I just did this watching your video. Took me 10 mins. Thank you sir. Without videos like this we probably will paid hundreds at the dealership. This job cost me $10 bucks
Thanks for this video. I saw another tutorial where they wanted me to remove the fan and a bunch of other stuff but I did it ur way and it worked. The only tricky thing I found was getting the connector off the sensor but I used some long needle nose pliers and it worked.
I have a misfire 1347 code and some times shows the scanner fault con this sensor, can this sensor faulty cut off and back the fuel on the cylinder? Thank you
Hello. i have same code mine camshaft too little bit oily. what if i just replace the o ring and use it ? because there are no noticable performance loss or anything, everything works well. Can you help me ? what i need to do. ( sorry for broken english)
Your sensor has broken down internally, and oil is seeping through it. The Oring does not seal against the internal parts of the sensor. You need a new part.
The exhaust cam sensor fails the "gentlest" of the three - it seems to manifest as a hesitation and/or lack of power only at the very low end, near idle, and possibly poor fuel economy. I'm having this issue with my 325i - no EML, but the revs really plummet (comes close to stalling, in fact) unless I give it 1000+ when moving from stationary. Luckily my father had an E46 318ti and the (only) cam sensor on that one is the same as our exhaust-side sensor, so I swapped them out. See if it makes a difference tomorrow. It's a very easy and very cheap job - well worth doing.
@@JMUDoc hello sir , thank you for sharing your experience brother i extremely appreciate that . I changed many things such as , 1. Rebuilt of Disa valve, 2. Vanos fully Rebuilt, 3. Cleaning Throttle body and IAC 4. Vaccume leaks 5. Intake position cam sensor. Excatly same problem as you described ! I still have the problem, i will try to change the exhaust cam position sensor and hopefully it will solve the problem, if you recommend anything else plz inform me. Thanks again bro ⚘
@@mazinalmaimani7291 Make sure to check ALL the possible vacuum leaks, including any vacuum plugs on the back of the manifold and the one on the CCV oil separator. If you have not changed the valve cover gasket, you might want to do that as well. Failing this, there is always the crankshaft position sensor... but that one is next to the starter, and means you going underneath and removing the vash plate.
@@mazinalmaimani7291 M54's are basically a game of "chase the vacuum leak" - best of luck. If the exhaust cam sensor fixes your issue, be sure to reply here.
I know this is late but yes you should clear the code, any parts store will for free if you don’t have a scanner tool, you can try resetting the battery for 5 minutes and see if the ecu resets but it might not
Mine did not, I would get intermittent check engine lights but no noticeable decrease in performance. The symptoms you mentioned sound like a vacuum leak, which M52/M54 engines really don't like. Check your idle air control valve, DISA valve, and the intake track upstream of the MAF.
@@northeastbavarian4249 Ok here's an update about the " Issues " that I fixed although it doesn't show on a scanner tool. I changed a blown vacuum pump , I changed the main engine harness, it was triggering a camshaft exhaust code . Had the engine mounts and transmission mounts changed . Had something like a cross on the back of the transmission changed , air filter cleaned and throttle body cleaned . The rough idle is still present , but only because the car is idling lower than it should be .... the shaking and annoying rough idle is gone , but the small vibrations are becoming of the low idle ... I believe it's idling on 600 RPM ... is that normal ? And if not , what causes low idle in your experience
@@JMUDoc yeah they're all good . Used a smoke machine to identify the vacuum leaks , which lead me to the vacuum pump that was blown , leaking both vacuum and oil into the exhaust I believe
@@sein7381 Mine idles in the low 600's and is occasionally a TINY bit rough, though not enough to chuck a code. We're talking "feeling it at the gearstick in neutral" kind of rough. I would look into the CCV - literally. If that's blocked it can cause rough idle; I'm doing my CCV (and the 02 Pilot mod) this week. It may also be the piston rings - there are only two on these pistons and the oil scraper clogs easily, leading to loss of compression. If you have access to a compression tester, definitely give that a try.
I just did this watching your video. Took me 10 mins. Thank you sir. Without videos like this we probably will paid hundreds at the dealership. This job cost me $10 bucks
Happy to hear it, comments like yours make it so worth it to document these repairs.
This is the best video so far.
I've seen some clowns on other channels telling people to disassemble the fan and everything close to the sensor 🤣
Appreciate it. Definitely no need for removing excess pieces.
Thanks for this video. I saw another tutorial where they wanted me to remove the fan and a bunch of other stuff but I did it ur way and it worked. The only tricky thing I found was getting the connector off the sensor but I used some long needle nose pliers and it worked.
thanks
On my e39 my expansion tank is in the way, so I have to remove it
I have a misfire 1347 code and some times shows the scanner fault con this sensor, can this sensor faulty cut off and back the fuel on the cylinder? Thank you
it is possible that this sensor could cause a misfire, but I would also look at other items- check your spark plugs and coil packs first.
Does the sensor slide right in, or does the bolt push the sensor in the rest of the way. Mine won't go past the o ring
Should push all the way on - coat the o-ring in engine oil.
Put some silicone grease on.
Push it in as far as you can, I applied pressure to the sensor as I tightened the bolt which seemed to help it go in straight.
Nice video bro!
Hello. i have same code mine camshaft too little bit oily. what if i just replace the o ring and use it ? because there are no noticable performance loss or anything, everything works well. Can you help me ? what i need to do. ( sorry for broken english)
Your sensor has broken down internally, and oil is seeping through it. The Oring does not seal against the internal parts of the sensor. You need a new part.
@@tc3sean Hi thanks for reply , i already replaced the camshaft position sensor it works fine.
It solves sudden stalling issues while driving in very low speed?
The exhaust cam sensor fails the "gentlest" of the three - it seems to manifest as a hesitation and/or lack of power only at the very low end, near idle, and possibly poor fuel economy. I'm having this issue with my 325i - no EML, but the revs really plummet (comes close to stalling, in fact) unless I give it 1000+ when moving from stationary.
Luckily my father had an E46 318ti and the (only) cam sensor on that one is the same as our exhaust-side sensor, so I swapped them out. See if it makes a difference tomorrow.
It's a very easy and very cheap job - well worth doing.
@@JMUDoc hello sir , thank you for sharing your experience brother i extremely appreciate that . I changed many things such as , 1. Rebuilt of Disa valve, 2. Vanos fully Rebuilt, 3. Cleaning Throttle body and IAC 4. Vaccume leaks 5. Intake position cam sensor.
Excatly same problem as you described !
I still have the problem, i will try to change the exhaust cam position sensor and hopefully it will solve the problem, if you recommend anything else plz inform me.
Thanks again bro ⚘
@@mazinalmaimani7291 Make sure to check ALL the possible vacuum leaks, including any vacuum plugs on the back of the manifold and the one on the CCV oil separator.
If you have not changed the valve cover gasket, you might want to do that as well.
Failing this, there is always the crankshaft position sensor... but that one is next to the starter, and means you going underneath and removing the vash plate.
@@JMUDoc i will definitely do that , Thanks man , Enjoy your day
Stay safe ⚘
@@mazinalmaimani7291 M54's are basically a game of "chase the vacuum leak" - best of luck.
If the exhaust cam sensor fixes your issue, be sure to reply here.
Is it fine if i dont clear the fault code?
I know this is late but yes you should clear the code, any parts store will for free if you don’t have a scanner tool, you can try resetting the battery for 5 minutes and see if the ecu resets but it might not
Yo tengo un BMW 323ci sin chispa y sin pulsos de inyección ,
Did your e46 suffer from rough idle or decreased acceleration ?
Mine did not, I would get intermittent check engine lights but no noticeable decrease in performance. The symptoms you mentioned sound like a vacuum leak, which M52/M54 engines really don't like. Check your idle air control valve, DISA valve, and the intake track upstream of the MAF.
Check your upper and lower intake boots - they are very, very common points of failure on this engine, especially at the bends/bellows.
@@northeastbavarian4249 Ok here's an update about the " Issues " that I fixed although it doesn't show on a scanner tool. I changed a blown vacuum pump , I changed the main engine harness, it was triggering a camshaft exhaust code . Had the engine mounts and transmission mounts changed . Had something like a cross on the back of the transmission changed , air filter cleaned and throttle body cleaned . The rough idle is still present , but only because the car is idling lower than it should be .... the shaking and annoying rough idle is gone , but the small vibrations are becoming of the low idle ... I believe it's idling on 600 RPM ... is that normal ? And if not , what causes low idle in your experience
@@JMUDoc yeah they're all good . Used a smoke machine to identify the vacuum leaks , which lead me to the vacuum pump that was blown , leaking both vacuum and oil into the exhaust I believe
@@sein7381 Mine idles in the low 600's and is occasionally a TINY bit rough, though not enough to chuck a code. We're talking "feeling it at the gearstick in neutral" kind of rough.
I would look into the CCV - literally. If that's blocked it can cause rough idle; I'm doing my CCV (and the 02 Pilot mod) this week.
It may also be the piston rings - there are only two on these pistons and the oil scraper clogs easily, leading to loss of compression. If you have access to a compression tester, definitely give that a try.
I can’t get the connector loose for some reason
Make sure you're squeezing the retaining clip on the plug, otherwise it won't release.
Appreciate it brother
My bolt stripped under the pressure of a small Allen key🙃
Try getting to it with some vice grips or pliers, then replace it with a new bolt when you get it out.
@@northeastbavarian4249 I ended up using easy outs and buying a new bolt and a spare for $0.20 🤣