Replace Power Brake Booster Ford Bronco & F150 | 1980-1996 Ford Bronco | Bronco Restoration
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2022
- Hello,
This video shows how to diagnose and replace a failed power brake booster. The vehicle shown in this video is a 1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer, the process to replace a faulty brake power booster is similar to many vehicles.
The 1990 Ford Bronco will be very similar to any 1980-1996 Ford F150, 250, 350, Econoline, & Bronco
Links:
Brake Power Booster: amzn.to/3uaPTg2
Master Cylinder: amzn.to/3wik9bq
Tools: amzn.to/3u6RTps
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Truck Specs:
1990 Ford Bronco
Eddie Bauer Trim package
Black with Tan exterior
Saddle color interior
5.8L 351 Windsor engine
E4OD 4 Speed overdrive Transmission
Manual on the Fly 4x4
3.55 Dana 44 Front Axle w/Manual hubs
3.55 Ford 8.8 Read end
15" Alcoa Aluminum wheels
31" BFG All terrain tires
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Bronco Videos Playlist:
ua-cam.com/play/PLc.html...
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2 years old and right to the point. Clear, cut, detailed and informative. Liked and subbed. Thanks!
The brake sensor reassembly is by far the hardest part of the job. You did a great job of providing the detail that nobody else includes. Thanks a million!
Thanks 👍
Great job. My 1990 Bronco has the leaking air sound, so I'll definitely follow this process. Guys like you save the rest of us so much time, and I for one really appreciate you
Top video mate. You've helped me out big time 👍
Didn't know you could rebuild them at home, too bad I already swapped a reman for the OG unit. I liked the video. Nice to see the adjustment too. Thanks!
Hell yeah. Great video. I've always thought the booster was a hell of a lot more complicated than this
very well shot and instructed. I have a pre-assembled unit to install. hope they adjusted it right at the factory. Thank you for the tips!
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to explain everything and I think it’s a great idea too keeping the original brake booster if they’re simple to rebuild and fix like you said.
Your welcome
Hey Guy, let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair.
You can always use a small punch and hit the pin inside of rivets and they’ll just fall out. Then use a drill bit to remove the remaining rivet. Using a cut off wheel risks cutting into the door’s frame and mutilating the paint and metal.. kinda like he did in the video 😅..
Have to do this tomorrow to my 90 Bronco :)
Great video and very detailed. Thanks
Perfect! I was thinking of replacing mine. It's super rusty and makes that same air noise.
You won’t be disappointed, there’s nothing like good brakes on a bucking Bronco.
@@TheFixTech thankfully my brakes are still working pretty well. I'm focusing on getting the engine running right currently. I went and bought a set of injectors and a bunch of gaskets after watching your video. They come in the mail tomorrow.
Great video thanks
Thanks!
great video and well explained thumbs up
Thanks 👍
A little off the subject, how to adjust the cables on the dash unit ? Hot/Cold - Vent/Defrost ect ? 1988 F150 with AC. They are still intact but not adjusted correctly. Thanks for all the videos we needed some like you !!
I am not sure these are adjustable. These are vacuum controlled units (88-89 were specific than other models) if there is an issue with vents not opening properly check the hard vacuum line that routes from the engine manifold tree to the hvac box in the engine bay, that line also routes to the wire loom near the blower motor. That line always breaks keeping deforest only on… The 88-89 was a different system so I am not sure if this help.
Re: push rod adjustment - the Chilton manual says to do this with the engine running, presumably so the vacuum is present and engaged while you’re calibrating the pushrod to the MC. Did you notice if that made any difference with the engine on vs off?
I’ve always adjusted the pushrod with engine off with great results. The push rod is directly connected to the brake pedal, ensure the brake pedal is all the way up and make your adjustments. You could also turn the engine on for a couple seconds then off, the new booster will fill and hold vacuum, then make your adjustments.
@@TheFixTech that is a very good point, i forgot that the vac should hold after its started and shut off. Once this rain stops I’ll have to pull the MC and re-adjust. Thanks again for all the great info 👍
You make great videos dude. Ive done a few upgrades/repairs based on your videos to my bronco. Just sad you arent restoring a 786 boxster and making videos of that to help me lol…. How the hell is your engine bay so clean or are all those new parts?
I pressure wash and detail the engine about once a year. If you decide to wash your engine be careful of the electronics.
My 89 Ford Escort requires this. But I want to change my master cylinder too since it looks pretty bad. I once heard that these brake boosters can hold high pressures since it's part of a hydraulic system. Are we supposed to relieve pressure before removing them?
I have a credit with RockAuto, can you please guide me to the same parts for the booster and cylinder with RockAuto?
I had to rewatch the adjustment procedure a couple of times to realize that my new booster came without the middle nut, which means I couldn't tighten it down once it was adjusted. Then I looked at the old booster for comparison, and while it appears to have a stouter assembly (I'm assuming this is the original part on my 87 F150), it did not have the middle nut either. This makes me wonder if I need to go back and add a replacement middle nut or is it all that important for it to be tightened down?
In the case with no middle nut, I would use a thread sealer to keep the nut from backing off.
Hey I think your pedal pushrod is rotated upside-down. I was watching your video trying to figure out whether I should install mine with the pushrod hole offset up or offset down where it connects to the brake pedal. It looks like the one you removed had the offset up, but the one you installed had the offset down.
You are correct, I noticed this issue recently, it did not have any affect in braking. But I since corrected it. Thank you.
Can you use that new break booster on a 96 Bronco, too?
Yes it will, but I do recommend the remanufactured model instead as I am having problems with the new unit. I even exchanged it and it still is having problems. The remanufactured units seem better.
@@TheFixTech oh ok thanks
Awesome video however I did replace mine with a new booster and now hear a air leak when pressing the pedal, old one didn’t do that but was time to replace it, any thoughts on this?
Is it a new booster or a reman? I believe only cardone offers a brand new booster. It shouldn’t leak air nonetheless. I recommend return for an exchange.
@@TheFixTech it is a reman from orielly however only one I could find that is new is from parts geek, hopefully this new one will do
@@ethanrice2680 it's defective.....somethings I wont buy from O'Reilly's...
What if my pearl just sinks with little to no pressure with a gush of air
I’m hoping it’s nothing major other than replacing the booster and cylinder non of my calipers leak or lock up
Forgot to mention everything is original on the truck
OBS 1991 4.9 f150
If no external leaks then the master cylinder is leaking internally. I had same issue when I first bought my truck and was able to find an original nos ford master cylinder.
@@TheFixTech now this is probably a silly question but replace both would I have to replace the calipers and lines at the same time ?
Or can I start with the booster
Sorry for so many questions