CLOUDBREAK WITH JAMIE OBRIEN (I nearly drowned)
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- Опубліковано 3 бер 2023
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Whilst on a private coaching week in Fiji we somehow got lucky enough to receive a 20 second period mega swell at the world famous Cloudbreak. Surfing out there was super fun... until the sets caught us off guard.
Regardless of this very humbling experience it was cool to meet Jamie (and see him get some crazy ones) and a bunch of other pro surfers, and to spend the week exploring this beautiful island country.
The Surfer's Roadmap, my online surfing university designed to take you on the pathway to better surfing - thesurfersroadmap.com/
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So fun surfing with you buddy! Keep up the great work ❤
Oh ya and you're videos have to much talking more surfing less talk and more surf
Nice one Jamie, appreciate that you recognised Kale, that’s immense as we all negotiate life and the surf, I’m glad you’re not too big to care or too proud that’s refreshing in this surf dog eat dog env… bless
Sooooo siiiick!!
jamie o'beans
PSYCHED
Just for anyone reading - myself and two mates surfed Cloudbreak for a few hours in early Jan (quiet season). After enjoying 2-3 foot fun waves within 10 minutes the currents completely shifted and we were suddenly dealing with 4-6ft regular sets straight onto coral.
I think Kale shows alot of humility in this video describing getting thrown over the reef and needing some assistance - it can happen to the best of us and shows the importance of:
1. Not surfing alone particularly away from your home break
2. Consistent conditioning
3. Admitting when you need to call if a day
Three things that I wish I knew earlier in my surf journey
Epic video KB
🙏🏽 wise words brother
This is the true sign of a champion and a good person to be vulnerable like this on social media and talk about your fears and what you perceive as a failure or shortcoming, when in reality you just got caught inside on a bomb set. Keep going mate you’re an inspiration.
I think many of us needed that video. As a landlocked (Germany, only get to surf about a month per year) surfer I often find myself having those exact thoughts but it somehow helps to know that even someone like you does (obviously on another level).
It's actually insanely inspiring that you only really got into surfing with 16 or even older. That just shows how committed to learning you are and were and definitely means you really dont have to be disappointed of not matching someone like JOBs confidence in these conditions haha
Being real... Being humble...
Could not ask anymore than that, from anybody.
That's a heavy wave, with heavy consequences!!!
Hope your camera guy heals up quickly. 💪❤️🩹🙏
I went out to Cloud break once, it was 6 to 9 feet and the bigger sets were 10 to 12 feet.
I was out of my depth, I had a go, went over the falls twice and that was enough for me.
To be continued next time.
You are a brave man , keep up your great work.
Cheers
Relax dude, it’s all good. Cloudbreak is like the heaviest wave on earth I hear. I hear it’s gnarlier than Teahupoo. Jamie grew up in front of Pipe. Either move to West Oz for a season or two or move to North Shore Oahu for a season or two. I can’t speak to Oz, but I surfed a bit on the North Shore and it’s about as powerful as it comes. If you can get comfortable there at 5’ it’s like 15’ anywhere else, it just has that much more water. But I have buddies who have told me, and I’ve heard pros say, CloudBreak is as gnarly gnar as they come. The waves you got out there were good. You surfed well. I’d be stoked. I live in West Hawaii which is like medium heavy, it’s not North Shore, but it’s a lot stronger than South Shore, and 2’ over head is plenty big to have fun. Getting slammed onto lava (cause this island is new still) isn’t fun. Feeling like you’re gonna drown isn’t fun. Hold downs here are decent, so I wear a spring every time I surf. You pop up 10 seconds faster it feels like. If you notice JOB, he’s always in a suit, ALWAYS!! No matter what. Oahu isn’t even cold. And he uses float suits for big days, every time! I think you did fine mate. You didn’t put yourself into the conversation in a way that has you competing with WSL guys. Nothing to be embarrassed about, Kelly ain’t gonna go about teaching people to surf. None of those guys are. You have a skill, and you’ve thought about it enough to share it with others. Don’t feel guilty about it, at all.
Job does lessons 😅
@@jimihendrixx11 small kine.
Kale, I go thru the exact mental game myself. My mentor always says there’s no joy in comparisons. You are you for a reason, keep being real!
dude, this is your best video ever i think. The music, the humility and reflection, the beauty, the surfing, the dreaming and goal setting...i loved it. i might just hit play on it again. Peace
Surfing with JOB sounds super intimidating. The wave looks insane and scary, especially backside. Don’t forget pros train like maniacs and have professional trainers helping them build + maintain top physical condition. Guys like JOB have not only surfed crazy waves since forever but also trained for decades on land + gym. These top pros are just superhuman basically. I mean the guy surfs big pipe on a foamie lol
Don’t sweat it to hard bro, cloudbreak is next level when it comes to raw open ocean breaks. I’ve been rolled there many a time and I’ve spent a lot of time in indo and all around the pacific. Having the right boards for that type of wave definitely helps tho. Keep it up bro, love the footage
This is a very powerful message about openness and humility. You didn't have to show us this experience. Glad the Fiji boys were aware and picked you both up! You have an important niche and very rare to be able to do what you do. Keep up the great content and teachings!
Great to see you opening up Kale. It’s always humbling as a surfer to place yourself in uncomfortable conditions/ situations. It Happened to me at URBNSURF in the advanced barreling setting the first time I tried it. I was too arrogant and beat myself up harshly for not doing well, but I learned from it, and the next session over a year later, I only kooked the first tube and one wave earlier. Always gotta be open to learning it taught me.
Stoked about the honesty man.
Self realization can be tough.
I feel the same way all the time.
I’ve met JOB a few times here is California and in Hawaii.
He’s nutz and makes everything look easy.
He humbles other pros with how he handles critical situations.
Keep up the good work and amazing content. You’ll get there. Stay humble. Stay blessed.
The videography is unmatched! Really enjoyed it. You're reflection and guidance you share and your continual chase to progress is what is inspiring me to work on my surfing as well. Just bought a smooth star and soaking in all your vids. Thanks Kale!
This looks very similar to an experience I had in the Maldives. During that trip, the swell reached a point that was extremely stressful given the unexpected power.
I started my surfing journey very similar to Kale and when the situation arises when it’s heavy, it’s a learning experience but also psychologically challenging when the expectation of your skill level doesn’t match the challenge of nature’s power. You get humbled in the most profound way. Thanks for sharing, love seeing that pov footage.
The mind is a big player in whatever we do. I worked my way into design without all the credentials and got to work with the best and brightest (and younger) in the company. I always felt like they were assessing my work but finally realized they really were only focused on getting the job done - a real turning point. I'm glad JOB was as gracious as I perceive him to be in his videos. He is definitely one of the masters of the late takeoffs! Those "reef bites" looked gnarly!
Great video (thank you). Love the honesty, the contrasts, the dreamy yet real-life portrayal of the trip.
Love how genuine you are mate! The truth is we all feel like that, and your thinking you shared about it makes perfect sense.
Remember you said it yourself in one of your earlier videos, you are only out of your comfort zone with wave size when you just haven't got used to that size yet. It took me many years to get used to bigger and bigger waves. In fact as you take that journey you could probably bring others in your trail, increasing the scope of your training - I think that'd work very well, I sure could have used it.
Good luck and many happy returns! :)
Major props to you for getting out there and showing us the real side. The rest of us are fortunate enough to not have to put our humbling moments on the internet. I just wanted to add that these moments of smokage don't need to be moments of reflection and self-doubt necessarily. All the best get caught inside, and washed on the reef, paying taxes to the reef gods. As much as any other skill in surfing - reading waves, holding arcing turns, being kind in the lineup, etc. - taming mental demons is an intentional, learned, practiced skill to be honed. I don't think of you as a "professional surfer" (ie: How Surfers get Paid), but rather a "surf professional", and that's plenty good enough. Thanks for your work 🤙
Such a humble and honest sharing. Must take massive courage getting out amongst something like that!!
The range of ability in surfing, from your beginning students to Kai Lenny, is so unfathomably vast that it is pointless to compare yourself to anyone but who you'd like to become. I'm sure there are top big wave guys who look at Kai (and many others) and think, "Good God, I'm a total pussy and I suck." My suggestion to myself is draw inspiration from others, marvel at and celebrate their amazingness, and always try to improve at least 1% every time I go out. Play the long game and avoid getting seriously injured. And have fun. What's the point if it's not fun.
Honestly, I think this is good for you. You are much more relatable to most of us. I never stay home when the surf gets big here in Florida. 99% of us have those same thoughts when we go out surrounded by pros and experts. 99% of the guys that actually paddle out that is. Many stay home or watch and take pictures.
I definitely get that performance anxiety that you mentioned. I broke my back 10 years ago, and due to complications from that, I can only SUP surf. On big days I’m the only SUP surfer out there. Everyone truly is watching me. I only started surfing 2 years ago, and have just a fraction of the experience that everyone else has on those big days. I feel like everyone is judging me, but when I get to the beach and walk past the spectators, they always have kind words, telling me that I was “ripping out there” or sometimes just amazed at the things I can do on a SUP.
I think most everyone knows that surfing is very very hard, and in general the people that you are worried about performing in front of, most likely have a great deal of respect for you.
I’ve learned a ton from you over the last 2 years. I went from riding white water to doing cutbacks and floaters, and riding the biggest hurricane waves that Mother Nature sends us in Florida. Thank you!
Love your humility, vulnerability and will! Very inspiring. I’m just getting back out there after about a decade of not, after 2 shoulder reconstructions. Your videos are inspiring the comeback 🙏🏼
The creativity and passion you continue to show through your videos is absolutely inspiring. I’m a big fan and the fandom continues to grow! Thank you and great video!
Thank you so much 😀
Exactly with you on the rainy tropics mate.
I used to live in Bali and spend a lot of time in Ubud- one of the more rural countryside areas. It always rains there, and it is so so relaxing and peaceful in the jungle when it rains.
Unbelievably fortunate to have lived there.
Awesome surfing too! Thank God you’re okay 🤙
I love how honest you are, and your videos are an inspiration. It just goes to show that even at your skill level, you can still feel outclassed like I feel most surf sessions! 😂
Keep pushing your limits, and I look forward to following every step! 🤙
Absolutely insane Kale keep up you awesome videos and you have inspired me and so many other people and I really appreciate that and meeting J.O.B out there, that’s insane!!!
After surfing over 50 years I still get intimidated when a large (for us) swell appears. Have used a technique to 'help' overcome these fears. Prior to going to sleep visualize yourself paddling out picking the gaps and doing solid duck dives. Imagine yourself out the back taking off on the sets without fear (opposite is love). Breathe and relax. Imagine the paddle back out as a gym workout and that you can do it. Breathe and relax.
Needless to say large Cloudbreak is for advanced surfing only and you can still get flogged to within an inch of your life no matter what precautions one takes. Fear of shallow coral reefs and associated injuries is as challenging a prospect to deal with for nearly every surfer except locals and Hawaiians and don't kid yourself that sometimes they're not intimidated. Good luck and stay as safe as possible when slightly out of your comfort zone. Great video and we feel your pain when the lime juice hits the coral cuts.
Nice comment
You are brave for just paddling out there. JOB makes us all PSYCHED
Stay jazzed
Kale great episode and thanks for sharing how you felt so openly. I can relate to, so is great to know that I am not alone
Beautiful video. And amazing to hear you internalize your mistakes & motivate yourself to continue to improve.
Kale your humbleness is your greatest asset. You charge harder than 99% of the population. As a member of that 99%, I look up to you and aspire to achieve your level of ability. There will always be someone who is better than us. The key is allowing them to motivate us and push us to the edge of our ability whilst also listening to our intuition. It’s a knife’s edge that we walk in those situations.
I moved from the east coast of the US to the pacific coast of Nicaragua last year and it has been both exhilarating and humbling for me. My surfing has improved more in a year than in the decade prior and my spidey sense has grown alongside my surfing. Your honesty and humbleness has been helpful for me in pushing my boundaries without putting myself in too dangerous of a situation.
Seeing someone of your ability know when they are a little out of their depth helps the rest of us to make better decisions. Your humility and willingness to be vulnerable may one day save one of your subscriber’s lives. Seeing those we look up to know when “not to go” is as important as seeing them do something that blows our mind.
Thanks Kale!
Love your open reflection on how you felt post-surf. It's very refreshing to hear.
That's super intense... Thanks so much for sharing that Kale!! And especially being vulnerable about how you feel paddling out with other pro surfers... Puts it into perspective when I feel a little uncertain paddling out to 3footers at Dee Why 😂
Thanks for your honesty. I’ve come to surfing later in life and often the same feeling of embarrassment and lack come to me in a more serious line up. The other day a rare swell popped up and I took a mean drop into a big sweeping right. Later on the guys out asked if they could film me, this wasn’t my finest surf but if you keep pushing, keep assessing and humbly accepting weakness but not accepting defeat, I believe you get better…
Sick video my man. Regardless of the outcome you put yourself out there with the best and had a once in a lifetime experience. Keep it up🙌🏽
JOB knows how to read the ocean better than most. You did great mate
Love the honesty and humbleness you bring to your channel. Great stuff!!
I appreciate that!
The ocean is one of the most humbling teachers there is. As soon as you think you have it dialed it will kick your ass. We see the pros riding perfect waves its so easy to think …yeah that looks pretty doable. Then if you are lucky enough to get to some of these places you realise, holy crap! these waves are next level intense 😱 I really liked your take on it dude, I used to get totally bummed when I got my ass handed to me …and that was a lot! 😂
Congrats and Thankyou for offering such a positive message mate.
Good on you Kale. Nice to hear that even a surfer with your experience has anxieties, interesting to understand that these exist across all surfers, of all abilities, your tolerance just gets greater with experience and exposure. Recently Heard JJF talking about his anxieties and nervousness (understandably) ahead of this years Eddie.
Amazing, way to go for pushing yourself! An inspiration to us all
Love your vlogs man, what an experience this was !
awesome vid bro, i started surfing & maing surf content at 33 in michigan,,, ive put in countless hours hunting the best surf in the great lakes and in doing so ive had to surf with people who were better than me, i totally understand your feelings of " embarassment " & also the lack of training in environments that provide high level waves~ obviously youre on another level with pros but the emotions r the same... watching your vids and tutorials has helped me insane amounts , the waves in the great lakes r weird and not built the same as ocean waves but ive proven with the time and effort u can surf almost daily out here and get at the very least fun punchy waves.... thanks again for the knowledge and content!!!
Impressed with your honesty...we can all relate to your words..very particular to Surfing..that non surfers are clueless to. Surfing is deep. Many directional challenges
Superb quality video! I can't wait to visit Fiji one day
Super beautiful footage, Kale.
Id be super scared of that shallow reef and wave size.
I love your mindset and takeaways.
Thanks Kale!
When is the next Morocco trip?
Great vid! Inspires me to keep pushing my surfing for those barrels and bigger waves too, even at 44 years old.
Kale I watched JOB surf 10-12ft Padang Padang in 2006, he was taking off switch foot, imagine, he takes off goofy and comes out regular, 10-12 foot low tide Padang...Thats the stuff you see first hand and see how other pros and locals are surfing it and then you realise how much more comfortable he is in really hazardous conditions, some of the other pros could have done what he was doing but they probably didnt feel comfortable doing it...he just blows minds...like John John...any time any place.
Comparision is the thief of all joy. The ego is not your amigo, surfing teaches us that everytime we go out, theres always someone surfing better than us, always someone on the bombs time and time again. We just got to be grateful for the times we get to be in the water, one day it will be just memories, make sure they are good, happy ones.
I go through the exact same thing when around a busy line up, or surfers that seem higher up the food chain....By myself i surf anything and normally flow through the session,, im working on it , its a tough one it seems for many of us. Thanks for all the great films.
I appreciate your humanity and humility. I hope I can surf half as well as you some day!
Just a tough for the video maker, congrat for the b-roll and your infinite commitment !! and of course nice video like every time. ( You're an inspiration for a classic dance french channel ). Tks!
I was lucky enough to get to Fiji back in the late 90s. After Endless Summer 2 me and my boys started saving and 4 of us went and it was incredible. The surf was crazy, the fishing was even more crazy and it was a trip I'll never forget. There were so many dudes that I had posters of in the line up and most were really cool and they thought we were insane considering that we are from Philly and mainly surf NJ which isn't exactly world class 😂😆😂
This was a great video with a really interesting phycological question and answer. Performance expectation or any expectation can be a great hurdle or bump to over come. I'm still and will always be a grom in the world of surf but as a very great surfer told me the journey is only with yourself. Keep up the journey and keep up the good work. And just a friendly reminder that dude you're a frecking legend.
🙏🏽
This is your best video so far. Feeling very inspired to get out of my comfort zone.😃
Such a good video! Seeing JOB sending it in the flesh would be intimidating, guy makes huge waves look tiny and people forget
Late comment but what an amazing video kale wow and the pov and music made it even better I also have a similar problem when comparing myself to others except I’m 17 and started when I was 13 but also stopped for 2 years so hope to get really good too soon:)
I was actually wondering when you both would somewhat officially collaborate since you too are so similar but so different, refreshing to watch both of your channels to get inspired - thanks man 🙏🏻
That would be cool!
Loved your honest and humility. Inspiring ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Don’t put too much pressure on yourself dude. I have learnt majority of my surfing from your videos, your doing plenty right ❤
Absolutely stunning videography. Lots of love to your cameraman
Great video and a super relatable story. I surfed the Coral Coast last January and got super fun waves first part of the week. We heard Frigates was gonna be good and headed out to find 6-8ft barrels with a strong rip. I had a similar experience to yours and dealt with the same self talk afterward as well. Why didn’t I surf better than I did, etc. I still think about that day, and try to take it easy on myself about it for sure. Definitely wanna get back there and have another go. Curious where you stayed on this trip? The accommodations look plush! Love your content and inspired by your chosen professional path! Cheers
Well, this video has made me understand the difference you can hardly tell as a plain surfer, between an amazing surfer and coach (Kale) and the people that are the top surfers of the world (Jaime). As they both make it look easy, I have been able to realize the difference here, I'm shocked! Amazing the level it requires to surf there on the bigger ones. Nothing to be ashamed of. Only surfers can understand this
Nice open share kale. I can relate!
Heavy barrels are so much different from thin-lipped "fun" barrels. The extra push and speed in the wave makes if more about finesse and quickness than you would think, on top of needing to be in the best shape of your life. Now managing speed, which we hardly ever deal with because of the type of wave we know from beach breaks, suddenly makes a lot more sense on reefs in Indo that go square really quick. It's humbling because you don't get as many reps as you would like because everyone else is on it going deeper and later. The motor skill mechanics of pig-dogging feel weird. And commitment is at least 80% of the success rate which means that when it works it goes beyond mechanical ability and into the fluidity of instinct.
Hats off! Great video!
HUGE props to the girl you were teaching at the beginning of the video. That wave was MASSIVE!
Literally a double whammy love watching both of them
Living your best life dude. You should be proud 🤙
JOB's grab drops into monsta barrels are just amazing.
Great video. I would love to see you surfing North Shore waves with those pro hawaiian surfers. I’m sure you would do it great 💪🏻💪🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Exactly the same thing happened to me at Cloudbreak, but Shane Dorian was out charging. After getting swept over the reef by a 10 foot sneaker set I had to paddle back the 500 meters smoked. Swell jacked from 4 to 8 feet within 2 hours.
Amazing visuals and amazing content as always 🤙🏽
Thank you 🙌
Hey bro Cloud break is heavy and easy to be humbled. Great vid mate.
Music selection and Edits Are mixed perfectly ⛱️🔥⛱️
Summer vibes Incoming..I return to The Video 📸 To once again enjoy the edits and Vibes
Dude you handled yourself and youre self aware. Thats all you need. Like you always say kelly slater grew up in florida, but hes still kelly. At the end of the day you are an awesome surfer and yes, you can push yourself further, but PLEASE do so safely.
I find surfing little 1-3ft waves over reef is more dangerous than 6-8ft, it’s normally fear and hesitation that get you hurt. If/when you do fall, try fall into the wave not out in front and don’t thrash your limbs about, relax the body. But yeah, little you can do when you’re caught inside by a rouge set😂
Thanks for the video!
Shoutout to Kyle, this footage is insane, hope you’re on the mend 😂
This is really well done. I love your humility and honesty. And you're a fantastic surfer!! An inspiration for all of us. The filmmaking is beautiful, too. Side note: Would you mind telling me what sunhat and sunscreen do you use?
Coming soon on the sunscreen and hat!!
Thank you!!!
Had that wave back in the early 80s. Sailing around looking for untouched breaks, found a couple, still not advertised, too old for it now.
epic session bro
Some guy in Raglan has a level 1 coaching certificate course you should look into, it could take your surfing to the next level Kale
Don’t take those waves just to prove something, take them because you are genuinely ready. Note too that everybody has their limits-if those waves are beyond you, there is no shame in that. Many long-time surfers won’t ride waves that you have ridden, Jamie O’Brien won’t ride some of the waves that Laird Hamilton has ridden-everybody maxes out somewhere; don’t let pride cost you your life. 🙏❤️✝️
Really well said. JOB is an exceptional talent. Be impressed not embarrassed. You're an expert surfer and expert coach, that's enough. 👍
I know the feeling. First session there was on a boat full of young guys who had been surfing it all week. 4-6 foot consistent sets. Got a few but then a big wide set washed me right through and under the old competition tower. Nothing like full star fishing it over the reef, hoping you still got fins and taking a few sets on the head. Character building and humbling 😅
Certainly
Felipe Toledo is a world champ and he’s know for blowing it in challenging conditions. I wouldn’t worry about it.
do good fins really matter for an intermediate surfer and if they do which futures fins would you recommend? thanks theo
Hey i just have a question:
Whats the easiest way to get out the back on a mid length foam board?
Hi surf coach. I've followed you for a while, now I live in Central America surfing good waves pretty much every day. I hear you about getting off turns and into barrels. There's many good point breaks around where I live but I'm only interested in the ones that barrel. It's a different game waiting for those long period sets and inevitably pooping yourself when the horizon gets super large all of a sudden and you're out of position.
As with any other endeavor, there's a wide range of abilities. The expert surfers today are insanely phenomenal. But they surf extremely challenging waves very often and make it seem effortless ... which creates an illusion. You only get comfortable in heavy waves by surfing heavy waves. And even then, there are many who will never get comfortable - myself included.
Had me psyched from the pool scene
😂
Kale this content was incredible film making, music! You nailed it!
Don’t be so hard on your self about bigger waves, you have already admitted that you aren’t so comfortable in big swell!
That was fucking huge and you were ripping backhand!
Big ups bro, keep living 🤙🏼 yeeeeeew
🙏🏽🙏🏽
That was a sick day I saw that wave too
Great vid inspiring , would love to know the boards you were riding and dims.
Even elite athletes have the same thoughts Kale. The legend J.O.B himself said in his blog he had to get picked because he was pinned in one spot. The book 'Oxygen" by William Trubridge the free diver really opened my eyes to the fact that even the best in the world have the same doubts in their minds, it's what you do with it that counts. It's a pain point for you and a signal for growth 😁 👍 The filming and editing were epic!
Really enjoyed the cinematics on this dude. What are you filming with?
Embrace this situation and keep working to get better. Remember that feeling is experiencing. Little by little You're grow, or suprise yourself and make leaps. Always stay positive and try to connect with the ocean 😎