So what I got from this video is that the oil pressure gauge comes with 2 wires as a kit; one 9 ft long wire that connects with the included oil pressure sensor and the sandwhich plate, and one that powers the actual gauge, using the same power in the wires to the cigarette lighter. Am I wrong?
Great video thanks for posting. Can I please ask something - I have an AEM air filter just like yours, which I removed as it was just loosely pushed though the inner wing with the cone air filter behind the wheel arch liner. How is yours secured at the opposite end of the inlet manifold? I would like to refit mine, but have not found a great way of securing it
I believe there should be a bracket on the intake and that mounts to a bolt or mount point somewhere near the strut tower, mine also does hang loosely, it was damaged and the mounting arm on the intake broke. If you're wondering about the air filter itself I just used a normal Phillips head screw clamp to hold it onto the intake tube
@@lk-auto Cheers, makes sense, my bracket is missing too. I removed it and out the Std intake on so that I can sort a bracket as it was rubbing on the hole in the inner wing 👍🏻
Hey brother I got a question so I got a 1995 Honda Civic EX coupe with the d16z6 just got done putting a new rebuilt motor inn Motor runs perfect doesn't burn leaks smoke ticknock nothing....but..... Yesterday my oil light flashing on the dash twice and I want to make sure it's not the oil pump failing and pushing low PSI and that it's just the sensor that's bad So I was going to install one of these gauges so I can check my PSI and then have a gauge to constantly watch it now I know if you just hook up the gauge that they sell from the auto parts store doesn't come with that sandwich plate so then I think I would lose the function of the light on the dash and the sensor correct? The only way to be able to have the light still work on the dash and the sensor and the new gauge would be to run the sandwich Right???
You might be right, i haven't heard of anyone running both but i could be wrong, although once you have thegauge that should be all you need, unless you're concerned about keeping it stock or at least replaceable
@@wesleyyang5941 I haven't been able to test it yet as the project is still in progress but i've personally seen others use these as well as plenty of videos of people running these on boosted motors with no problems
Hey man you are the best teacher ever , thank you so much, nobody explains as slow and detailed as you
Oh you reacting to the alarm got me dead bro
it KILLS me
Thanks for the guide, going to give it a try sometime this week
I wish you luck! Let me know how it goes!
@@lk-auto so far so good, have everything hooked up. Now I just have to drill a hole through my firewall to get the cable into the car.
Thanks man can't wait to get my aem gauge in
I bought auto meter gauge pod for replace that plastic, is perfect fit and you can put 2 gauges
So what I got from this video is that the oil pressure gauge comes with 2 wires as a kit; one 9 ft long wire that connects with the included oil pressure sensor and the sandwhich plate, and one that powers the actual gauge, using the same power in the wires to the cigarette lighter. Am I wrong?
06:49 lol Shutthefup i hate that alarm xD
kills me everytime...
Me too even when driving smh
what is the size of your sandwich plate?
Any oil leak?
Great video thanks for posting. Can I please ask something - I have an AEM air filter just like yours, which I removed as it was just loosely pushed though the inner wing with the cone air filter behind the wheel arch liner. How is yours secured at the opposite end of the inlet manifold? I would like to refit mine, but have not found a great way of securing it
I believe there should be a bracket on the intake and that mounts to a bolt or mount point somewhere near the strut tower, mine also does hang loosely, it was damaged and the mounting arm on the intake broke. If you're wondering about the air filter itself I just used a normal Phillips head screw clamp to hold it onto the intake tube
@@lk-auto Cheers, makes sense, my bracket is missing too. I removed it and out the Std intake on so that I can sort a bracket as it was rubbing on the hole in the inner wing 👍🏻
Hey brother I got a question so I got a 1995 Honda Civic EX coupe with the d16z6 just got done putting a new rebuilt motor inn
Motor runs perfect doesn't burn leaks smoke ticknock nothing....but.....
Yesterday my oil light flashing on the dash twice and I want to make sure it's not the oil pump failing and pushing low PSI and that it's just the sensor that's bad
So I was going to install one of these gauges so I can check my PSI and then have a gauge to constantly watch it now I know if you just hook up the gauge that they sell from the auto parts store doesn't come with that sandwich plate so then I think I would lose the function of the light on the dash and the sensor correct? The only way to be able to have the light still work on the dash and the sensor and the new gauge would be to run the sandwich
Right???
You might be right, i haven't heard of anyone running both but i could be wrong, although once you have thegauge that should be all you need, unless you're concerned about keeping it stock or at least replaceable
Whats that black box thing on the strut tower?
my horn? it's on the right hand side strut tower if that's what you meant
can i use the fuse tap to get the power？
yes !
@@lk-auto thank you
Where did you get this specific gage at
glowshiftdirect.com
How good is the sandwich plate on high rpm runs
@@wesleyyang5941 I haven't been able to test it yet as the project is still in progress but i've personally seen others use these as well as plenty of videos of people running these on boosted motors with no problems