Відео

If the clutch is engaging, the best place to start would be refrigerant charge. the fact that the clutch is engaging is a good sign that you still have some pressure in the system. I'd buy a can of R-1234yf and the gauge set required to check refrigerant charge.

@@skylerjones8958 ice cold AC go Burr ❄️

@@seansmith1203 $12 repair to fix something the dealer would quote $2500 for and not even solve the problem. I love when real diagnosis saves people $2488 dollars. Thanks for sharing, hearing the responses makes it all worth it

I second that comment! Dispite the gripes with the van, its guys like you that keep it running when you dread the thought of going to dealer. 🫡👊💪👍

@@badger519 I cover issues surrounding the connector in the comments/description of my other video on my channel.

@@JoshLuchuck please tell me you saved the old shims. Use the old shims and the feeler gauge technique. You don't have to tighten the screw a lot, just enough to hold the gap. Good luck

Same thing here. The shims they sent do not fit in the hole. Thankfully I have the old shim (from what I could see, my old clutch only had 1 shim). Additionally, to note: their 2 shims (that didn't fit into the hole) seem to be only 1/4 the thickness of my original shim. I'll see if I can get a set of calipers and measure them.

@@David_Poole Thanks for the video and all the information, including this comment above "you don't have to tighten the screw alot". It doesn't make sense to not have it "tight", but... like said in video, that just seems to be how it is.

@@carldrew when I replaced with an OEM clutch assembly the first time, I was able to tighten a lot without it catching. The aftermarket assembly seems to have some hiccups. Hence why I emphasize the loctite to seem everything in place. Happy to help!

​@@David_Poole Have you been able to figure out what part moves when the magnet engages? I can't figure it out, but if we knew, I think it would help understand the mind boggling part of why we have to use a feelers even though we have shims in place. Do you know what part actually shifts to allow the movement when the magnet engages? I realize the clutch moves over towards the pulley, but what is actually moving to make that possible? Is it that the shaft itself is designed in a way that it slides in and out of the compressor? For example, the shaft has a spring inside the compressor that is always pushing the shaft outward, which creates the gap, but when the magnet pulls on the clutch, it pulls with enough force to compress the spring inside the compressor and lets the shaft move inward pulling the clutch plate inward along with it and closing the gap? Or Is there something is the design of the clutch plate itself that permits it to flex/expands to close the gap? Or perhaps the bearing is designed in a way that it is what moves, and the magnet pulls it towards the clutch plate? Any thoughts?

@@rayraiburn I would go with new. The remanufactured set would most likely have an OEM coil, which appears to be not of high quality.

@@Bandwidth2024 not sure I understand what you mean?

@@danhp4926 if they are able to turn on the compressor using other means, then it wouldn't be the clutch coil. When the coil fails, there is no way to get the compressor to engage through computer programming. You can check the coil yourself from the fuse box to see if it's within spec. Go to my channel to see my other video going over how to do this. Any basic multimeter should be able to check resistance

You may be having an issue with the ambient air temp sensor. If it's messed up the compressor won't engage. Might be worth asking them if they've checked it

Will do. Thanks very much. I will check out your other video.

@@michaelfraher1106 the multimeter I'm using in this video is a fieldpiece sc680. It's rather expensive at $382

@@David_Poole that's the one with the long leads?

@@michaelfraher1106 the leads are at least 36" long. It's a great meter

@@glitch0156 I wish mechanics would learn to do the same

@@IneedDisforwork I appreciate that. If you go to my channel, I've made a much more in depth video. For some reason Google doesn't show it as the first result despite it being the much better video. Hope it helps!

@@JamesAgans I state in the video that it's dumb, and of course I recommend people use a jack stand

When you say you had all the correct readings at the fuse panel, do you mean all your readings indicated the coil was bad, or that they indicated the coil is good? What was your resistance voltage and amperage when you checked it at the fuse box? You said the coil was 1.5 ohms when you checked it after removal, that is definitely way too low, although I'd expect a low resistance reading to lead to a high amp draw. If your resistance reading at the fuse panel was OL or anything higher than 2, I'd recommend replacing the AC clutch connector while your down there, $12 at O'Reilly's. see the description for a link. Thank you so much for commenting and adding to the internet knowledge pool on the subject. I look forward to hearing how things go tomorrow! Happy 4th You said you took all the drivers out and the clutch plate came off easy. I'm not sure what you mean by that, but I was hoping you could elaborate so others can possibly use the technique themselves.

@David_Poole All readings pointed towards the coil being the issue using guidance from your video. I don't remember the specific readings but as of now, the compressor is now running and blowing cold air. TIPS: The snap ring install was frustrating due to the cheap pair of pliers I was using. I bought a higher quality pair and it helped big time. Also, make sure you push the coil flush against the compressor to ensure you're giving yourself all the space you need to install the snap ring.

@@sydneyaf1117 nothing like ice cold AC for the 4th of July. Glad it all worked out. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment on your experience and helping others in the future

ua-cam.com/video/xhAUCmmyEJ4/v-deo.htmlsi=pj54QQauPDZh2U5g

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I'd say they're closer to 8" in length. They are the largest pair of an icon set I bought at harbor freight

Definitely need a large set

A link is in the description

RYC New A/C Compressor Clutch Coil AFH389-CO (Fits Chrysler Pacifica 3.6L 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022; Fits Chrysler Voyager 3.6L 2020, 2021, 2022) a.co/d/01huK763

Thanks a lot . I do not mind to pay 100$ dollar if it is from mopar . Do you recommend mopar or aftermarket? Thx in advance

@@hussainimca the Mopar part is significantly more expensive, but may end up being the only one in stock if you are looking for a whole clutch assembly. R&Y compressors seems to only have the coils in stock, and only on Amazon. I tried to look up the clutch assembly on their website but didn't find anything. Implying they are out of stock. I don't think it matters which way you go. OEM or aftermarket are going to be damn near the same part.

Thanks a lot sir

Really sorry to hear that you're struggling. It was definitely difficult to get it off. Please come back and let us know how you eventually did it, and what tool you used if applicable to help the next person.

I found that holding pressure on the 3 locations on clutch plate and tapping the plate helped. It required 3 people for that task.

I was able to pull clutch myself using a 3-jaw puller, but had to go at it 4-5 times. To help make it possible to do on my own, I tightened the arms of the puller just enough so that they could barely be manipulated. This made it possible to get them to hold their place while I placed them onto the clutch. I thank God that on original clutch the 3 tabs stuck out a past the rest of the clutch unit. Unfortunately this is not the case on the new clutch unit, so removing it will be much more difficult in the future. The comment that said, "holding pressure on the 3 locations on clutch plate and tapping the plate" is a great idea. I didn't think about doing that.

If your AC clutch is engaging, but blowing hot air, the issue is most likely refrigerant

You can feel the refrigerant pipes going through the fire wall. One should be hot, while the other should be cold. If you check the pressures and can feel that the pipes are hot and cold, I would say the only other logical place to look is the blend door actuator.

Thanks for the quick reply. I did a quick test and touched the pipes it was not cold or hot. I need to get one of those AC recharge kit with pressure gauge.

@@JimmyAnwar the car uses r1234yf refrigerant, which is pricey and uses a different gauge set than r134a. Please come back to let us know what you find out

You need to check for resistance on The probe closer to the front of the car as seen in the video. With the engine cool, you should get a reading around 3.5 ohms. If you are not getting voltage to the AC clutch coil, then your issue is pertaining to something else. The best first place to look is the refrigerant charge.

Also, these vans are known for having oil/refrigerant leak from the compressor. If this is the source of your refrigerant loss, a new compressor may be in order. hard to say without more information. You should be able to take off the passenger side wheel and look at the compressor. you can see if there is oil on the AC compressor.

@@David_Poole thanks for the feedback, all great info… much appreciated. I’ll have to charge the system or at least check the pressure

​@@Bluezkat1any updates on how things went?

@@David_Poole I think the system has a small leak. Added a can of refrigerant, looks like she needs more, it was only at about 10 psi and it was 90 degrees out.

This issue was happening brand new out of the box.

Your tip leveraging the 3-jaw Puller against the loosely threaded clutch plate bolt was a lifesaver-thank you!

Idk how I missed this comment but thank you for all the great advice. Gonna be a life saver for many out there

What did you end up finding out?

If you are unable to test/replace the air clutch coil yourself, you should try to find a person/shop who can test the AC clutch coil for you, and replace if necessary. It is very unlikely you need to replace the whole compressor. I wouldn't worry about the noise under the dash until you solve the AC clutch not engaging first.

Thanks a lot for the advise.

One last question please. Can they test clutch and coil without removing from compressor? Or they need to be removed before they can test ?

@@hussainimca it can be tested without being removed. Send them my video, it will help them solve the problem a lot faster.

Thanks a lot. Appreciate your guidance.

I highly doubt any revisions have been made on Chrysler's end, although I don't have any information to say one way or the other. You say that you may replace the whole compressor? If you want to replace the whole compressor, you can get the remanufactured one from r&y for cheap, in theory that would be OEM, just not new. The aftermarket clutch I got from r&y had issues. The spacers weren't the right size, one of the snap rings was incorrect, and I believe the issues I have at the end of the video with the clutch engaging when it shouldn't are due to the aftermarket part. All of these things make me lean towards OEM being the safer option as far as installation. When it comes to longevity and reliability, it's hard to say if any part will last. Do you intend on doing the clutch assembly, or the whole compressor?

@@David_Poole I'm not sure yet. I checked the couple things i could without taking the wheel off so far and it suggest the clutch coil. At least chrysler sells that part separately and it's about $350. i need to take the wheel off this weekend

@@timvadas1486 when you remove the wheel, look for oil on the compressor. Some people on the forums report needing to replace the compressor due to it leaking refrigerant. Oil on the compressor where the lines bolt in would be an indication the compressor is leaking refrigerant. That would be the only reason to replace the whole compressor. If it is dry, and the coil readings show OL, then I'd say your safe to just replace the coil/clutch assembly. If the coil ohms out good (3.5 ohms +/-10% when the engine is cold) you just need a new connector. Link for all this is in the description. Hope all goes well!

Also, r&y sells just the coil for a lot less. I would go with r&y if you just wanna do the coil

@@David_Poole Thanks. i'll cross my fingers it's just the connector, if only i could be that lucky! I'll check out r&y and may need to call them. some were out of stock, and hard to tell correct one from their website (i have a 2018 hybrid)

Facts

Horrible car. I wish I new before I could have bought odyssey, carnival , or Toyota

The issue is brought up frequently on the Pacifica forum. Everyone before me would take it to the dealer and get told they need a new compressor. This model had only been out since 2017, so there hasn't been that much time for problems to arise outside of the manufacturer's warranty. Given that the companies who sell the AC clutch assembly are sold out of new models, and started selling just AC coils seems to indicate lots of people are having this issue, but before I made this video and others, most, if not all people were getting told they needed a whole new compressor. I think the lack of information is due to 2 factors: 1.) the car is newer, and has had less time to show failures. 2.) lots of people are having this issue but are covered under warranty and taking it to the dealer. In either case, the information on what's really going on is kept out of the public sphere. No one was talking about the AC clutch coil until I posted about it. Now people are sold out and coming back with story after story saying they were told they need a compressor and fixing it for 1/15th the price. I truly feel that I've uncovered a solution that wasn't even known by the dealerships.

I said that I'm an HVAC technician, not an 8 track technician. However, I am 27 and I know what a 8 track cassette is. Tell me you're a boomer without saying you're a boomer.

@@David_Poole Just kidding. Love the video. Yeah, I'm a boomer. ;)

@@rael5469 lol, that's awesome. Thanks for watching

Thank you for coming back and reporting your experience. I'm sure it will help people to see the issues you spoke about awhile back and now can see that the coil replacement solved the problem

Look at your gauge cluster. It shows the ambient temperature. If the reading seems to be off, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it replaced first. It would also be good to check voltage, amperage and resistance at the F20 fuse before jumping to a diagnosis. Intermittent failure could be a bad connector as stated in my pinned comment, it could also imply low refrigerant charge, or sensor failure. Sadly I need more information before I can give a more solid answer

@@David_Poole I already checked the refrigerant and that is good, I'll try the fuse too, great video btw! Super helpful

@@justinsmith4158 if the refrigerant charge is good. I'd personally be leaning towards the connector on the AC clutch, or the ambient temperature sensor. If the gauge cluster temp seems accurate, I think you have your answer. I have a link to the connector you need for the AC clutch. You won't find it if you look up "AC clutch coil connector" thank you for your nice comments about the video. Please report back with your findings so others can use it to help them in the future.

Temp on dash looks ok, it fluctuates randomly tho.... Fuse is fine and power is getting to both sides so I'll start with the clutch connector first. Just ordered the part so probably get to it next weekend.

@@justinsmith4158 did the temp reading on the dash jump around while the car was at a stop? I've found that if the car is not moving it will get wacky readings. If the readings are jittery while driving around that may be a sign it's giving you some fits. I haven't personally experienced ambient temperature sensor issues, hopefully the connector is the solution. Thank you for coming back with an update

That is so interesting. Thank you for sharing that information. I would imagine it has to be something with PWM. Possibly some sort of controlled bypass? That would be the simplest way to limit how hard the compressor is working. Given how overly complex everything else is, it's probably not the simplest solution lol. Did you see that the liquid line runs inside of the suction line before it enters the TXV? I thought that was super clever. It helps to guarantee the compressor receives a vapor, and make sure the liquid line doesn't flash gas on its way to the TXV. If you go to my channel I have a much more in depth video that covers the whole diagnosis and repair process

I have multiple links in the pinned comment and description. One of them is the replacement AC clutch assembly

Be sure to check my channel for a full video on how to diagnose and replace the AC Clutch

Use an impact gun. It will come right off. You can try using PB blaster and a torch to help free it a bit. Worst case scenario, you can buy an extraction socket if it fully strips

Update: I managed to get it replaced and put back together. Everything was fine for about a week then the same thing happened. I got fed up and wrenched the clutch down so it's permanently engaged. I'll revisit this problem in the fall. Thanks for your videos they really helped me out!

@@mattnesbit4002 I found issues with the connector, as the same thing happened to me. When you're ready to replace it, a link for the correct part is linked in the description. You won't find it if you look up "AC clutch coil connector". Hope this helps!

Yes, if you don't have 14v to F20 when setting the system to MAX AC, it's a sign something else is wrong. Refrigerant is a great first place to look

You don't have to replace the compressor if your issue is caused by a bad AC clutch coil. Go to my channel to see my how to video.

@@David_Poole thanks I'll check it out shortly and touch base. Much appreciated.

​@@MrJoelgides what did you end up deciding?

Took it to dealership. They said clutch and coil was bad. They wanted too much to replace. Found another shop who replaced the compressor for about $970.00. the a/c worked on the way home, but later that day stopped working again. Any thoughts???

@@MrJoelgides bad connector. Probably was the issue the whole time.

I got you! Come back and comment if you do the repair yourself and share your experience

Also, go to my channel for a full guide on how to replace+ more diagnostic help

Really awesome that you got yours replaced. Thank you for sharing your experience

I’m curious about the 3 jaw puller because I’m having issues with the screwdriver thing.

How did you make a gear puller

​​@@calvinholder2223 I added an ac clutch puller to the description. Hope this helps

Thank you for commenting so others can see. Good luck on the AC clutch coil assembly

If you have voltage to F20 it's not refrigerant related. You definitely have an AC clutch coil problem. I just recorded a video today of me replacing the AC clutch assembly. I suck at video editing and will have to edit it over the next few days. Don't waste your money on the refrigerant and gauge. The best next step you can do is pull off the passenger side tire and wheel cowl to test for voltage and resistance at the AC coil.

Just made a short showing how to test the AC clutch coil without removing the passenger side tire

@@David_Poole thanks for the quick response.. After posting and rethinking, I was starting to think the same.. If there's power making it to the f20 fuse, the sensors are completing the circuit. So for other folks trouble shooting.. if there's no power to the f20 fuse, then it could be sensor related. Just for future use.. Would anyone know where the relavant sensors are? I've tried looking across the AC lines to locate. I believe to found only one sensor, just behind the passenger headlight, maybe 8 inches away, appears to be on the smaller, liquid line.. It has 3 pins. Not sure if this a pressure transducer, or high pressure sensor? Going in for the clutch coil next !!

Yep.. just realized in your first video, it explained that if sensor issue, f20 power would be cut..

@@sranthony3 gonna push to get the 2nd video uploaded tonight that way you have a guide on how to do it.

Hey David! I'm going through a similar scenario. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils, which wound up requiring me to unplug and unbolt some stuff. After re-attaching the air intake manifold and reattaching all the cables, only hot air will blow. I have tested the fuse, and I'm getting ~14V on each side of the fuse. I can see visibly that the clutch is not engaging. Since it was working before I did the spark plug work and not working after I was finished, I'm thinking I did something to cause the issue. I'd love to know about your technique for testing the clutch without taking off the wheel. I'd also be curious if you'd think that maybe the wiring down to the clutch itself might have gotten damaged, since the 14 V seems to be getting pushed at the fuse level.

@@BradleyTucker42 That's very interesting that after doing some repairs it doesn't work. I have wondered if there is a wiring problem to the clutch coil that is causing it to burn out prematurely. You would think the fuse would pop, but I feel there are scenarios where very light amounts of damage to the power wires could result in the coil burning up rather than popping the fuse. It makes me wonder if you agitated wires while doing your spark plugs and in turn the coil burned out. It's a coil didn't burn out, It could be that a wire is now open. Not able to complete the circuit. If that's the case, the method I found for testing the coil without taking off the tire will not work for you. My method assumes the wires are good. Going to the coil. You can remove the fuse, stick a 6-in 18 gauge wire from one side of the fuse to the other. This creates a loop that you can then clamp with a DC amp clamp. If you don't get any amp draw, you know the coil is not pulling a load. As far as I'm aware. If there is voltage to the f-20 fuse, there should be power going to the AC clutch coil. I believe all the other sensors and switches are before the power gets to the fuse box. Meaning the power goes directly from the fuse to the clutch coil. Hopefully my new video will help give you some answers. It's very rare for volt meters to have the ability to check DC amp draw. Most of them can only check AC amp draw.

I look forward to seeing this video!!

Can you give a quick note on the new testing methods you mentioned without removing the cowl?

@@nickcapuano1 my reply to this comment goes over how to do it

Please do.