Mine had a tag on it that said to fill 5/8” to 1 1/4 “ below the fill plug - I also added a large ring magnet to the outside of the rear cover at the same time
Maybe it's just me but I found an easier pull the diff cover. It drains in seconds and allows you to get any material out that has settled in the bottom of the diff ...And you can visually inspect everything.
Then you have to wire brush and re-gasket it. Not my chosen route but I can’t see laying under it and taking all those bolts out Vs taking one out. Only took 20mins or so total.
@@fred1706 I can’t really remember. I traded it in @ 98k miles last month. It was a bulletproof truck with the maintenance that I have shown in these videos.
@@dondoes4303 Perhaps. I’m surprised it isn’t considered a “lifetime fluid” like some manufacturers categorize tranny fluid. Volvo to be more specific. Talking about 01-07 models when ford owned them. Not sure if they changed that or not in later gens.
Definitely not the cleanest or fine job to your own car, you wanna clean the entire inside specially if you opening for the first time, make sure all old oil is gone. This is the lazy way…
You get more room if you were to jack up the frame of the vehicle and leave the wheels on the ground if you don’t need to spin the gears. Jack point I use is the trailer hitch. You can then use your jacks to hold the frame up.
Doing any diff fluid change you should be replacing your cover/bolts and a new gasket. Your not getting all that old fluid out with that tool and it’s also good to open up the whole thing and brake clean those pinion gears
I just did my ‘99 by removing the drain plug, the fluid still looked like new so I didn’t pull the cover that is just a bunch of work - filled it with new fluid and moved on
It’s good to pull the spare to lubricate the mech etc, otherwise you need not have it there anyway as you’ll never get it out on the side of a dark rainy road when a tire is flat
Thank you for giving me the idea of using the suction gun. Saved me a big headache by avoiding leaks after draining the whole pumpkin.
Glad I could help!
Thank you ❤
Very welcome!
Mine had a tag on it that said to fill 5/8” to 1 1/4 “ below the fill plug - I also added a large ring magnet to the outside of the rear cover at the same time
Maybe it's just me but I found an easier pull the diff cover. It drains in seconds and allows you to get any material out that has settled in the bottom of the diff ...And you can visually inspect everything.
Then you have to wire brush and re-gasket it. Not my chosen route but I can’t see laying under it and taking all those bolts out Vs taking one out. Only took 20mins or so total.
And then what? You aren’t prepared to rebuild it and now you risk a leaking gasket etc
That’s the way to do it!
If you support the frame,with jack stands it will let the rear end drop down further
That’s absolutely true. Keeps me skinny not doing that lol
in total how much oil was taken
I didn’t measure what came out. I put 2.75 qts back in. Which is what it calls for.
@@dondoes4303 it is 12 bolt
@@fred1706 I can’t really remember. I traded it in @ 98k miles last month. It was a bulletproof truck with the maintenance that I have shown in these videos.
Not so much for you since you didn’t pull the cover. Was for those who are looking at ways to do this maintenance.
You know back in the day they put drain plugs in the rear ends. Wonder why they stopped? Oh yeah so you had to take it to the dealer lol
@@dondoes4303 Perhaps. I’m surprised it isn’t considered a “lifetime fluid” like some manufacturers categorize tranny fluid. Volvo to be more specific. Talking about 01-07 models when ford owned them. Not sure if they changed that or not in later gens.
Definitely not the cleanest or fine job to your own car, you wanna clean the entire inside specially if you opening for the first time, make sure all old oil is gone. This is the lazy way…
@@Reyreycookie I’ve done 100’s of these. Never lost a rear end yet. Good day to you.
Wrong weight fluid….
I beg to differ. That was the manufacturer spec
75W-85 for the rear and 75W-90 for the front. He will be fine tho
You get more room if you were to jack up the frame of the vehicle and leave the wheels on the ground if you don’t need to spin the gears. Jack point I use is the trailer hitch. You can then use your jacks to hold the frame up.
No need, I got under there fine
What’s the actual torque spec to tighten back on
It’s just a plug, there is no torque spec for it that I’m aware of.
24 ft lbs for the 3/8 drive fill bolt
30 ft lbs for the 10mm perimeter bolts that hold diff cover on.
Doing any diff fluid change you should be replacing your cover/bolts and a new gasket. Your not getting all that old fluid out with that tool and it’s also good to open up the whole thing and brake clean those pinion gears
I appreciate your point of view but relectfully disagree
I just did my ‘99 by removing the drain plug, the fluid still looked like new so I didn’t pull the cover that is just a bunch of work - filled it with new fluid and moved on
I have been doing it like this for years tahoe has 300k on it now runs smooth
Remove the spare get more room under there
No need for the extra work.
It’s good to pull the spare to lubricate the mech etc, otherwise you need not have it there anyway as you’ll never get it out on the side of a dark rainy road when a tire is flat