Nicely done, I like your ideas on skidding logs as well as not having the weight in your tires, plus your terrain is not at all flat around you very awesome property, wish I was closer would totally love to visit! Keep up the great work!🌲💪👷♂️👍👍
Very rarely do I ever post comments on UA-cam. However this video is worthy of a positive comment as you have a great idea. I like that the ballast is the full width of the tractor and how low to the ground it is. I also envision welding a C-Channel steel underneath your ballast for driveway leveling and the possibility of using the same system as a substitute blade for pushing snow with the right modification. You could make a basket on top to carry chainsaws, logging chains, etc. Very practical with unlimited possibilities. Nice job.
Thank you, James! The basket you mentioned is definitely on my list. I also want to weld a 2” receiver for a tow hitch and a mount so I can install it on top of my box blade to work as downforce. Great comment, Sir!
Very nice. I like your design much better than the ballast boxes I have seen for sale. I just traded one of my antique Minneapolis Moline tractors for a Wallenstein 3 point winch skidder. Have not used it yet, but will post a video when I do. The hydraulic switches on the fenders of your tractor is a great option, saves a lot of time and busted knuckles. Have a good holiday.
Nice design on the ballast bar. I have a 2000 John Deere 4700 tractor very simular to yours. On my ballast box I added two scabbards (lined with wood) to hold chainsaws, a box on top to hold gas and bar oil containers and tools and some hooks for cables, cant hook etc. I have been using the tractor since new for logging around the farm for fire wood and saw logs for my Woodmizer LT40. Works great. Keep an eye on the front axle seals and grease, grease, grease. Work safe and enjoy. Thanks.
I was thinking about a tool box for mine as well, Mark. Every thing on the front end of this tractor has sealed bearings. The only grease point is in the side to side pivot on the front axle. And of course all the loader pivot points.
Weld some 3/8 grab hooks to the back of that bar and you can skid multiple trees at the same time. I welded some hooks to the back of my box blade and also to the top of my bucket, it just gives you more options on pulling out logs or hung up trees, throw a chain around something heavy and use the bucket to load it onto the back of your truck etc.
Way to go as your foot print weight when needed is there, but as you say when mowing or other light duty is needed you just take it off leaving less of a foot print, plus your cantilever advantage is great.
I'll certainly agree that Miller makes some nice machines, especially with the digital readout. But you sir, know how to set the heat and keep the proper rate of travel for what looks to be a 7018 type of rod.
I've done the same thing on our smaller tractors. We just take a 55 gallon drum, insert a heavy wall pipe through it, weld pins and a top hitch bracket and fill with cement.
Very nice fab work on the Ballast, hitch, and boom set up. Im thinking you should do a video on making the ballast, hitch and boom cause I really think you did a great fabrication job on them. We can build them but with a video it saves a lot of work , better you figure it out than us, ggg. Happy new year !
I have same size tractor and I found that it needed wheel weights, and fill the back tires. It's all about 1100 lbs. I dont want to have something on back if it's a tight job, or I like a finish rake but they are light. Sweet ballast you made. Great work
The rear ballast bars sure make your John Deere more balanced when using your forks to pick up big loads. Using the 3-point hitch sure makes your ballast bar a more flexible system.
You could move it to where it is a few more inches back and it will provide even more ballast. But be cautious as lots of weight on 3 ph lower arms can exceed the tractors lift ability and cause damage. A quick hitch should be just about right increase in distance, but your top link connection will need to be modified to work with a quick hitch I believe. Nice ballast build for low $$ investment!
For lifting very heavy stuff I use heavy duty forks that attach to the back 3 point linkage. You risk busting your front end loader if you overload it which would be a real pain. Your ballast bar is an awesome attachment as it allows you to move around tight areas without a massive brush hog hanging off the back. I came to look at it as it looks like it could be made into a great grader too. And your welds are so nice, mine look like old chewing gum 😀 great work.
Thanks, Tim. I’ve thought about rear forks too but the three point is only rated at 2,500 lbs while the forks are almost 4,000 if I remember correctly.
@@NorthwestSawyer Really! Far out. I stand corrected. I have a 4049m with 4in1 front loader and my loader feels flimsy as hell compared to the 3 point linkage. I saw your mill, so cool. Im fabricating one but its taking months, wish id just bought one. I have a cattle farm in Australia in mountain country (lots of lumber). Looks like we would have a lot to talk about if we met. Best of luck with it all.👍
Add the water to you tires. Won't hurt a thing, just make sure you put antifreeze in to keep it from turning to ice and cutting your tires up. I wouldn't dream of having a tractor without water. It aids flotation, traction, and ballast. Been doing it over 40 years!
I just seen your video I like your color balance You could be used for other stuff to beans it's on the three-point and you are right center-of-gravity does make a difference when you're lifting something heavy
Counterweight on the 3-point is the way to go. It actually lightens up your front axle because the rear axles become the fulcrum point. The owners manual for my tractor actually talks about counterweight on the 3-point and goodworkstractor has an excellent video on the topic. He placed a tractor with its front axles on a set of scales and its rear axle on a separate set of scales to show the difference with and without counterweight. My manual states that in order to safely use the loader's full capacity you will need counterweight.
Be mindful that you are now equaling the weight to keep from tilting but the stress you put on the front 4wd knuckles is tremendous. Watch for stress wear on the front to prevent a failure. I worked in the AG salvage in the past and have seen multiple broken knuckles. Love the informational videos.
Thank I jut got a 1964 John Deere 2010 industrial tractor with the front bucket I will probably need to do the same . I like looks of the new tractor over the old one you had
Certainly much safer than what you were doing, just make sure you put it on when needed. Personally I prefer tire ballast and a box blade or bushhog for counterweight when doing loader work, but tire ballast alone works fine if necessary. You should weld on some chain hooks for choker chains.
Great fabrication on the ballast bar. The one concern I have is that when taking it on/off it looks top-heavy and ready to flip over. Be careful. Maybe mounting it flat would have been safer. I love the back up buttons on the JD.
I leave the brush cutter on and get a decent ballast. However, what you have there lends to more agility. The length of the brush cutter helps balance but I surely can't get wherever I want. Nice build.
My three point has a 2,500lb lifting capacity. If my math is correct, my ballast bar should be just under 1,000lbs. I like how close it is to the back of my tractor. Helps for those hard-to-reach places😬
If you use rim guard, made of beet juice, in the tires, it is non-corrosive and takes the weight off the back axle. It is fairly cheap if you a local supplier. The only problem I see with your ballast bar is the width - you may end up hitting a lot of stuff on the sides. A 30 gallon drum with concrete is about 700 lbs. Your tractor could handle a 50 gallon drum with concrete - about 1,000 lbs. Cheap drums don't cost much either. But your bar is ok too.
good job, I just use my box blade as a ballast and if I need more I put the Brush-hog on. Do your self a favor an get a JD "I-Match" best thing I ever bought for my tractor, you don't even have to get off the tractor to change implements. You could build one yourself, I have seen home made ones but I only have a small welder and not much time so I just bought it.
Hello Sir, your video was EXACTLY what I was hoping to find during my search for the "perfect" ballast setup for my Branson 3520H with 2,100 lbs lifting capacity! I didn't realize that I could use these 8" square tubes WHICH I ALREADY HAVE and I'm definitely going to build one! I'm already envisioning chain hooks simply because I have extra laying around and I believe I will add 3 pass through receiver tubes to accommodate removable "forks" for two reasons, one I could use it as makeshift forks to add a compact metal or wood platform loaded with equipment & tools which I can carry to the area, drop it, then go to work and two, when the "forks" are centered, it serves as an anti-tip. The center tube could be used to put a hitch to pull my 6k wagon logging trailer. My question to you, since you last made it 3 years ago, has there been any "Shoulda done that, added this" for your ballast? Any last minute suggestions/recommendations? Should I add a short third row on top of the two for extra weight?
The only thing wrong with the one I made is it needs some legs to keep it upright when it’s not on the machine. It’s easy to tip over. I also want to add a 2” receiver hitch to it. I found the weight to be plenty and it’s small size still allows me to get into tight spots. I bought a box blade a couple years ago and haven’t really used my ballast bar much since. Every once in a while it comes in handy.
Tire ballast is good and bad. Even with water and windshield fluid tire tubes break down and you end up with a rusted out rim. Calcium sure speeds that process up! Rear ballast and some wheel weights is the way to go.
Good job on the ballast … one question though , I have seen a few of these channels moving stuff with the forks … with the ballast will there be more of a chance of overloading the forks and causing front spindle damage , or cracking .. I have seen to different tractors break a right front spindle , just curious
That’s a possibility with an older machine but the newer ones are hydraulically limited to a certain weight. They wouldn’t be able to warranty them if they could tear themselves apart.
$45? You must have gotten the tubing for free?.BTW Nice design. Perhaps consider adding an additional clevis in the center of your weight for pulling, maybe even a trailer hitch. I think welding on a hitch receiver would be a decent addition.
I should’ve mentioned that the steel was all leftover or salvaged. I made a receiver for the three point already but could add one to this for next to nothing.
Get you a small bungee cord for putting on 3pt lowers. Place on the arm you're wanting to put on pulling towards the middle of the machine and a quick forward movement will put it right on. Don't stain your legs and feet kicking it. They move in an arc naturally wanting to pull "in" while moving forward keeping themselves on. Don't hook the arms together until 1 is on. The first one (once the arm is ready to go on the pin) you can hold the bungee (start with the arm opposite your controls). Basically, backup w/ 3pt in proper height and arms swung out. Pull the far arm towards you, adjust height and F/B as needed, then attach the bungee to the arm next to you and repeat. Give it a try and I bet in future videos we'll see a bungee on the back of your machine ;). Arms must be outside of the pins before being pulled in so you can't just connect them together. My bungee hangs out between the fender and the ROPS.
It actually came with a bungee between the draft bars. My old tractor had telescopic draft bars which were much easier to use. I need to get the hang rod these new ones. Thanks for the info. I’ll give it a try!
Yeah, they usually use one to keep them from flopping about w/ out an implement or something on them, but w/ the FEL on the machine always keep something of weight back there. FEL's on utility tractors are more of a convenience item and far more engineering is put into the machine as 3pt working piece of equipment, than a loader. If you've got a project of that requires a lot of heavy FEL work, you honestly might consider renting a skid steer unit to beat on. While a utility tractor looks like a dedicated TLB machine, there's considerable differences between our utility tractors and machines built for regular loader use. They're worlds apart.
Great video. I love your fabricated boom pole. I'll be purchasing a used John Deere 5100 shortly and could use a setup like you have. Would it be possible to get the dimensions, specs, and measurements of the steel used in your build?
To be honest, I just whipped this together out of scrap pieces I had laying around. I will say that the lower horizontal bar is 24” across and the upright is 36” tall. There’s no science at all to it. I would use steel that you feel will do the job you’re needing.
Never use chloride in the tires. It corrodes the rims. It's what they did back in the day. Now beet juice is available. Its just as heavy, doesn't freeze, and doesn't corrode the rims. Washer fluid also doesn't freeze or corrode but isn't as heavy.
I find it interesting that JD doesn’t want you to put ballast in the tires. Is it possible your tractor has an aluminum transaxle? A tractor with FEL without ballast is nearly useless. Beat juice is fantastic. Your ballast is too wide and will get in the way.
I like the idea of removable ballast. I’ve had no issues with the bar’s size so far. I looked into beet juice and it’d be cheaper to fill my tires with diesel.
Your front axle and its gears will live MUCH longer if you DOUBLE the weight of your ballast by using your 2 mount points to place the additional weight further away from the rear. Think of your tractor as a 'seesaw' and instead of it having a single point of balance, it has 2 (the front and rear axles) except when you pick a rear tire off the ground, at which point your front axle has not only the entire weight of the machine on it, it also has the load you're picking up which is bad bad bad. The rear of the machine is substantially stronger than the front, so put as much weight as feasible on the rear when doing loader work. You cannot put too much weight at the back of a utility tractor when using the FEL. It takes several pounds of rear ballast to offset a single pound of FEL load. You don't want the rear to "just remain touching", you want lots of weight on the rear even when the FEL is loaded. Rear ballast saves your front axle. Don't confuse filled tires and wheel weights for ballast. Neither of the two take weight off the front axle.
I don't know how to prove it but by having the weight behind the center line of rear tires 3 or 4 feet there should be more then the 900 Lbs. on the back tires of the tractor? Dose anybody know?
Thanks for the reply. I don't understand how an airplane wing can support 2 or 3 one ton jet engines or a plane can be loaded with 2 Army Tanks and take off but they do. Go figure
To calculate the moment the weight induces about the rear axle, find the approximate center of mass of the counterweight, and measure the distance between the center if gravity and the rear axle. Multiply the weight times the distance. 1000 lbs 1 ft from the axle us 1000 ft-lbs moment or torque. 1000 lbs 10 ft from the axle us 10,000 ft-lbs.
Nice multi-purpose engineering job. I love how you think! High quality videography also with no obnoxious head banging death metal overtaking the content too.
NW Sawyer, how can I get ahold of you? I don't see a private messaging option on your channel like I've found on a few others. I have a few cedar questions that you'll have better insight into as a NW Sawyer (I'm a few hours north in the Puget Sound Seattle area).
Its still HARD on the front axles to work that tractor that hard. A used, ugly, rubber-tired loader can be had for $4-5,000. You really should consider that as your next long-term investment.
Well, I have a really hard time believing that John Deere would put a loader on a machine from the factory that could destroy it and still put a ten year warranty on it. The owner’s manual says you must use some type of ballast when using a loader and recommends against liquid in the tires. I don’t intend to max out the capacity every time I use it. I was just demonstrating the difference between ballast and not.
Oh nope. I looked it up. Learn something new every day. I don’t want anything in my tires. For what I do , I’d just as soon stay on top of the ground. Maybe if you were pulling a three bottom plow on solid ground
awesome idea. nice design little different than most people
Thank you!
Nicely done, I like your ideas on skidding logs as well as not having the weight in your tires, plus your terrain is not at all flat around you very awesome property, wish I was closer would totally love to visit! Keep up the great work!🌲💪👷♂️👍👍
Very rarely do I ever post comments on UA-cam. However this video is worthy of a positive comment as you have a great idea. I like that the ballast is the full width of the tractor and how low to the ground it is. I also envision welding a C-Channel steel underneath your ballast for driveway leveling and the possibility of using the same system as a substitute blade for pushing snow with the right modification. You could make a basket on top to carry chainsaws, logging chains, etc. Very practical with unlimited possibilities. Nice job.
Thank you, James! The basket you mentioned is definitely on my list. I also want to weld a 2” receiver for a tow hitch and a mount so I can install it on top of my box blade to work as downforce. Great comment, Sir!
Nice work on the ballast bar!!!
Very nice. I like your design much better than the ballast boxes I have seen for sale. I just traded one of my antique Minneapolis Moline tractors for a Wallenstein 3 point winch skidder. Have not used it yet, but will post a video when I do. The hydraulic switches on the fenders of your tractor is a great option, saves a lot of time and busted knuckles. Have a good holiday.
Probably one of the best designed counter weight I think I've seen. There only change I would do is make it quick hitch compatible. Great job!!!!
Thank you! I’d like to add a receiver hitch to it.
Good job. I would do the same for the same reasons. The money saved is icing on the cake.
Nicely done. 👍🏽🙂
Nice design on the ballast bar. I have a 2000 John Deere 4700 tractor very simular to yours. On my ballast box I added two scabbards (lined with wood) to hold chainsaws, a box on top to hold gas and bar oil containers and tools and some hooks for cables, cant hook etc. I have been using the tractor since new for logging around the farm for fire wood and saw logs for my Woodmizer LT40. Works great. Keep an eye on the front axle seals and grease, grease, grease. Work safe and enjoy. Thanks.
I was thinking about a tool box for mine as well, Mark. Every thing on the front end of this tractor has sealed bearings. The only grease point is in the side to side pivot on the front axle. And of course all the loader pivot points.
Ya I think you did the right thing in what u made for ballast......good job.
Thank you, Don!
Smart solution, good job
Thanks, Darwin!
Nice welds, super low center, expensive steel(for me). great job, thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Mark! I salvaged that steel from a job site years ago. Who can afford steel these days?😂
Those rear mounted forward and reverse controls are nice, they didn't have those back when I bought mine.
That was a big part of why I bought the R model. It’s extremely handy.
Yea, that was really cool to see. Will be handy for sure!
They would be handy, mine has telescoping bars but you have to be close even then.
It's just cheating! And how does a guy get a work-out if he isn't climbing up and down a dozen more times a day?
Weld some 3/8 grab hooks to the back of that bar and you can skid multiple trees at the same time. I welded some hooks to the back of my box blade and also to the top of my bucket, it just gives you more options on pulling out logs or hung up trees, throw a chain around something heavy and use the bucket to load it onto the back of your truck etc.
nice job! that's some fancy auxiliary hydraulics too. ;)
Way to go as your foot print weight when needed is there, but as you say when mowing or other light duty is needed you just take it off leaving less of a foot print, plus your cantilever advantage is great.
As a retired Pipefitter/welder, I have to tell you those are some nice looking welds, especially at 4:19 of the vid
That’s quite a compliment, Jake! I owe it all to my Miller welder. It makes a hack like me look like I know what I’m doing.
I'll certainly agree that Miller makes some nice machines, especially with the digital readout. But you sir, know how to set the heat and keep the proper rate of travel for what looks to be a 7018 type of rod.
Nice work.
I've done the same thing on our smaller tractors. We just take a 55 gallon drum, insert a heavy wall pipe through it, weld pins and a top hitch bracket and fill with cement.
Looks good to me!
Awesome job, any time you can do an diy project is way better than buying
Nicely done, I like the outside the box design. I can see a skidding winch in your future, you sure seem to have the timber for it!
Thanks! I’ve been looking at the winches. It’s a lot of money. Maybe I can build one😬
Brilliant!
each their own choice..if it works for you the very best..great videos
Thank you, Gary! I think it’s going to work well for me.
Very nice fab work on the Ballast, hitch, and boom set up.
Im thinking you should do a video on making the ballast, hitch and boom cause I really think you did a great fabrication job on them. We can build them but with a video it saves
a lot of work , better you figure it out than us, ggg. Happy new year !
Thank you! They’ve been working well.
I would also love to see a fabrication video, your welding skills should be shared.
I have same size tractor and I found that it needed wheel weights, and fill the back tires. It's all about 1100 lbs. I dont want to have something on back if it's a tight job, or I like a finish rake but they are light. Sweet ballast you made. Great work
Thanks, TLC Landscaping. It only sticks out 12” from the back of the draft bars so I’m hoping that space size won’t be an issue.
The rear ballast bars sure make your John Deere more balanced when using your forks to pick up big loads. Using the 3-point hitch sure makes your ballast bar a more flexible system.
Thanks, Bill. I’m sure it wouldn’t work for every situation but for what I need it’ll be just fine.
You could move it to where it is a few more inches back and it will provide even more ballast. But be cautious as lots of weight on 3 ph lower arms can exceed the tractors lift ability and cause damage. A quick hitch should be just about right increase in distance, but your top link connection will need to be modified to work with a quick hitch I believe.
Nice ballast build for low $$ investment!
Didnt have it centered first an second time but weight does help lots your right about being able to take it off when not needed as when mowing
And I live on hilly land. Trying to skid logs with an additional 1,000lbs would be even harder on the machine.
For lifting very heavy stuff I use heavy duty forks that attach to the back 3 point linkage. You risk busting your front end loader if you overload it which would be a real pain. Your ballast bar is an awesome attachment as it allows you to move around tight areas without a massive brush hog hanging off the back. I came to look at it as it looks like it could be made into a great grader too. And your welds are so nice, mine look like old chewing gum 😀 great work.
Thanks, Tim. I’ve thought about rear forks too but the three point is only rated at 2,500 lbs while the forks are almost 4,000 if I remember correctly.
@@NorthwestSawyer Really! Far out. I stand corrected. I have a 4049m with 4in1 front loader and my loader feels flimsy as hell compared to the 3 point linkage. I saw your mill, so cool. Im fabricating one but its taking months, wish id just bought one. I have a cattle farm in Australia in mountain country (lots of lumber). Looks like we would have a lot to talk about if we met. Best of luck with it all.👍
Also feels like the front wheels will pop if I lift with the front.
I would love to visit your part of the world sometime!
Nice job, Now mount ya a cutting edge on the front of your ballast and you have an inexpensive grader that works awesome.
Larry I was thinking the same thing!
Add the water to you tires. Won't hurt a thing, just make sure you put antifreeze in to keep it from turning to ice and cutting your tires up. I wouldn't dream of having a tractor without water. It aids flotation, traction, and ballast. Been doing it over 40 years!
Mark Henry Windshield washer fluid works great. I'm like you, wouldn't be caught dead without tire ballast. Or, actually, maybe I would.
I just seen your video I like your color balance
You could be used for other stuff to beans it's on the three-point and you are right center-of-gravity does make a difference when you're lifting something heavy
Thank you!
Counterweight on the 3-point is the way to go. It actually lightens up your front axle because the rear axles become the fulcrum point. The owners manual for my tractor actually talks about counterweight on the 3-point and goodworkstractor has an excellent video on the topic. He placed a tractor with its front axles on a set of scales and its rear axle on a separate set of scales to show the difference with and without counterweight. My manual states that in order to safely use the loader's full capacity you will need counterweight.
Definitely. And I read in my manual that tire ballast is not recommended.
@@NorthwestSawyer That's cause JD doesn't sell it 😂
HOT DOGGIE! Nice tractor
Thank you, sir!
Sweet weld.
That’s all Millermatic. Makes me look like a pro😬
Way cool!
Thank you !
Be mindful that you are now equaling the weight to keep from tilting but the stress you put on the front 4wd knuckles is tremendous. Watch for stress wear on the front to prevent a failure. I worked in the AG salvage in the past and have seen multiple broken knuckles. Love the informational videos.
Thank I jut got a 1964 John Deere 2010 industrial tractor with the front bucket I will probably need to do the same . I like looks of the new tractor over the old one you had
Me too!😬
Certainly much safer than what you were doing, just make sure you put it on when needed. Personally I prefer tire ballast and a box blade or bushhog for counterweight when doing loader work, but tire ballast alone works fine if necessary. You should weld on some chain hooks for choker chains.
Good luck
Great fabrication on the ballast bar. The one concern I have is that when taking it on/off it looks top-heavy and ready to flip over. Be careful. Maybe mounting it flat would have been safer. I love the back up buttons on the JD.
Your concern is correct. It is top heavy. Need to put some legs on it or make a stand for it to sit in.
I leave the brush cutter on and get a decent ballast. However, what you have there lends to more agility. The length of the brush cutter helps balance but I surely can't get wherever I want. Nice build.
Thanks, Daniel. I used my brush hog for ballast on my old tractor but sold it with the machine. Like you said, the short design really helps.
It will still ride good me my dad brother and a lot of people i know run water in tires with no problems
Looks good and works. I use a disc, or blade, but be careful lifting too much and blowing seal on cylinder. Been there, done that.
My three point has a 2,500lb lifting capacity. If my math is correct, my ballast bar should be just under 1,000lbs. I like how close it is to the back of my tractor. Helps for those hard-to-reach places😬
I should have clearified better, lift cylinders on front will start dripping.
I see. Well, if that becomes an issue I believe there is a cylinder upgrade I could get. Or a bigger machine!😬
If you use rim guard, made of beet juice, in the tires, it is non-corrosive and takes the weight off the back axle. It is fairly cheap if you a local supplier. The only problem I see with your ballast bar is the width - you may end up hitting a lot of stuff on the sides. A 30 gallon drum with concrete is about 700 lbs. Your tractor could handle a 50 gallon drum with concrete - about 1,000 lbs. Cheap drums don't cost much either. But your bar is ok too.
I put water ballast in the tyres on my wheel skidder. In 26.5x 28in tyres I reckon I have a safe 500kg total ballast.
A brush hog hanging on the back is what I use for ballast
In order for that 2 work right ur gonna half 2 paint it John Deere green.
Nice video! You need a iMatch LOL
good job, I just use my box blade as a ballast and if I need more I put the Brush-hog on. Do your self a favor an get a JD "I-Match" best thing I ever bought for my tractor, you don't even have to get off the tractor to change implements. You could build one yourself, I have seen home made ones but I only have a small welder and not much time so I just bought it.
Hello Sir, your video was EXACTLY what I was hoping to find during my search for the "perfect" ballast setup for my Branson 3520H with 2,100 lbs lifting capacity! I didn't realize that I could use these 8" square tubes WHICH I ALREADY HAVE and I'm definitely going to build one! I'm already envisioning chain hooks simply because I have extra laying around and I believe I will add 3 pass through receiver tubes to accommodate removable "forks" for two reasons, one I could use it as makeshift forks to add a compact metal or wood platform loaded with equipment & tools which I can carry to the area, drop it, then go to work and two, when the "forks" are centered, it serves as an anti-tip. The center tube could be used to put a hitch to pull my 6k wagon logging trailer.
My question to you, since you last made it 3 years ago, has there been any "Shoulda done that, added this" for your ballast? Any last minute suggestions/recommendations? Should I add a short third row on top of the two for extra weight?
The only thing wrong with the one I made is it needs some legs to keep it upright when it’s not on the machine. It’s easy to tip over. I also want to add a 2” receiver hitch to it. I found the weight to be plenty and it’s small size still allows me to get into tight spots. I bought a box blade a couple years ago and haven’t really used my ballast bar much since. Every once in a while it comes in handy.
Tire ballast is good and bad. Even with water and windshield fluid tire tubes break down and you end up with a rusted out rim. Calcium sure speeds that process up! Rear ballast and some wheel weights is the way to go.
Looks like ur a welder for a job nice work
I’m not but thanks for the compliment 😎. I just invested in a nice welder that makes me look good.
You are smarter than the average bear 👍
Just stay away from my picnic basket, Monnie 😬
Good job on the ballast … one question though , I have seen a few of these channels moving stuff with the forks … with the ballast will there be more of a chance of overloading the forks and causing front spindle damage , or cracking .. I have seen to different tractors break a right front spindle , just curious
That’s a possibility with an older machine but the newer ones are hydraulically limited to a certain weight. They wouldn’t be able to warranty them if they could tear themselves apart.
$45? You must have gotten the tubing for free?.BTW Nice design. Perhaps consider adding an additional clevis in the center of your weight for pulling, maybe even a trailer hitch. I think welding on a hitch receiver would be a decent addition.
I should’ve mentioned that the steel was all leftover or salvaged. I made a receiver for the three point already but could add one to this for next to nothing.
Get you a small bungee cord for putting on 3pt lowers. Place on the arm you're wanting to put on pulling towards the middle of the machine and a quick forward movement will put it right on. Don't stain your legs and feet kicking it. They move in an arc naturally wanting to pull "in" while moving forward keeping themselves on. Don't hook the arms together until 1 is on. The first one (once the arm is ready to go on the pin) you can hold the bungee (start with the arm opposite your controls). Basically, backup w/ 3pt in proper height and arms swung out. Pull the far arm towards you, adjust height and F/B as needed, then attach the bungee to the arm next to you and repeat. Give it a try and I bet in future videos we'll see a bungee on the back of your machine ;). Arms must be outside of the pins before being pulled in so you can't just connect them together. My bungee hangs out between the fender and the ROPS.
It actually came with a bungee between the draft bars. My old tractor had telescopic draft bars which were much easier to use. I need to get the hang rod these new ones. Thanks for the info. I’ll give it a try!
Yeah, they usually use one to keep them from flopping about w/ out an implement or something on them, but w/ the FEL on the machine always keep something of weight back there. FEL's on utility tractors are more of a convenience item and far more engineering is put into the machine as 3pt working piece of equipment, than a loader. If you've got a project of that requires a lot of heavy FEL work, you honestly might consider renting a skid steer unit to beat on. While a utility tractor looks like a dedicated TLB machine, there's considerable differences between our utility tractors and machines built for regular loader use. They're worlds apart.
Great video. I love your fabricated boom pole. I'll be purchasing a used John Deere 5100 shortly and could use a setup like you have. Would it be possible to get the dimensions, specs, and measurements of the steel used in your build?
To be honest, I just whipped this together out of scrap pieces I had laying around. I will say that the lower horizontal bar is 24” across and the upright is 36” tall. There’s no science at all to it. I would use steel that you feel will do the job you’re needing.
Ok, thanks. What part of the Northwest are you located in?
Estacada, Oregon.
In canada 16 ft of 8x8 1/4 wall tube is 400 $ and must buy 24 ft length for nearly 600 $ to get that price
So, you’re saying free was a good price. .😬
Do you have your back tires loaded with calcium chloride (salt water), That would help tremendously. It works for me.
Never use chloride in the tires. It corrodes the rims. It's what they did back in the day. Now beet juice is available. Its just as heavy, doesn't freeze, and doesn't corrode the rims. Washer fluid also doesn't freeze or corrode but isn't as heavy.
I find it interesting that JD doesn’t want you to put ballast in the tires. Is it possible your tractor has an aluminum transaxle?
A tractor with FEL without ballast is nearly useless.
Beat juice is fantastic.
Your ballast is too wide and will get in the way.
I like the idea of removable ballast. I’ve had no issues with the bar’s size so far. I looked into beet juice and it’d be cheaper to fill my tires with diesel.
Best take good care of the front end. That's a good way to over load and kill it.
In the John Deere book it says you must use ballast to use a loader. It seems like the loader system should include it from the factory for liability.
Your front axle and its gears will live MUCH longer if you DOUBLE the weight of your ballast by using your 2 mount points to place the additional weight further away from the rear. Think of your tractor as a 'seesaw' and instead of it having a single point of balance, it has 2 (the front and rear axles) except when you pick a rear tire off the ground, at which point your front axle has not only the entire weight of the machine on it, it also has the load you're picking up which is bad bad bad. The rear of the machine is substantially stronger than the front, so put as much weight as feasible on the rear when doing loader work. You cannot put too much weight at the back of a utility tractor when using the FEL. It takes several pounds of rear ballast to offset a single pound of FEL load. You don't want the rear to "just remain touching", you want lots of weight on the rear even when the FEL is loaded. Rear ballast saves your front axle. Don't confuse filled tires and wheel weights for ballast. Neither of the two take weight off the front axle.
I don't know how to prove it but by having the weight behind the center line of rear tires 3 or 4 feet there should be more then the 900 Lbs. on the back tires of the tractor? Dose anybody know?
You are 100% correct. The farther away from the tires, the more the leveraged weight on the tires. I’m sure there’s an equation to figure it out.
Thanks for the reply. I don't understand how an airplane wing can support 2 or 3 one ton jet engines or a plane can be loaded with 2 Army Tanks and take off but they do. Go figure
To calculate the moment the weight induces about the rear axle, find the approximate center of mass of the counterweight, and measure the distance between the center if gravity and the rear axle. Multiply the weight times the distance. 1000 lbs 1 ft from the axle us 1000 ft-lbs moment or torque. 1000 lbs 10 ft from the axle us 10,000 ft-lbs.
livefreeordie1
Thank You that makes sense.”
Nice job. Have you looked at Skidding Winches?
Not yet. I’ve thought about adding an electric winch to this setup.
I've been looking at a Farmi and a Uniforest Wireless control.
is that cheaper or better then tire juice?
Well, It's way cheaper and for me it's removable which is better. I don't always need a thousand extra pounds.
Lol. Chained to a tree.😬 Great video as always.
Thanks, Karen!😁
Nice multi-purpose engineering job.
I love how you think!
High quality videography also with no obnoxious head banging death metal overtaking the content too.
Thanks, Tom. No death metal. Got it!😬
Without the ballast, you have an easy way to change rear tires.
NW Sawyer, how can I get ahold of you? I don't see a private messaging option on your channel like I've found on a few others. I have a few cedar questions that you'll have better insight into as a NW Sawyer (I'm a few hours north in the Puget Sound Seattle area).
Aaron shoot me an email to 5tonfabrication@gmail.com. Send me your number and I’ll call you after work tonight.
Thanks for the advice Jason!
Any time!
Name your new tractor Ivory. You were floating.
Just a little😬
Put water in your rear tires
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Its still HARD on the front axles to work that tractor that hard. A used, ugly, rubber-tired loader can be had for $4-5,000. You really should consider that as your next long-term investment.
Well, I have a really hard time believing that John Deere would put a loader on a machine from the factory that could destroy it and still put a ten year warranty on it. The owner’s manual says you must use some type of ballast when using a loader and recommends against liquid in the tires. I don’t intend to max out the capacity every time I use it. I was just demonstrating the difference between ballast and not.
I busted two axles on a big john deere 4420, 4423 or something like that when I was moving sand. I hope you are right.
Patent that or someone else will
Tire calcium = rotted rims.
Schrader valves rot
And the alternative beet juice is over $5 a gallon.
@@NorthwestSawyer beet juice don’t freeze? Or are you yankin my chain lol
Oh nope. I looked it up. Learn something new every day. I don’t want anything in my tires. For what I do , I’d just as soon stay on top of the ground. Maybe if you were pulling a three bottom plow on solid ground
Pretty pricey per gallon.
WASTE OF MONEY MAKING BALLAST , ALL U NEED ON THE REAR , IS BOX BLADE SCRAPER U MIGHT CAN USE THAT FOR ANY THING U LIKE
Nice work.
Thank you, Kevin!