Dave, Your problem is not compression rings or cylinders walls as those leakdown numbers are good. It is oil control rings and drain holes in the pistons all clogged up. There are upgraded pistons and rings for this, but I think you will be able to get the rings loosened over time with more top down flushes. (What has accumulated over many miles will not easily come out.) Refer to my comments in your clogged cat video.
Hi Dave, I have watched some of your diagnosis of the oil consumption. My V6 Camry 2002 had all the same symptoms changed the valve guide seals still consuming oil and smokey exhaust. I found the valve covers where blocked up in the oil mist separator matrix allowing thick oil mist into PCV system. To fix it valve covers where removed and sent to a local engine shop that had an ultrasonic cleaning tank with aqueous cleaning solution it took two days to clean out sludge from oil separator matrix In valve covers. No oil consumption or fouling spark plugs now. Best regards Michael Halpin
My guess would be long service intervals 10000kms / 6000 miles, low spec /cheap oils & very frequent short distance travel. Oil should be changed 5000 km/3000 miles minimum unless it has only ever run with high quality synthetic oils. The fix is replace it with brand new or remove the cover and ultrasonic cleaning & checking progress with bore-scope. The Valve Cover oil separator matrix is only efficient at it's job when clean. Don't go running some fast fix concoctions that may attack your bearings or seals. Cheers
Dave - As you know I have commented before on your videos! This Corolla series is awesome and I truly appreciate your work on this. I have also appreciated the rest of your videos. Keep up the good work!
I added a catch can after positive crankcase ventilation valve before it returns to intake manifold. This allowed me to calculate the oil loss to intake manifold it was a very significant amount 250mls over two or three days and it stopped the smoke at the exhaust. This diagnosed the blocked valve cover oil separator matrix that needed to be cleaned. Regards Michael H
First time I have heard of this. How did you clean the oil separator? Spray brake cleaner into PCV hole (with valve cover off)? Edit: Nevermind, I just saw your comments about the ultrasonic cleaning.
Check first with the catch can method oil added at top up to oil collection, my catch can had a drain tap for daily monitoring of oil loss, you could be looking at multiple oil consumption areas this is just one. After my covers oil separator was cleaned consumption of oil dropped to 5mls collection after two days. I never have preconceived ideas for oil consumption anymore as it's easy to be misdiagnosed like I have, valve guide seals turned out as 1/3rd of my oil consumption and 2/3rd clogged valve cover oil separator matrix. I've learnt from my many mistakes.
Look with a bore-scope inside intake manifold at the junction of PCV system if it's wet your valve covers aren't separating oil / combustion gas mist . A catch container will show you how much oil is lost to the intake manifold and deposited into combustion chamber. I've fixed two oil burner Toyota engines same problem lot's of wasted time and bad advice, l like your channel very well done keep up the good work. Michael H
Great attention to detail. Excellent. Two observations. The cat is plugged, in spite to small exhaust flow opening in the center of the cat. The rest of the cat has burnt oil on it. Run 30 or 40 wt. Oil to alleviate the oil loss and blow by
All vehicles will have blow by to some degree, it's normal I wouldn't worry to much about that, what you are mostly looking for is smoke. Motors will move air, push some out, pull it back in as it cycles that is normal even with brand new motors. You really can't see air movement vs blow by unless there is smoke, generally if you have significant blow by it will lift the dip stick out of the holder. Some build up of pressure is unavoidable, as PCV is on all vehicles, there is a few methods to test blow by beyond air movement. Put something air tight over it (like a trash bag) and see if the bag inflates, another method is using a clear hose, attach it to the crankcase, either the dipstick or preferable oil cap, run it to a bucket and fill it with water. Turn the motor on and shove the hose underwater, you should ideally see the hose pull in a small amount of water, and repeatedly push it back out. You can gauge blow by by the amount of air bubbles, the lower the amount the better, though there should be some regardless.
Here's my hypothesis from whatever limited mechanical knowledge I have. I see where you have changed the valve stem oil SEALS but I think that the actual problem is worn out valve STEMS. It could be that they now have the shape of a Coke bottle. Maybe not quite that bad but I think you might get the picture. The 220psi from the compression test seems to me like a lot but honestly I don't know what is normal for these motors. It got me thinking at what point is high compression relative to high vacuum? Like a lot of other things the oil is going through the point of least resistance on it's way to the cylinder. Could it be that the valve oil seals, while new, are allowing oil to seep past them in a "high vacuum" condition due to the poor mating surface between valve stem and oil seals? Furthermore could the valve guides be part of the problem as well? What would be a safe way to pressurize the crankcase and perform a crankcase pressure leak down test while the motor is turning over? Thank you for posting this video and if you read my long winded comment all the way to down here thanks for hearing me out.
That is normally almost every Toyota I have owned since 1993 even new does that has blow by out the oil fill cap. None of them had oil consumption issues or coolant leaks. The reason the sound changes is that with the oil cap off the pressure in the system is changing and you know have a massive vacuum leak as well. Air coming out of the dipstick tube is normal windage from crank and rods rotating. Some engines even cut windage windows or ports into the lower portion of the block to direct that air like the Corvettes Blocks with LS and latter blocks especially on the higher power output versions. On a V8 drawing a hard vacuum on the bottom of the engine alone can gain you 50HP due to less windage and better ring seal. That is one of the advantages of a dry sump so much so NASCAR and other racing bodies have to limited how much pump can be run on the dry sump because people would get crazy with it.That is also why we have windage trays and knife edged cranks it is not just the movement of those parts through oil but also air. I am only 4 minutes in and I do not think it is your head gaskets. Rings and Guides would be my guess!
I recently got a 99 RAV for free that had been sitting years with broken TB, got her back on the road but man 1 qt/300 miles. Been ripping it and that seems to be helping, some barrymans in crankcase now. I’ll be trying some of your ideas too!
B12 in crankcase won’t do to the trick, it has to be in the cylinder. Simply take out all spark plugs and put 2 ounces of b12 in each cylinders (should be half of can) then put a 19mm socket on the crank bolt and turn the motor by ratchet clock wise for 5 full rotations slowly. Then put 2 more ounces of b12 in each cylinder until u use up the whole can and let it sit and soak for 24 hrs. (Yes the longer the better). U just have to turn the crank bolt over 5 full rotations every 6 hrs or so to let the chemical pass into the piston rings grooves land. After 24 hrs. U will just have find a way to extract those b12 chemicals left in the cylinders. The way I did it was put some old rags loosely over each cylinder holes and pulled the EFI fuse from the fuse box and crank the motor over with the key for 15- 30 secs each time until there’s absolutely NO b12 left in each cylinders! U can crank and pause it between and check the cylinder for fluids level, cover hole with rags and crank the motor again and repeat until there’s NO fluids left. Now put everything back, and make sure there’s no fluids left in the cylinder then start the motor up. It will have hard time starting but keep cranking and press the gas pedal a few times it will start eventually. Then take a drive immediately on a high way doing 60mph in 3rd gear rpm close to redline for 20 mins then go back home and perform a fresh oil change with new oil filter. This will fix oil burning problems after 2, 3 treatments. Wait for his next video to find out yourself
So cool to be part of this whole series of oil burning! I watched them all and everyone of them is very educational. As commented before it remains my guess that the rings are worn. Just like James D suggests. That little blowby that you noticed with the tissue does not seem much to me. Blowby can be really violent until the moment where it will even push your dipstick out on its own. I am really curious about the chemical treatment with B12 or alternatively BG 44K. I hope you will be able to dissolve the burned oil with those chemicals! One thing I was wondering, did you ever smell the old oil before replacing it? Does it smell like gasoline? That is also a good indicator that the oil rings are not functioning as they should. Good luck and I will keep following you!
Plz do us a favor; can you fix it so that the episode nbr is in every Corolla video, so we can be sure we are viewing them in order? EXCELLANT series. Very much enjoying it. Bob
For head gasket check you can also do a sniff test which tests for exhaust gasses being present in the coolant. Hg failure doesn't always mix oil and coolant (although in fairness I think most times that does happen!)
BG Engine restore. I think I mentioned it at the beginning of the video. I'm going to do this on my 02 Corolla and make a video once I get the product. It ain't cheap so may take me a bit.
Oil/carbon build up in the ring lands can also cause a increase in compression anyways, there is many variables but compression regardless is fairly even among all cylinders which is surprising. I know you have tried many things, however High Performance Lubricant's make an ester based motor oil, ester has a natural tendency to clean really well, while being a motor oil it is very polar and will act like a solvent. Their whole line is ester based, they even have a cleaning oil you add to normal motor oil to help clean the motor out, folks online have tried it and cut open the oil filters to show a lot of carbon/sludge in them. It's like $15 for a single quart mixed 4 parts (your choice) motor oil to 1 part cleaner (it is motor oil just ester based) the shipping is like $10 but it's meant to help pre-clean the motor before folks switch over to their motor oils to reduce the likelihood of excessive cleaning, and clogging the oil pump pick up screen. If you contact them, mention these videos, and ask them they may provide a free sample, folks in forums have mentioned it help reduce oil consumption a good bit.
@@redneck4528 No he didn't. You don't just crank the engine over dozens of time and let the gauge build pressure. You are supposed to turn the engine over 5 revolutions and stop. I've been doing this for 35 years. I know what I'm doing.
dave i just got my teenage daughter the same car and it has oil consumption. im looking forward yo my own experiments. first of which will be kano kreen. its on amazon now.
You have great compression, and it's likely caused by the bad oil rings. They're supposed to scrape the oil back down into the crankcase. They get filled up with carbon/gunk and get seized and don't conform to the cylinder wall like they should anymore. When they don't operate like they are supposed to, they leave the oil on the walls, and it's like doing a wet compression test, which will be higher than the spec. This is why you are burning oil. Scotty Kilmer has a friend who makes a product that might really help out with this. It's kind of expensive, but if you want to try something before replacing the rings, this is worth a shot. Also, have you tried using Berryman's in the engine oil itself yet? Scotty's Video : ua-cam.com/video/c-babZWqH34/v-deo.html Link to product : www.atschemicals.com/505-pour-ins Different engine, but a great explanation on Toyota Rings, and what can happen, especially with overdue oil changes. Explanation on Toyota oil rings : ua-cam.com/video/TJhFAwFv-O0/v-deo.html
Dave i hope you havent finished the b12 test yet. berryman also has instructions on their website for flushing the engine oil with it. you might check it out. maybe do both a flush and piston soak
Oil control rings. Try dumping some of that chemical carburetor cleaner in plug wells and letting it soak before next oil change. Seafoam probably wasn't strong enough. By now you could have just torn the whole engine apart and replaced everything.
Hey I just had a random thought. I wonder if you could put some WD40 in the cyl, and then put pressure into cyl, see if you can force the cleaner into rings??
Another good way to clean top of the the piston is carb cleaner! Unplug the brake booster hose and slip the straw in the hose and reconnect the hose back to the brake booster. While another person hold the rpm at 2500-3000 with engine running, u just simply spray the whole can of carb cleaner until it’s empty then feel the difference it made after
when doing this in your case gives a faulty test sinds the cilinder wall and piston are coated in oil. I also heard of something new and that is steam cleaning from inside the engine dont ask how but its possible.
Dave, good testing process. You touched on all the leak test points, and the carbon buildup in the combustion chamber too. Good stuff. Maybe you will be able to decarbon the engine.
HI DAVE, want to do the additive you added into the old and drove 20 min. on the freeway. Please tell exactly which Berryman b12 chemtool you used. It looked like you used the fuel injector cleaner into the oil. The company they have an oil change flush #1216 that you would let car run for 20 min. This one is hard to find.
Bad oil rings doesn't mean bad compression rings. I have rebuilt many engines burning oil with perfect compression rings over my 50 years repairing all types of engines.
Hi, Love your videos! Got a Corolla 2001 with the same issue, oil burning!! Time for the annual emissiontest, didn't pass as I expected the cat was clogged!! Had a used from a Opel 2.2 laying around, much more power, better milage, No check engine and well se if anything happens with the oil burning!!! Hope i'll pass when i revisit the testcenter, if i dont it will break my hurt to scrap it..... Good luck!! Claus from sweden
It passed the emissiontest, 0,7 ltr of oil/1200km much better!! I'm gonna try egr-cleaner trough the spark-plug holes and let it soak over the weekend! We use it at work to clean egr-coolers on Hyundai GDI-engines, really powerful stuff, hopefully it can get a little bit better! Regards Claus
My brand new car blows a bunch of air out of the oil fill, some engines just do that, especially 4 cylinders. It's just windage from the rotating assembly and piston strokes.
Borescope camera!...a very useful tool for the DIY person! You can look inside your engine, look inside your bathroom and kitchen drains, look inside your walls, EVERYWHERE! Best tool we've invented since the stone axe! Thanks, Dave, for turning me on to this...they just didn't have toys like this when I was a kid! I'm a ways behind you in the process of discovery of what's causing my particular Toyota 1ZZ-FE's oil consumption. I was last replacing the valve seals, which WERE horribly cooked on the exhaust side...and ran into a bit of a stupidity roadblock. If you look at the short video of mine, that I'll link below, you MAY see the problem, IF you're sharp! Yeah, THAT stupidity roadblock! I'm not done scheming a way out of that little issue yet, but the video isn't so much about that as it is about the condition of the piston crown, valves, and cylinder walls...along with the really decent, for now, WiFi bore scope I got for $37 and change. I'm gonna sit on the borescope link (for all'Y'All's protection) for a while as I finish this project...if it continues to work as well as it has initially, I will gladly share a link. My short video...bet you can't find the latest issue! :D ua-cam.com/video/CoHTGQQOxcI/v-deo.html
@@dickbutt7854 Indeed he did, that's why I thanked DIY Dave at the end of the first paragraph for turning me on to borescopes. I hadn't realized that they had gotten so small that you can shove one down a 5.5mm valve guide!!
and Clearly blow by on the rings. Oil is pushed into the intake through the PCV and some oil leaks past the rings on the intake stroke. The ring cleaners that were tested did not work. Now you can test all of the other ring cleaners.
Previous video in this series: Catalytic converter testing: ua-cam.com/video/OoxPeJ6VA9M/v-deo.html Next video in this series: Will Berryman's B12 Chemtool stop the oil burning?: ua-cam.com/video/EG70jHiT-S0/v-deo.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
In one of your other videos I saw that your short term fuel trim was high (+8 to +10% at idle) Can you post short & long term fuel trims at both idle and 2,500 rpm? The interesting thing is I also have high fuel trims & the cat code. Maybe it's time to invest in a smoke machine.
I have a strange issue with my engine Min sped for hot compression test is 133 standard value is 188 My tests are #1 130psi #2 133psi #3 140psi #4 136psi My leak down test is #1 24% (rings) #2 10% (rings) #3 10% (rings) #4 14% (rings) I'm trying to figure out why my compression is kinda low on all cylinders but the leak down test is in spec
I can tell you that when I had a carboned up cylinder on my van, the compression went from 190 (normal for honda 3.5 V6) to 220. Just from carboning. I'm on the page that your high oil consumption and carbon residue is the reason for the higher readings.
I have a 2003 celica gt 1zz-fe. It only has 100,000 kms and the exact same thing is happening with mine as his. Taken it to multiple shops and nothing has come up. Money is tight rn so I’m trying to figure out what is the issue for as cheap as possible
I posted an earlier comment but after giving it some thought I believe you just caught the culprit on camera. I said believe so I could be wrong but here's another education guess. The problem, or part of it, is likely the pistons themselves. The groove in which the piston rings sit are now tapered. Going back to what I said in my other comment about many things follow the path of least resistance. The reason why you got an improvement in your reading, on two different cylinders, is because the force of the incoming test air forced the piston (oil) rings to seat where they're supposed to seat. The oil rings aren't stuck open, the inside of the oil rings has worn out the mating surface that it sits on in a tapered fashion. I truly appreciate you posting these videos. It's a learning experience for me. I didn't see if you had taken notice of which spark plugs had oil on them but it would be interesting to see if the same ones that have oil on them come off of the same cylinders that have improving leak down tests. Thank you for reading 😊
I read every word of both of your comments. Interesting theories! I think it’s cool how recording enough information about a particular subject can inadvertently provide data/evidence for multiple (and sometimes seemingly unrelated) hypotheses. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 The comment section is akin to a think tank. Thanks for posting!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for your reply. You're welcome The only other thing that I can think of is using smoke somehow and check cylinder by cylinder
Think if chemtool doesnt do its magic redline wont help, i personally wouldnt do it just to be safe. If chemtool doesnt fix just plan engine rebuild of some sort so we see what is wrong, and as you say may not be too much Petrol engines have vacuum in intake so opening cranckcase lets some excess air in and thats why engine sounds different. Even if there is blowby it could be sucked in by intake if not too significant. I did the same test on my oil burning diesel which has all symptoms like yours, and since there is no intake vacum i get considerable smoke on dipstick, especially when fully warmed up engine
Dave it should be leaking air. Not enough leakage should mean it's not getting past the rings or through the oil return holes So those ones with low leakage should line up with the plugged rings. That is my understanding anyway. The air goes though the ring gaps and then leaks between the cylinder and the piston. The oil return holes should allow much more air past than the gap between cylinder and piston I read about another B12 recipe which is to do a soak and then a leak down test to clear the oil return holes.
Hi Dave, is there any chance you might run the bore-scope past the throttle body into the intake manifold runners to look at any oil deposits in the intake runners and valve area's. Please. Michael H
Could it be that your cheap leakdown tester uses way to low pressure? You should have been able to reproduce the air flow out of the oil cap which you forgot to check during the leakdown test?
Why is the left meter on the leak down tester only showing 30 psi (@ 12:16) when the air compressor is feeding your tester with 100 psi? Are you not letting the full 100 psi into each cylinder to perform the test? Is 30 psi adequate pressure?
I did a little research on this, and I think it's a couple of things: (1) Pressure drop from using two 50' lengths of hose from the compressor (2) These new cheaper testers (for amateurs) cut the supply pressure by 50% because (from what I understand) pressures higher than 30-40 PSI are likely to spin the engine.
I know I’ve made a few comments before on my opinions. But as others have mentioned above, l would be interested in what a catch can would catch 🤔. Would definitely make some Amazing UA-cam videos… 😉
the oil rings are clogged. for fun and good content, how about you pull the head, and pan. pull the pistons and soak them in b 12 for a day or two. see if that clears out the oil drain holes. then put them back in. other than that its back to soak the pistons with break clean or b12.
BTW, I live at Hawaii, so it doesn't get cold here. I can get away with 30-40 wt oil. I repair a 87 corrola with 200 k. No oil loss after using 40 wt No leaks, no burning oil. More power, lower emissions
It’s not true. Redline or rev limiter is a cut off limits set by manufacturers that protects engine over revving what is designed to. It’s a safe zone as long as u don’t rev pass the limit, or pass redline limiter then u r fine. If u think running the engine to redline is bad, then all of the people that take their cars to the track and do racing will have serious engine damage right after. In fact, those who run their cars at the track or do racing event will always have a healthier engines than most people who just drive their cars conservatively or never rev pass 5000 rpm because gasoline is a good carbon cleaner, but people just don’t realize engines needs high rpm to do it’s job or stripping off the carbon buildup within Combustion chamber, catalytic converter holes, injector holes etc. running at redline for 20 mins won’t hurt anything as long as your engine is in “working” conditions (radiator, fan, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, injection…all working). Running to the redline occasionally is a best tuneup u can do to keep your engine healthy.
@@sidwalker6902 well let’s wait for his next Corolla video coming up and see who’s BSing. I can guarantee he will cut down his oil consumption for 3/4 after 1st treatment with B12 and redlining for 20 mins. I did exactly that to my oil burning 07 Scion tC with the known poor piston rings designs 2az-fe motor and after 2 treatments, it completely fixed it with no oil consumption between 5000 miles oil change interval
@@sidwalker6902 found the guy who hasnt heard of the italian tuneup. It works on daily drivers that very rarely see speeds over 30. The high fuel use and load of speed help dislodge carbon buildup. Its not a perfect process, but it does help
So your compression rings are fine. It’s the oil rings especially #3. Whatever chemical you try. You need to let it soak PAST the compression rings to the oil rings.. this might take 24-48 hours. And motor flush b4 every oil change and thinner oil. But if you’ve ever been to a machine shop and see what carbon buildup does to rings… think “epoxy stuck”. If flushing and thinner oil doesn’t work over time…. You will have to re-ring it. Watch other utube vids on these Toyota oil rings… it’s not a mystery… it’s a known issue… and the people who get it done too down soak soak soak
Take spark plugs out, take sump off. Spray oven cleaner foam and egr valve cleaner must contain xylene. Pour into cylinder let it soak through down cylinder walls and piston rings for a two days. Crank engine repeat on the other two pistons. Once your happy all foam/egr valve cleaner is through pistons and cylinder walls and dropped into the bucket below. Refit sump oil filter and new oil. Your engine or stuck piston rings will be carbon free and operate as normal.
Your engine is burning oil. When you have oil in combustion chamber the compression is increased. That is why your reading are but high. This is what I guess
You don't have enough carbon on top of the piston to increase the compression test, the lack of carbon around the edges of the piston top tells the story. It's called piston wash and it's because of the crankcase oil getting past the rings and washing the top of the piston clean.
My vote is to buy inexpensive synthetic oil in bulk from Amazon or Costco and keep adding MMO or another engjne treatment with each oil change. Of course, I make this same comment in each one of the videos in this series 😉 After all these engine treatments do you seriously still have carbon buildup in the combustion chamber? Close to redline will be ok. Doesn’t have to be right on redline.
Great job on these videos..I really enjoy watching you go threw the experiments ..and I'm hoping something is going to actually work...but it's not... motor is toast..I left a link below on my favorite way to fix the oil burning 1zz... The 1ZZ-FED is similar to the 1ZZ-FE but is built separately in the Shimoyama plant. Toyota's advertised power output is 140 bhp (142 PS; 104 kW) at 6,400 rpm and 127 lb⋅ft (172 N⋅m) of torque at 4,400 rpm. Additional power output over the 1ZZ-FE is accomplished by larger valves and corresponding revisions to the ports...it's a bolt in for your Corolla..you will be very happy with your MRS Corolla if you do this.. this is how I fix these little oil burners and you should too... ua-cam.com/video/8_qz7tI6tbQ/v-deo.html
For sh!ts and giggles you could get a couple gallons of diesel fuel and do a soak and then a flush. Drain your oil first. Would be cheaper than the other chemicals and you would get the benefit of the lower end and oil pan sludge reduced. I think the oil control rings are gummed up and the drain holes in the pistons are clogged up. Good luck.
No reason to redo compression test you have done those more than once.Clearly the problem is that the oil control rings are not scraping the oil off the cylinder walls so it burns off. No you do not have enough carbon on your piston stops for carbon to be raising the compression. You can clearly see the tops of your pistons are clean. Your leakdown test was just fine.
You aren't using the gauge right. You need to connect it and raise the regulated pressure slowly to 100% after the engine is already at TDC on compression. Your first gauge is regulated pressure, your second gauge comes after a restrictor and is observed pressure. The 20% correlates to 80PSI, 40 is 60PSI, etc... In other words if you apply 100PSI to the cylinder, and there is 10% leakage, the gauge is observing 90PSI in the cylinder. Your observation gauge should never read higher then the regulated side pressure reading.
I agree. 100psi in, and it measures 90 psi in the cyl = 10% leakage. 80% in cyl = 20% leakage. And so on. There is no freakin' way that engine has less than 20% leakage.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Um every manual is either going to be slightly different but all gauges work the same. Some gauges may be able to be "calibrated" as in correcting the needles if they are off. But your leak down test has to take place at TDC of the compression stroke. TDC of the intake stroke will have the intake valve open as it begins to open before TDC. There is valve overlap on every stroke except during compression. And most of the wear in the cylinder is at TDC due to combustion hence testing TDC on compression, not exhaust. You need to hookup the gauge, and verify that you set your regulated pressure to 100, your observed pressure (gauge 2) will tell you how much of that pressure the cylinder is holding. Word of the wise is TDC of the compression stroke is gonne be hard to get. A few degrees of crankshaft movement is all it takes for the valve that is closed to start opening, and depending on the slack in the chain/belt you won't see that by just having the crank lined up at TDC. I would suggest getting it to TDC, slowly increasing the pressure, then holding the crank with a long breaker bar, moving it back and forth slightly to verify your valves are closed. Alternatively the best way to perform this test is with the valve cover off so you can feel if the rockers are loose and off the lobes. I would link you a manual but mine is at work, its a snap-on, and snap-on doesn't list their manuals online. And I have a chrysler training book that just refers you to reading the manual itself for calibration. lol
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I would also add that engines compression is going to be 130psi and higher typically. For instance my engine is 9.5:1 it compresses air 9.5 times. So at sea level it takes 14.7psi X 9.5 = 139.65. So this engine should produce near 140 psi of compression. That is A LOT when compared to everything else (coolant being no higher then 22psi typically) so you won't find a leak using 20psi.... that gasket needs to hold much more during combustion!
Okay, did a little research: I found there are two types of dual gauge testers. The older, traditional style, which, as you said, shows regulated pressure on the first gauge, and observed pressure on the second ... and then there's the tester for dummies, like I used. The first gauge reads cylinder pressure, and the second gauge is purely percentage loss. You can used anywhere from 45 to 100 psi with this gauge, which is why it must be zeroed to the incoming pressure. If you noticed, when the kit was hooked up to my compressor, the first gauge read 30 psi, since 30psi was the pressure it was "ready" to send to the cylinder, and then as soon as I hooked it up to the cylinder, it dropped to roughly 27psi, as (due to some leakage) the cylinder couldn't hold the full 30 psi the kit was trying to send it. The second gauge was therefore reading the correct percentage drop of 10ish percent (as 27psi is 90 percent of 30psi). Here's a link on how to use the style of gauge I used: ua-cam.com/video/WHli-wLy9_o/v-deo.html Here's a link to a video on how to use the other type of dual gauge tester. ua-cam.com/video/J9aKM4znvWU/v-deo.html Thoughts?
You are doing the compression test incorrectly. You do 5 rotations on the compression stroke, not just let it crank and crank. When you do the test properly you will see much lower compression.
No visible leaks outside the engine, no oil in the coolant, only other possibility is it's burning. Technically leaking by something, but internal to the engine
I'm not a fan of that cheesy leakdown tester. Stop listening to the armchair mechanics , just hone it , and re-ring it... End of oil burning guaranteed
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That's not the correct way to do a leak down test. You don't pre-pressurize the leak down regulator. You back the leak down tool regulator all the way down to zero psi FIRST. Then hook up the leak down tester tool to the cylinder under test. Then slowly adjust the leak down tester regulator until it shows 100 psi on the left gauge, the right gauge tells you the results.... You need to redo the test
your car runs to wellll to be head gasket,most times head gaskets either jump between cylinders or water jacket ports in head and block , and pressure will will make hoses get hard from blowby pressure .,i would say oil control rings are at fault , allso no overheat problems from head gat sket leaks,,it would not be oil filling cylinders
Dave, Your problem is not compression rings or cylinders walls as those leakdown numbers are good. It is oil control rings and drain holes in the pistons all clogged up. There are upgraded pistons and rings for this, but I think you will be able to get the rings loosened over time with more top down flushes. (What has accumulated over many miles will not easily come out.) Refer to my comments in your clogged cat video.
Several had mentioned this in the beginning; but I guess he needs content for UA-cam.
@@tdgdbs1 the first thing he did was attempt unclog and unstick the rings...
@@dickbutt7854 they’re not gunna just free up in 1 go he has to keep trying. he was burning hella oil when he started these vids.
Oil rings or ring in #3 bad, compression rings fine… known Toyota issue.
Any links to the upgraded pistons and rings?
Hi Dave, I have watched some of your diagnosis of the oil consumption. My V6 Camry 2002 had all the same symptoms changed the valve guide seals still consuming oil and smokey exhaust. I found the valve covers where blocked up in the oil mist separator matrix allowing thick oil mist into PCV system. To fix it valve covers where removed and sent to a local engine shop that had an ultrasonic cleaning tank with aqueous cleaning solution it took two days to clean out sludge from oil separator matrix In valve covers. No oil consumption or fouling spark plugs now. Best regards Michael Halpin
Worth a try. At least he’ll see how hard carbon is at the machine shop if he asks to see stuck rings.
Hi Michael! thank you for the info. What would cause this to happen? is there an easier way to fix it without removing valve cover?
My guess would be long service intervals 10000kms / 6000 miles, low spec /cheap oils & very frequent short distance travel. Oil should be changed 5000 km/3000 miles minimum unless it has only ever run with high quality synthetic oils. The fix is replace it with brand new or remove the cover and ultrasonic cleaning & checking progress with bore-scope. The Valve Cover oil separator matrix is only efficient at it's job when clean. Don't go running some fast fix concoctions that may attack your bearings or seals. Cheers
Dave - As you know I have commented before on your videos! This Corolla series is awesome and I truly appreciate your work on this. I have also appreciated the rest of your videos. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much, Glenn. I really appreciate it!
I added a catch can after positive crankcase ventilation valve before it returns to intake manifold. This allowed me to calculate the oil loss to intake manifold it was a very significant amount 250mls over two or three days and it stopped the smoke at the exhaust. This diagnosed the blocked valve cover oil separator matrix that needed to be cleaned. Regards Michael H
Good point
First time I have heard of this. How did you clean the oil separator? Spray brake cleaner into PCV hole (with valve cover off)? Edit: Nevermind, I just saw your comments about the ultrasonic cleaning.
Check first with the catch can method oil added at top up to oil collection, my catch can had a drain tap for daily monitoring of oil loss, you could be looking at multiple oil consumption areas this is just one. After my covers oil separator was cleaned consumption of oil dropped to 5mls collection after two days. I never have preconceived ideas for oil consumption anymore as it's easy to be misdiagnosed like I have, valve guide seals turned out as 1/3rd of my oil consumption and 2/3rd clogged valve cover oil separator matrix.
I've learnt from my many mistakes.
Look with a bore-scope inside intake manifold at the junction of PCV system if it's wet your valve covers aren't separating oil / combustion gas mist . A catch container will show you how much oil is lost to the intake manifold and deposited into combustion chamber. I've fixed two oil burner Toyota engines same problem lot's of wasted time and bad advice, l like your channel very well done keep up the good work. Michael H
Great attention to detail.
Excellent.
Two observations.
The cat is plugged, in spite to small exhaust flow opening in the center of the cat. The rest of the cat has burnt oil on it.
Run 30 or 40 wt. Oil to alleviate the oil loss and blow by
All vehicles will have blow by to some degree, it's normal I wouldn't worry to much about that, what you are mostly looking for is smoke. Motors will move air, push some out, pull it back in as it cycles that is normal even with brand new motors. You really can't see air movement vs blow by unless there is smoke, generally if you have significant blow by it will lift the dip stick out of the holder.
Some build up of pressure is unavoidable, as PCV is on all vehicles, there is a few methods to test blow by beyond air movement. Put something air tight over it (like a trash bag) and see if the bag inflates, another method is using a clear hose, attach it to the crankcase, either the dipstick or preferable oil cap, run it to a bucket and fill it with water. Turn the motor on and shove the hose underwater, you should ideally see the hose pull in a small amount of water, and repeatedly push it back out.
You can gauge blow by by the amount of air bubbles, the lower the amount the better, though there should be some regardless.
Excellent work as always! glad that the compression is healthy.
A leak down test is really not the same as a compression test. Not at all. You can have a positive leak down test and your compression test sucks.
Wish I was your neighbor, I’d help you overhaul the engine…
Love your car videos 😉
I have had good results using Restore for worn rings / cylinder walls.
Here's my hypothesis from whatever limited mechanical knowledge I have. I see where you have changed the valve stem oil SEALS but I think that the actual problem is worn out valve STEMS. It could be that they now have the shape of a Coke bottle. Maybe not quite that bad but I think you might get the picture.
The 220psi from the compression test seems to me like a lot but honestly I don't know what is normal for these motors. It got me thinking at what point is high compression relative to high vacuum?
Like a lot of other things the oil is going through the point of least resistance on it's way to the cylinder. Could it be that the valve oil seals, while new, are allowing oil to seep past them in a "high vacuum" condition due to the poor mating surface between valve stem and oil seals? Furthermore could the valve guides be part of the problem as well? What would be a safe way to pressurize the crankcase and perform a crankcase pressure leak down test while the motor is turning over?
Thank you for posting this video and if you read my long winded comment all the way to down here thanks for hearing me out.
That is normally almost every Toyota I have owned since 1993 even new does that has blow by out the oil fill cap. None of them had oil consumption issues or coolant leaks. The reason the sound changes is that with the oil cap off the pressure in the system is changing and you know have a massive vacuum leak as well. Air coming out of the dipstick tube is normal windage from crank and rods rotating. Some engines even cut windage windows or ports into the lower portion of the block to direct that air like the Corvettes Blocks with LS and latter blocks especially on the higher power output versions.
On a V8 drawing a hard vacuum on the bottom of the engine alone can gain you 50HP due to less windage and better ring seal. That is one of the advantages of a dry sump so much so NASCAR and other racing bodies have to limited how much pump can be run on the dry sump because people would get crazy with it.That is also why we have windage trays and knife edged cranks it is not just the movement of those parts through oil but also air.
I am only 4 minutes in and I do not think it is your head gaskets. Rings and Guides would be my guess!
Excellent. Thank you
I recently got a 99 RAV for free that had been sitting years with broken TB, got her back on the road but man 1 qt/300 miles. Been ripping it and that seems to be helping, some barrymans in crankcase now. I’ll be trying some of your ideas too!
Use thinner oil to flush it.
@@pinonnut how thin you think?
B12 in crankcase won’t do to the trick, it has to be in the cylinder. Simply take out all spark plugs and put 2 ounces of b12 in each cylinders (should be half of can) then put a 19mm socket on the crank bolt and turn the motor by ratchet clock wise for 5 full rotations slowly. Then put 2 more ounces of b12 in each cylinder until u use up the whole can and let it sit and soak for 24 hrs. (Yes the longer the better). U just have to turn the crank bolt over 5 full rotations every 6 hrs or so to let the chemical pass into the piston rings grooves land.
After 24 hrs. U will just have find a way to extract those b12 chemicals left in the cylinders. The way I did it was put some old rags loosely over each cylinder holes and pulled the EFI fuse from the fuse box and crank the motor over with the key for 15- 30 secs each time until there’s absolutely NO b12 left in each cylinders! U can crank and pause it between and check the cylinder for fluids level, cover hole with rags and crank the motor again and repeat until there’s NO fluids left.
Now put everything back, and make sure there’s no fluids left in the cylinder then start the motor up. It will have hard time starting but keep cranking and press the gas pedal a few times it will start eventually. Then take a drive immediately on a high way doing 60mph in 3rd gear rpm close to redline for 20 mins then go back home and perform a fresh oil change with new oil filter.
This will fix oil burning problems after 2, 3 treatments. Wait for his next video to find out yourself
So cool to be part of this whole series of oil burning! I watched them all and everyone of them is very educational. As commented before it remains my guess that the rings are worn. Just like James D suggests. That little blowby that you noticed with the tissue does not seem much to me. Blowby can be really violent until the moment where it will even push your dipstick out on its own.
I am really curious about the chemical treatment with B12 or alternatively BG 44K. I hope you will be able to dissolve the burned oil with those chemicals!
One thing I was wondering, did you ever smell the old oil before replacing it? Does it smell like gasoline? That is also a good indicator that the oil rings are not functioning as they should.
Good luck and I will keep following you!
Much appreciated :-) ... The oil does smell a little tainted with gasoline.
Plz do us a favor; can you fix it so that the episode nbr is in every Corolla video, so we can be sure we are viewing them in order?
EXCELLANT series. Very much enjoying it.
Bob
Great viedo. As a side note, I put trans in 4 th gear and set emergency brake. Now engine cannot rotate when putting air pressure into cylinder.
Good tip!
Seeing air come out of the oil fill was a wow moment for me.
For head gasket check you can also do a sniff test which tests for exhaust gasses being present in the coolant. Hg failure doesn't always mix oil and coolant (although in fairness I think most times that does happen!)
BG Engine restore. I think I mentioned it at the beginning of the video. I'm going to do this on my 02 Corolla and make a video once I get the product. It ain't cheap so may take me a bit.
Always look forward to these videos!
Glad to hear it!
Oil/carbon build up in the ring lands can also cause a increase in compression anyways, there is many variables but compression regardless is fairly even among all cylinders which is surprising.
I know you have tried many things, however High Performance Lubricant's make an ester based motor oil, ester has a natural tendency to clean really well, while being a motor oil it is very polar and will act like a solvent. Their whole line is ester based, they even have a cleaning oil you add to normal motor oil to help clean the motor out, folks online have tried it and cut open the oil filters to show a lot of carbon/sludge in them.
It's like $15 for a single quart mixed 4 parts (your choice) motor oil to 1 part cleaner (it is motor oil just ester based) the shipping is like $10 but it's meant to help pre-clean the motor before folks switch over to their motor oils to reduce the likelihood of excessive cleaning, and clogging the oil pump pick up screen.
If you contact them, mention these videos, and ask them they may provide a free sample, folks in forums have mentioned it help reduce oil consumption a good bit.
Thanks for the suggestion!
G oil is also Esther based
he's doing the compression test wrong, that's why it's so high.
@@robertschulz5293 no, he did the compression test correctly
@@redneck4528 No he didn't. You don't just crank the engine over dozens of time and let the gauge build pressure. You are supposed to turn the engine over 5 revolutions and stop. I've been doing this for 35 years. I know what I'm doing.
dave i just got my teenage daughter the same car and it has oil consumption. im looking forward yo my own experiments. first of which will be kano kreen. its on amazon now.
Please let us know how it goes, James!
Love this series!
You have great compression, and it's likely caused by the bad oil rings. They're supposed to scrape the oil back down into the crankcase. They get filled up with carbon/gunk and get seized and don't conform to the cylinder wall like they should anymore. When they don't operate like they are supposed to, they leave the oil on the walls, and it's like doing a wet compression test, which will be higher than the spec. This is why you are burning oil. Scotty Kilmer has a friend who makes a product that might really help out with this. It's kind of expensive, but if you want to try something before replacing the rings, this is worth a shot. Also, have you tried using Berryman's in the engine oil itself yet?
Scotty's Video : ua-cam.com/video/c-babZWqH34/v-deo.html
Link to product : www.atschemicals.com/505-pour-ins
Different engine, but a great explanation on Toyota Rings, and what can happen, especially with overdue oil changes.
Explanation on Toyota oil rings : ua-cam.com/video/TJhFAwFv-O0/v-deo.html
I think you’re onto something with your ideas about the compression testing.👍🏻👍🏻
This series is fantastic. Thank you for putting all this together
Thank YOU for watching!
Good compression
Dave i hope you havent finished the b12 test yet. berryman also has instructions on their website for flushing the engine oil with it. you might check it out. maybe do both a flush and piston soak
Oil control rings. Try dumping some of that chemical carburetor cleaner in plug wells and letting it soak before next oil change. Seafoam probably wasn't strong enough. By now you could have just torn the whole engine apart and replaced everything.
Evap clogged causing blow by, you should have slight vacuum in dipstick tube and oil cap, looks good considering age and mileage.
Hey I just had a random thought. I wonder if you could put some WD40 in the cyl, and then put pressure into cyl, see if you can force the cleaner into rings??
Good idea
I wouldn't use wd40, but a petroleum solvent might work
Thanks for the suggestion!
I've tired Redex before... Its gentle to the engine. But try to leave it over night, after you poured in and cranked the engine.
Another good way to clean top of the the piston is carb cleaner! Unplug the brake booster hose and slip the straw in the hose and reconnect the hose back to the brake booster. While another person hold the rpm at 2500-3000 with engine running, u just simply spray the whole can of carb cleaner until it’s empty then feel the difference it made after
learn several things. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
when doing this in your case gives a faulty test sinds the cilinder wall and piston are coated in oil. I also heard of something new and that is steam cleaning from inside the engine dont ask how but its possible.
Dave, good testing process. You touched on all the leak test points, and the carbon buildup in the combustion chamber too. Good stuff. Maybe you will be able to decarbon the engine.
Thanks again, Michael!
Interesting. Great video series
Thanks!
Does that compression gauge read correctly? Thats a diesel lol!
HI DAVE, want to do the additive you added into the old and drove 20 min. on the freeway. Please tell exactly which Berryman b12 chemtool you used. It looked like you used the fuel injector cleaner into the oil. The company they have an oil change flush #1216 that you would let car run for 20 min. This one is hard to find.
Yes, I used the fuel system cleaner.
Bad oil rings doesn't mean bad compression rings. I have rebuilt many engines burning oil with perfect compression rings over my 50 years repairing all types of engines.
Hi, Love your videos!
Got a Corolla 2001 with the same issue, oil burning!!
Time for the annual emissiontest, didn't pass as I expected the cat was clogged!!
Had a used from a Opel 2.2 laying around, much more power, better milage, No check engine and well se if anything happens with the oil burning!!!
Hope i'll pass when i revisit the testcenter, if i dont it will break my hurt to scrap it.....
Good luck!!
Claus from sweden
I wish you the best, Claus!👍🏻
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY oilburning definitely decreased, 0,5 ltr/1000 km, runs smoother!!
Revisit Wednesday morning, please wish me luck🤪🤪
@@clausjansson4856 all the best to you!
It passed the emissiontest, 0,7 ltr of oil/1200km much better!! I'm gonna try egr-cleaner trough the spark-plug holes and let it soak over the weekend!
We use it at work to clean egr-coolers on Hyundai GDI-engines, really powerful stuff, hopefully it can get a little bit better!
Regards
Claus
Way to keep the peace under damage to vehicle!
Look into Liqui Molly.
A transmission funnel works well to hear leaks.
I like that idea!
The engine is running nicely even though it is leaking oil. How is that possible? Are the plugs not being fouled?
The plugs look pretty ugly, but these cars don't seem to mind.
Check your compression gauge against your air compressor gauge.
Great idea, Christopher. I hadn’t thought of that!
Thank you sir love your car videos
Thanks for the kind comment and for watching, Joe!
My brand new car blows a bunch of air out of the oil fill, some engines just do that, especially 4 cylinders. It's just windage from the rotating assembly and piston strokes.
Nailed it!
Borescope camera!...a very useful tool for the DIY person! You can look inside your engine, look inside your bathroom and kitchen drains, look inside your walls, EVERYWHERE! Best tool we've invented since the stone axe! Thanks, Dave, for turning me on to this...they just didn't have toys like this when I was a kid!
I'm a ways behind you in the process of discovery of what's causing my particular Toyota 1ZZ-FE's oil consumption.
I was last replacing the valve seals, which WERE horribly cooked on the exhaust side...and ran into a bit of a stupidity roadblock. If you look at the short video of mine, that I'll link below, you MAY see the problem, IF you're sharp! Yeah, THAT stupidity roadblock! I'm not done scheming a way out of that little issue yet, but the video isn't so much about that as it is about the condition of the piston crown, valves, and cylinder walls...along with the really decent, for now, WiFi bore scope I got for $37 and change.
I'm gonna sit on the borescope link (for all'Y'All's protection) for a while as I finish this project...if it continues to work as well as it has initially, I will gladly share a link.
My short video...bet you can't find the latest issue! :D ua-cam.com/video/CoHTGQQOxcI/v-deo.html
He already checked with the borescope
@@dickbutt7854
Indeed he did, that's why I thanked DIY Dave at the end of the first paragraph for turning me on to borescopes. I hadn't realized that they had gotten so small that you can shove one down a 5.5mm valve guide!!
@@Bluswede Got ya
and Clearly blow by on the rings. Oil is pushed into the intake through the PCV and some oil leaks past the rings on the intake stroke. The ring cleaners that were tested did not work. Now you can test all of the other ring cleaners.
The air coming out of the valve cover is not blow by it is the pvc system
Previous video in this series:
Catalytic converter testing: ua-cam.com/video/OoxPeJ6VA9M/v-deo.html
Next video in this series:
Will Berryman's B12 Chemtool stop the oil burning?: ua-cam.com/video/EG70jHiT-S0/v-deo.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Cylinder Block 11410-29166
Comes with pistons from factory assembled
Overhaul Gasket Set 04111-0D031
Ready to go
@@hrcia6123 for 2002? 1zzfe?
In one of your other videos I saw that your short term fuel trim was high (+8 to +10% at idle) Can you post short & long term fuel trims at both idle and 2,500 rpm? The interesting thing is I also have high fuel trims & the cat code. Maybe it's time to invest in a smoke machine.
I have a strange issue with my engine
Min sped for hot compression test is 133 standard value is 188
My tests are
#1 130psi
#2 133psi
#3 140psi
#4 136psi
My leak down test is
#1 24% (rings)
#2 10% (rings)
#3 10% (rings)
#4 14% (rings)
I'm trying to figure out why my compression is kinda low on all cylinders but the leak down test is in spec
I can tell you that when I had a carboned up cylinder on my van, the compression went from 190 (normal for honda 3.5 V6) to 220. Just from carboning. I'm on the page that your high oil consumption and carbon residue is the reason for the higher readings.
I have a 2003 celica gt 1zz-fe. It only has 100,000 kms and the exact same thing is happening with mine as his. Taken it to multiple shops and nothing has come up. Money is tight rn so I’m trying to figure out what is the issue for as cheap as possible
I posted an earlier comment but after giving it some thought I believe you just caught the culprit on camera. I said believe so I could be wrong but here's another education guess.
The problem, or part of it, is likely the pistons themselves. The groove in which the piston rings sit are now tapered. Going back to what I said in my other comment about many things follow the path of least resistance. The reason why you got an improvement in your reading, on two different cylinders, is because the force of the incoming test air forced the piston (oil) rings to seat where they're supposed to seat.
The oil rings aren't stuck open, the inside of the oil rings has worn out the mating surface that it sits on in a tapered fashion.
I truly appreciate you posting these videos. It's a learning experience for me. I didn't see if you had taken notice of which spark plugs had oil on them but it would be interesting to see if the same ones that have oil on them come off of the same cylinders that have improving leak down tests.
Thank you for reading 😊
I read every word of both of your comments. Interesting theories! I think it’s cool how recording enough information about a particular subject can inadvertently provide data/evidence for multiple (and sometimes seemingly unrelated) hypotheses. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 The comment section is akin to a think tank. Thanks for posting!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for your reply. You're welcome
The only other thing that I can think of is using smoke somehow and check cylinder by cylinder
Think if chemtool doesnt do its magic redline wont help, i personally wouldnt do it just to be safe. If chemtool doesnt fix just plan engine rebuild of some sort so we see what is wrong, and as you say may not be too much
Petrol engines have vacuum in intake so opening cranckcase lets some excess air in and thats why engine sounds different. Even if there is blowby it could be sucked in by intake if not too significant.
I did the same test on my oil burning diesel which has all symptoms like yours, and since there is no intake vacum i get considerable smoke on dipstick, especially when fully warmed up engine
Dave it should be leaking air.
Not enough leakage should mean it's not getting past the rings or through the oil return holes
So those ones with low leakage should line up with the plugged rings.
That is my understanding anyway.
The air goes though the ring gaps and then leaks between the cylinder and the piston.
The oil return holes should allow much more air past than the gap between cylinder and piston
I read about another B12 recipe which is to do a soak and then a leak down test to clear the oil return holes.
Hi Dave, is there any chance you might run the bore-scope past the throttle body into the intake manifold runners to look at any oil deposits in the intake runners and valve area's.
Please. Michael H
Thanks for the suggestion, Michael.
Could it be that your cheap leakdown tester uses way to low pressure? You should have been able to reproduce the air flow out of the oil cap which you forgot to check during the leakdown test?
Why is the left meter on the leak down tester only showing 30 psi (@ 12:16) when the air compressor is feeding your tester with 100 psi? Are you not letting the full 100 psi into each cylinder to perform the test? Is 30 psi adequate pressure?
I did a little research on this, and I think it's a couple of things: (1) Pressure drop from using two 50' lengths of hose from the compressor (2) These new cheaper testers (for amateurs) cut the supply pressure by 50% because (from what I understand) pressures higher than 30-40 PSI are likely to spin the engine.
Run seafoam in oil, 1oz per quart, and do repeated 2000 mile oil changes.
Watch the oil burning reduce over the next 10k miles!
I know I’ve made a few comments before on my opinions. But as others have mentioned above, l would be interested in what a catch can would catch 🤔. Would definitely make some Amazing UA-cam videos… 😉
Haha… thanks for the suggestion … we’ll see 😏
you forgot to pull out dipstick for leakeage into crankcase which shows air getting past piston rings into sump
Oil stem valve seals
Cylinder leak down test most be performed when the engine is cold
Spark plug seals
the oil rings are clogged. for fun and good content, how about you pull the head, and pan. pull the pistons and soak them in b 12 for a day or two. see if that clears out the oil drain holes. then put them back in. other than that its back to soak the pistons with break clean or b12.
BTW, I live at Hawaii, so it doesn't get cold here. I can get away with 30-40 wt oil.
I repair a 87 corrola with 200 k.
No oil loss after using 40 wt
No leaks, no burning oil.
More power, lower emissions
when doing compression, alway open throttle fully
Don't drive around at red line for 20min. That is just asking for engine damage, it's called red line for a reason, I mean look at a stop sign.
It’s not true. Redline or rev limiter is a cut off limits set by manufacturers that protects engine over revving what is designed to. It’s a safe zone as long as u don’t rev pass the limit, or pass redline limiter then u r fine. If u think running the engine to redline is bad, then all of the people that take their cars to the track and do racing will have serious engine damage right after. In fact, those who run their cars at the track or do racing event will always have a healthier engines than most people who just drive their cars conservatively or never rev pass 5000 rpm because gasoline is a good carbon cleaner, but people just don’t realize engines needs high rpm to do it’s job or stripping off the carbon buildup within Combustion chamber, catalytic converter holes, injector holes etc. running at redline for 20 mins won’t hurt anything as long as your engine is in “working” conditions (radiator, fan, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, injection…all working). Running to the redline occasionally is a best tuneup u can do to keep your engine healthy.
@@blackysan BS
@@sidwalker6902 well let’s wait for his next Corolla video coming up and see who’s BSing. I can guarantee he will cut down his oil consumption for 3/4 after 1st treatment with B12 and redlining for 20 mins. I did exactly that to my oil burning 07 Scion tC with the known poor piston rings designs 2az-fe motor and after 2 treatments, it completely fixed it with no oil consumption between 5000 miles oil change interval
@@sidwalker6902 found the guy who hasnt heard of the italian tuneup. It works on daily drivers that very rarely see speeds over 30. The high fuel use and load of speed help dislodge carbon buildup. Its not a perfect process, but it does help
@@sidwalker6902 who’s BSing now? Did he broke his engine after 20 mins? Go watch his video and see for yourself.
So your compression rings are fine. It’s the oil rings especially #3. Whatever chemical you try. You need to let it soak PAST the compression rings to the oil rings.. this might take 24-48 hours. And motor flush b4 every oil change and thinner oil. But if you’ve ever been to a machine shop and see what carbon buildup does to rings… think “epoxy stuck”. If flushing and thinner oil doesn’t work over time…. You will have to re-ring it. Watch other utube vids on these Toyota oil rings… it’s not a mystery… it’s a known issue… and the people who get it done too down soak soak soak
Take spark plugs out, take sump off. Spray oven cleaner foam and egr valve cleaner must contain xylene. Pour into cylinder let it soak through down cylinder walls and piston rings for a two days. Crank engine repeat on the other two pistons. Once your happy all foam/egr valve cleaner is through pistons and cylinder walls and dropped into the bucket below. Refit sump oil filter and new oil. Your engine or stuck piston rings will be carbon free and operate as normal.
I thought those Toyota engines had a lot blow by.
Your engine is burning oil. When you have oil in combustion chamber the compression is increased. That is why your reading are but high. This is what I guess
You don't have enough carbon on top of the piston to increase the compression test, the lack of carbon around the edges of the piston top tells the story. It's called piston wash and it's because of the crankcase oil getting past the rings and washing the top of the piston clean.
stuffed piston ring seal. I wouldn't even bother repairing it. just run the car with high mileage engine oil/additive
Pcv valve
liquid molly
oil flush
My vote is to buy inexpensive synthetic oil in bulk from Amazon or Costco and keep adding MMO or another engjne treatment with each oil change.
Of course, I make this same comment in each one of the videos in this series 😉
After all these engine treatments do you seriously still have carbon buildup in the combustion chamber?
Close to redline will be ok. Doesn’t have to be right on redline.
Try engine restore
Great job on these videos..I really enjoy watching you go threw the experiments ..and I'm hoping something is going to actually work...but it's not... motor is toast..I left a link below on my favorite way to fix the oil burning 1zz...
The 1ZZ-FED is similar to the 1ZZ-FE but is built separately in the Shimoyama plant. Toyota's advertised power output is 140 bhp (142 PS; 104 kW) at 6,400 rpm and 127 lb⋅ft (172 N⋅m) of torque at 4,400 rpm. Additional power output over the 1ZZ-FE is accomplished by larger valves and corresponding revisions to the ports...it's a bolt in for your Corolla..you will be very happy with your MRS Corolla if you do this.. this is how I fix these little oil burners and you should too...
ua-cam.com/video/8_qz7tI6tbQ/v-deo.html
For sh!ts and giggles you could get a couple gallons of diesel fuel and do a soak and then a flush.
Drain your oil first.
Would be cheaper than the other chemicals and you would get the benefit of the lower end and oil pan sludge reduced.
I think the oil control rings are gummed up and the drain holes in the pistons are clogged up.
Good luck.
No reason to redo compression test you have done those more than once.Clearly the problem is that the oil control rings are not scraping the oil off the cylinder walls so it burns off. No you do not have enough carbon on your piston stops for carbon to be raising the compression. You can clearly see the tops of your pistons are clean. Your leakdown test was just fine.
You aren't using the gauge right. You need to connect it and raise the regulated pressure slowly to 100% after the engine is already at TDC on compression. Your first gauge is regulated pressure, your second gauge comes after a restrictor and is observed pressure. The 20% correlates to 80PSI, 40 is 60PSI, etc...
In other words if you apply 100PSI to the cylinder, and there is 10% leakage, the gauge is observing 90PSI in the cylinder. Your observation gauge should never read higher then the regulated side pressure reading.
Can you link to documentation/tutorial on that?
I agree. 100psi in, and it measures 90 psi in the cyl = 10% leakage. 80% in cyl = 20% leakage. And so on.
There is no freakin' way that engine has less than 20% leakage.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Um every manual is either going to be slightly different but all gauges work the same. Some gauges may be able to be "calibrated" as in correcting the needles if they are off. But your leak down test has to take place at TDC of the compression stroke. TDC of the intake stroke will have the intake valve open as it begins to open before TDC. There is valve overlap on every stroke except during compression. And most of the wear in the cylinder is at TDC due to combustion hence testing TDC on compression, not exhaust.
You need to hookup the gauge, and verify that you set your regulated pressure to 100, your observed pressure (gauge 2) will tell you how much of that pressure the cylinder is holding. Word of the wise is TDC of the compression stroke is gonne be hard to get. A few degrees of crankshaft movement is all it takes for the valve that is closed to start opening, and depending on the slack in the chain/belt you won't see that by just having the crank lined up at TDC. I would suggest getting it to TDC, slowly increasing the pressure, then holding the crank with a long breaker bar, moving it back and forth slightly to verify your valves are closed. Alternatively the best way to perform this test is with the valve cover off so you can feel if the rockers are loose and off the lobes.
I would link you a manual but mine is at work, its a snap-on, and snap-on doesn't list their manuals online. And I have a chrysler training book that just refers you to reading the manual itself for calibration. lol
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I would also add that engines compression is going to be 130psi and higher typically. For instance my engine is 9.5:1 it compresses air 9.5 times. So at sea level it takes 14.7psi X 9.5 = 139.65. So this engine should produce near 140 psi of compression. That is A LOT when compared to everything else (coolant being no higher then 22psi typically) so you won't find a leak using 20psi.... that gasket needs to hold much more during combustion!
Okay, did a little research:
I found there are two types of dual gauge testers. The older, traditional style, which, as you said, shows regulated pressure on the first gauge, and observed pressure on the second ...
and then there's the tester for dummies, like I used. The first gauge reads cylinder pressure, and the second gauge is purely percentage loss. You can used anywhere from 45 to 100 psi with this gauge, which is why it must be zeroed to the incoming pressure. If you noticed, when the kit was hooked up to my compressor, the first gauge read 30 psi, since 30psi was the pressure it was "ready" to send to the cylinder, and then as soon as I hooked it up to the cylinder, it dropped to roughly 27psi, as (due to some leakage) the cylinder couldn't hold the full 30 psi the kit was trying to send it. The second gauge was therefore reading the correct percentage drop of 10ish percent (as 27psi is 90 percent of 30psi).
Here's a link on how to use the style of gauge I used:
ua-cam.com/video/WHli-wLy9_o/v-deo.html
Here's a link to a video on how to use the other type of dual gauge tester.
ua-cam.com/video/J9aKM4znvWU/v-deo.html
Thoughts?
You are doing the compression test incorrectly. You do 5 rotations on the compression stroke, not just let it crank and crank. When you do the test properly you will see much lower compression.
Excuse me sir, you could most prob have oil leak, not oil burn.
No visible leaks outside the engine, no oil in the coolant, only other possibility is it's burning. Technically leaking by something, but internal to the engine
@@dickbutt7854 well that's too tricky
If you watch the series he says it’s not leaking.
@@aidanclegg9470 there were alot of oil leakage around the timing chain tensioner and valve cover area
@@1ZZFE there’s still no leaks.
This carbon cleaning solution (I use for rebuilds) video might inspire you. See the results he got overnight ua-cam.com/video/SS8vFbBLIG0/v-deo.html
I'm not a fan of that cheesy leakdown tester. Stop listening to the armchair mechanics , just hone it , and re-ring it... End of oil burning guaranteed
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That's not the correct way to do a leak down test. You don't pre-pressurize the leak down regulator. You back the leak down tool regulator all the way down to zero psi FIRST. Then hook up the leak down tester tool to the cylinder under test. Then slowly adjust the leak down tester regulator until it shows 100 psi on the left gauge, the right gauge tells you the results.... You need to redo the test
Drop a Short Block in and you will not only stop your oil consumption but not have to make any more videos for money.
put a 2zz in it
Just buy new used car already
your car runs to wellll to be head gasket,most times head gaskets either jump between cylinders or water jacket ports in head and block , and pressure will will make hoses get hard from blowby pressure .,i would say oil control rings are at fault , allso no overheat problems from head gat sket leaks,,it would not be oil filling cylinders