Nice work! The more we do the more we know! However, I would started with pair 1 (1/2 or 3/4) then I would sync the 2 pairs together. Either way, if in the end the result is the same, it doesn't really matter. Keep up!
Hi there sorry I have since sold the bike, fully functioning I may add. They are in center of each carb just under the throttle plate. You may have one that is plugged from the factory these plugs need to removed so u can adjust.
Hi, I had the same issue on my F4. Everything went well until the setting of the pilot screws. I have the same pilot screw adjustment tool as you have. No matter what I tried i found it impossible to get access and make any adjustment to carb 3. The setting for the F4 was even more complicated than the F3, i.e. set to highest RMP the turn pilot screw to drop 50 rpm, turn out pilot screw 3/4 turns. I gave up in the end and set all to standard 3 turns. Will probably have another try when my blood pressure returns to normal. Great series of videos. Cheers.
Interesting that that tool worked for you, my pilot screws don’t take a flat blade, they take a d-shaped end. On both my carb sets that I have from a 95 and a 98
Yeah the D shaper pilot screws are the original honda items, you can cut a line into them for flat screwdrivers or get them out and replace with adjustable pilot screws with Normal Philips head
Helped me out with my 97 f3 project. Big thanks. Did you ever feel that 3turns out was still a little lean? Even with just the aftermarket pipe? My throttle still doesn’t feel as snappy
Hi there funnily enough yes I did, but since this video I have discovered a vacuum leak at the back of carbs 3 and 4, if I sprayed carb cleaner revs would pick up. If your revs are still hanging with 3 turns out I would check for vac leaks. 2 turns is the standard so you may be inadvertently compensating for a vac leak
The one I picked up had around 13,xxxM and it is a 49 states version. I did notice the hanging throttle after the first carb tear down. I found out after that the vacuum lines on the right side of carb 1 and the right side of carb 4 practically crumbled. So I changed those. I benched sat the pilots @ 2.5 turns after watching your video as a starting point, ending at around 3. (Whoever had it before me sat the pilots all the way in causing it to only run on choke) Sounded so much better at 3turns. Just wasn’t sure if just the air mods (hiflo filter with pipe) are too much for the current jetting causing a lag in throttle response. Sounded like yours was instantaneous. Oh and mine also has that tach needle sway at idle, very minimal though. So possibly an area for improvement or maybe just how it is. How’s it running now?
Well I cleaned the choke plungers but idle still hunts noticed the carb boots are leaking a.little bit even tho they are brand new and honda items, I may apply a little sealant to get them to seal better
1:58 No, not ok. Carb 3 butterfly is adjusted with idle screw. To begin with - we should have number 3 butterfly closed and all other opened slightly and then we can begin syncing. Imagine number 4 being opened far less than number 3 - then your idle screw adjuster would not even make contact with the throttle bracket. The correct way on this bike is to make sure number 3 is opened just a little bit and number 1,2 and 4 opened slighlty more. This would be perfect starting point. Then - you sync number 4 to number 3. Next step - adjust number 1 with number 2. The last part is sycing PAIR of 1&2 with PAIR of 3&4. If it's done differently - your readings would jump all over the place. Cheers!
You changed the carb boots? Try spraying carb cleaner down around them and see if idle changes, I had old carbs boots leak, new carb boots leak it's only when I got genuine oem Honda items did it not have a vac leak
Nice work! The more we do the more we know!
However, I would started with pair 1 (1/2 or 3/4) then I would sync the 2 pairs together.
Either way, if in the end the result is the same, it doesn't really matter.
Keep up!
Could you do a close up of where exactly the adjustment screws are please? Thanks
Hi there sorry I have since sold the bike, fully functioning I may add. They are in center of each carb just under the throttle plate. You may have one that is plugged from the factory these plugs need to removed so u can adjust.
@@callytech.d2r813 thanks I'll give it a go soon
Hi, I had the same issue on my F4. Everything went well until the setting of the pilot screws. I have the same pilot screw adjustment tool as you have. No matter what I tried i found it impossible to get access and make any adjustment to carb 3. The setting for the F4 was even more complicated than the F3, i.e. set to highest RMP the turn pilot screw to drop 50 rpm, turn out pilot screw 3/4 turns. I gave up in the end and set all to standard 3 turns. Will probably have another try when my blood pressure returns to normal. Great series of videos. Cheers.
11:49 where can I find this tool? I can’t find it anywhere
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325362403557?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zZjxWvPnTcO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=baggN63TQJO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Interesting that that tool worked for you, my pilot screws don’t take a flat blade, they take a d-shaped end. On both my carb sets that I have from a 95 and a 98
Yeah the D shaper pilot screws are the original honda items, you can cut a line into them for flat screwdrivers or get them out and replace with adjustable pilot screws with Normal Philips head
Helped me out with my 97 f3 project. Big thanks. Did you ever feel that 3turns out was still a little lean? Even with just the aftermarket pipe? My throttle still doesn’t feel as snappy
Hi there funnily enough yes I did, but since this video I have discovered a vacuum leak at the back of carbs 3 and 4, if I sprayed carb cleaner revs would pick up. If your revs are still hanging with 3 turns out I would check for vac leaks. 2 turns is the standard so you may be inadvertently compensating for a vac leak
The leak I think fyi is coming from the Choke plungers it look likes
The one I picked up had around 13,xxxM and it is a 49 states version. I did notice the hanging throttle after the first carb tear down. I found out after that the vacuum lines on the right side of carb 1 and the right side of carb 4 practically crumbled. So I changed those. I benched sat the pilots @ 2.5 turns after watching your video as a starting point, ending at around 3. (Whoever had it before me sat the pilots all the way in causing it to only run on choke) Sounded so much better at 3turns.
Just wasn’t sure if just the air mods (hiflo filter with pipe) are too much for the current jetting causing a lag in throttle response. Sounded like yours was instantaneous. Oh and mine also has that tach needle sway at idle, very minimal though. So possibly an area for improvement or maybe just how it is. How’s it running now?
Well I cleaned the choke plungers but idle still hunts noticed the carb boots are leaking a.little bit even tho they are brand new and honda items, I may apply a little sealant to get them to seal better
I have 600F4 and I'm needing to adjust my pilot screws as well
1:58 No, not ok. Carb 3 butterfly is adjusted with idle screw. To begin with - we should have number 3 butterfly closed and all other opened slightly and then we can begin syncing. Imagine number 4 being opened far less than number 3 - then your idle screw adjuster would not even make contact with the throttle bracket. The correct way on this bike is to make sure number 3 is opened just a little bit and number 1,2 and 4 opened slighlty more. This would be perfect starting point. Then - you sync number 4 to number 3. Next step - adjust number 1 with number 2. The last part is sycing PAIR of 1&2 with PAIR of 3&4. If it's done differently - your readings would jump all over the place. Cheers!
Did messing with the fuel screw did it mes with the synchronized carbs?
No not usually I try do carb sync first and then adjust with fuel screws.
Well done cal just as I said was the problem 😀
My cbr600 fx idle is awful, bike only donr 7k, fully stripped carbs n cleaned, then rebalanced using carb tune, still awful!
You changed the carb boots? Try spraying carb cleaner down around them and see if idle changes, I had old carbs boots leak, new carb boots leak it's only when I got genuine oem Honda items did it not have a vac leak
@@callytech.d2r813vacuum leak is a good one because even a pinhole throws it off.
ᵖʳᵒᵐᵒˢᵐ 🤗
Stop swearing
Did you figure out the leaks?
Hi there yes, it was between the carb boot and engine, I used bran new oem boots with little bit of sealant applied. Been fine since