If it hasn't been said, your issue is not the Bar. The issue is repeated use of the Sharpening feature and no manual correction to the Blade. The low profile chain uses a bump link in front of each Cutter link. That bump sets the cutting depth to reduce kickback and control Chip size. *Every time the Chain is sharpened with the Built-in sharpener, you are removing material from the top of the Cutter. This reduces the height gap and changes the Chip size. Eventually you are making sawdust, not chips. **When Hand sharpening you remove material from the underside of the cutter tooth, not effecting height.(except for normal ware.) At some point you need to take a File and Top those Bump links to restore the gap between Bump and Cutter height. This will restore Chip size and reduce excessive Sawdust accumulation. Proper chain tension is also key to reducing Dusting by keeping the links running true and level.
Thanks for your comment. What your saying in my mind wont effect the lack of oil releasing to the bar, but rather how you sharpen the chain effects chip size. Oh ok I see, having bigger chips and less saw dust will help not to clog the oil so fast. Yes, I agree that bigger chip size would help. That said I almost never use the sharpening feature anyways. I'll hit a nail in the wood and just change to a new chain. City wood is annoying! metal detector is helping.
@@Jasonsdesignshop If you re doing a lot of board cuts you may want to run a semi or full chisel Chain to increase chip out. I have always hand sharpened, but still File the bump links every 2nd sharpening. 3 Passes is usually enough.
I'm the relic who reads manuals, Oregons claim that curvature of stone adjusts The Bump too but chain tension might help with my gas saw problem thank you!
@@crxess Ripping into end grain you're not going to get chips no matter what kind of chainsaw set-up you have, are you? I think if you cross-cut with a sharp saw you should get chips; if you rip into side grain you'll get "noodles"; and if you rip into end grain (like with any Alaska chainsaw mill type set-up) you're inevitably going to just get dust.
Thank you for the video. Mine worked fine through the first four cords. I was using a synthetic bar oil. Switched to the Oregon bar oil and started having trouble, though it took quite awhile to deduce the problem, including looking at this video. Switched back to the synthetic oil. So far so good.
Thanks for information, sound like when milling to use an auxiliary oiler and not worry about it. On The Ironhorse channel he advised to open up the oiler hole on the bar. That’s how the older chainsaw bars used to be made.
You can see at 13:50 where vibration is causing your chain to lose tension, hence the sloppy chain at the end of your test. I guess the black inner knob needed to be turned clockwise to lock the outer tension ring in place.
That's a first class video. I bought this saw end of last year and could not work out why the chain was not getting oiled. It does seem to be a very poor design for oil and I have heard that the oil cap needs to have some ventilation when closed otherwise there is a vacuum and the oil does not run easily. |Not all homes have an air compressor but I manage with a compressed air bottle, which you could take on site. Great work and thanks so much for making such a good video. I'm in the UK
Thanks for the like and positive words. It is for some reason my best video. I need to do more reviews of the tools I use. I wanted to say your thought of a a looser cap to let air in behind the oil going out is so simple its genius. No one has ever mentioned that idea in the comments. You will just have to keep it upright to avoid it dripping out. Going to mess with this idea next time I use the saw. Thanks! Happy cutting.
Just ordered one this week, so your video was extremely helpful. The bar oiling design is poorly thought out, the non-vented cap seems a little shaky as well. Every other aspect of the saw's design is well done, but the lubrication system is not up to snuff.
Great videos and comments. Thank you! Just got mine and did quite a few firewood cuts. So far so good. But my saw has little hole in chain oil cap and looks like some vacuum lock prevention mechanism on the bottom I figure to avoid leakage. You use your saw horizontally which could be an issue. Other than that, I knew it was heavy for electric but makes chips much bigger than my gas saws did but kick back rather surprised me with its strength.
Check out my one year review video to get a positive perspective on the saw. Click the link above. This video is more for those who have bought the saw and are struggling with some of it's issues. But it's also good info to know before you buy I suppose. Subscribe and click the thumbs up and bell notifications to avoid missing the latest video. Hope all this add free video work is helpful friends. Happy cutting!
Mine arrived today. The fact that on one from "Oregon" support/service has replied to any of the comments on these videos has made me reach a decision. I am sending mine back to Amazon,and ordering a WorkX, or something else. I have a great personal disdain for companies that do not interact with these product videos.
That a good point. Ya I have never heard Oregon comment on any UA-cam video about their products. I have a video I posted on installing siding ( cement board) and before I had 200 views the company found my video and made a great comment and answered questions. I would love to see more of that but every company makes their choice to invest in managing social media or not.
I ordered one from Home Depot and have just tried it out. Cuts great but I am also having an oiling problem. After seeing everything that has to be done here, I think I'm doing the same. Returning to Home Depot. I wonder if the Black and Decker CS1518 18" electric will have the same issue. I saw a comment on the Home Depot site someone thinks they are built by the same folks. If the oiler design is the same, then that's a no go as well.
My man. Thank you for speaking up. Sadly Makita is the same way. I can’t even find a replacement blade. So as good as their tools are. I may be cheaping out until further notice. 😂
I am considering a corded saw. Thanks for you input here. I mill with a home made rig. Ripping dust is like flour and it gets every where. I keep an oil can on the rig and give the bar a squirt from time to time No need for a fancy set up. I would not use that auto sharpen feature. Sears had that years ago. Yuck. Good luck with the cherry! Chris
@@Jasonsdesignshop In the end I went Makita, (on the way) even tho the toolless bar looks like a toy. It has a chain break. Flame maple is a challenge. Ash became a favorite. The set up is not bad for a first try. It needed counter weight. The big grief is where exhaust gases go. My big saw is only 60cc. 80 would be better. Good luck Chris
Where the oil comes out it has a rubber surround and the hole in the round tensioner wheel has a rubber seal.To get to the seal unscrew the screw holding the tensioner wheel on and see if the round seal/o ring is perished or missing?.
Excellent video. Actually, was looking for how to replace chain (manual was not clear to me) since it threw the chain after about 10 minuets of use right out of the box. Other people have commented about the chain jumping issue and now this saw apparently has an issue with oiling as well.
Just after my comment, continued to watch video and he explains exactly why chain jumps because of the 2 part process needed to tension and lock the chain. This video has saved me a lot of time and effort getting this saw to work properly for me. Great job, Jason!
I have another comment re you awesome log cutter. Why not mount your own oil bottle on the framework with tubing and using fishtanks air hose and a valve allow oil to drip onto the chain links. You could drill a small accurate hole in the housing by the drive gear and allow gravity to assist in lubricating the chain. Food for thought!
Yes if I was cutting more often maybe it might justify the effort to build such a system. One major issue with that is your doing it so you dot have to stop on a long rip cut but the motor is to week and might over heat and bun up if you don’t keep stopping. And having to add oil facilitates that stopping. A thought.
If you're milling a lot with that saw there's 3 things to do there. Add a brush on the bottom of the jig to block the dust, add an external bar oil drip that is sideways with the jig. both of those are very easy additions. last one is add an air blower internally which is more difficult than the other two combined.
Do you have an image you can link me to showing an external oil drip with a milling jig situation? Struggling to visualize how that would work. Thanks for your ideas!
@@Jasonsdesignshop like we do for milling machines ua-cam.com/video/wdMFZNjxbnM/v-deo.html there are a lot of videos. I was thinking since your saw is horizontal, you can basically just put the drip nozzle right where the chain leaves the machine which is where the current oil is "supposed" to go but it gets clogged. If it is external it can't get clogged at least. basically just attach the drip thing to your saw's motor cage on the jig above it or something was my idea at 25:42 of your video is my best view of your jig so it isn't good view. But where the bar says "U.S.A." in white letters on the black bar.. you could put the container of oil there then have the tube go into the chain like in the video I linked
@@gg-gn3re Cool Jig for the oil drip. And I see the dripper cold pass between the saw and the Milling Jig. Ok this gets me thinking. Now I can come up with an external oil drip and test it and if it works Il'l make a video to share and help solve this common issue. Thanks for you insight and getting my brain to see the possibilities. The challenge is on.. once I finish the next three projects. LOL
@@Jasonsdesignshop lol yea gotta add it to the good ol' projects list.. hope it helps you. I think it's impossible to get clogged in this way so at least it should work
Thanks just bought mine . no oil came with it. Will try a gas chainsaw oil . Video was great makes it easier since I hate instruction manuals . Why read when you can kick back and watch TV.
Cheers man, I had the same issue. You didn't mention the rubber seal for the oil to bar. 09:31 mins in your video. Can that be replaced as mine was distorted.
Oh ya I notice mine is saying and distorted too. Going to have to look into how I might replace that little seal. They make replacements kits for the sharpening stone but never seen one including that seal. Might be a challenge and have to get creative. When the heat brakes I’m going to carve another bear so I’ll look into it then and report back to this thread. If anyone fines a link for that part post it here. Happy cutting!
I had a same problem few months ago. Additional problem is that I live in Serbia. But, you can not buy that seal alone, only with whole plate replacement. And here I could not even buy that :) So I tried local service and representative, and got reply to make it myself??? After that I contacted Oregon directly trough US/international web page. They replayed (few days later) that they will send part to my country, and for me to wait a call from local dealer. After some time (quite a bit, but this was during corona outbreak, so oversea shipping was.... well, not good) I got that call. They just asked do I want them to send seal to me directly, or to local service. Since saw was in service shop anyway (trouble with oil pump line, but that is separate horror story, not directly related to Orion product quality, but to quality of my local repair service) they send it there, and it was installed. There was no charge, but saw was still under warranty.
Interesting observations. I assumed bar oils were all the same . Something for me to look at when I buy my next bottle. I’ll look for something thinner. Maybe it will help. Thanks for the insight.
I think you should check your oil viscosity and linked it to the weather. Some are made for winter or summer, which might resolve your current issue with thinner oil. Plus you should get the Oregon oil to see if you have got any differences, because I think yours is too sticky.
Did the OREGON oil make any difference to the problem of clogging? I've just got one of these saws and I'm looking for advice on what oil to get . I have oil for my two stroke chainsaw but I don't want to put it in this one if it's going to cause issues with clogging. Great video! Very helpful 👌
@@ted2100 I have used the OREGON and oil that I use in my two stroke and have had no clogging problems. I clean the bar and chain well after each use and that may have helped.
I’ve seen other people mount a container of lower cost and thinner oil on the frame of their guide and have it fed through a tube that drips on the end of the bar. Haven’t tried it myself yet but want to!
I wish I would’ve seen your video earlier. My CS 1500 now has a motor that smokes without the chain installed. Oregon does not seem to want to talk to me or answer my email explaining issues that I’ve had. Do you have any suggestions on how I can get in contact with him and actually get results?
Oh no your motor burned up too. Boy, I dealt with mine two or three years ago. I think I did it all online. Once I filled out their online form and sent them the saw and they checked it out. we went back and forth with email. Then they finally replace it. Maybe their customer service is getting worse I’ll go to website see what I can find out.
Good question! Im not sure. I tried to find a dime tip bar for carving but could not find one without doing custom work to make one. My short answer is no I have not found other length bars for the cs1500 (from the manufacture). I think They don't want you to mess with the engineering and then ask for a fix or replacement when it over stresses the little motor and breaks. Let me know it you find one!
Oh that’s not right. Is it peeking g out the cap area or the chain. If cap check that there is a black o ring in the bottom of the cap. If bar tighten the bar,not the chain. If it’s loose is could be draining after each use. Happy cutting!
Does anyone know if this oil problem happens on the CS1400? I was going to purchase one but will rethink if it has this issue. Any replies would be most appreciated, many thanks.
Yes, I have the CS1400 and it has the same issue. The auto- sharpener sounded like a semi- functional gimmick and sharpening a chain is a worthwhile and accessible skill. I love everything else about the saw so I hope I can solve the bar oil issue.
This saw seems to be to much of a hassle to keep it operational even though the price is cheap. Can anyone recommend what the best overall corded electric saw is ?? Thanks for such a super detailed video of this saw.
Actually, for regular cutting this is my favorite saw. I am now on my third one. Its a little work horse. All the issues I run into are when trying to mill slabs. Also Most of the others are only 14-16 ". The Dewalt DWCS 600 has a corded 18" but it's almost $30 more. you could research that one and if you get a one or something else let us know what you think of it after some use. Having some options to recommend would be helpful. Thanks.
Bought this assembled correctly and cuts small stuff great- however - when I try to cut through anything bigger it pulls to the right and I dont get a straight cut. I do wood turning so bought this to cut logs really to turn on the lathe. I'm wasting good wood trying to get a straight cut. Cant be the teeth are blunt or bar worn as its just new, not been dropped or misused, oil gets in fine, tension is as should be...anyone any ideas what to do please?
So it curves to the right as you cut? That's a new one. I use mine to carve and when trying to curve the cut I have to twist the body pretty hard o get any result as the with of the flat bar prevents a curved cut. Strange! ya, thoughts anyone?
@@Jasonsdesignshop Yeah It starts out looking okay then pulls to the right as I go..there is no way to stop it i've tried various attempts. Other vids point to the teeth not sharpened right, bar guide worn or bent. Its just new so cant see that - might have to find a service station and hand it in.
@@HoosierNewman it has the feed the top of the bar. If they send it to the bottom of the bar the chain is on return and leaves the bar to go around the sprocket thus all the oil would fly off.
This was years 2018-2020. Reading the comments it sounds like the same issue continues. Read the comments for this video and the origin review as there are all kinds of ideas being offered by the viewers. The one working for me is the leave the a little cap loose so air can enter behind the oil leaving to the chain. Second prime the oil before starting to cut. So just run it until oil is flowing ( with a clean bar) before cutting and getting dust blocking the hole.
Soak a cigarette filter with oil, and then stick it in the hole. It will prevent dust from accumulating in the spot, and work as a wick for the oil, allowing it to get in contact with the blade. Try it out. Let me know if it works for you.
@@Craig419 sadly no. Done slabbing the cherry tree. Have a big log to carve another bear but not it gotten to cold so work very long outside. Looking to spring to start again.
I don't know what your doing wrong. Getting all that dust. My saw doesn't produce any dust, just chips and slivers. Your saws running as if it's a grinder. My saw cuts the wood, not grinding like yours appears to be. We can't even get our vacuum cleaner to clean up as the slivers and chips cloggs the hose. I worked in a cabinet shop as th emaintanice man and if I found a saw (any) making light dust like yours is doing it' time to sharpen the blade. I think my saw would clog the oiler if it was putting out that kind of dust. I'm not getting any dust, should only get chips (when bucking) and slivers (when ripping) Your getting dust. Heal of the cutter is too high, not digging in deep enough. Dust comes from a loose chain as the tooth will bend back and the depth of cut will be too slight, making dust not cutting. Under where you have been cutting is just dust, no chips or slivers. Very dull or depth set too slight. Watch a lumberjack cutting in the woods. There is no dust at all, just chips.
Thanks for your thoughts. You open my eyes to the result of a loose chain causing the teeth to lean back and not get a full bite thus making dust! I find I only make dust when rip cutting and the blade is getting dull and the wood is dry and hard like the cherry wood I was milling back then. When you get it all tuned right it cutes nice slivers. Thanks again, good points.
Note that I read you can't use the chain sharpener on non- Oregon CS-1500 saws. It's a special chain that comes with a new sharpen stone. Other 18" chains will work but will need to be sharpened by hand. BTW. just got mine and used today for 1st time. Very impressed so far. Cuts hard maple like butter!
Hi, complete newbie here, tons of woodworking experience but no chainsaw exp. Really wondering if you have tried the thinner oil and if it helped. I'm thinking this would be a good saw to learn with but some of the design problems are daunting. Maybe a lighter 16 inch would be better to learn with? TIA any input is much appreciated.
Ps. Someone should hire you to test and consult on the designing of chainsaws your videos are awesome and actually giving me the confidence to try this so thanks again
@@sammccool5480 Hy, greatings from Croatia, I have recently started helping more around family farm, needed to cut some old death trees for removal and firewood, so needed to use saw, didn't want to use old banged gas saw, that won't start on occasionally when you need them, so used recepricating saw to cut longer chunks that I could transport, and than used old corded black decker chain saw to firewood size. Now in progress of buying new saw, for electric you want chain speed since most of cutting is done that way, and if you give electric saw to people that are used to gas they bog them down since they are used to push the saw and then the gas powered motor plows through. On electric saws you want to apply gentle push only so that chainsaw is going through wood. Depending what you want to do even cordless could be option I'm looking at Makita, since it is basically as powerful as regular farmer saw with no maintenance other than toping up batteries, and changing sharpening chain, and ofc refilling oil to cool down chain and bar, but best part it starts when you need them. Bonus points are no vibrations and smell of gas, has adustible oil valve, and if you are novice should like variable trigger, it starts to spin chain proportional to how you squeeze the "gas" power. As of bar length the shorter it is less expensive the chain should be, if you can get the most common in your area, the longer the bar is you will need to move less with your body so to speak, since you have longer reach, but in general you want to avoid using tip to prevent kick back. And last tip if you decide to go battery or cordless keep in mind that weight is not that of issues as it's center or location is, most professional saws are quiet heavy but since they are gas powered the block is kinda balanced as it is squared, while on electric you have motor sticking on one side and kinda feels it wants to rotate, while on some battery powered it is also weird, you can get belt or backpack battery power source adapters to make them light but with slight secrefice in their advantage of no kords. From my research Makita 353 or 355 , don't know the us model since they use same saw just marked with X instead Du(Europe, Australia asia)seams to be best buy, battery are cheap and readily available since they are used in most powertools, while you would get slightly better saw from eco or husgwarna, Stihl, the battery are more expensive and would you be able to get new ones in like 5 to 6 years when they change models.... Hope it helps
@@mkapo8509 thank you that is very helpful information and I like the idea of the battery with an adapter to carry on my back weight is a big factor for me thank you so much
No I have not tried a thinner oil. I have only found one viscosity at my local hardware store for chainsaws. But that’s an interesting idea to play around with. Welcome to the channel.
The lock knob can get loose, even locked! If it bump against the log. That the issue i have with the dogs! The dogs needs to be at less 2" long! 3 or 4 " long would be GREAT
The last cherry log I did had parts that were 18 in! But I had to stop for 5 min every 6 in. Oil not slowing so need to keep it cool and not burn up the motor.
That’s and interesting idea. Just get an old fashion oil can that drips out oil in a point. But it might just thought it off and get wiped off with all the saw dust. But worth a try!
@@6whatnext I used my saw to cut up a stump - half buried in the ground. The bar and chain were getting hot so I stopped cutting laid the saw on its side; poured a little oil on the bar; tilted it so it spread along the length of the bar some then turned the saw upright so the oil ran into the chain. Not a long term fix, but it definately made a difference. I kept doing this every few minutes until I finished and it worked okay.
Just got the saw. The little bottle of chain oil that came with it was so thin! Thinner than motor oil! Real Bar & Chain Oil is like syrup compared to what it came with. I'm wondering if I'll need to dilute real bar oil with mineral sprits. WTF ?
Wow that’s interesting. I wonder if they are trying to solve some of the complaints that the oil stops flowing and the bar overheats by thinning the oil so it can flow faster. But that only works for the bottle they gave you. Unless you thin it as you said. I would not bother. Try this first if it heats up. loosen the oil cap so air can flow in behind the outgoing oil. As long as I’m cutting vertical it won’t leek. Tighten it to cut the tree down with horizontal cut. Happy cutting.
@@Jasonsdesignshop We will see soon. I've only tested it about a 20 mins with supplied bar oil. Impressive cuts for what I need! I hope it last after using real bar & chain oil. Should be a very handy saw to process firewood compared to a 2cy that needs so much attention. Thanks. I'll keep it in mind to vent the cap.
not sure why your sawdust is so dusty, it should be flakes/slivers of wood, not dust. perhaps you have sharpened the teeth too often but not filed the depth setters
Ya true. I find with this hard cherry wood and when you rip cut them you get smaller flakes. The cutting teeth of a rip chain are square headed unlike the cross cut chains that are pointy and shear the wood so nicely. And finally putting even pressure on the cut is hard when rip cutting.
Try thinner oil as well to make it come out faster and less likely to clog from being so sticky plus your a smart enough guy learn to manually sharpen your own chain you’ll be doing yourself a huge favor. A sharp chain is easy and fast to sharpen and can be done in a lot less time than the time you lose from a dull chain just do your research on sharpening from a good source. You can solve many issues just by knowing when to sharpen how to sharpen based on what your saw dust looks like but it’s super easy and saved a lot of time and money not to mention headache
So true! I pay $7 to have a chain sharpened at a shop near by. After struggling to do it by hand with a little round file with no success I gave up and took it to the pros. But ya I should get a sharpening jig (any suggestions?) and just do it myself at this point. Often I hit a nail and they get destroyed before I ever need to sharpen them. But I have two now I could practice on. Thanks for the challenge I really should have that skill in my tool bag. Happy cutting!
1st of all! It don't pull you away from things your sawing. It pulls you to it! Idk what your talking about. There is no revers on it. Unless you got the chain on backwards
I own this saw and have the problem. DO NOT BUY THIS SAW. It clogs up instantly...is totally worthless. Gonna go see what Stihl or Husqvarna has to offer. The plastic body also melted where the motor passes through to the chain cog, and now it's skewed. I'll keep manually oiling the chain, til I get a replacement, and otherwise it's a good saw, but the oil issue is a total no-go.
Some of us don't have an extra 100 to throw away on a saw each time one clogs up. Maybe you do, but then why would you even buy a cheap saw if that were the case?
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If it hasn't been said, your issue is not the Bar. The issue is repeated use of the Sharpening feature and no manual correction to the Blade. The low profile chain uses a bump link in front of each Cutter link. That bump sets the cutting depth to reduce kickback and control Chip size.
*Every time the Chain is sharpened with the Built-in sharpener, you are removing material from the top of the Cutter. This reduces the height gap and changes the Chip size. Eventually you are making sawdust, not chips.
**When Hand sharpening you remove material from the underside of the cutter tooth, not effecting height.(except for normal ware.)
At some point you need to take a File and Top those Bump links to restore the gap between Bump and Cutter height. This will restore Chip size and reduce excessive Sawdust accumulation.
Proper chain tension is also key to reducing Dusting by keeping the links running true and level.
Thanks for your comment. What your saying in my mind wont effect the lack of oil releasing to the bar, but rather how you sharpen the chain effects chip size. Oh ok I see, having bigger chips and less saw dust will help not to clog the oil so fast. Yes, I agree that bigger chip size would help. That said I almost never use the sharpening feature anyways. I'll hit a nail in the wood and just change to a new chain. City wood is annoying! metal detector is helping.
@@Jasonsdesignshop If you re doing a lot of board cuts you may want to run a semi or full chisel Chain to increase chip out. I have always hand sharpened, but still File the bump links every 2nd sharpening. 3 Passes is usually enough.
I'm the relic who reads manuals, Oregons claim that curvature of stone adjusts The Bump too but chain tension might help with my gas saw problem thank you!
@@crxess Ripping into end grain you're not going to get chips no matter what kind of chainsaw set-up you have, are you? I think if you cross-cut with a sharp saw you should get chips; if you rip into side grain you'll get "noodles"; and if you rip into end grain (like with any Alaska chainsaw mill type set-up) you're inevitably going to just get dust.
Thank you for the video. Mine worked fine through the first four cords. I was using a synthetic bar oil. Switched to the Oregon bar oil and started having trouble, though it took quite awhile to deduce the problem, including looking at this video. Switched back to the synthetic oil. So far so good.
Going to try a synthetic next time I mill some boards. Thanks for the the insight!
Good to know. I'm almost out of bar oil and have a bunch of cutting to do. Any specific reccomendations for synthetic earls?
Thanks for information, sound like when milling to use an auxiliary oiler and not worry about it. On The Ironhorse channel he advised to open up the oiler hole on the bar. That’s how the older chainsaw bars used to be made.
You can see at 13:50 where vibration is causing your chain to lose tension, hence the sloppy chain at the end of your test. I guess the black inner knob needed to be turned clockwise to lock the outer tension ring in place.
Correct! Nice thing about the saw it’s a fast easy fix.
That's a first class video. I bought this saw end of last year and could not work out why the chain was not getting oiled. It does seem to be a very poor design for oil and I have heard that the oil cap needs to have some ventilation when closed otherwise there is a vacuum and the oil does not run easily. |Not all homes have an air compressor but I manage with a compressed air bottle, which you could take on site. Great work and thanks so much for making such a good video. I'm in the UK
Thanks for the like and positive words. It is for some reason my best video. I need to do more reviews of the tools I use. I wanted to say your thought of a a looser cap to let air in behind the oil going out is so simple its genius. No one has ever mentioned that idea in the comments. You will just have to keep it upright to avoid it dripping out. Going to mess with this idea next time I use the saw. Thanks! Happy cutting.
Just ordered one this week, so your video was extremely helpful. The bar oiling design is poorly thought out, the non-vented cap seems a little shaky as well.
Every other aspect of the saw's design is well done, but the lubrication system is not up to snuff.
Good video,sad quality is gone. The Milwaukee cordless leaks oil and melt or stretch with bar mount plastic hold studs for bar
Great videos and comments. Thank you! Just got mine and did quite a few firewood cuts. So far so good. But my saw has little hole in chain oil cap and looks like some vacuum lock prevention mechanism on the bottom I figure to avoid leakage. You use your saw horizontally which could be an issue. Other than that, I knew it was heavy for electric but makes chips much bigger than my gas saws did but kick back rather surprised me with its strength.
New improved cap! Good to know, thanks! Happy cutting!
Check out my one year review video to get a positive perspective on the saw. Click the link above. This video is more for those who have bought the saw and are struggling with some of it's issues. But it's also good info to know before you buy I suppose. Subscribe and click the thumbs up and bell notifications to avoid missing the latest video. Hope all this add free video work is helpful friends. Happy cutting!
Thanks from the UK for your g8 review, very helpful information 👍👍
Thanks Glad it helped.
Mine arrived today. The fact that on one from "Oregon" support/service has replied to any of the comments on these videos has made me reach a decision. I am sending mine back to Amazon,and ordering a WorkX, or something else. I have a great personal disdain for companies that do not interact with these product videos.
That a good point. Ya I have never heard Oregon comment on any UA-cam video about their products. I have a video I posted on installing siding ( cement board) and before I had 200 views the company found my video and made a great comment and answered questions. I would love to see more of that but every company makes their choice to invest in managing social media or not.
I ordered one from Home Depot and have just tried it out. Cuts great but I am also having an oiling problem. After seeing everything that has to be done here, I think I'm doing the same. Returning to Home Depot. I wonder if the Black and Decker CS1518 18" electric will have the same issue. I saw a comment on the Home Depot site someone thinks they are built by the same folks. If the oiler design is the same, then that's a no go as well.
My man. Thank you for speaking up. Sadly Makita is the same way. I can’t even find a replacement blade. So as good as their tools are. I may be cheaping out until further notice. 😂
I am considering a corded saw.
Thanks for you input here.
I mill with a home made rig.
Ripping dust is like flour and it gets every where.
I keep an oil can on the rig and give the bar a squirt from time to time
No need for a fancy set up.
I would not use that auto sharpen feature.
Sears had that years ago. Yuck.
Good luck with the cherry! Chris
Sounds like a good set up you have. Ya you have to be careful not to use the sharpener on the rip chain! Happy cutting.
@@Jasonsdesignshop In the end I went Makita, (on the way) even tho the toolless bar looks like a toy.
It has a chain break.
Flame maple is a challenge. Ash became a favorite.
The set up is not bad for a first try.
It needed counter weight.
The big grief is where exhaust gases go.
My big saw is only 60cc. 80 would be better.
Good luck Chris
Where the oil comes out it has a rubber surround and the hole in the round tensioner wheel has a rubber seal.To get to the seal unscrew the screw holding the tensioner wheel on and see if the round seal/o ring is perished or missing?.
Excellent video. Actually, was looking for how to replace chain (manual was not clear to me) since it threw the chain after about 10 minuets of use right out of the box. Other people have commented about the chain jumping issue and now this saw apparently has an issue with oiling as well.
Just after my comment, continued to watch video and he explains exactly why chain jumps because of the 2 part process needed to tension and lock the chain. This video has saved me a lot of time and effort getting this saw to work properly for me. Great job, Jason!
The chain jumping is not really an issue once you learn adjust the chain with the red dial and then make it tight so it won’t move.
Happy cutting.
I have another comment re you awesome log cutter. Why not mount your own oil bottle on the framework with tubing and using fishtanks air hose and a valve allow oil to drip onto the chain links. You could drill a small accurate hole in the housing by the drive gear and allow gravity to assist in lubricating the chain. Food for thought!
Yes if I was cutting more often maybe it might justify the effort to build such a system. One major issue with that is your doing it so you dot have to stop on a long rip cut but the motor is to week and might over heat and bun up if you don’t keep stopping. And having to add oil facilitates that stopping. A thought.
If you're milling a lot with that saw there's 3 things to do there. Add a brush on the bottom of the jig to block the dust, add an external bar oil drip that is sideways with the jig. both of those are very easy additions. last one is add an air blower internally which is more difficult than the other two combined.
Do you have an image you can link me to showing an external oil drip with a milling jig situation? Struggling to visualize how that would work. Thanks for your ideas!
@@Jasonsdesignshop like we do for milling machines ua-cam.com/video/wdMFZNjxbnM/v-deo.html
there are a lot of videos. I was thinking since your saw is horizontal, you can basically just put the drip nozzle right where the chain leaves the machine which is where the current oil is "supposed" to go but it gets clogged. If it is external it can't get clogged at least.
basically just attach the drip thing to your saw's motor cage on the jig above it or something was my idea
at 25:42 of your video is my best view of your jig so it isn't good view. But where the bar says "U.S.A." in white letters on the black bar.. you could put the container of oil there then have the tube go into the chain like in the video I linked
@@gg-gn3re Cool Jig for the oil drip. And I see the dripper cold pass between the saw and the Milling Jig. Ok this gets me thinking. Now I can come up with an external oil drip and test it and if it works Il'l make a video to share and help solve this common issue. Thanks for you insight and getting my brain to see the possibilities. The challenge is on.. once I finish the next three projects. LOL
@@Jasonsdesignshop lol yea gotta add it to the good ol' projects list.. hope it helps you. I think it's impossible to get clogged in this way so at least it should work
Thank you for posting this detailed helpful video:)
Thanks just bought mine . no oil came with it. Will try a gas chainsaw oil . Video was great makes it easier since I hate instruction manuals . Why read when you can kick back and watch TV.
Thanks! I think we all do the same thing these days. Happy cutting.
Thanks. Mine comes in this week.
Cheers man, I had the same issue. You didn't mention the rubber seal for the oil to bar. 09:31 mins in your video. Can that be replaced as mine was distorted.
Oh ya I notice mine is saying and distorted too. Going to have to look into how I might replace that little seal. They make replacements kits for the sharpening stone but never seen one including that seal. Might be a challenge and have to get creative. When the heat brakes I’m going to carve another bear so I’ll look into it then and report back to this thread. If anyone fines a link for that part post it here.
Happy cutting!
I had a same problem few months ago. Additional problem is that I live in Serbia. But, you can not buy that seal alone, only with whole plate replacement. And here I could not even buy that :) So I tried local service and representative, and got reply to make it myself???
After that I contacted Oregon directly trough US/international web page. They replayed (few days later) that they will send part to my country, and for me to wait a call from local dealer. After some time (quite a bit, but this was during corona outbreak, so oversea shipping was.... well, not good) I got that call. They just asked do I want them to send seal to me directly, or to local service. Since saw was in service shop anyway (trouble with oil pump line, but that is separate horror story, not directly related to Orion product quality, but to quality of my local repair service) they send it there, and it was installed. There was no charge, but saw was still under warranty.
I noticed that the Oregon oil that came with the same is quite a bit thinner than other brands. Could that be a causing the clogging problem?
Interesting observations. I assumed bar oils were all the same . Something for me to look at when I buy my next bottle. I’ll look for something thinner. Maybe it will help. Thanks for the insight.
I think you should check your oil viscosity and linked it to the weather. Some are made for winter or summer, which might resolve your current issue with thinner oil. Plus you should get the Oregon oil to see if you have got any differences, because I think yours is too sticky.
@@lucasclemenceau301 Yes true, and I'm almost out so a thiner viscosity is up next.
Did the OREGON oil make any difference to the problem of clogging? I've just got one of these saws and I'm looking for advice on what oil to get . I have oil for my two stroke chainsaw but I don't want to put it in this one if it's going to cause issues with clogging. Great video! Very helpful 👌
@@ted2100 I have used the OREGON and oil that I use in my two stroke and have had no clogging problems. I clean the bar and chain well after each use and that may have helped.
Thank you very much for such detailed reviews. Top man,
Hope it helps.
I’ve seen other people mount a container of lower cost and thinner oil on the frame of their guide and have it fed through a tube that drips on the end of the bar. Haven’t tried it myself yet but want to!
Not a solution to an actual Chain problem.
I wish I would’ve seen your video earlier. My CS 1500 now has a motor that smokes without the chain installed. Oregon does not seem to want to talk to me or answer my email explaining issues that I’ve had. Do you have any suggestions on how I can get in contact with him and actually get results?
Oh no your motor burned up too. Boy, I dealt with mine two or three years ago. I think I did it all online. Once I filled out their online form and sent them the saw and they checked it out. we went back and forth with email. Then they finally replace it. Maybe their customer service is getting worse I’ll go to website see what I can find out.
Question - I have this 18 inch Oregon CS1500 Chain saw. Can replace it's 18 inch blade with 24 inch or larger?
Good question! Im not sure. I tried to find a dime tip bar for carving but could not find one without doing custom work to make one. My short answer is no I have not found other length bars for the cs1500 (from the manufacture). I think They don't want you to mess with the engineering and then ask for a fix or replacement when it over stresses the little motor and breaks. Let me know it you find one!
No adjustment on the oil application??? Spent 25 minites trying to find it.
No. It's either flowing or not flowing. Hopefully flowing at the full amount.
Mine leaks oil all over the place. I wonder if it builds up somewhere when that passage is clogged. I have to permanently store it on cardboard.
Oh that’s not right. Is it peeking g out the cap area or the chain. If cap check that there is a black o ring in the bottom of the cap. If bar tighten the bar,not the chain. If it’s loose is could be draining after each use.
Happy cutting!
Does anyone know if this oil problem happens on the CS1400? I was going to purchase one but will rethink if it has this issue. Any replies would be most appreciated, many thanks.
Good question anyone know?
Yes, I have the CS1400 and it has the same issue. The auto- sharpener sounded like a semi- functional gimmick and sharpening a chain is a worthwhile and accessible skill. I love everything else about the saw so I hope I can solve the bar oil issue.
Thanks for the video on this.
Does anyone have a suggestion for an alternative electric corded saw for milling?
Sorry I don’t. I’m committed with three of these cs1500s now.
This saw seems to be to much of a hassle to keep it operational even though the price is cheap. Can anyone recommend what the best overall corded electric saw is ?? Thanks for such a super detailed video of this saw.
Actually, for regular cutting this is my favorite saw. I am now on my third one. Its a little work horse. All the issues I run into are when trying to mill slabs. Also Most of the others are only 14-16 ". The Dewalt DWCS 600 has a corded 18" but it's almost $30 more. you could research that one and if you get a one or something else let us know what you think of it after some use. Having some options to recommend would be helpful.
Thanks.
The only issue i have about the CS 1500 is the dogs are not long enough. They only bite in the bark a little bit. That the only issue i have
Hello, can you please tell me if this oil problem happens on the CS1400?
Sorry I didn’t know anything about the car 1400.
Bought this assembled correctly and cuts small stuff great- however - when I try to cut through anything bigger it pulls to the right and I dont get a straight cut. I do wood turning so bought this to cut logs really to turn on the lathe. I'm wasting good wood trying to get a straight cut. Cant be the teeth are blunt or bar worn as its just new, not been dropped or misused, oil gets in fine, tension is as should be...anyone any ideas what to do please?
So it curves to the right as you cut? That's a new one. I use mine to carve and when trying to curve the cut I have to twist the body pretty hard o get any result as the with of the flat bar prevents a curved cut. Strange! ya, thoughts anyone?
@@Jasonsdesignshop Yeah It starts out looking okay then pulls to the right as I go..there is no way to stop it i've tried various attempts. Other vids point to the teeth not sharpened right, bar guide worn or bent. Its just new so cant see that - might have to find a service station and hand it in.
@@BarryM60 Mine does it too.
@@sirensynapse5603 I think I may have to put into a chain saw service agent locally. Sadly by the time I found this out the warranty was passed.
Don't know why they didn't make the oil feed hole on a lower slot an allow gravity feed the channel
@@HoosierNewman it has the feed the top of the bar. If they send it to the bottom of the bar the chain is on return and leaves the bar to go around the sprocket thus all the oil would fly off.
Is this different for different years of saws new or older? and any other solutions or ideas?
This was years 2018-2020. Reading the comments it sounds like the same issue continues. Read the comments for this video and the origin review as there are all kinds of ideas being offered by the viewers. The one working for me is the leave the a little cap loose so air can enter behind the oil leaving to the chain. Second prime the oil before starting to cut. So just run it until oil is flowing ( with a clean bar) before cutting and getting dust blocking the hole.
Soak a cigarette filter with oil, and then stick it in the hole. It will prevent dust from accumulating in the spot, and work as a wick for the oil, allowing it to get in contact with the blade.
Try it out. Let me know if it works for you.
Oh this is interesting! Thanks will try.
@@Jasonsdesignshop Have you had a chance to try this? If so, did it work when slabbing?
@@Craig419 sadly no. Done slabbing the cherry tree. Have a big log to carve another bear but not it gotten to cold so work very long outside. Looking to spring to start again.
I guess I'll have to start smoking.
I don't know what your doing wrong. Getting all that dust. My saw doesn't produce any dust, just chips and slivers. Your saws running as if it's a grinder. My saw cuts the wood, not grinding like yours appears to be. We can't even get our vacuum cleaner to clean up as the slivers and chips cloggs the hose. I worked in a cabinet shop as th emaintanice man and if I found a saw (any) making light dust like yours is doing it' time to sharpen the blade. I think my saw would clog the oiler if it was putting out that kind of dust. I'm not getting any dust, should only get chips (when bucking) and slivers (when ripping) Your getting dust. Heal of the cutter is too high, not digging in deep enough. Dust comes from a loose chain as the tooth will bend back and the depth of cut will be too slight, making dust not cutting. Under where you have been cutting is just dust, no chips or slivers. Very dull or depth set too slight. Watch a lumberjack cutting in the woods. There is no dust at all, just chips.
Thanks for your thoughts. You open my eyes to the result of a loose chain causing the teeth to lean back and not get a full bite thus making dust! I find I only make dust when rip cutting and the blade is getting dull and the wood is dry and hard like the cherry wood I was milling back then. When you get it all tuned right it cutes nice slivers. Thanks again, good points.
does this use some proprietary chain ?
No you can get a new chain on amazon or even home depot carries it sometimes.
Note that I read you can't use the chain sharpener on non- Oregon CS-1500 saws. It's a special chain that comes with a new sharpen stone. Other 18" chains will work but will need to be sharpened by hand. BTW. just got mine and used today for 1st time. Very impressed so far. Cuts hard maple like butter!
great experience
Do you remove the chain each time you use it to prime the oil?
No only if you take it apart to clean it. If it’s not clogged up from the last use you should be good to go. Happy cutting
Hi, complete newbie here, tons of woodworking experience but no chainsaw exp. Really wondering if you have tried the thinner oil and if it helped. I'm thinking this would be a good saw to learn with but some of the design problems are daunting. Maybe a lighter 16 inch would be better to learn with? TIA any input is much appreciated.
Ps. Someone should hire you to test and consult on the designing of chainsaws your videos are awesome and actually giving me the confidence to try this so thanks again
@@sammccool5480 Hy, greatings from Croatia, I have recently started helping more around family farm, needed to cut some old death trees for removal and firewood, so needed to use saw, didn't want to use old banged gas saw, that won't start on occasionally when you need them, so used recepricating saw to cut longer chunks that I could transport, and than used old corded black decker chain saw to firewood size. Now in progress of buying new saw, for electric you want chain speed since most of cutting is done that way, and if you give electric saw to people that are used to gas they bog them down since they are used to push the saw and then the gas powered motor plows through. On electric saws you want to apply gentle push only so that chainsaw is going through wood. Depending what you want to do even cordless could be option I'm looking at Makita, since it is basically as powerful as regular farmer saw with no maintenance other than toping up batteries, and changing sharpening chain, and ofc refilling oil to cool down chain and bar, but best part it starts when you need them. Bonus points are no vibrations and smell of gas, has adustible oil valve, and if you are novice should like variable trigger, it starts to spin chain proportional to how you squeeze the "gas" power. As of bar length the shorter it is less expensive the chain should be, if you can get the most common in your area, the longer the bar is you will need to move less with your body so to speak, since you have longer reach, but in general you want to avoid using tip to prevent kick back. And last tip if you decide to go battery or cordless keep in mind that weight is not that of issues as it's center or location is, most professional saws are quiet heavy but since they are gas powered the block is kinda balanced as it is squared, while on electric you have motor sticking on one side and kinda feels it wants to rotate, while on some battery powered it is also weird, you can get belt or backpack battery power source adapters to make them light but with slight secrefice in their advantage of no kords. From my research Makita 353 or 355 , don't know the us model since they use same saw just marked with X instead Du(Europe, Australia asia)seams to be best buy, battery are cheap and readily available since they are used in most powertools, while you would get slightly better saw from eco or husgwarna, Stihl, the battery are more expensive and would you be able to get new ones in like 5 to 6 years when they change models.... Hope it helps
@@mkapo8509 thank you that is very helpful information and I like the idea of the battery with an adapter to carry on my back weight is a big factor for me thank you so much
@@mkapo8509 wow kapo thanks for that great response. Helping each other is what we do here. Thanks again!
No I have not tried a thinner oil. I have only found one viscosity at my local hardware store for chainsaws. But that’s an interesting idea to play around with. Welcome to the channel.
The lock knob can get loose, even locked! If it bump against the log. That the issue i have with the dogs! The dogs needs to be at less 2" long! 3 or 4 " long would be GREAT
*Use a thinner weight oil like Canola oil.*
What diameter log would be o.k. for milling with this saw?.
The last cherry log I did had parts that were 18 in! But I had to stop for 5 min every 6 in. Oil not slowing so need to keep it cool and not burn up the motor.
Thanks mate.
how the saw works?
Great, I love it! For light use though. If your going to do a lot of cutting get a bigger saw.
Probaly just have to pour/drip oil directly on the chain and bar while you're cutting slabs.
That’s and interesting idea. Just get an old fashion oil can that drips out oil in a point. But it might just thought it off and get wiped off with all the saw dust. But worth a try!
I tried that didn't work really, bar was almost on fire even cutting vertically
@@6whatnext I used my saw to cut up a stump - half buried in the ground. The bar and chain were getting hot so I stopped cutting laid the saw on its side; poured a little oil on the bar; tilted it so it spread along the length of the bar some then turned the saw upright so the oil ran into the chain. Not a long term fix, but it definately made a difference. I kept doing this every few minutes until I finished and it worked okay.
Just got the saw.
The little bottle of chain oil that came with it was so thin! Thinner than motor oil!
Real Bar & Chain Oil is like syrup compared to what it came with.
I'm wondering if I'll need to dilute real bar oil with mineral sprits.
WTF ?
Wow that’s interesting. I wonder if they are trying to solve some of the complaints that the oil stops flowing and the bar overheats by thinning the oil so it can flow faster. But that only works for the bottle they gave you. Unless you thin it as you said. I would not bother. Try this first if it heats up. loosen the oil cap so air can flow in behind the outgoing oil. As long as I’m cutting vertical it won’t leek. Tighten it to cut the tree down with horizontal cut. Happy cutting.
@@Jasonsdesignshop We will see soon. I've only tested it about a 20 mins with supplied bar oil. Impressive cuts for what I need! I hope it last after using real bar & chain oil. Should be a very handy saw to process firewood compared to a 2cy that needs so much attention.
Thanks. I'll keep it in mind to vent the cap.
If you run your chainsaw for a few seconds between cuts it blows the shavings and dust out this is the same with most chainsaws.
You make it sound so easy. Happy cutting!
not sure why your sawdust is so dusty, it should be flakes/slivers of wood, not dust. perhaps you have sharpened the teeth too often but not filed the depth setters
Ya true. I find with this hard cherry wood and when you rip cut them you get smaller flakes. The cutting teeth of a rip chain are square headed unlike the cross cut chains that are pointy and shear the wood so nicely. And finally putting even pressure on the cut is hard when rip cutting.
Try thinner oil as well to make it come out faster and less likely to clog from being so sticky plus your a smart enough guy learn to manually sharpen your own chain you’ll be doing yourself a huge favor. A sharp chain is easy and fast to sharpen and can be done in a lot less time than the time you lose from a dull chain just do your research on sharpening from a good source. You can solve many issues just by knowing when to sharpen how to sharpen based on what your saw dust looks like but it’s super easy and saved a lot of time and money not to mention headache
So true! I pay $7 to have a chain sharpened at a shop near by. After struggling to do it by hand with a little round file with no success I gave up and took it to the pros. But ya I should get a sharpening jig (any suggestions?) and just do it myself at this point. Often I hit a nail and they get destroyed before I ever need to sharpen them. But I have two now I could practice on. Thanks for the challenge I really should have that skill in my tool bag. Happy cutting!
Maybe you’re exceeding the design of the saw by using a light duty chain saw in a milling function
@@williamdougan6421 probably true! But it works for ours use in this fashion.
1st of all! It don't pull you away from things your sawing. It pulls you to it! Idk what your talking about. There is no revers on it. Unless you got the chain on backwards
Just use thinner oil. We do all the time.
What oil weight would you recommend?
We've always used the chain saw oil. It doesn't matter which one in our electric chainsaw. That you have. We just use the winter oil in it year round.
The only problem we had was the tight tensioner. That little nib that's on their broke off and so we had to repair it.
@@tjmark67 Ok thats good to know. Thanks!
I own this saw and have the problem. DO NOT BUY THIS SAW. It clogs up instantly...is totally worthless. Gonna go see what Stihl or Husqvarna has to offer. The plastic body also melted where the motor passes through to the chain cog, and now it's skewed.
I'll keep manually oiling the chain, til I get a replacement, and otherwise it's a good saw, but the oil issue is a total no-go.
Man there 100 dollors all this hasselt get a new one
Some of us don't have an extra 100 to throw away on a saw each time one clogs up. Maybe you do, but then why would you even buy a cheap saw if that were the case?
Chain burn up fast .
It can slowly with hardwoods or fast hitting a nail like I keep doing.