I have a 18 AWD Husqvarna. I have over 1,000 hours on it and it is still running great. However, I do not let the grass build up like that on the bottom of my deck. As soon as I finish cutting, I pressure wash the deck and it is clean and ready to go next time.
FWIW, if anyone is having trouble finding the ribbed timing belt, it's just a 2000-8M-25. I've been using one manufactured by D&D PowerDrive for the past 3 years.
Thank you for making this video, I have a rider 155 and broke the deck timing belt, I didn't know the deck did that, you didn't mention that if you pull the front main pin you can also fully remove the deck not just prop it out and up, made it much easier to replace that belt with the deck removed, awesome video
I also have a rider pro 15, my timing belt for the blades broke and I am having a hard time finding the belt and new blades. Do you have any suggestions or sources for the belt?
Just upgraded my motor to 19 Hp B&S. slightly longer and just needed the exhaust modified. Otherwise all good for continued re-building of mower. New motor has an oil filter cartridge, still has traction issues but maybe that's just a garden design issue that the owners of such plant and equipment need to consider in their garden design. Well worth the money spent for continued reliability, productivity and robust performance.... sorry I just caught myself sounding like a commercial for ride on mowers.
check out the husqvarna r322T, pretty much the same mower, but with all wheel drive. Thanks for watching! I actually just sold this mower last weekend to a friend with a fairly flat yard, so it should do really good for him.
have had to replace blades so yes I knew about this. now the part that the ribbed belt goes around is cracked NEED a new one. I am sure tires will be NEXT, SO not sure IF I (we) are goin got fix his time?
she's worth it. these machines in decent shape still fetch $500+ depending on condition. The newer ones can still bring a couple thousand as they discontinued them a few years back. As gas mowers in general start to disappear, the ones left will become more valuable. New belt should be $50-75, and is not hard to install. Tires can be had for cheap, but if they are not falling apart, you can tube them and they will stop leaking down (I have a video for that if you look in my library). I sold mine to a friend a few years ago and it's still doing great for him. I'm currently on a kubota g1800 that seems to cost me $300 in parts every time i mow with it. So far up to $1500 in parts... runs like a beast though with that 3 cylinder diesel!
Great video! I have an R18 and it has been doing a great job for over 10 years now but recently the height adjustment isn't working. I only have one choice of cut level and it's too short. Any suggestions as to how to fix it?
Hmm, so there should be a chain that runs up from the deck to the middle of the rider. Remove the 4 bolts and the center cover between your legs, and you should see the chain (it looks like bicycle chain) running from the lift lever down to the deck. At the deck, there should be a cotter pin holding the chain to the deck. Make sure that cotter pin is still there! And one other thing to check, make sure the back of the deck is hooked into its bracket. If the back of the deck slips off, it'll cause the same type of issue with height adjustment. Muisak@gmail.com if you need more assistance!
Just picked one of those but don't have it running yet. Mine is painted white over the orange but has all the decals in place. Seems odd to me. Looking forward to smooth mowing this summer. Yep, a 4WD model would be nice.
Nice video! Didn’t know the mulching deck on the Rider 16 was a timed one. Really hate that design so prone to fail. The later models got a regular belt instead. My Rider 16 has the rear discharge deck.
Well, there's actually like 3 or 4 decks available for these mowers, you really have to pay attention to get the right parts lol but this is the bioclip deck which is timed, but there were other decks available with different discharge (rear or side) that were not timed, so it really just depends on how it was ordered. I will say, as much as i love these mowers, they are one of the more difficult ones to look up parts for.
If you want to bring the orange plastic back, you can try 2 things, 1st is the easiest, regular ATF, wipe it on and it might bring the color back, or 2nd is buy a good heat gun, and just blow it against the plastic that will bring it back for sure, just take your time, and it will work, then use ATF automatic transmission fluid, don't use atf+4 or dextron/mercon, only regular ATF, hope it works for ya.
An update to my earlier comment: I never was able to get the deck in shape, mostly due to high cost of parts. Now it is used as a "personal transporter" for an old guy, me! Original motor deep sixed & I replaced with a used one. That was quite a chore due to figuring out how that pulley is attached. Anyway still a great "fun" machine. Cheers
@@danklem4984 Neither, the timing belt was tore up & I guess a previous owner had solved the problem by cutting the blades off so they would not hit, LOL. Bet it did a nice job of mowing!! I would like to restore the deck someday, if I live long enough!
Hey Josh. I just recently came into one of these, and I'm quite impressed with it. The only thing wrong with mine is that it doesn't have the wheels to go on the rear of the deck to pull it into the cleaning mode. I was wondering if you would know where I could buy a pair at. Since it's a 2002 model it's quite difficult to find those wheels. If anything, what size diameter are the rear wheels?
There should be a shear pin for each blade. If you hit something and the blades collide, it should shear that pin. The pins are like $5 each, so i've seen a lot of folks over the years replace them with steel pins that don't shear, but then when they hit something it usually breaks the belt instead. But if you get lucky and catch it in time, nothing is sheared and the belt isn't broke, just take the tension off the cog belt, reset the blades to 90 degrees offset, retighten the belt, and go! Getting those pins out once they have sheared though is a royal pain in the hind end!!!
I need to replace the drive belt on my rider 16, but can not find any videos showing the steps I have to take in order not to screw it up.. Can you help?
Both the 'workshop' and 'operators' manuals for the Rider 16 can easily be found online using a google search. Drive belt replacement is on page 46 of the workshop manual....it's super simple.
send me an email muisak@gmail.com. It's been ages, but I'll help you out. these things are tricky to those who aren't familiar with them. I'll need your exact model and serial from the side of the frame under the seat. Should say Husqvarna Rider 155, then a number like 965000001 something like that. Then, Take a photo of the deck that is currently on your mower from both sides and the front. There's like 3 options for decks on each model, and even though they all look similar, they are all VERY different. Hence why the belts are such a pain lmao. I'll keep an eye out for your email - Josh
Essentially, you want each blade 90 degrees to the next. Then spin the blades by hand and make sure they all clear one another. So when one blade is straight across, you want the next blade straight up and down. And then the third straight across
@@albarnhill1487 ah then that should be easy! the hardest part is loosening the belt haha :) its a toothed belt, like the timing belt on a car, so you just loosen the belt and move it a tooth or two at a time until its where you want it. Its tensioned with a spring so once you get it where its supposed to be, you just tighten the adjustment bolt down and your good to go! So when you have the timed deck, its called a bioclip. should be just about 41" cutting width. They offered two other decks for the same model that were not timed, i think another 41" and one slightly smaller if I remember correctly. When yo go to look up deck parts, make sure you're looking at the bioclip deck, because they will list all 3 in the parts diagram. The quality of cut you get with the overlapping blades is astounding! There's a few cub cadet mowers that use a similar deck design.
about 3 or 4 inches i think? really they just need to be big enough that when you lean the deck up in the front, the wheels will touch the ground in the back and allow you to slide the deck out. you can do it without the wheels, but it's a pain. They basically look like anti-scalp wheels with little stubs that clip into those brackets. Hope this helps! i sold my machine about 2 years ago so i don't have it here to look at. I've switched hats over the last few years and switched from being a mechanic to being an electrician and teacher, so my small engine days are about over! lol :)
visit www.partstree.com and enter your model number. this may take a few tries. A rider 16 can be looked up by entering Husqvarna R 16 or R 16 H (if it's a hydro). If you can't figure it out, call them, they can help you :) they have the parts
husqvarna still offers pretty much all parts for them aside from decals and cosmetic items. Sites like www.partstree.com or any husqvarna dealer can get you parts :) just make sure you look closely, there are several different versions and it's easy to order the wrong parts. I think there was 3 or 4 decks available for them, and not all of them are timed like this one, nor do they all flip up. But if you find one for a decent price, go for it! they are really easy to work on once you know your way around it. the ONLY husqvarna riding mower that's actually made in Sweden!
they actually did offer a different deck that wasn't timed, If memory serves me correctly they had 3 different decks, but yeah none of them were more than 41". That was a whole different era back then, I remember when 38" was the norm LOL. Cub cadet also did a timed deck, they leave a great cut until you hit something then all hell breaks loose lol. Good idea in theory, but I don't know about you, I'm not caring that much about a missed blade of grass here and there if it's $100 every time I hit something LOL. Thanks for watching!
@@HamiltonMechanical i very much agree.. i would rather have equipment that is built to last and is cheap and easy to work on then something that gives a near perfect outcome but is expensive to repair and needs it often.. that said though these are very cool machines other then the timed blades in my opinion
I had the same, but just put the blades back with the pins and whacked the wrong blade (which you easily could spot) with a rubber hammer into place. Little shift at the time until it aligned.
I just aligned mine after replacing the shear pin. I manually aligned the blades by adjusting the toothed pulleys with the timing belt on the mower deck. Once I could see blades were not going to hit after manually adjusting, then I would tighten the bolts and return the deck under the Rider.
Problem with predators is they are way over rated for the power they actually put out. It probably won't see an upgrade with my ownership, but if I was to come across a good 17hp kawasaki twin, well, we might have to think long and hard about that ;) I did mow foot tall grass with her in the rain a few weeks ago, and she didn't leave any clumps, and powered right though it, although a bit slow lol. That was asking a bit much of a single cylinder haha! Thanks for watching! :)
actually, as of writing this, it appears my john deere L120 might have just ate it's hydro rear end. I'm already over that mower, and can sell the body for parts and make back what I have in it, so she may get a 22hp briggs twin LOL :) I'll have to see if I have the space on the engine cover to go with such a large engine LOL. But who knows! we may see an upgrade this winter ;)
I sold this one to a friend of mine for $500. Good condition examples can fetch up to around $750. In 2001, this mower cost around $5,500. I actually uncrated this mower when it was brand new, then bought it from the owner 18 years later LOL.
@@HamiltonMechanical I just bought a Rider 16 last week. Its a basket case, but that never stopped me in the past. Does anyone have a line on parts for these. Ereplacementparts.com doesnt seem to offer much.
no sir, husqvarna called it an articulating mower, the front axle is fixed and the rear is a differential. it pivots on a pin in the middle of the mower. This is not built like the simplicity sunrunners or similar rear steer mowers.
They actually offered them with three different decks to standard and one timed. The timed deck can be a pain but man they leave a nice cut! Cub cadet has also made several models with timed decks
I have a 18 AWD Husqvarna. I have over 1,000 hours on it and it is still running great. However, I do not let the grass build up like that on the bottom of my deck. As soon as I finish cutting, I pressure wash the deck and it is clean and ready to go next time.
FWIW, if anyone is having trouble finding the ribbed timing belt, it's just a 2000-8M-25. I've been using one manufactured by D&D PowerDrive for the past 3 years.
Thank you for making this video, I have a rider 155 and broke the deck timing belt, I didn't know the deck did that, you didn't mention that if you pull the front main pin you can also fully remove the deck not just prop it out and up, made it much easier to replace that belt with the deck removed, awesome video
I also have a rider pro 15, my timing belt for the blades broke and I am having a hard time finding the belt and new blades. Do you have any suggestions or sources for the belt?
I got mine on ebay
@@jasonheinrichs8200 I looked, nothing there that has the part number printed on the belt itself. But im def searching.
Would the belt I got work on yours?
@@jasonheinrichs8200 Not 100 percent sure. Probably have to measure the belt and teeth
This trick is Also works for the Rider 13 bioclip! Thanks for your video,
Thank you so mutch ! Just what i have looking for .Didnt think it was, that easy again thanks a lots
Just upgraded my motor to 19 Hp B&S. slightly longer and just needed the exhaust modified. Otherwise all good for continued re-building of mower. New motor has an oil filter cartridge, still has traction issues but maybe that's just a garden design issue that the owners of such plant and equipment need to consider in their garden design. Well worth the money spent for continued reliability, productivity and robust performance.... sorry I just caught myself sounding like a commercial for ride on mowers.
check out the husqvarna r322T, pretty much the same mower, but with all wheel drive. Thanks for watching! I actually just sold this mower last weekend to a friend with a fairly flat yard, so it should do really good for him.
have had to replace blades so yes I knew about this. now the part that the ribbed belt goes around is cracked NEED a new one. I am sure tires will be NEXT, SO not sure IF I (we) are goin got fix his time?
she's worth it. these machines in decent shape still fetch $500+ depending on condition. The newer ones can still bring a couple thousand as they discontinued them a few years back. As gas mowers in general start to disappear, the ones left will become more valuable. New belt should be $50-75, and is not hard to install. Tires can be had for cheap, but if they are not falling apart, you can tube them and they will stop leaking down (I have a video for that if you look in my library). I sold mine to a friend a few years ago and it's still doing great for him. I'm currently on a kubota g1800 that seems to cost me $300 in parts every time i mow with it. So far up to $1500 in parts... runs like a beast though with that 3 cylinder diesel!
I wish I could find a snowplow for this style Husqy
Great video! I have an R18 and it has been doing a great job for over 10 years now but recently the height adjustment isn't working. I only have one choice of cut level and it's too short. Any suggestions as to how to fix it?
Hmm, so there should be a chain that runs up from the deck to the middle of the rider. Remove the 4 bolts and the center cover between your legs, and you should see the chain (it looks like bicycle chain) running from the lift lever down to the deck. At the deck, there should be a cotter pin holding the chain to the deck. Make sure that cotter pin is still there! And one other thing to check, make sure the back of the deck is hooked into its bracket. If the back of the deck slips off, it'll cause the same type of issue with height adjustment. Muisak@gmail.com if you need more assistance!
Just picked one of those but don't have it running yet. Mine is painted white over the orange but has all the decals in place. Seems odd to me. Looking forward to smooth mowing this summer.
Yep, a 4WD model would be nice.
I saw an awd version a while back, a lot of the newer ones made in the last decade are awd. Very nice find, my friend! Congratulations! :)
Nice video! Didn’t know the mulching deck on the Rider 16 was a timed one. Really hate that design so prone to fail. The later models got a regular belt instead. My Rider 16 has the rear discharge deck.
Well, there's actually like 3 or 4 decks available for these mowers, you really have to pay attention to get the right parts lol but this is the bioclip deck which is timed, but there were other decks available with different discharge (rear or side) that were not timed, so it really just depends on how it was ordered. I will say, as much as i love these mowers, they are one of the more difficult ones to look up parts for.
@@HamiltonMechanical how to assemble the plate and the choreas thanks help
If you want to bring the orange plastic back, you can try 2 things, 1st is the easiest, regular ATF, wipe it on and it might bring the color back, or 2nd is buy a good heat gun, and just blow it against the plastic that will bring it back for sure, just take your time, and it will work, then use ATF automatic transmission fluid, don't use atf+4 or dextron/mercon, only regular ATF, hope it works for ya.
Hi would you have the part number for thst belt you removed
An update to my earlier comment: I never was able to get the deck in shape, mostly due to high cost of parts. Now it is used as a "personal transporter" for an old guy, me! Original motor deep sixed & I replaced with a used one. That was quite a chore due to figuring out how that pulley is attached.
Anyway still a great "fun" machine.
Cheers
Any chance you have the blades and the timing belt for it?
@@danklem4984 Neither, the timing belt was tore up & I guess a previous owner had solved the problem by cutting the blades off so they would not hit, LOL. Bet it did a nice job of mowing!!
I would like to restore the deck someday, if I live long enough!
Hey Josh. I just recently came into one of these, and I'm quite impressed with it. The only thing wrong with mine is that it doesn't have the wheels to go on the rear of the deck to pull it into the cleaning mode. I was wondering if you would know where I could buy a pair at. Since it's a 2002 model it's quite difficult to find those wheels. If anything, what size diameter are the rear wheels?
What if the blades hit??? What do we do
There should be a shear pin for each blade. If you hit something and the blades collide, it should shear that pin. The pins are like $5 each, so i've seen a lot of folks over the years replace them with steel pins that don't shear, but then when they hit something it usually breaks the belt instead. But if you get lucky and catch it in time, nothing is sheared and the belt isn't broke, just take the tension off the cog belt, reset the blades to 90 degrees offset, retighten the belt, and go!
Getting those pins out once they have sheared though is a royal pain in the hind end!!!
I need to replace the drive belt on my rider 16, but can not find any videos showing the steps I have to take in order not to screw it up.. Can you help?
Both the 'workshop' and 'operators' manuals for the Rider 16 can easily be found online using a google search. Drive belt replacement is on page 46 of the workshop manual....it's super simple.
Was the above question answered? I need help too. Thank you.
I have this mower. I am having problems replacing the belts. Nobody can seem to be able to tell me what size belts it takes.
send me an email muisak@gmail.com. It's been ages, but I'll help you out. these things are tricky to those who aren't familiar with them. I'll need your exact model and serial from the side of the frame under the seat. Should say Husqvarna Rider 155, then a number like 965000001 something like that. Then, Take a photo of the deck that is currently on your mower from both sides and the front. There's like 3 options for decks on each model, and even though they all look similar, they are all VERY different. Hence why the belts are such a pain lmao. I'll keep an eye out for your email - Josh
Is there a trick to time the blades..
Essentially, you want each blade 90 degrees to the next. Then spin the blades by hand and make sure they all clear one another. So when one blade is straight across, you want the next blade straight up and down. And then the third straight across
@@HamiltonMechanical thanks there is 1 for sale locally for cheap, says the blade timing is off
@@albarnhill1487 ah then that should be easy! the hardest part is loosening the belt haha :) its a toothed belt, like the timing belt on a car, so you just loosen the belt and move it a tooth or two at a time until its where you want it. Its tensioned with a spring so once you get it where its supposed to be, you just tighten the adjustment bolt down and your good to go! So when you have the timed deck, its called a bioclip. should be just about 41" cutting width. They offered two other decks for the same model that were not timed, i think another 41" and one slightly smaller if I remember correctly. When yo go to look up deck parts, make sure you're looking at the bioclip deck, because they will list all 3 in the parts diagram. The quality of cut you get with the overlapping blades is astounding! There's a few cub cadet mowers that use a similar deck design.
What size deck does that model have
I bought a used Rider 14 pro , but it is missing the wheels for propping up the deck. Can you tell me how big in diameter they are?
about 3 or 4 inches i think? really they just need to be big enough that when you lean the deck up in the front, the wheels will touch the ground in the back and allow you to slide the deck out. you can do it without the wheels, but it's a pain. They basically look like anti-scalp wheels with little stubs that clip into those brackets. Hope this helps! i sold my machine about 2 years ago so i don't have it here to look at. I've switched hats over the last few years and switched from being a mechanic to being an electrician and teacher, so my small engine days are about over! lol :)
@@HamiltonMechanical Thanks.
My timing belt broke and I can't find one anywhere please help
visit www.partstree.com and enter your model number. this may take a few tries. A rider 16 can be looked up by entering Husqvarna R 16 or R 16 H (if it's a hydro). If you can't figure it out, call them, they can help you :) they have the parts
How's the parts availability with them? I'm looking at one locally and think of picking it up.
husqvarna still offers pretty much all parts for them aside from decals and cosmetic items. Sites like www.partstree.com or any husqvarna dealer can get you parts :) just make sure you look closely, there are several different versions and it's easy to order the wrong parts. I think there was 3 or 4 decks available for them, and not all of them are timed like this one, nor do they all flip up. But if you find one for a decent price, go for it! they are really easy to work on once you know your way around it. the ONLY husqvarna riding mower that's actually made in Sweden!
Have 1 need help with deck belt. Hus. That side discharge .
Rider 16 deck belt replacement ?
these would have been so much better if they just went with a bigger deck and the blades didnt have to be timed
they actually did offer a different deck that wasn't timed, If memory serves me correctly they had 3 different decks, but yeah none of them were more than 41". That was a whole different era back then, I remember when 38" was the norm LOL. Cub cadet also did a timed deck, they leave a great cut until you hit something then all hell breaks loose lol. Good idea in theory, but I don't know about you, I'm not caring that much about a missed blade of grass here and there if it's $100 every time I hit something LOL. Thanks for watching!
@@HamiltonMechanical i very much agree.. i would rather have equipment that is built to last and is cheap and easy to work on then something that gives a near perfect outcome but is expensive to repair and needs it often.. that said though these are very cool machines other then the timed blades in my opinion
How do you align the blades??? I hit some metal and now they are out of alignment.
I had the same, but just put the blades back with the pins and whacked the wrong blade (which you easily could spot) with a rubber hammer into place. Little shift at the time until it aligned.
I just aligned mine after replacing the shear pin. I manually aligned the blades by adjusting the toothed pulleys with the timing belt on the mower deck. Once I could see blades were not going to hit after manually adjusting, then I would tighten the bolts and return the deck under the Rider.
Do I see a Predator upgrade in its future?
Problem with predators is they are way over rated for the power they actually put out. It probably won't see an upgrade with my ownership, but if I was to come across a good 17hp kawasaki twin, well, we might have to think long and hard about that ;) I did mow foot tall grass with her in the rain a few weeks ago, and she didn't leave any clumps, and powered right though it, although a bit slow lol. That was asking a bit much of a single cylinder haha! Thanks for watching! :)
actually, as of writing this, it appears my john deere L120 might have just ate it's hydro rear end. I'm already over that mower, and can sell the body for parts and make back what I have in it, so she may get a 22hp briggs twin LOL :) I'll have to see if I have the space on the engine cover to go with such a large engine LOL. But who knows! we may see an upgrade this winter ;)
How much is this mower worth
I sold this one to a friend of mine for $500. Good condition examples can fetch up to around $750. In 2001, this mower cost around $5,500. I actually uncrated this mower when it was brand new, then bought it from the owner 18 years later LOL.
@@HamiltonMechanical I just bought a Rider 16 last week. Its a basket case, but that never stopped me in the past. Does anyone have a line on parts for these. Ereplacementparts.com doesnt seem to offer much.
They don’t actually articulate. It is a swivel axle.
no sir, husqvarna called it an articulating mower, the front axle is fixed and the rear is a differential. it pivots on a pin in the middle of the mower. This is not built like the simplicity sunrunners or similar rear steer mowers.
they'd be great mowers if not for the interference blades. Possibly the worst designed thing Ive ever encountered
They actually offered them with three different decks to standard and one timed. The timed deck can be a pain but man they leave a nice cut! Cub cadet has also made several models with timed decks