The EL Zone is a really cool! Just having all the information provided in stops over or under middle grey is so much more helpfully when communicating lighting changes with your gaffer on set. I'm keen to try this version of false colour more in future.
If your camera has more than 12 stops of DR than it’s not that good. It may show that you’re clipping if you expose for the brightest part of your image because it only shows +6 stops over middle gray.
@@luislomeli8732 for sure, it’s definitely a limitation. Especially for cameras like the Alexa35. I hope there’s an update which allows a larger dynamic range.
If you expose for the brightest part of your image EL zone may show you’re clipping when you actually have more latitude to play with if your camera has more than 12 stops of DR. FYI
super helpful video! How do you find the Indie 7 for outdoors on a sunny day? Not sure whether to invest more into the Cine 7... would love to know your thoughts
I have the SmallHD Cage with Sunhood for when I shoot outdoors. Even without the sunhood, the Indie7 is plenty bright. I haven't used the Cine7, but I assume it would be better.
For the record, the zone system was not invented by Ed Lachman, he adapted it to a cinematography context from the original zone system invented by Ansel Adams.
Let's say you work with EI and not ISO and you want a consistent EI base throughout your scene, would you simply adjust EI down to hit correct middle ground exposure and ND the rest? ..protecting your shadows. E.g: EI 500 + .3 ND key now @ T2.8. Pull out the .3 ND for a T4.0 on a long lens.
I have the same setup, komodo with the SmallHD monitor DSMC3, but on the style I don't have the option for EL Zone, just ARRI and other 4 options, none is EL Zone. Any ideas? The monitor is updated to the latest version.
Since you’re using red log, I’m not familiar with how to expose it properly… does it need to be overexposed as much as possible without clipping, like s-log3? Or is it totally different? And would this make a difference in exposing with the EL false color tool?
Assuming we are shooting RED RAW - I like to "overexpose" by shooting 400 ISO. It all depends on the scene and the situation I am in but 400 is generally where I keep it.
@@MarcosRochaTV not sure if you used Sony s-log3 for example, but that needs to be overexposed by AT LEAST +1.7 stops to get a proper image. Is there anything like that with red footage?
@@stevenkralovec 800 is native iso. thats the cleanest the image will get. No need to over or under expose unless theres a purpose. Sony isnt shooting raw, so its subject to a bunch of compression and sharpening and noise reduction in camera. r3d captures the raw sensor. changing the iso can shift a little more DR to shadows or highlights but thats what the EL zone and false color is for, so you can nail the skin tones or shadows etc.
I don’t see the benefit to other systems to be honest. If you are used to false color you get the same result you get with this system. It seem more organized with its color approach, that‘s definitely nice. But if you look at log to ire charts you will notice that a stop is approximately 10ire, half a stop 5 ire and so on. The stops make sense if you work on a set and everyone is used to metering. Also if multiple people work with different cameras on a project. But false color not measuring stops, doesn’t seems to be a problem at all, maybe for Ed😅
This is sooooo funny! You spend all your time futzing to get the proper exposure on the bust yet the lighting / exposure on YOUR mug is in the toilet. ("Physician heal thyself" should come into play here.)
It's ironic that you are talking about a tool that helps you set proper exposure, yet this video is not properly exposed. Did you use this system to expose THIS video? If so, I'm not sure this system is very accurate.
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for making this
The EL Zone is a really cool! Just having all the information provided in stops over or under middle grey is so much more helpfully when communicating lighting changes with your gaffer on set. I'm keen to try this version of false colour more in future.
If your camera has more than 12 stops of DR than it’s not that good. It may show that you’re clipping if you expose for the brightest part of your image because it only shows +6 stops over middle gray.
@@luislomeli8732 for sure, it’s definitely a limitation. Especially for cameras like the Alexa35. I hope there’s an update which allows a larger dynamic range.
If you expose for the brightest part of your image EL zone may show you’re clipping when you actually have more latitude to play with if your camera has more than 12 stops of DR. FYI
Excellent video. If you do more use cases with EL Zone I'll be sure to watch. Cheers from Norway.
Awesome content! I didn’t know about that. Great tool to help with the exposure!
super helpful video! How do you find the Indie 7 for outdoors on a sunny day? Not sure whether to invest more into the Cine 7... would love to know your thoughts
I have the SmallHD Cage with Sunhood for when I shoot outdoors. Even without the sunhood, the Indie7 is plenty bright. I haven't used the Cine7, but I assume it would be better.
Great video. Thanks for the information; it's very helpful.
For the record, the zone system was not invented by Ed Lachman, he adapted it to a cinematography context from the original zone system invented by Ansel Adams.
Ansel Adams and Fred Archer.
For some reason the Log3g10 is not showing up in my settings. Any thoughts or am I missing a step?
You need to setup a separate color space to chose from later
Let's say you work with EI and not ISO and you want a consistent EI base throughout your scene, would you simply adjust EI down to hit correct middle ground exposure and ND the rest? ..protecting your shadows. E.g: EI 500 + .3 ND key now @ T2.8. Pull out the .3 ND for a T4.0 on a long lens.
I have the same setup, komodo with the SmallHD monitor DSMC3, but on the style I don't have the option for EL Zone, just ARRI and other 4 options, none is EL Zone. Any ideas? The monitor is updated to the latest version.
I just made this video update: ua-cam.com/video/S8DJWko1RQo/v-deo.html
Great video!
Thanks!
So helpful 🎉
Im using the Canon c70 with the 702 Touch but I do not see EL Zone
Since you’re using red log, I’m not familiar with how to expose it properly… does it need to be overexposed as much as possible without clipping, like s-log3? Or is it totally different? And would this make a difference in exposing with the EL false color tool?
Assuming we are shooting RED RAW - I like to "overexpose" by shooting 400 ISO. It all depends on the scene and the situation I am in but 400 is generally where I keep it.
@@MarcosRochaTV not sure if you used Sony s-log3 for example, but that needs to be overexposed by AT LEAST +1.7 stops to get a proper image. Is there anything like that with red footage?
@@stevenkralovec 800 is native iso. thats the cleanest the image will get. No need to over or under expose unless theres a purpose. Sony isnt shooting raw, so its subject to a bunch of compression and sharpening and noise reduction in camera. r3d captures the raw sensor. changing the iso can shift a little more DR to shadows or highlights but thats what the EL zone and false color is for, so you can nail the skin tones or shadows etc.
hii, it looks like the ND you put up, was 0.9
How do you compensate when your camera has more than 12 stops of dynamic range? I wish there was a way to change that.
I think you have to look at the LOG image to double check.
Any change of getting this on Atomos Ninja V or Sony Cameras?
Ninja V now has it
Can the EL Zone system be used on Blackmagic products?
I think so, but I have not tested it on Blackmagic Cameras.
Yes it can
I don’t see the benefit to other systems to be honest. If you are used to false color you get the same result you get with this system. It seem more organized with its color approach, that‘s definitely nice.
But if you look at log to ire charts you will notice that a stop is approximately 10ire, half a stop 5 ire and so on.
The stops make sense if you work on a set and everyone is used to metering.
Also if multiple people work with different cameras on a project.
But false color not measuring stops, doesn’t seems to be a problem at all, maybe for Ed😅
This is sooooo funny! You spend all your time futzing to get the proper exposure on the bust yet the lighting / exposure on YOUR mug is in the toilet. ("Physician heal thyself" should come into play here.)
Only smallHD?
As far as I know. You have to check each manufacturer.
atom os 11, too
It's ironic that you are talking about a tool that helps you set proper exposure, yet this video is not properly exposed. Did you use this system to expose THIS video? If so, I'm not sure this system is very accurate.
T2 and F2 are not the same thing dude...
of course not