KLR Fan Test (Simple, quick test for function.) KLR650 Kawasaki
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- A simple quick test to see if the fan motor on a KLR 650 is working. Can be performed in seconds with the bike fully assembled and the ignition off. This is a great test to perform when you are looking at a used bike to just verify the integrity of the fan motor, fan relay, and wiring involved in the fan system.
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I picked one up on the 8th and was wondering how to test my fan and this is a perfect example for what I need thanks
Just picked an '01 up and wanted to give it a good twice-over. Thanks for the quick tip!
Thank you! Saved the day!
thanks for the video very helpful!
thank you good man
Hey brother. 2001 KLR650. I touched the thermo switch wire to the engine and the fan did not turn on, but it did spark where it was touching, and it did blow the 10a fuse by the relay that I just replaced.
Removed the fan from the bike and connected current via leads from the battery directly into the plug- it spins. Would it still spin if it was shorting in the fan?
Performed a continuity test on the relay with a multimeter and the relay seems to be operational, I hear it click when connected to current and the resistance drops when activated- though previous owner replaced relay with an aftermarket version with a higher amperage rating.
I’m guessing I have a short- everything seems to be operational just the fuse blows and the fan won’t turn when it is supposed to. Any ideas?
Can I do.this in my drz 400 sm 2017?
The blades should turn to the left or right?
Nice
What direction do the fans go, does it pull it back towards the motor or push forward
Pulls air from the front of the bike through the radiator.
I did this and my fan came on. But it won’t turn on when driving then the temp light comes on? Does that mean it’s the thermo coupler?
Could be the thermo-switch in the bottom of the radiator, could also be that the thermostat is stuck and not letting coolant circulate. If that was the case, the coolant in the radiator would stay cool and not turn the fan on while the engine kept getting warmer and warmer. On my bike (2006) The temperature switch that the temperature gauge on the dash is based on is in the head of the engine and the thermo-switch for fan in the bottom of the radiator. They are two different systems. A worse scenario would be the impeller for the coolant system has an issue and is not circulating coolant. I would start with the easy stuff first and check the thermo-switch, then check the thermostat, and then if those are good, you'll have to pull the right side case apart and look at the coolant impeller...
Didn't even know it had a fan mine never gets over a 25% on the temp
I'm having the opposite problem, my fan won't turn off. The fan usually shuts off a few seconds after killing the engine but this time it kept going for about 10 minutes until I finally unplugged the wire at the bottom. The next day the fan still kicks on when I connect the wire. Could this be a bad switch that is stock in the "hot" position?
Sounds like the sensor in the bottom of the radiator needs to be replaced. The way that thing works is when the coolant gets to a certain temperature that sensor activates and completes the path to ground for the circuit which turns the fan on. If the fan continues to run (but stops when you unplug the wire) either the coolant is really really hot in that radiator or that sensor has failed and is continuously allowing path to ground for the circuit. Since it turned on the next day when you plugged the wire in I'm almost 100% certain that sensor isn't functioning properly anymore and needs to be replaced.
I have a 1998 klr 650 and the fan stays on even when I unplug the sensor, do you think it would be a fuse problem of a temp sensor problem?
If it's running without the wire being plugged in the circuit has an alternate path to ground besides the sensor. Start tracing wires back on that circuit looking for issues. Another possibility is a prior owner installed some wiring or an on/off switch thus bypassing the sensor and maybe a piece of that wiring is grounding. I don't have my wiring diagram handy to check, but there might be a relay in the system that has failed in a position that keeps the fan running.
Looks like the simple way to ck.the fan switch
Hey buddy, I'm assuming this method works with any motorcycle? I'm trying to figure out if my older Honda motorcycle needs either a fan replacement or a thermostat switch replacement. You see, my motorcycle runs hot while I'm sitting stationary at a stop light...... but once I get moving again, the temperature will decrease back to normal. If you had to take a guess, what would you say is the cause of this? And thanks for the vid, much appreciated.
Once the bike is moving the airflow across the radiator is usually enough to cool the bike. My fan on my KLR only really comes on during the summer in stop and go traffic. The test should work for any simple two wire fan motor. You're just completing the 12v circuit. All this is doing is testing the fan to see if it will function. If your fan isn't coming on at all, then the thermostat switch is probably bad. If you get a manual for your bike it should have a testing procedure for that thermo-switch (off the bike). Usually involves heating up some water and testing the resistance of the switch as the water heats up. With the cold water the switch should have infinite resistance (open circuit, no path to ground), but as soon as a certain temp is reached the themo switch activates and the resistance in the switch should drop dramatically completing the circuit and allowing the angry pixies (electrons) to flow and turn the fan motor. Alternately, if the fan works, but you don't want to replace the thermo switch, you can hard wire a toggle so you can physically turn the fan on when you want. Almost forgot...if the test doesn't turn the fan on, it could be a bad fan motor, or the relay for the fan might also be bad. If the fan does turn on your relay and fan motor are both fine and it's probably that thermo switch if the fan doesn't come on when the bike is running hot.
@@WheeliePete The fan is kicking on when it runs hot, I just checked. With that said...... why is it still running hot while the bike is at a standstill but cools down once the bike is in motion and moving? Any ideas what the culprit might be?
@Tony Kart Racer sorry I didn't see this message earlier. I hope you were able to sort out the issues, but if you haven't, sitting at a standstill there's no airflow over the radiator and if just the fan kicks on it does a little bit, but usually not enough to cool the coolant all the way to normal. If you're sitting still and the fan is on, and if the temp gauge is approaching the danger line, then there's some other problem. Could be as simple as the coolant mix is wrong (too much water to coolant, or vise versa), or coolant levels too low, or possibly a water pump going bad (not likely), or maybe a faulty thermostat. I install the thermo-bob thermostat bypass in all my bikes. I'm not sponsored to say that or anything, I've just had a lot of experience with the product and my own side-by-side testing has shown (to me) that it works. You can read up on it and buy them here: shop.watt-man.com/Thermo-Bob-2-for-KLR650-ALL-MODEL-YEARS-TB2.htm
Is the fan run on 12 volts DC? I'm re wiring an old bike
Yes. 12V DC
Yes
Do you know where those fuses are located?
On the 1990-2007 Model KLR's the fan fuse is located behind the right side cowling behind the radiator overflow bottle in a white plastic clamshell housing that is usually zip tied vertically to the radiator overflow support frame. It should have white wires going to and from it. I'm not sure where it is located on the 2nd generation bikes (2008-2018). If you don't have a Clymer manual for your year of KLR I would suggest you pick one up as it has a color wiring diagram that is very helpful in chasing electrical problems. Make sure you test the fuse with an ohm-meter for continuity. I recently had my fan quit working and at first inspection the fuse looked good, but after testing it was found to be bad. Popped a new 10A fuse in there and we're good to go. Some people will actually re-wire the fuses to eliminate the glass tube style fuses and change them to the bladed micro-fuses that are used in vehicles today. Not a bad idea really. If the fuse isn't the problem, then I would look at the fan relay. There's only 4 parts to this sytem (Fan thermo switch in the radiator, Fan motor, Fan relay, 10A fuse). The temperature sending unit in the top of the head next to the spark plug is connected to the dash temp gauge, it doesn't control the fan at all. On the 1987-2007 KLR's the only other fuses are the 10A headlight fuse (which likes to blow when teh high/low beam switch sticks between settings), and the 20A main fuse. The fan circuit does receive it's power from the same line that the 20A main fuse is on, but if the 20A fuse is blown, the engine won't run. The 10A headlight and 20A main fuse are located under the seat on top of the battery in a fuse holder.
I felt some voltage going through me is that normal or is something not grounded right
I wonder if you were just grounding through yourself? I've never felt current while testing this way though. It might be worth checking your wiring for grounding issues. You blowing a fuse regularly? That's usually a sign there's a wire housing that's gotten rubbed to the point the inner wires are shorting out onto the frame.
Hello I have a problem my fan turns on but then turns of after 2 -5 seconds is that normal or plz help
It's only a problem if the engine is getting too hot when it turns off. When I ride through stop and go traffic and then park sometimes my fan turns on for a few seconds and then turns off, like the coolant was just at the cusp of needing the fan and then the fan being on for a few seconds put it back down under the temp limit. If it's turning on but then turning off right away when it shouldn't, I would probably take a look at the sensor in the bottom of the radiator. There's a procedure in the Clymer manual and the Factory service manuals for testing the function of the switch by putting it in hot water and measuring when the switch's resistance changes.
Hey man, I’m assuming that this is kind of like a generic test for all types of bikes, so I’m wondering when I perform this test the fan does spin but when the bike is on the fan never turns on and it overheats after about 5 to 10 minutes. All my fuses are good and none are blown and the fan spins when I perform this test, so does that mean that relay inside the radiator is bad
That would be my guess is that the thermo-switch is bad based on what you described. Repair manuals usually show a test for the thermal switch where you get a pot of water heated up and then hang the switch in the water and measure resistance as the water heats up. It could also be a bad water pump not pushing coolant through the system. If the water pump isn't moving water, then the coolant stuck in the head would get hotter and hotter. On the KLR the temperature gauge is in the head and the thermo-switch is in the bottom of the radiator. If you pull the thermo-switch out of the bottom of the radiator it will drain the coolant of the radiator so have a catch bucket handy.
@@WheeliePete I ended up finding a leak today and when I drained what was in my bike it actually was only like a 1 cup total of coolant from the water pump and radiator. I’m assuming that’s super low due to the leak I found. And my guess is the overheating is due to not enough coolant being in the system to rotate around. And I’m guessing the levels were so low that there was basically not enough coolant to touch the thermal switch in order to show it’s hot and kick the fans on. But at that same time my temp gauge was showing correct
Sounds like you figured it out!
@@WheeliePete does that sound about right in regards to the liquid being too low for the thermos switch to engage
It sounds plausible. Coolant comes in from the top of the radiator and flows to the bottom, there probably just wasn't really any coolant circulating. The airflow across the radiator from just riding along is going to keep whatever little bit is in there pretty cool.
When I perform this test, my fan DOES spin. But when riding it never turns on and the bike begins to overheat. I'm guessing my relay and fuse and obviously fan motor is good so all that's left is the fan switch?
What year KLR are you working on?
@@WheeliePete thx for reply. 2007, last year of 1st gen.
There's a change in the wiring for 2008+, so yes, I think you get to pull the fan switch out of the radiator and test it. Probably worth checking the 10A fuse for the fan system also. It should be good if you can get the fan to turn on, but I've seen stranger things happen with old KLR wiring when people have stabbed in leads here and there. The 10A fuse should be under the right side of the tank in a plastic fuse holder near the fan relay.
Wers the relay if its not working?
On my 2006 KLR, it's under the gas tank, right side, up by the part of the frame the gas tank mounts to, behind the radiator support bracket. It's round. Get the tank off and then trace the wires from the fan up to the relay.
The place you are driving is like on the movie "wrong turn"
Hola ,
Encontré la solución para el calentamiento del motor de las KLR 650 segunda generación es decir del 2008 en delante ,
1.- checa el funcionamiento correcto de bomba de agua.
1a.-checa el funcionamiento correcto bulbo que viene en el radiador el cual funciona de la siguiente manera :cuando persibe la temperatura del líquido refrigerante mayor a lo permisible activa el flujo de energía a través de él para accionar en ventilador y cuando disminuye impide el flujo de energía al ventilador y así se mantiene el motor dentro de una temperatura para que el motor trabajé de manera óptima, ya que la temperatura del refrigerante para que el motor trabajé de manera óptima ronda aproximadamente los 85 a 90 grados centígrados
2.- retira el termostato (ya que eso solo sirve en zonas de hielo ) en muchas ocasiones el termostato se oxida y se pega (impidiendo el flujo del refrigerante dentro del motor, ocasionando un calentamiento) y está pieza es inútil ya que solo es necesaria en zonas donde se corre el riesgo de congelación del refrigerante
3.- instala un ventilador de mayor tamaño y con más RPM (vueltas o revoluciones por minuto ) yo en particular le instale un ventilador de Suzuki Vstrom el cual gira al doble de velocidad del ventilador de KLR .
Y problema resuelto la moto siempre se mantiene en el rango medio de temperatura
Nota extra:
Por último si el problema de calentamiento persiste
A) es necesario checar la cabeza del motor su buen funcionamiento ya que si sufrió daños por calentamiento (fisuras o deformaciones) es necesario llevar la cabeza del motor con un especialista
B) el termostato original de KLR 650 ronda los 175 dls y en su caso podrías comprar uno de vehículo Nissan Tsuru primera generación (tiene el mismo funcionamiento por sus rangos de acción de temperatura) el cual cualquier tornero te lo puede adaptar puesto que es ligeramente más pequeño y tiene una rosca diferente.
Puse estos en todas mis motocicletas KLR650. Se soluciona los problemas de ciclo de calor. shop.watt-man.com/Thermo-Bob-2-for-KLR650-ALL-MODEL-YEARS-TB2.htm
how realistic option is that fan itself doesnt work?, cause when i connect ground like shown in video, i hear some contact clicking, but fan isnt showing anny sighns, also fan doesnt turn smooth with finger
Sounds like the fan motor is done. If it was me, I would pull the fan off the radiator, take it to the work bench and apply 12v DC to it and if it still doesn't work, get a new one.
@@WheeliePete tnx for answer. yeah, i was thinking the same. havent done it yet, can i remove fan wetouth removeing entire radiator? i dont wana do all the fluids as well right now. also anny idea aproximately how much new fan costs? i know cost is diferent from place to place, but just to get general idea.
@@nseriousget8165 I've been told that the kawasaki ninja has the same motor but are cheaper. I'm going to take off my fan tomorrow and if it doesn't work then I'm ordering one off of fleabay. The klr fans 4 times as expensive...
@@ricoreillo1922 just after i bought klr, i have had dissasembled my entire cooler fan and ewerything (out of curiosity, and to clean it), i noticed that fan doesnt turn on when bike heats up (bike wasnt owerheating, but still), i tried method shown in video and it still didnt work, but after dissasembleing it all i connected fan directly to baterry and it did runn (supriseingly powerfull), so i supose power supply cable is broken somewhere. i have yet to find where, and i didnt yet cause i only work on it in my limited spare time.
i also cleaned cooler, and tested temperature switch by putting in hot water,
thankfully ewerything works properly, and yes i checked price of those parts, its expencive af.
@@nseriousget8165 thats good that your fan motor is working. Sucks that you haven't been able to figure it all out. Check the relays, the fuses, and the ground. I went ahead and ordered a fan from a ninja for 30 bucks. Hopefully I can just plug it in and get back on the road. Good luck to you!
If the fan motor will not turn when performing the test, I've replaced the relay and replaced the temperature switch and I left to assume the fan motor itself is.not functioning? No fuses are blown.
Make double sure the fuses are good. The old glass tube ones can look good, but not be making the connection sometimes. I'd test the fuses with an ohm meter for continuity before moving on to replacing the fan motor. A lot of people switch out the old glass tube style fuses for a new fuse box with the modern blade style fuses because of issues with the old glass ones probably caused by bike vibration more than anything.
@@WheeliePete dude you are the man. I found that applying 12v dc to the fan kicks it on. Realized after reading this whole comment section more. I manually wired a fan override switch with a 15amo blade fuse. I am concerned that the battery will be drained because the override switch can turn on the fan when the key isn't in. I have it wired to the battery terminals and believe it is properly grounded and connected to hot but am unfamiliar with current. Will this set up drain my battery overtime? I was under the impression the key needed to be turned on for this to work as I am plugging directly into the fan motor plug. Thanks again for your response yesterday. Really helpful 👍
In the factory configuration, the fan electrical actually bypasses switched ignition also. It's supposed to be able to kick on regardless of whether the key is in the ignition or not. For example, my bike if I've been riding it in town, stop-n-go traffic in the summer, and then park and remove the key, the fan will stay on for a bit after I remove the key. Sometimes the fan on my bike will kick on after I turn the bike off as the temp in the radiator rises a bit from the coolant flow ceasing when the engine is shut off and no air-flow. It only stays on for a bit though because the fan brings down the temp of non-moving coolant quickly. The factory wiring for the fan is 100% controlled by the temp switch, bypassing the switched ignition. If you have full manual control of the fan (bpassing the switch) you'll need to remember to turn it off when you turn the bike off or the running fan will obviously drain the battery. If you're worried about parasitic drain (battery discharging when the key is off), here's a handy way to check for that: www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain#:~:text=After%20you%20pull%20a%20fuse,that's%20creating%20the%20parasitic%20draw! That's a good trick for any vehicle to help identify which circuit has the drain. While I was poking around looking at wiring diagrams for the KLR I also found this thread that was discussing the wiring mods needed for LED lights on the bike, but I also noticed this guy had a manual override switch wired into his fan system. The way he's got it in the (excellent) diagram here also retains the factory control mechanism for the fan. It also shows where he added the blade fuses and a really slick diode block system to deal with adding LED's: www.klrforum.com/threads/trail-tech-and-led-indicators.72399/
@@WheeliePete wow thanks again for all the support. I will certainly review and make gains soon with this knowledge. Much appreciated!
Hi! Does this work for gen2 (2011 klr)
I haven't actually done it on a gen2, but the same principle should apply (with a slight twist). I think the gen2's fan switch is still located in the bottom of the radiator, but it has 2 wires going to it instead of one, correct? In that case, just pull the plug off the switch and jumper the two wires together on the plug you just pulled off should turn the fan on. (Two wires to the switch would indicate that the switch is open when coolant is cold and then closes (allowing electricity to pass across the switch) when the coolant hits a certain temp.) Jumpering the contacts in the wiring plug fools the system into thinking the coolant switch has closed from hot coolant and should kick the fan on.
@@WheeliePete wauw Quick aswer. Thank you. Im really new to this and saw my temp is going high but didn't noticed the fan kicking on😕
If the temp is getting high and the fan isn't kicking on and jumpering the switch isn't working, the next thing to look at is the 15a (on gen2) fuse for the fan. I believe on the gen2 bikes it is located under the seat. See this thread: www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=104085 (The gen1 bikes use a 10a fuse for the fan up behind the right side radiator bottle cowling). If the 15a fuse is good (and check it with a ohm meter because they can visually look good but still be blown), then the relay is the next culprit. It could also be the fan motor itself but to test that you need a 12v battery and some jumpers and probably remove the fan from the radiator and put it on the work bench. Chances are though, it's either the fan switch in the bottom of the radiator or the 15a fuse. If you use the spare fuse in the holder, make sure you get another one to replace it. Make sure the fan actually spins freely. I ran into a bike once that had been in an accident and the radiator was jammed in it's housing and couldn't spin. They'd replaced the plastics, but the radiator fan was stuck in it's housing and couldn't spin. Bent the housing back to shape and it started working again.
@@WheeliePete you re more then helpful! I will check it in two days and let you know what worked:)👍🙏
barttez I have same problem
😂