For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
Thank you for saying that. It's been a difficult few months and just when I think he's learned better behaviors, then he starts something else. I'm exhausted.
This can work for low reaction or low prey drive dogs. But if they really have that drive they will ignore food and stay locked on, and sometimesyou cant avoidthe trigger. Exposing and socializing slowly so they build confidence and trust in the handler, is the best way for both to safe.
I have a husky he is not food orientated at all and hes an intact male used to be fine with all dogs but since being floored by rottweilers, staffies, and an Akita, hes not taking his eyes off a large approaching dog for anything and i dont either.
Yeah might need a professional trainer in. With your dog being entire and now matured and with a bad experience you need some professional help probably
Every video I can find on reactive dog training.. is for food driven dogs.. when my dog reacts I could have a steak in my hand and all she wants to do is attack whatever person/dog is in front of her!
As an R+ dog trainer 20+ yrs, thank you for the correct info to the general public! Good work, il recommend your channel after watching your other videos
In case you need help still, here I break it down when you have 2 dogs (it's going to be a series of videos but the idea is the same). ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
I have a reactive Podenca and I have been using the crossing the street and blocking techniques without knowing this was the right thing to do! Thanks for the extra tips!
Excellent video, as a trainer, I’m pleased you covered to need for the dog to see you as being in control by not fussing and giving human comfort to a canine who comprehends that action so very differently. Lennox is a beautiful boy, what is his breeding. 🌹❤️
Oh thank you!! Yes the over fussing just makes it worse, but its in our human nature to think its helpful. Lenyx is a american stafford x english stafford. ☺️
If you still need some help this one would probably give you some good starting points too: How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success. ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
My dog is adopted. He’s usually good with people and dogs, but sometimes we just can’t stop his reactivity, we live in a building, it’s difficult when you’re stepping out the elevator to go out and there are dogs just in front of it coming in. We just keep trying our best
Wow, you get a lot of haters commenting. I'd like to see what they would recommend for a similar scenario! Just advising to get a professional dog trainer's help is not sufficient.
Hope things are going well for you! If extra help is needed this one may be helpful; How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success. ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
I have brought my very reactive dog into yards, and/or gave her a distraction snack. She is very strong, and people seem to understand in my neighborhood, so they actually cross the street. She was used for breeding (probably for a dog fighting ring), so I am sure she thinks she is doing the right thing by trying to attack. She is a rescue, and has learned a lot. ❤
What are your thoughts on dogs that bold out of their homes, like if the door gets opened. And you are walking g your dog and it charges your dog. I have this happen so much in the neighborhood I’m in. Or loose dogs or a kid walking. A pit bull. I don’t walk my dogs anymore because it’s so frequent I can’t relax.
That must be horrible. I cant say that happens regularly in my area. I carry a doggy dont device on me to help with dogs rushing. This video may help: What to do when off leash dog comes at you (Avoid getting attacked!) ua-cam.com/video/gOYgyt6vohY/v-deo.html
These are excellent tips. My issue is I aged faster than my Great Dane. I no longer have the strength - if another dog is pulling on their lead to get to my dog, his solution is to show no fear and charges. I know I'm going down (and at my age, that could be serious) - so I just let go. I'm not strong enough - or agile enough anymore - to successfully block him. However, during training classes - like what you demonstrated - he's perfect (because there are no chargers or those pulling on the lead). That's not the real world, unfortunately.
@@thecompletecanine Yes - I do use a halti. :-) He can slip out of it, in no time flat once he sees 'his quarry' (and I put it on tighter than it probably should be - but any looser and I have zero chance of holding him). On walks, he's perfect, until another dog looks like it wants to 'greet' him. I have tried every collar available - including a prong. He is so fast and strong - once he bolts, there is no stopping. He goes through the split second of discomfort - knowing it will be worth it. :-) He was fine until the day he found out he was stronger than me - at about 2 years old. Most would consider him 'aggressive' but I know him - he is actually terrified of other dogs and trying to show them to 'not mess with me'. I thought I would bring him to daycare to get him accustomed to other dogs so he would see he has nothing to worry about; he hid in the corner, avoiding all dogs and the staff for the entire 4 hours (I watched him on their cams). I brought him there for 6 weeks, no change, except that he became terrified to go into the car. I would gladly try a board and train, but after seeing how terrified he became of day-care (and none of the dogs were even the slightest bit pushy towards him - they put him in the 'friendly dog' group) and that it took almost a year to get him comfortable going for a car-ride after that, I think it would destroy him. Even now, if he is in the car and we are on the same road that took him to day care - he looks terrified and shakes.
@@blujeans9462get a trainer to show you how to use a prong collar you won't look back much kinder to dog then all these flat collars and halts good luck
I'm a dog walker and I do all these things. I came up w/ them on my own . It just seemed like common sense to me. People call me a dog whisperer but i don't think i am. I just put myself in the dogs shoes.
Did you also 'notice' that nearly no dog owner ever takes all of a class to completion or that nearly all trainers and class takers are women? I did because I took all level of class and CGC classes with pro trainers.
@@airgunsanonymouslesslethal1904 I think a lot of owners use a dog walker in the hopes their dog behavior improves when they walk them themselves. It just doesn't transfer that way.
I think number four should've been number one, so I'll be looking for the video on that. I think everyone should walk their dogs the same way and direction that they drive; stay on the same side you drive on, know who has the right of way, and so on. These are okay for continuing training. Signed, New Subscriber ✌️
Yes I think you're right. I was considering moving it around because it is the most important tip. Maybe I will edit it and re-upload (if that's possible) and change those around) and thanks for subscribing!
Where I live, and there are no sidewalks, the rule is that a person on foot walked FACING oncoming traffic. That way you can easily see any vehicle coming close to you and they can see you. So, the opposite of the side you would be on if you were driving.
@carolynmvc yeah, I know what you mean, but I meant the two people on the sidewalk; they should be on the same side of the sidewalk that they would drive on the road. ✌️
Mine…. Barks at cyclists, scooters …even when they’re far far away :/ any ideas how I can help him with this? Cuz he is so loud and he hear/sees them, he’d bark and even pull on the lead, stand on his two legs… just so embarrassing 😭😭😭😭😭
Yeah definitely lots to work on. I would say you can get more tips here on how to work on that. Your dog will need some desensitisation and potentially a correction. You see more of that here: ua-cam.com/play/PLurioein2MULChRX5u1z4pTLxedvQD9Sz.html&si=Au_6n4CJtNOnsKqn
I live in the UK with some really narrow pavements so can be a squeeze getting by other people with dogs which makes your methods tricky. My Romanian rescue (ex street dog) is totally fine off leash with other dogs and only reacts on leash but not always with all dogs, though most.
What about when your dog is freaking out pulling and no matter what you do she is focused on the other dog? I have a foster dog that doesn’t like other dogs except my own dog which is weird.
How much work have you done with the foster away from dogs? Building engagement, loose leash walking and practising what to do if they see a trigger? At a guess I would say you need to do more work away from dogs before slowly reintroducing them. Id start here: ua-cam.com/video/Zkr8WMfdef0/v-deo.html
Dropping treats seems like rewarding them for their reactive behavior. My dog goes so crazy when she sees another dog, even on the opposite side of the street, there's no calming her down. If i get between them, she just struggles to get around me. We've been working on this for three years!
If you time it well its more about creating a different association when they see another dog. I would suggest starting here instead of this video. The most important thing is getting lots of good reps in when your dog is still able to manage their emotions.. before we move to dogs that randomly appear and are harder to manage. ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
My puppy is the same way and this video suggests good ways to AVOID the problem. But I don't see where it deals with the underlying issue head-on. In my case - and perhaps yours too, from the sound of it - I found good info searching under "leash-frustration reactivity". Reactivity arises from different temperament sources, and it is important to first identify what your dog's motivation is: stress, aggression, or excessive friendliness.
@@strepto77 Avoidance is part of your reactivity training though. I have linked in the description and the pinned comments more detailed videos that will help and address the problem 'head on'. For example: ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html Or: ua-cam.com/video/_gYZmul8YB4/v-deo.html
Yeah. I'm my dog's case, she seems to want to attack! She actually did attach one time when I supposedly let her get too close. She matched on to the much smaller dog's back of it's neck, and would not let go. Being a rescue, I'm assuming she was attacked on the street. @@strepto77
Thank you for the video. In some situations i can certainly use the strategies you provided. But what do you do when my dog reacts to every single loud sound close by or far away? If he sees something that only resembles a skateboard, he wants to go home. It's the sound that scares him, because he can't even see the skateboarder yet, only far, far away. So now, he often refuses to walk in places where he has ever seen a skateboarder. I tried giving him treats when this happens but he is so fixated on the sound that he can't focus on anything else? Should I bring out a skateboard and try to make him get comfortable with it ?
Yep you will have to actually work oj desensitising. I wrote this up for a client before it may he helpful to you. Break everything down into small steps. Every session restart at a previous step so he will be successful first. For example: Skateboard/things that move such as scooters. - Just having the skateboard out standing still - Having the skate board move a tiny bit (like 10 cm back and forth - Increase the distance the skateboard is moving by a bit (say half a meter back and forth) - Increase again to a meter - Have someone lift the skateboard up and down - Have someone SIT on the skateboard - no moving - Have someone STAND on the skateboard no moving - Have someone wiggle on the skateboard (sitting) - Have someone wiggle on the skateboard (standing) - Have someone move half a meter (sitting) - Have someone move half a meter (standing) - Roll the skateboard a few meters (no one on it) Slowly - Roll the skateboard a few meters (fast) - Roll the skateboard a few meters with someone on it (but slooooowly) - Roll the skateboard a few meters with someone on it FAST - Roll the skateboard a fair distance without someone. Slow & Fast - Roll the skateboard a fair distance with someone Slow & Fast Practise all of these with the claiming exercise we did but also with a place command or a sit / or eye contact with you. The point is that he gets bored and uninterested.
I have a shelter English Pointer...the short eared variety with a pit in the family...but a bird dog through and through. My yard is full of game birds and squirrels...around us are busy streets. I have to put him on a 20' tether and he has adjusted well. A hunting dog is superman....0 to 50 mph in a second and leaps tall fences in a single bound. The shelter let me have him for free . I'm planning to rescue a sweet old surrendered dog his size for good influence and company. The one I am looking at is 10 yr. old Aussie shepherd surrendered at Christmas...he's heartbroken but healthy. Don't start me cussing such people. I think they will get on because both are very gentle and lonely who play well with others.
I would like to see a video on how to walk a reactive dog past a reactive dog behind a fence, especially on a narrow road with a number of reactive dogs in yards. I live in a neighborhood like that. Should I just not walk him in my neighborhood? Usually, I can get him past one or two dogs barking at him on one side of the road but if another dog starts barking on the opposite side where we are walking, he flips out.
Oh i can probably take a video of that at some stage but there is just dogs behind fences on one side. I just need to see if I can borrow a reactive dog. I must say though, walking a difficult route can be really beneficial if thats less stressful for everyone. My dogs have to walk past our neighbors yapyaps and they go off every single time making my dogs react too. Maybe i can film that for you!
@@thecompletecanine yes, that would be great. I've worked hard with my do since he was a pup because I knew he would get really big some day. Kind of like working with foals early because you know it's going to be a horse someday. He's so good about everything else and no negativity reactivity with dogs on the trail. For some reason, being aggressively barked at makes him react with snarling, barking, hair up on his back. He'll even flip over after leaping in the air and lunging. That's a lot to control with a 90 lb dog.
i have a reactive german shephard, we live on a ranch with cows and goats and chickens and he’s fine with them most of the time but once the cows or goats are running, he starts wanting to go after them and he’s crying and whining and trying to jump the fence, he’s like that with new people too, we don’t take him out to walks around the neighborhood because he’s already reactive and there’s lose dogs everywhere
What if my dog is reactive due to excitement? Crossing the road, scatter feeding (even with high value treats), body blocking just isn’t possible because of how bad her reactivity is. I’m finding it incredibly difficult to manage or even find any sort of helpful resources for this type of reactivity
Hey! Very valid question. So your dog sounds like jts an impulse control issue. I would say this video answers and shows the majority of that: ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html Its working in situations where your dog can manage it and building new habits (including management skills) and then slowly adding distractions.
@@thecompletecanine I’ve just watched the video and it seems very useful, thank you! Though I do have an additional question about selectivity, my dog gets more reactive when she sees collies and golden retrievers, which I think is due to over socialisation with these specific breeds. She’s only ever had good experiences with both of these breeds so I don’t think it’s any sort of aggression or fear. Is there anything more I need to do besides impulse control? (I’m also unsure if dogs are able to differentiate between breeds but I’ve noticed how much her reactivity sky rockets once she spots them)
@@Iopid Yep selectivity is pretty normal. For example German Shepherds and black labs are a hard NO for my staffy. It can be because Collies are quite intense (herding/staring) and Golden Retrievers can be a bit 'much' and overly friendly/not reading the calm down signs that well.
Regarding dropping treats on the ground (?) I don’t want my dog thinking it’s ok to eat stuff on the ground while we walk. I have a very young dog who likes to eat every yucky thing on the ground or in the grass so NO on dropping treats here. Probably good idea for a lot of dogs though. Good video.
In the last example, passing between 2 dogs and changing sides, what do you do if those dogs are barking and lunging rather than being quiet and calm???
If those 2 dogs were also super reactive and I would have a reactive dog myself id probably turn around and wait for them to pass one by one up on a driveway. Or if I have good control of my dog I would use a combo of body blocking and the look command. But realistically I rarely ever have that happen. I scan ahead a lot and do avoid situations if I can because no need to make everyones life harder.
Great common sense tips for the uneducated dog. A dog that has been properly leash trained and is concentrating on a task such as heel can't be reactive. They simply cannot think of two things at once. Properly leash training a dog at home before going out in the world will help immensely.
This one may give you some more insight as well How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success. ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
@@thecompletecanine I’ll keep trying that. Hilariously I adopted him over a year ago and walk him 2-3 times a day doing similar drills most of the walk. 🙄
I was really hoping to find something here to help my dog, unfortunately I have tried all of this and more and nothing seems to work. It’s hard to figure out because he’s selectively reactive to only some dogs, so I never know when it’s going to happen. I only walk him now super early in the morning and late at night, which isn’t ideal in the winter😢
@@samiam8443 hey Sam, I made a more detailed video that may be of more use for you. It's important to find a method that works for you, practise all skills without triggers first and then start adding.. and sticking to it. I hope this one helps you more: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
Nut what about for people like me where my dofs drive when they see another dog is two intense for food or toys to get there attention and ur on a cycle track where u can't actually get off to let people past ?
Then id suggest you start here: ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html Making sure you get lots of reps in where your dog is able to manage themselves and then slowly build up the difficulty. If your dog cant do it when its “easy”, then they can definitely not do it when its “hard”.
My dog lunges and nips but it's after greeting nicely and as they are leaving. He dosnt bark. He is into chasing birds so he likes when things run away from him to chase, I think that's what he's doing pretending it's a chase game as they leave
My dog generally walks without pulling. She loves sniffing during the walks. But... even when whatever scares her is about 100 meters away, as soon as she hears of sees it, she will turn towards it, stare at it and start barking and lunging like crazy. I've tried all you show, but I'm facing several problems at that point. 1. She will also turn and stare if it is someone or something she likes. The stare will turn into lunging with enthousiasm. It's very hard to tell the outcome of her staring, unless I know for sure she likes who or what is approaching. 2. She can be scared of everyone who walks towards her... but there are men and women that she doesn't respond to. When they carry something, I know she'll probably be triggered, as when they push or pull something. But otherwise there's no telling how she will respond. Do I really want her to avoid meeting every person we encounter? 3. Even when I decide up front that it is a potential scaring something and cross the street, or turn a corner, she will still try to turn around, lunge and bark as long as what scares her is in sight. 4. She is very small, about 35 cm high. And she is incredibly quick and flexible. There's no way I can block her with my legs. No matter how short I hold the leash. It even happends that I accidently lift her (she wears a harness, no collar) in my efforts to block her or turn her away. She's that wild with a lot of encounters. Even at large distances. The base of her reaction is fear, but the way she reacts is 98% of the time incredibly agressive. To a point that I know that if she wouldn't be on leash, she would actually attack. Only every now and then she will turn away in stead of lunge. I can't figure out if she's simply not interested or too scared to even lunge... I believe there is not one way that works for all dogs. I believe one must see the dog and the owner on a walk to be able to think of a strategy for that particular couple. Sadly enough, after over 2 years of owning her, I still haven't found a solution.
Oh I agree with you. From your description the first thing I would do is move her onto a collar and out of the harness so you get more control. And then its a matter of keep walking when she starts the staring. Potentially she needs an additional correction that does work (followed up by rewards for the right behaviour) The getting in front of your dog requires a bit of practise when there is no triggers.
@@thecompletecanine I had her on collar shortly afte she came to us. But when she lunges and barks, she pulls on the leash so hard that it sound like she's choking herself. Often she coughs heavily and weird afterwards, a very disturbing sound. Like a cat that's coughing up a hairball, but much louder. That's why I changed back to a harness. Should I really go back to a collar? I try to keep walking, but most times I will end up dragging her behind me. If she's in that state of mind, she doesn't react to short, sharp pulls. And since she's so small and agile, it's almost impossible to block her view. Even if the 'danger' turns a corner and out of sight, she will keep staring and occassionally bark for 10-20 seconds, as to make sure it won't come back. And when we finally start walking again, she will still look back every few steps. What kind of correction do you have in mind? I've tried short, sharp pulls, I've tried to keep walking even when that meant I had to drag her away, I've tried distracting her, I've tried short sharp voicecommands... The thing she responds best to, is the one thing I don't want to use: anger.
Hey, I thought maybe you like this video. In the end of it I talk a lot about mindset and calming signals which may be some more info that you would like to help your dog. :) ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
Wonderful but your dog if Far from reactive. I have owed 3 gsd dogs plus have adoped 7 mixed breeds during my life time. Recently adoped a dog from Texas rescue. Husky shepherd mix, very loving and loves everyone including children. She is 2. My BIG problem is she screams cries standing up in street lunging trying to get to other dogs in a fanatic way. Can't have her approach any dog like that. Nothing stops her. She's completely trained in the house takes treats and is amazing in every way. EXCEPT out on the street. She looks for dogs. Will Not take treats even when I throw them on the ground. We do avoid dogs and turn about as soon as I see one to prevent her from going nuts. Seriously people can hear her a mile away screams and cries LOUD. Use long leads for recall and works well in my yard. Help help help. What can I do. She's emotionally distracted. Thoughts please?
Our dog freeze, lays down until the other dog comes closer and will attack!! Looks anxiety. Yes we always try to ignore this, but our dog doesnt like to be sniffed and will attack the other dog. She is a 3.5 labrador, this is changed really when she got spayed.
@@renefloor5348 your perspective of what 'dog social' is, needs to change. For her socialising might mean going for a walk together with another dog she knows. Hanging out at a cafe. Low energy activities until she trusts the dogs to not be in her face and over the top. There is ZERO value in dogs meeting on the street on leash. If you never see that person again, then what was the point of the meet & greet? There is always still work to do that she becomes more relaxed around other dogs - but at the moment shes saying 'i don't want to meet them' so why force it?
She is never been attacked by any dog, but for a reason she show fear or anxiety when a dog approach her even from a distance. Problem is, there are dogs everywhere and I aim to walk her at places where no dogs are but its not always possible.
My dog is triggered by the dogs that live across the street just chilling in their own yard. He’ll start barking a lot, pacing and getting up on the fence (chain link) . He starts panting real fast too and even has a lot of saliva (foam)coming out of his mouth. He’s reactive even inside the house when he can sense them. Starts barking and whining and scratching at the door.
Yikes that sounds like an unhealthy obsession. Id def get a trainer in for that as this is quite specific but the first thing is not letting him have (much) access to the fence where he can see the others/start blocking off, a solid recall and finding a correction to snap him out of that behavior.
You have to work with the reactive dog separately for some time first and then slowly reintroduce together again. I explain that here: ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
I like all your methods, but the blocking. For my dog, blocking is like trapping him. I need to leave him free to see and keep an eye on the trigger, but I need to distract and break his stare with treats or commands. I'm always grateful for a car parked on the side of the road that blocks his vision. I also find that keeping his leash a little slack, if possible, even if he pulls helps him feel free to control the situation rather than feel trapped and leash aggressive.
Thank you for that link and video. It all makes sense. I will have to stick with my dog being unique. But you have a lot of good points that I should work on. Thank you
It would be helpful to demonstrate with actual reactive dogs with their triggers around. All those dogs are calm. Also, judging from her emphasis about making a dog sit while something scary is approaching, I guess she is talking specifically about FEAR reactive dogs.
The dogs were reactive. That snippet is right at the end. In general its useless to make a dog sit. If its fearful it is, but if overexcited and still lunging/barking a sit isnt going to get you much success either.
@@thecompletecanine Oh, that was reactive? 😅😂. Sorry, just making a bit of fun coz my dog, an 80 lb Cane corso is very reactive, doesn't even bark, just grumbles as she lunges towards dogs, even if they're still far away. She even slams through our front door and charges, huffing & puffing, to the gate when dogs pass by our house. She goes from zero to 100. Somehow, because of the intensity of her reactivity, I don't think that what I've seen here would be applicable to her.
@@dianadelcastillo1896 Yeah for that owner that's reactive. :) I think if you own a Cane Corso you've got your work cut out for you and you're probably best off with an in person trainer than youtube videos.
@@thecompletecanine thank you! Ive got a 7 months old puppy from the shelter and he looks just like your dog 😍 face, colors -event white tail tip 😅 we are in Poland 😉 just starting „the training” too 🙃
This lady today had her dogs tightly leashed and they were whining the entire time. My dogs were well ahead (more than 20m) and she still did this. It was unpleasant for all of us. This was on a path so we couldn't avoid them.
@@namedropper126 probably would've been nice if you would've leashed your dogs if you could tell the lady was struggling with her dogs. Especially if your dogs were so far ahead.
In nearly all USA areas, a dog is your property under the laws and you are not responsible for another person and their dog... Ignore them both. It is NOT your problem to fix.
@thecompletecanine well, there are not many places to go off lead near my home. If you look at it another way, you might say that the other person could have chosen a spot that is not marked as an off leash area.
Is your dog an actual personal protection dog? Or do you think they are protecting you? I often recommend some of these: ua-cam.com/video/gOYgyt6vohY/v-deo.htmlsi=DIQTkOTwZOliBN1D
i disagree that you're not teaching your dog anything when petting it and telling it "you're ok" etc. you're teaching it to be more afraid. and you're instilling anxiety. the touch might become aversive.
Hey Trent, For many reactive dogs the goal isnt interacting with other dogs. Its being able to just pass them without conflict and anxiety. So for many dog owners this does help on their walks and is a good start to work on neutrality. These videos show a whole process of it (still working with these clients currently): ua-cam.com/play/PLurioein2MULChRX5u1z4pTLxedvQD9Sz.html&si=55s0gfSKJz4Yh92- If your goal is to have your reactive dog play and romp around with other dogs then this video (or my channel) is indeed not helpful for you.
Heya! I thought maybe this one will help you a bit better. It's all about prevention when you train with a reactive dog ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
My female Jack Russell loves to chase bicycles, skateboards, joggers etc anything that is traveling too quickly We live in a flat overlooking a cycle path that has been re-named a foot path so the council expects cyclists to dismount and walk. They have signs telling cyclists to do so which they understandably ignore. My dog can read so she polices the regulation by chasing and barking at the offenders she has a ball and we are entertained by her. It's better than TV.
Once you build enough trust up with your dog, where they know you can take care of the situation.. and youve practises these management skills for a while you see the reactivity comes down. There is no magic fix or skill for reactivity. And itll never be fully extinguished.
You might be working over treshold.. But here is one with non food motivated dogs where I dont use treats. ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.htmlsi=K141ndvLPL9rta4Q
I have done all of these suggestions. None of them work for my dog. Her reactivity distance is 4 blocks. Yes, 4 blocks. She sees a dog in the distance at all and she wants to get at it. She completely loses all sense of time and space...her only focus is on the other dog. She 'forgets' who I am. She is super aggressive toward other dogs when on leash. And if it is a female dog...she is 10x worse. Body blocking, does not matter to her. Treats do not matter to her. She focuses on the dog and on the dog only. She doesn't hear me, see me, or even seem to realize I'm there. She leaps in the air, twisting and turning, trying to free herself to get at the other dog....regardless of how short the leash is and whether I am between her and the other dog or not. She leaps, barks, gets so reactive she has hurt herself.
If your dogs reactivity is that bad, you will have to work with a trainer in person. Not a single youtube video is probably going to properly help you.. Working with a professional who can observe your dog and work through trial and error methods and work on your handling skills/relationship and building rock solid foundations with your dog when there is no triggers around is paramount before another dog js going to be introduced.
I know she said don’t make your dog sit 🙄 But at a distance that far I make my dog sit so she can watch the dog and see it’s not a threat. After some time doing this my dog will now let other dogs pass while sitting. Once past we carry on with our walk.
@@AGee2217 There is a difference making your dog sit and observe from a distance whilst triggers are passing.. then having a dog sit and restrained whilst they are actively being approached by their trigger.
for the past week i have been trying to find this 1 vid , i have this same problem and my dog reacts to Fedex and especially ups trucks set my black lab in to pissed off kill mode , every time im on a walk in the neighboorhood i run to my neighboor's drive way cause for God knows why my dog lunges at fedex , i never knew that i was doing the right thing by going to the drive way to avoid big scary fedex and ups , that i got to the point that i quit walking around the neighboorhood and started doing leash training work instead in front of my house up and down my street and also been blocking his view in which i also conciously/unconciously knew was the right thing to do from watching previous dog trainers
@@thecompletecanine i do to , im so glad i found your vid , that as a matter of fact i walk him up and down my street in front of the house to train him turn around , i have even been in the mid set of top of the street DZand so turn around and go to the bottom then turn around go to the top of the street top and bottom i always say DZ DZ , meaning danger zone that i noticed this training kinda starting to run its course except im no where near as ready for the public just yet i got 1 or 2 months til nice weather season here in georgia
@@thecompletecanine thank you for letting me know , quick update i have been going up and down my street then turning around and seems to be helping my dog learn to wlak nicely next to me
My dog has a very loud bark and it sounds like he is being attackt. All the tips you gave I already use. And they are working, but my dong now has a muzzle to get other people and dogs to give him some space. Due to the muzzle he cannot eat the scattered treats. How can I fix that?
You wont be able to do the scatter feed activity with a muzzle on. You could see if you can bring something with you thats easy to eat through a muzzle but it does lose the effect of having your dog searching for it and be distracted by it.
@@thecompletecanine also we live in a apartment building and just this evening we stepped out of the elevator and there were two man standing on both of the sides of the exit and my dog went ballistic. Then we went outside and there was a women passing by with her dog. So my dog had no time to adjust and he barked as a mad man. But he stopped quicker than a few months ago so that was great but just for his own health and wellness I took him back in as soon as possible. Do you know if the reactiveness is ever going to stop?
@@s.w.2162 I think if you live in such a high trigger environment its going to be tricky and you probably need help from a professional that can give you pointers specific to your situation. There is def some ways I would approach this but thats hard to advise without ever seeing you jn person.
@@thecompletecanine, thanks. I appreciate your material, and it’s always good to receive hints I may not entirely crazy, or otherwise brain-damaged 🤪 .
May need to look at extra factors. What is causing your dog to react, what is his treshold, what gear is he on, what situation does he react more.. do you need better food? Or equipment.. is your timing off. These are just small handhelds but a trainer in person would be able to pinpoint better what you may need help with.
Does this video make it clearer? I hope you find something that works for you but usually you have to stick to a method for quite some time to see results ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
#1 is simple to do and most untrained owners do NOT know enough to ignore your dog and leave it alone! I simply tell people with a leashed dog that my dog is in training ... not saying anything! Notice the woman has a voiceover person since she does NOT speak English!
Management is a solution for some people. I also mention in the description and even in the video these tips are not going to get rid of reactivity but will make walks easier.
exactly my point, your title is in actuality misleading and may be considered click bait because everything you presented has nothing to do with STOPPING dog reactivity. you dont even have a reactive dog to begin with.
@@roma8eight8 There is no magic solution to fix reactivity. Yes, in person I would add different strategies as well and layer in more desensitization and also introduce corrections for over-reacting. But this is youtube. Not a 1:1 training session where a client has paid for a session and I'm concentrating on THEM and not on video content. All of these strategies I use daily with reactive dogs though and it DOES reduce the way they respond to things because they learn alternative behaviour. If you expected a 'Press this button and your dogs reactivity will magically disappear' I wish you all the best finding it. Make sure to patent it and sell it for a lot of money because I'm sure everyone would want an instant fix.
@@thecompletecanine like i stated, your views vs your subscribers says it all, if there's some value to your content with the 19K view you have gotten on this post, you would have bumped up your subs, I just wanted you to think about that. But hey, whatever makes the most views right?
My state of Georgia has dog training kennels for non violent prison inmates...New Hope it's called. This is a great star on Georgia's crown in Heaven...yesterday was graduation day with the prisoners showing off their dogs, which live in the cells with them and are their pride and joy. I pray this will catch on all over the globe. My new hopeful adoption dog is there...see below.
More reactive dogs - samen methods here ua-cam.com/play/PLurioein2MULChRX5u1z4pTLxedvQD9Sz.html&si=eOdRw8YgClmMIbeQ And here ua-cam.com/video/sTM95qgu9GI/v-deo.htmlsi=4lSUTJMtJK9VCvcn And here: ua-cam.com/video/_3SZ9-oHo_U/v-deo.htmlsi=u2NeIW-5UU8g-XJv And here: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.htmlsi=yjZxOrr6FRecnnMc
I dont think this works for dogs with extreme reactivity. If crossing the street prevented this we would do it. Making the dog sit is sometimes the only way to control them. I agree with throwing the treats to distract but when you have a 70lb dog jumping lunging barking flipping out. Crossing the street is not an option. The idea is we are trying to get that behavior to seize....
Its management that will help reduce reactivity in the long run. But i did make a clearer video using similar techniques here if that helps: 4 ways to stop dog reactivity / leash reactivity on your walks ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
Only way it works for me is desensitization, I sit on the side of the street for half an hour per day. Whenever he lunge I stop him, now he is enjoying the activity, people and cars pass by him so many times that he doesn't care, but it takes times, for me around 2 weeks a huge improvement but not completely gone. Depending on how reactive they are may take 4 to 6 weeks.
@@HeliaandLucky yes I agree. I did this with our cats. It was the only way my dog could over come the aggression. We got trainers, they wanted to use commands...but it never worked. I put my cat in a cage and everyday for 10 minutes, 20 minutes etc, I would put the dog in the room. After a while the dog could care less about the cat. Now they all live together without issue.
Ive made a more extended version of this video as well. Maybe you will change your mind on that one. 4 Tips on how to stop leash reactivity with your dog ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
No offense, but where in your video is the "reactive" dog? Pretty hard to learn what to do when the dogs used all seem to be very calm!!! Why not use a really reactive dog in the lesson? Would sure be more helpful to the viewers!! 😂😂
They were reactive, i added a short video all the way on the end to show initial response to my dogs. Edit to add; its also not necessary to see a dog completely blow up. In my private sessions i always teach a client technique first without triggers, because if you cant do the techniques when nothing is going on.. you’re going to have a real hard time if there are triggers around. In this one you see some bigger responses: Reactive GSD Leo - Transformation ua-cam.com/video/cyK9Pyl0vCs/v-deo.html And 4 Week Transformation in Fierce ua-cam.com/video/5qcqNRra3UM/v-deo.html
@@thecompletecanine thank you for your additional video. Found it far more helpful, and informative. I loved the " there's no magic solution" quote ... that's perhaps sonething ALL of us trying to do right by our dogs need to remember 😁
Its going to help towards “fixing” behaviour. Particularly the body blocking. Ive got lots of other videos that show those exact methods working towards the end goal.
A useless batch of “advice” IMO….using a non-reactive dog to demonstrate your method is not helpful. I also tire of “trainers” who advise to ALWAYS have a pocket full of treats to distract a reactive dog, it doesn’t work with mine and I can’t always walk (or afford) with endless treats to induce a certain response. This is all not helpful for real world situations. Thanks anyway…
Partly yes. Part of the reason your dog may be reactive is because they lost trust in you handling the situation. So whilst you’re training in controlled situations that you can set up, moving away is going to be the solution in showing your dog you got their back. Here you can see it better. ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
@thecompletecanine won't that just reinforce if he barks or makes a fuss you will just avoid situations? I think that will make you look even more weak. Are you a positive only training? How about walking through it and show them there's nothing to be afraid of, or if they're doing it because they think they're the boss how about correcting that behaviour and letting them know that's not ok. Ps: my dog dont care about food outside and bribing him with food doesn't work. I've started just walking past dogs and praise him if he don't react and correct him if he does bark it's working but hard to get enough repetitions in. I've only had my dog 5 weeks he's 17 months old and had no training but I've taught him alot just gotta work on duration and distractions and I think he will be OK.
@@ashleymorris6636 I'm not a positive only trainer. I do correct a dog if necessary for over-reacting, but not until I know that I did everything to make him feel safe and to make sure that they know I've got their back. Like why walk through something you KNOW they find scary if you can just go around it and teach him its fine we work on it until you ARE ready to walk through it? If you see a group of poisonous snakes lying on the ground.. would you walk around them? Or right through them? By walking through it you are showing that you don't take your dogs fears seriously. I actually talk about the whole mindset about that here: ua-cam.com/video/W-JHtGSAnE0/v-deo.html
@thecompletecanine so how are you going to work through a problem ? As you just said you eventually address it. Why not address it straight away and get it out the way. Like say if your dog gets scared walking through your gate what you gonna do not walk it or baby it? No you'd just walk through and show it there's no problem. People tend to baby dogs too much. Why avoid a problem. My dog use to react every time I walk past a dog now its 8 times out of ten it's OK. Why would I avoid walking past dogs or hiding behind a car it's stupid. I keep finding dogs to walk past so he gets use to them. Avoiding problems is just delaying addressing the problems I don't get what's hard to understand about that.
@thecompletecanine and by going another way how are you teaching that its fine by going another way? If anything you maybe reinforcing it being scared because you're avoiding going that way.
In none of the four "solutions" have your taught your dog ANYTHING!! Avoidance, distraction, etc, Does NOT teach the dog ANYTHING!!! What you need to teach the dog is that you are in control, you are the leader, and it has nothing to fear. YOU are in control.
In the 4th method I literally say and do that. ☺️ Your body position and blocking your dog taking ownership of the walk teaches your dog about control and leadership. But id love to hear what you do? ☺️
hahhahhahaahah all bullshit none of this work when you have reactive dog, the only thing that works is teaching your dog to focus on you and stay calm. A good correction timing is the key to teach your dog that the behavior is not what you want and instead staying calm will be rewarded
Well you're not even walking your dog in the real world with actual other people or other dogs WTF? And you're not even demonstrating the situation with a strong reactive dog?
New video on how to train your reactive dog:
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
Love that message ❤️❤️
@@thecompletecanine we're all in this together for the betterment of the dogs. ❤️💕
@@SomeMinorDogTraining absolutely!!
@@thecompletecanine ❤️💕
Thank you for saying that. It's been a difficult few months and just when I think he's learned better behaviors, then he starts something else. I'm exhausted.
This can work for low reaction or low prey drive dogs. But if they really have that drive they will ignore food and stay locked on, and sometimesyou cant avoidthe trigger. Exposing and socializing slowly so they build confidence and trust in the handler, is the best way for both to safe.
Yep whatever works best for the dog. No one size fits all.
@@maryjacobson2372 Yes! This you're completely right! It's all about prevention before they even blow up!
I have a husky he is not food orientated at all and hes an intact male used to be fine with all dogs but since being floored by rottweilers, staffies, and an Akita, hes not taking his eyes off a large approaching dog for anything and i dont either.
Yeah might need a professional trainer in. With your dog being entire and now matured and with a bad experience you need some professional help probably
Yes my little maltipoo, food motivated when indoor but when he is outside, he simply does not care about food.
Every video I can find on reactive dog training.. is for food driven dogs.. when my dog reacts I could have a steak in my hand and all she wants to do is attack whatever person/dog is in front of her!
I've updated this a bit and it barely uses food. Would this help you more? ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
@@thecompletecanine
As an R+ dog trainer 20+ yrs, thank you for the correct info to the general public! Good work, il recommend your channel after watching your other videos
Oh thats great thank you!
I love it when balanced and R+ trainers can see the value in each others work!
The tips help a lot. It is harder if you have more than one dog!
Glad it helps. It’s definitely harder with 2 dogs.
I do recommend if you have 2 dogs to first train both separately
In case you need help still, here I break it down when you have 2 dogs (it's going to be a series of videos but the idea is the same). ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
I have a reactive Podenca and I have been using the crossing the street and blocking techniques without knowing this was the right thing to do! Thanks for the extra tips!
Great to hear! ☺️☺️
If its helpful here is a more detailed version of it: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
My Podenca gets too easily distracted by everything!🙄
Excellent video, as a trainer, I’m pleased you covered to need for the dog to see you as being in control by not fussing and giving human comfort to a canine who comprehends that action so very differently. Lennox is a beautiful boy, what is his breeding. 🌹❤️
Oh thank you!! Yes the over fussing just makes it worse, but its in our human nature to think its helpful.
Lenyx is a american stafford x english stafford. ☺️
@@thecompletecaninehe’s a magnificent boy.
He is my heart dog. Thank you! ❤️
Thank you for these tips. I have a reactive dog and your lesson is very helpful. ❤
You are so welcome. Im glad I could be of some help!
If you still need some help this one would probably give you some good starting points too:
How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
My dog is adopted. He’s usually good with people and dogs, but sometimes we just can’t stop his reactivity, we live in a building, it’s difficult when you’re stepping out the elevator to go out and there are dogs just in front of it coming in.
We just keep trying our best
That would be a hard situation for sure.
Keep trying your best is all you can do!
You got this!
You might find this one helpful to get better at managing those triggers: ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
1) cross the road
2) scatter treats
3) avoidance/distance
4) fix pulling (teach dog to walk behind you)
5) show the dog you can manage the sitiation
Yep!
1-3 management
4-5 is the biggest component for improvement!
Wow, you get a lot of haters commenting. I'd like to see what they would recommend for a similar scenario! Just advising to get a professional dog trainer's help is not sufficient.
Oh, haters gonna hate. 😅
Its okay though, ive had some lovely comments where people mentioned it helped them!
I can't wait to try this on my little reactive adorable monster. Thank you!
Id love to hear how you go!!
Hope things are going well for you!
If extra help is needed this one may be helpful;
How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
I have brought my very reactive dog into yards, and/or gave her a distraction snack. She is very strong, and people seem to understand in my neighborhood, so they actually cross the street. She was used for breeding (probably for a dog fighting ring), so I am sure she thinks she is doing the right thing by trying to attack. She is a rescue, and has learned a lot. ❤
Glad people understand.
Perhaps this video helps you more: How to stop dogs reactive behavior on walks
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
What are your thoughts on dogs that bold out of their homes, like if the door gets opened. And you are walking g your dog and it charges your dog. I have this happen so much in the neighborhood I’m in. Or loose dogs or a kid walking. A pit bull. I don’t walk my dogs anymore because it’s so frequent I can’t relax.
That must be horrible. I cant say that happens regularly in my area.
I carry a doggy dont device on me to help with dogs rushing.
This video may help:
What to do when off leash dog comes at you (Avoid getting attacked!)
ua-cam.com/video/gOYgyt6vohY/v-deo.html
Wow, this video helped met a lot in improving my dogs behaviour!
🥰🥰🥰
These are excellent tips. My issue is I aged faster than my Great Dane. I no longer have the strength - if another dog is pulling on their lead to get to my dog, his solution is to show no fear and charges. I know I'm going down (and at my age, that could be serious) - so I just let go. I'm not strong enough - or agile enough anymore - to successfully block him. However, during training classes - like what you demonstrated - he's perfect (because there are no chargers or those pulling on the lead). That's not the real world, unfortunately.
Oh im sorry to hear that. What equipment do you walk your dane on? I would definitely go for a halti / head halter here.
stop making excuses here and hire a real pro trainer!
@@thecompletecanine Yes - I do use a halti. :-) He can slip out of it, in no time flat once he sees 'his quarry' (and I put it on tighter than it probably should be - but any looser and I have zero chance of holding him). On walks, he's perfect, until another dog looks like it wants to 'greet' him. I have tried every collar available - including a prong. He is so fast and strong - once he bolts, there is no stopping. He goes through the split second of discomfort - knowing it will be worth it. :-) He was fine until the day he found out he was stronger than me - at about 2 years old. Most would consider him 'aggressive' but I know him - he is actually terrified of other dogs and trying to show them to 'not mess with me'. I thought I would bring him to daycare to get him accustomed to other dogs so he would see he has nothing to worry about; he hid in the corner, avoiding all dogs and the staff for the entire 4 hours (I watched him on their cams). I brought him there for 6 weeks, no change, except that he became terrified to go into the car. I would gladly try a board and train, but after seeing how terrified he became of day-care (and none of the dogs were even the slightest bit pushy towards him - they put him in the 'friendly dog' group) and that it took almost a year to get him comfortable going for a car-ride after that, I think it would destroy him. Even now, if he is in the car and we are on the same road that took him to day care - he looks terrified and shakes.
@@blujeans9462get a trainer to show you how to use a prong collar you won't look back much kinder to dog then all these flat collars and halts good luck
Yeah a prong collar may be a good idea. I don’t use them (often) but I’m not against them at all.
I'm a dog walker and I do all these things. I came up w/ them on my own . It just seemed like common sense to me. People call me a dog whisperer but i don't think i am. I just put myself in the dogs shoes.
Yeah some people have more natural feeling for it then others!
Did you also 'notice' that nearly no dog owner ever takes all of a class to completion or that nearly all trainers and class takers are women? I did because I took all level of class and CGC classes with pro trainers.
I just noticed that none of my clients trained their dogs.
@@airgunsanonymouslesslethal1904 I think a lot of owners use a dog walker in the hopes their dog behavior improves when they walk them themselves. It just doesn't transfer that way.
I see this is in New Zealand. Such a beautiful place.
It is! 🥰🥰
I think number four should've been number one, so I'll be looking for the video on that. I think everyone should walk their dogs the same way and direction that they drive; stay on the same side you drive on, know who has the right of way, and so on. These are okay for continuing training. Signed, New Subscriber ✌️
Yes I think you're right. I was considering moving it around because it is the most important tip. Maybe I will edit it and re-upload (if that's possible) and change those around) and thanks for subscribing!
Where I live, and there are no sidewalks, the rule is that a person on foot walked FACING oncoming traffic. That way you can easily see any vehicle coming close to you and they can see you. So, the opposite of the side you would be on if you were driving.
That’s convenient!
This one might have displayed it better, what do you think? ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
@carolynmvc yeah, I know what you mean, but I meant the two people on the sidewalk; they should be on the same side of the sidewalk that they would drive on the road. ✌️
Mine…. Barks at cyclists, scooters …even when they’re far far away :/ any ideas how I can help him with this? Cuz he is so loud and he hear/sees them, he’d bark and even pull on the lead, stand on his two legs… just so embarrassing 😭😭😭😭😭
Yeah definitely lots to work on.
I would say you can get more tips here on how to work on that.
Your dog will need some desensitisation and potentially a correction.
You see more of that here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLurioein2MULChRX5u1z4pTLxedvQD9Sz.html&si=Au_6n4CJtNOnsKqn
Very good pieces of advice!
Glad you think so! 🥰🥰
You might enjoy this one too 😊
How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
Good tips, thanks.
No problem!
Thank you for the helpful advice.I have three dogs to walk so it can be tricky when other dogs approach us.👍
You are so welcome!
Walking 3 dogs is hard! If they have reactivity issues its always best to start working with one at a time first.
yes; 3 dogs walked at once is nearly impossible to do for most all owners...
Agreed!
No walking 3 dogs by one person is impossible and not safe especially if they are medium to larger dogs.. please stop doing it @@DougHinVA
Lets not be that drastic 😅
I live in the UK with some really narrow pavements so can be a squeeze getting by other people with dogs which makes your methods tricky. My Romanian rescue (ex street dog) is totally fine off leash with other dogs and only reacts on leash but not always with all dogs, though most.
Is crossing the street not an option? Or walking onto a driveway and waiting there? Or walking on the road if its quiet?
What about when your dog is freaking out pulling and no matter what you do she is focused on the other dog? I have a foster dog that doesn’t like other dogs except my own dog which is weird.
How much work have you done with the foster away from dogs? Building engagement, loose leash walking and practising what to do if they see a trigger?
At a guess I would say you need to do more work away from dogs before slowly reintroducing them.
Id start here:
ua-cam.com/video/Zkr8WMfdef0/v-deo.html
Dropping treats seems like rewarding them for their reactive behavior.
My dog goes so crazy when she sees another dog, even on the opposite side of the street, there's no calming her down. If i get between them, she just struggles to get around me. We've been working on this for three years!
If you time it well its more about creating a different association when they see another dog.
I would suggest starting here instead of this video. The most important thing is getting lots of good reps in when your dog is still able to manage their emotions.. before we move to dogs that randomly appear and are harder to manage.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
My puppy is the same way and this video suggests good ways to AVOID the problem. But I don't see where it deals with the underlying issue head-on. In my case - and perhaps yours too, from the sound of it - I found good info searching under "leash-frustration reactivity". Reactivity arises from different temperament sources, and it is important to first identify what your dog's motivation is: stress, aggression, or excessive friendliness.
@@strepto77 Avoidance is part of your reactivity training though. I have linked in the description and the pinned comments more detailed videos that will help and address the problem 'head on'.
For example: ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
Or: ua-cam.com/video/_gYZmul8YB4/v-deo.html
Yeah. I'm my dog's case, she seems to want to attack! She actually did attach one time when I supposedly let her get too close. She matched on to the much smaller dog's back of it's neck, and would not let go. Being a rescue, I'm assuming she was attacked on the street.
@@strepto77
Thank you for the video. In some situations i can certainly use the strategies you provided. But what do you do when my dog reacts to every single loud sound close by or far away? If he sees something that only resembles a skateboard, he wants to go home. It's the sound that scares him, because he can't even see the skateboarder yet, only far, far away. So now, he often refuses to walk in places where he has ever seen a skateboarder. I tried giving him treats when this happens but he is so fixated on the sound that he can't focus on anything else? Should I bring out a skateboard and try to make him get comfortable with it ?
Yep you will have to actually work oj desensitising.
I wrote this up for a client before it may he helpful to you.
Break everything down into small steps.
Every session restart at a previous step so he will be successful first.
For example:
Skateboard/things that move such as scooters.
- Just having the skateboard out standing still
- Having the skate board move a tiny bit (like 10 cm back and forth
- Increase the distance the skateboard is moving by a bit (say half a meter back and forth)
- Increase again to a meter
- Have someone lift the skateboard up and down
- Have someone SIT on the skateboard - no moving
- Have someone STAND on the skateboard no moving
- Have someone wiggle on the skateboard (sitting)
- Have someone wiggle on the skateboard (standing)
- Have someone move half a meter (sitting)
- Have someone move half a meter (standing)
- Roll the skateboard a few meters (no one on it) Slowly
- Roll the skateboard a few meters (fast)
- Roll the skateboard a few meters with someone on it (but slooooowly)
- Roll the skateboard a few meters with someone on it FAST
- Roll the skateboard a fair distance without someone. Slow & Fast
- Roll the skateboard a fair distance with someone Slow & Fast
Practise all of these with the claiming exercise we did but also with a place command or a sit / or eye contact with you.
The point is that he gets bored and uninterested.
I have a shelter English Pointer...the short eared variety with a pit in the family...but a bird dog through and through. My yard is full of game birds and squirrels...around us are busy streets. I have to put him on a 20' tether and he has adjusted well. A hunting dog is superman....0 to 50 mph in a second and leaps tall fences in a single bound. The shelter let me have him for free .
I'm planning to rescue a sweet old surrendered dog his size for good influence and company. The one I am looking at is 10 yr. old Aussie shepherd surrendered at Christmas...he's heartbroken but healthy. Don't start me cussing such people. I think they will get on because both are very gentle and lonely who play well with others.
I hope they become best of mates ❤️
I love that you’re giving the 10 year old dog another chance.
I would like to see a video on how to walk a reactive dog past a reactive dog behind a fence, especially on a narrow road with a number of reactive dogs in yards. I live in a neighborhood like that. Should I just not walk him in my neighborhood? Usually, I can get him past one or two dogs barking at him on one side of the road but if another dog starts barking on the opposite side where we are walking, he flips out.
Oh i can probably take a video of that at some stage but there is just dogs behind fences on one side. I just need to see if I can borrow a reactive dog.
I must say though, walking a difficult route can be really beneficial if thats less stressful for everyone.
My dogs have to walk past our neighbors yapyaps and they go off every single time making my dogs react too. Maybe i can film that for you!
@@thecompletecanine yes, that would be great. I've worked hard with my do since he was a pup because I knew he would get really big some day. Kind of like working with foals early because you know it's going to be a horse someday. He's so good about everything else and no negativity reactivity with dogs on the trail. For some reason, being aggressively barked at makes him react with snarling, barking, hair up on his back. He'll even flip over after leaping in the air and lunging. That's a lot to control with a 90 lb dog.
Which is fair enough to have a bit of a reaction if others dogs go off at him.
The video is on my to do list to film.
i have a reactive german shephard, we live on a ranch with cows and goats and chickens and he’s fine with them most of the time but once the cows or goats are running, he starts wanting to go after them and he’s crying and whining and trying to jump the fence, he’s like that with new people too, we don’t take him out to walks around the neighborhood because he’s already reactive and there’s lose dogs everywhere
Yeah sounds like hes got a decent amount of prey drive
What if my dog is reactive due to excitement? Crossing the road, scatter feeding (even with high value treats), body blocking just isn’t possible because of how bad her reactivity is. I’m finding it incredibly difficult to manage or even find any sort of helpful resources for this type of reactivity
Hey!
Very valid question. So your dog sounds like jts an impulse control issue. I would say this video answers and shows the majority of that:
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
Its working in situations where your dog can manage it and building new habits (including management skills) and then slowly adding distractions.
@@thecompletecanine I’ve just watched the video and it seems very useful, thank you! Though I do have an additional question about selectivity, my dog gets more reactive when she sees collies and golden retrievers, which I think is due to over socialisation with these specific breeds. She’s only ever had good experiences with both of these breeds so I don’t think it’s any sort of aggression or fear. Is there anything more I need to do besides impulse control? (I’m also unsure if dogs are able to differentiate between breeds but I’ve noticed how much her reactivity sky rockets once she spots them)
@@Iopid Yep selectivity is pretty normal. For example German Shepherds and black labs are a hard NO for my staffy.
It can be because Collies are quite intense (herding/staring) and Golden Retrievers can be a bit 'much' and overly friendly/not reading the calm down signs that well.
@@thecompletecanine That makes sense, again thank you so much! ❤️
Regarding dropping treats on the ground (?) I don’t want my dog thinking it’s ok to eat stuff on the ground while we walk. I have a very young dog who likes to eat every yucky thing on the ground or in the grass so NO on dropping treats here. Probably good idea for a lot of dogs though. Good video.
Yeah thats where you might add it on a command. “Go sniff” or “get it” and teach for every other time a “leave it”
So true about stroking your dog saying,
“It’s ok it’s ok”! I see a lot of dog training similar to teaching children too 😁
Oh its so similar! I used to be a primary school teacher!
In the last example, passing between 2 dogs and changing sides, what do you do if those dogs are barking and lunging rather than being quiet and calm???
If those 2 dogs were also super reactive and I would have a reactive dog myself id probably turn around and wait for them to pass one by one up on a driveway. Or if I have good control of my dog I would use a combo of body blocking and the look command. But realistically I rarely ever have that happen. I scan ahead a lot and do avoid situations if I can because no need to make everyones life harder.
Great common sense tips for the uneducated dog. A dog that has been properly leash trained and is concentrating on a task such as heel can't be reactive. They simply cannot think of two things at once. Properly leash training a dog at home before going out in the world will help immensely.
Absolutely. First we practise loose leash walking and then we should start working on triggers.
My dog has Learned all basics- sit, stay, come, heel, and it means nothing when we pass other dogs in the street, even when he’s in a heel
Might have to slowly introduce distractions and triggers.
Maybe this video will be of help for you? I explain all the techniques in more detail: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
Awesome video with great content. Thanks!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You might enjoy this one as well
How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
Thank you so much for your helpful response!
Glad it was helpful 😊😊
This one may give you some more insight as well
How to train your leash reactive dog? First important steps to success.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
6:40 she just did the thing you weren’t supposed to do? Telling your dog “it’s alright” lol
Yep that was the “before” training part.
Yep haha, that was the “before” training part.
I just put it last in the video.
Wow! This dog could be my pup's twin. His brindle, white chest, and muzzle colors are almost identical.
Awh ❤️ mine also has a white tip of his tail. Like a paint brush.
@@thecompletecanine mine too! It's just a little tiny bit of a white tip but it's there.
@@theresad6990 ha that is so cool! Mine is an English x American Stafford
Distractions only avoids the issue and a good start. Now I need a way to fix the problem. None of those work for me. 😵😅
Hopefully you find something that works
This video may show you that it can work with a more reactive dog: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
@@thecompletecanine I’ll keep trying that. Hilariously I adopted him over a year ago and walk him 2-3 times a day doing similar drills most of the walk. 🙄
I was really hoping to find something here to help my dog, unfortunately I have tried all of this and more and nothing seems to work. It’s hard to figure out because he’s selectively reactive to only some dogs, so I never know when it’s going to happen. I only walk him now super early in the morning and late at night, which isn’t ideal in the winter😢
@@samiam8443 hey Sam, I made a more detailed video that may be of more use for you. It's important to find a method that works for you, practise all skills without triggers first and then start adding.. and sticking to it. I hope this one helps you more: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
Nut what about for people like me where my dofs drive when they see another dog is two intense for food or toys to get there attention and ur on a cycle track where u can't actually get off to let people past ?
Then id suggest you start here:
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
Making sure you get lots of reps in where your dog is able to manage themselves and then slowly build up the difficulty.
If your dog cant do it when its “easy”, then they can definitely not do it when its “hard”.
My dog lunges and nips but it's after greeting nicely and as they are leaving. He dosnt bark. He is into chasing birds so he likes when things run away from him to chase, I think that's what he's doing pretending it's a chase game as they leave
May he worth considering if he should be meeting dogs atm if thats the behaviour you know Will happen next
I do that 😂 it’s ok buddy!!! I’m working on it 😔
Haha with you many others!
My dog generally walks without pulling. She loves sniffing during the walks. But... even when whatever scares her is about 100 meters away, as soon as she hears of sees it, she will turn towards it, stare at it and start barking and lunging like crazy. I've tried all you show, but I'm facing several problems at that point.
1. She will also turn and stare if it is someone or something she likes. The stare will turn into lunging with enthousiasm. It's very hard to tell the outcome of her staring, unless I know for sure she likes who or what is approaching.
2. She can be scared of everyone who walks towards her... but there are men and women that she doesn't respond to. When they carry something, I know she'll probably be triggered, as when they push or pull something. But otherwise there's no telling how she will respond. Do I really want her to avoid meeting every person we encounter?
3. Even when I decide up front that it is a potential scaring something and cross the street, or turn a corner, she will still try to turn around, lunge and bark as long as what scares her is in sight.
4. She is very small, about 35 cm high. And she is incredibly quick and flexible. There's no way I can block her with my legs. No matter how short I hold the leash. It even happends that I accidently lift her (she wears a harness, no collar) in my efforts to block her or turn her away. She's that wild with a lot of encounters. Even at large distances.
The base of her reaction is fear, but the way she reacts is 98% of the time incredibly agressive. To a point that I know that if she wouldn't be on leash, she would actually attack.
Only every now and then she will turn away in stead of lunge. I can't figure out if she's simply not interested or too scared to even lunge...
I believe there is not one way that works for all dogs. I believe one must see the dog and the owner on a walk to be able to think of a strategy for that particular couple. Sadly enough, after over 2 years of owning her, I still haven't found a solution.
Oh I agree with you.
From your description the first thing I would do is move her onto a collar and out of the harness so you get more control. And then its a matter of keep walking when she starts the staring. Potentially she needs an additional correction that does work (followed up by rewards for the right behaviour)
The getting in front of your dog requires a bit of practise when there is no triggers.
@@thecompletecanine I had her on collar shortly afte she came to us. But when she lunges and barks, she pulls on the leash so hard that it sound like she's choking herself. Often she coughs heavily and weird afterwards, a very disturbing sound. Like a cat that's coughing up a hairball, but much louder. That's why I changed back to a harness. Should I really go back to a collar?
I try to keep walking, but most times I will end up dragging her behind me. If she's in that state of mind, she doesn't react to short, sharp pulls. And since she's so small and agile, it's almost impossible to block her view. Even if the 'danger' turns a corner and out of sight, she will keep staring and occassionally bark for 10-20 seconds, as to make sure it won't come back. And when we finally start walking again, she will still look back every few steps.
What kind of correction do you have in mind? I've tried short, sharp pulls, I've tried to keep walking even when that meant I had to drag her away, I've tried distracting her, I've tried short sharp voicecommands... The thing she responds best to, is the one thing I don't want to use: anger.
Its hard to say without seeing it but if shes so stuck in barking and fixating I would probably go towards a spray bottle correction with some water.
Hey, I thought maybe you like this video. In the end of it I talk a lot about mindset and calming signals which may be some more info that you would like to help your dog. :) ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
nice fence work
Haha thanks
Wonderful but your dog if Far from reactive. I have owed 3 gsd dogs plus have adoped 7 mixed breeds during my life time. Recently adoped a dog from Texas rescue. Husky shepherd mix, very loving and loves everyone including children. She is 2. My BIG problem is she screams cries standing up in street lunging trying to get to other dogs in a fanatic way. Can't have her approach any dog like that. Nothing stops her. She's completely trained in the house takes treats and is amazing in every way. EXCEPT out on the street. She looks for dogs. Will Not take treats even when I throw them on the ground. We do avoid dogs and turn about as soon as I see one to prevent her from going nuts. Seriously people can hear her a mile away screams and cries LOUD. Use long leads for recall and works well in my yard. Help help help. What can I do. She's emotionally distracted. Thoughts please?
This video might be better for you :) ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
Wonder if you could train her to mow the yard?
feel free to come and try!
Our dog freeze, lays down until the other dog comes closer and will attack!! Looks anxiety. Yes we always try to ignore this, but our dog doesnt like to be sniffed and will attack the other dog. She is a 3.5 labrador, this is changed really when she got spayed.
Yes so dont let other dogs come up and sniff her and keep moving - dont let her lay down and wait for dogs to approach.
So that will never change now for her? Never approached by another dog? It is what it is but how can she learn to play or approach other dogs?
@@renefloor5348 your perspective of what 'dog social' is, needs to change.
For her socialising might mean going for a walk together with another dog she knows. Hanging out at a cafe. Low energy activities until she trusts the dogs to not be in her face and over the top.
There is ZERO value in dogs meeting on the street on leash. If you never see that person again, then what was the point of the meet & greet?
There is always still work to do that she becomes more relaxed around other dogs - but at the moment shes saying 'i don't want to meet them' so why force it?
She is never been attacked by any dog, but for a reason she show fear or anxiety when a dog approach her even from a distance. Problem is, there are dogs everywhere and I aim to walk her at places where no dogs are but its not always possible.
@ yeah shes an adult now. Things change when they grow up. Ill see if i can link you a podcast episode thet will help explain it better.
My dog is triggered by the dogs that live across the street just chilling in their own yard. He’ll start barking a lot, pacing and getting up on the fence (chain link) . He starts panting real fast too and even has a lot of saliva (foam)coming out of his mouth.
He’s reactive even inside the house when he can sense them. Starts barking and whining and scratching at the door.
Yikes that sounds like an unhealthy obsession. Id def get a trainer in for that as this is quite specific but the first thing is not letting him have (much) access to the fence where he can see the others/start blocking off, a solid recall and finding a correction to snap him out of that behavior.
What about taking 3 dogs for a walk one is reactive others not
You have to work with the reactive dog separately for some time first and then slowly reintroduce together again.
I explain that here:
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
Is this in south africa? 🤔🧐
No im in New Zealand and im Dutch ☺️
I like all your methods, but the blocking. For my dog, blocking is like trapping him. I need to leave him free to see and keep an eye on the trigger, but I need to distract and break his stare with treats or commands. I'm always grateful for a car parked on the side of the road that blocks his vision. I also find that keeping his leash a little slack, if possible, even if he pulls helps him feel free to control the situation rather than feel trapped and leash aggressive.
Every dog is unique!
Would this video make it clearer how to use the blocking? It's not supposed to feel your dog trapped. ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
Thank you for that link and video. It all makes sense. I will have to stick with my dog being unique. But you have a lot of good points that I should work on. Thank you
No problem at all!
It would be helpful to demonstrate with actual reactive dogs with their triggers around. All those dogs are calm. Also, judging from her emphasis about making a dog sit while something scary is approaching, I guess she is talking specifically about FEAR reactive dogs.
The dogs were reactive. That snippet is right at the end.
In general its useless to make a dog sit. If its fearful it is, but if overexcited and still lunging/barking a sit isnt going to get you much success either.
@@thecompletecanine Oh, that was reactive? 😅😂. Sorry, just making a bit of fun coz my dog, an 80 lb Cane corso is very reactive, doesn't even bark, just grumbles as she lunges towards dogs, even if they're still far away. She even slams through our front door and charges, huffing & puffing, to the gate when dogs pass by our house. She goes from zero to 100. Somehow, because of the intensity of her reactivity, I don't think that what I've seen here would be applicable to her.
@@dianadelcastillo1896 Yeah for that owner that's reactive. :) I think if you own a Cane Corso you've got your work cut out for you and you're probably best off with an in person trainer than youtube videos.
How is this video? I made it just today in my reactive dog class. Same techniques bigger dogs ;)
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
What breed is your dog?
Hes an american stafford x english stafford 🥰
@@thecompletecanine thank you! Ive got a 7 months old puppy from the shelter and he looks just like your dog 😍 face, colors -event white tail tip 😅 we are in Poland 😉 just starting „the training” too 🙃
Awhh 🥰🥰 if hes just as good as my boy you’ll have the best dog ever!
This lady today had her dogs tightly leashed and they were whining the entire time. My dogs were well ahead (more than 20m) and she still did this. It was unpleasant for all of us. This was on a path so we couldn't avoid them.
Were your dogs off lead?
@@thecompletecanine yes, they were.
@@namedropper126 probably would've been nice if you would've leashed your dogs if you could tell the lady was struggling with her dogs. Especially if your dogs were so far ahead.
In nearly all USA areas, a dog is your property under the laws and you are not responsible for another person and their dog... Ignore them both. It is NOT your problem to fix.
@thecompletecanine well, there are not many places to go off lead near my home. If you look at it another way, you might say that the other person could have chosen a spot that is not marked as an off leash area.
What if the other dog is unleashed and it's coming towards you and your dog is a guard dog and it's trying to protect you, then what????
Is your dog an actual personal protection dog? Or do you think they are protecting you?
I often recommend some of these: ua-cam.com/video/gOYgyt6vohY/v-deo.htmlsi=DIQTkOTwZOliBN1D
My dog is a mix of Boxer dog and something. He looks just like that dog
Oh really.
Mine has no boxer in him. 🥰
Hes an american stafford x English Stafford.
i disagree that you're not teaching your dog anything when petting it and telling it "you're ok" etc. you're teaching it to be more afraid. and you're instilling anxiety. the touch might become aversive.
Yeah youre giving them the wrong message for sure.
Ma'am this isn't teaching your dog to interact with other dogs, instead your just avoiding interaction! How is this helping anything??
Hey Trent,
For many reactive dogs the goal isnt interacting with other dogs. Its being able to just pass them without conflict and anxiety.
So for many dog owners this does help on their walks and is a good start to work on neutrality.
These videos show a whole process of it (still working with these clients currently):
ua-cam.com/play/PLurioein2MULChRX5u1z4pTLxedvQD9Sz.html&si=55s0gfSKJz4Yh92-
If your goal is to have your reactive dog play and romp around with other dogs then this video (or my channel) is indeed not helpful for you.
My dog waits until the last minute to react and he doesn't react every time.
A well timed correction just before he goes off might be necessary.
Heya! I thought maybe this one will help you a bit better. It's all about prevention when you train with a reactive dog ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
None of these work for me. I try to block him and it doesn't work on a 130 lb dog. I have tried everything.
Sorry to hear that.
How about this video it may be clearer
How to stop dogs reactive behavior on walks
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
What if treats don't work
You dont need treats to body block
My female Jack Russell loves to chase bicycles, skateboards, joggers etc anything that is traveling too quickly We live in a flat overlooking a cycle path that has been re-named a foot path so the council expects cyclists to dismount and walk. They have signs telling cyclists to do so which they understandably ignore. My dog can read so she polices the regulation by chasing and barking at the offenders she has a ball and we are entertained by her. It's better than TV.
Thats risky. I hope she doesn’t get injured or comes across a cyclist or person willing to report her to council for it.
These look like avoidance tricks, but when is the unwanted behaviour actually extinguished???
Once you build enough trust up with your dog, where they know you can take care of the situation.. and youve practises these management skills for a while you see the reactivity comes down.
There is no magic fix or skill for reactivity. And itll never be fully extinguished.
Always with the treats! Drives me crazy. My dog s no interest in food, especially when he is in stressful situations
You might be working over treshold..
But here is one with non food motivated dogs where I dont use treats.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.htmlsi=K141ndvLPL9rta4Q
I have done all of these suggestions. None of them work for my dog. Her reactivity distance is 4 blocks. Yes, 4 blocks. She sees a dog in the distance at all and she wants to get at it. She completely loses all sense of time and space...her only focus is on the other dog. She 'forgets' who I am. She is super aggressive toward other dogs when on leash. And if it is a female dog...she is 10x worse. Body blocking, does not matter to her. Treats do not matter to her. She focuses on the dog and on the dog only. She doesn't hear me, see me, or even seem to realize I'm there. She leaps in the air, twisting and turning, trying to free herself to get at the other dog....regardless of how short the leash is and whether I am between her and the other dog or not. She leaps, barks, gets so reactive she has hurt herself.
If your dogs reactivity is that bad, you will have to work with a trainer in person. Not a single youtube video is probably going to properly help you..
Working with a professional who can observe your dog and work through trial and error methods and work on your handling skills/relationship and building rock solid foundations with your dog when there is no triggers around is paramount before another dog js going to be introduced.
I know she said don’t make your dog sit 🙄 But at a distance that far I make my dog sit so she can watch the dog and see it’s not a threat. After some time doing this my dog will now let other dogs pass while sitting. Once past we carry on with our walk.
@@AGee2217 There is a difference making your dog sit and observe from a distance whilst triggers are passing.. then having a dog sit and restrained whilst they are actively being approached by their trigger.
for the past week i have been trying to find this 1 vid , i have this same problem and my dog reacts to Fedex and especially ups trucks set my black lab in to pissed off kill mode , every time im on a walk in the neighboorhood i run to my neighboor's drive way cause for God knows why my dog lunges at fedex , i never knew that i was doing the right thing by going to the drive way to avoid big scary fedex and ups , that i got to the point that i quit walking around the neighboorhood and started doing leash training work instead in front of my house up and down my street and also been blocking his view in which i also conciously/unconciously knew was the right thing to do from watching previous dog trainers
Im glad you found those ways naturally! I hope you will get some improvement on your walks soon!
@@thecompletecanine i do to , im so glad i found your vid , that as a matter of fact i walk him up and down my street in front of the house to train him turn around , i have even been in the mid set of top of the street DZand so turn around and go to the bottom then turn around go to the top of the street top and bottom i always say DZ DZ , meaning danger zone that i noticed this training kinda starting to run its course except im no where near as ready for the public just yet i got 1 or 2 months til nice weather season here in georgia
Just keep at it! You got this.
Hey! I made a more detailed video, maybe this one will help you too: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
@@thecompletecanine thank you for letting me know , quick update i have been going up and down my street then turning around and seems to be helping my dog learn to wlak nicely next to me
My dog has a very loud bark and it sounds like he is being attackt. All the tips you gave I already use.
And they are working, but my dong now has a muzzle to get other people and dogs to give him some space. Due to the muzzle he cannot eat the scattered treats. How can I fix that?
You wont be able to do the scatter feed activity with a muzzle on.
You could see if you can bring something with you thats easy to eat through a muzzle but it does lose the effect of having your dog searching for it and be distracted by it.
@@thecompletecanine also we live in a apartment building and just this evening we stepped out of the elevator and there were two man standing on both of the sides of the exit and my dog went ballistic. Then we went outside and there was a women passing by with her dog. So my dog had no time to adjust and he barked as a mad man. But he stopped quicker than a few months ago so that was great but just for his own health and wellness I took him back in as soon as possible. Do you know if the reactiveness is ever going to stop?
@@s.w.2162 I think if you live in such a high trigger environment its going to be tricky and you probably need help from a professional that can give you pointers specific to your situation. There is def some ways I would approach this but thats hard to advise without ever seeing you jn person.
My dog will not take treats in this situation 🤷🏻♀️🤷🏻♀️
Your dog may need more work in trust in handler. Lots of dogs wont take food when too stressed.
Didn’t hear any barking until the end and then it was cut off. Not reactive dogs.
Just because its not intensely present in a video, doesnt mean its not there.
Is it my imagination or incomprehension, but are sides (right, left) mirror-reversed in the video?
Yes, I got those muddled up in the video 😅 not thinking about how you would see it.
@@thecompletecanine, thanks. I appreciate your material, and it’s always good to receive hints I may not entirely crazy, or otherwise brain-damaged 🤪 .
@@grammaticopedanticus9727 haha yeah this one was definitely on me lol
@@thecompletecanine, well, at least you make dogged attempts, and thereby the dogs honor us all 😀 .
Thanks again!
@@grammaticopedanticus9727 thanks so much! It's a learning curve for sure!
I’ve tried all of these things more than once. None of this worked..
May need to look at extra factors.
What is causing your dog to react, what is his treshold, what gear is he on, what situation does he react more.. do you need better food? Or equipment.. is your timing off.
These are just small handhelds but a trainer in person would be able to pinpoint better what you may need help with.
Does this video make it clearer? I hope you find something that works for you but usually you have to stick to a method for quite some time to see results ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
But none of these will fix a reactive dog… it’s just tips to avoid confrontation but the dog will remain reactive.
Yes correct. I didnt say they will fix reactivity. I said these will make your walks easier.
I've made another video with more detail. Maybe you think that one is more effective. ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
#1 is simple to do and most untrained owners do NOT know enough to ignore your dog and leave it alone! I simply tell people with a leashed dog that my dog is in training ... not saying anything! Notice the woman has a voiceover person since she does NOT speak English!
Lol do you mean that I dont speak english? 😂😂
I had to voiceover because my microphone stopped working and all you hear is the wind.
Now show that with a Vizsla please.
Haha next time Ive got a reactive Viszla ill make sure to film in.
@@thecompletecanine ❤️
I got you a Huntaway x GSD? Not a Visla but had none in my class haha
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
this is more on AVOIDANCE and PREVENTING, NOTHING here teaches about actually STOPPING DOG REACTING to triggers
Management is a solution for some people.
I also mention in the description and even in the video these tips are not going to get rid of reactivity but will make walks easier.
exactly my point, your title is in actuality misleading and may be considered click bait because everything you presented has nothing to do with STOPPING dog reactivity. you dont even have a reactive dog to begin with.
that's why you only have 500 subscribers vs the amount of views your content garnered
@@roma8eight8 There is no magic solution to fix reactivity. Yes, in person I would add different strategies as well and layer in more desensitization and also introduce corrections for over-reacting. But this is youtube. Not a 1:1 training session where a client has paid for a session and I'm concentrating on THEM and not on video content. All of these strategies I use daily with reactive dogs though and it DOES reduce the way they respond to things because they learn alternative behaviour.
If you expected a 'Press this button and your dogs reactivity will magically disappear' I wish you all the best finding it. Make sure to patent it and sell it for a lot of money because I'm sure everyone would want an instant fix.
@@thecompletecanine like i stated, your views vs your subscribers says it all, if there's some value to your content with the 19K view you have gotten on this post, you would have bumped up your subs, I just wanted you to think about that. But hey, whatever makes the most views right?
My state of Georgia has dog training kennels for non violent prison inmates...New Hope it's called. This is a great star on Georgia's crown in Heaven...yesterday was graduation day with the prisoners showing off their dogs, which live in the cells with them and are their pride and joy. I pray this will catch on all over the globe. My new hopeful adoption dog is there...see below.
Oh I think ive seen that on tv. Such a great concept! I agree with you, hope more places (and countries) would do something like that!
Proofread your videos!
Where did you see a mistake?
I like the recommendations, but to show examples with a 0 reative dog is kind of pointless.
The dogs were reactive. I have the initial responses to my dogs right at the end of the video.
Took your advice on board, made another video with a more reactive dog. What do you think? ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
Would have been better if you used a reactive dog in video
More reactive dogs - samen methods here
ua-cam.com/play/PLurioein2MULChRX5u1z4pTLxedvQD9Sz.html&si=eOdRw8YgClmMIbeQ
And here ua-cam.com/video/sTM95qgu9GI/v-deo.htmlsi=4lSUTJMtJK9VCvcn
And here: ua-cam.com/video/_3SZ9-oHo_U/v-deo.htmlsi=u2NeIW-5UU8g-XJv
And here: ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.htmlsi=yjZxOrr6FRecnnMc
@@thecompletecanine thank you
@@johnsebring-y1q no problem
I dont think this works for dogs with extreme reactivity. If crossing the street prevented this we would do it. Making the dog sit is sometimes the only way to control them. I agree with throwing the treats to distract but when you have a 70lb dog jumping lunging barking flipping out. Crossing the street is not an option. The idea is we are trying to get that behavior to seize....
Its management that will help reduce reactivity in the long run.
But i did make a clearer video using similar techniques here if that helps: 4 ways to stop dog reactivity / leash reactivity on your walks
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
@@thecompletecanine thank you ill check that out. I think some dogs have no threshold, even if the dog is in eyesight it starts triggering.
There is always a treshold. It may just be very far away and not manageable outside set up training sessions.
Only way it works for me is desensitization, I sit on the side of the street for half an hour per day. Whenever he lunge I stop him, now he is enjoying the activity, people and cars pass by him so many times that he doesn't care, but it takes times, for me around 2 weeks a huge improvement but not completely gone. Depending on how reactive they are may take 4 to 6 weeks.
@@HeliaandLucky yes I agree. I did this with our cats. It was the only way my dog could over come the aggression. We got trainers, they wanted to use commands...but it never worked. I put my cat in a cage and everyday for 10 minutes, 20 minutes etc, I would put the dog in the room. After a while the dog could care less about the cat. Now they all live together without issue.
I think we have plenty of high quality dog trainers online now already , we really do not need anymore .
Feel free to skip me 😂
@@thecompletecanine oh i will be
Sound and creative tips, offered without lengthy padding! How can you beat that?
@@lindsaytod21 thanks for your kind words!
This is terrible advice and it doesn't address the issue, if you use these "techniques" , your dog will never learn how to interact with anything!👎
Ive made a more extended version of this video as well. Maybe you will change your mind on that one. 4 Tips on how to stop leash reactivity with your dog
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
No offense, but where in your video is the "reactive" dog? Pretty hard to learn what to do when the dogs used all seem to be very calm!!!
Why not use a really reactive dog in the lesson? Would sure be more helpful to the viewers!! 😂😂
They were reactive, i added a short video all the way on the end to show initial response to my dogs.
Edit to add; its also not necessary to see a dog completely blow up. In my private sessions i always teach a client technique first without triggers, because if you cant do the techniques when nothing is going on.. you’re going to have a real hard time if there are triggers around.
In this one you see some bigger responses:
Reactive GSD Leo - Transformation
ua-cam.com/video/cyK9Pyl0vCs/v-deo.html
And
4 Week Transformation in Fierce
ua-cam.com/video/5qcqNRra3UM/v-deo.html
Took your advice on board, made another video with a more reactive dog. What do you think? ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
@@thecompletecanine thank you for your additional video. Found it far more helpful, and informative. I loved the " there's no magic solution" quote ... that's perhaps sonething ALL of us trying to do right by our dogs need to remember 😁
Im glad it was more helpful. Just learning and trying videos as we go! 🥰
This isn't gonna fix his behavior
Its going to help towards “fixing” behaviour.
Particularly the body blocking. Ive got lots of other videos that show those exact methods working towards the end goal.
A useless batch of “advice” IMO….using a non-reactive dog to demonstrate your method is not helpful. I also tire of “trainers” who advise to ALWAYS have a pocket full of treats to distract a reactive dog, it doesn’t work with mine and I can’t always walk (or afford) with endless treats to induce a certain response. This is all not helpful for real world situations. Thanks anyway…
The small dogs were reactive. I have got their initial responses all the way at the end of the video.
I hope you find something that works in the end.
Took your advice on board, made another video with a more reactive dog. What do you think? ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
So avoid everything
Partly yes. Part of the reason your dog may be reactive is because they lost trust in you handling the situation.
So whilst you’re training in controlled situations that you can set up, moving away is going to be the solution in showing your dog you got their back.
Here you can see it better.
ua-cam.com/video/QKgJWDN0Wds/v-deo.html
@thecompletecanine won't that just reinforce if he barks or makes a fuss you will just avoid situations? I think that will make you look even more weak. Are you a positive only training? How about walking through it and show them there's nothing to be afraid of, or if they're doing it because they think they're the boss how about correcting that behaviour and letting them know that's not ok.
Ps: my dog dont care about food outside and bribing him with food doesn't work. I've started just walking past dogs and praise him if he don't react and correct him if he does bark it's working but hard to get enough repetitions in. I've only had my dog 5 weeks he's 17 months old and had no training but I've taught him alot just gotta work on duration and distractions and I think he will be OK.
@@ashleymorris6636 I'm not a positive only trainer. I do correct a dog if necessary for over-reacting, but not until I know that I did everything to make him feel safe and to make sure that they know I've got their back. Like why walk through something you KNOW they find scary if you can just go around it and teach him its fine we work on it until you ARE ready to walk through it?
If you see a group of poisonous snakes lying on the ground.. would you walk around them? Or right through them?
By walking through it you are showing that you don't take your dogs fears seriously.
I actually talk about the whole mindset about that here: ua-cam.com/video/W-JHtGSAnE0/v-deo.html
@thecompletecanine so how are you going to work through a problem ? As you just said you eventually address it. Why not address it straight away and get it out the way. Like say if your dog gets scared walking through your gate what you gonna do not walk it or baby it? No you'd just walk through and show it there's no problem. People tend to baby dogs too much. Why avoid a problem. My dog use to react every time I walk past a dog now its 8 times out of ten it's OK. Why would I avoid walking past dogs or hiding behind a car it's stupid. I keep finding dogs to walk past so he gets use to them. Avoiding problems is just delaying addressing the problems I don't get what's hard to understand about that.
@thecompletecanine and by going another way how are you teaching that its fine by going another way? If anything you maybe reinforcing it being scared because you're avoiding going that way.
This is pathetic. Avoiding the problem doesn’t solve the problem. Ps cut your grass.
😂😂
In none of the four "solutions" have your taught your dog ANYTHING!! Avoidance, distraction, etc, Does NOT teach the dog ANYTHING!!! What you need to teach the dog is that you are in control, you are the leader, and it has nothing to fear. YOU are in control.
In the 4th method I literally say and do that. ☺️
Your body position and blocking your dog taking ownership of the walk teaches your dog about control and leadership.
But id love to hear what you do? ☺️
No need to YELL.
❤️❤️
How about here, do I show control and leadership here?
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
This is useless
All the best on your journey then. ☺️
Useless..
👍🏼
Maybe this one is more useful for you
ua-cam.com/video/zX57SV8OAck/v-deo.html
hahhahhahaahah all bullshit none of this work when you have reactive dog, the only thing that works is teaching your dog to focus on you and stay calm. A good correction timing is the key to teach your dog that the behavior is not what you want and instead staying calm will be rewarded
Okay, im glad you find something that works for you.
Not sure why you watched this video if you already know what to do.
@@thecompletecanine sometimes you need to see what’s wrong is happening around you, to make it right for yourself
Whatever works for you buddy
Well you're not even walking your dog in the real world with actual other people or other dogs WTF? And you're not even demonstrating the situation with a strong reactive dog?
Did you watch more than 30 seconds? Because im definitely out in the real word 😂