Arched Cabin Build - Foundation Completed | Tiny House
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2022
- With the piers completely cured, we turn our focus toward completion of the foundation for the arched cabin. We have to measure and measure and measure a few more times to be accurate within 1/8 of an inch. We implement a unique way to get rid of the concrete dust, and my help begins colluding for a pay raise. The plywood goes on smoothly, and we put a bow on the completed foundation but only thanks to our Hippie Word of the Day. The long-awaited arched cabin has arrived onsite so stay tuned for the next video!
Amazing. I wish YT made it easier to find such content!
I’ll take that as positive feedback! Be sure to leave a thumbs up as that helps the YT algorithms to get it out. Enjoy the adventure ✌️
I think that red rolling chair is the MVP of this operation.
😂definitely was!
Looking good man, looks like you have plenty of capable help. Really like the "hippie word of the day" too, great personal touch. Be Safe!!
Thanks brother, definitely have a good team helping me! Appreciate the feedback on the Hippie Word of the Day…looks like you have some adventures going on as well, will try to check out some of those videos when things slow down a bit for me
Exellent DIY construction principles - very skilled people in what seems to be a very nice working proces
Thank you! We definitely made a few rookie mistakes along the way but the final product turned out nicely
Awesome!
Thanks!
Great videos, very informative. I notice that the way you've built your subfloor, you will have portions of your piers sticking out relative to the edge of the cabin. Just curious why you chose this method rather than building the subfloor on top of beams, allowing the piers to be moved underneath the cabin. Thanks!
Appreciate the feedback and glad the videos are helpful. No real reason regarding the piers. You can do it either way as you mentioned and I think Arched Cabins may provide an option for beams. I believe if you use steel beams you may have to be able to weld, but I’m not 100% certain as I never really considered going that route. Just something to consider. ✌️
Congrats! Your cabin will be surrounded by trees! Very nice
Yes the front (where the trees are) overlooks the creek too
@@okiehippiefarm 😍
Very nice ....Floor insulation and vapor barrier ?
Looking forward to the build!
Thanks, haven’t added yet but planning to eventually. If you have any recommendations they would be greatly appreciated. More videos coming soon, I’m running behind on getting them posted
I’ve seen brackets that you can embed in the concrete when you pour the piers. Would those eliminate the need to wait 30 days for the curing process?
@Anna Muldoon don’t believe so…usually rebar is used and we did that too but you still wait around 4 weeks for curing to be complete. If you go to Lowes or Home Depot, grab a bag of concrete used for foundations because I think the instructions mention this as well
You definitely could use imbeds. I’ve never seen any that are L brackets like they used but I have seen them that are like a U shape that 6x6s or 4x4s lay in. I believe there are imbed plates that are flat that you can weld an I beam too. Awesome job on your project tho!! Can’t wait to see the finished project. Your videos are inspiring
I'm a fellow okie. I've been watching some of your videos, and I am interested in an arched cabin for our lot here in Porum. About where are you located?
Nice to have another fellow Okie along for the journey. Please contact me via email at
OkieHippieFarm@protonmail.com
Where did you find the brackets at or any more details on them?
I got them at Lowe's. Here is a link. The ones I used were these or something similar.
www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Outdoor-Accents-174-Mission-Collection-174-ZMAX-174-Black-Powder-Coated-90-Angle-for-4x/1002717294
You and I must be close to neighbors.
Maybe so. When I’m not at the cabin, I spend most my time in AR. Not much around me on the OK side. ✌️
I just came across your channel, and I started with this particular video. Although I am not a framer or engineer, I could not help but wonder about the rim joists. In many homes, they are doubled or tripled to increase strength and rigidity. Perhaps I overlooked you doing this, or perhaps double or triple rim joists are unnecessary in this instance.
Welcome to the adventure…the cabin company provides installation instructions and my understanding is that they worked with engineers. These instructions do not call for double or triple rim joists. Although these walls are steel, each wall for my cabin weighed less than 1,000 pounds. Should be good with just one ✌️
@@okiehippiefarm As I viewed additional videos, which I really enjoyed, I also noticed that the second-floor loft also transfers weight to the rim joists. I realize that I might come off as "know it all" but I would strongly urge you to ask an experienced construction professional or structural engineer. It is obvious that the live and dead loads of the floor transfers weight to the rim joists, but the weight of the exterior structure and the weight of the loft do as well. In my view, there will be excessive deflection and the rim joists will ultimately sag. And dimensional lumber often has defects that weaken it. No judgment here just the concern of a friendly viewer. I certainly wish you all the best.
@@scottjackson638 I appreciate your comments and concern and glad to hear you enjoyed the videos…more to come
Yes, I was wondering the same thing. I love your videos and we follow all your updates. I had the same concern regarding the loaded weight all together, incl. Beds, people, snow, ice and wind gusts.
We are considering ourself to do a couple of these cabins, and I am really looking forward to know a little bit more about your findings. According to Arch cabins LLC, everything is possible. But I do not want to get caught up in a sales call, and finding out that real life is totally different. You only got one life, and one time the money to spend. Keep us updated I'm really interested. Thank you for sharing all this with us, we truly enjoy it. Thank you, to the entire crew.
@@BIGVHomestead so sorry but somehow I missed this comment previously…thank you for the kind words, glad you’re enjoying the videos and more to come ✌️
No sill.plates?
From what I’ve read, sill plates are used for 1) anchoring the floor to the concrete and 2) providing weatherproofing for the floor joists. I used angle brackets (see the link below) and anchor bolts to attach the floor to the concrete pillars and later added other material (decking, flashing, hardie plank) which should provide protection against weathering. ✌️
www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Outdoor-Accents-174-Mission-Collection-174-ZMAX-174-Black-Powder-Coated-90-Angle-for-4x/1002717294?idProductFound=false&idExtracted=true
Hello. Concerning foundation. I was wondering if you would mind telling us the total cost of materials as well as total hours of labor, clearing the land and all rentals. I’m curios in costs of doing yourself versus contractors. Also if you could do it over again would you hire contractor for foundation. I plan not to do foundation. We’re building from subfloor up. Thanx
Sure...the cost for the piers (including Auger rental, rebar, concrete, etc.) was a little over $1600. Each pier took around 10 bags of 60 pound concrete (so about 600 pounds for each pier) and a total of 20 piers. The cost of the subfloor was around $3300 and I was purchasing the lumber at the height of lumber costs around April 2022. Since we did all this ourselves, there was no labor cost; however, it did take us about 14 days to get the site ready, measure the locations, and pour all the piers. Looks like it took us about 5-7 days to complete the subfloor. For all this labor, there were about 3 of us working 6 hour days. As far as your question around hiring it out, no. It was hard work but I enjoyed it, especially since this was the one of the first tasks in the whole adventure. In total, I've contracted out the following tasks: framing, installing the metal roofing, electrical, and sheetrock. Hope this helps.
Yes. Very helpful. You and your family are doing an excellent job. Looks great. I have been rewatching your videos over and over so some of the questions you already answered in videos. I really like not only costs etc. but took tips and what to use. I think I will start a list of tools needed, time estimates on each tasks ie; end caps, framing, subfloor, etc. I got excited when you uploaded the drywall. I was able to get hight prospective especially on loft. By the way it appears your height under loft is 9’? Is that about right? And if so doesn’t that take away room as far as curvature of frame. Thanx
@@benjenkins1172 thank you. Yes, my loft begins at 9’ and yes, the curvature is more magnified at that level. Not sure that having it begin at 8’ would help that much. Probably depends on the width of your cabin as well, mine is 24’ wide. My original floor plan had a different layout for my loft closet but I had to do something completely different due to the curvature.
The downstairs curvature is less pronounced and easier to judge depth by videos. If you get a chance would you stand close to loft wall with about 10” above your head then measure from your feet to the wall. I was hoping to get a prospective of curvature headroom and depth area to build my upstairs bathroom. If it’s to much trouble I’m sorry. I plan on small bathroom with toilet, sink and small tiled shower. Our upstairs will be for family and friends who visit. Our downstairs will have a larger bathroom. Thank you very much
@@benjenkins1172 for any room upstairs, I recommend you come out to the middle of the floor (I.e. to the ridge beam). This is what I had to do with my upstairs closet. You might be able to shave off a foot or 2 once you get to framing and better understand your space requirements but shaving off anything more than that will result in a small unusable room. Hope this helps
Did y’all pay the building engineering firm or just wing it?
This was a DIY project for sure. I did hire out some work but no engineering firm. Arched Cabins LLC provides a build manual as well which I believe they have worked with engineering companies to develop. ✌
How high are those pillers?
They are about 2.5-3 feet above ground level
80 hangers..that's a ton of hangers. Why didnt you use girders ontop of the piers? You could have brought in your piers to be under the cabin not hanging out.
Yes, doing 80 hangars in a short time period was definitely exhausting! I’m not familiar with girders, looked them up online and still don’t quite understand. I’m planning to use the piers hanging out to provide support for a deck as well ✌️
@@okiehippiefarm girders would typicaly be build up beams out of 2x material that would sit ontop of the piers then the floor joists would lay on them.
@@BS.-.- interesting, we just never had heard of those so never considered them ✌️
Why Don´t put another screw and bolt in the 2X8, in the joist that have only metal jointer holding them together? I am sorry in saying this, but I don´t think is gonna hold the 2X8, in this actual location you are!
Appreciate your comment and feedback. I’m not 100% certain that I’m following you though. For all the joists, I used joist hangars and if I recall correctly, each hangar has 4 screws holding it and there are 2 hangars for each joist. The hangars have a lip at the bottom that sticks out for the joist to sit upon. Also if you watch the Spiral Staircase video, I added additional support in the form of concrete blocks for areas such as this where there’s a significant amount of weight in one location (staircase, wood stove, etc). I’ve been living in the cabin almost 1 year now and haven’t had any problems with the foundation thankfully. I’ll periodically check things underneath to make sure all is still well. Thanks again ✌️