with side shift AND fork positioners. The two options paired together made for super easy positing of the massive forks on those machines. I honestly would have kept this feature even on a little forklift.
I was thinking the same thing! Probably doesn't bother him. But I thought the indicator being red would be nice. Would be above and beyond to paint a center indicator.
I'm glad I could help a little bit on making this hydraulic system more reliable and nicer to use. Nice touch on painting the letters on the counter weight. Looks really nice. I wouldn't be too concerned about the difference in lift capacity either. That thing is so overbuilt that even without the engine, it would lift max capacity. :)
You could use a foot throttle pedal to bump the engine speed up to max only when you need it. Like driving in a straight line or quickly raising the forks. That way you won't have a screaming engine all the time and won't have to endure the slow crawl. The steering indicator could use a highlight. Instead of painting the scuff plate or the indicator, perhaps a plate painted bright then have the pin stuck through in the middle. That way it's recessed, keeping dirt off it, as a bonus you could paint each half a different color so you could glance down read how much the corresponding color is showing.
Would've been more expensive but for steering control an Orbital valve might've been a better choice, would let you keep a steering wheel and give more control over steering since it moves faster the faster you turn the wheel :P Would also provide for a tilt steering wheel since only hoses go to the valve.
Steering having priority is the normal way of doing it, loosing steering when handling a load is worse than the hydraulic functions being slower, essentially everything uses more oil than the steering so if it isn't first it'll be starved when other functions are used and will be lost entirely, this is usually handled with a priority valve in commercial machinery.@@taomicioli
@@taomicioli That is the cheapest way to handle it but very valid, best way is to have 2 pumps, 1 for drive and 1 for load handling/steering with a ptiority valve.
I gave you a sub because you're saving that SD220/240 or whatever it is, plus the (presumably) T98 trans it's hooked to. Every single part for that engine and transmission (minus intake/exhaust manifolds) is still relatively easy to find. Only about 100 horsies but loads of torque, and it'll run at its max governed RPM all day long for years as long as you give it enough cooling. Can't say enough nice things about an IH I6. Oh, and the forkylift is real purdy, too. Now I have to justify to my wife why I, too, need a forklift for [REASONS]
That is actually a Clark non synchro 5 speed factory trans. I was expecting a t98 as well. Not sure what I will do with it, but I will find a good home for em. I love inline sixes. Ford 300 is my favorite
Love it. The colours are superb (inc the rear) and the mix of old and new is a delight (maybe not the engine but so what, your rodeo, your rules). Also really like the fact you've improved it from first go. The slower steering looks much easier to use. I bet it's a great talking point whenever you get a delivery and hopefully a joy every time you use it. Well done.
Hi Austin thanks for the mention. I do have a tractor with a backhoe (Chinese) and have the same problem. Im follow Lucia channel also, I watch Viny at the biginnig of the construction of the backhoe but as i have one it dindnt arouse so much interest. all the very best.
This is a fantastic conversion, I wouldn't have expected a little single-cylinder engine to work anywhere near as well as this works. I have a suggestion for your steering indication - Attach a push-pull cable for a remote gauge. You could snake the cable to the top of the fixed part of the mast so that the steering position indicator is always right in front of you.
Initially, I was slightly surprised that you didn't cut a line/grove on top of your steering indicator pin -- front to back when centered -- to make reading at a glance easier. (Rather than leave it a black circle in a black panel above a black void.) But while thinking about the geometry of hanging a rotating pointer on it, to amplify the rotation (to match the actual wheel's position) - I remembered that it _is_ in a step; So the 'natural colour' of the area may outline it soon enough. Maybe stick a round cap on top of it, just to make spotting/locating it at a glance easier in low light?
You did an amazing job on this! 🎉🎉 I couldn't even imagine the amount work it takes to (overhaul/restore/improve) a forklift. Especially with all the old grease that was caked on from years of operation. 💯 👍 Great work!
I like what yiou did in bringing this lift back to life being its as old as it is, I think if I had the money to do one It would be simular to what you did.
For the money the predator motor cost or lack of money I should say, they are GREAT! Now that being said if it was on something that could strand me in the woods or on the water I would maybe go with Honda but dollar for dollar I looove the predator!!
Fully agreed on the side shift, for your average person it's just not that useful. Sure it's great in a production facility where every second counts, but outside of that it's a nice to have, but not necessary. Funny enough I have that identical flow control valve on my PTO driven wood chipper for the power feed.
Funny enough I just got a new truck with a side shift to replace an old one that didn't, and now I feel I don't know how I lived without it! For accurate positioning of pallets on a racking, it's a real boon and often saves a shunt.
Awesome video with great explanations, I fully appreciate you explaining your lessons learnt, its not a mistake when you learn from it and correct the issues, I tip my hat for you resurecting a project that would of otherwise anded up as scrapp, cudos to you
It had a classic look but it seems like it a brand new retro 2023 model. I think it is an awesome build and as long as the owner likes it and is useful for them that is all that matters.
@@AustinCoulson Maybe also paint the tip of the steering indicator so you could have a bit more contrast. I'm writing this at the 6:03 mark, so maybe you address that later.
Pulling truck weights would be a possibility if you decide to change rear weight balance. They are made for quick removal so if you had a stable and secure attachment point; adding and removing could be as needed. Painted red of course...
@@AustinCoulson Could mount them on the rear hitch with a rack. That's the extreme end, best spot. It would also make it easy to put on and off. You wouldn't need them all the time. If you can have some pipe bent to match the shape of the rear casting, then it would also look stylish, as the weights would contour to that shape too.
I tried looking for a source and struck out. Consider getting in touch with the National Truck Pulling Association. Another though are the 45 pound gym weights that are just as easy to add/remove as needed. You can locate those at any national fitness store or go to a local gym and ask if you could purchase some that are a little beat up and need replacing.@@AustinCoulson
Inline six go-kart. Jokes aside, i think it's an excellent resto-mod. I'm sure that for everything you'll do in that workshop, it's more than adequate.
Just overall i think that you have done a great demonstration on how to restore and primarly mod an old machine with a simple tech that used to have non standard, hard to comeby components that would be a pain in the a** to repair.
A simple mod I would love to see is painting the steering indicator and marking a neutral point so you can tell easier if you are using the forklift in darker environments.
I am surprised that the weight capacity is at spec at 30". Everything behind the drive axle IS part of the counter weight system engineered into the unit. I do appreciate the ingenuity and work you put into it. Its a great looking lift, thank you for sharing the build and your experiences with it.
@@AustinCoulson I understand that the lift was originally designed with a specified lifting capacity. After it was actually built and tested, the tag that you read now was produced. The lift rating includes having complete steering ability with the mast tilted forward and the forks at that capacity (location on forks, height of forks, mast tilted furthest away from the operator). There are other considerations as well; consider how you would loose steering if you were traveling down an incline or traveling at the original speed and suddenly had to change direction while applying the brakes. You had steering issues at approximately the rated capacity. Like I said before, I think the build is great. I would personally do the same things with it that you are. I am only trying to make sure that you or anyone else is aware that the weight you removed is part of the counter balance and that it does affect the lifting abilities and stability of the lift.
I"m not that surprised as most of the loss is between the wheels, but it puts the 3,500/5,000 close to absolute max, and not safety max. It'd be a bigger matter if the counterweight at the rear was a couple 3 hundred less. That was why in the first vid, I suggested putting the difference in weight as far back and as low as possible to give it a bigger safety margin.
Putting in a lighter engine has reduced the counter-balance weight, so strictly speaking the capacity should be reduced in proportion, to avoid eroding the factor of safety. This could be overcome by adding some dead weight inside the back of the frame.
What it is really supposed to have is a variable displacement pump. For running motors like you have you are supposed to use a motor valve. in the neutral position, it allows the motor to free spool.
100%. This was already getting a little expensive for a test project that I didn't even know would work. If I would've known I was going with a flow diverter valve, I would've gone with an orbital valve for steering. But those are also expensive
Pretty nifty build on the old Hyster lift truck! You should maybe look into a steering block and wheel (orbital valve) from an old road grader or something similar that has full hydraulic steering. Then it would steer like a normal vehicle, and your hydraulic plumbing could still reside under the 'dash'.😉
That would be cool, but this pump requires at least 12hp and I don't have a ton of experience with those cheap lil diesels. I would love to play around with one. Maybe on a little go kart
@@AustinCoulson Oh ok makes sense didn't realize it needed a certain amount of hp. Would love to see you tinker with one sometime:) thank you so much for replying
I feel like a simple orbital valve with a steering wheel on it would be a better choice then the stick steering controls. Just for user friendliness. Cool looking resto though !!
If I would have known that I was going to use this diverter valve, I could have used an orbital steering valve. It would have added about 500$ but would have been worth it. I still may change it out later
For the electric start throw a little Noco Lithium Battery in it. It's pretty reasonably priced. I have one on my Motorcycle and love it. It starts hard and doesn't drain as it sits near as bad as the old lead acid battery
seems like a nice and working conversion might be eazier to operate if you can do both the forwarth and reverse and the steering off the same lever (4 way like a joystick operation ) loosing the bigger original engine does mean it can lift less before it dips forwarts
you can get a billet con rod and stage one valve springs and a custom TQ cam or custom grind at delta cams lol ;] but for real drilling out main jet one size up with mini drill bits or just order a kit helps them so much in stock form with pulling loads the fuel as they have no traffic squirt pump and epa lean burn ye know. if i had to swap engines i w00d get a H.F. twin just because it sounds kohl E R ARE SWEET MAY BE CAN SCORE ONE CHEAP ONE DAY good no really modding the harbor freight engines are fun and the 460 or 490cc [i forget new red one ] is built like a tank the piston even looks like a race piston design really impressed and that same design is used on the generators to me a bit better that the black o e but one can not get billet con rods for it [red one ] but can for the black 13hp 420cc units. fyi billet rods have insert bearings unlike OEM rods that do not a nice thing .pardon the bad grammar type fast and on the run you could say
I don‘t blame you for putting in a cheap engine. But man, just think about what a nice piece of equipment this would be if there was a small Kubota Diesel engine in it. Something like a Kubota D722 three cylinder diesel with 20hp. This would be sweet.
This thing is awesome, with one exception. It drives to slowly for me. I’d go nuts only being able to travel at 1mph. What could be done to speed it up? You said the hydraulic motor makes it 25% of the previous speed? Hypothetically of course, could you upsize the motor to say.. go at half previous speed with the current predator Engine?
The engine/pump/motor are all rated around the same (13gpm). I was operating in first gear. second is faster but has less torque. I could've gone with a predator v twin and a 21 gpm pump and motor but it would have added about 1500-2k$ and its already plenty fast for my needs.
Amazing work. I have no experience with mechanics but one question came to mind. Is it safe for those pipes to be running on the front panel ? isn't it dangerous if one failed and had high pressure fluid shooting in the face ?
Yea that would not be good. The pump maxes out at 3000psi and the hoses are rated for 4800psi so they usually fail after years of sun damage, but in the follow up video I add some hose sleeves
sandy torpor is the colour you were talking about in ur last video on this forklift its from old Toyota land cruisers had it with the stripes your talking about we call it Tal***n tan
If you connect a cable to the steering indicator and run it up to the dash into you natural field of view with an indicator there you wouldn't have to look away from the front to tell where the wheel is
That slow speed i think would drive me nuts. But in actuality it would be just fine. But, is there a way to add a second "gear" (not familiar with hydraulics at all really) that you could flip a valve to increase speed maybe? Also, curious why you didn't add electric start motor. I think I am just lazy lol
It already has an electric starter on it, but it needs a battery to operate it. I will probably hook a battery up to it later so I can use that. The transmission has 2 speeds but I haven't figured out how I will do the shifter linkage yet. I forgot to mention that at the end of this video.
oh and I too follow Lucia. She's brilliant. Love her work. She's not just the face of the channel mimicking what her husband does. She is actually doing the work herself.
why did you decide to put the steering valve on the dash istead of on the left side like the other ones are on the right i think it might be more comfortiable there and no hoses in the front since the steering is also in the back
It's currently in first gear. I can shift it, but I have to hop off the lift and raise the hood to do it because I haven't hooked up linkage and a proper shifter yet, but I will.
Isn't cooling the main issue here? If you have to manage the RPM's in november and you bet on longevity, the air cooling system could be improved by welding some extra "fins" or something isn't ?
I don't manage RPMs because it would overheat, I manage RPMs because its overall so much less wear on the machine. At around 1800-2200 RPM the temp stays around 140*F while operating it. The hottest I have got this motor is 160*F and that was higher RPM while pushing around a box truck.
Also, OSHA won't be happy about the hole in the one fork. But, I didn't think of certification due to the use case being private. Split rims = widow maker, no arguments.
@@madcat4563 My buddy up here is a code inspector and his job seems really stressful. Having to tell contractors over and over that they can't cut into trusses and they have to redo their work.
The bild looking gud . And wen you can work with gud too see . And yeas on dis old Mashins is all overbild and this is wy dis mashin work today . For me i get 2 cilinder version or biger . BUT thee look is wery nice .
I have been a forklift driver for over 50 years. The last 19 years, I have been a driver for the very company that originally built yours. The only time I ever use sideshift is when I am required to do so for testing purposes, as a "test driver". I would happily give up sideshift for "fork possitioners", or the ability to move the forks closer together or farther apart without exiting the driver's compartment, especially concerning larger trucks where the forks are too heavy to move. So, I have no problem with your choice to remove the sideshift, and as small as your lift truck is, you don't need fork positioners either.👍
My workplace has Toyotas with both side shifting and fork positioning, I can't imagine using one without both of them. It's super useful for fine maneuvering and positioning of boxes on top of each other.
Side shift is the best. Especially for narrow racking and stacking things. Another useful thing with sideshift is you can "shuffle" pallets around. However it's extremely situational.
I used to drive Hyster 3600s (very large) with side shift AND fork positioners. The two options paired together made for super easy positing of the massive forks on those machines. I honestly would have kept this feature even on a little forklift.
I think you meant 360 (36,000 lb capacity), because if they even made 3600s, that would be a 360,000 pound capacity truck.@@stephenr7424
I used side shift all the time when I stacked pallet goods 3 high
"I did a pretty decent restoration on it" is putting it very humbly, this was an amazing restoration.
I would either paint that steering indicator a bright color or put a rubber/plastic cap over it so that it's easier to see.
I was thinking the same thing! Probably doesn't bother him. But I thought the indicator being red would be nice. Would be above and beyond to paint a center indicator.
I'm glad I could help a little bit on making this hydraulic system more reliable and nicer to use. Nice touch on painting the letters on the counter weight. Looks really nice. I wouldn't be too concerned about the difference in lift capacity either. That thing is so overbuilt that even without the engine, it would lift max capacity. :)
I'm looking forward to seeing how your forklift conversion turns out
You could use a foot throttle pedal to bump the engine speed up to max only when you need it. Like driving in a straight line or quickly raising the forks. That way you won't have a screaming engine all the time and won't have to endure the slow crawl.
The steering indicator could use a highlight. Instead of painting the scuff plate or the indicator, perhaps a plate painted bright then have the pin stuck through in the middle. That way it's recessed, keeping dirt off it, as a bonus you could paint each half a different color so you could glance down read how much the corresponding color is showing.
Can’t believe how much power it still has with the new setup! Freaking awesome!!
Would've been more expensive but for steering control an Orbital valve might've been a better choice, would let you keep a steering wheel and give more control over steering since it moves faster the faster you turn the wheel :P Would also provide for a tilt steering wheel since only hoses go to the valve.
i woulda done that and steering NOT have 1st prioity..
Steering having priority is the normal way of doing it, loosing steering when handling a load is worse than the hydraulic functions being slower, essentially everything uses more oil than the steering so if it isn't first it'll be starved when other functions are used and will be lost entirely, this is usually handled with a priority valve in commercial machinery.@@taomicioli
@HStahlberg ok.. maybe split pump output to each, with a flow controller (saw it at the end of vid)
@@taomicioli That is the cheapest way to handle it but very valid, best way is to have 2 pumps, 1 for drive and 1 for load handling/steering with a ptiority valve.
i thought he tried and orbital valve and it didn't work right?
I gave you a sub because you're saving that SD220/240 or whatever it is, plus the (presumably) T98 trans it's hooked to. Every single part for that engine and transmission (minus intake/exhaust manifolds) is still relatively easy to find. Only about 100 horsies but loads of torque, and it'll run at its max governed RPM all day long for years as long as you give it enough cooling. Can't say enough nice things about an IH I6. Oh, and the forkylift is real purdy, too. Now I have to justify to my wife why I, too, need a forklift for [REASONS]
That is actually a Clark non synchro 5 speed factory trans. I was expecting a t98 as well. Not sure what I will do with it, but I will find a good home for em. I love inline sixes. Ford 300 is my favorite
Love it. The colours are superb (inc the rear) and the mix of old and new is a delight (maybe not the engine but so what, your rodeo, your rules). Also really like the fact you've improved it from first go. The slower steering looks much easier to use. I bet it's a great talking point whenever you get a delivery and hopefully a joy every time you use it. Well done.
love the paint - did not think I would... but really do like how it came out.
this thing is amazing
I know very little about forklifts. This is cool!
I never knew I liked slow old forklifts this much.
I had lst track since the restoration, very fine work, and with a single cylinder lawn mower engine, hats off to you
Absolutely love the color scheme for this restomood.
I would say to put a drop of the tan paint on the steering indicator so that you can see it better in low light situations.
I love this build it looks really smart. With the hydraulic conversation bringing the old beast into the modern age is a brilliant Idea.
Hi Austin thanks for the mention.
I do have a tractor with a backhoe (Chinese) and have the same problem.
Im follow Lucia channel also, I watch Viny at the biginnig of the construction of the backhoe but as i have one it dindnt arouse so much interest.
all the very best.
This is a fantastic conversion, I wouldn't have expected a little single-cylinder engine to work anywhere near as well as this works.
I have a suggestion for your steering indication - Attach a push-pull cable for a remote gauge. You could snake the cable to the top of the fixed part of the mast so that the steering position indicator is always right in front of you.
Quite literally the nicest forklift I’ve ever seen! Awesome build
Initially, I was slightly surprised that you didn't cut a line/grove on top of your steering indicator pin -- front to back when centered -- to make reading at a glance easier. (Rather than leave it a black circle in a black panel above a black void.)
But while thinking about the geometry of hanging a rotating pointer on it, to amplify the rotation (to match the actual wheel's position) - I remembered that it _is_ in a step; So the 'natural colour' of the area may outline it soon enough.
Maybe stick a round cap on top of it, just to make spotting/locating it at a glance easier in low light?
The paint job on that is fantastic - makes me very nostalgic for the 70's again!
You did an amazing job on this! 🎉🎉 I couldn't even imagine the amount work it takes to (overhaul/restore/improve) a forklift. Especially with all the old grease that was caked on from years of operation. 💯 👍 Great work!
Forklifts use what's called a priority valve to make sure steering has pressure first before all other functions.
Haha man kick ass! Didn't even know there was a follow up, but I'm glad ya got the letters painted up! Sick restomod
Looks like it suits your needs well.
Oh man that lettering pops!
Well, glad it works for you, definitely looks pretty.
Looks great, Austin! Congrats on 100k subscribers!
I like what yiou did in bringing this lift back to life being its as old as it is, I think if I had the money to do one It would be simular to what you did.
For the money the predator motor cost or lack of money I should say, they are GREAT! Now that being said if it was on something that could strand me in the woods or on the water I would maybe go with Honda but dollar for dollar I looove the predator!!
Awesome build, painting the Logo finished it!
Very cool, like the upgrades. You saving an old forklift. Well done
Beautifull job on that paint, and on the Hyster lettering.
Love it, Only thing to add is a big Googly eye sticker on the steering indicator.
100k subs. Well Done Austin! Here's to a milliion! 😀
Fully agreed on the side shift, for your average person it's just not that useful. Sure it's great in a production facility where every second counts, but outside of that it's a nice to have, but not necessary. Funny enough I have that identical flow control valve on my PTO driven wood chipper for the power feed.
Funny enough I just got a new truck with a side shift to replace an old one that didn't, and now I feel I don't know how I lived without it! For accurate positioning of pallets on a racking, it's a real boon and often saves a shunt.
Cleanest Fork Truck I’ve ever seen.
This forklift is a beauty !
Sounds like you learned an great deal !
Congrats on reaching 100K. No doubt you'll reach 1 Million in no time. 👍
I have no idea what your talking about, but you do and that’s what is important! Ver interesting video. Great looking old forklift!
Awesome video with great explanations, I fully appreciate you explaining your lessons learnt, its not a mistake when you learn from it and correct the issues, I tip my hat for you resurecting a project that would of otherwise anded up as scrapp, cudos to you
Nice an update!
That steering indicator is dope. That should be standard on all forklifts.
Great job but the slow speed would drive me nuts
It had a classic look but it seems like it a brand new retro 2023 model. I think it is an awesome build and as long as the owner likes it and is useful for them that is all that matters.
From an authentic perspective I would change the colors on knobs of the 3 levers to match the stripes on the side. Otherwise it looks good to me 👍
That's interesting idea
@@AustinCoulson Maybe also paint the tip of the steering indicator so you could have a bit more contrast. I'm writing this at the 6:03 mark, so maybe you address that later.
Pulling truck weights would be a possibility if you decide to change rear weight balance. They are made for quick removal so if you had a stable and secure attachment point; adding and removing could be as needed. Painted red of course...
Where would be a good place to source those weights?
@@AustinCoulson Could mount them on the rear hitch with a rack. That's the extreme end, best spot. It would also make it easy to put on and off. You wouldn't need them all the time. If you can have some pipe bent to match the shape of the rear casting, then it would also look stylish, as the weights would contour to that shape too.
I tried looking for a source and struck out. Consider getting in touch with the National Truck Pulling Association. Another though are the 45 pound gym weights that are just as easy to add/remove as needed. You can locate those at any national fitness store or go to a local gym and ask if you could purchase some that are a little beat up and need replacing.@@AustinCoulson
Thank you for this video. I learned some things about hydraulics I did not know before. (pretty easy to do, grin)
Inline six go-kart. Jokes aside, i think it's an excellent resto-mod. I'm sure that for everything you'll do in that workshop, it's more than adequate.
I would paint steering indicator pin in contrasting color, otherwise would be hard to see in dimmer lightning
Just overall i think that you have done a great demonstration on how to restore and primarly mod an old machine with a simple tech that used to have non standard, hard to comeby components that would be a pain in the a** to repair.
Such a cool build
A simple mod I would love to see is painting the steering indicator and marking a neutral point so you can tell easier if you are using the forklift in darker environments.
Nice!
Great idea and very handy
Great job!
Looks awsome
nice work
I am surprised that the weight capacity is at spec at 30". Everything behind the drive axle IS part of the counter weight system engineered into the unit. I do appreciate the ingenuity and work you put into it. Its a great looking lift, thank you for sharing the build and your experiences with it.
It has a rating tag on it that shows the lifting capacity at different distances on the forks. Its 5K at 15" then progressively drops to 3.5k at 30"
@@AustinCoulson I understand that the lift was originally designed with a specified lifting capacity. After it was actually built and tested, the tag that you read now was produced. The lift rating includes having complete steering ability with the mast tilted forward and the forks at that capacity (location on forks, height of forks, mast tilted furthest away from the operator). There are other considerations as well; consider how you would loose steering if you were traveling down an incline or traveling at the original speed and suddenly had to change direction while applying the brakes. You had steering issues at approximately the rated capacity. Like I said before, I think the build is great. I would personally do the same things with it that you are. I am only trying to make sure that you or anyone else is aware that the weight you removed is part of the counter balance and that it does affect the lifting abilities and stability of the lift.
I"m not that surprised as most of the loss is between the wheels, but it puts the 3,500/5,000 close to absolute max, and not safety max. It'd be a bigger matter if the counterweight at the rear was a couple 3 hundred less. That was why in the first vid, I suggested putting the difference in weight as far back and as low as possible to give it a bigger safety margin.
Putting in a lighter engine has reduced the counter-balance weight, so strictly speaking the capacity should be reduced in proportion, to avoid eroding the factor of safety. This could be overcome by adding some dead weight inside the back of the frame.
Correct as the weight of the original engine was part of the TOTAL counterweight.@@mikebradley4096
you can make the throttle lever easier to move by loosening the nut holding it down, they make it pretty tight from factory
What it is really supposed to have is a variable displacement pump. For running motors like you have you are supposed to use a motor valve. in the neutral position, it allows the motor to free spool.
one of those costs as much as all the other hydraulic components he has combined.
100%. This was already getting a little expensive for a test project that I didn't even know would work. If I would've known I was going with a flow diverter valve, I would've gone with an orbital valve for steering. But those are also expensive
I think you need that red on your steering indicator too. 👍
Leave the gauge where it is and add another one on the other side. That'll give you the differential pressure.
Pretty nifty build on the old Hyster lift truck! You should maybe look into a steering block and wheel (orbital valve) from an old road grader or something similar that has full hydraulic steering. Then it would steer like a normal vehicle, and your hydraulic plumbing could still reside under the 'dash'.😉
I might do that later on
Would be cool to see one of those 10hp chinese diesel engines in it. Either way I love everything about this forklift!
That would be cool, but this pump requires at least 12hp and I don't have a ton of experience with those cheap lil diesels. I would love to play around with one. Maybe on a little go kart
@@AustinCoulson Oh ok makes sense didn't realize it needed a certain amount of hp. Would love to see you tinker with one sometime:) thank you so much for replying
looking at the steering indicator you should the pointer yellow like the forklift
You have good tape skills?
I feel like a simple orbital valve with a steering wheel on it would be a better choice then the stick steering controls. Just for user friendliness. Cool looking resto though !!
If I would have known that I was going to use this diverter valve, I could have used an orbital steering valve. It would have added about 500$ but would have been worth it. I still may change it out later
For the electric start throw a little Noco Lithium Battery in it. It's pretty reasonably priced. I have one on my Motorcycle and love it. It starts hard and doesn't drain as it sits near as bad as the old lead acid battery
Great idea
seems like a nice and working conversion might be eazier to operate if you can do both the forwarth and reverse and the steering off the same lever (4 way like a joystick operation )
loosing the bigger original engine does mean it can lift less before it dips forwarts
Fantástico estou no Brazil vou fazer uma igual, excelente trabalho parabéns!
you can get a billet con rod and stage one valve springs and a custom TQ cam or custom grind at delta cams lol ;] but for real drilling out main jet one size up with mini drill bits or just order a kit helps them so much in stock form with pulling loads the fuel as they have no traffic squirt pump and epa lean burn ye know. if i had to swap engines i w00d get a H.F. twin just because it sounds kohl E R ARE SWEET MAY BE CAN SCORE ONE CHEAP ONE DAY good no really modding the harbor freight engines are fun and the 460 or 490cc [i forget new red one ] is built like a tank the piston even looks like a race piston design really impressed and that same design is used on the generators to me a bit better that the black o
e but one can not get billet con rods for it [red one ] but can for the black 13hp 420cc units. fyi billet rods have insert bearings unlike OEM rods that do not a nice thing .pardon the bad grammar type fast and on the run you could say
I don‘t blame you for putting in a cheap engine. But man, just think about what a nice piece of equipment this would be if there was a small Kubota Diesel engine in it. Something like a Kubota D722 three cylinder diesel with 20hp. This would be sweet.
This forklift should have been at Sema, the quality of the build is up there with all the custom cars.
You should add a starter motor and a choke cable up to the dash
I wonder if the transmission is getting lubricated at the low input shaft speed.?
Serious hydraulic geeking out😂
What if you used an electric steering rack for the sidestep feature?
A loader valve (joystick control)would be better to operate the drive functions with. That way you only need one hand to control it.
This thing is awesome, with one exception. It drives to slowly for me. I’d go nuts only being able to travel at 1mph. What could be done to speed it up? You said the hydraulic motor makes it 25% of the previous speed? Hypothetically of course, could you upsize the motor to say.. go at half previous speed with the current predator Engine?
The engine/pump/motor are all rated around the same (13gpm). I was operating in first gear. second is faster but has less torque. I could've gone with a predator v twin and a 21 gpm pump and motor but it would have added about 1500-2k$ and its already plenty fast for my needs.
Amazing work. I have no experience with mechanics but one question came to mind. Is it safe for those pipes to be running on the front panel ? isn't it dangerous if one failed and had high pressure fluid shooting in the face ?
Yea that would not be good. The pump maxes out at 3000psi and the hoses are rated for 4800psi so they usually fail after years of sun damage, but in the follow up video I add some hose sleeves
Hyster in red and I would do black around the red lettering to make the lettering pop
sandy torpor is the colour you were talking about in ur last video on this forklift its from old Toyota land cruisers had it with the stripes your talking about we call it Tal***n tan
You should put a white dot of paint on the steering indicator rod.
Moving the hydraulic hoses away from the chest and face of the driver would save the driver from injury in a hose breakage.
If you connect a cable to the steering indicator and run it up to the dash into you natural field of view with an indicator there you wouldn't have to look away from the front to tell where the wheel is
That slow speed i think would drive me nuts. But in actuality it would be just fine. But, is there a way to add a second "gear" (not familiar with hydraulics at all really) that you could flip a valve to increase speed maybe? Also, curious why you didn't add electric start motor. I think I am just lazy lol
It already has an electric starter on it, but it needs a battery to operate it. I will probably hook a battery up to it later so I can use that. The transmission has 2 speeds but I haven't figured out how I will do the shifter linkage yet. I forgot to mention that at the end of this video.
oh and I too follow Lucia. She's brilliant. Love her work. She's not just the face of the channel mimicking what her husband does. She is actually doing the work herself.
cool ok. Thanks@@AustinCoulson
@@AustinCoulson Adding that battery puts you on your journey to getting original weight back too.
You can run that motor wide open bc it has a fan as long as ur exhaust is piped out
I did the same thing 20 years ago with a 1967 Datsun and a 14HP Wisconsin It would lift or move Couldn't do both at the same time
I need a forklift too
Very beutiful lift truck
why did you decide to put the steering valve on the dash istead of on the left side like the other ones are on the right i think it might be more comfortiable there and no hoses in the front since the steering is also in the back
Bad ass!
Which of the 2 speeds is the transmission in? and do you still have the ability to shift between them?
It's currently in first gear. I can shift it, but I have to hop off the lift and raise the hood to do it because I haven't hooked up linkage and a proper shifter yet, but I will.
Isn't cooling the main issue here? If you have to manage the RPM's in november and you bet on longevity, the air cooling system could be improved by welding some extra "fins" or something isn't ?
I don't manage RPMs because it would overheat, I manage RPMs because its overall so much less wear on the machine. At around 1800-2200 RPM the temp stays around 140*F while operating it. The hottest I have got this motor is 160*F and that was higher RPM while pushing around a box truck.
I get it. A cheap, readily available, yet relyable engine does make sense.
Also, OSHA won't be happy about the hole in the one fork.
But, I didn't think of certification due to the use case being private.
Split rims = widow maker, no arguments.
I'm not sure I've ever seen a happy OSHA rep. That is not a job I would want.
@@AustinCoulson 😆👍 Also true
@@madcat4563 My buddy up here is a code inspector and his job seems really stressful. Having to tell contractors over and over that they can't cut into trusses and they have to redo their work.
The bild looking gud .
And wen you can work with gud too see .
And yeas on dis old Mashins is all overbild and this is wy dis mashin work today .
For me i get 2 cilinder version or biger .
BUT thee look is wery nice .