I expected this video to include setup of the Victron to the Renogy batteries and was surprised when it ended without re-configuring the MultiPlus. The MultiPlus charging parameters are not the same as the Renogy batteries, if you are doing this buy the adapter to connect your laptop to the Vistron and set the charging parameters according to your batteries - Renogy batteries are not listed as supported by Victron so settings need to be adjusted. Even the charging voltage is different. Hope the original poster actually changed the parameters.
You mentioned electric cooking. Well we have lithium and an induction hob plus the electric kettle which has been great given the calor gas fiasco, but how to go full electric is tricky to work out. Oh and the cooker space is just 450mm. That's a challenge too. Look forward to an vlog on your electric cooking.
Might be a while before I get that video out but definitely worth doing. We use a dual vango 1600W hob that's 470mm wide and is the smallest dual that we could find. We also keep a tefal single in the cupboard for when we're anchored. Might be a case of having one in a cupboard and one in use..
Hmmm, you probably need to read the victron manual. There is a setting called "has DC SYSTEM" so you can see exactly the charge/discharge from the dc to dc charger on the cerbo screen. Also, it's a lot easier to just leave the multiplus on, it passes through when it isn't inverting. What I really want to do is link the renogy bms to the victron canbus. Then the soc will be accurate :)
Thanks for the comment, how did you connect the renogy BMS to the victron canbus, with an RJ45? I spent some time when we were setting it up but didn't get very far.
@@ChasingMermaids I haven't managed it yet. There are some interesting discussions on the victron community pages, apparently somebody has managed it with a raspberry pi. Problem is its the j1939 protocol rather than canbus/NMEA2000 from what I have read, there are converters around, but victron will still need to read the messages correctly, which is not necessarily in their best interests given their own battery range.
Right yeah that makes sense. Surprising for Victron they do support some 3rd party batteries (www.victronenergy.com/live/battery_compatibility:start) but notably Battleborn and Renogy aren't in there. I wonder if it's them trying to keep market share or just a lack of collaboration...we've survived so far and it's not too much of an inconvenience.
Thanks for mentioning possibly syncing the Renogy BMS with the Victron Cerbo, I’m trying to do something similar in a small camping trailer and in a perfect world would love to be able to monitor everything via the Cerbo GX display output, especially since it also has tank monitor sensor inputs. Please provide updates if you’re able to get them to sync, thank you!
@@gearboto as far as I can tell you can't sync the renology to victron, however you can put a smart shunt inline that you can set to be the device you want to monitor.
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a set up with renogy DC -DC that controls solar pannels, and vehicle alternator power ..to the LiBatt .. no shore power capabilities. I'm considering replacing Renogy inverter with the victron multipluss 3k .. any reason why you have a solar controller in addition to your Renogy DC-DC? do you had any issues setting up Victron to the Renogy batteries? Thank you so much
Renogy DC-DC is quite limited on total W and voltage. We do have some panels on the DC-DC which does a handy trick of topping up the starter battery every morning, but most of the charging comes from the Victron solar controller. Any reason you're not looking at the Renogy inverter of the victon one? It's about half the price and has a remote to switch on/off. The charger in the victron invertor is handy but not really essential..
Good upgrade but can’t understand why you didn’t get 5 years or more from your leas acid/? You must have had too small a bank so you were discharging then too much, over 50% regularly. Lead acid, for instance AGM if kept to 70% deepest discharge, so not using over 30% most of the time should last you 5 years easy.
Yes, somewhere between 300-500 cycles at 50% so for us living on board about 1-1.5 years unless there's a mistake and you accidentally drop them all the way down. We had I think x5 lead acid batteries, there wasn't space for many more. The daily cycles combined with the cold knocked them out too often. We had a voltage cut-off to protect, but when your heating doesn't come on in the morning a few times you know it's time to upgrade. Overall the lifetime cost of the lithium will be lower and for longer multi-day sailing passages we've found them a godsend.
@ChasingMermaids we live onboard full time all year round last 7 years. Do not winter in marinas either. Mostly at anchor ⚓️. 440ah, 24v 1200w solar 6kva generator. Our batteries are still going strong after 3.5 years. Victron AGM. Our boat is heavy on power with electric bow thruster pulling over 600 amps, electric winches electric furling genoa, electric furling main, etc. Our previous boat still has the same batteries we installed, so now 5 years old, over 10000nm sailed, full-time l8ve aboard by us and new owners.
Heya, I don't have the ones on the multiplus as they were set by someone else and I don't have the data cable....but we just went with the supplier's recommended voltages. As for current, they set it a little low around 70A. From looking at the solar + the multiplus, the renogy batteries are very good at regulating their input current so it's not that important as long as you get the voltage right. The earthing settings are particular to your set-up.
Renogy will provide that info for your specific Renogy batteries. Open a ticket on their support page and they will send them to you. Annoying it isn't in the battery manual.
Looking at renogy producs to put on my 27ft boat. How are you finding the renogy products over the victron? I would love to go full victron but the £1000 per battery is putting me off.
The renogy batteries are great. They deliver a higher discharge rate at half the cost of the victrons. There's no reason that I can see to go for the victrons. Yes you cannot see them on the victron app but you can on the renogy app. Renogy also have a better dcdc charger that includes an mppt solar charger. If your plan is to run AC power for cooking, you could avoid any victron and use a renogy invertor/charger. They now have a 3kW one at 800 quid. If not just keep your existing charger and run it through the DC/DC. You should be able to move to lithium for about 700quid for one battery or 1300 for two. You can always add a second lithium battery if one isn't enough. A handful or even a few months of cycles isn't going to make much difference. Just make sure that you makeup all the cables at the beginning so you have the same copper to run any additional batteries through. Given all the renogy products now available, I would have opted to not buy any victron. Battery review here from someone who sounds like they know what they're talking about: ua-cam.com/video/aahHWaV6Zdk/v-deo.html
I expected this video to include setup of the Victron to the Renogy batteries and was surprised when it ended without re-configuring the MultiPlus. The MultiPlus charging parameters are not the same as the Renogy batteries, if you are doing this buy the adapter to connect your laptop to the Vistron and set the charging parameters according to your batteries - Renogy batteries are not listed as supported by Victron so settings need to be adjusted. Even the charging voltage is different. Hope the original poster actually changed the parameters.
You mentioned electric cooking. Well we have lithium and an induction hob plus the electric kettle which has been great given the calor gas fiasco, but how to go full electric is tricky to work out. Oh and the cooker space is just 450mm. That's a challenge too. Look forward to an vlog on your electric cooking.
Might be a while before I get that video out but definitely worth doing. We use a dual vango 1600W hob that's 470mm wide and is the smallest dual that we could find. We also keep a tefal single in the cupboard for when we're anchored.
Might be a case of having one in a cupboard and one in use..
Hmmm, you probably need to read the victron manual. There is a setting called "has DC SYSTEM" so you can see exactly the charge/discharge from the dc to dc charger on the cerbo screen. Also, it's a lot easier to just leave the multiplus on, it passes through when it isn't inverting.
What I really want to do is link the renogy bms to the victron canbus. Then the soc will be accurate :)
Thanks for the comment, how did you connect the renogy BMS to the victron canbus, with an RJ45? I spent some time when we were setting it up but didn't get very far.
@@ChasingMermaids I haven't managed it yet. There are some interesting discussions on the victron community pages, apparently somebody has managed it with a raspberry pi. Problem is its the j1939 protocol rather than canbus/NMEA2000 from what I have read, there are converters around, but victron will still need to read the messages correctly, which is not necessarily in their best interests given their own battery range.
Right yeah that makes sense. Surprising for Victron they do support some 3rd party batteries (www.victronenergy.com/live/battery_compatibility:start) but notably Battleborn and Renogy aren't in there. I wonder if it's them trying to keep market share or just a lack of collaboration...we've survived so far and it's not too much of an inconvenience.
Thanks for mentioning possibly syncing the Renogy BMS with the Victron Cerbo, I’m trying to do something similar in a small camping trailer and in a perfect world would love to be able to monitor everything via the Cerbo GX display output, especially since it also has tank monitor sensor inputs. Please provide updates if you’re able to get them to sync, thank you!
@@gearboto as far as I can tell you can't sync the renology to victron, however you can put a smart shunt inline that you can set to be the device you want to monitor.
Very informative. 😊
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a set up with renogy DC -DC that controls solar pannels, and vehicle alternator power ..to the LiBatt .. no shore power capabilities. I'm considering replacing Renogy inverter with the victron multipluss 3k .. any reason why you have a solar controller in addition to your Renogy DC-DC? do you had any issues setting up Victron to the Renogy batteries? Thank you so much
Renogy DC-DC is quite limited on total W and voltage. We do have some panels on the DC-DC which does a handy trick of topping up the starter battery every morning, but most of the charging comes from the Victron solar controller.
Any reason you're not looking at the Renogy inverter of the victon one? It's about half the price and has a remote to switch on/off. The charger in the victron invertor is handy but not really essential..
This is awesome! Do you have an updated on TighShip?
We're mainly working on a sailing app: www.BoatPing.com right now. Did you have a question about TightShip?
Good upgrade but can’t understand why you didn’t get 5 years or more from your leas acid/? You must have had too small a bank so you were discharging then too much, over 50% regularly. Lead acid, for instance AGM if kept to 70% deepest discharge, so not using over 30% most of the time should last you 5 years easy.
Yes, somewhere between 300-500 cycles at 50% so for us living on board about 1-1.5 years unless there's a mistake and you accidentally drop them all the way down. We had I think x5 lead acid batteries, there wasn't space for many more. The daily cycles combined with the cold knocked them out too often. We had a voltage cut-off to protect, but when your heating doesn't come on in the morning a few times you know it's time to upgrade.
Overall the lifetime cost of the lithium will be lower and for longer multi-day sailing passages we've found them a godsend.
@ChasingMermaids we live onboard full time all year round last 7 years. Do not winter in marinas either. Mostly at anchor ⚓️.
440ah, 24v 1200w solar 6kva generator. Our batteries are still going strong after 3.5 years. Victron AGM. Our boat is heavy on power with electric bow thruster pulling over 600 amps, electric winches electric furling genoa, electric furling main, etc.
Our previous boat still has the same batteries we installed, so now 5 years old, over 10000nm sailed, full-time l8ve aboard by us and new owners.
Any chance you could post your renogy battery settings for the multiplus? I’m having a devil of time tracking them down.
Heya, I don't have the ones on the multiplus as they were set by someone else and I don't have the data cable....but we just went with the supplier's recommended voltages. As for current, they set it a little low around 70A. From looking at the solar + the multiplus, the renogy batteries are very good at regulating their input current so it's not that important as long as you get the voltage right. The earthing settings are particular to your set-up.
Renogy will provide that info for your specific Renogy batteries. Open a ticket on their support page and they will send them to you. Annoying it isn't in the battery manual.
Looking at renogy producs to put on my 27ft boat. How are you finding the renogy products over the victron?
I would love to go full victron but the £1000 per battery is putting me off.
The renogy batteries are great. They deliver a higher discharge rate at half the cost of the victrons. There's no reason that I can see to go for the victrons.
Yes you cannot see them on the victron app but you can on the renogy app.
Renogy also have a better dcdc charger that includes an mppt solar charger.
If your plan is to run AC power for cooking, you could avoid any victron and use a renogy invertor/charger. They now have a 3kW one at 800 quid. If not just keep your existing charger and run it through the DC/DC.
You should be able to move to lithium for about 700quid for one battery or 1300 for two. You can always add a second lithium battery if one isn't enough. A handful or even a few months of cycles isn't going to make much difference. Just make sure that you makeup all the cables at the beginning so you have the same copper to run any additional batteries through.
Given all the renogy products now available, I would have opted to not buy any victron.
Battery review here from someone who sounds like they know what they're talking about:
ua-cam.com/video/aahHWaV6Zdk/v-deo.html
@@ChasingMermaids thanks for the information and your thoughts, think I know what way I'm going now 👍