Wish I saw this sooner. I bought the R10 with the 18-45mm before Xmas. Realizing I made a mistake not buying the 18-150mm. I returned the R10 w/18-45mm lens and ordered the R10 w/18-150mm lens which was delivered yesterday. I'm much happier. But I must admit, as I contemplated this swap, I also contemplated the R7 w/18-150mm lens. But no shit, it's another grand. For me, the in-body stabilization was the real carrot. But I already spent much more than I was planning when I started this shopping venture looking at much much less expensive DSLRs from Canon. I'm surprised your scale didn't show more difference in the weight between the two. The 18-48mm was really nice and lightweight in my opinion.
Great video! Thank you for posting. I was hesitant to get the bigger lens due to the size but seeing the difference in quality made it an easy decision.
Very detailed and thorough review of both lenses. It was a no brainer for me to get the 18-150mm lens with my R7 body as a kit. I have since also bought the Canon rf-s 10-18mm f4.5-6.3 STM kit lens to make a great compact and light weight travel set-up with an effective full frame FOV of 16mm - 240mm for the lens pairing. I also have several older ef mount lenses with ef-rf adapters, as well as an RF 100-500L lens to use on my R7 and R5 bodies. The R7 with the 100-500L makes a great birding and wildlife lens 160-800mm equivalent. I do wish that Canon would open up the rf and rf-s mounts to 3rd party lenses, such as Sigma and Tamron! Great and very professional review video, keep up the good work!
Great video! I just purchased the Canon R10 and it came with the 18-45mm lens. Now I wish it had the 150mm! Definitely will purchase that one soon! Thanks!
I was going to get a 850D, but then seen the R10 with the 18-150mm lens and got me thinking twice. No question about which kit lens is better, the 18-150mm wins without a doubt. Thanks for this video and clearing up my doubts. Will go for the R10 with 18-150mm 😊 Will be great at the zoo
well, sure its better. but there is like a 300-400$ price difference for this lense. and for that money you are going to get a better rf-lense for sure
If you buy the slow 18-45 mm you may later need to buy the 55-210 mm and maybe something faster. Especially for a beginner having a lens with more range can be nice. The 18-45 mm offers little extra to a good smartphone.
Well the sensor in the camera is gigantic compared to a cell phone, but fair point... The 18-150mm geni.us/uP62M82 would be a great option for an all in one lens... Getting an f/1.8 prime lenses would also be a nice option for lower light situations, portraits, and more depth of field play... All the best, Jay
Thank you Steve and yeah it's fun to try some different cameras and lenses for a change :) That R7 is a beast and I just wish Canon had more lenses to choose from... All the best, Jay
Got the r10 with the 18-45 I know the 18-150 is generally better but I figure I'll put the extra money I have not going with the 150 towards something nicer since both the kit lenses are ultimately meant to be something cheap to start you off with
Hello, I’m planning to buy Canon EOS R50 as my first camera. I have below options to choose from 1) camera + RF-S 18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM = £690 2) Option 1 + RF-S 55-210mm F5-7.1 IS STM Lens = £960 3) Camera + RF-S 18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM = £970 Please suggest. Thanks
Thanks for the comparison! I'm planning on buying the R7 with the RF 100-500 for aircraft photography. I also want a lens for wide angle landscape photos I think I'll get the 18-150 since that's all there is for kits on the R7. That'll cover most everything I need. I just wanted to see if the lens was any good.
Thank you for the comments :) I do totally agree 15mm would be way better for the wider view in studio, but those lenses in the RF-S mount do not exist yet...These are the only two lenses currently available specifically for the Canon RF-S mount. The M50 has a EF-M mount and offers different lens options. All the best, Jay
13:26 I like the bokeh blur capabiliy of the 18-150mm, in this cat photo. I own a Canon R100. I have a used EF mount 70-200mm constant f2.8 lens. Once that I've experienced f2.8 aperture I can not go back to slower aperture. I am more interested in the Sigma 18-50mm constant f2.8 RF-s lens. I like the prime lenses Canon offers for $200-$300. Canon RF 28mm f/2.8 STM Lens, Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens, and Used Canon RF 16mm f/2.8 STM Lens Excellent Plus condition. I think I will get the prime lenses I listed in this comment before I get the Sigma. As the Sigma is $600.
I'm sorry to cut the trip here, but 45mm vs 50mm for 18-150mm lens by simple optics isn't a valid comparison. Please correct me if I'm wrong in saying this.
Thanks for the video, very informative as I try to make a decision about which package to get. Quick question for you, is there a RF lens that you would recommend for macro shots? Is the 18-150mm able to do close up shots? Thanks in advance if you have a chance to answer this question,
Canon makes a few full frame RF Macro lenses, but no RF-S Macro lenses yet... the 18-150mm is not a true macro lens but it does have a pretty good 6.7" / 17 cm minimum focus distance which will yield you .44x magnification. That is is actually very good for a regular lens, and combined with the high resolution camera you can get some really good close-ups with some cropping in for example. For straight up Macro the RF 35mm f/1.8 Macro IS Lens would be the cheapest option with auto focus: amzn.to/47lMWfG
Note that f3.5 to f4.5 isn't 1 stop (faster)! Because f-stops are a little more complicated! f2.8 to f4 is 1 stop as is f4 to f5.6! (Next would be f8, f11, f16, f22 etc.) That's why you should be careful with those uneven f-stop numbers ... 😇 Now that the Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 for Canon RF is out I'm a little hesitant how to replace my RF-S (kit lens) 18-45mm (that came with my white R50)? The reach and the stabilisation speaks clearly for the RF-S 18-150mm! However it's nice to have a constant f2.8 over the whole 18-50mm of this new Sigma lens for the RF-mount. Gordon Laing showed that the Sigma is slightly sharper than the Canon RF-S 18-45mm. But Tony Northrup's studio test showed that the RF-S 18-45mm is as sharp as the new Sigma lens! Maybe I'll just wait for the Sigma 10-18mm f2.8 and the Sigma 16mm f1.4 and simply get the Canon RF-S 18-150mm because of its versatility and stabilisation (that the R50 lacks).
Sorry I mis-spoke, thank you! As far as your lens options and decisions, I think you are on the right track... The Sigma primes will be here soon, you already have the 18-45mm lens, and the 18-150mm is a great option for the money and versatility...
Jason - did you notice any high pitched noise from the 18-150 lens? Josh Sattin is his review of the longer lens noticed a high pitched noise even with autofocus and stabilization turned off. He was using an R7 IIRC
Yes these lenses make some noise, although I did not test it in MF with stabilization off. Josh knows what he is talking about, so I would take his word on that test 100%.
Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at the R7 as a second camera to my ancient but still functional 10D. As I age I'd like something a bit lighter for walking around and the 10D is just over 4 pounds with the 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS lens and battery grip. So I'm casting about for a good lens for the R7 and not spend a whole lot of money. @@Jason_Hermann
Sure, although my name is Jay ;) The R7 offers a higher 33MP sensor that is 5-axis stabilized. It also has a higher resolution lcd screen, 2 UHS-II memory card slots, fast 1/8000sec max shutter, Headphone jack, faster USB 3.2 port, weather sealing, way better batter life, and physically larger camera body. It also offers 10-bit C-Log video which is the more professional format. I hope that helps, Jay
Great video, as a first time buyer, I’m leaning for the r10 to take pictures of my wife and baby, I do want to explore once I get it but mainly using it for them at first. Wondering if getting the 18-155 would be the way to go since I want to eventually get more into photography or just get the 18-45 or I also saw a 500 dollar er 35mm. I appreciate your suggestion and thank you in advance
Hey Jamie, it works pretty much the same as the 18-45mm lens as far as far as my testing. The focus transitions were very smooth and silent on both lenses. Walking while filming video, the 18-45mm would be a little lighter weight which might matter to you.
The 18-150mm is noticeable better IQ than the 18-45mm if you want an RF-S mount lens. You could get older Canon EF lenses and use the RF to EF adapter which opens up all the EF lenses to you as options. If you go down that road, for $700 you can get some EF L quality glass... As far as Canon RF-S lenses you don't have that many options, especially high quality options for $700...
1:12 OK I'm a bit confused over what you're saying here, Jason. You say it begins at 29mm, which seems to be 1.6x the shortest (15mm) focal length, and you also apply the 1.6x to say it ends at a 240mm equivalent. Why are you applying the 1.6x crop factor if this is an RF-S lens on an APS-C camera? Since the RF-S lenses are specifically designed for APS-C cameras, doesn't 18-150mm mean exactly 18-150mm?? Can someone sort me out on this?
This is the old crop factor confusion which everybody goes thru at some point...👍 And yes it is very confusing at first! The effective focal range is what I am referencing. You don't need to do this for full frame cameras/ lenses because effective is the same as what the lens says. On crop factor cameras the lens numbers still reference to full frame standard of measurement. This is why we need to calculate the "effective" focal length when using the smaller sensor cameras. This is also why some crop factor cameras use 1.6x and others use 1.5x due to the actual sensor size... Basically with crop factors you get more effective zoom when compared to a full frame camera. One more example I will give is if you want a 35mm look on a crop factor camera you would need to do the math and figure that out. so basically it would be 35mm / 1.6x which gives you ~22mm.... So if filming with a crop factor camera you would need to use a 22mm lens to give you the same "field of view" as what a 35mm lens would give you on a full frame camera. Again, because the standard is measured in full frame when it comes to focal lengths this is why we need to do the math....
@@Jason_Hermann Thanks for your response Jason (and yes, I'm a Canon dude so I work with the 1.6x factor). So for Canon, I understand how APS-C cameras provide 1.6x the max focal length for RF lenses (I use my EOS R7 with an RF 100-400mm at the zoo, and LOVE it because it's actually a 160mm-640mm on this camera!). BUT my understanding was that if I use, say, my *RF-S* 18-150mm (which is designed specifically for the smaller APS-C sensors), then no such 1.6x factor exists for that lens (i.e. 18-150mm is 18-150mm). And even if I put my RF-S 18-150mm on my full-frame EOS RP, the RP detects the RF-S lens and automatically switches to "1.6x crop mode" so that you get the same focal lengths on the RP (albeit apparently with a hit on overall resolution, which I can't explain because I don't know the tech stuff). So now I'm confused! lol...doesn't make sense to print 18-150mm on the lens if it's never 18-150
@@asystasyorg The crop factor exists due to the size of the sensor. The lens has nothing to do with it. Lenses designed for crop sensor cameras tend to project a smaller image than full frame lenses - - - because that projection only has to cover a smaller sensor. This is not contributing to why lenses designed for cropped sensors are ...well...cropped. It's 100% due to the fact that crop sensors are smaller. The reason lenses designed for crop sensors project a smaller image is because it is CHEAPER to design lenses when you don't have to cover a full frame sensor. The optics are different - - which is why lenses designed for crop sensors are generally cheaper. The reason Canon designates their lenses designed for crop sensors with an "S" is for this very reason - - because they are designed to be attached to cameras with smaller sensors - - so the projected image doesn't need to be as big. If you attach one of these lenses to a full frame camera, the projected image would be smaller than the full frame sensor - so you get heavy vignetting (darkening) in the corners of images taken on full frame cameras with lenses designed for cropped sensors. This is why some full frame cameras have a "crop mode". They are simply only using the center part of the sensor. It's essentially the same thing as letting the full frame sensor capture the full image - - heavy vignetting and all - - and then cropping the center out of it in post to get rid of the vignetting. This is what a crop sensor does essentially. 18mm on an 18mm lens is referring to the distance between the last element of the lens and the sensor. That distance is 18mm whether it's attached to a crop sensor or a full frame. Here's the difference : An 18mm lens designed for full frame sensors projects a larger image - - because it's designed to project onto a full frame sensor. If you attach a full frame lens onto a camera with a crop sensor, the image projected is the same size it always was, and it's still 18mm from the sensor. It's just that the sensor is only capturing the center of the projected image because it's smaller. If you take that same lens and attach it to a full frame camera, the projected image out of the lens is still 18mm from the full frame sensor, but the sensor is large enough to capture the whole projected image. If you took the images captured by each camera, the one captured on the crop sensor would be smaller - - and would contain a smaller area in the center of the lens' projected image. You would have to blow up the crop image to be the same physical size as the full frame image, and when you put those images side by side, the one captured by the crop sensor would appear more zoomed in. THAT is why we have a crop factor. The lens didn't have anything to do with it. It was 100% due to the size of the sensor the lens' projected image was captured on. An 18mm lens is an 18mm lens no matter what it's attached to because it's referring to "focal length" not "zoom". I think many people get these two confused. It's the distance between the last focal element of the lens and the sensor on which its projected image is displayed for capture. When you attach a lens designed for crop sensor onto some full frame cameras that have a "crop mode" - all those cameras are doing is only using the center of the sensor. The camera just ignores the parts of the sensor that aren't capturing any light because the lens isn't projecting any. To put it another way, the "crop mode" on a full frame camera is no different than not having a crop mode, letting the full frame camera capture it's full sensor (heavy vignetting/darkening and all), and then later cropping the usable part of the image. You literally end up with the same result. A more zoomed in looking photograph. And for Canon lenses designed for crop sensor cameras, the factor by which you "crop" is about 1.6. That's the crop factor of THE SENSOR; not the lens. The crop factor just tells you what a particular focal length will look like - - - had it been captured by a different sized sensor. And most commonly, we compare crop sensors to full frame sensors. For Canon, this factor is 1.6. So, a lens whose focal length is 18mm and whose projection is captured by a crop sensor will APPEAR the same as a lens with a focal length of 1.6 times this (29mm) and the projection is captured by a full frame sensor. Another way to imagine this : Suppose you have an overhead projector displaying an image on a wall. It's in focus at the wall. The distance between the projector and the wall is the focal length. Now suppose you take a large piece of paper and you trace the projected image onto that piece of paper. Now, you remove your paper and someone else puts their much smaller sheet of paper centered on the same spot as you had yours and traces their own image. Now, the "focal length" of the lens (the distance between the projector and the wall) didn't change. The size of the medium you traced the image on changed. If the person who used the smaller sheet of paper went to a copier machine and blew up the image so that it was the same size as your sheet of paper, it would just appear to be a "zoomed in" version of what you traced. It's AS IF the projector were moved back farther away from the wall - enlarging the image (increasing the "focal length"). Of course, that's not what REALLY happened. It's just AS IF it happened. The distance between the projector and the wall never changed. It's "focal length" is the same. It's simply the EQUIVALENT to the projector being moved farther from the wall and then tracing the image on the same size paper you used. The image would be bigger with the projector pulled back. It's the equivalent to that. What REALLY happened was that it was traced onto a smaller piece of paper and then blown up. Sorry this was so long.
An 18-150 Rf on full sensor is 18-150 An 18-150 RF-S is 29-240 we get that! We just don’t know why they couldn’t make the RF-S a true 18-150for crop sensor cameras! If you need a work around just stand further away from the camera
hey, really great review!! im currently using the R50 together with the 18-45mm lens, but i'm considering to get another one. either the 18-150mm vs the 55-220mm. i'm a beginner, but i typically do street and portrait photography (and to gets shots of people from afar without getting caught by them). but i also want something all purpose so i dont have to change the lenses. i have watched your videos on the 18-150mm and also the 55-220mm, but would still love to get your advice!
Hey there, I would go with the 18-150mm lens if I were you. You can crop in a lot if needed, and having the full range with one lens is way more convenient compared to switching lenses. 220mm is a lot more reach, but it does not sound like you will need that much for most of what you are doing. All the best, Jay
Hello, The R7 offers the sensor stabilization and the R10 does not... In my opinion that is the main key difference... The R10 will be a great camera and lighter weight than the R7, so I would prolly recommend that for a beginner...
I would like to ask what does it mean Mirrorless in the R10 I mean what’s the difference between mirror less and with the mirror I’m sorry for this ridiculous questions but I’m from Middle East so I guess I don’t have any idea about it.
It's a great question! Older cameras know as DSLR's or SLR's when it was film had a mirror inside that would allow you to look thru an optical viewfinder and then see thru the lens. The mirror also worked for the fast autofocus system these style of cameras had back in the day. The mirror would move out of the way when the photo was being taking. Here is an older article where I explain this in great detail: www.sonyalphalab.com/guides/sony-alpha-camera-guide/
should we be asking Do we get the same field of view and picture at 18mm RF-S lens on a R7 Crop camera than if we took the same Picture at 18mm RF lens on R6 full frame camera. If not what would be the lens size to achieve this. I thinking @ 1.6 we would need 11mm lens thanks
18 x1.6 = 28.8mm effective and 11 x 1.6 = 17.6mm effective... So yeah 11mm sounds about right Paul for rthe same field of view as a full frame at 18mm👍
I don't normally suggest that for beginners, but a lot of Canon users do suggest that. The older EF L lenses in particular are way better optically than these RF-S lenses, no question, and you can often find a great deal which is also great. However, the lenses are larger, heavier, require an adapter, and do not focus as good for video in particular if that matters to you. If you want a small light weight package they are not the best option, but again optics wise they are incredible options worth considering depending on your needs and use cases. I used my old Canon L lenses for years on my Sony cameras w/ adapters because at the time many years ago Sony did not have that many lenses available for a reasonable price and quality, sol it made a lot of sense to me. SO I can see why many people suggest that considering how there are not many good quality RF-S lenses from Canon yet and the RF L lenses are crazy expensive. It's really about the size, weight, and AF for video I would consider if that matters or not to you. All the best, Jay
Prolly not going to be able to make that video, but the trick is this... set the lens to 45mm and get as close to your subject as you can with the autofocus still working of course... The further the background is from your focused subject, the blurrier the background will be. You saw this effect in the minimum focus distance lab testing where the lights looked like circular balls. It did it at both 18mm and 45mm. I do have a video on that topic, but I'm not using the R10 or that lens... Concept is still the same though if you want to check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/XSWgl8AzorM/v-deo.html I hope that helps and all the best, Jay
I'm sorry if i sound like a total newbie which i am but, are all photos out of the camera look ( distorted like in 7:02 ) using these two lenses, and if so what is the software you're using to correct it. really sorry if my questions are silly but I'm just getting into photography.
Please don't ever be sorry asking questions on this channel, as we all start somewhere in this never ending game of learning :) As to your question, if you shoot in Jpeg quality the camera will correct the photos for you automatically, so no distortion. If you shoot raw like I was showing at that timestamp of 7:02 you will have distortion on some lenses worse than others, which can be corrected in post processing. I'm using Adobe Lightroom classic which has that lens profile correction with some tools to fix it and fine tune if needed. All the best an keep asking questions as you have them, happy to help!
They are called Canon EF lenses and you can see all those options here: bhpho.to/3hODU5e Once you find a lens that interests you, I would recommend looking for a used version to save a lot of money!
Have you tried USB-C to headphone jack to check audio during shooting? If the available USB-C to headphone jacks of the phone work in Canon R-10 please let us know. Please
Hi Jay, I am planning to buy either the Canon R10 with 18-150 kit lens or the ZV-E10 with Sigma 18-50 f2.8 or the kit lens? Which would you suggest between these options?
Between these two cameras for photography I would rather have the Canon R10, but for video I would want the ZV-E10.... A very hard decision considering how many more APS-C lens options you have with Sony... The Canon R10 body is better in my opinion for the ergonomics and with the viewfinder is also a better option for outside photography work in particular. The ZV-E10 however offers better video though when using Slog2 in particular... I made a video about Slog2 here: ua-cam.com/video/jnn82Fhc4Do/v-deo.html
RF-S lenses are designed for the smaller sensor crop factor cameras like the R7 and R10 for example. RF Lenses are designed for the full frame cameras like the R5, R6 Mark II, R3 for example.
Yes, it's a great kit, but the M camera system is no longer being developed, so it's a dead system basically. Therefore I would recommend the R50 or R10 instead if you want support for new lenses and firmware updates in the future...
I'm starting out on this and kinda experimenting, do you recomend the 18-45 mm for begginers or do you think I should go for the 18-150 even tho I'm just experimenting?
If you want lighter weight and don't think you will need the additional range then the 18-45mm might be a better option for you. For me, I would go with the 18-135mm kit...
Low light performance is not the greatest because they are both variable aperture lenses I would say. I prefer fast primes for low light when possible or f/2.8 zooms...
Great comparison specially because I'm planning to buy R10 But one more question please Would this kit lens be good for portrait or makeup photos? Or you think there is a better lens?
This video helped me a lot to pick a lens since I’m leaning towards the R10, for me since I don’t record video I’m more for landscape portrait and night photography would you think the RP is better suited? What Lens would you recommend if so to start? I’m bumping up from the iPhone 14 pro to a camera, portability is an issue for me I want something small but better than the iPhone that’s why I was looking at the R10
Hi Jason. I just ordered the Cannon EOS r50 on Amazon that came with this lens. (18-150mm) Do you think the r50 camera takes as good a shot as the r7/r10 with the same lens. Thanks! I’m a newbie!
Yes I do think they will be very similar in image quality with the same lens... Don't worry about that and get out there using your new awesome camera and lens! 👊
Hi Jason, Great video, I want to buy my first camera and am confused between -CANON R10 RF-S 18-150MM F3.5-6.3 IS STM LENS and Canon RP 24-105mm 4-7.1 , I need you help 🙂
Well, I would say the Canon RP in my opinion would be better for photography than video, and the R10 is more of a hybrid offering good photos and video with a smaller sensor of course... The RP is the base model full frame camera, where as the R10 has a smaller sensor, but a few more bells and whistles for content creators I would say... I can see why you are having a hard time with the decision and I hope that helps, Jay
Hello Master: Please help and give me some advice, The camera I am currently using is Canon EOS R10, The kit lens used with it is (RF-S18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM) My main subject matter is toy photography. The secondary shooting content is street photography or portrait photos. Now I want to buy new lenses, after watching your video, Want to compare between Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM and RF85mm F2 Macro IS STM After making a choice, I would like to ask you to give me some advice on which lens is more suitable for me? Thank you.🙏🙏🙏
@@Jason_Hermann I mean this particular lens doesn't fully cover APS-C sensor on 18mm! The level of vignetting in far corners is above reasonable amount.
Yeah, the 18-45mm kit lens is not the greatest and we need more APS-C lenses from Canon asap!! These two lenses at this time are the only options for APS-C native RF-S glass....
How many times did I say 135mm instead of 150mm??
all good, great video very helpful
I like your no nonsense, get to the point style, thanks.
I appreciate that, thank you :)
Wish I saw this sooner. I bought the R10 with the 18-45mm before Xmas. Realizing I made a mistake not buying the 18-150mm. I returned the R10 w/18-45mm lens and ordered the R10 w/18-150mm lens which was delivered yesterday. I'm much happier. But I must admit, as I contemplated this swap, I also contemplated the R7 w/18-150mm lens. But no shit, it's another grand. For me, the in-body stabilization was the real carrot. But I already spent much more than I was planning when I started this shopping venture looking at much much less expensive DSLRs from Canon. I'm surprised your scale didn't show more difference in the weight between the two. The 18-48mm was really nice and lightweight in my opinion.
Great video! Thank you for posting. I was hesitant to get the bigger lens due to the size but seeing the difference in quality made it an easy decision.
Glad it was helpful!
Very detailed and thorough review of both lenses. It was a no brainer for me to get the 18-150mm lens with my R7 body as a kit. I have since also bought the Canon rf-s 10-18mm f4.5-6.3 STM kit lens to make a great compact and light weight travel set-up with an effective full frame FOV of 16mm - 240mm for the lens pairing. I also have several older ef mount lenses with ef-rf adapters, as well as an RF 100-500L lens to use on my R7 and R5 bodies. The R7 with the 100-500L makes a great birding and wildlife lens 160-800mm equivalent. I do wish that Canon would open up the rf and rf-s mounts to 3rd party lenses, such as Sigma and Tamron! Great and very professional review video, keep up the good work!
I think that has happened! Sigma already announced rf mount lenses.
Great comparison Jay! Loved the photos.
Thanks Josh!
Great video! I just purchased the Canon R10 and it came with the 18-45mm lens. Now I wish it had the 150mm! Definitely will purchase that one soon! Thanks!
Have fun!
I was in your situation. I sold 18-45 to B&H and bought used 18-150 from eBay
Great shot of the caterpillar.
thanks for this! I got a bundle that came with both lenses. I'm stoked!
Hope you enjoy it!
I was going to get a 850D, but then seen the R10 with the 18-150mm lens and got me thinking twice. No question about which kit lens is better, the 18-150mm wins without a doubt. Thanks for this video and clearing up my doubts. Will go for the R10 with 18-150mm 😊
Will be great at the zoo
Enjoy!
well, sure its better. but there is like a 300-400$ price difference for this lense. and for that money you are going to get a better rf-lense for sure
Great review! Your reviews are always so informative. Before I was undecided, but now I know which lens to buy. Thanks!
If you buy the slow 18-45 mm you may later need to buy the 55-210 mm and maybe something faster. Especially for a beginner having a lens with more range can be nice. The 18-45 mm offers little extra to a good smartphone.
Well the sensor in the camera is gigantic compared to a cell phone, but fair point... The 18-150mm geni.us/uP62M82 would be a great option for an all in one lens... Getting an f/1.8 prime lenses would also be a nice option for lower light situations, portraits, and more depth of field play... All the best, Jay
Very useful info I'm looking for. Thanks!
Really great clear and direct video to help make a decision!
Jay great to see you doing a Canon lens review it was your review of the RX100 mk7 that encouraged me to buy. I have now bought an R7 .
Thank you Steve and yeah it's fun to try some different cameras and lenses for a change :) That R7 is a beast and I just wish Canon had more lenses to choose from... All the best, Jay
12:41 "cat didnt move"
Typical cat behaviour 😂
Yup!!
Eu estava muito na dúvida de qual lente escolher e esse vídeo foi um divisor de águas, muito obrigada!
Seja muito bem-vindo e obrigado pelas palavras gentis :)
Got the r10 with the 18-45 I know the 18-150 is generally better but I figure I'll put the extra money I have not going with the 150 towards something nicer since both the kit lenses are ultimately meant to be something cheap to start you off with
Sounds like a good plan ;)
Hello, I’m planning to buy Canon EOS R50 as my first camera. I have below options to choose from
1) camera + RF-S 18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM = £690
2) Option 1 + RF-S 55-210mm F5-7.1 IS STM Lens = £960
3) Camera + RF-S 18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM = £970
Please suggest.
Thanks
#3 would be my suggestion... All the best, Jay
@@Jason_Hermannhi, may I know the reason why you chose #3 instead of #2 I’m planning to buy a new lense for my r50 camera
Great video! Thanks so much! I am deciding between the two lens and I think the 18-150 is the better buy!
I 100% agree ;)
Which lens did you go for?
@@plethoraofstuff.912 I went with the 18-150!
Such a useful video. Many thanks!
You're welcome!
Informative.I am gonna buy it.
Thank you
Watching from Bangladesh ❤❤
Thanks for the comparison! I'm planning on buying the R7 with the RF 100-500 for aircraft photography. I also want a lens for wide angle landscape photos I think I'll get the 18-150 since that's all there is for kits on the R7. That'll cover most everything I need. I just wanted to see if the lens was any good.
For content creators like me, filming in small room, 18mm is already tight. I have Canon M50 and 15mm kit lens is much more useful.
Thank you for the comments :) I do totally agree 15mm would be way better for the wider view in studio, but those lenses in the RF-S mount do not exist yet...These are the only two lenses currently available specifically for the Canon RF-S mount. The M50 has a EF-M mount and offers different lens options. All the best, Jay
13:26 I like the bokeh blur capabiliy of the 18-150mm, in this cat photo. I own a Canon R100. I have a used EF mount 70-200mm constant f2.8 lens. Once that I've experienced f2.8 aperture I can not go back to slower aperture. I am more interested in the Sigma 18-50mm constant f2.8 RF-s lens. I like the prime lenses Canon offers for $200-$300. Canon RF 28mm f/2.8 STM Lens, Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens, and Used Canon RF 16mm f/2.8 STM Lens Excellent Plus condition. I think I will get the prime lenses I listed in this comment before I get the Sigma. As the Sigma is $600.
Great stuff thank you ☺️
Beautifully presented! ❤️
Thank you! 😊
Such a cute cat ❤
Thank you for making this video, helps a lot choosing which kit lense to get. Buying a R10 ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Very, very nice video, well done!
Thank you very much Han :)
Plz make full tutorial on canon R10
Michael the maven has a great one
I'm sorry to cut the trip here, but 45mm vs 50mm for 18-150mm lens by simple optics isn't a valid comparison. Please correct me if I'm wrong in saying this.
To speed up time to market and cut cost, rfs 18-45 and 18=150 share similar optical design as efm 18-45 and 18=150.
Жаль нет Sigma 16 1.4 ((((
Thanks for the video, very informative as I try to make a decision about which package to get. Quick question for you, is there a RF lens that you would recommend for macro shots? Is the 18-150mm able to do close up shots? Thanks in advance if you have a chance to answer this question,
Canon makes a few full frame RF Macro lenses, but no RF-S Macro lenses yet... the 18-150mm is not a true macro lens but it does have a pretty good 6.7" / 17 cm minimum focus distance which will yield you .44x magnification. That is is actually very good for a regular lens, and combined with the high resolution camera you can get some really good close-ups with some cropping in for example. For straight up Macro the RF 35mm f/1.8 Macro IS Lens would be the cheapest option with auto focus: amzn.to/47lMWfG
Note that f3.5 to f4.5 isn't 1 stop (faster)! Because f-stops are a little more complicated! f2.8 to f4 is 1 stop as is f4 to f5.6! (Next would be f8, f11, f16, f22 etc.) That's why you should be careful with those uneven f-stop numbers ... 😇
Now that the Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 for Canon RF is out I'm a little hesitant how to replace my RF-S (kit lens) 18-45mm (that came with my white R50)? The reach and the stabilisation speaks clearly for the RF-S 18-150mm! However it's nice to have a constant f2.8 over the whole 18-50mm of this new Sigma lens for the RF-mount.
Gordon Laing showed that the Sigma is slightly sharper than the Canon RF-S 18-45mm. But Tony Northrup's studio test showed that the RF-S 18-45mm is as sharp as the new Sigma lens! Maybe I'll just wait for the Sigma 10-18mm f2.8 and the Sigma 16mm f1.4 and simply get the Canon RF-S 18-150mm because of its versatility and stabilisation (that the R50 lacks).
Sorry I mis-spoke, thank you! As far as your lens options and decisions, I think you are on the right track... The Sigma primes will be here soon, you already have the 18-45mm lens, and the 18-150mm is a great option for the money and versatility...
Jason - did you notice any high pitched noise from the 18-150 lens? Josh Sattin is his review of the longer lens noticed a high pitched noise even with autofocus and stabilization turned off. He was using an R7 IIRC
Yes these lenses make some noise, although I did not test it in MF with stabilization off. Josh knows what he is talking about, so I would take his word on that test 100%.
Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at the R7 as a second camera to my ancient but still functional 10D. As I age I'd like something a bit lighter for walking around and the 10D is just over 4 pounds with the 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS lens and battery grip. So I'm casting about for a good lens for the R7 and not spend a whole lot of money. @@Jason_Hermann
Thank you for this video 📷
Hello Siri can you please tell me the difference between R7 and R10.
And get the difference between both justify the price gap
Sure, although my name is Jay ;) The R7 offers a higher 33MP sensor that is 5-axis stabilized. It also has a higher resolution lcd screen, 2 UHS-II memory card slots, fast 1/8000sec max shutter, Headphone jack, faster USB 3.2 port, weather sealing, way better batter life, and physically larger camera body. It also offers 10-bit C-Log video which is the more professional format. I hope that helps, Jay
Great video, as a first time buyer, I’m leaning for the r10 to take pictures of my wife and baby, I do want to explore once I get it but mainly using it for them at first. Wondering if getting the 18-155 would be the way to go since I want to eventually get more into photography or just get the 18-45 or I also saw a 500 dollar er 35mm. I appreciate your suggestion and thank you in advance
Im planning to get r10 with 18-155, how is your experience with that lens?
Thank you again 👏👏
You're welcome 😊
I wonder how the 150mm works for video. Thanks!! Great video!
Hey Jamie, it works pretty much the same as the 18-45mm lens as far as far as my testing. The focus transitions were very smooth and silent on both lenses. Walking while filming video, the 18-45mm would be a little lighter weight which might matter to you.
@@Jason_Hermann Awesome! Thanks!
what is the best for talking head videos (podcast and youtube)?
Great Video - Up to the Mark ❤
Thanks! 😃
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I am wanting to purchase a lense that is an upgraded or better quality than the Rf -18 -45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM …my budget is 700. Any recommendations ?
The 18-150mm is noticeable better IQ than the 18-45mm if you want an RF-S mount lens. You could get older Canon EF lenses and use the RF to EF adapter which opens up all the EF lenses to you as options. If you go down that road, for $700 you can get some EF L quality glass... As far as Canon RF-S lenses you don't have that many options, especially high quality options for $700...
1:12 OK I'm a bit confused over what you're saying here, Jason. You say it begins at 29mm, which seems to be 1.6x the shortest (15mm) focal length, and you also apply the 1.6x to say it ends at a 240mm equivalent. Why are you applying the 1.6x crop factor if this is an RF-S lens on an APS-C camera? Since the RF-S lenses are specifically designed for APS-C cameras, doesn't 18-150mm mean exactly 18-150mm?? Can someone sort me out on this?
This is the old crop factor confusion which everybody goes thru at some point...👍 And yes it is very confusing at first! The effective focal range is what I am referencing. You don't need to do this for full frame cameras/ lenses because effective is the same as what the lens says. On crop factor cameras the lens numbers still reference to full frame standard of measurement. This is why we need to calculate the "effective" focal length when using the smaller sensor cameras. This is also why some crop factor cameras use 1.6x and others use 1.5x due to the actual sensor size... Basically with crop factors you get more effective zoom when compared to a full frame camera. One more example I will give is if you want a 35mm look on a crop factor camera you would need to do the math and figure that out. so basically it would be 35mm / 1.6x which gives you ~22mm.... So if filming with a crop factor camera you would need to use a 22mm lens to give you the same "field of view" as what a 35mm lens would give you on a full frame camera. Again, because the standard is measured in full frame when it comes to focal lengths this is why we need to do the math....
@@Jason_Hermann Thanks for your response Jason (and yes, I'm a Canon dude so I work with the 1.6x factor). So for Canon, I understand how APS-C cameras provide 1.6x the max focal length for RF lenses (I use my EOS R7 with an RF 100-400mm at the zoo, and LOVE it because it's actually a 160mm-640mm on this camera!). BUT my understanding was that if I use, say, my *RF-S* 18-150mm (which is designed specifically for the smaller APS-C sensors), then no such 1.6x factor exists for that lens (i.e. 18-150mm is 18-150mm). And even if I put my RF-S 18-150mm on my full-frame EOS RP, the RP detects the RF-S lens and automatically switches to "1.6x crop mode" so that you get the same focal lengths on the RP (albeit apparently with a hit on overall resolution, which I can't explain because I don't know the tech stuff). So now I'm confused! lol...doesn't make sense to print 18-150mm on the lens if it's never 18-150
@@asystasyorg The crop factor exists due to the size of the sensor. The lens has nothing to do with it. Lenses designed for crop sensor cameras tend to project a smaller image than full frame lenses - - - because that projection only has to cover a smaller sensor. This is not contributing to why lenses designed for cropped sensors are ...well...cropped. It's 100% due to the fact that crop sensors are smaller. The reason lenses designed for crop sensors project a smaller image is because it is CHEAPER to design lenses when you don't have to cover a full frame sensor. The optics are different - - which is why lenses designed for crop sensors are generally cheaper.
The reason Canon designates their lenses designed for crop sensors with an "S" is for this very reason - - because they are designed to be attached to cameras with smaller sensors - - so the projected image doesn't need to be as big. If you attach one of these lenses to a full frame camera, the projected image would be smaller than the full frame sensor - so you get heavy vignetting (darkening) in the corners of images taken on full frame cameras with lenses designed for cropped sensors. This is why some full frame cameras have a "crop mode". They are simply only using the center part of the sensor. It's essentially the same thing as letting the full frame sensor capture the full image - - heavy vignetting and all - - and then cropping the center out of it in post to get rid of the vignetting. This is what a crop sensor does essentially.
18mm on an 18mm lens is referring to the distance between the last element of the lens and the sensor. That distance is 18mm whether it's attached to a crop sensor or a full frame. Here's the difference :
An 18mm lens designed for full frame sensors projects a larger image - - because it's designed to project onto a full frame sensor. If you attach a full frame lens onto a camera with a crop sensor, the image projected is the same size it always was, and it's still 18mm from the sensor. It's just that the sensor is only capturing the center of the projected image because it's smaller. If you take that same lens and attach it to a full frame camera, the projected image out of the lens is still 18mm from the full frame sensor, but the sensor is large enough to capture the whole projected image. If you took the images captured by each camera, the one captured on the crop sensor would be smaller - - and would contain a smaller area in the center of the lens' projected image. You would have to blow up the crop image to be the same physical size as the full frame image, and when you put those images side by side, the one captured by the crop sensor would appear more zoomed in. THAT is why we have a crop factor. The lens didn't have anything to do with it. It was 100% due to the size of the sensor the lens' projected image was captured on.
An 18mm lens is an 18mm lens no matter what it's attached to because it's referring to "focal length" not "zoom". I think many people get these two confused. It's the distance between the last focal element of the lens and the sensor on which its projected image is displayed for capture.
When you attach a lens designed for crop sensor onto some full frame cameras that have a "crop mode" - all those cameras are doing is only using the center of the sensor. The camera just ignores the parts of the sensor that aren't capturing any light because the lens isn't projecting any. To put it another way, the "crop mode" on a full frame camera is no different than not having a crop mode, letting the full frame camera capture it's full sensor (heavy vignetting/darkening and all), and then later cropping the usable part of the image. You literally end up with the same result. A more zoomed in looking photograph. And for Canon lenses designed for crop sensor cameras, the factor by which you "crop" is about 1.6. That's the crop factor of THE SENSOR; not the lens.
The crop factor just tells you what a particular focal length will look like - - - had it been captured by a different sized sensor. And most commonly, we compare crop sensors to full frame sensors. For Canon, this factor is 1.6. So, a lens whose focal length is 18mm and whose projection is captured by a crop sensor will APPEAR the same as a lens with a focal length of 1.6 times this (29mm) and the projection is captured by a full frame sensor.
Another way to imagine this :
Suppose you have an overhead projector displaying an image on a wall. It's in focus at the wall. The distance between the projector and the wall is the focal length. Now suppose you take a large piece of paper and you trace the projected image onto that piece of paper. Now, you remove your paper and someone else puts their much smaller sheet of paper centered on the same spot as you had yours and traces their own image.
Now, the "focal length" of the lens (the distance between the projector and the wall) didn't change. The size of the medium you traced the image on changed. If the person who used the smaller sheet of paper went to a copier machine and blew up the image so that it was the same size as your sheet of paper, it would just appear to be a "zoomed in" version of what you traced. It's AS IF the projector were moved back farther away from the wall - enlarging the image (increasing the "focal length"). Of course, that's not what REALLY happened. It's just AS IF it happened. The distance between the projector and the wall never changed. It's "focal length" is the same. It's simply the EQUIVALENT to the projector being moved farther from the wall and then tracing the image on the same size paper you used. The image would be bigger with the projector pulled back. It's the equivalent to that. What REALLY happened was that it was traced onto a smaller piece of paper and then blown up.
Sorry this was so long.
@@willoughbykrenzteinburg thanks for helping sort me out on that!
An 18-150 Rf on full sensor is 18-150 An 18-150 RF-S is 29-240 we get that! We just don’t know why they couldn’t make the RF-S a true 18-150for crop sensor cameras! If you need a work around just stand further away from the camera
thanks man
Good Video. Which program you use?
Adobe Lightroom for the photos and Final Cut for video 👍
hey, really great review!! im currently using the R50 together with the 18-45mm lens, but i'm considering to get another one. either the 18-150mm vs the 55-220mm.
i'm a beginner, but i typically do street and portrait photography (and to gets shots of people from afar without getting caught by them). but i also want something all purpose so i dont have to change the lenses.
i have watched your videos on the 18-150mm and also the 55-220mm, but would still love to get your advice!
Hey there, I would go with the 18-150mm lens if I were you. You can crop in a lot if needed, and having the full range with one lens is way more convenient compared to switching lenses. 220mm is a lot more reach, but it does not sound like you will need that much for most of what you are doing. All the best, Jay
Hiii!!! I’m getting my first camera. What would you suggest R10 or R7? I’m a beginner.
Hello, The R7 offers the sensor stabilization and the R10 does not... In my opinion that is the main key difference... The R10 will be a great camera and lighter weight than the R7, so I would prolly recommend that for a beginner...
I would like to ask what does it mean Mirrorless in the R10 I mean what’s the difference between mirror less and with the mirror I’m sorry for this ridiculous questions but I’m from Middle East so I guess I don’t have any idea about it.
It's a great question! Older cameras know as DSLR's or SLR's when it was film had a mirror inside that would allow you to look thru an optical viewfinder and then see thru the lens. The mirror also worked for the fast autofocus system these style of cameras had back in the day. The mirror would move out of the way when the photo was being taking. Here is an older article where I explain this in great detail: www.sonyalphalab.com/guides/sony-alpha-camera-guide/
should we be asking
Do we get the same field of view and picture at 18mm RF-S lens on a R7 Crop camera than if we took the same Picture at 18mm RF lens on R6 full frame camera.
If not what would be the lens size to achieve this. I thinking @ 1.6 we would need 11mm lens
thanks
18 x1.6 = 28.8mm effective and 11 x 1.6 = 17.6mm effective... So yeah 11mm sounds about right Paul for rthe same field of view as a full frame at 18mm👍
There's a new RF-S 10-18mm coming out (currently on pre-order). That will give you the super wide options on APS-C.
Hi! I have an R10 and i would like to buy the rf-s 18-150 . DO you suggest me to buy an EF lens instead? wich one? Thanks!
I don't normally suggest that for beginners, but a lot of Canon users do suggest that. The older EF L lenses in particular are way better optically than these RF-S lenses, no question, and you can often find a great deal which is also great. However, the lenses are larger, heavier, require an adapter, and do not focus as good for video in particular if that matters to you. If you want a small light weight package they are not the best option, but again optics wise they are incredible options worth considering depending on your needs and use cases. I used my old Canon L lenses for years on my Sony cameras w/ adapters because at the time many years ago Sony did not have that many lenses available for a reasonable price and quality, sol it made a lot of sense to me. SO I can see why many people suggest that considering how there are not many good quality RF-S lenses from Canon yet and the RF L lenses are crazy expensive. It's really about the size, weight, and AF for video I would consider if that matters or not to you. All the best, Jay
@@Jason_Hermann Thank you very much! A perfect explaination. 😄
Could you please make one video using canon r10 with 18 45 mm. How to blur background photos and video. Thank you
Prolly not going to be able to make that video, but the trick is this... set the lens to 45mm and get as close to your subject as you can with the autofocus still working of course... The further the background is from your focused subject, the blurrier the background will be. You saw this effect in the minimum focus distance lab testing where the lights looked like circular balls. It did it at both 18mm and 45mm. I do have a video on that topic, but I'm not using the R10 or that lens... Concept is still the same though if you want to check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/XSWgl8AzorM/v-deo.html I hope that helps and all the best, Jay
@@Jason_Hermann thank you so much .keep the good work.
I'm sorry if i sound like a total newbie which i am but, are all photos out of the camera look ( distorted like in 7:02 ) using these two lenses, and if so what is the software you're using to correct it. really sorry if my questions are silly but I'm just getting into photography.
Please don't ever be sorry asking questions on this channel, as we all start somewhere in this never ending game of learning :) As to your question, if you shoot in Jpeg quality the camera will correct the photos for you automatically, so no distortion. If you shoot raw like I was showing at that timestamp of 7:02 you will have distortion on some lenses worse than others, which can be corrected in post processing. I'm using Adobe Lightroom classic which has that lens profile correction with some tools to fix it and fine tune if needed. All the best an keep asking questions as you have them, happy to help!
@@Jason_Hermann thank you for your kind words and answer 😊
Anytime!
Great info. Would you suggest the 10-18 wide angle lens along with the 18-150? In Canada, the r10 kit comes with the 18-45.
Yes I would! geni.us/Q1TQ
How do you find out what lenses fit on to the adapter that you mentioned in the beginning? Good video btw
They are called Canon EF lenses and you can see all those options here: bhpho.to/3hODU5e Once you find a lens that interests you, I would recommend looking for a used version to save a lot of money!
@@Jason_Hermann thank you so much for the fast reply ! Earned a sub
Have you tried USB-C to headphone jack to check audio during shooting? If the available USB-C to headphone jacks of the phone work in Canon R-10 please let us know. Please
8:33 what kind of fruit is that
It's actually a sorry looking pepper I was growing in my garden...
@@Jason_Hermann thanks thought something else
Hi Jay, I am planning to buy either the Canon R10 with 18-150 kit lens or the ZV-E10 with Sigma 18-50 f2.8 or the kit lens? Which would you suggest between these options?
Between these two cameras for photography I would rather have the Canon R10, but for video I would want the ZV-E10.... A very hard decision considering how many more APS-C lens options you have with Sony... The Canon R10 body is better in my opinion for the ergonomics and with the viewfinder is also a better option for outside photography work in particular. The ZV-E10 however offers better video though when using Slog2 in particular... I made a video about Slog2 here: ua-cam.com/video/jnn82Fhc4Do/v-deo.html
Thank you for the response, really appreciate it. Indeed, a hard decision between these 2 cameras.
What is the difference between an rf-s lens and a normal rf lens?
RF-S lenses are designed for the smaller sensor crop factor cameras like the R7 and R10 for example. RF Lenses are designed for the full frame cameras like the R5, R6 Mark II, R3 for example.
Hi! Is this kit- Canon EOS M50 Mark II + EF-M 18-150 mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM also good? :) Lens seems same.. Thank you!
Yes, it's a great kit, but the M camera system is no longer being developed, so it's a dead system basically. Therefore I would recommend the R50 or R10 instead if you want support for new lenses and firmware updates in the future...
I'm starting out on this and kinda experimenting, do you recomend the 18-45 mm for begginers or do you think I should go for the 18-150 even tho I'm just experimenting?
If you want lighter weight and don't think you will need the additional range then the 18-45mm might be a better option for you. For me, I would go with the 18-135mm kit...
Will this camera be suitable for shooting videos in a classroom for teaching purpose...?
Yeah it can do that for ya.
can you make a video using ef-s 18-135 with canon r7 so that we decide stick with that old lens or go with ne rf-s 18-150 🙏🙏
Quite a bit of vignetting at the 18mm in some of the shots, for both lenses? Second how's the low light performance on both of these.
Low light performance is not the greatest because they are both variable aperture lenses I would say. I prefer fast primes for low light when possible or f/2.8 zooms...
you help me a lot thank you ❤
You're welcome 😊
@@Jason_Hermann 😊
I have a similar lens for my Canon cameras. It doesn't seem to zoom out, though. It does seem to reduce the field of view. Maybe I need a new camera?
Great comparison specially because I'm planning to buy R10
But one more question please
Would this kit lens be good for portrait or makeup photos?
Or you think there is a better lens?
I would get the 50mm 1.8 rf. It’ll only put you back around $150 and will be much better for most portraits and product shots. Hope this helps!
@@tannerjagim4241 or even better, get the adapter and get a 24mm 😂
Проще было сделать переходник с EF-M на RF-S
Hi , am confused between R 50 with rf s 55 - 210 mm lens vs R 10 18 -150 mm , which one should i go for nature photography ?
The better Camera option in my opinion would be the R10 geni.us/ZkET and for Nature the 55-210mm: geni.us/PbfjL0S
Not a fan of plastic base lenses.
8:30 what kind of pepper is this 😂
It's a yellow bell pepper that never really grew...
So what’s the point of Canon even making the 18-45? There has to be some advantages
Well yeah, the 18-45mm is smaller, lighter weight, and cheaper in price which are all advantages ;)
CAN I USE THE ADAPTER FOR A FISH EYE LENSE?
So which one is better for r10?
I am new to my EOS R100. I need a lens for my kids and activities. Would you recommend canon rf-s18-150mm lens or the canon rf-s 55-210mm?
Hello, Unless all your kids activities are all at significant distance, I would recommend the 18-150mm out of those two options.
@@Jason_Hermann I appreciate it. They play soccer, softball and cheer as of right now.
А Где бленда и мешок для объектива. Почему у такого дорогого 18-150 пластиковый байонет. И да эта ужасная юбка.
This video helped me a lot to pick a lens since I’m leaning towards the R10, for me since I don’t record video I’m more for landscape portrait and night photography would you think the RP is better suited? What Lens would you recommend if so to start? I’m bumping up from the iPhone 14 pro to a camera, portability is an issue for me I want something small but better than the iPhone that’s why I was looking at the R10
лучше iPhone ни хера нет!!!
Hey Rui - what did you finally decide on R10 or RP? Which lens? Am facing the same decision for myself now.
Hi Jason. I just ordered the Cannon EOS r50 on Amazon that came with this lens. (18-150mm) Do you think the r50 camera takes as good a shot as the r7/r10 with the same lens. Thanks! I’m a newbie!
Yes I do think they will be very similar in image quality with the same lens... Don't worry about that and get out there using your new awesome camera and lens! 👊
@@Jason_HermannAwesome! Thanks! 👍
I thought I knew what the difference 😂🎉
My 18-45 does not retract to it's compact size. Am I doing something wrong?
Not twisting it with enough force I would guess?
@@Jason_Hermann
Fantastic video. Thanks and regards from Chile
Tnaks and You are very welcome :)
Hi Jason, Great video, I want to buy my first camera and am confused between -CANON R10 RF-S 18-150MM F3.5-6.3 IS STM LENS
and Canon RP 24-105mm 4-7.1 , I need you help 🙂
Well, I would say the Canon RP in my opinion would be better for photography than video, and the R10 is more of a hybrid offering good photos and video with a smaller sensor of course... The RP is the base model full frame camera, where as the R10 has a smaller sensor, but a few more bells and whistles for content creators I would say... I can see why you are having a hard time with the decision and I hope that helps, Jay
Hello Master:
Please help and give me some advice,
The camera I am currently using is Canon EOS R10,
The kit lens used with it is (RF-S18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM)
My main subject matter is toy photography.
The secondary shooting content is street photography or portrait photos.
Now I want to buy new lenses, after watching your video,
Want to compare between Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM and RF85mm F2 Macro IS STM
After making a choice, I would like to ask you to give me some advice on which lens is more suitable for me? Thank you.🙏🙏🙏
Vignetting is horrible on 18-45. It's simple not enough APS-C coverage on wide angle. This is the shame, Canon!
Canon needs more APS-C lenses for sure! Particularly fast wide angle lenses ;)
@@Jason_Hermann I mean this particular lens doesn't fully cover APS-C sensor on 18mm! The level of vignetting in far corners is above reasonable amount.
Yeah, the 18-45mm kit lens is not the greatest and we need more APS-C lenses from Canon asap!! These two lenses at this time are the only options for APS-C native RF-S glass....
Hi Jason, please here are asking important questions and you are not answering them.
They look SO incredibly stupid. I could never own a lens like these. I'd rather adapt EF-S glass. God - they're aweful.