I bought a mallory distributor that is aluminium and wasnt cheap. I also bought a cheap aluminum one off Amazon that was like 40 bucks. The only difference that I can tell is the Mallory sticker. Great video btw..
Summit Racing Accel $188.00 as of 7-27-2022 . It also takes the slight shake and shimmy out of it when idling . The truck always did it . Now smooth as a clock !
I have the same tahoe 99 same color too I cant getbit to pass emmisions it has the p1345 code it's always had this code I have owned this Tahoe for 6 years now and always passed with that code on, now it wont hc and co is too over the limit I replaced the cap and rotor two years ago never changed the distributor think I need a new distributor not sure what to do and I've never replaced distributor before any help would be great thank you I just subbed to not sure if I need a new distributor or just a tool scanner to adjust the timing to 0 or close to it
How does the scan tool work? I’m not willing to buy a $2000 thing for one time I’m going to use it. Is it a OBD2 thing so I could buy a $300 one? Can you possibly rent them from a auto parts store?
I doubt a 300$ tool will have the programs on it to do this procedure. Autozone does not have a tool like this. They have a code reader. That is not the same as a diagnostic tool. Your best bet would be to just take it to a local shop that has a computor that can set the timing. It should not cost you more than 50$
Actually yes this can be done by any obd software that can see your timing, I've done it multiple times with only my obdlink. Cost to me? 150 bucks in Canada for the obdlink which I've used countless times for many other applications
@@573customs6 I was afraid that might be the case. Got a timing gun coming in and I going to see if the timing is jumping around. Been fighting this problem for 6 months.
When you turn your distributor what part exactly of the distributor are you turning ? im planning on changing mine but i never seen what/where exactly to grab and turn ?
@@573customs6 my dad has the 96 and he is having issues with it staying in time. While watching your video it reminded me of the shaft gear and how over time it wears thin and won't keep time. Anyway yeah on that year model (96) you have to do the relearn procedure for the cam/crank relearn. Great video though.!!!!
If you have a snap on diagnostic machine it will show you what rpm you are at somwhere on the same list i show in the video. If your using a different brand it may not show you rpm. Just rev the vehicle pretty high and you will be good. It doesnt have to be dead on as long as its above the recommended rpm
I bought mine used on ebay for around $1500. Its only updated to 2015 at the moment. 2 years worth of updates cost $1000 and only person that can do the update is snap on.
You can still get it close enough to run right without the scan tool but the only way to set it correctly and right on the money is with a scan tool. Most automotive or transmission shops will have the tool to set it.
Yeah I took it to a shop for timing. They told me $60 over the phone. But when I got there after the job was done they were trying to tell me $120 because they had to take out and reposition the distributor. Wasn’t having it. Left paying them $60
@@573customs6 I watched someone set one today with the same scan tool. Didnt notice the rpm requirement, or him performing it, but also there was one in the truck and one turning the distributor why I spectated. I'm struggling to understand what's going on here with this setup, but believe I understand. I do know that cam retard isnt the actual camshaft location, but just where the sensor is is in relation to the camshaft, so it's a misleading parameter title, to me. Question, if I wanted to increase the base/initial timing through the distributor, is turning the distributor advancing or retarding that by throwing off the cps? Compared to a traditional setup I'm unsure. Or would the computer neglect it and compensate trying to keep it to a base program it doesnt want altered? Any insight you could give would be awesome. Thanks.
@@garlandjones7709 From personal experience on this tahoe i had a wore distributor gear and could only get the timing within 12 degrees of my target 0 degrees. It ran fine with no issues. Normally if its out any more than that it would cause a slight bucking when at highway speeds going uphill under load. When id floor it the bucking would go away. I dont know a ton about these vortec engines but hope that helps you.
I bought a mallory distributor that is aluminium and wasnt cheap. I also bought a cheap aluminum one off Amazon that was like 40 bucks. The only difference that I can tell is the Mallory sticker. Great video btw..
But my question for you is where did you get the aluminum distributor. All I could find for my 96 k1500 was a plastic echlin brand at a napa
Ebay. I beleive jegs and summit also sell them
Amazon has a bunch started at $43
I bought my aluminum shaft distributor at O'Reilly. It wasn't cheap in the neighbor hood of $150.
UNITED MOTOR PRODUCTS 9362
Summit Racing Accel $188.00 as of 7-27-2022 . It also takes the slight shake and shimmy out of it when idling . The truck always did it . Now smooth as a clock !
I have the same tahoe 99 same color too I cant getbit to pass emmisions it has the p1345 code it's always had this code I have owned this Tahoe for 6 years now and always passed with that code on, now it wont hc and co is too over the limit I replaced the cap and rotor two years ago never changed the distributor think I need a new distributor not sure what to do and I've never replaced distributor before any help would be great thank you I just subbed to not sure if I need a new distributor or just a tool scanner to adjust the timing to 0 or close to it
How does the scan tool work? I’m not willing to buy a $2000 thing for one time I’m going to use it. Is it a OBD2 thing so I could buy a $300 one? Can you possibly rent them from a auto parts store?
I doubt a 300$ tool will have the programs on it to do this procedure. Autozone does not have a tool like this. They have a code reader. That is not the same as a diagnostic tool. Your best bet would be to just take it to a local shop that has a computor that can set the timing. It should not cost you more than 50$
I paid alot more than $2k for this scan tool. Lol. It also costs $1000 every 2 years to update it.
@@573customs6 ok. Thanks!
Actually yes this can be done by any obd software that can see your timing, I've done it multiple times with only my obdlink. Cost to me? 150 bucks in Canada for the obdlink which I've used countless times for many other applications
I've got a 1999 GMC K1500 Suburban with 5.7L engine. Can I use a timing gun to set timing? Having a rough idle after warm up.
If it is the 5.7 vortec engine the timing has to bee done by computor.
@@573customs6 I was afraid that might be the case. Got a timing gun coming in and I going to see if the timing is jumping around. Been fighting this problem for 6 months.
When you turn your distributor what part exactly of the distributor are you turning ? im planning on changing mine but i never seen what/where exactly to grab and turn ?
Grab ahold of the distributor cap and turn whole distributor.
When turning the distributor do u have to lift it up or no
No
You forgot to do the cam/crank relearn procedure. Rev the engine up to 4k rpms and let off.......you're welcome 😊
No need to. It runs perfect. Some might require it but mine did not.
@@573customs6 my dad has the 96 and he is having issues with it staying in time. While watching your video it reminded me of the shaft gear and how over time it wears thin and won't keep time. Anyway yeah on that year model (96) you have to do the relearn procedure for the cam/crank relearn. Great video though.!!!!
@@charlieritchel1492 i bet his issue is the distributor gear. Very common for the vortec engines.
how do u set your rmp to 1000 if your tacometer is bad it dosnt read correctly
If you have a snap on diagnostic machine it will show you what rpm you are at somwhere on the same list i show in the video. If your using a different brand it may not show you rpm. Just rev the vehicle pretty high and you will be good. It doesnt have to be dead on as long as its above the recommended rpm
@@573customs6 thx
where can i find that scan tool?
I bought mine used on ebay for around $1500. Its only updated to 2015 at the moment. 2 years worth of updates cost $1000 and only person that can do the update is snap on.
Do you remember what brand the distributor was? Would rather put a metal one in mine over the plastic
I dont remember. I do know the body of it wall aluminum
UNITED MOTOR PRODUCTS 9362
@@573customs6 Maybe Accel?
I dont remember. Im pretty sure it was just a random ebay dizzy
All you loosened was the 13 m bolt on the block to move the cap eh
What if u don’t have that scan tool?
You can still get it close enough to run right without the scan tool but the only way to set it correctly and right on the money is with a scan tool. Most automotive or transmission shops will have the tool to set it.
Yeah I took it to a shop for timing. They told me $60 over the phone. But when I got there after the job was done they were trying to tell me $120 because they had to take out and reposition the distributor. Wasn’t having it. Left paying them $60
Why do you have to be at 1000+rpm to set it instead of factory idle
Im not completley sure why. Thats just what the snap on diagnostic machine tells me to do when performing this procedure
@@573customs6 I watched someone set one today with the same scan tool. Didnt notice the rpm requirement, or him performing it, but also there was one in the truck and one turning the distributor why I spectated.
I'm struggling to understand what's going on here with this setup, but believe I understand. I do know that cam retard isnt the actual camshaft location, but just where the sensor is is in relation to the camshaft, so it's a misleading parameter title, to me.
Question, if I wanted to increase the base/initial timing through the distributor, is turning the distributor advancing or retarding that by throwing off the cps? Compared to a traditional setup I'm unsure. Or would the computer neglect it and compensate trying to keep it to a base program it doesnt want altered? Any insight you could give would be awesome. Thanks.
@@garlandjones7709 From personal experience on this tahoe i had a wore distributor gear and could only get the timing within 12 degrees of my target 0 degrees. It ran fine with no issues. Normally if its out any more than that it would cause a slight bucking when at highway speeds going uphill under load. When id floor it the bucking would go away. I dont know a ton about these vortec engines but hope that helps you.
💖🐇🦄💯🤟
420 pm on scan tool
Lmao
Hi
Whats up buttercup.lol