Great set of tips! One more tip for the impatient. Once glue up is done, walk away and stay away. I sometimes want to move on to the next stage, but it's important to let the glue fully cure before messing around with the piece.
That’s a great point. Thanks for sharing that. You’re absolutely right. Especially with this type of glue that cures slowly. And if you jar it when it’s close to cure time you have a serious problem. That glue up is in fact still in clamps. 👍
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Hi Paul, These are great tips. I archive these for woodworking. Thank you for this informative video. All the best. Your friend Mehmet
Hey Paul, thanks for this video. Glue-up stress is definitely something that I would like to reduce in my future builds, so this is very helpful. I also try to glue-up in phases when I can to separate the process into manageable chunks. Your tip about the Elmer's Glue is extremely helpful. I was not aware that Elmer's cured slower than the Titebond III that is also my go-to.
Hi Steve, thanks for watching. Yeah, my tests show that Glue-All has about twice as much open time. You can get even quite a bit more with Hide glue, but I Glue-All generally gives me plenty. Here's an article that I wrote for WWGOA a few years ago where I tested the assembly time on a bunch of woodworking glues: wwgoa.com/article/measuring-wood-glue-assembly-time/
Ha! Yes, I did have a glue up freeze up on me one time before I could get it square. That was my last time using quick setting glue for anything complex. :) Thanks for watching, Charlie.
Nicely done & that's exactly how I do glue ups! Also, make sure that you have something between the edges of the clamps & the item that you are gluing up in order to prevent the clamp from damaging the wood. Or, just use clamps that have that protection already on the clamping surfaces.
Great tips Paul! Another excellent glue when you need long open time: Titebond hide glue. It offers at least a half hour of open time, and the squeeze-out washes off with warm water, whether the glue is wet or completely dry. It also accepts wood stain pretty well, so it can come to the rescue at finishing time if you’ve missed a little smudge somewhere. Very worth giving it a try-our forebears depended upon it.
Thanks, Chris! You make a very good point. I actually have a couple bottles of hide glue on my bench, and almost used it for this. I do use it occasionally for long open time, or to repair antiques, but I don't have as much experience or familiarity with it as I do with PVAs, so I ultimately decided to use the Glue-all. I actually used some hide glue on this project to fix a small router ding, as I find that it also makes a good filler for small patches on walnut, mixed with some sanding dust, and looks better than PVA glues or epoxy for that application. One reason that I shy away from it is that people say it has a one year shelf life. Mine is probably 5 years old, but it seems to flow like brand new so it's probably ok, but I don't want my daughter's bedside table to fall apart. :) A lot of people also say that PVA glue has a 1-2 year shelf life, but I asked an engineer from Franklin about that one time, and he said it isn't true at all. He told me that if it is still in a liquid form, it will still have enough holding power to be stronger than wood. I'd guess that probably applies to hide glue as well, at least to an extent. Thanks for watching, and for sharing the suggestion. Cheers.
Great set of tips! One more tip for the impatient. Once glue up is done, walk away and stay away. I sometimes want to move on to the next stage, but it's important to let the glue fully cure before messing around with the piece.
That’s a great point. Thanks for sharing that. You’re absolutely right. Especially with this type of glue that cures slowly. And if you jar it when it’s close to cure time you have a serious problem. That glue up is in fact still in clamps. 👍
Hi Paul,
These are great tips. I archive these for woodworking. Thank you for this informative video. All the best. Your friend Mehmet
Thank you Mehmet, for watching this video and sharing your thoughts. All best to you my friend. Cheers 🍻
@@ToolMetrix you're welcome mate. Cheers Paul
Thanks for the tips. I am currently building a desk. I will surely be using some of your tips when assembling.
That’s great. Thanks for watching, Carl.
Awesome tips Paul! Great video.
Thanks sir!
Hey Paul, thanks for this video. Glue-up stress is definitely something that I would like to reduce in my future builds, so this is very helpful. I also try to glue-up in phases when I can to separate the process into manageable chunks. Your tip about the Elmer's Glue is extremely helpful. I was not aware that Elmer's cured slower than the Titebond III that is also my go-to.
Hi Steve, thanks for watching. Yeah, my tests show that Glue-All has about twice as much open time. You can get even quite a bit more with Hide glue, but I Glue-All generally gives me plenty. Here's an article that I wrote for WWGOA a few years ago where I tested the assembly time on a bunch of woodworking glues: wwgoa.com/article/measuring-wood-glue-assembly-time/
@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the test data Paul. Very helpful.
My pleasure Steve.
Good info, Paul. Truly sounded like the voice of experience. So much so that I was half expecting you to say "don't ask me how I know this" LOL!
Ha! Yes, I did have a glue up freeze up on me one time before I could get it square. That was my last time using quick setting glue for anything complex. :) Thanks for watching, Charlie.
Wow ... Elmer's school glue, never would have even considered it !!! Thanks for the video and tips. Much appreciated
Thanks for watching,David. Keep the shiny side up on that motorcycle. Cheers 🍻
Nicely done & that's exactly how I do glue ups! Also, make sure that you have something between the edges of the clamps & the item that you are gluing up in order to prevent the clamp from damaging the wood. Or, just use clamps that have that protection already on the clamping surfaces.
Good suggestion, thanks Steve! Cheers, Paul
Great tips Paul! Another excellent glue when you need long open time: Titebond hide glue. It offers at least a half hour of open time, and the squeeze-out washes off with warm water, whether the glue is wet or completely dry. It also accepts wood stain pretty well, so it can come to the rescue at finishing time if you’ve missed a little smudge somewhere. Very worth giving it a try-our forebears depended upon it.
Thanks, Chris! You make a very good point. I actually have a couple bottles of hide glue on my bench, and almost used it for this. I do use it occasionally for long open time, or to repair antiques, but I don't have as much experience or familiarity with it as I do with PVAs, so I ultimately decided to use the Glue-all. I actually used some hide glue on this project to fix a small router ding, as I find that it also makes a good filler for small patches on walnut, mixed with some sanding dust, and looks better than PVA glues or epoxy for that application. One reason that I shy away from it is that people say it has a one year shelf life. Mine is probably 5 years old, but it seems to flow like brand new so it's probably ok, but I don't want my daughter's bedside table to fall apart. :) A lot of people also say that PVA glue has a 1-2 year shelf life, but I asked an engineer from Franklin about that one time, and he said it isn't true at all. He told me that if it is still in a liquid form, it will still have enough holding power to be stronger than wood. I'd guess that probably applies to hide glue as well, at least to an extent.
Thanks for watching, and for sharing the suggestion. Cheers.