I just did my front rear and transfer case for under 230 and I was just curious so I call around and asked a shops what they would charge it's over 1k for a 1.5 hour job my truck has 170k miles and runs like new. What I'm trying to say is that I'm glad I'm able to do my own work. And I always change my gasket just because you never know.
Just did this, pro tip: get a wire brush to clean the red lock tight off the threads before re installing. Had 66,000km on mine oil was toast (bought used) and thread locker was all hard had to spend alot of time scraping it with a blade.
you could.... but wouldn't you want to inspect your ring and pinion for wear? I mean, it's not difficult to pop the inspection plate. Plus, you can then see if there's any metal in the bottom. That will tell you if you have any serious gear wear.
@@seus_k2xx hey man. Thanks. I figured not either. Changed it all out. Only dilemma…..stupid magnet I thought had to come out to be cleaned was glued in from factory. Why would they do that. lol
I haven't done it, but I was reading on some forums and this guy said he used 75w90 from amsoil and the heavier weight helped reduce the intermittent "clunk" when down shifting, so I may use that instead when I change mine
It's not approved... Hasn't met the proper specs. They just claim it's better... But no proof, not worth the risk imo. Even though I love amsoil for other stuff
@@Tuesflex the fluids are probably dirty and it’s best to change them before anything else brakes, also look into an dod/afm disabler as the lifters will go out over time because of the 4 to 8 transition
@@marcmedrano6674 appreciate that! Def heard a lot about the afm delete. My truck shifts good and was told dont change the trans fluid unless its bad. Cause I guess if nothing is bad and u change it it can slip
I just did my front rear and transfer case for under 230 and I was just curious so I call around and asked a shops what they would charge it's over 1k for a 1.5 hour job my truck has 170k miles and runs like new. What I'm trying to say is that I'm glad I'm able to do my own work. And I always change my gasket just because you never know.
If you drop the spare it makes it so much easier specially when adding fluid and not have to use a pump.
I never drop mine and didn’t use a pump I had a cone shape tip from a different oil bottle and thread right on and work like a charm .
Okay genius let’s see you try it. I got my dif fluid from AMSOIL it comes in a bag with a pointed tip that makes it real easy. Highly recommend
I have a 3/4 ton 2015 HD. It has a drain plug on the bottom of both front & rear diff.
You lucky bastard
Just did this, pro tip: get a wire brush to clean the red lock tight off the threads before re installing. Had 66,000km on mine oil was toast (bought used) and thread locker was all hard had to spend alot of time scraping it with a blade.
I know this was an old video but did you have any issues with adding the 3 quarts? Thanks
That shock looks like it might be leaking
What other gear can you use besides GM.
I use Lucas Oil products as much as possible
My rear differential took 4 and still didn’t leak out at that point
Would it be easier if you used a fluid extractor ?
you could.... but wouldn't you want to inspect your ring and pinion for wear? I mean, it's not difficult to pop the inspection plate. Plus, you can then see if there's any metal in the bottom. That will tell you if you have any serious gear wear.
Can i use n other mark like stp?
Where do you get the pump at
Can i just simply drain the oil snd refill back up?
You can but it won't clear the majority of the metal shavings out and they will continue to wear the diff out sooner
Do these diffs not require a friction modifier additive?
They do they just didn't put it in lol
The GM G80 lockers inside these trucks do not require any additives
@@seus_k2xx hey man. Thanks. I figured not either. Changed it all out. Only dilemma…..stupid magnet I thought had to come out to be cleaned was glued in from factory. Why would they do that. lol
What kind of rims are those, they really set off the truck.
Strada Codas. 22s. Thanks
So is 75W-85?
That’s what the factory calls for but you can use 75w90 no problem
Thanks for the video
Ehat happen if i use 75w-90
I haven't done it, but I was reading on some forums and this guy said he used 75w90 from amsoil and the heavier weight helped reduce the intermittent "clunk" when down shifting, so I may use that instead when I change mine
can you use brake kleren to get all that off the cover and gasket?
Yes
Don't like amsoil?
It's not approved... Hasn't met the proper specs. They just claim it's better... But no proof, not worth the risk imo. Even though I love amsoil for other stuff
Not washington chevy
I know this is a couple yrs old, but man oh man, please stop swinging your camera around like that. Makes us dizzy if we're watching on larger screen.
I will try to do better.😘
Ac Delcoo 😂
It's what the gm dealer recommends... I went to them to and this is what they sold ms
Does the 2017 come with the reusable gasket?😊
12 bolt are reusable, rock auto 21.00 others double the price
Please someone let me know. Just bought a 2017 1500 ls 5.3. I got it at 140,000. Do i need to change both automatic and diff fluid?
Yes
And transfer case and transmission
@@marcmedrano6674 why you suggest that bro? Thanks
@@Tuesflex the fluids are probably dirty and it’s best to change them before anything else brakes, also look into an dod/afm disabler as the lifters will go out over time because of the 4 to 8 transition
@@marcmedrano6674 appreciate that! Def heard a lot about the afm delete. My truck shifts good and was told dont change the trans fluid unless its bad. Cause I guess if nothing is bad and u change it it can slip