1980-2008 FL Rear Tire Alignment Explanation Harley Davidson
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2015
- Poor handling, abnormal tire wear? CAUTION: If your bike is handling poorly call your motorcycle mechanic and have them perform these steps! Harley Davidson FL series rear tire alignment for years 1980-2008 explained. The rear tire has to be aligned with the swing arm, and then the engine/transmission-swing arm has to be aligned with the front tire. This is a rubber mounted motor/transmission/swing arm setup where the swing arm is mounted directly to the TRANSMISSION, not the frame. The transmission is coupled to the frame (along with the front part of the motor) through rubber bushings which can become weak over time and cause alignment and handling issues. Proper handling and good tire wear can only be achieved through correct alignment steps. There is a lot to read about in how to do this and varying opinions on which way is the "correct" way to do it. This video shows one way which has been written about, but is certainly not the only way to do this. The tire widths front and rear are almost identical, so the string alignment method was pretty straightforward. Having front and rear tires of different widths will make that more difficult, but can be done.
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8 years later and your video just saved me a ton of work and mistakes. Absolutely clear instructions and you make it look easy.
I hope you are a teacher, If not you missed your calling. That is by far the best video and explanation of a task I have seen on YOU TUBE. These are also( after 3years of watching YOU TUBE videos) The first comments pos or neg I have ever been been so moved to make.
Thank you, Chris
I don't feel I deserve such high praise, but thank you very much for saying so, Chris. I am not a teacher not an expert, just a regular guy trying to figure things out.
Wide gluide front tyre thinner than back
Thanks for taking the time to allow others to understand the alignment of Harley Bagger motorcycles, hopefully It will help people and make the road a safer riding place for those that have alignment handling issues
I have to say, since applying these steps, replacing the rubber bushings in the transmission mounts, and adding a stabilizer link bar from the transmission to the frame, it handles like a freight train on rails! Perfectly straight over whatever the road can muster, even two-up.
Man, that was the best explanation I have seen on youtube, excellent!!
This is by far in the 'BEST' category of how to Fix/maintain 'my' Harley that I've seen.
It's a shame, but when the so called 'top pros' get started on these kinds of
issues, I find that they just want you to know how smart and pro they are and
they tend to skip the details that you actually need, and of course they then
tell you to go watch another video of theirs or go to their website, ha ha, or
buy a subscription to something else that they sell us, that may or may not be of any
use to us.
Thank you!!
Hello Mark! oustanding explanation!!!! I´ve read several times my maintenance manual but until now I fully understand "the meaning" (LOL). thank you so much and my best regards from Mexico, Paco.
03 FLSTC and 02 FXDWG
Amazing video! Very comprehensive. Thank you.
You have excellent communication skills brother. Good job.
Thank you for saying so!
Dont know if this was your idea or a copy of a tool. But I am flat out impressed. So simple yet dead on accurate
Nice video man! Even 5 years later it's exactly the information I was looking for.
My 06 Electra Glide thanks you too.
Thank you for letting me know!
This is one great video. Can’t wait to check mine. You couldn’t have explained any better. Thank you.
by far the most informative video I have seen. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Helped my understanding. Was having vertical alignment issues.
Wow. Amazing video. A ton of valuable information here. Thanks so much for explaining so thoroughly.
Awesome job my friend, thank you for your time making and explaining step by step on this alignment. Very good job.
Mark, thank you, just started to get the wobble issue and noticed the same rear traking right, so this is going to help me put all back into allignment. hreat instructions
Thank you!!! This helped me more than you could imagine. My 1996 Electra Glide Ultra Classic rides like new.
absolutely superb video!
fully explained the entire geometry of the motorcycle as it relates to the engine and transmission unit.
Thank you, Ken!
A PLEASURE TO SIT THROUGH AND LEARN. MY SINCERE THANKS.
Well done, been looking for this a long time. thanks.
Glad you found it, John.
Hello Great instructional video. Thank you for showing HD riders the correct method to align the wheels properly. I have just replaced my rear tire for the 1st time on My 96 Ultra Classic and your instruction will allow me to ride down the road with confidence. once again Thanks. Respectfully Archie Ontario Canada
Great to hear, Archie. This did make a night and day difference in both how the bike handled and extended tire wear. Good luck and happy riding to you!
Very good video explanation of all the components involved in the alignment process.
Thank you for saying so, I appreciate that!
Thank you so much for this video! 10000 percent answered my questions.
Wow a lot of information to take in but thank you for going out for the UA-camr guys
Great explanation on alignment - thanks!
Excellent video! Thank you. Ride safe.
Thank you sir for this great video & explanation of everything.
Good explanation. On my electra glide with cruise control set I take my hands off the handle bars. It tracks straight and stays balanced. A good indicator for tracking.
Amazing video thank you so much. As soon as my new parts get here Im going to try to get it aligned. Really nice your is the same year as mine judging from the MM fuel injection. I hope it works!
Thanks for a Fantastic video Mark! You have explained things in a way that all makes sense!! I have a 2006 Road King with 13,000 miles that I bought last year. Supposedly, it had no accidents. It pulls consistently but mildly to the left, just a little, so I barely notice any pull with my hands(s) on the bars. If I go "no hands" I have to shift my weight a little over center. I have talked to one Harley shop and the mechanic recommended that I add weight to my right side saddlebag!! Another Harleys only shop told me "I don't get enough calls on bad tracking to buy the expensive equipment", but recommended I buy a pair of tires from him!! (My tires look to be wearing fine) I just bought a Progressive Suspension Touring Link( Bagger Brace) and plan on installing the components, but if everything doesn't line up for the connecting Link, I won't install it until a real alignment is done. Progressives directions say "the connecting rod length is preset and should not require adjustment, but if it does simply loosen the lock (on the hyme joint). With the new found knowledge from your video, I will go to another shop and see if they know anything about wheel alignment......
Bob, thank you very much for your comments. I tried to explain everything and show that you don't necessarily need expensive tools to find out if the alignment isn't true. I made the swingarm measuring stick with some rod and a rubber grommet. My tires were wearing fast, so that was a sign. Also when I had the windshield off (which had a leather bag attached to the backside) I could see that the line down the Road King headlight was aiming to the side instead of inline with the gas tank. As a side note, I bought one of those frame to transmission links like what you are talking about and I am very glad I did. Even though I replaced the rubber bushings in the rear transmission mounts (my bike was close to 50,000 miles at the time), these links do a great job at keeping the rear of the transmission (and the attached swingarm) from moving side to side. You'll be glad you bought it. No regrets. Worth every penny. Good luck with your machine!
Excellent vid for anyone to understand,😊
Excellent demonstration!
Thank you Tom! That bike ride noticably better after all those adjustments.
i use a magnetic 8 inch level on the rotors when i make my vertical adjustment. just letting the rear wheel hang isnt enough. especially if you have worn out rear isolators.
Something important that was not mentioned in the video or your comment is making sure the motorcycle's frame is level before trying to check/adjust the vertical axis of the engine/trans/swingarm. If your garage floor and/or your lift are not level, then the frame will not be level, and the adjustment of the vertical axis of the rear wheel will not be accurate. You may find that you will have to shim the frame on the lift to get the frame level, side to side.
Correct, the tire hanging wont work, the rear rubber mounts will resist movement, and be sure to recheck the front to rear alignment! Either adjustment will reflect the other. On 69 to 07 models kent more offers a tool set the dealers are required to purchase that draws the real swing arm pivot shaft into vertical and horizontal alignment one both links are unbolted so the tech can just adjust them to fit in the mount holes correctly. Sadly on pre 96 models the tool set will not work as the frames were not jig welded. )On those I use a 8 foot long florescent light tube not a string/ I was a instructor for the HD department of the training school certified by HD.
Now I heard from a decent mechanic that if your replacing a mount you can leave all your mounts a bit loose run the engine a couple minutes and it will find its natural center and you can tighten it all down.
Good job.i think you got it.
Only on Dyna models!
Great vid, I replaced my rear tire and the clymers manual i used gave a measurement distance +/- from the swing arm reference points you showed in this vid. I assumed that if the distance is equal (within specified measurements) on both sides the wheel is aligned properly.
I've never had to adjust the motor mounts or swing arm. All said Im going to check all alignments again. Ty
You're welcome, Ronin. Be safe!
Great vidoes. So helpful. You explained everything. You talked to the lost ones like me. Lol but you made it clear. And how one thing affects the others. Great job... See you at street vibs in Reno if you come here. ... Scott from Reno NV.... Heritage Softail....
Hey, thanks Scott! Ride safe and often!
Great information and we'll presented.
Thank you.
On my 2006 RG the bolt centers tire for belt tensioning. But found offset swing arm bushings that'll do that job inside the swing arm. But everything else you mention was amazing. Why I'm looking into not only the alignment but all the bushings of the swing arm and motor mount because I started getting the death wobble when I didnt have before. Thank you for making easy to get it all straight. Also it matters on tire. Found that there 3, 4 and 6 ply tires. why would there be anything less than 6 for motorcycles tires is scary. So one thing I make sure is 6 ply tires.
I sure appreciate the time... This video was a big help..
The alignment is quite critical for the bike to handle well on the road. I agree with you on how to adjust the rear wheel and swingarm, and also how to make the adjustment on the front motor mount, to get the whole "packet" straight. Now you have two wheels pointing in the same direction, that's good.
However, I feel there's some room for errors if you adjust the "dogbone" beneath the gastank in the manner you propose. You loosen it up and adjust the "dogbone" to fit into the bracket without any effort. But, what guarantees that the engine has the correct sideways placement just because it "wants" to sit there? I would feel much safer to measure the correct value, and ensure that the two wheels are aligned also in that direction. So that my rear wheel doesn't lean to the left or to the right, as compared to the front wheel. A simple way to get a reading would be to remove the rear shocks, and measure the distance between the mounting bolts on both sides. It should obviously be the same distance on both sides, that way you would be able to confirm that the engine/tranny/swing is aligned also sideways!
As an alternative method you can always make sure that the bike is standing perfectly upright, by using a level on the front disc, make your adjustments on the dogbone beneath the gas tank, and then check that you get the same reading on both the brake discs, front and rear.
This is only my humble opinion, and I do NOT seek to offend anyone, least of all you Mark!
I have great respect for you and the videos that you make, in fact I have been using some of your tips regarding the compensator and primary chain tensioner. Been riding all summer with my modified compensator (added two shims to increase the spring tension and it worked perfect).
Thanks for the tip! Without know anything I want to say, I was wondering why Mark didn´t took tha gas tank off? my though was I should be easier without the tank!
Great video. I've been going nuts trying to solve my 65 mph straight line wobble. I think my problem lies with the motor out of alignment. Can't wait to check it. Thanks.
I'm curious, what year bike? I hope you find what's out of whack. Nothing like the feeling of a stable bike after the alignment was done.
Thank you very much for this lesson😊
Excellent video
Great information thank you
my o3 ultra classic has fixed rear adjustment ,,will try the front allinment to see if that helps
Great video
great explanation!
Thanks!
great video!
Thanks!
Just did my bike according to your video. Can't tell you what a big difference it made my bike was wondering catching rats in the road not anymore thanks
thanks for the vid I have 68 xlch that seems out of wack left side is 1 1/2 gap from fender to support and the other is 1 away from the fender to support so now I have some what of an idea where I may need to check thanks again
Update me on what you find out, and take good care of that girl!
Nice very good info thank you
Thank you for saying so, I appreciate it.
Iv watched several of the vids to see witch way looks best and this one is the one I will try some work with a laser
Thanks a bunch ! :)
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice video explanation of this procedure. I've aligned quite a few of these FL's. On my personal '95 FLHR I installed a 02 to 08 swing arm with 1" rear axle. Much beefier swing arm and you get the rear cam style adjusters. I have worked on a lot of these FL's and FXR's that had the square tube swing arm crushed from ham fisted mechanics over-torquing the rear axle. Of course there is a lot to change with this swing arm swap but I felt like it was worth the extra work. Noticeable difference in handling.
My 2003 RK has a welded cam on the rear axle assembly and cannot be adjusted per your video. All that can be adjusted is the belt tension.
sorry it took so long?
no man,this was great.
Thanks for the comment! Sometimes these videos seem too long when I put them together.
Alignment tolerances are proportional to top end speed. A racing bike with at 150 mph or more running speed may need high precision measuring devices and techniques not shown in this vid. But this vid isn't for a race bike prepping for track day. It's for bikes that cruse between 65-95 mph with occasional bursts up to 100-110 mph - that as decades gone by have shown, can be aligned with straight edge / manual point measuring like shown in this vid and seen in technical manuals. A note to consider though, Harley does have models with intentional off-sets in proper front and rear wheel horizontal alignment that make the string wrap method in-effective on the off-set side. The manuals call for using a channel run such as a raised lip transporting rail or even an "H" or "C" channel length of steel girder so as to have set paralelles to measure the proper offset. Strings "could" work but you would need to know the exact distance of what the offset should be and the string mounted forward of the front tire on the offset side by which two more measurements must be taken at the front wheel that are equal to each other after ensuring the the rear tire and front tire are both aligned on the non-off set side prior. You would think if they were, you wouldn't have to worry about the offset side as it would have to be lined up as well, but the procedures call for ensuring the offset gap as well.
Thank you for the comment, Jeff. Are you saying that the front and rear wheels are supposed to be offset from the factory? In my mind I have exaggerated an offset where the rear tire is grossly offset to the point that the bike would practically be going down the road sideways. Accelerating and braking should cause a bike in this situation to lean to one side or the other relative to the forces applied. I wouldn't think such a situation, even if small, would be desired? That's why I put emphasis on alignment of the rear wheel with the tracking of the front wheel in this video. There was noticable improvement after this alignment which even my wife as a passenger noticed.
Great video thanks! Question, i have installed your front mount on my bike about a year ago. really great product!! My bike handles okay (for it being a Harley) but I have never checked the alignment of it EVER. It goes down the road straight as an arrow, i am curious to know if you recommend just checking it to check it. Thanks, Kenny Wise
Hello Kenny, thanks for the compliment on the video, and a good question! I will answer your question with a few questions. Is your bike wandering when going around corners? How does it track over cracks in the road? Do the tires show unusual tread wear? Are you getting the "normal" mileage out of your tires? My bike was showing all of these signs, plus I could see, due to the straight-ahead trim piece on my Road King headlight nacelle, that the front tire was turned slightly to the right just to go straight down the road. My tires were not lasting more than 3,000 to 4,000 miles, and the handling felt "squirrelly" around corners and over rough or cracked roads. I don't know how it got this far off as I bought it from a previous owner and there were no service records available for me to look at. Tire wear since the alignment has been very good, handling is much improved (improved even further with the installation of new rear rubber mounts and a stabilizer link which I highly recommend to anyone with the FLH rubber mounted rear transmission). In short, if it ain't broke Kenny, don't fix it!
'Chase the top adjustment' @ 11:24 is covered at about 14:25 ,
I was confussed about this 'top' adjustment, it is explained very well
starting at the second 'time stamp' .
thanks i might try that be cool.
I read a few comments. Not seeing an answer to my question I thought I’d ask. I have a 2008 street bob. It doesnt wobble, up to 90 mph anyway. But it wants to track left when coasting. To correct that I have to lean slightly right. It should go straight. I have a similar wheel alignment tool made with a defluxed welding rod and aligned the rear wheel prior to testing again. Would it be the engine alignment? Anyone? Thx in advance.
That's awesome, my question is I thought there were transmission bolts you would have to loosen, very informative.
Hi Just thought id like to say thanks for your video Ive just carried out this on my 1990 flhs, eveything alined now ,but how much clearence should there be between the drive belt & tyre i have about an 1/8" dos'nt seen much regards Grahame
Hello Grahame, I am not aware of a measurement of space between the tire and the drive belt. I no longer own that bike or I would measure mine for a comparison. If the bike is aligned straight and true, and the belt is not rubbing against the tire, I would think 1/8" would be ok, but it would be best to check with other sources such as a Harley shop mechanic or someone with a similar year bike with the wide drive belt. The bike I have now has a wider 180 rear tire and the narrow drive belt, so I cannot compare.
thanks you just got old dog new tricks thanks jim
I’m working on a 1996 road king with slow speed wobble !! I’ll check it out let you know how it works !! Thanks for the video
Mark, check your rubber discs that are supposed to hold the rear swing arm firm. As they get older they lose their stiffness and contribute to that condition. I replaced mine and could feel the difference!
I’m working on my 1996 road king also with a slow speed wobble did you ever figure it out
Excellent 👍🏻🇨🇦
thank you very much. it is the source of my 75 mph wag. so I call it.
I could feel the bike wander under certain conditions. So could my wife as a passenger. After this realignment those wandering feelings went away. Very stable riding. The frame and engine/transmission mounts had good intentions but also some weaknesses. Also tire lifespan went up.
First, great video and thank you for making it. Second, where did you get the original information/instructions, you referred to?
Thank again from South Mississippi
I found a service manual that detailed the alignment procedure, and picked up some tips online. Glad you liked it, be well!
I noticed you didn't loosen the swingarm/rear transmission mount shouldn't everything be loosened and retightened to align everything correctly?
Great way to do this. I've been trying to come up with some way other than a ruler. thanks.
Take your time and make sure the string line is not touching anything other than the tires themselves. I just went through this whole process again after installing new rubber swingarm bushings, just to be sure the alignment wasn't changed.
My back tire is smaller than my front tire on the Road King. How would you handle that? Or would you add some spacer to the rear so the lines are perfectly parallel?
As is mine. So what I did was carefully center the front tire between the two string lines, then I would check the gap on both sides of the front edges of the rear tire (the string line will be tight against the rear edge of the rear tire, so as they a pulled further apart by the front tire's width, this will form a sort of "V" configuration). Make sure the string line does not go over lettering on the tire or anything like that which could throw off the measurement. NOW, measure the gap on both sides where the string line angles 'away' from the front part of the tire. A quick check is to go to each side and push the string line to the tire's leading/front edge and get a feel for how much free play or gap it has until it makes contact. Mine was about a 1/16th of an inch on both sides. If one side is touching the front edge of the rear tire and the other side isn't (has a gap between the string line and the leading edge of the rear tire) this may indicate that your rear tire is not centered with your front, which would mean it would have to be turned to the left or right depending on which side the gap is on. You want an equal amount on both sides. If it is difficult to tell which side has MORE of a gap, meaning they are very close, you probably don't need to adjust a thing. As described in the video, the gaps on mine were noticeably different. If you do believe it is out of alignment based on this method, and think it should be corrected, contact a motorcycle mechanic you trust to perform the job correctly. It does make a difference in how the bike handles, which could lead to bad things if it is not done right.
How is your bike handling right now, Marion, and how are your tires wearing? I noticed without the windshield in the way, that my headlight nacelle was actually pointing to the right when I was going straight down the road, and that my tires we wearing down the tread faster than it should. I wasn't getting as many miles out of them as I thought I should based on what others were getting for the same tires. If it looks like your headlight is straight ahead, and you are getting about average tire tread life, and it 'feels good and stable on the road' you many not have an issue worth playing with. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?
Yea, I hear you. I get myself in trouble sometimes trying to fine tune what is good enough. Visually, I can't see any misalignment going down the road. . It had been flipped upside down when trying to load it on a trailer (by the previous owner). The tires are wearing OK but that was before the thing was turned over. The front engine mount, handle bars and clutch lever was replaced. I have two issues which I'm not sure this will address. The bike pulls mildly but consistently to the left. (not noticeable with hands on bars) and I seem to have more vibration a idle than I think I should have. The pulling to the left could be tires, not sure. The vibration is bothersome. Yesterday, I noticed it running a little funny and a check engine like coming on at higher reves. I pulled the plugs when I got home. The front plug was less than hand tight. I'm hoping that's my vibration issue as maybe I was losing some compression or whatever. I wanted to wait till this morning for it to cool and torque them back to spec and take test ride. They look good, maybe on the lean side but that's where the manual says they should be. Kind of gray/ white looking. Anyway, I was thinking it would be nice to verify the alignment since the bike fell off the trailer and the motor mount was changed. Today, I'm going to pay more attention to the way it tracks down the road. The bike was neglected. I'm going through everything, I'm mechanically capable of, which is limited, but fun to tinker with.
With the bike on the lift put a level on the top of frame seat area and hold a level vertical against the rear rotor to adjust upper dog bone tighten everything up and then check all alignment angles again before you pull it off the lift
Спасибо. Вполне всё понятно )
The H-D service manual shows how to make the rear axle alignment wire and procedure to align the whole bike. If you replace the swing arm and/or the front rubber mounts, remove all the dog bones first. Install the new swing arm mounts and tighten. Then install the new front mount. Hand tighten the two bolts to the frame and leave the through bolt loose. Lift the front othe engine a number of times. This centers the front mount in relation to the swing arm. Tighten up the front mount per manual. At this point reinstall the upper and low dog bones (and trans support if you have one. The dog bones are adjusted so the bolts slide in easy with no load on dog bone. They only keep the engine from moving side to side or off vertical. The trans stabilizer keeps the swing arm from moving side to side. Finally alight the rear axle to the swing arm. I don't usually check front to rear wheel alignment - if it is way off there is likely a motor mount issue, or the forks my have slipped in the triple tree.
Thank you for posting that explanation.
Thanks Mark for your instruction video. Following step by step have bike strait like a dream. Prior to the adjustment had replaced swing arm bushes, rear engine mount rubbers and front engine rubber mount. The think I got is that my engine on the lefthand side is touching frame at the bottom. If can drop your thoughts in this matter I would be grateful. Thank you!
Is the motor touching (front area of frame) or the transmission touching (rear area of frame)? The transmission rubber pucks should have it centered between the frame as long as the shims were put back in correctly. The front motor mount should keep that area centered and high enough that it doesn't touch the frame there either. I didn't take notice on my bike how much of a gap there was to the frame. Is it possible that side of the frame got bent somehow? Pushed in?
@@contact4mwy7 It is front area where engine is touching the frame. I haven't noticed any frame irregularity at the bottom either. What I have noticed during the assembly is that the left hand side bracket holding engine rubber mount was slightly mismatched with frame holes for them two bolts. Same situation had with left hand side rear shock-absorber where bolt didn't line up with swinging arm bolts hole. Last think is that rubber bracket to engine did not rest on the rubber mount with its own weight.... RoadKing '99. Thank you Mark...
Is it noticably vibrating against the frame? Showing any signs of damage from chafing?
How much of a gap is on the right side of the frame to the motor? As I remember, the front motor mount has elongated holes for the two bolts that clamp the plate to he frame bracket, which allows the mount to slide left or right as needed. Can you verify that the plate is centered? If not, you may have to loosen the ham nuts on the "dog bone" stabilizer and readjust to center, then lock the jam nuts to the new position. You mentioned some of the bolts did not line up when you replaced the motor mount? The left shock did not line up quite right when you put that back together which makes me wonder if the motor/transmission is either turned slightly to the left, or if the top bracket is leaning slightly to the left.
@@contact4mwy7 Plenty room on the other side. Yes she not in the center. It is shifted to the left hand side. Going to move it back to center and see what happen _ as you said. I hope this wound set it all off aliment - probably it will. I wasn't happy with that rear engine mount reassembly it give me so much headache trying get it right. Another pare of hands would be welcome.... Mark thank you for your very much quick responds. Will get back to you in few hours with some results I hope.
Wouldn't it be easier to pull the tank? Ps great vider. My Harley is fine but my Kawasaki is falling in wierd . I just wanted to remember the string thing but you gave me alot more info. Thank you good sir. I've saved this video and will sub. Turns out I'm already a sub.
woulnt the motors vertical movent when releasing the top mount throw off the bottom wheel alignment in the opposite direction? should both mounts be released before beginning the lower alignment so the engine assembly will stay itself vertical during the lower adjustment?
Good question. The lower front mount lines up the engine/transmission from left to right. The top mount lines it up vertically side to side. Any relation of movement will be very minor to each other and should not throw off the measurements by any noticeable difference.
I noticed this as well. The FM technically call out completely removing the top mount from the bracket before aligning the front mount.
Lot Of Work ! /;-))) peace
Mine looks more to left like a washer is missing or tire is bigger a wants to rub fender on left side
very informative footage , now I guess I know why my FXR wobbles at higher speeds ...
Worth looking into, Don, if you have this type of frame configuration.
What about the swing arm bushings supposed be inspected?
Yes, they should be inspected for wear. Mine were worn out and I did replace them with new. That helped to firm up the handling even more.
impressive.
Thanks!
7:17 You loop the string through the rim I assume to keep it from falling down, but
how do you get it (the string) to match the height 'then' on both sides? Is that height then easy
to match?
Yes, the loop holding onto the tire makes it easier to adjust the same height on both sides. Having the bike as vertically straight up as possible I'd a must.
@@contact4mwy7 Ok, thanks much, I corrected a quesion
about the ; chase the top adjustment....'
comment that you made, I see it
is explained perfectly later on.
Great video sir!
before you do adjustments after you jack the rear wheel off the ground shouldn't you check to see if the frame is level on the top frame rails under the seat then dial the rear wheel, front wheel and then the engine alignment ? the frame does need to be level first. great video.
Yes, making sure the bike is level, straight up and down, should be done. I didn't use a level, but by eye it looked like it was straight up and down from the floor.
A
8' fluorescent bulbs though fragile are as straight as anything, I have been using the same pair for years.
Why didn't you make the frame level across the frame rails and then check the rear wheel vertical position and then adjust accordingly?
Seems like you just allowed the engine vertical position to be wherever it wanted to be which could be wildly out of alignment.
If it was "wildly out of alignment" it still handled better than before this alignment. Feel free to go about any way you wish.
If you replace the rubber mount, on rear transmission pivoted swingarms with billet isolators or urethane pivot replacement systems, moving the front motormount wont happen .
clever!
I only wish that there was a similar tutorial for 2009-2019 bikes with the new frame. Lt's of confusion of how to do alignment beyond rear axle, and even mixed messages there.
I haven't had to check it on my 2009 Road King as tire wear and handling seems to be ok. I do have to replace the front motor mounts, so I will see what that looks like for alignment adjustment when I get to that.
Goodday Mark.The issue i'm having with my 1998 HD FLT is that when i go to torque down the rear wheel,the belt pulley is touching the shock.I have checked the rear wheel alignment but using the tool to measure the distance from the pivot bolt to the rear axle bolt on each side of the wheel is the same.Still after this when i go to retorque the rear wheel,the belt pulley is still touching the the left shock.Any help would be appreciated.
Hello Derrick, I am not completely familiar with the rear axle setup, but your description makes me wonder if a shim or spacer is missing that would hold the swingarm further away from the pulley along with the shock. Let me see if I still have my service manual.
@@contact4mwy7 Ok.Thanks Mark.I appreciate You looking into this matter for me.
Yes, I have a copy of the shop manual. It shows an exploded diagram of the Alloy rear wheel for 1997-1998 FLH and FLT models, including where the spacers should go. I would need an email address to send it to you.
Sent!
Great job, Mark. Very good explanation!! My rear tire, on my 2005 fatboy is HORIZONTALY tilted to the left. ( if I put my fingers, up in the top of fender( by the struts) I have 1/4" on the left side, and 1/2"or more , on the right? ) the bike handles good. even when I ride with no hands..bike rides pretty straight, then starts favoring left side of road. wtf? After I figure out my problem, I will be doing your effective method, Thanks again Mark!
I am trying to picture where you are measuring the gaps and would like to stress that you make sure that part of the bike is in fact straight. I have also used an app on my phone that displays vertical degrees and placed the flat edge up and down alongside both brake rotors to verify a difference between the two.
Your Fatboy has a rigid mounted engine with internal counterbalancers. There's no adjustment like in this video on your Softail. Besides, center spacing between a stamped steel fender isn't an accurate way to gauge whether or not your wheels are aligned. Even if there was a way to measure it, your bike doesn't have an adjustment for it.
@@contact4mwy7 thank you very much for the response Mark sorry for the lateness
@@shortattentionspangarage1312 thank you very much Yes you are absolutely correct I do realize I don't have an adjustment for it sorry about the delay to the response
So I’m curious, my 1998 Ultra has a slight drift left tendency if I let go of the handle bars, doesn’t matter if I adjust how I’m seated. Do you think it’s rear.wheel tracking to the right out of alignment? Is that how your bike acted?
Mike, your 1998 Ultra and my 1997 Road King shared the same frame geometry as shown in this video, I'm quite sure. Is this also an EVO motor? Injected? Two things tipped me off that something wasn't right. The tires were wearing off the tread too quickly without much mileage, and the bike just felt 'squirrelly' underneath me, especially when it came to cracks in the road. It would tend to follow them and pull the bike to one side or the other. My wife could feel this too as a passenger. I originally thought that it was due to the tires or just the way these bikes handled (this was our first Harley). It couldn't hurt for you to make your own alignment rod to check the rear tire's alignment within the swingarm, and something of a straight edge (I used string) to check alignment of both wheels to each other (or your trusted bike mechanic). I can tell you that after I aligned mine the handling felt much better, more planted, and wasn't bothered by cracks in the road (which can also be a symptom of low tire pressure, I know), and we road it from Maine to New York and back, fully loaded, back roads and interstate, confidently. Really could feel the difference. Having the swingarm mounted to the transmission, which is rubber puck mounted into the frame, did not do these bikes much favors in handling, and misalignment makes it worse. Keep me posted.
@@contact4mwy7 Yes It is a fuel injected EVO motor. I checked the tires have around 1000 miles on them,and don't detect any undue wear. The old front tire was cupped badly when I replaced it. In addition to the noticeable left drift it also tends to follow road cracks if they are significant. In addition the rear wheel will feel squirrely at times in low speed turns as I lean into it. Not always though. It's very unnerving. I think it may have to do with acceleration deceleration. Acceleration seems to minimize or even eliminate the feel. I have not detected any trouble with the front, or any high speed wobble. But I don't drive fast. 75 occasionally. Truth of it is i'm afraid to take it up not knowing weather or not to trust it. I tried to set up your string alignment but my jack is in the way. I'll need to get a different jack. This is my first bagger, having owned a few sportsters, a BMW, and a Victory I would say this is a completely different animal as far as handling goes. Not sure what to think. I almost hate to take it to a dealer and just hand it to them hoping they know what their doing. No one it seems, has ever addressed the detailed alignment like you have. If I can't get the handling under control I'm thinking I'm getting rid of it for something else. One question. The dog bone that connects the tubes under the transmission looks like it has about a 3/8" arc in it. Isn't that supposed to be flat straight across? I wonder if that might be part of the problem?
@@mikez484 how many miles are on this bike? I am not aware of a Factory dog bone under the transmission. Aftermarket, yes, in fact I bought one thinking it would cure my problems, it added a noticeable amount of vibration into the frame. The only factory dog bones I am aware of are the one in front and the one under the gas tank. If someone added an aftermarket dog bone under the transmission, it could be a sign they were experiencing some weird handling too. Those have to be installed in a neutral position without side pull or push or that could move the transmission ( and rear tire) out of alignment. There is video of how to install these, I'm pretty sure. I replaced the rubber hockey puck looking things on each side of the transmission and found the originals to be a bit worn and loose. These pucks cushion vibration while also holding the transmission steady. See how they would effect handling if they are worn? There are videos on replacing them too. But to start, you need to verify your alignments side to side and vertically before looking elsewhere for the handling issue. Just so you know, I traded in for a 2009 and the updated frame change by Harley rides like a Cadillac, single or two-up.
Mark Young - Outside The Box it’s actually part of the stock frame. It’s probably 11 gage material with flanges bent on the edges. It has the shape of a “dog bone.” It supports the main tubes that run the length of the motor support part of the frame. There are two large holes in it that allows access to the transmission pan. I’d post a picture if I could. But it is part of the stock frame. It’s a ridged support. Bike has 57,000 miles.
@@mikez484 I think I can picture it now, Mike, a cross member that runs from side to side between the frame rails. There is no adjustment of this though, and if it supports the transmission at all (I don't remember if there were rubber pads between it and the transmission, but I doubt it) it should not affect alignment. I believe you can access the transmission drain plug here?
What if your running a 21” front wheel and a stock 130 on the rear?
If the widths are not the same, line up the string so it touches the front and rear of the tire the same by sliding the stand by the front wheel inwards until the string touches the front edge of the rear tire. Then measure from the stretched string to the sides of the front tire, equally front to rear as far as letters on the tire, etc., and see if it comes up the same measurements on both sides. If one side is closer to the string than the other, look into having it aligned. If your bike handling and tire wear is not an issue, leave it be.
Ok so I tried it and it worked everything is in line and it’s perfect BUT... I’m still getting a weave going straight on the highway about 70-75 mph AND everything has been replaced is there anything else that u could recommend me checking? My bike is a 1998 Road Glide FLTRI EFI
@@hectoralvarez9625 yes, here's what I did to my 1997 Road King. Before I realized just how far out of alignment my wheels were, I replaced the rear transmission (motor) mounts and added a brace that attaches to the transmission mount and transmission pan. This held the transmission more securely in place. Why is this important? The rear wheel swing arm is attached to the rear of the transmission on that frame, NOT the frame. The transmission/motor is rubber mounted. One in the front, two in the back. As these rubber mounts age they become weak and could be the source of your weave? Worth checking for rear wheel side-to-side movement?
It all too EZ to be snotty on the net.
So I would say I apologize for that remark but the context is correct.
That goofy stick you use (and HD recommends IT lol) is not going to give you any accuracy.
This is not for hand grenades and horseshoes!
I use round bar with a T and compression fittings both ends have points.
Its very stable.
One end is adjustable.
The points are long enough so as not to have to compensate for goofball
angles, just stick it straight into the axle and the swingarm detents.
1 -BUT, BUT first off- a proper alignment will start with front wheel being at 90 deg to earth as no compensation
can be made for triple tree angulation error.
Next match the rear wheel., Both should be straight up, rear matching the front.
2,-now use your stick but one that will dial in a much closer tolerance than that thing!
Get the axial swingarm number purrrfect.
Now, pull construction string -TIGHT! I mean banjo tight and tie it off to something in front of the bike that can be moved left/ right.
Keep in mind the rear end of the bike may need to be shifted left or right B4 the final touch.
Keep fussing with it , then and only then adj your front motor mount to pull the rear tire direction needed.
Its a fussy project because at this point the rear tire is probably not vertical again.
Notes -I use lasers and strings. a GOOD laser with a very small dot and magnet is pretty cheap today .
Hook one to front and rear disk.
When you are done the front and rear dots will be on top of each other,
ANYTHING LESS THEN THIS IS CAVE MAN
Cave Man worked for me!
I been doing this the same way as Mark Young for 20 years , FLT/C 1986 ultra glide classic , 1990 Sportster 1200 and my 1995 FLHR road king . No need for laser , if you have one that's fine , I use a coat hanger and a o-ring for my swingarm to axel , But I remove my fuel tank to get to the top engine mount . Mark put a lot into this video I have to say he did a fine Job Old School .
When I Replaced my Drive belt it was Worn on one side did not think much of it at the time but the new one is starting to do the same thing. I think my Engine and Trans are not aligned
1995dresser I would check the alignment of the rear wheel in the swingarm. As long as the bushings are good, the swingarm is mounted to the transmission, so the alignment of the drivebelt would be controlled by the rear axle. Find or make a metal rod like I used to verify the alignment of the rear axle. Have a shop help you out with it further. Make sense?
No handling issues or unusual wear issues. I've done all of my own maintenance on this bike so I am the only wrench turner on it. The bike currently has 130,000 miles on it, all of em mine. I'm just a bit of a fanatic when it comes to working on stuff I guess. i always feel that the last person who touched it wasnt as thorough (anal) as i am. I will take your advice and just leave it alone. Great product(s) and thanks for your professional advice and reply, cheers!!
I couldn't agree with you more. 130,000! Wow, that is impressive! Here's to many more miles!
Kenneth Wise , Im the same way . I do this every time I replace a drive belt. FLT you have to drop the swingarm remove the wheel and rear shock primary everything is out of line .
@@JCcanU what's up JC! I found it if you remove the right side isolation mount for the swingarm you can get the belt to slide in past the swing arm without having to completely remove it. Definitely a Time Saver
@@kennethwise7108 I never seen that done , I know the New FLT have a spacer you just pull the pivot pin past the spacer and your good . You know of a video on it ?
@@JCcanU no but I discovered it when I was trying to figure out a simpler way to do it. I'll describe it again for you. Inner & outer primary off.
Remove the nut, spacer and pillar block from the left side of the bike. Drive the swing arm axle towards the right side about 5 inches. Loosen up the right side pillar block and leave the two bolts engaged with 2 threads.Push your rear swingarm far enough to the right to facilitate getting clearance of the belt up into the frame (its tight but it will fit). I highly recommend an S&S heavy duty woven carbon fiber belt. The tensile strength is significantly higher than the junk HD Kevlar ones and can withstand anything you throw at it. Maybe you can find time to make a video on it. I probably could but I'm sure people would criticize me for something. People are assholes on UA-cam..
You can use a metal hanger and a zip tie for those who don't want to go to a store and find these items
If your tires are not the same width you have to account for this
Yes, you do.
I understand how to align the two wheeled harley. How do you align a trike ? That is what I am trying to do. I can tell you that so far it's been pure hell trying to get any answers from any of these so called self proclaimed Harley Mechanics. Can you shed some light on this ? Please . .
Steve, I wish I had the answer for you but I don't. I was surprised to read Trike as I hadn't even thought about one needing alignment. What are the symptoms?
Use the fluorescent light method; Strap two tubes to the front tire (8'), Ensure the front tire is straight (check at a center point on the frame) and measure the difference between the two tires at the rear. That should do it.
Hardly dangerous, Son.