Chevy Tahoe / Suburban Fuel Pump Replacement Without Dropping the Fuel Tank ... In 2 hours or less!
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- Опубліковано 6 січ 2021
- Today I’ll show you step by step how to replace a fuel pump on an early 2000’s Chevy Tahoe without dropping the fuel tank. It’s a fast and efficient way to get back on the road. As always, when working on the fuel system of a vehicle, be cautious not to produce sparks or flames. Please like and subscribe if you found this video helpful to help me grow my channel. Thanks folks!
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This video is spot on. You saved me $700 labor and now I have an access hole if I need it. Thank you!!
Thanks for watching!
Give this man a beer! 🫵🏼🍺
I'm about to dive in to this project today on my Yukon. Thanks for your inspiration.
Best of luck Timothy!
You, sir, are a genius and a credit to the human race!
Omg your a life saver. I really did not want to pay someone 400 to do this!! I can do it myself
Very helpful bro. Very detailed instruction and my Tahoe is an 02 with 260k miles. This is exactly what Ive been looking for. Thank you
Glad I could help Don... thank you for your feedback.
Thanks for the tip! It worked like a charm!
Fantastic Joel! Thanks for dropping a comment!
I know this video is older, but thanks a million!! I'll save this video, for the inevitable fuel pump failure these older trucks are known for.
Appreciate the comment… this video is still kicking (and so is the Tahoe). 😁
🤠 Seriously, how ingenious, there is no doubt that the past generation was the law
You are an absolute life saver, such a simple fix but i wouldnt have ever thought of it
Thanks Ben for your comment… glad you found it useful!
Great easy to follow along. The tempo video of perfect.
Thanks for watching Jonathan!
in thinking about doing this to my 2002 escalade 6.0, easy access to parts is always key for me
Thanks Dude! We owe you a beer!
Beers are always welcome! 🍻
Awesome brother thank you
Thank you brother you just made my life 100% easier. Thanks for the attention to detail.
You’re most welcome Douglas… I appreciate you taking time to comment. 🙂
Good show...
I'm so glad I find your video and of course thank you for share your knowledge and save us a few hundreds I'm having a hard time finding a good and honest mechanic
Thank you for your kind comment Vicente, it’s much appreciated hearing from folks who find my videos useful.
Nicely done.
Thank you sir…!
By all means NOT being a Karen I just want to make sure I am following along. I am so glad I found your video. Thank you for trying to help me.
Yep… that’s all the same bolt, for holding down the jack. It’s not necessary if you don’t want to retain your jack under the seat… but none of the seat mounting bolts are affected and remain in place.
Jeremy- thank u for the video, it was a great help and a great time and money saver
A mechanic quoted me $525 for parts and labor and I just finished completely for $135 Thank u VERY much !!!
Awesome Charles, I’m glad you found it useful! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment!
Thanks going to do my Tahoe and post it
Thanks for this!
Thanks for watching and commenting Brian!
Great idea!!
So glad I found you! you just saved me hours of work and of course the pump failed with a full tank so i wasnt going to spend 100$ on 5 gas jugs to recover fuel into, and dropping a tank with 200lbs of liquid in it on my back certainly isnt a fun option, so I found THIS! Had to take a little time to subscribe to your channel and say thank you! I copied your cut diagram to the "T" and all worked perfect. Appreciate you very much.
So glad it worked out for you! I definitely appreciate the comment and subscribing... more to come, stay tuned!
What did you use to cut it?
@@harcoisthebeezneez I used pneumatic nibblers for sheet metal. Have to start by drilling a 3/8” hole. If you’re absolutely confident you don’t have any fuel vapor, and angle grinder will do... but there’s a ton of risk with that. A reciprocating saw and short blade would be the better option.
Would a jigsaw work to cut? Also I have an 06 Tahoe that I was wondering if the location is similar?
Thank you so much!
Dude you are an absolute life saver…. I went in to this video very doubtful but your execution was flawless and holy shit did it save time and money. 100% the way to go bro.
Thanks Justin… glad it helped you out!
I did this year's ago on a square body suburban with a 40 gallon tank that had just been filled. Among other tools I had a Sawzall and generator in the back, 150 miles from home and dark I rolled the carpet back and made the access the factory should have
Thank You for the video. My retaining ring was just as rusted as yours. I used a small drill bit and drilled several small holes on the top and bottom of ring to remove. Wiring diagram on the after market pump not correct so I had to go with a GM. This wiring was correct. Up and running saving me at least $500. It took me 2 days @ about 5 hours per day. Hot here in Chicago. Again thank you very much.
Awesome William… happy to assist! Yes… those retaining rings can get pretty nasty… amazing how strong rust can be. 😁
Thank you for this useful information
i got 2 of this trucks 1 is a 2005 i use for the roadtrips
Another one i use for city hauling stuff and ive done a fuel pump on both and its a pain to lower the tank.
You’re welcome! Thanks for the comment!
I used a dremel 3000 with the EZ-Lock cutter blade to cut out the panel. Thanks for the license plate idea to reinforce the floor. Will have to go back in to implement it later. Just used a few short self tapping screws and flashing tape to seal it all back up. Saved a ton of money DIYing it. Most mechanics i called where quoting me $900 -$1100 which is outrageous. Thanks again!!
Awesome... thanks for taking the time to comment, this is exactly why I make these videos... to help others save a few bucks and to share knowledge. Happy New Year my friend!
Did the Dremel cause any sparks? I actually just bought the exact model and cutter blade and was curious!
@@skeliton1011Yes there were sparks but very minimal. Once i got a straight cut going i reduced the speed of the dremel and the sparks went away.
I used a grinder and it threw sparks everywhere but nothing happened. Then again I'm a pro mechanic so of course I capped everything off to prevent fuel vapor from igniting
I used a hammer and chisel and I changed the fuel pump in my 95 cadillac in less then 20 mins
Yours looked more like mine than any on the u tube pages. Too bad I found this after we did it. it still worked and just make sure you turn the key forward three times, after you install the new fuel pump. I listened to the fuel pump, before we covered, and it started right up and no dropping the tank. You might need two people I pushed on the ring as my husband turned the ring, it has a bit of a spring.
started right up.
Great job thanks nice thanks
Approximately what size access area did you cut?? 6" x 9"? Also what have you found to be the best tool to make the cuts??
very nice.
You’re a legend hahaha! I love it.
Holy shit brother you save me a lot of time and hassle by this video today I changed my fuel pump on my 2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 it was a miracle thank you for your help
My pleasure Marc… glad you found it useful!
@@jeremy_rigged Brother yes very much. Blessings
Did it on my 2003 suburban right under the seat👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
awesome!!!!!
How much clearance did you have between the tank/lines/wiring and the floor? Asking so i know what length blade i can use
I just replaced I dropped the fuel tank I should watch this video before I spent 3 hours by myself, thanks for share this video very explain and detailed
Thank you Mariana… sorry you missed this first and hope your project went well!
Im glad to notice how wayyy much easier yo vid was. I just watched one that took this guy almost 2hrs if that. Just by unhooking the lines,hoses,clamps, brackets. U just made it so much easier. Wat did u use to cut the metal. That tool I dnt hav. But I appreciate the vid. U showed me alot to making a hard job not too difficult to do. My problem on my truck is the floater sensor. The fuel pump is fine I just dnt see myself buying a new pump when all I need is the sensor. But I guess havin the new pump comes wit all that already. Is there a certain model # I need.?
Thanks for the comment Deezy… I cut this one with a pneumatic nibbler, but you can use a short metal cutting blade in a reciprocating saw (sawz-all) or on a jig saw. (you can also use a metal cutting blade on an angle grinder if you are 100% certain you have no fuel leaks or an abundance of fumes.) I recommend a jig saw … much less risk. As for the pump, I purchased a cheaper non-OEM pump from Rockauto.com and it’s been fine. You may have an easier time finding the whole pump assembly in stock versus just the fuel probe sending unit… but best wishes on your repair whichever way you choose to go.
I have a 1999 chevy tahoe that just lost the fuel pump, is it in the same place as your 2002?
What did he use to cut it
Absolutely brilliant. Thanks for this. On a lighter note :
Me : my suburban got fuel problems.
Mechanic : simple fix, $850 bucks only.
Me all stressed smoke a Cigarette n found Jeremy's Video feeling top of the world.
Mechanic : you ready boss.
Me (hold my beer) : your fired 😅😅😅
Jeremy you're a rockstar buddy
Thanks Dalton!
I just bought a new fuel pump and there are three ports for fuel lines. What is the third one for.
Would this work on a 07 suburban z71??
Thank you! This is a very common thing to do in the jeep world but wondering what did you use to make the cut? Assuming it wasnt a grinder
Thanks Adam… a half inch drill bit for a pilot hole and a short metal cutting blade on a jigsaw will get the job done safely. (Reciprocating saw as well.) Either choice, try and use a saw with an adjustable shoe to keep your cutting depth at an inch or less.
THANK GOD I FOUND THIS 🙏 my Tahoe is a 2000 with 220,000 miles on it I ordered a new pump and fuel pressure regulator on Amazon and now after watching your video I wish I would have ordered the top ring also it did cross my mind if it was going to be junk or not and I'm thinking I should have just bought a new one anyway regardless because this don't look like it's going to be fun I changed the fuel filter hoping that would have done something but it didn't now the next step is the pump and regulator I'm going to put a new fuel pressure regulator on it with a new pump all the same time so the whole fuel system will be all new regulator pump and fuel filter I've got a load of tools inside my truck because it's basically that a truck and the back seats have been folded down since I bought it and it's covered with all my tools so I got to clean my truck to get the seat out I don't care about the car but I don't care but none of that I just want to punch a hole and put a new pump and go but if I have to take the seats out I will you know so I am so glad I found this video thank you very much in details are perfect very good detailer very clear understand and hey you know what you didn't have to swear that's awesome person can teach without saying rot and stuff and my friend you are a teacher thank you so much Rodger and Grantsburg Wisconsin
Happy to help Roger! That pump retainer ring is pretty common and usually in stock at Advance Auto and Autozone… about $12 there, may want to grab one. Best wishes my friend!
@@jeremy_rigged I had to laugh because everyone talks about big brother and all the algorithms of Big marketing and my got done looking at you watching your video and clicked off of UA-cam and in my email inbox was suggestion from Amazon for a four and a half inch DeWalt angle grinder just what I needed how did they know funny how they knew laugh out loud but when I ordered the pump I should have got the ring I thought about it afterwards and I and I now I should have I should have bought one when I ordered a pump and all the stuff I bought on Amazon for a third of the price and same pump is what they were selling at the parts store for $40 less they wanted 95 bucks for a pump and I remember how much it was for the setup for the pressure regulator but it was way more than what I paid on Amazon . Again thanks for the video a very good video . And I'm going to see if we're going to undertake everything here tomorrow if I got everything that I'm going to call the parts store right away in the morning in town here bumper to bumper or O'Reilly's now it's O'Reilly's and see if they got one or if they can order a ring if I order before 10:00 I can have it the same day you know so make sure if I need a new one I'm not even going to mess around with the old one.
Did this to my Avalanche 7 years ago! : )
While the floor was cut I installed a simple hinge system so in the future I can just unlatch it and easy access
Brilliant!
Hey Jeremy great thinking I did the same thing to my ranger a couple of years back and some of the comments were less than flattering LOL anyway I think it was ingenious of you, take care, be careful
Thanks Anthony... a few folks act like this technique is such taboo... but it’s obvious they never owned a VW, as every VW I own has a factory installed fuel pump access hatch. 😁 Thanks for the comment my friend!
@@jeremy_rigged you're welcome sir.
@@jeremy_rigged Not to beat a dead horse, but you and I did what the factory should have but didn't simply because they want us to have to go to a shop or dealer to get it done. Capitalism ain't cool when we Americans exercise it on fellow Americans. You might see my channel and read my responses to some of the Nay Sayers =) It's only taboo if you don't take precautions or otherwise compromise the integrity of the panel.
Great video, really helpful, thank you!
My problem is mine leaks from the top of the tank when I fill it so I'm afraid there's gas pooled at the top which would not be good when I hit it with my grinder's sparks, hah. I've run it dry (I think) and it has sat for a few months - wondering if anyone had thoughts/experience?? I doubt there's gas still sitting atop but it leaks from somewhere when filled so I worry there's a hole or something. The only reason it's still sitting all this time is because I'm paranoid...
If you carefully drill large pilot holes, the metal is thin enough that it will easily cut with a metal cutting blade on a jigsaw, or reciprocating saw. Best to just let the vehicle air out a few days and allow any pooled fuel to evaporate. Good luck!
Mine was leaking from the top also, so I got a guide hole with a hammer and punch, then from there you can use a jigsaw or tinsnips
Worked like a chaarm!!
Awesome!
What size head did you use for the nibbler? 16G? Also, would you share the link from where you purchased the fuel pump. Thank you kindly.
Gabriel, the nibbler I used was for 3/64” (18-19 gauge), a 16 would probably be perfect. Link for pump… please double check your truck details… mine has the 5.3L engine. www.carparts.com/details/Chevrolet/Tahoe/DriveMotive/Fuel_Pump/2002/LT/8_Cyl_5-dot-3L/REPC314507.html
I’ve got a 2003 Tahoe, and after 2 pumps and the drama that comes with the mechanics wanting extra money, I WILL do this, I thought the actual access would on the “trunk” area just behind the second row, Thanks for a very helpful video ✌🏽
You’re welcome!
@jeremy_rigged hey what did you use to cut the hole?
I second this question. A cutting wheel seems dangerous
Sorry @greenhead333, I thought I answered this already. I started with a cutting wheel and quickly came to the same conclusion and switched to a metal cutting blade on my jigsaw. My jigsaw has an adjustable shoe for cut / stroke depth and I kept it at 1 inch… worked beautifully and actually cut faster than the cutting wheel.
@@jeremy_rigged much appreciated. I'm doing this job for a friend. I dropped the tank and was met with resistance at every turn. Got the job done, and not fuel pressure. Come to find out, the pump is either wired backwards thanks to the pump manufacturer's terrible wiring diagram, the owner bought the wrong pump. It's a 03 tahoe, with a flex fuel system. The owner said he told the parts store it was a 4.8L gasoline.
Either way I gotta get back at the pump, and think I may go the access door route for easier troubleshooting
What did you use to cut the access port?? Great video bit what method did you use for the hole?
I started with a cut-off wheel (badddd idea) but switched to a metal cutting blade on a jigsaw and set the stroke at about 3/4”.
Been trying to get that new lock ring on but I can't get it to seat all the way, been trying for a few days now, any tips?
I had to use a broad tipped flat blade screw driver to bend the tabs slightly upward… and it took a bit of rubber mallet and screw driver impacts to spin the lock ring fully. Seems as though the aftermarket ones are a little thicker.
I dont care what called it. Dang good video..... (Rivets) Thank you sir
Thank you!
@@jeremy_rigged I have one question. Were did the bolt go for the seat when you closed the opening. It is gone. I noticed it when you had shown the plate covering the hole
@@sesllc241 I believe the bolt you are referring to wasn’t a seat bolt, it was the bolt that retains the jack under the rear seat. It can be seen at 3:43 in the video with the large black plastic nut still on it. I just removed it altogether as I don’t have the factory jack for this vehicle.
@@sesllc241 also can be seen at 1:49
How would it have been for manufacturer already have access panel for this repair
Agreed… most of my other vehicles have an access panel from factory. (Two of them are VWs…)
So do you end up losing a stud for where the passenger side back seat mounts?
No... but there is a stud for where the jack mounts that is somewhat in the way while cutting. All of the seat mounting points remain intact and untouched.
Would the fuel pump be in the same position in my 2000 Chevy suburban 1500
Yes... the pump is in the same location on 2000-2006 Tahoes and Suburbans. Check this video for confirmation. ua-cam.com/video/_-AtMu-kfAU/v-deo.html
Hi there. Excellent video. What brand new pump did you use? Factory AC Delco or off brand? Doea it run well?
I used an aftermarket pump from AutoZone. No complaints, 30k miles later still running fine. www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/p/trugrade-fuel-pump-c5341011/563518_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:IEN:19486091408&&CATARGETID=120054150001289130&CADevice=m&gclid=CjwKCAjw04yjBhApEiwAJcvNod_NHZEBmql7PbX5G1oUMgorgP0FC1ds0LWBbiF1o4UbTjJ409RnQBoCI8oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Did it similarly on my 2003 Suburban, did not need to remove the seat, and used HVAC tape to close the access panel, and carpet tape to close the carpet. I did not reinforce the floor as it is clearly under the seat.
How did you do it without removing the seat? Cut the carpet?
great idea thank you
Caution don't use a grinder.
Why? I did.
@GLC61 any sparks? My grinder is just a on and off switch but there's no leaks .
This should be a standard way to fix this from factory
Agreed… many of my older VWs had a factory access port, as well as my motorhome.
Did this for my 97 Tahoe and my 01. I used a nibbler to cut the metal since I did not trust a cut off wheel throwing Sparks
Looks like you are cutting into the passenger side. That correct? I've got a 1999 GMC K1500 Suburban and the fuel tank does not want to drop down. Trying to find right spot to start cutting in.
I’m directly under the drivers side second row seat... if you can borrow an inspection camera (or pick up a cheap one at Harbor Freight or Lowes) you can explore a little by just drilling 1/4” holes to find the perfect spot. From what I understand this technique works on 2000 and up Tahoes and Suburbans... not sure anything is much different on a 1999, but can’t speak from experience, sorry.
That worked great on my 2003 Tahoe Z71. I bought the truck new in "03" and it still runs great today after 225K on it. Think I'll get 350K out of it, no problem. Thanks.
Would this be the same for my 2012 5.3
flex fuel?
I don’t believe it is the exact same location from what I’ve read, but is possible to do. Here’s one forum mentioning it, however the pictures no longer load. www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2007-yukon-denali-fuel-pump-access-door.105575/
Link for fuel pump? Will it also fits 2005 Suburban LT?
I bought the pump from carparts.com but it appears from a quick search your LT uses a different but similar pump to this one. I’ll let you do that research... Thanks!
Did you cut a seat mounting stud at the top- right of your hole?
No… that was a stud for where the vehicle jack is clamped and stored. No seat mounting points were harmed in the making of this video. 😋
Debating on whether or not to go with this method. Do you know if this works for the 3/4 ton?
Bandjolyn... this link may help. www.pirate4x4.com/threads/suburban-2500-fuel-pump-access-hole-locations.1425858/
@@jeremy_rigged Yes! Thank you, very helpful. You're a beast.
Im surprised it didn't have an access port from factory 😅 but now i know where to cut.
What and how did you cut the floor bed open. My fuel pump has a leak on top of tank connection?
My method wouldn’t work for you… I ground a small slot with an angle grinder (sparks aimed upwards) and finished the cut with a reciprocating saw. A good metal cutting blade on a jigsaw will work if you drill a 3/8” hole to start the blade. Same for a pneumatic nibbler… but it’s frustrating to use on the corrugated floor.
How did you seal the hole in the floor up?
I screwed a license plate over the seams and then taped those seams with metal foil heat tape.
Hey buddy @ (9:52) it has the plate covering your hole you cut out. right above that hole is the hole for the bolt and it is missing. It was there before you made the cut. does the bolt need be there or is ok that it is not? I just want to get this right so I can do it.
I was wondering the same thing too
Apparently it’s the stud that holds the spare tire jack in place.
My son's Tahoe needs this but I'm not sure of myself to do this. What did you use to cut out the floor? Wish I could see a more step-by-step vid of the cutting and removal, then how you mounted the plate on for reinforcement. Great video by the way, just not confident enough to try this myself.
Shawn, the safest way to make the cut is with a pneumatic sheetmetal nibbler or reciprocating saw. You can use an angle grinder with metal cutoff blade if you’re 100% certain there are no fuel vapors or leaks… but it’s risky and not advised. www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-air-shears-98580.html
How did you cut the access hole?
I used the Milwaukee grinder wheel. You can also use a Dremel 3000.
LOL we do the same thing with the 82-92 F-body's
What year is your vehicle? I have a 1997 gmc suburban that I have to replace the fuel pump on.
This video covers 2000-2006 Tahoes and Suburbans... I believe yours may be covered in this video. ua-cam.com/video/hcZtxa8O7yQ/v-deo.html
what did u use to cut the hole.... that metal is pretty tough
I started off with an abrasive wheel and quickly switched to a metal cutting blade on my jigsaw. Set to about a 1 inch stroke / cut depth.
Would the fuel pump be in the same spot in a 98 Tahoe 5.7 4 door 4 wheel drive
No... it’s more centered in the rear cargo section, lucky for you it’s less work removing seats. Here’s a link to a fellow who has done it. ua-cam.com/video/hcZtxa8O7yQ/v-deo.html
No bro I did in my 99 tahoe under the rear left seat second row I have a picture of the dimensions @anthony frago
@@user-es6wy8xu3e do you still have the picture of the dimensions im needing to do this on my 99 tahoe
@ 4:37 before you make your cut the bolt is there
So what did you use to make the cut? You were talking about Sparks but that cut looks like it was made with a cutting wheel on a grinder
Anthony, I made two initial small slots about an inch long with a cutoff wheel trying to keep the sparks flying upward into the cab and finished the cuts with a 4” Torch metal cutting blade on reciprocating saw that has an adjustable shoe to keep the blade penetration shallow. I’ve done one other with a pneumatic nibble, and it took forever. Still not the best method, but I tried to minimize the risk as much as possible.
@@jeremy_rigged understood
Hi Jeremy
Hey Robert!
Is Location the same on 99 Yukon?
I believe this video will be closer to your setup. ua-cam.com/video/nPLcJY9BBhY/v-deo.htmlsi=ICKacSJ4e_rbjozJ
@@jeremy_rigged Thank You
Compatible with z71?
This video would apply to 2nd Generation Tahoe Z-71’s from 2000-2006 model years as well. Thanks for watching!
How did you cut the floor, do I have to worry about spark?
I used a pneumatic nibbler, however I have done this with an angle grinder before... and admittedly it’s not the safest or recommended technique, but it can be done providing there’s no leaks leaks or vapor.
@@jeremy_rigged Come on man. I get why you're saying you used an air nibbler but anyone who knows anything about this type of work can clearly see you used an angle grinder with a thin cutoff blade. It's clear as day. Using an angle grinder is SUPER DANGEROUS given you really have no idea if there is fuel vapor present before you start cutting.
Is this a suburban or Tahoe I believe the suburban access would be further back and easier
ua-cam.com/video/kipGehfsLd8/v-deo.html
Did you cut one of the bolts that hold the seat down? The taped part earlier in the video and then the after shot with the license plate appears like you cut the bolt?
The bolt that was cut was used for storing the jack and lug wrench… no seat bolts were cut.
Helpful video but please do not mutter when you create audio for your videos, folks!
I've been cutting holes for years ever since the parts store sold me 2 pumps on a row that were wrong size and I'm using every swear word in the world dropping the gas tank again and again.
I try to use only OEM or Bosch. My 05 suburban I was broke so I got a used OEM has been working just grate 4 years.
Heads up on the tank mounting brackets on chevy go bad from rust.
Caution don't use a grinder it can ignite gas fumes.
It's sad that Chevy/GM didn't put an access panel above the fuel pump location in the Suburban/Tahoe. My 2001 Cadillac DTS has an an easily accessible fuel pump access panel located in the trunk that makes fuel pump replacement relatively easy.
I agree… my 1987 VW Cabriolet has an access panel under the rear seat… literally takes 15 minutes to swap a pump. (I carry a spare and the two tools needed to change it in the glove box…)
Ib mekanix ind ididit dis way. My car my decision. Your car i drop the tank and charge for the bolts that sheer and the missing strap.
Video is kinda vague .. you don’t demonstrate how you took certains on or off but over all I got an idea on how
Did this on my Winnebago and it turns out the pump is right below a crossbeam!
Had to drop the 90 gallon tank anyway. :(
It’s funny that you say this because the same thing happened with me on my 1992 Travel Craft Ford body Class C RV... it was like they carefully planned it that way. :D Thanks for the comment!
@@jeremy_rigged :)
What did he use to cut the floor with?
Wish you showed the connector with wire color needed to see where they went 😢
Trans Am Life… the pump I bought was a direct match wire color for wire color.. you just snipped off the OEM connector and splice the new one on wire color to wire color.
My lock ring refuses to budge. Probably just gonna drill holes in it and break it
That’s basically what I had to do… I was able to weaken mine a bit by prying around the edges like a paint can, and then it broke loose.
Seems like more work