I want to share my contradictory experience. I live in Tucson, Arizona. It's a dry desert here, but we have a massive Summer Monsoon season that lasts a month and shifts the humidity across the scale. This wrecks havoc on my guitar necks. I have ESP quarter sawn necks that need adjustment 2-3 times per year because of it. I switched to playing Jackson Dinky's with Graphite Rod Re-inforcement. I have both a flat sawn X-Dinky model, and a Quartersawn MIJ Dinky (made in japan). I NEVER have to adjust these truss rods on these graphite reinforced necks at all through the year. They are rock solid stable because of it. It's a dream... Because of that, I am resolved to NEVER buy another guitar without rod re-inforcement. Even quartersawn... For my location, it's just a no brainer. I hope in the future that Warmoth would consider that condition and provide products to accommodate our needs here in places with massively shifting humidity throughout the year.
What are the two species of wood in your neck? If the relief changes as humidity changes, it's usually due to the difference in shrink rate of the two species. Ebony has a very high rate of shrink, so when you put an ebony fretboard on a maple neck, you get this problem. You'd be much better off with a rosewood fretboard, which is closer to the shrink rate of maple. The CF rods won't fix this, by the way. The rods are too close to the bending axis of the neck to have much effect on bowing.
@@gregholmberg2 Living in New England USA and I have to set up all guitars 2x a year. Quartersawn is minor, flatsawn takes more to tweak. Maple/maple strat necks. In the 1980's I learned quartersawn withstood better temp and humidity changes than anything else until I owned a Carvin with graphite reinforcement rods. I never had to mess with that neck and love that guitar still to this day!
I was told by a very famous premier neck maker you cut the neck blank down the middle and flip one end and glue it and that way it cannot bow because the two pieces will be fighting each other and cancel each other out!
I have bought probably 14 aftermarket necks, only 1 of them is quartersawn. That neck is the brightest piece of wood I've ever encountered, it makes every finished guitar extremely bright. May just be a coincidence, but that's why I only have 1 quartersawn neck.
Perfect explanation especially at the end when you mentioned roasted maple. I didn’t see that option even though I knew it was a possibility. I sometimes travel from a dry climate to a wet and humid climate and for that reason alone it would be worth quarter sawn roasted maple. You guys bring a smile to my face when you cover custom guitar options. I like G&L guitars but taking it a step further building my own is frikken awesome. It’ll take awhile until I get to my build but at least there are hopes. Whether this is offered in super wide is the next step. Not even sure if I need a big ol’ plank o wood in my hand but research says yes, your big ass right hand needs cone shaped U, 48 mm. Help me Mr. Wizard. lol. Massive email sent. Chat later about this.
Shijie quarter sawn roasted Canadian maple necks with thin poly finish are my favorite necks on their S and T models - the owner is a luthier with a deep love for them.
Aaron - I learn a great deal every time I watch your videos. I’ve built five Warmoth guitars and although I also have Heritage and PRS guitars….its the Warmoth guitars that come with me to every gig. Those Warmoth guitars just feel and sound perfect to me. There is also the pride I have in those guitars when other guitarist who come to my shows come up to me between sets to ask about the Warmoth guitars. Awesome work Warmoth!
IMO, one of the benefits of a quartersawn neck is that it looks better to the eye, but the most important benefit is the increased rigidity and strength of a quartersawn neck. Simply said, a quartersawn neck won't flex as much during playing and is less likely to bend due to changes in climate. Unless ye LIKE bending the neck itself to vibrato the sound a bit, then get the regular flatsawn necks which are easier to bend the wood. But the flip side is that it'll be more susceptible to bending from climatic changes too. Me? Gimme quartersawn necks any day for the strength and quartersawn bodies for the looks under transparent finishes. Unless the body is getting solid opaque finishes, then any kind of wood cut is acceptable.
Great video. I like both flat and quarter for different reasons. I think that flat for guitars is more aesthetically pleasing with the more wavey and random look. For bass I like quarter as it always seems more stable and stiffer which a bass neck needs because of the longer length. The only thing I have noticed is that flat sawn really need perfectly sized pilot holes to avoid cracking the wood, especially with roasted maple. Also flat sawn seems to hold screws ever so slightly better.
Really cool video that. Honest and brilliantly explained 😎 Does the type of wood, cut etc effect the tone, probably in some way 🤷♂️ Can the average person tell that it does, probably not. Never break the bank to buy a guitar. Certainly never get into debt for one. Unless it's a 1960 all original untouched fender jazz bass 😆
I had tried thin necks for years, but they seemed "flimsy" , or had the "bendiness" you described. Always wanted a wizard-type neck, saw them on Warmoth, and they had quartersawn... as well as Stainless frets. That n3eck hasn't warped over a couple of years, and the frets are great.
I love quartersawn necks for the tuning stability, especially my necks which are three-piece maple with a quartersawn middle third. They are always in tune when I pick them up.
Interesting. I had an Ovation acoustic that I only noticed had a quartersawn when I found out what that was a few years ago, and the guitar is almost never out of tune. I had attributed it to the graphite nut and bridge, so I'll have to reconsider that conclusion.
I have a quartersawn maple neck and roasted maple flatsawn neck, both from warmoth. I also get the feeling that the quartersawn neck feels much stiffer.
I bought a cheap Ibanez guitar a couple years ago that has crazy Birds Eye all over the neck. I was trying to find information about birdseye figuring online and one comment on a forum stated that Birds Eye is usually a result of flat sawn wood so likely a sign that a neck will be unstable There isn’t much online I was able to find about Birds Eye figuring beyond that it’s generally considered a flaw but I guess guitarists and furniture buffs are into it I’m curious if someone can give more info about Birds Eye and weather that impacts neck stability? (My guitar has been a little unstable during the drier winter months but it is still fairly new)
The birds eye pattern comes from the little shoots from the edge of the tree, so to get the most birdseye it has to be flat sawn. if you had QS wood the birds eye would only be on one edge and run acorss the board. (it would look like lines rather than dots) Once dried, it's plenty stable enough for a guitar neck with a truss rod though.
One of the best ways to understand quarter sawn wood is to focus on the fact that quarter sawn will yield more waste, but what you actually get out of it is a higher quality more rigid piece of lumber.
I just watched the video again and I'm going to also comment on what Aaron said about the wood looking nice with the flecks... for the little design in the grain that shows up with quarter sawn. I bought a nice quarter sawn bird's eye Telecaster neck from warm up and it indeed has those characteristics. In fact, when I first took it out of the box I was absolutely stunned at how bright the wood was. It almost looked like I was holding an LED light. And I'm not even joking. When I shone the light on it it was magical. One of the best necks I've got. Worth the money.
Seems like it would make the most difference on maple neck. Guitars with a separate fret board probably don't have the same type of stability problems.
Aaron I know that alder bodies are fairly 'neutral' and swamp ash is a tiny bit scooped in comparison with a quicker response and more high end snap (at least that's my experience)...can you tell me where a mahogany body with a maple veneer/top would sit compared to the other two?...thanks and your videos are fantastic!
My only beef with flatsawn necks, specifically with my #1 that is a PRS, is that it is very sensitive to pitch changes when holding the neck. Any movement forward or backwards can affect pitch. Some people like this, especially for modulating lead lines, but I find it to detrimental for high-gain, heavy riffing.
If mahogany Gibson necks were quartersawn there would be a lot less headstock breaks. Maple grain structure doesn't have the same problems. I really like the 3 piece maple necks where the middle piece is from the same block but its turned 90 degrees. Those seem indestructible.
Aaron - can you please tell me how to contact someone about my account erroneously getting flagged as spam on the unofficial warmoth forum. I've made 3 posts there, all on topic and no spam. I can't figure out how to contact anyone to get this corrected.
It's more than just quarter sawn that makes a piece of wood desirable. It's also the compactness of the grain and the straightness of that grain. Remember, each line of grain represents one year of growth of the tree. So a tree that grows really fast has wide spaces between the grain lines. I don't know why anyone would use anything but QS wood on a guitar neck. It's a musical instrument not a bench. Wouldn't you have a higher standard of quality for an elevated application like a guitar neck? Believe it or not I've seen Squier's on the wall at GC with QS necks so it pays to know something about wood when looking at guitars.
Great video man! I’ve purchased a handful of rosewood shaft necks from you guys and I’m wondering if most of those are Infact quarter sawn, or if I just got lucky. On two of them I paid the up charge and my first one was I purchased just happened to be quarter sawn as well. They all play and feel great and are very stable as well, just curious. Thanks 🤙
Like quarter sawn because it vibrates in the hands. From the player perspective it is just an added feel or connection to the instrument. As far as sounding better. Think the average listener wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The typical historically correct fender would probably be a flat sawn body and a near flat sawn neck. A complete mystery why some guitars sound good? Have an unassuming 83 telecaster and It sounds great. But put that neck on another body and it isn't that great? Quarter sawn neck on a semi hollow body or an acoustic guitar is interesting because there is a lot of vibration going on to begin with. A quarter sawn neck just adds to the vibrations. Bought a quarter sawn body so I thought it would be interesting to put a quarter sawn neck on it. That is one stiff guitar. Lol. Now I have changed my build philosophy and have gone back to flat sawn bodies. Necks that are halfway between quarter and flat (30°-60° angle) are great necks and you don't have to pay quarter sawn price. Got one by chance and it is one of my favorite necks. Like the best of both worlds.? Other than that it is a complete crap shoot in my humble opinion. On finding a body and a neck that work well together. If they don't work together ill just throw another neck on and see what happens. Like musical chairs with necks and bodies. When it sounds feels good. Ill leave it alone. For a long time. Quite possibly forever.
Your comment makes a whole lot of sense. I’ve had guitars that just sounded kind of dead not plugged in and then I’d do a neck swap and for whatever reason it became considerably more resonant. I’d be asking myself if it’s just my imagination even, but lo and behold it was. And also visa versa with it becoming less resonant as well.
Sometimes I'll change the fretboard wood. Ebony, maple rosewood all bring something different to the mix. Just depends if the body needs brightening up or warming up.
@@geraldponce8336 For me, I'll just go with an Ebony board if given the choice ( either for brightness or not ), I just love the feel of it when it's sanded smoothly, it's like glass. Some folks don't care for that feeling too but eh... different strokes for different folks too :)
Ebony is awesome, brightest of the bunch. Have a 9 lbs strat with a ebony fretboard. An mertlewood acoustic and a warmoth neck that I am still looking for a body for.
Quarter-sawn is so much stiffer that it doesn't need carbon fiber stiffening bars. I have 1 Mighty Mite neck like that, and I haven't adjusted the truss rod since I bought it in 1980. My other guitars all need seasonal tweaks.
I remember over 20 years ago reading an article claiming that Eric Smith said that he can hear the difference between Duracell and Energizer batteries in his pedals.
This is a great video, like all your videos. The one thing you forgot is "vertical grain" wood. Just turn a nice flat board on edge and glue up enough to get the thickness you need.
I don't think the cost is just about the waste. Its also more work. It would be interesting to see how much each of those factors contribute to the cost. As far as the impact to the player goes, I think a lot of that falls into the lore (and marketing hype) of guitars. Right along with "tone woods" and other such myths. Especially when necks have truss rods (and carbon reinforcement rods) I seriously doubt there is a meaningful structural difference.
If you can't hear the difference between basswood and mahogany solid guitar bodies, then you probably haven't owned enough guitars to know anything about neck construction and stability, either.
@@michaelcarey9359 Kind of antagonistic. Hopefully, you will mellow out when puberty hits. I've been playing for 50+ years and owned (far too) many guitars over the years. While you may notice some differences in "acoustic sound" (i.e. not playing through an amp) the whole "tone wood" thing is just crazy when you are plugged in. For example, the material of your pick and the angle you strike the strings with (or just using fingers instead of a pick) makes far more impact on the sound than the materials the guitar is made with. Pickups and scale length are pretty much it when it comes to defining the sound of an electric guitar played through an amp. I respect the whole "muse factor" where look and feel inspires different sorts of playing (or playing at all for that matter). But is not because of the type of wood. Its because you play differently.
@@warmoth I gotcha. I’m trying to build an HxH Jazzmaster with a hardtail. Attempting to balance it tonally as much as possible. Thinking a chambered mahogany body, quartersawn neck (maple or mahogany), 24.75” or 25.5” scale depending on those wood choices…a lot of factors to consider.
@@warmoth possibly a Chambered alder body, quartersawn maple neck (Gibson scale), rosewood board. My head math leads me to think it would be a slightly warmer/smoother version of Fender.
@@michaelcarey9359 trust me, been racking my brain about the solution. 250k pots, string saver saddles, etc. I prefer the playability of 25.5”. My Nash S63 is my favorite. I’ve had a guitar with SS frets before…they felt great but that shrill top end is intense.
Yes and no. A roasted maple neck IS more stable, so is a regular maple quatersawn neck. That being said, it's not impossible to make a roasted quatersawn neck, which in theory would be even more stable. Going even further, you could add an ebony fretboard, dual action truss rod and steel/graphite reinforcements to make it even more stable, but at that point you might as well get an aluminum neck
This is just my opinion, but in answer to your questions: yes, and yes. That being said, I still think that flat sawn necks are simply ugly to look at.
Yes, wood is 10 to 20 times stiffer along the grain than across the grain. So quarter sawn (actually "veritcal grain" would be more technically correct) will be much stiffer, i.e the neck won't deflect as much for a given sideways force on it. This is also very important for the top of a flat-top acoustic guitar. Stiffness falls off pretty fast as the angle drifts away from 90 degress. This angle is called "run out", and ideally you want zero. VG may also be less likely to twist, although there is debate about that. Some say if any piece of wood is properly dried it won't twist.
Flat saw guitar neck is not less stable, furniture does not have a truss rod. Especially with warmoth modern truss rod it's all the stability you need. My regular old maple neck with warmoth rod was still in tune after two years in storage, bo fancy quarter saw or roasting or anything like that
Any good luthier or maker of other wooden musical instruments can tell you that grain structure absolutely matters to how well the wood resonates, and quartersawn wood resonates best because of the orientation of the grain. All you have to do to test this is pick up a piece of wood, hold it about 22% of its length from one end, and tap it with your knuckle to hear it ring.
Was interesting to learn sonething new, then that guitar came on screen. Not so much a fan of the multi wood tops being produced. But that guitar stopped me dead. Ok. Self. Time you have a look. Well. Lie. I want to have it. Lie. HAVING A GAS ATTACK, I NEED IT.
Aaron, you're welcome to show off that Meadowhawk as much as you'd like because it truly is a beautiful guitar.
Great explanation.
i thought trees had circles the more circles the older the tree can u tell me witch tree has zigzags rab
I want to share my contradictory experience. I live in Tucson, Arizona. It's a dry desert here, but we have a massive Summer Monsoon season that lasts a month and shifts the humidity across the scale. This wrecks havoc on my guitar necks. I have ESP quarter sawn necks that need adjustment 2-3 times per year because of it.
I switched to playing Jackson Dinky's with Graphite Rod Re-inforcement. I have both a flat sawn X-Dinky model, and a Quartersawn MIJ Dinky (made in japan). I NEVER have to adjust these truss rods on these graphite reinforced necks at all through the year. They are rock solid stable because of it. It's a dream...
Because of that, I am resolved to NEVER buy another guitar without rod re-inforcement. Even quartersawn... For my location, it's just a no brainer.
I hope in the future that Warmoth would consider that condition and provide products to accommodate our needs here in places with massively shifting humidity throughout the year.
Yeah, I really wish Warmoth would do carbon fiber or graphite rods as an option. Schecter, Kiesel, and Charvel/Jackson all do it now.
What are the two species of wood in your neck?
If the relief changes as humidity changes, it's usually due to the difference in shrink rate of the two species. Ebony has a very high rate of shrink, so when you put an ebony fretboard on a maple neck, you get this problem. You'd be much better off with a rosewood fretboard, which is closer to the shrink rate of maple.
The CF rods won't fix this, by the way. The rods are too close to the bending axis of the neck to have much effect on bowing.
Quartersawn 5 ply roasted necks with graphite rods. Bam! That shit will never move homie.
I think for most guitarists on tour, a standard flat sawn is fine. If the neck moves between gigs, just adjust it.
@@gregholmberg2 Living in New England USA and I have to set up all guitars 2x a year. Quartersawn is minor, flatsawn takes more to tweak. Maple/maple strat necks. In the 1980's I learned quartersawn withstood better temp and humidity changes than anything else until I owned a Carvin with graphite reinforcement rods. I never had to mess with that neck and love that guitar still to this day!
I was told by a very famous premier neck maker you cut the neck blank down the middle and flip one end and glue it and that way it cannot bow because the two pieces will be fighting each other and cancel each other out!
man i smile everytime u say keep on picking :)
I have bought probably 14 aftermarket necks, only 1 of them is quartersawn. That neck is the brightest piece of wood I've ever encountered, it makes every finished guitar extremely bright. May just be a coincidence, but that's why I only have 1 quartersawn neck.
The Meadowhawk is amazing. I really wish you guys offered it to purchase instead of the limited run that was offered.
Perfect explanation especially at the end when you mentioned roasted maple. I didn’t see that option even though I knew it was a possibility. I sometimes travel from a dry climate to a wet and humid climate and for that reason alone it would be worth quarter sawn roasted maple. You guys bring a smile to my face when you cover custom guitar options. I like G&L guitars but taking it a step further building my own is frikken awesome. It’ll take awhile until I get to my build but at least there are hopes. Whether this is offered in super wide is the next step. Not even sure if I need a big ol’ plank o wood in my hand but research says yes, your big ass right hand needs cone shaped U, 48 mm. Help me Mr. Wizard. lol. Massive email sent. Chat later about this.
I find that my guitars with quartersawn necks have better tuning stability vs. my flatsawn-neck guitars. Great video.
If you live in a humid area, buy a quarter sawn neck. It will be the most resilient against twisting forces as well.
Great video! Thorough explanation! Thanks Aaron
My next build just gets more and more expensive...😖
Shijie quarter sawn roasted Canadian maple necks with thin poly finish are my favorite necks on their S and T models - the owner is a luthier with a deep love for them.
Love the little rectangles in the quarter sawn wood. My Dad's '56 Strat had those on the back and on the swoop of the headstock.
Aaron - I learn a great deal every time I watch your videos. I’ve built five Warmoth guitars and although I also have Heritage and PRS guitars….its the Warmoth guitars that come with me to every gig. Those Warmoth guitars just feel and sound perfect to me. There is also the pride I have in those guitars when other guitarist who come to my shows come up to me between sets to ask about the Warmoth guitars. Awesome work Warmoth!
By the way, the white guitar I’m playing in my icon picture is a Warmoth guitar.
Damn, I love learning stuff! Thank you!
Excellent information as usual
IMO, one of the benefits of a quartersawn neck is that it looks better to the eye, but the most important benefit is the increased rigidity and strength of a quartersawn neck. Simply said, a quartersawn neck won't flex as much during playing and is less likely to bend due to changes in climate.
Unless ye LIKE bending the neck itself to vibrato the sound a bit, then get the regular flatsawn necks which are easier to bend the wood. But the flip side is that it'll be more susceptible to bending from climatic changes too.
Me? Gimme quartersawn necks any day for the strength and quartersawn bodies for the looks under transparent finishes. Unless the body is getting solid opaque finishes, then any kind of wood cut is acceptable.
Great video. I like both flat and quarter for different reasons. I think that flat for guitars is more aesthetically pleasing with the more wavey and random look. For bass I like quarter as it always seems more stable and stiffer which a bass neck needs because of the longer length. The only thing I have noticed is that flat sawn really need perfectly sized pilot holes to avoid cracking the wood, especially with roasted maple. Also flat sawn seems to hold screws ever so slightly better.
Really cool video that. Honest and brilliantly explained 😎
Does the type of wood, cut etc effect the tone, probably in some way 🤷♂️ Can the average person tell that it does, probably not. Never break the bank to buy a guitar. Certainly never get into debt for one.
Unless it's a 1960 all original untouched fender jazz bass 😆
I had tried thin necks for years, but they seemed "flimsy" , or had the "bendiness" you described. Always wanted a wizard-type neck, saw them on Warmoth, and they had quartersawn... as well as Stainless frets.
That n3eck hasn't warped over a couple of years, and the frets are great.
I love quartersawn necks for the tuning stability, especially my necks which are three-piece maple with a quartersawn middle third. They are always in tune when I pick them up.
Interesting. I had an Ovation acoustic that I only noticed had a quartersawn when I found out what that was a few years ago, and the guitar is almost never out of tune. I had attributed it to the graphite nut and bridge, so I'll have to reconsider that conclusion.
I still have that guitar. It's a keeper.
I honestly really don't give two shits about this topic but I really like watching these videos and they are almost always informative in some way!
I’ve got a warmoth Quartersawn modern neck that is so stable.
It only needs a little adjustment every couple of years.
I have a quartersawn maple neck and roasted maple flatsawn neck, both from warmoth. I also get the feeling that the quartersawn neck feels much stiffer.
That’s the prettiest guitar I’ve ever seen !
Appreciate the video-I learned a lot.
Great information, thank you!!
Great video, Aaron! Very informative and great explanation.
I actually prefer the look of flat sawn necks.
Those wavy patterns are just lovely.
I bought a cheap Ibanez guitar a couple years ago that has crazy Birds Eye all over the neck. I was trying to find information about birdseye figuring online and one comment on a forum stated that Birds Eye is usually a result of flat sawn wood so likely a sign that a neck will be unstable
There isn’t much online I was able to find about Birds Eye figuring beyond that it’s generally considered a flaw but I guess guitarists and furniture buffs are into it
I’m curious if someone can give more info about Birds Eye and weather that impacts neck stability? (My guitar has been a little unstable during the drier winter months but it is still fairly new)
The birds eye pattern comes from the little shoots from the edge of the tree, so to get the most birdseye it has to be flat sawn. if you had QS wood the birds eye would only be on one edge and run acorss the board. (it would look like lines rather than dots) Once dried, it's plenty stable enough for a guitar neck with a truss rod though.
One of the best ways to understand quarter sawn wood is to focus on the fact that quarter sawn will yield more waste, but what you actually get out of it is a higher quality more rigid piece of lumber.
I just watched the video again and I'm going to also comment on what Aaron said about the wood looking nice with the flecks... for the little design in the grain that shows up with quarter sawn. I bought a nice quarter sawn bird's eye Telecaster neck from warm up and it indeed has those characteristics. In fact, when I first took it out of the box I was absolutely stunned at how bright the wood was. It almost looked like I was holding an LED light. And I'm not even joking. When I shone the light on it it was magical. One of the best necks I've got. Worth the money.
10:27 Word around the campfire is that it is called a "worm."
ALWAYS the best info...
Would installing carbonfiber rods in a flatsawn neck give it the strength of a quertersawn neck?
Beauty of a guitar !!
I've got a quartersawn neck on order for my Hentor Sportscaster tribute build! :D
Seems like it would make the most difference on maple neck. Guitars with a separate fret board probably don't have the same type of stability problems.
"Log sawing machine." Whoa, Aaron let's not get so technical here.
What about longevity? Would a quarter sawn neck be in better shape after 30 years than a flat sawn?
Aaron I know that alder bodies are fairly 'neutral' and swamp ash is a tiny bit scooped in comparison with a quicker response and more high end snap (at least that's my experience)...can you tell me where a mahogany body with a maple veneer/top would sit compared to the other two?...thanks and your videos are fantastic!
Yes, in acoustic guitars. Zero effect in electric instruments
@@ileutur6863maybe to your ears,but not many of ours
My only beef with flatsawn necks, specifically with my #1 that is a PRS, is that it is very sensitive to pitch changes when holding the neck. Any movement forward or backwards can affect pitch. Some people like this, especially for modulating lead lines, but I find it to detrimental for high-gain, heavy riffing.
If mahogany Gibson necks were quartersawn there would be a lot less headstock breaks. Maple grain structure doesn't have the same problems. I really like the 3 piece maple necks where the middle piece is from the same block but its turned 90 degrees. Those seem indestructible.
Aaron - can you please tell me how to contact someone about my account erroneously getting flagged as spam on the unofficial warmoth forum. I've made 3 posts there, all on topic and no spam. I can't figure out how to contact anyone to get this corrected.
It's more than just quarter sawn that makes a piece of wood desirable. It's also the compactness of the grain and the straightness of that grain. Remember, each line of grain represents one year of growth of the tree. So a tree that grows really fast has wide spaces between the grain lines. I don't know why anyone would use anything but QS wood on a guitar neck. It's a musical instrument not a bench. Wouldn't you have a higher standard of quality for an elevated application like a guitar neck? Believe it or not I've seen Squier's on the wall at GC with QS necks so it pays to know something about wood when looking at guitars.
Great video man! I’ve purchased a handful of rosewood shaft necks from you guys and I’m wondering if most of those are Infact quarter sawn, or if I just got lucky. On two of them I paid the up charge and my first one was I purchased just happened to be quarter sawn as well. They all play and feel great and are very stable as well, just curious.
Thanks 🤙
Arron , a couple weeks ago you we’re going to have some bodies with exotic tops for sale , did I miss the sale ?
Have you looked at our website today? ;) It's on!
Like quarter sawn because it vibrates in the hands. From the player perspective it is just an added feel or connection to the instrument. As far as sounding better. Think the average listener wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The typical historically correct fender would probably be a flat sawn body and a near flat sawn neck. A complete mystery why some guitars sound good? Have an unassuming 83 telecaster and It sounds great. But put that neck on another body and it isn't that great? Quarter sawn neck on a semi hollow body or an acoustic guitar is interesting because there is a lot of vibration going on to begin with. A quarter sawn neck just adds to the vibrations. Bought a quarter sawn body so I thought it would be interesting to put a quarter sawn neck on it. That is one stiff guitar. Lol. Now I have changed my build philosophy and have gone back to flat sawn bodies. Necks that are halfway between quarter and flat (30°-60° angle) are great necks and you don't have to pay quarter sawn price. Got one by chance and it is one of my favorite necks. Like the best of both worlds.? Other than that it is a complete crap shoot in my humble opinion. On finding a body and a neck that work well together. If they don't work together ill just throw another neck on and see what happens. Like musical chairs with necks and bodies. When it sounds feels good. Ill leave it alone. For a long time. Quite possibly forever.
Your comment makes a whole lot of sense. I’ve had guitars that just sounded kind of dead not plugged in and then I’d do a neck swap and for whatever reason it became considerably more resonant. I’d be asking myself if it’s just my imagination even, but lo and behold it was. And also visa versa with it becoming less resonant as well.
Sometimes I'll change the fretboard wood. Ebony, maple rosewood all bring something different to the mix. Just depends if the body needs brightening up or warming up.
@@geraldponce8336 For me, I'll just go with an Ebony board if given the choice ( either for brightness or not ), I just love the feel of it when it's sanded smoothly, it's like glass. Some folks don't care for that feeling too but eh... different strokes for different folks too :)
Ebony is awesome, brightest of the bunch. Have a 9 lbs strat with a ebony fretboard. An mertlewood acoustic and a warmoth neck that I am still looking for a body for.
Now I know!
Can one get bass necks 1/4 sawn?
Quarter-sawn is so much stiffer that it doesn't need carbon fiber stiffening bars. I have 1 Mighty Mite neck like that, and I haven't adjusted the truss rod since I bought it in 1980. My other guitars all need seasonal tweaks.
Can warmoth make mounting hole like your Meadowhawk for neck and body now?
Good and useful
i'm really curious now about how roasted flatsawn necks compare to non-roasted quartersawn necks :D
I remember over 20 years ago reading an article claiming that Eric Smith said that he can hear the difference between Duracell and Energizer batteries in his pedals.
If anyone can hear a tonal difference between flat and quarter sawn necks then I’ll lick an escalator hand-rail.
Handicapped hand rail in a gas station bathroom.
This is a great video, like all your videos. The one thing you forgot is "vertical grain" wood. Just turn a nice flat board on edge and glue up enough to get the thickness you need.
Sooooooo when's the next time we'll have the opportunity to buy a Meadowhawk? (=
We have another limited run in the works. They are insanely awesome and will probably go in minutes...so be ready!!
Love my quartersawn but not as much as my straight 12 SRV roasted maple
My 2 cents are people have been playing flat sawn Fenders for decades and most of those are still perfectly good playing necks today.
You're 100% correct here. However, the Fender necks that do warp and get wonky are most likely flat sawn and have crooked grain structures.
Survivor bias
Man.,I so agree....👍
I don't think the cost is just about the waste. Its also more work. It would be interesting to see how much each of those factors contribute to the cost. As far as the impact to the player goes, I think a lot of that falls into the lore (and marketing hype) of guitars. Right along with "tone woods" and other such myths. Especially when necks have truss rods (and carbon reinforcement rods) I seriously doubt there is a meaningful structural difference.
If you can't hear the difference between basswood and mahogany solid guitar bodies, then you probably haven't owned enough guitars to know anything about neck construction and stability, either.
@@michaelcarey9359 Kind of antagonistic. Hopefully, you will mellow out when puberty hits. I've been playing for 50+ years and owned (far too) many guitars over the years. While you may notice some differences in "acoustic sound" (i.e. not playing through an amp) the whole "tone wood" thing is just crazy when you are plugged in. For example, the material of your pick and the angle you strike the strings with (or just using fingers instead of a pick) makes far more impact on the sound than the materials the guitar is made with. Pickups and scale length are pretty much it when it comes to defining the sound of an electric guitar played through an amp. I respect the whole "muse factor" where look and feel inspires different sorts of playing (or playing at all for that matter). But is not because of the type of wood. Its because you play differently.
When will Warmoth offer quartersawn roasted flame maple
No, no... quartersawn roasted birdseye flame maple reclaimed from historic buildings.
Every time I visit the Warmoth site for an order, I'm torn between quartersawn for maximum stability and flame maple for the looks 😂
Once in a while, if you browse the gallery you can find a quarter sawn neck with significant flame.
Can we still order quarter sawn mahogany from Warmoth? I’m going to call the service group anyways but just curious.
If we have it available when you call, yes. But that isn't always the case.
@@warmoth I gotcha. I’m trying to build an HxH Jazzmaster with a hardtail. Attempting to balance it tonally as much as possible. Thinking a chambered mahogany body, quartersawn neck (maple or mahogany), 24.75” or 25.5” scale depending on those wood choices…a lot of factors to consider.
@@warmoth possibly a Chambered alder body, quartersawn maple neck (Gibson scale), rosewood board. My head math leads me to think it would be a slightly warmer/smoother version of Fender.
@@sG_Chimera It would be a de-twanged version of a Fender. You weould lose that high end from the added tension in the longer scale.
@@michaelcarey9359 trust me, been racking my brain about the solution. 250k pots, string saver saddles, etc. I prefer the playability of 25.5”. My Nash S63 is my favorite. I’ve had a guitar with SS frets before…they felt great but that shrill top end is intense.
Doesn't roasting the neck add to its stability?
Does that negate the quartersawn advantage?
Yes and no. A roasted maple neck IS more stable, so is a regular maple quatersawn neck.
That being said, it's not impossible to make a roasted quatersawn neck, which in theory would be even more stable.
Going even further, you could add an ebony fretboard, dual action truss rod and steel/graphite reinforcements to make it even more stable, but at that point you might as well get an aluminum neck
This is just my opinion, but in answer to your questions: yes, and yes. That being said, I still think that flat sawn necks are simply ugly to look at.
Release Portuguese subtitles in videos.
Yes, wood is 10 to 20 times stiffer along the grain than across the grain. So quarter sawn (actually "veritcal grain" would be more technically correct) will be much stiffer, i.e the neck won't deflect as much for a given sideways force on it.
This is also very important for the top of a flat-top acoustic guitar. Stiffness falls off pretty fast as the angle drifts away from 90 degress. This angle is called "run out", and ideally you want zero.
VG may also be less likely to twist, although there is debate about that. Some say if any piece of wood is properly dried it won't twist.
If you put your ear up to a quartersawn neck you can actually hear the "resonance".....especially in Dminor....the saddest key.
Flat saw guitar neck is not less stable, furniture does not have a truss rod. Especially with warmoth modern truss rod it's all the stability you need. My regular old maple neck with warmoth rod was still in tune after two years in storage, bo fancy quarter saw or roasting or anything like that
Ray Flecking.
Any good luthier or maker of other wooden musical instruments can tell you that grain structure absolutely matters to how well the wood resonates, and quartersawn wood resonates best because of the orientation of the grain. All you have to do to test this is pick up a piece of wood, hold it about 22% of its length from one end, and tap it with your knuckle to hear it ring.
Toooaaaan Wud
I wrote a huge comment and decided to delete it in favour of a short and sweet one. Grain is not the same as growth ring alignment. Not even close!
Was interesting to learn sonething new, then that guitar came on screen. Not so much a fan of the multi wood tops being produced. But that guitar stopped me dead. Ok. Self. Time you have a look. Well. Lie. I want to have it. Lie. HAVING A GAS ATTACK, I NEED IT.
We have about 15 more of those Meadowhawk body/neck/hardware sets. If you called in we *may* be able to make it happen for you.
Second!!
I’m embarrassed to admit that I used to think the word was “Quarterswan” 🦢
That's funny. Don't be hard on yourself, I can relate.That moment when you realize you've had it wrong, but hell, it didn't really matter so screw it.
Well swans 🦢 do have long necks! Lol
"Quarterswan." Well, there's your next band name right there.
It probably is pronounced that way up in New England area
I might have just taken that to the grave once I learned what it means 😅