Your welding/fabrication skills have greatly improved. It's to your credit that you have really applied yourself to learn, practice and build your skillset. I can't imagine those welds you inquired about are factory. Love your videos.
You get a stop for your spot drill.. Basically a metal ring with a pinion screw. Set the stop for the thickness of the plate your drilling, and use the sander for the rest.
The body shop guys i watch use a finger sander or a small cut off wheel in a die grinder to grind through the welds. Sometimes they drill them too. The die grinder makes much quicker work of the welds and is cheaper than replacing the paper on the finger sander
I'm very excited for the workshop build series. Great work on the chassis repair, I love watching your videos. Shorter format ones like this are just as good as the longer ones.
Just a quick trick that I myself realised waay to late. Currently restoring a W116, and while welding I often come across larger than ideal gaps. Instead of putting 20 welds and a lot of heat in it and warping it, I took a copper pipe (like ones for water taps), and beat the end completely flat, then bent it 45 degrees. You can but this behind the work piece and the weld will "flow" across it, closing the gap in the metal, while not sticking to the copper. Saves a lot of time, grinding, gas, and you feel smart ;)
Wie frustrierend. Überall Rost. Theoretisch müsste man jedes Blech lösen um jeden Rost zu finden. Respekt vor der ganzen Arbeit und Geduld! Ich glaube, die hätte ich nicht! Gruß aus Deutschland 🇩🇪 maxi
@@RestoreIt Hi, ich denke, das wird das beste sein. Mache ich mit meinem Projekt wahrscheinlich auch so. Weiterhin alles gute und viel Durchhaltevermögen ❤️ Freut mich jedesmal sehr, wenn ein neues Video kommt! 😘Lieben Gruß, Maximiliane ❤️
I have always found it amazing what ends Brits will go to fixing a car. I always bought southern cars to avoid rust up here in the north of the US. I thought, hey, Spain, Italy...nope, right hand drive! I guess that is a strong motivation and fewer cars to choose from.
For the spot welds that are hard to reach, i'm using extension bit. Made it out of exetension for wood drills. Quite easy to make, just a sleeve to center drill in the extension's socket
You can make your own longer W pointed drill bit for drilling out spot welds that will let you reach those hard to get spot, since the drill will be out from the panel and the bit can be up nice and close. Just use a say 6 or 7mm drill bit or how big you need and sharpen the same geometry as the purchased ones (which are far too short), just be sure to leave a small chisel in the center of the drill so it self centres. Good luck! So nice to see someone doing a restoration properly!
I am using Bosch Cordless Multi Purpose Tool with metal blade which is thinner then the normal chisel tip, it makes it easier for you to separate panels and break the silicone and beads
Invest in a tool steel bit with a flat faced cutting tip, two flute or more, it is harder than drill bits and sharper, cuts through welds like butter and does not hurt the panels behind. Or make one from a 3/8 milling tool bit.
@@RestoreIt talking about instead of a drill bit, not for chiseling but for cutting the spot welds. They are tool steal and will not dull like a drill.
I also enjoy the shorter wait intervals; haha, who doesn't? Anyway, thanks for this update and l Iove watching the work and you making progress! Glad you got the air compressor fixed.
@@RestoreIt man...even small victories mean a lot when dealing with these cars. Believe me, I know. Don't let the small defeats cloud your mind towards the bigger purpose. Hope I can see this car running soon!
on bigger panels such as that wheel well, you can cut off the piece you're replacing near the seam and your spot weld removal bit will be easier to manage. I often times have used a machine screw countersink and drilled a pilot hole in the center of each spot weld, leaving a small thru hole on the posterior panel that gets filled once you do the plug weld. Or there's some jobber lenght drill bits that Black and Decker made in the UK that have a tiny "pilot" drill bit and then sorf of a flat 2 flutes front face cut to cover from the pilot point to the nominal OD, I loved those, especially 8 to 10mm diameters.
as far as the lower corner that you mention, it doesn't look like BMW factory welds. Also, if I may make a suggestion, an old timer taught me to never cut my patch pieces with straight corners. He radiused them heavily, so there's no concentration of heat input on the meeting of 2 straight lines into a corner, but rather a homogeneous and even input across a rounded corner when you weld in the patch. You may want to give that a try, it's a lot easier and it also leaves behind a much more pleasing-to-the-eye, almost "organic" patch that doesn't quite stand out as much. And the panel warps a lot less.
6:54 I quickly checked my 1987 pre-facelift 4-door E30 and it has a similarly shaped sheet metal part in exactly that spot. It's been coated liberally in seamsealer though, so i cannot tell what the welds underneath look like. My car has certainly never had any work done there, that's all original. So if somebody replaced that part on your car, they probably did it with factory replacement parts Edit: I looked a bit closer and i can see and feel those bodgy welds underneath the seamsealer. That's factory-original weld quality🤣😉
Very interesting watch! I am doing similar work to my E46 and it's nice to see other people facing the same issues that I am. They include eg spot weld drill bits being too short, rust in between panels and fabricating new pieces with weird shapes. Great production value on this video. Will be watching more of your stuff.
I’ve run into the issue with clearance for spot weld drill bits as well. I’ve found that using 1/4 hex to 1/4 square socket adapter with the correct size socket to fit the hex shape on the spot weld bit works pretty well as a bit extension.
Really enjoyed this video. Love the change of pace and the new schedule 🥰. It’s amazing what you are doing with that bodywork. I Can’t wait for the next shop build !! I had front row seats to the last two shop builds and really enjoyed them.
Glad to hear it tinMan! I'm enjoying it too. And I'm pleased to hear that! The next workshop series is going to be really, really, good. Proper equiptment in a workshop that fits me really well. I think the final results will be epic. Thanks again!
For longer spotweld drill bits. Make your own. If you have a lathe make a extension so they fit together then weld it. That way it will turn true. Being in the back of the drill will not hurt the temperature on The Cutting Edge
Man you don't need to acid dip your beautiful ride. Fix your rust and put it together and enjoy driving it. If you are building a house where it's sitting in your living room make it perfect so you can sleep at night but if your ultimate goal is to enjoy your driving experience just finish it and ENJOY IT my friend. Cheers!
I'm so hooked on this project! Also, at the risk of being 'one of those people', you really should consider wearing respiratory protection when sanding/grinding. Old paint, basecoat and undercoating especially. Just my concern for you, nothing more :)
you were asking how to remove the spot welds ,have you tried a grinder with a grinding disc ? its look like a cutting disc but it's thicker (5 to 8 mm) it is also good to ruff grind welds as is faster than a finger grinder so you put less heat in to the metal
Have you watched any of Retro Powers channel? There restoration process and anti rust process is second to none. They also have a series called auto focus that explains their process
Always keen for a Restore It episode. Love your stuff man, glad to see you're keeping it up with the regular uploads! Don't overwork yourself though :)
Hi. Maybe look into rust converting the panels that had rust on them prior to priming. Even when there is no visible rust left I do get a reaction if I apply it to the bare metal. That is because some of the rust gets mixed in under clean looking metal from the high rpm power tools. I would get someting not acid based like Brunox which is with epoxy.Also about the acid bath: I heard it is really hard to get all of the acid out of small spaces so since it is appart now anyways I would stick with your method.
I really like this restoration so far! Especially because the way you’re fighting that rust devil. I am also looking forward to see the complete chassis being dipt and e-coated. I only wonder what happens to the paint residue in hard to reach places and cavities. It must stay in there. That could be a reason not to paint the cavities because that will happen while e-coating the chassis. I am just trying to think along with you. Keep up the good work and your passion doing it!
I would still try to coat in between panels. Its not guaranteed that all those parts will be e coated. Just think about how hard it is to get zinc plating into cavities etc. Better be safe than sorry. You cant really lose anything with doing that except a little extra paint.
Als je nu eens een puntlasboor neemt ipv een gewone staalboor om de lassen open te boren gaat het wellicht een stuk makkelijker en beter...wat ik ook hier en daar zie gaat het een stuk sneller ook...
Hi I like doing this sort of thing and I do vehicle stuff on my channel, but I myself couldn’t warrant putting in the time you do into your projects, I just want them done to a decent standard and use them. I admire your dedication to these projects good video 🙂👍
what about a drill bit stoppper on the spot weld drill bit. it wouldn`t help with tight spaces, but for other areas, it`s make the operation pretty mindless.. just push till the stopper touches the metal, and bingo, yoou`r done. maybe?
Awesome as always! I can see you getting covered in crap! My partner swears the best investment I made was buying a welding hood haha! It stops all the crap getting in your hair and leaves your face free for a breathing mask and visor, it also has a skirt for your shoulders to stop crap going down your neck! Keep up the good work man!
You might be able to speed things up a bit buy purchasing a second (and possibly a third) chisel to separate the spot welded sheet metal... Once you pound the first chisel in, just leave it there and insert the second, third chisels into the gap you have opened up with the first chisel... Also, I might try using chisels with different shapes, such as narrower, wider or rounded nose...
Problem isn't doing what he does, it's doing it as nicely as he does it lol I'm doing rust repair on my e36 and I wish I had this skill in metal work and sheet metal forming, shit aint pretty lol, sure I'm patching holes and fixing similar stuff that he does, but the result isn't exactly oem looking.
@@RestoreIt if not, some manufacturers use something similar to metal plumbers tape and it gets painted too, but I’ve watched you from the beginning and know you want OEM parts. Th donor car doesn’t have one? I also want to say that you do amazing work. I am impressed at your welding skills improving so quickly too. Give yourself a pat on the back for what you do, it’s not easy rebuilding and repairing vehicles but you take it to the place I’ve always wanted to go. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
hi, I've seen other channels cut out the bulk of the panel that are removing then drill out the spot welds. don't no if this will help? Fitzee's Fabrications is a good channel to wacth he makes a lot of panels from 3-4 bits of metal.
Don't do acid dipping unless the same place that does the dipping or someplace else can also do the same e-coat 'dip' process that manufacturers have done for decades, where the chassis is totally sunk into primer and it penetrates every part and crevice of the chassis. Remember acid dipping and paint removes EVERYTHING, also primer and other coatings in places you can't even see or get to.
If you now take a spot weld drill instead of an ordinary steel drill to drill open the welds, it will be a lot easier and better... whatever I see here and there, it goes a lot faster too...
I'm using the flat spot weld drill bit that came in the kit, alongside the chisel tipped ones. I'm confused, is that bit even a spot well drill bit?... The none chisel tip one...
Search chassis acid dipping or stripping. Its the process of dipping the enitre chassis into a bath of a certain type of acid, which strips all rust and old sealants off
Apparently you are not ment to turn the compressor off and on by that red switch and not ment to turn it off at all while it is running, think he said red switch is a emergency cut off only🤷♂️
@@RestoreIt Yes, he has a point. One should never turn off a compressor while it is running …….. it can cause damage to it. I was taught to always let compressor finish its cycle until it shuts itself off when it reaches pressure ……. Only then shut the on/off switch. Two other pointers I wanted to pass on to you. There is another British gent I watch who is doing similar work on an old Mercedes (I think his channel is Mercedes Maintenance …. He is on the West Coast of US. I have even mentioned your channel to him in the past and he said he has seen your channel too. His name is John. Two things I have heard him mention: 1. When you are spot welding in your patches …. After you get the first batch of spots done he says to grind them down rather than waiting until you have done the whole patch. He says if you do that you can see the pinholes you have left much easier and you don’t build up as much weld which you have to grind off again. 2. He uses the finger sander a lot like you do …… He says he used to use the heavier grit paper a lot (40 grit I think). He finds that the finer grit paper like 80 or higher works just as good and does not wear out as fast. The rough paper rips apart too quickly and wastes a lot. I may be wrong on the grit number I am quoting 40 to 80 …… maybe 80 to 120 ….. but I think you get the idea. Sorry if I am rehashing something someone else may have said to you already or if you disagree with what I have said. I enjoy watching the work you do and admire the tremendous patience you have.
Dang this looks like a LOT of work and also like the car is butchered in the past... Massive props for your dedication!
Thanks Bas! Lots of work ahead but I'm loving it. Cheers.
I do bodywork for a living. Nobody in the shop uses spot weld bits. We always use finger sanders.
I thought this was the case, Marc. I've seen some pros on UA-cam and its all finger sander. Cheers for the info.
As a very long time subscriber, I am impressed and pleased to see how you have steadily increased your skills! Great work young man! Keep it up!
I'm glad to hear it WRG! :D Thanks for watching and sticking with me. Lots more to come!
Your welding/fabrication skills have greatly improved. It's to your credit that you have really applied yourself to learn, practice and build your skillset. I can't imagine those welds you inquired about are factory. Love your videos.
You get a stop for your spot drill.. Basically a metal ring with a pinion screw. Set the stop for the thickness of the plate your drilling, and use the sander for the rest.
The body shop guys i watch use a finger sander or a small cut off wheel in a die grinder to grind through the welds. Sometimes they drill them too. The die grinder makes much quicker work of the welds and is cheaper than replacing the paper on the finger sander
I'm very excited for the workshop build series. Great work on the chassis repair, I love watching your videos. Shorter format ones like this are just as good as the longer ones.
Glad to hear it Dan! And thank you very much, I glad you're enjoying it!
Just a quick trick that I myself realised waay to late. Currently restoring a W116, and while welding I often come across larger than ideal gaps. Instead of putting 20 welds and a lot of heat in it and warping it, I took a copper pipe (like ones for water taps), and beat the end completely flat, then bent it 45 degrees. You can but this behind the work piece and the weld will "flow" across it, closing the gap in the metal, while not sticking to the copper. Saves a lot of time, grinding, gas, and you feel smart ;)
Wie frustrierend. Überall Rost. Theoretisch müsste man jedes Blech lösen um jeden Rost zu finden.
Respekt vor der ganzen Arbeit und Geduld! Ich glaube, die hätte ich nicht! Gruß aus Deutschland 🇩🇪 maxi
Danke Maxi :D Ich werde das Auto in Säure tauchen und KTL-beschichten lassen.
@@RestoreIt Hi, ich denke, das wird das beste sein. Mache ich mit meinem Projekt wahrscheinlich auch so. Weiterhin alles gute und viel Durchhaltevermögen ❤️ Freut mich jedesmal sehr, wenn ein neues Video kommt! 😘Lieben Gruß, Maximiliane ❤️
I have always found it amazing what ends Brits will go to fixing a car. I always bought southern cars to avoid rust up here in the north of the US. I thought, hey, Spain, Italy...nope, right hand drive! I guess that is a strong motivation and fewer cars to choose from.
For the spot welds that are hard to reach, i'm using extension bit. Made it out of exetension for wood drills. Quite easy to make, just a sleeve to center drill in the extension's socket
You can make your own longer W pointed drill bit for drilling out spot welds that will let you reach those hard to get spot, since the drill will be out from the panel and the bit can be up nice and close. Just use a say 6 or 7mm drill bit or how big you need and sharpen the same geometry as the purchased ones (which are far too short), just be sure to leave a small chisel in the center of the drill so it self centres. Good luck! So nice to see someone doing a restoration properly!
Thanks Patrick! I'll give this a go.
I am using Bosch Cordless Multi Purpose Tool with metal blade which is thinner then the normal chisel tip, it makes it easier for you to separate panels and break the silicone and beads
Thanks for the info B K, I'll look into these
Stunning work. I agree with other comments it is enjoyable to catch up regularly and see you at work. Thanks.
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
Invest in a tool steel bit with a flat faced cutting tip, two flute or more, it is harder than drill bits and sharper, cuts through welds like butter and does not hurt the panels behind. Or make one from a 3/8 milling tool bit.
I believe thats what I'm using. Its the one that came with the chisel type that has changable heads on it.
@@RestoreIt talking about instead of a drill bit, not for chiseling but for cutting the spot welds. They are tool steal and will not dull like a drill.
I'm happy with shorter, more frequent vids. You are so meticulous with your work, and it's a real pleasure to watch you do your thing!
I also enjoy the shorter wait intervals; haha, who doesn't? Anyway, thanks for this update and l Iove watching the work and you making progress! Glad you got the air compressor fixed.
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
the ammount of time and dedication you provided this carwith is astonishing. Keep it up :)
Thank you ElMacho! I'm glad even small bits of progress are keeping you happy :)
@@RestoreIt man...even small victories mean a lot when dealing with these cars.
Believe me, I know. Don't let the small defeats cloud your mind towards the bigger purpose. Hope I can see this car running soon!
on bigger panels such as that wheel well, you can cut off the piece you're replacing near the seam and your spot weld removal bit will be easier to manage. I often times have used a machine screw countersink and drilled a pilot hole in the center of each spot weld, leaving a small thru hole on the posterior panel that gets filled once you do the plug weld. Or there's some jobber lenght drill bits that Black and Decker made in the UK that have a tiny "pilot" drill bit and then sorf of a flat 2 flutes front face cut to cover from the pilot point to the nominal OD, I loved those, especially 8 to 10mm diameters.
Thanks for another interesting and informative video, and also for the excellent voice-over commentary.
No problem, George. Thanks for watching, glad you're enjoying it!
Fantastic job repairing the rusted spots. 👍👍
as far as the lower corner that you mention, it doesn't look like BMW factory welds. Also, if I may make a suggestion, an old timer taught me to never cut my patch pieces with straight corners. He radiused them heavily, so there's no concentration of heat input on the meeting of 2 straight lines into a corner, but rather a homogeneous and even input across a rounded corner when you weld in the patch. You may want to give that a try, it's a lot easier and it also leaves behind a much more pleasing-to-the-eye, almost "organic" patch that doesn't quite stand out as much. And the panel warps a lot less.
Looking forward to seeing a video of the build of the new shop!
6:54 I quickly checked my 1987 pre-facelift 4-door E30 and it has a similarly shaped sheet metal part in exactly that spot. It's been coated liberally in seamsealer though, so i cannot tell what the welds underneath look like. My car has certainly never had any work done there, that's all original. So if somebody replaced that part on your car, they probably did it with factory replacement parts
Edit: I looked a bit closer and i can see and feel those bodgy welds underneath the seamsealer. That's factory-original weld quality🤣😉
Very interesting watch! I am doing similar work to my E46 and it's nice to see other people facing the same issues that I am. They include eg spot weld drill bits being too short, rust in between panels and fabricating new pieces with weird shapes. Great production value on this video. Will be watching more of your stuff.
I’ve run into the issue with clearance for spot weld drill bits as well. I’ve found that using 1/4 hex to 1/4 square socket adapter with the correct size socket to fit the hex shape on the spot weld bit works pretty well as a bit extension.
Interesting, I'll give this a go, cheers, William!
Really enjoyed this video. Love the change of pace and the new schedule 🥰. It’s amazing what you are doing with that bodywork. I Can’t wait for the next shop build !! I had front row seats to the last two shop builds and really enjoyed them.
Glad to hear it tinMan! I'm enjoying it too. And I'm pleased to hear that! The next workshop series is going to be really, really, good. Proper equiptment in a workshop that fits me really well. I think the final results will be epic. Thanks again!
good restore👍👍
For a work shop builder, you are pretty good with cars!
For longer spotweld drill bits. Make your own. If you have a lathe make a extension so they fit together then weld it. That way it will turn true. Being in the back of the drill will not hurt the temperature on The Cutting Edge
i like this “smaller bite” format better.
Thanks for watching... expect new videos coming soon...send a direct message to the above name on telegram...I have something for you 🎁
Man you don't need to acid dip your beautiful ride. Fix your rust and put it together and enjoy driving it. If you are building a house where it's sitting in your living room make it perfect so you can sleep at night but if your ultimate goal is to enjoy your driving experience just finish it and ENJOY IT my friend. Cheers!
Nice work! You can use the tip of your mini belt sander to grind right through spot welds in difficult locations.
You need some other chisel... some longer and thiner one for spliting panels
Roger that adam, I'll look into it.
Wooo, early to a video again. Look forward to this one
Cheers Rob! Enjoy.
I'm so hooked on this project! Also, at the risk of being 'one of those people', you really should consider wearing respiratory protection when sanding/grinding. Old paint, basecoat and undercoating especially. Just my concern for you, nothing more :)
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
you were asking how to remove the spot welds ,have you tried a grinder with a grinding disc ? its look like a cutting disc but it's thicker (5 to 8 mm) it is also good to ruff grind welds as is faster than a finger grinder so you put less heat in to the metal
Have you watched any of Retro Powers channel? There restoration process and anti rust process is second to none. They also have a series called auto focus that explains their process
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
Always keen for a Restore It episode. Love your stuff man, glad to see you're keeping it up with the regular uploads! Don't overwork yourself though :)
Thanks Brendan! Well, with the new bits of equipment coming, my life will be much easier and my times spend wiser.
@Restore It
That upper hook system might be the petrol door trigger line
Your fabrication work as improved 100% well done
Not sure if someone already told but those lower spot welds what you wondering are from factory. Mine has exactly same looking welds.
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
For spot welds: Makita 0600 + Pferd 1210.
Hi. Maybe look into rust converting the panels that had rust on them prior to priming. Even when there is no visible rust left I do get a reaction if I apply it to the bare metal. That is because some of the rust gets mixed in under clean looking metal from the high rpm power tools. I would get someting not acid based like Brunox which is with epoxy.Also about the acid bath: I heard it is really hard to get all of the acid out of small spaces so since it is appart now anyways I would stick with your method.
Wow you guys were fast.
Thanks Fabian!
Хорошая работа!
I really like this restoration so far! Especially because the way you’re fighting that rust devil. I am also looking forward to see the complete chassis being dipt and e-coated. I only wonder what happens to the paint residue in hard to reach places and cavities. It must stay in there. That could be a reason not to paint the cavities because that will happen while e-coating the chassis. I am just trying to think along with you. Keep up the good work and your passion doing it!
I would still try to coat in between panels. Its not guaranteed that all those parts will be e coated. Just think about how hard it is to get zinc plating into cavities etc. Better be safe than sorry. You cant really lose anything with doing that except a little extra paint.
Als je nu eens een puntlasboor neemt ipv een gewone staalboor om de lassen open te boren gaat het wellicht een stuk makkelijker en beter...wat ik ook hier en daar zie gaat het een stuk sneller ook...
Thanks Marcel :D
Hi I like doing this sort of thing and I do vehicle stuff on my channel, but I myself couldn’t warrant putting in the time you do into your projects, I just want them done to a decent standard and use them. I admire your dedication to these projects good video 🙂👍
Thanks Mend It Man, each to their own :D
The bit works better with a cup of oil to dip it in before drilling each spot weld.
Good shout Benjamin, cheers!
...there is always rust where you don't expect it, good work, keep safe..
It's a bugger! Cheers, Bob.
Does that reciprocating saw eat blades? I think i got to have one now.
Yes. But its totally worth it :D
Looks nice like a "hatchback" style.
Those welds at 7:12 look like some of the factory welds on my e36
Although you seem to make fun of us, it's still also fun to watch it.
Those welds you are talking about an 7:00 are indeed from the factory.
Did you consider chemically dipping the whole body and all the old panels? It'll help remove all the old coating and reveal the rust underneath.
Nice work. Rather than juggle holding the ground to the job just linish a spot near by. One less thing in your way and worry about when welding.
what about a drill bit stoppper on the spot weld drill bit. it wouldn`t help with tight spaces, but for other areas, it`s make the operation pretty mindless.. just push till the stopper touches the metal, and bingo, yoou`r done. maybe?
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
Awesome as always! I can see you getting covered in crap! My partner swears the best investment I made was buying a welding hood haha! It stops all the crap getting in your hair and leaves your face free for a breathing mask and visor, it also has a skirt for your shoulders to stop crap going down your neck! Keep up the good work man!
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
You might be able to speed things up a bit buy purchasing a second (and possibly a third) chisel to separate the spot welded sheet metal... Once you pound the first chisel in, just leave it there and insert the second, third chisels into the gap you have opened up with the first chisel... Also, I might try using chisels with different shapes, such as narrower, wider or rounded nose...
Thanks Al, some solid advice here. I'll look into it, cheers,
@@RestoreIt - Centre punch and Spot Weld Drill!
hi, i too have a e30 to restore and i was just wondering where you will be getting your panels from. cheers and thanks for the content ! 👍
Great video buddy 👍🏻
Cheers, Stevie!
Very nice Work Love it and this Project and the Video ❤️👍❤️
I really love your work!
Can you tell me what you used to protect the metal? (9:00) also brand and any advice with it? Thanks
Well done, I wish I could do half as much as you can.
Thanks, Eightfivetwo!
Problem isn't doing what he does, it's doing it as nicely as he does it lol
I'm doing rust repair on my e36 and I wish I had this skill in metal work and sheet metal forming, shit aint pretty lol, sure I'm patching holes and fixing similar stuff that he does, but the result isn't exactly oem looking.
Plans to buy a TIG? Expensive but would be massive upgrade
That bracket is for fuel expansion tank...
Oh yes, I think you're right Ante...
You got serious problems!!! But I like it. Love your show fan Sweden 🇸🇪.
Haha, thanks, Claus!
I think that bracket was for the brake line.
I think you might be right Mary. I wonder if BMW still sell them... Its a long shot.
@@RestoreIt if not, some manufacturers use something similar to metal plumbers tape and it gets painted too, but I’ve watched you from the beginning and know you want OEM parts. Th donor car doesn’t have one? I also want to say that you do amazing work. I am impressed at your welding skills improving so quickly too. Give yourself a pat on the back for what you do, it’s not easy rebuilding and repairing vehicles but you take it to the place I’ve always wanted to go. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
How did you protect the other side of that metal sheet?
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
Superbe travail , bravo !
"Be Seeing You" ! 👌
N°6
hi, I've seen other channels cut out the bulk of the panel that are removing then drill out the spot welds. don't no if this will help? Fitzee's Fabrications is a good channel to wacth he makes a lot of panels from 3-4 bits of metal.
I've actually seen him to this myself. It's a good shout actually. I could have easily done that. Cheers Kenneth, I'll keep it in mind.
Love your work 👍
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
Don't do acid dipping unless the same place that does the dipping or someplace else can also do the same e-coat 'dip' process that manufacturers have done for decades, where the chassis is totally sunk into primer and it penetrates every part and crevice of the chassis. Remember acid dipping and paint removes EVERYTHING, also primer and other coatings in places you can't even see or get to.
What about the bracket?
Thanks for watching... expect new videos coming soon...send a direct message to the above name on telegram...I have something for you 🎁
If you now take a spot weld drill instead of an ordinary steel drill to drill open the welds, it will be a lot easier and better... whatever I see here and there, it goes a lot faster too...
I'm using the flat spot weld drill bit that came in the kit, alongside the chisel tipped ones. I'm confused, is that bit even a spot well drill bit?... The none chisel tip one...
What exactly is "dippin" how do i find out more about it ?
Search chassis acid dipping or stripping. Its the process of dipping the enitre chassis into a bath of a certain type of acid, which strips all rust and old sealants off
You are the automotive version of a meticulous Japanese gardener. I couldn't be that patient even if I wasn't also trying to film.
Why do you use orange
It's anti-corrosion, weld-through bodywork primer, its perfect for the job.
definitely watch and learn from fitzee
Thanks for watching ✅
Message right away...I have something for you 🎁
"babe wake up, Restore It posted a new E30 video."
Eres un artista!
Thanks for your support big fan💜 send a direct message 🔝 I have something for you
Lets go!!😁
Thank you, plzz!
Nice job, weld done :)
Thanks, Juan! :)
Why not do m3 fenders at this point? Cost?
Thanks for watching... expect new videos coming soon...send a direct message to the above name on telegram...I have something for you 🎁
😊
Vehcor uses a die grinder, to remove his spot welds
Regular 20 minutes video are the way to go... IMHO
Thanks for watching... expect new videos coming soon...send a direct message to the above name on telegram...I have something for you 🎁
Muy bien al detalle !!!!
Air Hammer Chisel?
Oh yes, I have one of these. I'm an idiot. I will get it out during next ep :D
@@RestoreIt I was just watching thinking, "Why is he doing this by hand?" heh.
A half used cutting or grinding disk is faster and 10 times cheaper than a finger sanding band................ and it does the same thing as the belt.
That's a good point... I've seen a few garages do this. I'll give it a go, cheers, Richard.
hello sir, where i can get your contact or your website ?
Hi there, please contact me at restoreitchannel@gmail.com. Thanks
Great work so far! If you're looking for ideas to make work easier, watch Arthur Tussik. Maybe he'll have something that will work for you.
Apparently you are not ment to turn the compressor off and on by that red switch and not ment to turn it off at all while it is running, think he said red switch is a emergency cut off only🤷♂️
I'll look into this, John. Thanks for the advice.
@@RestoreIt Yes, he has a point. One should never turn off a compressor while it is running …….. it can cause damage to it. I was taught to always let compressor finish its cycle until it shuts itself off when it reaches pressure ……. Only then shut the on/off switch.
Two other pointers I wanted to pass on to you. There is another British gent I watch who is doing similar work on an old Mercedes (I think his channel is Mercedes Maintenance …. He is on the West Coast of US. I have even mentioned your channel to him in the past and he said he has seen your channel too. His name is John. Two things I have heard him mention:
1. When you are spot welding in your patches …. After you get the first batch of spots done he says to grind them down rather than waiting until you have done the whole patch. He says if you do that you can see the pinholes you have left much easier and you don’t build up as much weld which you have to grind off again.
2. He uses the finger sander a lot like you do …… He says he used to use the heavier grit paper a lot (40 grit I think). He finds that the finer grit paper like 80 or higher works just as good and does not wear out as fast. The rough paper rips apart too quickly and wastes a lot. I may be wrong on the grit number I am quoting 40 to 80 …… maybe 80 to 120 ….. but I think you get the idea.
Sorry if I am rehashing something someone else may have said to you already or if you disagree with what I have said. I enjoy watching the work you do and admire the tremendous patience you have.
more Restore It is better, I say
Well you'll be pleased to know theres a lot more to come! Cheers Andre
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you need to use tig
Супер 👍🏻
Cheers!