Shimano Disc Brake Pads - When and How to Replace - Hydraulic Brakes Maintenance
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- How-to check and replace #Shimano disc #brake pads. Step-by-step procedure to check, evaluate, replace the pads and center the calipers on the rotors. And don't forget to bed in your new brakes!
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00:00 Intro
My channel is not sponsored. All opinions are my own, 100% honest. Some of the links in this description are affiliate links. I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase and it's no additional cost to you, I appreciate your support!
Thank you so much for the Short, insightful straight to the point Video!
Exactly what I needed! Yesterday, I was unsuccessful at replacing my brake pads and ended up putting the old ones back on. The use of tire levers to push the pistons back in is the step I was missing. Thanks so much!
And remember to bed in the new pads! 😊
3:50 tip with the tyre lever is gold, just saved me a pricey trip to the bike shop, thought I had to bleed them, never would've thought to push them back in 😊
Extremely clear explanations with clear camera work. Thanks!
Why don't people say out loud, "For Hydraulic Brakes" DON'T PUSH THE BRAKE LEVER IN!!! When the wheel is off...Everbody screws that one up.😄
Thank you. Your tutorial made the process of changing my first set of disc brake pads on a bike almost painless. Previously I have only changed rim brake pads - countless countless times over many years. I've even tried my own recipe for rim coating to eliminate rim wear because I was tired of replacing otherwise perfectly good wheels or rebuilding wheels with new rims.
Having disc brakes now is a revelation and I'll not go back. My only misgivings are two: 1) What's it like to change the pads? Answer:Easy
2) What's it like to bleed the system(do things with that hydraulic oily stuff)? Answer: Dunno yet but I want to learn!
Cheers.
4:51 there's an actual procedure for centering the rotor between the brake pads. With the brake pads in, loosen the lateral adjustment screws, tightly squeeze the brake lever, then tighten the lateral adjustment screws while holding the lever. Let go of the lever and they should be centered.
I was talking about the hydraulic. Sticky pistons are another story, but the method I mentioned is a good first step.
@@batbawls This method only works correctly if you have perfectly straight rotor, perfectly clean caliper (no dust inside), perfectly evenly moving pistons (they don't have to be sticky or malfunctioning to move unevenly!) and brand new pads (not worn at all). Perfect conditions for mentioning this method in the brakes installation manual but it does not transfer well to the brakes that were already used for some time and you only want to replace the worn pads or need to readjust the caliper after reinstalling the quick-relase wheel. If any of these factors is not met, the caliper will not center correctly and you will have pads wear at an angle. Recentering with such pads will always position your caliper at an angle again. So this is not a good method. I was using it and now I have one pad worn to 0.5mm at the bottom and 1.2mm at the top while the other pad worn to 1.2 at the bottom and 1.7 at the top... Method shown in the video is more precise and you should definitely consider it if you have a caliper that allows inserting the pads from the top. Unfortunately it is much much more difficult for calipers that only give access to the pads from the bottom (like Shimano Alivio and such) and almost impossible when combining such calipers with quick-release wheel, so manual centering with your hands while the wheel slowly rotates is you next best option, although dangerous to the fingers and not very precise too.
Taking time to explain in detail. You are very helpful. You’ve earned. Another subscriber here. Thank you.
I was skiping this video for weeks.... what new thing I can learn about changing brakes pads?... you did it again!... thanks a cheers from Uruguay
Turns out I've watched this twice now, brilliant every time :) Thanks
A very straightforward helpful guide - just what I needed to replace my well-worn disc brake pads :) Thanks
Very well done, straightforward while covering all the important points. Thanks for taking the time!
Thank you for this! I cleaned my pads since they were noisy (but new) and I was confused why they wouldn't fit with the rotor anymore. Thanks to this video all I had to do was to reset the pistons.
finally after many watched videos this one very easy and well explained.
Here's one that is VERY clear and covers virtually all types of disc pads in 8 minutes. ua-cam.com/video/Xqw0SaZl-jo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ParkTool
Just used your video to check my pads (barely anything at all left!). Subsequently ordered new ones. Very useful thanks!
Watched so many tutorials, but yours gave me the clue.
Thanks a lot
Very helpful video. All I needed to know and no fluff.
Thank you so much for a great, informative video. You have the heart of a teacher. Please keep sharing your knowledge. Thanks again!
Looking from the top, the pads looked fine. But I was down to bare metal at the bottom, when I realized that was not best indicator.... Good vid!
Thank oyu.. Very informative and straightforward.. I am about to have a new bike with this kind of braking system and needed to know.. Have a Blessed day.
Enjoy your new bike!
Thanks for such a helpful and concise video. Much appreciated, now to give it a go.
Thank you so much for the very explanatory video!
Thanks. Very clearly explained. I shall now go and replace my first disc pads; wish me luck.
this helped, i recently went from v breaks to hydros, and i didn’t know how to change the pads, they work perfectly fine but i wanted to know just in case
Thanks man! Saved me a ride to the mechanic hehe.
Great and simple video! Thanks
thanks for showing how to use the tyre spoons to push back the calipers. I was worried about using any old tool to force them apart as I remember reading somewhere that the pistons may get damaged if they are forced apart unskilfully.
Your clip is called a cotterpin fyi. Thanks for the video First time changing brakes. Asomtom Q7 mountain ebike with hydraulic brakes
You’re welcome
Also useful info for folks with Tektro m280 (low end stuff) brakes. Since they use the split pin instead of a bolt. [And none of the tektro how-to videos on youtube seem to use such a model as an exemplar]
Good job!
2 years later and still the best video. I am a rookie in MTB. What do I hear at my tire when I have biked in the mud? Do you know if this are my brakes?
@@LoveMTB yes, thank you!
Glad I subscribed to You, all your videos are on point with very clear demonstration. Definitely worth watching and should have more subscribers.
Awesome quick video with very detailed and specific descriptions! Made me feel like a pro headed to do this!
I have made your UA-cam channel my go to site for questions I have working on my mountain bike. You do a great job so Thanks!
It's of course much easier to do something when you have seen it done a couple of times and so it is in this case also. Thanks for "helping" me.
Very good well filmed. video, well done squire.
I'm using them worn and they work better than new (of course they wake the neighborhood dogs when I'm descending the hills). Will never change them again. This is modern cycling.
Great clear explanation what to do step by step and what I need... Actually, All I need to know! Thank you for this video, very helpful. :)
Thank you. Terrific video but I am unclear on how L-R go. The spring mechanism and pads look identical except for a small hole on one side of spring. Plus neither pad has a front or rear directional marking indicator. Thanks again.
L/R is only relevant for the finned pads. Otherwise spring doesn’t matter
Thank you so much for great video and great advice! 👏🏼👏🏼
Perfect video very helpful - thanks from Scotland
Really nice instructions to know how to change the pads yourself👍One thing that happened with me is i exchanged the rear brake pads but the brake lever needs to be presser 2 or 3 times until i have enough brake feeling. That is normal? Thank you!
thank you, this is how I do i t, but I look up to clarify and I saw another guy take everything apart. But that seems to be twice as much work, and possibly add more error. I like the alcohol cleaning idea.
I didn't realise the pads with fins could be interchanged with the standard ones - that's useful to know
I don't like the idea of adding the lube to the brake retention bolt right at the end. So close to the pads and disc at that point - I think I would choose to leave that set of threads alone. Otherwise, great video! I never thought about that centerline mark on the armature.
thank you so much, this is great help for us beginners
Im changing my pads soon. Thanks a lot
My compliments for this cool video.
The disk cleaning must be done only when we replace the brake pads ?
I do it as part of my bike drivetrain cleaning just in case any degreaser got on them.
The tire lever was the missing ingredient - thank you!
Good instructions. Thank you.
I always thought it made more sense to centre the calliper by loosening it, pulling the brake on and then tightening it with the brake held on - is that not the right way any more?
That would be step 2 Step 1 do it like you see here, force both pistons to come out equally. Then loosen, pull lever and tighten alternating bolts, then release. Should be perfect!
Thank you for tutorial.
Very Good VIDEO Thank you!
I have shimano deore BR-6100 do you know what type of brake pads I need for it?
Nice video, my onlt comment is the lining up of the caliper along the centre line, that doesnt compensate for the fact the pistons may move at different speeds when applied for some reason and you could end up with more pressure from one pad than another, the alignment should be loosened caliper, squeeze brake then check how aligned that caliper centre line is as it will also give some idea on whether you have a sticky piston. just tuppence worth.
Thank you sir was very helpful I say I need to replace mine I will do it tomorrow sunday
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Brilliant Thank You 😎😎
This works in hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes as well, correct? You can remove the wheel with no threat of the pistons closing in as long as you don’t hit the brake lever?
Some great tips. Thanks.
How thick were your old pads? Just for the reference.
thanks a lot man it's really help me
Does it do the same with mechanical disc brakes when you replace the pads
@5:25 are you _sure_ you need to put grease on the 3mm bolt? I'd think (and see) that you need to put blue loc-tite, someone (or Tektro) put that at the end of my bolt
I do, others don’t, I wouldn’t put Loctite on it though. You have the circlip for that.
@@LoveMTB OK ... I put a little grease in the middle (possibly due to this vid) and left the blue loc-tite at the thread near the head of the bolt. No, Tektro Auriga do not have a "cir"clip, they are threaded 3mm bolt . Anyways
Nice to the point. Sounds v like all Shimano disc brakes take the same shape pads? Is that so?
@@LoveMTB got it thanks.
can I put that kind of brake pads (the one that covers the top) into my non series shimano brakes?
it's my first time changing the disk pads on my mountain bike, where can i find the model number of the pads !
Can I use pads with a few rides on them with new rotors?
Found this video really useful! But just wondering how to know which series is your brake pads? thanks heaps!
Thanks for the vid, some good tips. One point though that's probably worth making an annotation for is that at 1.31min when you are checking the pad wear, you're incorrectly measuring both the pad and the plate it's held onto (hence why you're getting 4mm). If you look at the manual it shows pad thickness from new is usually 2mm. If someone followed this vid when measuring, they could think their pad has say 2.2mm (including the 2mm backing) when in fact their pad will be .02mm.
Great video.
Did mine tonight and when I apply the brake there is slight movement with the finned portion of the pad.
Is this normal?
Everything seems to be working fine but seems odd that there’s any movement.
On my third set and all have the same issue with humidity. Endless squeek and lack of ...no..performance on a dangerous level.
Have to bake them (literally oven for 25mins at about 400) before I use them for anything serious. Not alone. It's some issue with the compound. Going third party from here on in as I don't like faceplanting trees.
That sound is from that spring thing that keeps brake pads apart. At first that is the one that touches the disk, so it's ok, don't have to dispair or to check many times.
When you start hearing that, the pad is 0.5mm thik and you need to replace it as soon as possible.
Great video! I have shimano xt brakes and find they have a lot of take up and under hard braking i am nearly touching the bars. Is this a case to consider rebleeding? The brake pads have 25 hrs ride time.
Another very helpful video - I always come back to your channel when I need some help. I find your tech videos even better from those from Park Tool :)
I have a question though - do you lubricate the pistons with mineral oil before putting in a new set of pads?
Shimano doesn't say to do this in their manual; but some on forums say if you don't lubricate the pistons, they will stick and will not retract easily. Do you agree with this?
Thanks again!
@@LoveMTB Thanks!!
Nicely done - one question - whenever I've replaced brake pads on a car, I've always applied a very thin smear of Coppaslip to the back plates. This to stop brake squeal. But I never find this reference for bike brakes. Any idea why?
Great video. Thanks!
great video as always. I got a question about cleaning the pistons, pistons from rear break are sort of stucked coz they do not go back the whole way when press the break. what do you recommend i can use to clean them.
Thank You very much! .
The clarity of the process is good, but I wonder whether a mention should be made about pushing the pistons in to make room for the new pads. I've followed steps in the video a few times without a problem, but recently developed a lever (GRX 810) that was pulling all the way to the bar to engage the brake. LBS had a look, and the bladder in the lever is broken (which requires a whole lever replacement). They speculated it could have been from hamfisting the brakes, but I'm pretty easy on them. I suspect it happened from pushing the pistons back too quickly and with too much force when replacing pads, but it's just a guess. Anyway, something to be careful about.
It sounds more likely that somehow, air has been introduced into the system. If the reservoir at the lever was broken in some way you would have fluid leaking.
Pretty informative Video!
hi do you know what is the right brake pads for x-spark hydraulic brakes?
nice video mate, thanks! can you get better pads for those brakes?
Thanks, will be of great help with my new synapse carbon disc, is it best to stick with resin or go for the metal - thanks
do you see an upgradge with ice tech pads?
good video!!!!
this is really helpful
Thank you for the video, it helped me with this service. However, I noticed a slight error when you were measuring. You reference a manual which discusses changing the brake pad when its less than 2mm. In the book you can see that this measurement is for the actual brake pad without the metal backing. In the video you measured both the ceramic pad material and the backing which gives you a falsely increased number. If you measure both the pad and the backing material you have to subtract about 1.74mm (this is how thick the backing was for my pads). Again thanks for producing this video but I wanted to clarify so others don't run into braking issues if they are measuring incorrectly.
The way he did it was correct imo - the guide says 2mm as new and 0.5mm of pad material when worn = 1.5mm of wear. Measuring the total pad thickness and observing 1.5mm of pad wear later seems like the correct thing to do, as you can't actually measure the metal thickness below the friction material
I just noticed my safety clip is missing on my front brakes? Is this something I can buy separately?
About how often is it necessary to bleed hydraulic brakes?
Very useful. Thanks.
So useful, thanks!
Can one reuse the fins or it's a one time thing? and each time you gotta replace it?
thank you for sharing your knowledge
What do you do if they are fully on the rotor brand new pad but it has little stopping power
Any idea how often you're supposed to replace your shifter/ derailleur cable??
Thank you for a nice video! I change my brake pads by my own today, I pushed the pistons in as far as I could but it’s very little room for the rotor to fit. The brake pads is on the rotor. I looked at shimanos website so I order the correct brake pads and it’s the correct rotor. Is it only to push the pistons even more? Or is it anything else I missed?
Same here, new pads still quite tight. Did you find a resolution?
Hello ,I am new to bicycle fixings and I need help regarding choosing right pads. How can I know what type of breaking pads my bicycle uses?
is there any way that I can identify them? some model number?
thanks
@@LoveMTB thanks i found it 🙂
Is it ok to put resin pad and metal pad on one piston? It will cause overheat?
quite informative, tysm
How much were you using those brakes till you had to change them?
May i ask u i have those M135 shimano hydraulic brake set ca i install it with pads with cooling fins?
how do you take the disc pads out?
Good video dude!
The pads in my mechanical disc brakes look thick enough, however there is a shiny black coating on it, I can see shiny streaks of copper colored material, is this a good time to replace them??, or do I sand them down a bit? The braking action is totally ineffective, I can easily push the bike with the brakes pressed tightly.
@@LoveMTB Thanks for the tip. I sanded the pads, but still not good. I have ordered some new pads. I think I will try to sand the discs now. Any idea what grit sandpaper I should use??