The clutch assembly seems to be out of stock almost all the time. R&Y has stopped showing them on there website. Heres a link to the correct part on Amazon. Also, if you own a hybrid, its a totally different compressor and nothing applies to you in the video (sorry). RYC A/C Compressor Clutch AFG389-01-CL (Fits Chrysler Pacifica 3.6L 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022; Fits Chrysler Voyager 3.6L 2020, 2021, 2022) a.co/d/06rpwC0I ***NOT TALKED ABOUT IN THE VIDEO: My AC stopped working for a 3rd time. I performed the 3 tests under the hood and everything pointed to the coil being bad again. I took the passenger side wheel off and tested the resistance at the AC clutch coil. the resistance was within spec. I did more testing. I was able to confirm the connector for the AC clutch coil was bad. I found the part online and was able to replace the connector for $12. it fixes the problem for good. PLEASE TEST RESISTANCE AT THE AC CLUTCH COIL BEFORE REPLACEMENT. it is very hard to test when installed in the car due to how small the pins are. you can zip tie your leads together to help them stay in place and not touch each other. The other option is to check the coil after removal on a bench so you can make sure your leads are touching the pins. It would be good practice to replace the connector and the clutch assembly at the same time. a link to the correct part will be linked below. If you replace the clutch assembly and it stops working a few weeks later, that's a sign the connector is bad. Link to the connector: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-2-terminal-electrical-connector/std0/s2860/v/a/143437/automotive-van-2018-chrysler-pacifica?q=VVT+SOLENOID+CONNECTOR&pos=2# Link to the AC clutch assembly: RYC A/C Compressor Clutch AFG389-01-CL (Fits Chrysler Pacifica 3.6L 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022; Fits Chrysler Voyager 3.6L 2020, 2021, 2022) a.co/d/cBrqcGg Serpentine belt diagram: www.pacificaforums.com/threads/serpentine-replacement.54352/ It appears R&Y compressors is running low on AC clutch assembly's. They don't have any new ones in stock. They have also started selling just coils on Amazon. It appears people are performing the repair and seeking them out. I'm not affiliated to them in any way, I dont get any money from you buying anything from the links I've posted. This is all for the greater good and to help you guys. It makes my day when you reply saying you fixed the problem yourself and saved thousands of dollars. Thank you for watching. I really hope these videos have helped you. Cool follow up video from a fellow DIYer!: ua-cam.com/video/xhAUCmmyEJ4/v-deo.htmlsi=R1CHlCjjj63ptRE8
The shop I went to quoted me 2600. I drove away with the mindset of youtube university will save me alot. I will be preforming these tests when I get home tonight.
Just used these test to determine my connector was bad, will be ordering tonight. Thank you fellow HVAC man. No way we could afford to have a shop do this. Thank you David Poole you are a modern day hero.
@@seansmith1203 $12 repair to fix something the dealer would quote $2500 for and not even solve the problem. I love when real diagnosis saves people $2488 dollars. Thanks for sharing, hearing the responses makes it all worth it
I just finished on my 2019 Touring L. Thank you for your video! I ordered an AFG389-01-CL off Amazon. So far so good. Slightly different than yours. Hope it keeps working. After fighting the puck removal with the three screwdrivers and levers, I went out and bought a 3 jaw puller. So much easier. I had to use it to pull the belt wheel piece as well. I also bought a cheap feeler gage set. Didn’t have to cut it. Just unbolted and took out a pair of feeler gauges for .5mm All tested good. What luck you posted these videos just days before I needed them. Thank you!
This is a great video! I just finished the job this weekend, and this video would have saved me a ton of time. The hardest part is getting the clutch plate off of the spline. I didn't have helpers so I made a makeshift gear puller to get mine off.
I just did this repair as instructed in the video. I tried replacing the plug first but that didn’t fix it unfortunately. Replaced coil, pulley, and clutch plate and it worked. I had to take the clutch plate off again as I am struggling with the air gap. The shims they sent, do not fit in the hole. I have loctite now and feeler gauges. Going to try again right now. Thanks for the video.
@@JoshLuchuck please tell me you saved the old shims. Use the old shims and the feeler gauge technique. You don't have to tighten the screw a lot, just enough to hold the gap. Good luck
Same thing here. The shims they sent do not fit in the hole. Thankfully I have the old shim (from what I could see, my old clutch only had 1 shim). Additionally, to note: their 2 shims (that didn't fit into the hole) seem to be only 1/4 the thickness of my original shim. I'll see if I can get a set of calipers and measure them.
@@David_Poole Thanks for the video and all the information, including this comment above "you don't have to tighten the screw alot". It doesn't make sense to not have it "tight", but... like said in video, that just seems to be how it is.
@@carldrew when I replaced with an OEM clutch assembly the first time, I was able to tighten a lot without it catching. The aftermarket assembly seems to have some hiccups. Hence why I emphasize the loctite to seem everything in place. Happy to help!
@@David_Poole Have you been able to figure out what part moves when the magnet engages? I can't figure it out, but if we knew, I think it would help understand the mind boggling part of why we have to use a feelers even though we have shims in place. Do you know what part actually shifts to allow the movement when the magnet engages? I realize the clutch moves over towards the pulley, but what is actually moving to make that possible? Is it that the shaft itself is designed in a way that it slides in and out of the compressor? For example, the shaft has a spring inside the compressor that is always pushing the shaft outward, which creates the gap, but when the magnet pulls on the clutch, it pulls with enough force to compress the spring inside the compressor and lets the shaft move inward pulling the clutch plate inward along with it and closing the gap? Or Is there something is the design of the clutch plate itself that permits it to flex/expands to close the gap? Or perhaps the bearing is designed in a way that it is what moves, and the magnet pulls it towards the clutch plate? Any thoughts?
Hey, I saw your thread on pacifica forums and watched this video and first want to thank you for taking the time to do this! On R&Y, theres 2 options, reman and new. They're both aftermarket so I'm assuming same brand, but which would you get? The reman says they test the coil first, the new doesn't say that. The cost difference is so small it's irrelevant. I saw that you said the complete compressor you bought had a faulty coil on it. I plan on buying the connector too just to have it. Thank you
My coil ohmed bad top and bottom. I used a short harmonic balancer puller for clutch plate. Leave 10mm bolt in but unthreaded almost all the way when using puller. Replaced only the coil because im cheap and is working good.
You can feel the refrigerant pipes going through the fire wall. One should be hot, while the other should be cold. If you check the pressures and can feel that the pipes are hot and cold, I would say the only other logical place to look is the blend door actuator.
Thanks for the quick reply. I did a quick test and touched the pipes it was not cold or hot. I need to get one of those AC recharge kit with pressure gauge.
@@JimmyAnwar the car uses r1234yf refrigerant, which is pricey and uses a different gauge set than r134a. Please come back to let us know what you find out
David. When I press the ac switch, the compressor spins. When I turn it off, the spinning stops, so I assume the compressor clutch is correct, however the system started blowing hot air. I'm thinking low Freon or freon leak. Opinion?
If the clutch is engaging, the best place to start would be refrigerant charge. the fact that the clutch is engaging is a good sign that you still have some pressure in the system. I'd buy a can of R-1234yf and the gauge set required to check refrigerant charge.
Great video… I checked for voltage at fuse F20, not getting any voltage on that fuse. Replaced with another fuse… checked for continuity on both fuses, still no voltage when Max AC is on, clutch clearly not engaging. Bad compressor? Bad clutch?
You need to check for resistance on The probe closer to the front of the car as seen in the video. With the engine cool, you should get a reading around 3.5 ohms. If you are not getting voltage to the AC clutch coil, then your issue is pertaining to something else. The best first place to look is the refrigerant charge.
Also, these vans are known for having oil/refrigerant leak from the compressor. If this is the source of your refrigerant loss, a new compressor may be in order. hard to say without more information. You should be able to take off the passenger side wheel and look at the compressor. you can see if there is oil on the AC compressor.
@@David_Poole I think the system has a small leak. Added a can of refrigerant, looks like she needs more, it was only at about 10 psi and it was 90 degrees out.
Use an impact gun. It will come right off. You can try using PB blaster and a torch to help free it a bit. Worst case scenario, you can buy an extraction socket if it fully strips
Update: I managed to get it replaced and put back together. Everything was fine for about a week then the same thing happened. I got fed up and wrenched the clutch down so it's permanently engaged. I'll revisit this problem in the fall. Thanks for your videos they really helped me out!
@@mattnesbit4002 I found issues with the connector, as the same thing happened to me. When you're ready to replace it, a link for the correct part is linked in the description. You won't find it if you look up "AC clutch coil connector". Hope this helps!
So my clutch engages intermittently on my pacifica. Sometimes it works other times it doesnt. I have seen some forums where a faulty ambiant temp sensor can be the cause. Im curious what your thoughts are, will a bad clutch work only sometimes on its way out? I thought maybe swap the temp sensor then the clutch connector first.
Look at your gauge cluster. It shows the ambient temperature. If the reading seems to be off, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it replaced first. It would also be good to check voltage, amperage and resistance at the F20 fuse before jumping to a diagnosis. Intermittent failure could be a bad connector as stated in my pinned comment, it could also imply low refrigerant charge, or sensor failure. Sadly I need more information before I can give a more solid answer
@@justinsmith4158 if the refrigerant charge is good. I'd personally be leaning towards the connector on the AC clutch, or the ambient temperature sensor. If the gauge cluster temp seems accurate, I think you have your answer. I have a link to the connector you need for the AC clutch. You won't find it if you look up "AC clutch coil connector" thank you for your nice comments about the video. Please report back with your findings so others can use it to help them in the future.
Temp on dash looks ok, it fluctuates randomly tho.... Fuse is fine and power is getting to both sides so I'll start with the clutch connector first. Just ordered the part so probably get to it next weekend.
@@justinsmith4158 did the temp reading on the dash jump around while the car was at a stop? I've found that if the car is not moving it will get wacky readings. If the readings are jittery while driving around that may be a sign it's giving you some fits. I haven't personally experienced ambient temperature sensor issues, hopefully the connector is the solution. Thank you for coming back with an update
Even with two people prying on all three tabs simultaneously, I can't get the clutch plate off. We can get a gap while prying, but no permanent progress. OEM AC Clutch Puller kit doesn't fit, and a 3-jaw Puller latches, but the plate doesn't pull free. So frustrating! Why does this clutch-plate have to be so much harder?!
Really sorry to hear that you're struggling. It was definitely difficult to get it off. Please come back and let us know how you eventually did it, and what tool you used if applicable to help the next person.
I was able to pull clutch myself using a 3-jaw puller, but had to go at it 4-5 times. To help make it possible to do on my own, I tightened the arms of the puller just enough so that they could barely be manipulated. This made it possible to get them to hold their place while I placed them onto the clutch. I thank God that on original clutch the 3 tabs stuck out a past the rest of the clutch unit. Unfortunately this is not the case on the new clutch unit, so removing it will be much more difficult in the future. The comment that said, "holding pressure on the 3 locations on clutch plate and tapping the plate" is a great idea. I didn't think about doing that.
My 2019 crysler Pacifica blows hot air . Dealer said the compressor ( 1600$ )need to be replaced and labor around 600$ . I guess they always replace the whole thing instead of repairing or replacing the part ( clutch, coil etc) . Not sure if it is good idea to go to local mechanic instead of dealer . Please advise. I also hear humming noise when I stop the car at dashboard and dealer said the actuator need to be replaced. I live in orlando Florida.
If you are unable to test/replace the air clutch coil yourself, you should try to find a person/shop who can test the AC clutch coil for you, and replace if necessary. It is very unlikely you need to replace the whole compressor. I wouldn't worry about the noise under the dash until you solve the AC clutch not engaging first.
the clutches seem in and out of stock (out of stock yesterday, a couple left today). Also some mixed reviews on their quality. If i do go the route of replacing the whole A/C compressor, do you think i should get a chrysler part or some after market part? Have you heard anything about them revising the parts if there have been these issues?
I highly doubt any revisions have been made on Chrysler's end, although I don't have any information to say one way or the other. You say that you may replace the whole compressor? If you want to replace the whole compressor, you can get the remanufactured one from r&y for cheap, in theory that would be OEM, just not new. The aftermarket clutch I got from r&y had issues. The spacers weren't the right size, one of the snap rings was incorrect, and I believe the issues I have at the end of the video with the clutch engaging when it shouldn't are due to the aftermarket part. All of these things make me lean towards OEM being the safer option as far as installation. When it comes to longevity and reliability, it's hard to say if any part will last. Do you intend on doing the clutch assembly, or the whole compressor?
@@David_Poole I'm not sure yet. I checked the couple things i could without taking the wheel off so far and it suggest the clutch coil. At least chrysler sells that part separately and it's about $350. i need to take the wheel off this weekend
@@timvadas1486 when you remove the wheel, look for oil on the compressor. Some people on the forums report needing to replace the compressor due to it leaking refrigerant. Oil on the compressor where the lines bolt in would be an indication the compressor is leaking refrigerant. That would be the only reason to replace the whole compressor. If it is dry, and the coil readings show OL, then I'd say your safe to just replace the coil/clutch assembly. If the coil ohms out good (3.5 ohms +/-10% when the engine is cold) you just need a new connector. Link for all this is in the description. Hope all goes well!
@@David_Poole Thanks. i'll cross my fingers it's just the connector, if only i could be that lucky! I'll check out r&y and may need to call them. some were out of stock, and hard to tell correct one from their website (i have a 2018 hybrid)
2017 Pacifica Gas model, same issue with not AC, compressor no engaging, all correct readings at the fuse panel. I ordered the R&Y coil for $105 off Amazon versus $415 for OEM at the dealer. Pulled the old coil off and got 1.5 Ohms. I am confident that is the issue. Clutch plate was a pain as a one man show but I used 2 flat head drivers equally spaced and evenly knocked them in to start a wedge. Tried using pry bar from above but couldnt get it to work and was worried about continuilly hitting it against a plastic coolant line. After 20 mins of battling i took all the drivers out and found the clutch plate released out easy. I was worried about spline damage with this method but i was out of options. Im installing the new parts tomorrow and will update.
When you say you had all the correct readings at the fuse panel, do you mean all your readings indicated the coil was bad, or that they indicated the coil is good? What was your resistance voltage and amperage when you checked it at the fuse box? You said the coil was 1.5 ohms when you checked it after removal, that is definitely way too low, although I'd expect a low resistance reading to lead to a high amp draw. If your resistance reading at the fuse panel was OL or anything higher than 2, I'd recommend replacing the AC clutch connector while your down there, $12 at O'Reilly's. see the description for a link. Thank you so much for commenting and adding to the internet knowledge pool on the subject. I look forward to hearing how things go tomorrow! Happy 4th You said you took all the drivers out and the clutch plate came off easy. I'm not sure what you mean by that, but I was hoping you could elaborate so others can possibly use the technique themselves.
@David_Poole All readings pointed towards the coil being the issue using guidance from your video. I don't remember the specific readings but as of now, the compressor is now running and blowing cold air. TIPS: The snap ring install was frustrating due to the cheap pair of pliers I was using. I bought a higher quality pair and it helped big time. Also, make sure you push the coil flush against the compressor to ensure you're giving yourself all the space you need to install the snap ring.
@@sydneyaf1117 nothing like ice cold AC for the 4th of July. Glad it all worked out. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment on your experience and helping others in the future
The clutch assembly seems to be out of stock almost all the time. R&Y has stopped showing them on there website. Heres a link to the correct part on Amazon. Also, if you own a hybrid, its a totally different compressor and nothing applies to you in the video (sorry).
RYC A/C Compressor Clutch AFG389-01-CL (Fits Chrysler Pacifica 3.6L 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022; Fits Chrysler Voyager 3.6L 2020, 2021, 2022) a.co/d/06rpwC0I
***NOT TALKED ABOUT IN THE VIDEO: My AC stopped working for a 3rd time. I performed the 3 tests under the hood and everything pointed to the coil being bad again. I took the passenger side wheel off and tested the resistance at the AC clutch coil. the resistance was within spec. I did more testing. I was able to confirm the connector for the AC clutch coil was bad. I found the part online and was able to replace the connector for $12. it fixes the problem for good. PLEASE TEST RESISTANCE AT THE AC CLUTCH COIL BEFORE REPLACEMENT. it is very hard to test when installed in the car due to how small the pins are. you can zip tie your leads together to help them stay in place and not touch each other. The other option is to check the coil after removal on a bench so you can make sure your leads are touching the pins. It would be good practice to replace the connector and the clutch assembly at the same time. a link to the correct part will be linked below. If you replace the clutch assembly and it stops working a few weeks later, that's a sign the connector is bad.
Link to the connector:
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-2-terminal-electrical-connector/std0/s2860/v/a/143437/automotive-van-2018-chrysler-pacifica?q=VVT+SOLENOID+CONNECTOR&pos=2#
Link to the AC clutch assembly:
RYC A/C Compressor Clutch AFG389-01-CL (Fits Chrysler Pacifica 3.6L 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022; Fits Chrysler Voyager 3.6L 2020, 2021, 2022) a.co/d/cBrqcGg
Serpentine belt diagram:
www.pacificaforums.com/threads/serpentine-replacement.54352/
It appears R&Y compressors is running low on AC clutch assembly's. They don't have any new ones in stock. They have also started selling just coils on Amazon. It appears people are performing the repair and seeking them out. I'm not affiliated to them in any way, I dont get any money from you buying anything from the links I've posted. This is all for the greater good and to help you guys. It makes my day when you reply saying you fixed the problem yourself and saved thousands of dollars. Thank you for watching. I really hope these videos have helped you.
Cool follow up video from a fellow DIYer!: ua-cam.com/video/xhAUCmmyEJ4/v-deo.htmlsi=R1CHlCjjj63ptRE8
The shop I went to quoted me 2600. I drove away with the mindset of youtube university will save me alot. I will be preforming these tests when I get home tonight.
What did you end up finding out?
Just used these test to determine my connector was bad, will be ordering tonight. Thank you fellow HVAC man. No way we could afford to have a shop do this. Thank you David Poole you are a modern day hero.
@@seansmith1203 $12 repair to fix something the dealer would quote $2500 for and not even solve the problem. I love when real diagnosis saves people $2488 dollars. Thanks for sharing, hearing the responses makes it all worth it
I second that comment! Dispite the gripes with the van, its guys like you that keep it running when you dread the thought of going to dealer. 🫡👊💪👍
I just finished on my 2019 Touring L. Thank you for your video!
I ordered an AFG389-01-CL off Amazon. So far so good. Slightly different than yours. Hope it keeps working.
After fighting the puck removal with the three screwdrivers and levers, I went out and bought a 3 jaw puller. So much easier. I had to use it to pull the belt wheel piece as well.
I also bought a cheap feeler gage set. Didn’t have to cut it. Just unbolted and took out a pair of feeler gauges for .5mm
All tested good. What luck you posted these videos just days before I needed them. Thank you!
Really awesome that you got yours replaced. Thank you for sharing your experience
I’m curious about the 3 jaw puller because I’m having issues with the screwdriver thing.
Great Video, I used your guide to help replace my clutch coil as well. Been two weeks now and all is working!
Just replaced the clutch assembly in my wife’s van and I owe it all to you brother. Thank you 🙌🏼
@@skylerjones8958 ice cold AC go Burr ❄️
Great video. I had the same issue with the clutch when disengaged. Getting the feeler gauge tomorrow and hopefully get that gap set.
This is a great video! I just finished the job this weekend, and this video would have saved me a ton of time. The hardest part is getting the clutch plate off of the spline. I didn't have helpers so I made a makeshift gear puller to get mine off.
How did you make a gear puller
@@calvinholder2223 I added an ac clutch puller to the description. Hope this helps
That helper looks a lot like you 😮
I just did this repair as instructed in the video. I tried replacing the plug first but that didn’t fix it unfortunately. Replaced coil, pulley, and clutch plate and it worked. I had to take the clutch plate off again as I am struggling with the air gap. The shims they sent, do not fit in the hole. I have loctite now and feeler gauges. Going to try again right now. Thanks for the video.
@@JoshLuchuck please tell me you saved the old shims. Use the old shims and the feeler gauge technique. You don't have to tighten the screw a lot, just enough to hold the gap. Good luck
Same thing here. The shims they sent do not fit in the hole. Thankfully I have the old shim (from what I could see, my old clutch only had 1 shim). Additionally, to note: their 2 shims (that didn't fit into the hole) seem to be only 1/4 the thickness of my original shim. I'll see if I can get a set of calipers and measure them.
@@David_Poole Thanks for the video and all the information, including this comment above "you don't have to tighten the screw alot". It doesn't make sense to not have it "tight", but... like said in video, that just seems to be how it is.
@@carldrew when I replaced with an OEM clutch assembly the first time, I was able to tighten a lot without it catching. The aftermarket assembly seems to have some hiccups. Hence why I emphasize the loctite to seem everything in place.
Happy to help!
@@David_Poole Have you been able to figure out what part moves when the magnet engages? I can't figure it out, but if we knew, I think it would help understand the mind boggling part of why we have to use a feelers even though we have shims in place. Do you know what part actually shifts to allow the movement when the magnet engages? I realize the clutch moves over towards the pulley, but what is actually moving to make that possible? Is it that the shaft itself is designed in a way that it slides in and out of the compressor? For example, the shaft has a spring inside the compressor that is always pushing the shaft outward, which creates the gap, but when the magnet pulls on the clutch, it pulls with enough force to compress the spring inside the compressor and lets the shaft move inward pulling the clutch plate inward along with it and closing the gap? Or Is there something is the design of the clutch plate itself that permits it to flex/expands to close the gap? Or perhaps the bearing is designed in a way that it is what moves, and the magnet pulls it towards the clutch plate? Any thoughts?
Hey, I saw your thread on pacifica forums and watched this video and first want to thank you for taking the time to do this! On R&Y, theres 2 options, reman and new. They're both aftermarket so I'm assuming same brand, but which would you get? The reman says they test the coil first, the new doesn't say that. The cost difference is so small it's irrelevant. I saw that you said the complete compressor you bought had a faulty coil on it. I plan on buying the connector too just to have it. Thank you
@@rayraiburn I would go with new. The remanufactured set would most likely have an OEM coil, which appears to be not of high quality.
My coil ohmed bad top and bottom. I used a short harmonic balancer puller for clutch plate. Leave 10mm bolt in but unthreaded almost all the way when using puller. Replaced only the coil because im cheap and is working good.
Thanks for all the info. My AC clutch engages but blows hot air. I checked the fuse got 14v then checked resistance 5 ohms.
If your AC clutch is engaging, but blowing hot air, the issue is most likely refrigerant
You can feel the refrigerant pipes going through the fire wall. One should be hot, while the other should be cold.
If you check the pressures and can feel that the pipes are hot and cold, I would say the only other logical place to look is the blend door actuator.
Thanks for the quick reply. I did a quick test and touched the pipes it was not cold or hot.
I need to get one of those AC recharge kit with pressure gauge.
@@JimmyAnwar the car uses r1234yf refrigerant, which is pricey and uses a different gauge set than r134a. Please come back to let us know what you find out
David. When I press the ac switch, the compressor spins. When I turn it off, the spinning stops, so I assume the compressor clutch is correct, however the system started blowing hot air. I'm thinking low Freon or freon leak. Opinion?
If the clutch is engaging, the best place to start would be refrigerant charge. the fact that the clutch is engaging is a good sign that you still have some pressure in the system. I'd buy a can of R-1234yf and the gauge set required to check refrigerant charge.
Great video… I checked for voltage at fuse F20, not getting any voltage on that fuse. Replaced with another fuse… checked for continuity on both fuses, still no voltage when Max AC is on, clutch clearly not engaging. Bad compressor? Bad clutch?
You need to check for resistance on The probe closer to the front of the car as seen in the video. With the engine cool, you should get a reading around 3.5 ohms. If you are not getting voltage to the AC clutch coil, then your issue is pertaining to something else. The best first place to look is the refrigerant charge.
Also, these vans are known for having oil/refrigerant leak from the compressor. If this is the source of your refrigerant loss, a new compressor may be in order. hard to say without more information. You should be able to take off the passenger side wheel and look at the compressor. you can see if there is oil on the AC compressor.
@@David_Poole thanks for the feedback, all great info… much appreciated. I’ll have to charge the system or at least check the pressure
@@Bluezkat1any updates on how things went?
@@David_Poole I think the system has a small leak. Added a can of refrigerant, looks like she needs more, it was only at about 10 psi and it was 90 degrees out.
No Jack Stands???? You guys are nuts.
@@JamesAgans I state in the video that it's dumb, and of course I recommend people use a jack stand
I cant get the 10mil bolt off. Afraid im gonna strip it if i keep trying
Use an impact gun. It will come right off. You can try using PB blaster and a torch to help free it a bit.
Worst case scenario, you can buy an extraction socket if it fully strips
Update: I managed to get it replaced and put back together. Everything was fine for about a week then the same thing happened. I got fed up and wrenched the clutch down so it's permanently engaged. I'll revisit this problem in the fall. Thanks for your videos they really helped me out!
@@mattnesbit4002 I found issues with the connector, as the same thing happened to me. When you're ready to replace it, a link for the correct part is linked in the description. You won't find it if you look up "AC clutch coil connector". Hope this helps!
So my clutch engages intermittently on my pacifica. Sometimes it works other times it doesnt. I have seen some forums where a faulty ambiant temp sensor can be the cause. Im curious what your thoughts are, will a bad clutch work only sometimes on its way out? I thought maybe swap the temp sensor then the clutch connector first.
Look at your gauge cluster. It shows the ambient temperature. If the reading seems to be off, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it replaced first. It would also be good to check voltage, amperage and resistance at the F20 fuse before jumping to a diagnosis. Intermittent failure could be a bad connector as stated in my pinned comment, it could also imply low refrigerant charge, or sensor failure. Sadly I need more information before I can give a more solid answer
@@David_Poole I already checked the refrigerant and that is good, I'll try the fuse too, great video btw! Super helpful
@@justinsmith4158 if the refrigerant charge is good. I'd personally be leaning towards the connector on the AC clutch, or the ambient temperature sensor. If the gauge cluster temp seems accurate, I think you have your answer. I have a link to the connector you need for the AC clutch. You won't find it if you look up "AC clutch coil connector" thank you for your nice comments about the video. Please report back with your findings so others can use it to help them in the future.
Temp on dash looks ok, it fluctuates randomly tho.... Fuse is fine and power is getting to both sides so I'll start with the clutch connector first. Just ordered the part so probably get to it next weekend.
@@justinsmith4158 did the temp reading on the dash jump around while the car was at a stop? I've found that if the car is not moving it will get wacky readings. If the readings are jittery while driving around that may be a sign it's giving you some fits.
I haven't personally experienced ambient temperature sensor issues, hopefully the connector is the solution. Thank you for coming back with an update
Even with two people prying on all three tabs simultaneously, I can't get the clutch plate off. We can get a gap while prying, but no permanent progress. OEM AC Clutch Puller kit doesn't fit, and a 3-jaw Puller latches, but the plate doesn't pull free. So frustrating! Why does this clutch-plate have to be so much harder?!
Really sorry to hear that you're struggling. It was definitely difficult to get it off. Please come back and let us know how you eventually did it, and what tool you used if applicable to help the next person.
I found that holding pressure on the 3 locations on clutch plate and tapping the plate helped. It required 3 people for that task.
I was able to pull clutch myself using a 3-jaw puller, but had to go at it 4-5 times. To help make it possible to do on my own, I tightened the arms of the puller just enough so that they could barely be manipulated. This made it possible to get them to hold their place while I placed them onto the clutch. I thank God that on original clutch the 3 tabs stuck out a past the rest of the clutch unit. Unfortunately this is not the case on the new clutch unit, so removing it will be much more difficult in the future. The comment that said, "holding pressure on the 3 locations on clutch plate and tapping the plate" is a great idea. I didn't think about doing that.
Do you have a link for the multimeter with long leads
@@michaelfraher1106 the multimeter I'm using in this video is a fieldpiece sc680. It's rather expensive at $382
@@David_Poole that's the one with the long leads?
@@michaelfraher1106 the leads are at least 36" long. It's a great meter
Are those 5 inch size snap ring pliers?
I'd say they're closer to 8" in length. They are the largest pair of an icon set I bought at harbor freight
Definitely need a large set
My 2019 crysler Pacifica blows hot air . Dealer said the compressor ( 1600$ )need to be replaced and labor around 600$ . I guess they always replace the whole thing instead of repairing or replacing the part ( clutch, coil etc) .
Not sure if it is good idea to go to local mechanic instead of dealer .
Please advise.
I also hear humming noise when I stop the car at dashboard and dealer said the actuator need to be replaced.
I live in orlando Florida.
If you are unable to test/replace the air clutch coil yourself, you should try to find a person/shop who can test the AC clutch coil for you, and replace if necessary. It is very unlikely you need to replace the whole compressor. I wouldn't worry about the noise under the dash until you solve the AC clutch not engaging first.
Thanks a lot for the advise.
One last question please. Can they test clutch and coil without removing from compressor? Or they need to be removed before they can test ?
@@hussainimca it can be tested without being removed. Send them my video, it will help them solve the problem a lot faster.
Thanks a lot. Appreciate your guidance.
the clutches seem in and out of stock (out of stock yesterday, a couple left today). Also some mixed reviews on their quality. If i do go the route of replacing the whole A/C compressor, do you think i should get a chrysler part or some after market part? Have you heard anything about them revising the parts if there have been these issues?
I highly doubt any revisions have been made on Chrysler's end, although I don't have any information to say one way or the other. You say that you may replace the whole compressor? If you want to replace the whole compressor, you can get the remanufactured one from r&y for cheap, in theory that would be OEM, just not new.
The aftermarket clutch I got from r&y had issues. The spacers weren't the right size, one of the snap rings was incorrect, and I believe the issues I have at the end of the video with the clutch engaging when it shouldn't are due to the aftermarket part. All of these things make me lean towards OEM being the safer option as far as installation. When it comes to longevity and reliability, it's hard to say if any part will last.
Do you intend on doing the clutch assembly, or the whole compressor?
@@David_Poole I'm not sure yet. I checked the couple things i could without taking the wheel off so far and it suggest the clutch coil. At least chrysler sells that part separately and it's about $350. i need to take the wheel off this weekend
@@timvadas1486 when you remove the wheel, look for oil on the compressor. Some people on the forums report needing to replace the compressor due to it leaking refrigerant. Oil on the compressor where the lines bolt in would be an indication the compressor is leaking refrigerant. That would be the only reason to replace the whole compressor. If it is dry, and the coil readings show OL, then I'd say your safe to just replace the coil/clutch assembly.
If the coil ohms out good (3.5 ohms +/-10% when the engine is cold) you just need a new connector. Link for all this is in the description. Hope all goes well!
Also, r&y sells just the coil for a lot less. I would go with r&y if you just wanna do the coil
@@David_Poole Thanks. i'll cross my fingers it's just the connector, if only i could be that lucky! I'll check out r&y and may need to call them. some were out of stock, and hard to tell correct one from their website (i have a 2018 hybrid)
2017 Pacifica Gas model, same issue with not AC, compressor no engaging, all correct readings at the fuse panel.
I ordered the R&Y coil for $105 off Amazon versus $415 for OEM at the dealer. Pulled the old coil off and got 1.5 Ohms. I am confident that is the issue.
Clutch plate was a pain as a one man show but I used 2 flat head drivers equally spaced and evenly knocked them in to start a wedge. Tried using pry bar from above but couldnt get it to work and was worried about continuilly hitting it against a plastic coolant line.
After 20 mins of battling i took all the drivers out and found the clutch plate released out easy. I was worried about spline damage with this method but i was out of options.
Im installing the new parts tomorrow and will update.
When you say you had all the correct readings at the fuse panel, do you mean all your readings indicated the coil was bad, or that they indicated the coil is good? What was your resistance voltage and amperage when you checked it at the fuse box? You said the coil was 1.5 ohms when you checked it after removal, that is definitely way too low, although I'd expect a low resistance reading to lead to a high amp draw. If your resistance reading at the fuse panel was OL or anything higher than 2, I'd recommend replacing the AC clutch connector while your down there, $12 at O'Reilly's. see the description for a link.
Thank you so much for commenting and adding to the internet knowledge pool on the subject. I look forward to hearing how things go tomorrow! Happy 4th
You said you took all the drivers out and the clutch plate came off easy. I'm not sure what you mean by that, but I was hoping you could elaborate so others can possibly use the technique themselves.
@David_Poole All readings pointed towards the coil being the issue using guidance from your video.
I don't remember the specific readings but as of now, the compressor is now running and blowing cold air.
TIPS: The snap ring install was frustrating due to the cheap pair of pliers I was using. I bought a higher quality pair and it helped big time. Also, make sure you push the coil flush against the compressor to ensure you're giving yourself all the space you need to install the snap ring.
@@sydneyaf1117 nothing like ice cold AC for the 4th of July. Glad it all worked out. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment on your experience and helping others in the future
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This car is just a piece of trash with issues after another.
Facts
Horrible car. I wish I new before I could have bought odyssey, carnival , or Toyota