thanks, im glad i could help. Joe's probably one of my fav tuners. i've learned a lot watching him and i can't wait for the training he advertised. if there's anything you're curious on, feel free to ask and i'll try to explain or make a video on it if i know the answer.
This is by far one of the best Holley EFI tuning video I’ve seen for novice like me. The way you put things in layman’s terms, was spot on for me. Thank you for this video. Looking forward for more to come. By the way, I’m tuning a 2007 GMC Yukon, LS 383 Stroker with 102mm TB, 232/234 stage 4 TPS Cam, Progressive Nitrous build.
thank you for the kind words. I'm glad i could help. I'll be getting back into some more videos soon. sounds like a nasty little yukon. sadly i have 0 experience with nitrous.
Thanks for the detailed video. I had the EZ Fast system last year which I could never get to run right. When I saw the info you can see and the ability to tune the Sniper I got one and it needs to be tweaked a little so videos like these really helps.
no problem. ya, i've heard similar about those.. when people ask me why i went holley over those or why i recommend the holley, that's the main answer i give.. capabilities, features, and tuneability. glad the video helped. if you need help with anything or have questions, feel free to ask away. thanks for watching.
thanks. anything particular you want info on? i've been meaning to do another, but been busy with working on my hood for up coming local car event, Cruisin the Coast.
@@callofgeorge man that is so awesome I wish there was a car event around here it's just me and my lonesome car. You sir are very good at explaining Holley EFI I would love to see a video on adjusting fueling when reviewing a data log of a cruise.
yup, no problem. glad it helped. i need to get back to it and make some more on different topics. I've had a few people reach out to me for certain things and I've just been busy with too many other things lately. if you have any recommendations, let me know and i'll try to cover it. thanks for watching.
yup. stock one. mines not quite stock though. i've adjusted some since this video. slowly creeping the timing up in areas.. mine didn't like stock timing map (non-boosted areas).. wanted to ping. so i rolled it back a bit and it was happy.
Great video. Since you’re still learning too (at least at the time it was made) you’re not talking over my head. Random question: how do you make your fuel or spark graph rotate like that?
glad it helped. I'm always learning. even if i get to the point of where I'd consider myself a professional (which im far from), I'd still have things to learn I'm sure. as for your question, you can scroll the mouse wheel to rotate around, but the sliders at the bottom and far right will allow you to rotate each axis. i wish you could press down on middle mount and move like in CAD software.
Thanks for the video. One thing i am currently having a issue with is my AFR spikes to 17+ at times when pushing in the clutch. seems like i need to play with the IAC ramp down but unsure where to start with that.
I'm 99% sure its normal to see it go lean when you let off the gas and clutch to shift as you're no longer feeding fuel from the injectors and your iac is still at its hold position. if its wanting to backfire or stall, you can maybe adjust your iac hold position % down a bit.. on my car its at 15%.
really depends if you had "fuel cut" enabled before they took it out. if it actually functioned correctly. take a datalog and have your tune up while going to the lean areas. what's probably happening is you're hitting areas of the fuel map you wouldn't under normal driving conditions. you can then just enrich those areas a bit and smooth it out.
What about a 440 Dodge? I just purchased a vehicle with the Sniper and it idled at 1000-1100 rpm, advance 20 degrees. I figured out how to reduce those. What adjustments are needed for that? And I added the progressive link. I am not a computer person~~~
i won't be much help there as I've never messed with the dodge stuff. Ford and Chevy is about all i've played around with. is the sniper controlling timing? is it the base model 650 sniper? it should be pretty much the same as factory calls for with idle RPM and timing though. quick googling around it looks like they like about 20* idle with 34* wot. not sure if you have timing control. I'd advise against the progressive linkage. the throttle extensions works much better. also the prog link requires special tuning and just adds more complication to tuning it. about 650-700 is factory idle, but i'd probably keep it closer to 800. and actually 1000 is a good starting point until the fuel is dialed in a bit. if you're not real computer savy you may want to get with someone that is to help you out. i don't say that to be a D, but i find that most people get more frustrated with the PC/software side of things and end up reverting back to carb mainly because they couldn't figure out how or what to adjust to make it run well. if you're determined to do it yourself though, watch a lot of videos and read the instructions manual all the way through. it's the only way you'll have a full understanding of things. you also may be able to find someone on the holley sniper facebook page that has a similar setup that can help with settings.
So I’ve just gotten into tuning and what not so I’m a bit clueless. I just dropped a 350 sbc into my 91 land cruiser and have put about 1k miles on it. Still doing the self learn stuff but I do daily drive it. I’ve noticed that my fuel economy is horrendous and wanted to learn to how change it a bit to help. When I’m cruising down the highway at 75 mph I’m at about 2200rpm and 30% throttle. I’ve got my cruise afr set to like 14.5 but any time I go over 14% tps the afr target tanks to 12. I was wondering if there’s an easy way to change that. I’m still working my way through the vid so you may mention it
most likely you need to go into the software and configure a 2d afr table. I'm guessing you're using the basic afr settings from the handheld. 30% throttle seems like quite a bit for cruising. do you have a progressive linkage? using a standard 650 sniper?
it just turns your 1 canbus cable into 2. allows you to run the handheld and usb cable for laptop tuning at the same time. you can get them from holley (kinda pricey), ebay, several other websites if you search "can bus splitter". i got mine from efisystempro. i recommend their site for efi systems, accessories, info, etc.. this is the link to the splitter - www.efisystempro.com/can-bus-y-cable-sniper-terminator-x
Great videos. Helps all if us figure things out much quicker. One question about the help tab that took you straight to the topic you were working on. Tried it with mine and it didn't work. I had to scroll through to find the correct topic. Any idea why mine wouldn't do the same? Thanks
thanks. not sure why it wouldn't. i just tested on my desktop and it took me right to the section every time when i click on the "help?". or close to it at least.. not sure if every section will work for it. you can always hit ctrl+F to do a search though if it doesn't.
First off this TBI is a new experience for me and its like speaking a foreign language, it doesn't help to be computer illiterate either . I think I have it so screwed up I don't know what way to go with it. I have the sniper with the hand held controller. is there a way to format it back to factory setting, so the only thing I would need to do is set up the wizard again. I don't think I will mess with any other parameters after that. I will hope the thing will learn on its own after that.
running the wizard is how you reset it. there's isn't a "factory reset". just rerun the wizard and you should be good to go. just remember, it only learns off the parameters you provide it. so having a decent AFR target and timing settings is somewhat crucial.. and exhaust leaks will give the o2 sensor false readings and make the ECU over fuel the engine. let me know if you need some help and i'll try to give you hand if you want.
@@callofgeorge - So even if I have a stand alone HEI ( no other controllers ), the sniper still needs my timing settings ? From the manual " Idle Timing - 18-34 degrees is typically used at idle " , my idle timing is 10 deg. ( or should be when I get it running ), do I use my actual timing, 18 seems like a lot at idle, not to mention 34. As far as the AFR , I left those settings at the factory preset ( 13.5, 14, 12.5 ). My thought was after some drive miles the computer would work that out. Thanks for your help on this.
@@bowtihi6830 oh, sorry.. i automatically assume everyone's using timing control most of the time. no need to worry about timing settings in wizard if you're using an HEI. set timing as you normally would with a carb. all depends on your engine and what it wants. usually all in timing (wot) for small blocks is about 32-36. as for AFR, again, depends on your engine, but i like to start with around a 14.3-14.5 idle, 14.7-15 cruise, and a 12.5 wot. the ecu will not adjust these settings. it uses these AFR settings to correct your fuel map via the learn table. the learn % is the % its adding or subtracting (if its a negative number) fuel from the fuel table. you'll want to "transfer learn to base" occasionally to let it keep learning if the %'s get high. most wizard tunes are rich, so it should be taking fuel away (negative % learn). if you see it adding a lot of fuel 20% or more, you most likely have an issue or exhaust leak. you're looking for a learn or close loop % of close to + or - 5%. this indicates that your fuel map is pretty good and not much correction is needed.
@@bowtihi6830 sounds like a good day.. i wanted to ride mine today, but between the weather and needing to go pickup another engine, it doesn't look like it'll be happening.
My trucks sometimes shut off when i stomp the gas , will run normal if i stomp the gas while already driving do you know what could be causing this , it has the sniper efi
could be a number of things. if you have timing control, the timing map needs to be manually tuned to run efficiently. the fuel map only learns areas that you drive on, so stomping the gas probably hits areas that aren't learned. then lastly once both of those are done, the acceleration enrichment. data log can help determine these things.
@@callofgeorge damn guess i would have to get someone who really knows what there doing to help me out, ive had the truck almost 2 yrs now and its always seemed to never run 100%
@@OBS-yo5ib ya, if you're not wanting to spend a lot of time learning to tune it yourself, i highly recommend finding a remote tuner to hook you up. you'll enjoy the system soo much more once its got a solid tune on it. try to find one that'll go over it with you as they do it. they can answer some questions along the way and you'll be able to fine tune things after hopefully.
Ok very new to tuning so bare with me.. I started the datalog with the handheld. Took out the card put it in my laptop and it saved as sniper_0001.dl. Now when I open it it only opens up on the datalogger screen but I can't get to the other screen to do base fuel, learn table, and other stuff? How do I get on the other screen?
you'll need to also save your gcf (global config file) from the handheld to the sd card and transfer that to PC as well.. you'll open the datalog which will open the "datalogger" window, then alt tab to the sniper software window and open the config there. then you can overlay them. let me know if you need any other help with it. you can DM me on instagram or my facebook (callof george).
From the Sensor Verification section of the instructions manual (i highly advice reading through this). i edited it a little to include more information. Google is your friend though too. keep your search simple and it'll answer a lot of your questions. it's how i learned. that and youtube. hope this helps. - Engine RPM - (revolutions per minute) This gauge should show “Stall!”, once you begin cranking the engine it will show actual engine RPM - TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - Should read 0-1. Slowly depress the throttle to wide open. It should read between 85 and 100% at wide open throttle. If it does not, please verify your throttle linkage is allowing full travel of the throttle arm. - MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) - Should read from 95-102 with engine off. At high elevations it could read as low as 75. - CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) - reads engine temperature. - IAC (Idle Air Control) Position - See Idle Setting/Throttle Plate Setting section in the instructions manual. should be at 5-10% roughly once engine is over 160*. adjust idle screw to make this % change. - Battery - Will read battery voltage. Should be 12.0 volts minimum. obviously it'll drop when cranking. this value is read off of the pink trigger wire on the sniper and not the main red power feed.
I had an existing tune running for 4 months and then went in the software and changed the target AFR settings by a decent amount. Now it has a very high AFR and on deceleration it shoots up and stalls. Do i need to re-do the fuel map now after changing AFR? Or should i delete the learning % that it did with the old tune first?
so usually i would say make small changes at a time. drive and let it learn, transfer the learn to base table. since you made a drastic change, you may be maxing the learn limits. so you may need to transfer/smooth, and drive some more. I assume you're using the 2d table from the software? you can review the learn table and make sure its not showing blatant signs of false data. huge spikes in select areas and such. what are your AFR settings roughly that you're using? make sure the AFR table has smooth transitions.. don't drop a whole point between cells. and you may have to manually tune decel areas. was it not running well btw with the old tune or what was the reason for the AFR change?
@@callofgeorge Thanks for quick reply. I think you were right on the learn % allowance, mine was set to 20%. Since then I changed to 75% to allow for bigger learning but can dial this down after some time. I have 14.4 idle, 14.4 cruise, 12.5 WOT. I didn't blend AFR table just the default blocky fashion. Idle RPM is 640 and my max range for RPM is 5000 since its a 345 International Scout. Do you transfer entire learn to base? I guess sniper uses a combination of base + learn but by transferring to base i could then lower my learn % threshold. I took a few data logs so i'll overlay those on the fuel map and see how bad it is.
@@BretAskeland ya, the sniper will combine the base fuel table with other modifier including the learn table. the default 50% is ok for initial learning and just transfer after a decent drive (100 miles or so). then you can dial it back. i have mine set differently for different rpm/loads via the software. 640 seems low, but i don't know anything about those engines. you can usually have a leaner cruise than idle, but since you're using the block style or "simple" afr table, i wouldn't play with it too much. i think my idle is around 14.3-5 and cruise is 14.7, but very limited areas. i usually see 14.5 when im cruising for the most part. if you can get on the PC software, its muuuuch better and you'll see quite an improvement by fine tuning the afr table and spark table if you're controlling timing too.
Have you tried lowering your timing and then adjust your IAC valve my Turbo 302 sits around 15 degrees it was around eighteen but I had to lower it 3° just to get IAC to come down some with out moving throttle screw
you set idle timing to what the engine wants. then set iac by adjust idle screw. my iac sits around 6-10'ish. my idle is 850rpm. i have my idle somewhere around 25-30 and with idle timing control its usually around 28.
@@callofgeorge got it I know you know your stuff I thought that high of timing was not normal at idle but I guess I have to get used to not every engine is the Same and you set whatever the engine likes
@@95turbostang21 i don't know everything, but I'm sure trying to learn as much as i can lol. but ya, the factory is usually quite lenient with timing. most advanced the timing from factory with the dizzy anyway. stock 302 can probably do 17-20'ish. and every engine is different and likes different things. which is why i say never use what you see me displaying on your own setups. usually more fuel and less timing if in doubt. if you don't have timing control enabled, definitely don't set your idle timing that high.. when using a vacuum/mech advance it would have to be lower. but a lot of racers actually run a locked out distributor so its always at the set degrees. you just have to play with it.. add some timing around idle and see how it responds. i got loads of throttle response down low when i applied my current map vs the 15* smooth ramp like how the holley efi "build a 2d timing map" video showed..
no, i would dial it back from the default 50% limit though. mainly in specific areas. your vehicle will change over time. climate, parts wearing out, may start to run less efficient, etc. the learn will account for that.. but not only that, you can use the learn table to diagnosis. if suddenly you're seeing huge cliffs, theres a good chance you have an o2 or injector issue. same goes for closed loop. especially at WOT. if your fuel pump starts to die or you lose an injector, the close loop could very well keep your engine from leaning out at WOT. you want to monitor your learn table from time to time. i limit mine to around 15-20% for the most part on learn. closed loop i have limited to about that down low, and allow +% to remain high for WOT.
@@callofgeorge no. I'm not to worried about it rn. I need some help with getting it running. It will start and shut off. It's flooding very bad. I've tried setting up the wizard several different ways. I'm thinking it's injectors or map. When I look at gauges it's showing like 30lb boost and map and reading like 280 with engine off key on
i apologize for the video not being up to your standards. it was made for those that have no clue what they're doing. i jump topics.. add, adhd, w/e you wanna call it.. i squirrel a bit as i think of things to try to make sure i cover allll the info there is (which is a lot if you didn't realize).. if i say maybe or had incomplete info, its because i didn't know and didn't want to give bad info.. that's why the title of the video is "what i've learned"... as for the video on AE, its literally pictured in the video.. type it in.. or google/youtube search exactly what you're looking for.. i typed in "holley efi acceleration enrichment tuning" and it was the first thing that came up.. can't help you if you're too lazy to help yourself man. i've learned quite a bit more since making this.. if you have a question on something, ask.. I'll share what info i know.
I wasn't sure I'd find anyone else as helpful as Joe simpson but you hit some points I think nobody else has. Thank you and I subscribed
thanks, im glad i could help. Joe's probably one of my fav tuners. i've learned a lot watching him and i can't wait for the training he advertised. if there's anything you're curious on, feel free to ask and i'll try to explain or make a video on it if i know the answer.
This is by far one of the best Holley EFI tuning video I’ve seen for novice like me. The way you put things in layman’s terms, was spot on for me. Thank you for this video. Looking forward for more to come. By the way, I’m tuning a 2007 GMC Yukon, LS 383 Stroker with 102mm TB, 232/234 stage 4 TPS Cam, Progressive Nitrous build.
thank you for the kind words. I'm glad i could help. I'll be getting back into some more videos soon. sounds like a nasty little yukon. sadly i have 0 experience with nitrous.
Thanks for the detailed video. I had the EZ Fast system last year which I could never get to run right. When I saw the info you can see and the ability to tune the Sniper I got one and it needs to be tweaked a little so videos like these really helps.
no problem. ya, i've heard similar about those.. when people ask me why i went holley over those or why i recommend the holley, that's the main answer i give.. capabilities, features, and tuneability. glad the video helped. if you need help with anything or have questions, feel free to ask away. thanks for watching.
Please more of the Holley videos Can't Get Enough of them you are very good at explaining things
thanks. anything particular you want info on? i've been meaning to do another, but been busy with working on my hood for up coming local car event, Cruisin the Coast.
@@callofgeorge man that is so awesome I wish there was a car event around here it's just me and my lonesome car. You sir are very good at explaining Holley EFI I would love to see a video on adjusting fueling when reviewing a data log of a cruise.
@@95turbostang21 i'll get a datalog of the next time i take it for a drive and do a video on it.
Nice, thank You for taking g time to make this
yup, no problem. glad it helped. i need to get back to it and make some more on different topics. I've had a few people reach out to me for certain things and I've just been busy with too many other things lately. if you have any recommendations, let me know and i'll try to cover it. thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for doing this video. It helped out so much
A stock 302 Ecu timming in cruise is between 38 to 36 degree timing
yup. stock one. mines not quite stock though. i've adjusted some since this video. slowly creeping the timing up in areas.. mine didn't like stock timing map (non-boosted areas).. wanted to ping. so i rolled it back a bit and it was happy.
Great video. Since you’re still learning too (at least at the time it was made) you’re not talking over my head.
Random question: how do you make your fuel or spark graph rotate like that?
glad it helped. I'm always learning. even if i get to the point of where I'd consider myself a professional (which im far from), I'd still have things to learn I'm sure. as for your question, you can scroll the mouse wheel to rotate around, but the sliders at the bottom and far right will allow you to rotate each axis. i wish you could press down on middle mount and move like in CAD software.
Excellent!!
Do a part 2 for more on data logging ?
I'll try to get another video out soon on this. thanks for watching.
Dude! Brilliant!!!! I actually have a clue what the f*ck I’m looking at now!!
thanks. glad it helped.
Also from Mississippi would like to speak with you sometime on this system
no problem. you can message me via facebook or instagram or send me contact info.
Thanks for the video. One thing i am currently having a issue with is my AFR spikes to 17+ at times when pushing in the clutch. seems like i need to play with the IAC ramp down but unsure where to start with that.
I'm 99% sure its normal to see it go lean when you let off the gas and clutch to shift as you're no longer feeding fuel from the injectors and your iac is still at its hold position. if its wanting to backfire or stall, you can maybe adjust your iac hold position % down a bit.. on my car its at 15%.
really depends if you had "fuel cut" enabled before they took it out. if it actually functioned correctly. take a datalog and have your tune up while going to the lean areas. what's probably happening is you're hitting areas of the fuel map you wouldn't under normal driving conditions. you can then just enrich those areas a bit and smooth it out.
What about a 440 Dodge? I just purchased a vehicle with the Sniper and it idled at 1000-1100 rpm, advance 20 degrees. I figured out how to reduce those. What adjustments are needed for that? And I added the progressive link. I am not a computer person~~~
i won't be much help there as I've never messed with the dodge stuff. Ford and Chevy is about all i've played around with. is the sniper controlling timing? is it the base model 650 sniper? it should be pretty much the same as factory calls for with idle RPM and timing though. quick googling around it looks like they like about 20* idle with 34* wot. not sure if you have timing control. I'd advise against the progressive linkage. the throttle extensions works much better. also the prog link requires special tuning and just adds more complication to tuning it. about 650-700 is factory idle, but i'd probably keep it closer to 800. and actually 1000 is a good starting point until the fuel is dialed in a bit. if you're not real computer savy you may want to get with someone that is to help you out. i don't say that to be a D, but i find that most people get more frustrated with the PC/software side of things and end up reverting back to carb mainly because they couldn't figure out how or what to adjust to make it run well. if you're determined to do it yourself though, watch a lot of videos and read the instructions manual all the way through. it's the only way you'll have a full understanding of things. you also may be able to find someone on the holley sniper facebook page that has a similar setup that can help with settings.
So I’ve just gotten into tuning and what not so I’m a bit clueless. I just dropped a 350 sbc into my 91 land cruiser and have put about 1k miles on it. Still doing the self learn stuff but I do daily drive it. I’ve noticed that my fuel economy is horrendous and wanted to learn to how change it a bit to help. When I’m cruising down the highway at 75 mph I’m at about 2200rpm and 30% throttle. I’ve got my cruise afr set to like 14.5 but any time I go over 14% tps the afr target tanks to 12. I was wondering if there’s an easy way to change that. I’m still working my way through the vid so you may mention it
most likely you need to go into the software and configure a 2d afr table. I'm guessing you're using the basic afr settings from the handheld. 30% throttle seems like quite a bit for cruising. do you have a progressive linkage? using a standard 650 sniper?
How about an explanation of the USB splitter cable, and where to get it.
it just turns your 1 canbus cable into 2. allows you to run the handheld and usb cable for laptop tuning at the same time. you can get them from holley (kinda pricey), ebay, several other websites if you search "can bus splitter". i got mine from efisystempro. i recommend their site for efi systems, accessories, info, etc.. this is the link to the splitter - www.efisystempro.com/can-bus-y-cable-sniper-terminator-x
Great videos. Helps all if us figure things out much quicker. One question about the help tab that took you straight to the topic you were working on. Tried it with mine and it didn't work. I had to scroll through to find the correct topic. Any idea why mine wouldn't do the same? Thanks
thanks. not sure why it wouldn't. i just tested on my desktop and it took me right to the section every time when i click on the "help?". or close to it at least.. not sure if every section will work for it. you can always hit ctrl+F to do a search though if it doesn't.
First off this TBI is a new experience for me and its like speaking a foreign language, it doesn't help to be computer illiterate either . I think I have it so screwed up I don't know what way to go with it. I have the sniper with the hand held controller. is there a way to format it back to factory setting, so the only thing I would need to do is set up the wizard again. I don't think I will mess with any other parameters after that. I will hope the thing will learn on its own after that.
running the wizard is how you reset it. there's isn't a "factory reset". just rerun the wizard and you should be good to go. just remember, it only learns off the parameters you provide it. so having a decent AFR target and timing settings is somewhat crucial.. and exhaust leaks will give the o2 sensor false readings and make the ECU over fuel the engine. let me know if you need some help and i'll try to give you hand if you want.
@@callofgeorge - So even if I have a stand alone HEI ( no other controllers ), the sniper still needs my timing settings ? From the manual " Idle Timing - 18-34 degrees is typically used at idle " , my idle timing is 10 deg. ( or should be when I get it running ), do I use my actual timing, 18 seems like a lot at idle, not to mention 34.
As far as the AFR , I left those settings at the factory preset ( 13.5, 14, 12.5 ). My thought was after some drive miles the computer would work that out.
Thanks for your help on this.
@@bowtihi6830 oh, sorry.. i automatically assume everyone's using timing control most of the time. no need to worry about timing settings in wizard if you're using an HEI. set timing as you normally would with a carb. all depends on your engine and what it wants. usually all in timing (wot) for small blocks is about 32-36. as for AFR, again, depends on your engine, but i like to start with around a 14.3-14.5 idle, 14.7-15 cruise, and a 12.5 wot. the ecu will not adjust these settings. it uses these AFR settings to correct your fuel map via the learn table. the learn % is the % its adding or subtracting (if its a negative number) fuel from the fuel table. you'll want to "transfer learn to base" occasionally to let it keep learning if the %'s get high. most wizard tunes are rich, so it should be taking fuel away (negative % learn). if you see it adding a lot of fuel 20% or more, you most likely have an issue or exhaust leak. you're looking for a learn or close loop % of close to + or - 5%. this indicates that your fuel map is pretty good and not much correction is needed.
@@callofgeorge thanksGeorge, I’ll get out there now and get working. Had to start the day with a motorcycle ride up to Jerome . Stress relief.
@@bowtihi6830 sounds like a good day.. i wanted to ride mine today, but between the weather and needing to go pickup another engine, it doesn't look like it'll be happening.
My trucks sometimes shut off when i stomp the gas , will run normal if i stomp the gas while already driving do you know what could be causing this , it has the sniper efi
could be a number of things. if you have timing control, the timing map needs to be manually tuned to run efficiently. the fuel map only learns areas that you drive on, so stomping the gas probably hits areas that aren't learned. then lastly once both of those are done, the acceleration enrichment. data log can help determine these things.
@@callofgeorge damn guess i would have to get someone who really knows what there doing to help me out, ive had the truck almost 2 yrs now and its always seemed to never run 100%
@@OBS-yo5ib ya, if you're not wanting to spend a lot of time learning to tune it yourself, i highly recommend finding a remote tuner to hook you up. you'll enjoy the system soo much more once its got a solid tune on it. try to find one that'll go over it with you as they do it. they can answer some questions along the way and you'll be able to fine tune things after hopefully.
@@callofgeorge yeah thatll be my best bet thanks
Ok very new to tuning so bare with me.. I started the datalog with the handheld. Took out the card put it in my laptop and it saved as sniper_0001.dl. Now when I open it it only opens up on the datalogger screen but I can't get to the other screen to do base fuel, learn table, and other stuff? How do I get on the other screen?
you'll need to also save your gcf (global config file) from the handheld to the sd card and transfer that to PC as well.. you'll open the datalog which will open the "datalogger" window, then alt tab to the sniper software window and open the config there. then you can overlay them. let me know if you need any other help with it. you can DM me on instagram or my facebook (callof george).
@@callofgeorge thanks that was a big help..now I'm all in.. you should continue doing these, for sure!
@@jasonolds7611 yup, no prob. i plan to do a datalog review sometime soon. lemme know if you wanna see something specific.
What's IAC And the other abbreviations? Please say what they are
From the Sensor Verification section of the instructions manual (i highly advice reading through this). i edited it a little to include more information. Google is your friend though too. keep your search simple and it'll answer a lot of your questions. it's how i learned. that and youtube. hope this helps.
- Engine RPM - (revolutions per minute) This gauge should show “Stall!”, once you begin cranking the engine it will show actual engine RPM
- TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - Should read 0-1. Slowly depress the throttle to wide open. It should read between 85 and 100% at wide open throttle. If it does not, please verify your throttle linkage is allowing full travel of the throttle arm.
- MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) - Should read from 95-102 with engine off. At high elevations it could read as low as 75.
- CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) - reads engine temperature.
- IAC (Idle Air Control) Position - See Idle Setting/Throttle Plate Setting section in the instructions manual. should be at 5-10% roughly once engine is over 160*. adjust idle screw to make this % change.
- Battery - Will read battery voltage. Should be 12.0 volts minimum. obviously it'll drop when cranking. this value is read off of the pink trigger wire on the sniper and not the main red power feed.
I had an existing tune running for 4 months and then went in the software and changed the target AFR settings by a decent amount. Now it has a very high AFR and on deceleration it shoots up and stalls. Do i need to re-do the fuel map now after changing AFR? Or should i delete the learning % that it did with the old tune first?
so usually i would say make small changes at a time. drive and let it learn, transfer the learn to base table. since you made a drastic change, you may be maxing the learn limits. so you may need to transfer/smooth, and drive some more. I assume you're using the 2d table from the software? you can review the learn table and make sure its not showing blatant signs of false data. huge spikes in select areas and such. what are your AFR settings roughly that you're using? make sure the AFR table has smooth transitions.. don't drop a whole point between cells. and you may have to manually tune decel areas. was it not running well btw with the old tune or what was the reason for the AFR change?
@@callofgeorge Thanks for quick reply. I think you were right on the learn % allowance, mine was set to 20%. Since then I changed to 75% to allow for bigger learning but can dial this down after some time. I have 14.4 idle, 14.4 cruise, 12.5 WOT. I didn't blend AFR table just the default blocky fashion. Idle RPM is 640 and my max range for RPM is 5000 since its a 345 International Scout. Do you transfer entire learn to base? I guess sniper uses a combination of base + learn but by transferring to base i could then lower my learn % threshold. I took a few data logs so i'll overlay those on the fuel map and see how bad it is.
@@BretAskeland ya, the sniper will combine the base fuel table with other modifier including the learn table. the default 50% is ok for initial learning and just transfer after a decent drive (100 miles or so). then you can dial it back. i have mine set differently for different rpm/loads via the software. 640 seems low, but i don't know anything about those engines. you can usually have a leaner cruise than idle, but since you're using the block style or "simple" afr table, i wouldn't play with it too much. i think my idle is around 14.3-5 and cruise is 14.7, but very limited areas. i usually see 14.5 when im cruising for the most part. if you can get on the PC software, its muuuuch better and you'll see quite an improvement by fine tuning the afr table and spark table if you're controlling timing too.
Have you tried lowering your timing and then adjust your IAC valve my Turbo 302 sits around 15 degrees it was around eighteen but I had to lower it 3° just to get IAC to come down some with out moving throttle screw
you set idle timing to what the engine wants. then set iac by adjust idle screw. my iac sits around 6-10'ish. my idle is 850rpm. i have my idle somewhere around 25-30 and with idle timing control its usually around 28.
@@callofgeorge got it I know you know your stuff I thought that high of timing was not normal at idle but I guess I have to get used to not every engine is the Same and you set whatever the engine likes
@@95turbostang21 i don't know everything, but I'm sure trying to learn as much as i can lol. but ya, the factory is usually quite lenient with timing. most advanced the timing from factory with the dizzy anyway. stock 302 can probably do 17-20'ish. and every engine is different and likes different things. which is why i say never use what you see me displaying on your own setups. usually more fuel and less timing if in doubt. if you don't have timing control enabled, definitely don't set your idle timing that high.. when using a vacuum/mech advance it would have to be lower. but a lot of racers actually run a locked out distributor so its always at the set degrees. you just have to play with it.. add some timing around idle and see how it responds. i got loads of throttle response down low when i applied my current map vs the 15* smooth ramp like how the holley efi "build a 2d timing map" video showed..
What RPM did you set VTEC engagement?
stays on all the time.. that's what makes it faster than all the hondas.. they only get the vtec late in the rpm.. rookie mistake.
Do you recommend turning off learn mode once tuned?
no, i would dial it back from the default 50% limit though. mainly in specific areas. your vehicle will change over time. climate, parts wearing out, may start to run less efficient, etc. the learn will account for that.. but not only that, you can use the learn table to diagnosis. if suddenly you're seeing huge cliffs, theres a good chance you have an o2 or injector issue. same goes for closed loop. especially at WOT. if your fuel pump starts to die or you lose an injector, the close loop could very well keep your engine from leaning out at WOT. you want to monitor your learn table from time to time. i limit mine to around 15-20% for the most part on learn. closed loop i have limited to about that down low, and allow +% to remain high for WOT.
How did you get splitter? Could I just make one?
could probably make one, but much easier to just order one from efisystempro or similar website. i believe its just a canbus splitter.
@@callofgeorge easier then two wire connectors?
@@havocracing6019 you have a canbus terminal end, pins, and crimpers to crimp them? 4 wires in there i believe. quite tiny.
@@callofgeorge no. I'm not to worried about it rn. I need some help with getting it running. It will start and shut off. It's flooding very bad. I've tried setting up the wizard several different ways. I'm thinking it's injectors or map. When I look at gauges it's showing like 30lb boost and map and reading like 280 with engine off key on
@@havocracing6019 sniper? sounds like a bad map sensor. map sensor is built into the sniper, so its a trip back to holley for repair.
Lots of maybes and incomplete information and jumping between topics. No links for quoted videos on acceleration enrichment.
i apologize for the video not being up to your standards. it was made for those that have no clue what they're doing. i jump topics.. add, adhd, w/e you wanna call it.. i squirrel a bit as i think of things to try to make sure i cover allll the info there is (which is a lot if you didn't realize).. if i say maybe or had incomplete info, its because i didn't know and didn't want to give bad info.. that's why the title of the video is "what i've learned"... as for the video on AE, its literally pictured in the video.. type it in.. or google/youtube search exactly what you're looking for.. i typed in "holley efi acceleration enrichment tuning" and it was the first thing that came up.. can't help you if you're too lazy to help yourself man. i've learned quite a bit more since making this.. if you have a question on something, ask.. I'll share what info i know.