@@builditwithrob Cool I will certainly keep that in mind, thanks. This was for a customer's vehicle. I do mobile auto repair. I gave him a very good price on changing out the starter. He was stranded at his work parking lot. I was surprised how easy the starter replacement was so I charged a little less. I guess it paid off for me because he came back to me fairly quickly asking me to do the front brakes. My only gripe with the Hummer is that it pretty much destroyed my wheel chocks, lol. I was too dirty to get in and just move it a few inches so I pounded on them till they came out. Oh well, I've been needing to get some better ones anyway.
You know someone is clever when they’re good at fixing cars even though they aren’t mechanics and have a total different trade. Where ever ive worked the most technically minded guys who took pride in their work also happened be into cars/fix their own.
Just push the grease tub polo disc down and the grease oozes up to meet you 🙂 I know it's easy for me sat here on the sofa - but save your back and always push down on the ratchet rather than pull up. You're less likely to push it off the axle stand too!
Just to let you know when you change the disc's on a car or truck you are best off putting brake clean on a cloth and wiping them, then drying them otherwise the brakes could slip a bit. Also I recommend putting some copper anti seize on the back of the pads as it stops them from siezing
This is the only video that shows how to replace the rotors---it's the same on just about every other vehicle, I just wanted to make sure it wasn't like the Chevy Colorado rotors.
@@thomaswykes3647 I wouldn't risk it. I'd have stuffed the old pads back in if I needed to re-assemble, but there's always the danger that you'll get some of the brake fluid (oil) on the disc also, though you can probably clean that with the brake cleaner spray if you're careful.
Hi Mate, i live in Australia. I have hummer h2 2005 model. I need to change front wheel bearing but it is hard to get parts here for Hummers. So can u guide me what is the part number or size dimension for wheel bearing so i can order online 15:36
Didn't see you clean the new break disks before putting the pads on.... they are coated in grease to stop them rusting so they will contaminate your new brakes..
@@builditwithrob ahhh safe. I've had issues with my Vectra with break fluids ruining my alloy when leaking. Great work mate. Loving the Eco videos too!
Yeah get a good sized breaker and torque wrench. Halfords advanced come with lifetime guarantee too. Probably cost less to buy than a weeks worth of fuel for the beast!
Jesus Rob! 5:12 you're going to bust your ratchet doing that! Buy yourself a 3/4" breaker bar and appropriate socket, and don't ever use a cheater bar on a ratchet, the teeth won't live very long otherwise! I do hope you torqued the bolt to 234Nm when you finished rather than just that impact gun tight? I also tend to coat the back of the pads in copper anti-sieze, and the same with the wheel studs. Any reason you couldn't just buy new wheel studs and press the snapped ones out, or were the hub bearing knackered anyway?
@@builditwithrob no worries. We all learn by doing, but definitely get yourself a torque bar! All the bolts for the calipers and the wheel nuts need to be torqued. If you've snapped studs, it might be because you've used too many ugga-duggas to tighten them. Do em up till the first click on the gun, then torque in an opposites pattern until all are at the desired torque. Halfrauds do a good value 1/2" bar, that goes upto 200Nm so enough for your hub nut. My landies need a bit more - 220Nm, so I have a 3/4" norbar bar which is enormous! 3/4" breaker bars tend to be longer too - mines 1.25m long and you can get adapters to 1/2" (though for your hub nut, I'd advise buying the right 3/4" socket). Too much strain on a 1/2" bar can see you either shearing the teeth on your ratchet, or the pawl, or on a breaker bar just straight up twisting the 1/2" nub off!
@@builditwithrob I’m getting in touch with Ecotrus soon about doing my loft, but it’s gonna be a much bigger job than I’ve seen you tackle so far on UA-cam.
Told you I could hear a noise the other week! 🤣🤣 I love being right! 😜😜 looking good tho, can't wait for you to spray it blue 😍🥰
Nobody likes a smart ass lol
@@builditwithrob You love being a smart ass! But I did tell you so 🤣😘
Rob is she talking about spraying the hummer or something else?
I just did this today thanks to this video. Here are the torque specs:
lug nut: 140 lb ft
caliper to bracket: 80
caliper to knuckle: 221
Thanks Matt
I’ve got loads of hummer build videos on my channel if they help
@@builditwithrob Cool I will certainly keep that in mind, thanks. This was for a customer's vehicle. I do mobile auto repair. I gave him a very good price on changing out the starter. He was stranded at his work parking lot. I was surprised how easy the starter replacement was so I charged a little less. I guess it paid off for me because he came back to me fairly quickly asking me to do the front brakes. My only gripe with the Hummer is that it pretty much destroyed my wheel chocks, lol. I was too dirty to get in and just move it a few inches so I pounded on them till they came out. Oh well, I've been needing to get some better ones anyway.
@@mattmgarza
I replaced the discs pads and rebuilt my callipers with new seals and pistons, bleeding the brakes however is very challenging
You know someone is clever when they’re good at fixing cars even though they aren’t mechanics and have a total different trade. Where ever ive worked the most technically minded guys who took pride in their work also happened be into cars/fix their own.
Thank you
That "FUCK YES!" feeling is always so damn good!
What no loft work Rob no dust, plaster board ect ! You must be on holiday 😩 them home Jobs 👍👍👍
Just push the grease tub polo disc down and the grease oozes up to meet you 🙂
I know it's easy for me sat here on the sofa - but save your back and always push down on the ratchet rather than pull up. You're less likely to push it off the axle stand too!
Thanks for the advice I’m learning as I go, never done this work before
@@builditwithrob well, you've got a bloody big motor to learn the tricks on there pal - and fair play to you doing it in a white hoodie too !
I was thinking of paying a mechanic, but naw, I’ll do it myself, I usually use the jack arm as a cheater bar. Thanks for the motivation. 😃👍
Your welcome
Haha, made me laugh when you cut to the flames!
SOME GUY THEE. ROB ,take care . cheers Mick.
Great video, how much did you pay for all those new parts?
What a smart truck, great video
Cool, so when you come to do my loft out can you fix my car 🤣
Squeeze those brake pads together with a large C-clamp to compress the caliper pistons..then the caliper just falls off..no pry bar struggling..
Thanks Robin appreciate advice
Lovely job!
New subscriber here! Great video mate. Can't believe the amount of corrosion of the underside components. Great work tho pal
Thanks bud I’m learning as I go
Just to let you know when you change the disc's on a car or truck you are best off putting brake clean on a cloth and wiping them, then drying them otherwise the brakes could slip a bit.
Also I recommend putting some copper anti seize on the back of the pads as it stops them from siezing
Thanks bud
This is the only video that shows how to replace the rotors---it's the same on just about every other vehicle, I just wanted to make sure it wasn't like the Chevy Colorado rotors.
That caliper has contaminated those pads. Need new pads now
Will they not clean up
@@builditwithrob a good wash in brake cleaner spray and I would use them.
@@thomaswykes3647 I wouldn't risk it. I'd have stuffed the old pads back in if I needed to re-assemble, but there's always the danger that you'll get some of the brake fluid (oil) on the disc also, though you can probably clean that with the brake cleaner spray if you're careful.
Might as well done your axles and steering components when you was in there lol. Those will be next. Also was this a 6,12, or a 24 pack of beer job?
Fantastic vid mate.
Get a brake pipe clamp to stop the fluid all leaking out
Thanks bud
Hi Mate, i live in Australia. I have hummer h2 2005 model. I need to change front wheel bearing but it is hard to get parts here for Hummers. So can u guide me what is the part number or size dimension for wheel bearing so i can order online 15:36
Hello friend
I ordered all my parts from PARTS USA
Thanks mate
Love the videos bro hello from Manchester
Hello from Leeds lol
@@builditwithrob haha hope all is well pal
You must have some cash , nice car 👍
Didn't see you clean the new break disks before putting the pads on.... they are coated in grease to stop them rusting so they will contaminate your new brakes..
Good advice pal. I’m not a mechanic I just try to do things my self thank you before I drive I will wipe them down
@@builditwithrob Dish soap or brake cleaner will do the trick.
@@chrisE815 thanks pal
Won't that ruin your wheels with it dripping?
I clamped the pipe bud
@@builditwithrob ahhh safe. I've had issues with my Vectra with break fluids ruining my alloy when leaking. Great work mate. Loving the Eco videos too!
Did you not screw the disc onto hub?
Hello Craig what do u mean by screw disk onto hub
Have a look at the new hub, I’d love to know where you can see a screw hole. These don’t have them. Just the wheel hold the disc in place.
Torque spec is 177 lbs on spline nut you over tighted them with that impact drill !
Yeah get a good sized breaker and torque wrench. Halfords advanced come with lifetime guarantee too. Probably cost less to buy than a weeks worth of fuel for the beast!
@@Phil.Oakley you can take off the spline nut with the impact , but , I would torque em putting them back on , I ruined some already 🤯
@@kingralph9133 I always impact off and if a ball ache I'll impact on lowest nms til it nips then torque up.
you should clamp the rubber brake hose, that will sto[ all the brake fluid coming out
Thanks Keith great advice
You need a 4 ton jack my friend
Yes I do lol
What size is the big socket?
Think it’s a 26mm
35mm
Rob your definitely from yorkshire...born n bred.....lol.
What area Leeds Bradford Skipton Huddersfield 🤔🤔
I’m from Leeds lol
Jesus Rob! 5:12 you're going to bust your ratchet doing that! Buy yourself a 3/4" breaker bar and appropriate socket, and don't ever use a cheater bar on a ratchet, the teeth won't live very long otherwise! I do hope you torqued the bolt to 234Nm when you finished rather than just that impact gun tight?
I also tend to coat the back of the pads in copper anti-sieze, and the same with the wheel studs. Any reason you couldn't just buy new wheel studs and press the snapped ones out, or were the hub bearing knackered anyway?
Thanks for the advice bud, I’m no mechanic but I try. Appreciated he help
@@builditwithrob no worries. We all learn by doing, but definitely get yourself a torque bar! All the bolts for the calipers and the wheel nuts need to be torqued. If you've snapped studs, it might be because you've used too many ugga-duggas to tighten them. Do em up till the first click on the gun, then torque in an opposites pattern until all are at the desired torque. Halfrauds do a good value 1/2" bar, that goes upto 200Nm so enough for your hub nut. My landies need a bit more - 220Nm, so I have a 3/4" norbar bar which is enormous! 3/4" breaker bars tend to be longer too - mines 1.25m long and you can get adapters to 1/2" (though for your hub nut, I'd advise buying the right 3/4" socket).
Too much strain on a 1/2" bar can see you either shearing the teeth on your ratchet, or the pawl, or on a breaker bar just straight up twisting the 1/2" nub off!
You edited out about an hour of pounding with a hammer getting the wheel hub out of the steering knuckle.
Them disks look 🤔 ching ching
lol. this dude doesn't have time... he wants to build train set ... now, focus cars. lol.
Rob, stick to lofts mate, your no car mechanic! 😉😂😂😂
I know lol gotta try tho
@@builditwithrob I’m getting in touch with Ecotrus soon about doing my loft, but it’s gonna be a much bigger job than I’ve seen you tackle so far on UA-cam.
@@barryford7135 I’m excited to hear about the job, we love a challenge
@@builditwithrob well hopefully it comes off, not far from Leeds, just off jct 29 M1.
I'm early!
Hommer? 😂