Brilliant explanation. I'm just starting on a layout and will admit to already using your method for constructing the scenery. I've got electrofrog points but wasn't going to motorise them - however now that i've seen this I think I will - particularly as I intend to weather the track and so will be making the switching contact areas dirty! Much appreciated.
Yes thats correct. I'm slowly working my way around the layout fitting motors to points that have been in place for over 2 years. As long as the hole is big enough you shouldn't have any problems.
Ohhhhhh! My error, after reviewing the video over n over i now clearly understand, it was my ignorance, U are using electrofrogs, its just that u further add better constant power so that no matter how dirty the inbetween faces of rail get....u still smoothly get thru..forgiv me for wasting ur time with this i trust ur knowledge n knew that id better review vid, now i got it thanx again to ur great instruction..Ralphy
The Best tutorial I have seen on wiring electro frog points. I love the wiring diagram, really simplifies everything. Many thanks. Kind regards. John. ps. Do you still use Seep points? It's just that I am reading on some forums that they tend to short out or just stop working. Have you been using them for some time?
Hi Richard first 2 point motors installed easy really thanks to this tutorial :-) 26 more on the fiddle yard :-( to go, will be an expert after this little lot
that was a ace video very informitive and corect..you can drill a hole for the wire that comes off the frog before fitting the point to the basebored,and solder a wire to it under the base bored
@armleyroad Thanks mate, you only need the insulating joiners at the end of the V coming from the frog. Once those are on the point will work like any other.
Hi. Great insight to electrofrogs. However I still use insulfrog and was wondering if I can still use these seep motors on dc and not wire the frog and dcc wires. Secondly I've seen that the hole needs to be 9.5 mm wide. However a drill bit leaves a huge hole underneath. So can I effectively just make a hole 9.5 mm wide underneath the tie bar and just make the lenght according to the diameter of the motors bar ?
Thanks for the video Richard. This was very informative. I like the idea of using 12V and switches rather than DCC, but I wondered (sorry the whole wiring thing often confuses me) you said you also connected it to the DCC bus wires? Are the points only run through a DCC decoder type box and if so what are the DC wires attached too? Thanks in advance, Dan
@slendersausage I did, attaching the wires into the blue crimp blade splicers is wiring them to the rest of the layout. As said 2 wires go to DCC + and - the other 2 are DC + and - to operate the switch. Everyone's layout wiring is slightly different so I focused the vid on the motor itself as this was what most people were asking about.
Hi, love the videos, very informative. Could you tell me please what grade of cable you use for each type of drop wire you use. i.e. track, lighting and accessories. Thanks.
Hi Richard, A very informative video as usual. You mentioned in this video or the previous that you use kadee couplings. I like the idea of them too. What # type/number kadee do you use & they fit all of your locos/rolling stock easily? There seems to be such a huge range of kadee couplings. My stuff is all hornby.
Thanks for putting that together... until now i didnt really understand the peco points so i went with Hornby and put the power clips on them for DCC 99% of my layout is Hornby track.
Excellent videos. Thanks. The way this is all hooked up I assume is focused around a DCC set up? Or does this method apply to DC too? I guess I’m specifically referring to the fact that you made points totally live.
I think for a rank amateur like me the point motors are very daunting especially with all the technical information that you have added in here... what I guess I needed was a very simple...." this goes here, this goes here and that goes there" video.... this is still a bit daunting.
@ps3nut17 Thanks. I've just had a quick look and the hornby select has 4 sockets on the back. 2 are for the track, the other 2 are a 15v dc supply, you can use that to power the point motors.
many thanks for the info.I am not electrical minded but I am following your instructions I am not sure regarding the white wire what you mean or where it goes. I think you do a great job explaining on these vids and look forward to some more many thanks
I have electro frogs and I have now followed your advice, I don't see what difference it could make to cut and then solder new wires to the outer tracks. Surely all your doing is allowing two (correctly polarised) feeds if you don't cut it so, your frog has two chances? It can't short as the polarity switch surely only matches the physical blade?? I think that's right and that way I can run trains before all motors are in... Thanks for your help, great videos!! Always a treat!
I use peco code 100 track as it works well with everything and is easy to use. I would also recommend code 75 as it more realistic, however older models don't work so well on it.
A quick question (or two) Richard.... are the SEEP point motors smaller than the peco ones? As I have a area under my raised section with track underneath and I need a small point motor due to the limited clearance! Also, what do you cut the point motor rod with, after its fitted? Its obviously too long and needs trimmed, but I am struggling to source the right tool what will allow me to snip it when its already fitted to the layout. I had used a trusty old pair of cutters, but they broke! What do you use? Finally, I have a DCC Concepts point decoder, for controlling the points by DCC if I want to go down that route. Would it matter if I bought a seep with built in accessory switch, but didn't use it, instead choosing to use the decoder (which has a built in accessory switch)CheersDave
+DaveClass47 Hi Dave. The seeps are smaller in height than the peco ones. I don't have one to hand right now, but the are no more that 20mm tall. I use a Dremel with a cutting disk to get rid of the excess rod. Some track cutters might also do it. As for the accessory switch you don't have to worry if you don't wire it up. Seep also make them without the switch if you don't want it. Cheers
***** hi, try rapid electronics. They sell them by the bag load! Crimp blade splices and crimp blade connectors. I use them on my layout too. They are easy to use.
When I was doing all the Switch Wiring on my HO Layout, I bought a Spool of Computer Wire with 25 wire's Across the Strip they put a RED Wire every FIVE ( 5 ) wires which makes it easy, First at one end I found the red wire which is five lines, I made a small cut and pulled the wire( to save time you can make your Cuts every 5 wires ) for pulling, you might ask why 5, first off they are easy to find and pull, when I have 5 lines I made another cut at 3 which I used for all my switch's very easy with the Center and two sides for Left and Right with the Center being the Common Line. Very easy as long as you KEEP the Line FLAT, At each end I placed a piece of masking tape with R-C-L at each end, very helpful for LONG Wire Run's, Now with the 2 remaining lines I used them for all my AC lines like Light's and What Not's, and the Computer Wire Comes in Very Long Rolls, which will get you to a lot of Point's, like wiring a Yard and More. Don't let the Price Scare you because you will be getting a lot of wire for you money, and it is totally worth it, in wire and trouble, and Have Fun.
I have used a similar way but I use just three wires to the motor as I'm just starting out and won't to get it all going so I have the + and - going to the point motor and then the frog wire and it seems to work I need to switch it by hand but it's working and it allows me to upgrade it in my own time
I have a question? Forgive my ignorance I am new to DCC, point C does that go to the DCC controller and then the controller goes to the switch. Or can I connect point C straight to the middle terminal on the switch? So what I am asking is, where does Point C go to it's the middle point on the switch or controller?
Hi there Everard Junction Thanks for that I now understand. I am hoping to have a video up onto you tube at the end of feb or the beginning of march and I will thank you in the video for all your help. I will recommend your channel too Thanks for everything Martin
Great Video. Just one question. Do you use a CDU (capacitor discharge unit) in your layout points wiring? Many thanks for your Video and keep up the good work.
The bus wires are the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stipped the two wires out from inside.
@hornbyhobby It is possible if (like me) you drilled a hole for the point motor before the ballasting. If you didn't the you can pobably get away with a surface mounted point motor, but i've never actually used one.
Hi Everard Junction I have had great success installing the PM1 motors thanks to your how to videos. I'm looking to go a little more advanced and want to install two motors onto one switch (I've seen you show the finished product in one of your previous videos, but forgot which one). Following on from use the PM1's and a CDU, can you help by letting me know how to wire two motors up to one switch? I've got two points connected together and wanted one point to switch from one operating line to another. Any help greatly appreciated Andy
@itgamer100 The dcc + - goes to the motor and gives the track power. To make the motor move i use the dc 12v. DCC is AC voltage and must only be used to power the track either directly or through a polarity switch on a point motor. Peco do make points the same size of the basic hornby ones, i don't know if they do electrofrog ones though.
Hi Richard, do you still need to take the two wires out from the underside of the point just before the frog and make a connection between the two rails, so contact is always there regardless if the blades aren’t connecting properly, as you would with a Peco point motor.
Hi I've just watched the video installing seep polnt motor and I've got a couple of queries. Does the wire which is attached to the electrofrog point connected anywhere also do you have to cut the bits underneath the polnt as in the peco instructions and solder wire across the two metal pieces underneath. If you could advise it would be much appreciated. Mike Tee
You cut the connection wires under the point blades if you are going to bond the point blades to the stock rails with a soldered wire between the two. This ensures power is always fed to the point blades even if the tab under the point blade wears out get bent. Cutting the wire as per the Peco instructions ensures you will not get a short circuit. Otherwise leave the wires in place and trust the blades and stock rails will always make good contact, which in my experience they do not over time.
a very good tutorial video mate.but it seems like to much hard work for me tho LOL!i really like the static grass around the siding of the tmd, i must invest in a grassmaster soon.looking forwards to another update.
You don't need flux. Buy good solder wire 60/40 rosin core. Last time I used flux was in 1978!!! I'm a professional electronics engineer. Anyway, good advice about the point motor.
Mike at Everbeek thanks for th info, annoying that my point motors were left half Finnished for bout 3 years! we stopped work after the builder, my grandfather, passed, but, were back baby! wooo!!
I am also a professional electronics engineer. OK most of the time these days I use computer software but when I get to play with a soldering iron good flux is essential. How do you install smd parts without flux, or solder/remove 100+ pin devices? Hot air work demands loads of flux to safely remove and replace components and I mean loads. Very strange. In this situation using flux means you can carry solder to the joint on the iron tip which cannot be done with multicore solder on its own as the rosin will burn off before the joint is made.
I personally use a gaugemaster model D controller for DC purposes. Most dc controllers should do the job, you can also use a propper dc power supply instead.
Watched your episode 6 installing a point motor,and found it very helpfull. ive tried to locate the Rapid connector you used 371096.if you could let me no i live in leeds. thanks barry
@everardJunction with these toggle switches, isnt the way it works is, when you flip the switch to the right, the wire on the left is activated, and when you flip to the left, the wire on the right is activated? or is it the wire on the same side that your flipping the switch? I have heard mixed things about them.
For your main line track what code of Peco do you use and why did you select this code. What are the pros to this code in your opinion. Thanks for you videos, I always look forward to seeing what you're up to
Apologies if you’ve already covered this but I’m just about to wire up loft railway. Intend to go DC at first then convert to DCC as skills develop. Is wiring the same for these motors? Great videos btw. Thanks.
A quick question if I may, if I cut and resolder my points as per the peco dcc instructions, will my points work when powered from the entry end without the point motors installed please? I want to test my track before I install the motors and can't afford all motors straight away? Any help would be hugely appreciated...
I get the smaller wire from rapid electronics. The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside
Thank you for that I will apply that on a dodging point on my layout most of my steam locos stall on that point, I hope that this dosn't just apply to DCC operation
You can convert the running track to DCC and still use analogue DC for the points. Alternatively you will need to get an 'accessory decoder' to drive the point motors - they drive up to four each, it is then just connected to the power bus - or install a 'district' for accessories (power booster).
HI First would just like to say love the layout and all the vids on here. Just one question on the points i get all the wiring up and how it works i just noticed that half way down the turn out there are two cuts is this to stop a short circuit when the point is changed and one more question on your 3-way point did u use one point motor. Thanks and again great videos cant wait for the next.
As always great video Richard. Just one question I dont plan using a switch, I want to use a Lenz LS150 DCC Accessory Decoder 6 Way. Each port has 3 holes. A switch only uses 2 wires how would I wire this please. I pretty much understand the rest
For DC use without a polarity switch you will need to use a Seep PM-2 point motor. You will only need to use terminals A,B and C to get them working. Currently all hornby points are insulfrog.
Hi love the video very helpful as I am experiencing the problem (livefrog )which you are illustrating. I am running D.C.C. but operate my points DC. Is it possible to do a similar wiring job as you have described
Brilliant explanation. I'm just starting on a layout and will admit to already using your method for constructing the scenery. I've got electrofrog points but wasn't going to motorise them - however now that i've seen this I think I will - particularly as I intend to weather the track and so will be making the switching contact areas dirty! Much appreciated.
About 13min in, excellent explanation of how electrofrog point works in terms of wiring and polarity.
The point motors I used in this video cost £4 each.
Just found your video. Best one going and it now all becomes clear. Thanks for doing it. Andrew
Fantastic video, first class presentation. Electrics puts the fear of god into me, but you make it so easy. Keep up the great work. Jeff Rigden
Just starting my lay out. Great vids full of loads of good info. Thanks
Good work on this layout. It really is coming along very well. 👍😊👍👍
Yes thats correct. I'm slowly working my way around the layout fitting motors to points that have been in place for over 2 years. As long as the hole is big enough you shouldn't have any problems.
Ohhhhhh! My error, after reviewing the video over n over i now clearly understand, it was my ignorance, U are using electrofrogs, its just that u further add better constant power so that no matter how dirty the inbetween faces of rail get....u still smoothly get thru..forgiv me for wasting ur time with this i trust ur knowledge n knew that id better review vid, now i got it thanx again to ur great instruction..Ralphy
This just made point wiring and electro frog points a whole lot simpler for me...thank you for sharing.
Adam Goodin Thanks. It can be a bit of a minefield!
The Best tutorial I have seen on wiring electro frog points. I love the wiring diagram, really simplifies everything. Many thanks.
Kind regards.
John.
ps. Do you still use Seep points? It's just that I am reading on some forums that they tend to short out or just stop working. Have you been using them for some time?
THANKS FOR THE POINTS VIDEO AS ALWAYS YOU MAKE IT LOOK SO STRAIGHT FORWARD
Hi Richard first 2 point motors installed easy really thanks to this tutorial :-) 26 more on the fiddle yard :-( to go, will be an expert after this little lot
that was a ace video very informitive and corect..you can drill a hole for the wire that comes off the frog before fitting the point to the basebored,and solder a wire to it under the base bored
@armleyroad Thanks mate, you only need the insulating joiners at the end of the V coming from the frog. Once those are on the point will work like any other.
Hi. Great insight to electrofrogs. However I still use insulfrog and was wondering if I can still use these seep motors on dc and not wire the frog and dcc wires. Secondly I've seen that the hole needs to be 9.5 mm wide. However a drill bit leaves a huge hole underneath. So can I effectively just make a hole 9.5 mm wide underneath the tie bar and just make the lenght according to the diameter of the motors bar ?
:) Passionate at modelling with a FLAIR for clear and steady presenting .. quel bon homme!
another great video your layout looks very realistic
Thanks for your excellent video!
Thanks for the video Richard. This was very informative. I like the idea of using 12V and switches rather than DCC, but I wondered (sorry the whole wiring thing often confuses me) you said you also connected it to the DCC bus wires? Are the points only run through a DCC decoder type box and if so what are the DC wires attached too? Thanks in advance, Dan
@slendersausage I did, attaching the wires into the blue crimp blade splicers is wiring them to the rest of the layout. As said 2 wires go to DCC + and - the other 2 are DC + and - to operate the switch. Everyone's layout wiring is slightly different so I focused the vid on the motor itself as this was what most people were asking about.
Hi, love the videos, very informative. Could you tell me please what grade of cable you use for each type of drop wire you use. i.e. track, lighting and accessories. Thanks.
Thank you. You’ve cleared my head 👍🏻
Hi Richard, A very informative video as usual. You mentioned in this video or the previous that you use kadee couplings. I like the idea of them too. What # type/number kadee do you use & they fit all of your locos/rolling stock easily? There seems to be such a huge range of kadee couplings. My stuff is all hornby.
Have been wondering how to do that. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for putting that together... until now i didnt really understand the peco points so i went with Hornby and put the power clips on them for DCC 99% of my layout is Hornby track.
Great video , better than the professional DVDs I've got explaining this , thank you
Very informative Richard!
I use sprung centre off switches. The 3 terminals on the bottom make on-off-on as you flick the switch.
Excellent videos. Thanks. The way this is all hooked up I assume is focused around a DCC set up? Or does this method apply to DC too? I guess I’m specifically referring to the fact that you made points totally live.
I think for a rank amateur like me the point motors are very daunting especially with all the technical information that you have added in here... what I guess I needed was a very simple...." this goes here, this goes here and that goes there" video.... this is still a bit daunting.
@ps3nut17 Thanks. I've just had a quick look and the hornby select has 4 sockets on the back. 2 are for the track, the other 2 are a 15v dc supply, you can use that to power the point motors.
I love how you used the SimCity 4 soundtrack for the intro music
many thanks for the info.I am not electrical minded but I am following your instructions I am not sure regarding the white wire what you mean or where it goes. I think you do a great job explaining on these vids and look forward to some more many thanks
Very well explained, thanks!
I have electro frogs and I have now followed your advice, I don't see what difference it could make to cut and then solder new wires to the outer tracks. Surely all your doing is allowing two (correctly polarised) feeds if you don't cut it so, your frog has two chances? It can't short as the polarity switch surely only matches the physical blade??
I think that's right and that way I can run trains before all motors are in... Thanks for your help, great videos!! Always a treat!
BR Blues Thanks, glad you got it sorted. I still have some points without motors and they still work fine. Just keep them clean and you'll be ok.
I like the design of the seeps. I heard of people having problems with them and wonder if you have had any problems.
Thanks for the helpful video!
@boneyknocknees They can be quite tough, I use a dremel.
I use peco code 100 track as it works well with everything and is easy to use. I would also recommend code 75 as it more realistic, however older models don't work so well on it.
A quick question (or two) Richard.... are the SEEP point motors smaller than the peco ones? As I have a area under my raised section with track underneath and I need a small point motor due to the limited clearance! Also, what do you cut the point motor rod with, after its fitted? Its obviously too long and needs trimmed, but I am struggling to source the right tool what will allow me to snip it when its already fitted to the layout. I had used a trusty old pair of cutters, but they broke! What do you use? Finally, I have a DCC Concepts point decoder, for controlling the points by DCC if I want to go down that route. Would it matter if I bought a seep with built in accessory switch, but didn't use it, instead choosing to use the decoder (which has a built in accessory switch)CheersDave
+DaveClass47 Hi Dave. The seeps are smaller in height than the peco ones. I don't have one to hand right now, but the are no more that 20mm tall. I use a Dremel with a cutting disk to get rid of the excess rod. Some track cutters might also do it. As for the accessory switch you don't have to worry if you don't wire it up. Seep also make them without the switch if you don't want it. Cheers
Cheers, the SEEP might be the answer to getting a turnout in the upper section when it is directly above the tracks below! Dave
***** hi, try rapid electronics. They sell them by the bag load! Crimp blade splices and crimp blade connectors. I use them on my layout too. They are easy to use.
When I was doing all the Switch Wiring on my HO Layout, I bought a Spool of Computer Wire with 25 wire's Across the Strip they put a RED Wire every FIVE ( 5 ) wires which makes it easy, First at one end I found the red wire which is five lines, I made a small cut and pulled the wire( to save time you can make your Cuts every 5 wires ) for pulling, you might ask why 5, first off they are easy to find and pull, when I have 5 lines I made another cut at 3 which I used for all my switch's very easy with the Center and two sides for Left and Right with the Center being the Common Line. Very easy as long as you KEEP the Line FLAT, At each end I placed a piece of masking tape with R-C-L at each end, very helpful for LONG Wire Run's, Now with the 2 remaining lines I used them for all my AC lines like Light's and What Not's, and the Computer Wire Comes in Very Long Rolls, which will get you to a lot of Point's, like wiring a Yard and More. Don't let the Price Scare you because you will be getting a lot of wire for you money, and it is totally worth it, in wire and trouble, and Have Fun.
Joseph Meko PC ribbon cable is very useful, I've seen it used on various layouts. Very useful in complex areas.
I have used a similar way but I use just three wires to the motor as I'm just starting out and won't to get it all going so I have the + and - going to the point motor and then the frog wire and it seems to work I need to switch it by hand but it's working and it allows me to upgrade it in my own time
Forget to say excellent videos by the way!
Great Explanation really helpful!
@GreenValleyRailway The switches I use are the single poll, double throw type, I got them off ebay.
Excellent video this is exactly what I want to do, thanks
I have a question?
Forgive my ignorance I am new to DCC, point C does that go to the DCC controller and then the controller goes to the switch. Or can I connect point C straight to the middle terminal on the switch? So what I am asking is, where does Point C go to it's the middle point on the switch or controller?
I couldn't see why either. I have left them as standard, all work fine.
@boneyknocknees No problem mate, glad it helped you
Really useful tutorial. Thanks! :)
@maxilfli1 Yeah, they are peco code 100 streamline points, you can get them in insulfrog or electrofrog
Very useful video, thank you
Hi there Everard Junction
Thanks for that I now understand.
I am hoping to have a video up onto you tube at the end of feb or the beginning of march and I will thank you in the video for all your help.
I will recommend your channel too
Thanks for everything
Martin
Great Video. Just one question. Do you use a CDU (capacitor discharge unit) in your layout points wiring? Many thanks for your Video and keep up the good work.
Alan Wreford I don't at the moment but would recommend one. It will stop you from accidently burning out any motors. Thanks
The bus wires are the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stipped the two wires out from inside.
@hornbyhobby It is possible if (like me) you drilled a hole for the point motor before the ballasting. If you didn't the you can pobably get away with a surface mounted point motor, but i've never actually used one.
@pyronathanpyro The motors are easy to find, wire is from maplins and the switches are from ebay, they are double throw centre off switches.
Hi Everard Junction
I have had great success installing the PM1 motors thanks to your how to videos. I'm looking to go a little more advanced and want to install two motors onto one switch (I've seen you show the finished product in one of your previous videos, but forgot which one). Following on from use the PM1's and a CDU, can you help by letting me know how to wire two motors up to one switch? I've got two points connected together and wanted one point to switch from one operating line to another.
Any help greatly appreciated
Andy
I use heat shrink for the connectors. The spades are clamped on using pliers.
@itgamer100 The dcc + - goes to the motor and gives the track power. To make the motor move i use the dc 12v. DCC is AC voltage and must only be used to power the track either directly or through a polarity switch on a point motor. Peco do make points the same size of the basic hornby ones, i don't know if they do electrofrog ones though.
Hi Richard, do you still need to take the two wires out from the underside of the point just before the frog and make a connection between the two rails, so contact is always there regardless if the blades aren’t connecting properly, as you would with a Peco point motor.
Great video what switches do you use
Hi I've just watched the video installing seep polnt motor and I've got a couple of queries. Does the wire which is attached to the electrofrog point connected anywhere also do you have to cut the bits underneath the polnt as in the peco instructions and solder wire across the two metal pieces underneath. If you could advise it would be much appreciated.
Mike Tee
Just re-watched this after working with seep & peco on my new layout. How did you get by without the soldering mods to the rails everyone recommends?
You cut the connection wires under the point blades if you are going to bond the point blades to the stock rails with a soldered wire between the two. This ensures power is always fed to the point blades even if the tab under the point blade wears out get bent. Cutting the wire as per the Peco instructions ensures you will not get a short circuit. Otherwise leave the wires in place and trust the blades and stock rails will always make good contact, which in my experience they do not over time.
Nice Work i'll have to do this when i get a layout up and running.
Very helpful video thanks. What did you use to cut the point motor rods after fitting ?
@gazclass58 Thanks, if you use insulfrog you don't need a polarity switch and the wiring is more simple.
a very good tutorial video mate.but it seems like to much hard work for me tho LOL!i really like the static grass around the siding of the tmd, i must invest in a grassmaster soon.looking forwards to another update.
You don't need flux. Buy good solder wire 60/40 rosin core. Last time I used flux was in 1978!!! I'm a professional electronics engineer. Anyway, good advice about the point motor.
Mike at Everbeek thanks for th info, annoying that my point motors were left half Finnished for bout 3 years! we stopped work after the builder, my grandfather, passed, but, were back baby! wooo!!
I am also a professional electronics engineer. OK most of the time these days I use computer software but when I get to play with a soldering iron good flux is essential. How do you install smd parts without flux, or solder/remove 100+ pin devices? Hot air work demands loads of flux to safely remove and replace components and I mean loads. Very strange. In this situation using flux means you can carry solder to the joint on the iron tip which cannot be done with multicore solder on its own as the rosin will burn off before the joint is made.
Hi there Everard Junction
Thanks for that Everard Junction I now understand it. Can you recommend a good DC controller to start off with
Thanks Martin
I personally use a gaugemaster model D controller for DC purposes. Most dc controllers should do the job, you can also use a propper dc power supply instead.
@jasonandjoesrailway You would be best with insulfrog points, and would have to use some sort of surface mounted point motors instead.
Watched your episode 6 installing a point motor,and found it very helpfull. ive tried to locate the Rapid connector you used 371096.if you could let me no i live in leeds. thanks barry
@everardJunction with these toggle switches, isnt the way it works is, when you flip the switch to the right, the wire on the left is activated, and when you flip to the left, the wire on the right is activated? or is it the wire on the same side that your flipping the switch? I have heard mixed things about them.
For your main line track what code of Peco do you use and why did you select this code. What are the pros to this code in your opinion. Thanks for you videos, I always look forward to seeing what you're up to
Apologies if you’ve already covered this but I’m just about to wire up loft railway. Intend to go DC at first then convert to DCC as skills develop. Is wiring the same for these motors? Great videos btw. Thanks.
A quick question if I may, if I cut and resolder my points as per the peco dcc instructions, will my points work when powered from the entry end without the point motors installed please? I want to test my track before I install the motors and can't afford all motors straight away?
Any help would be hugely appreciated...
BR Blues What sort of points do you have? Electrofrog or insulfrog?
Personally I ignored the instructions and didn't cut anything under the points.
wonderfull video and very helpfull to me, thanks alot,
once again a brilliant vid, i am using insul frog with hornby point motors but am liking these points and motors. are they peco points ??
I get the smaller wire from rapid electronics. The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside
Thank you for that I will apply that on a dodging point on my layout most of my steam locos stall on that point, I hope that this dosn't just apply to DCC operation
You can convert the running track to DCC and still use analogue DC for the points. Alternatively you will need to get an 'accessory decoder' to drive the point motors - they drive up to four each, it is then just connected to the power bus - or install a 'district' for accessories (power booster).
Great video am i right in thinking that the 12v on the switch and 0 (c) go to a acceries bus wire?
nice video i can remember doing my point motors, along job but worth it.
Good stuff thanks for sharing...
HI First would just like to say love the layout and all the vids on here. Just one question on the points i get all the wiring up and how it works i just noticed that half way down the turn out there are two cuts is this to stop a short circuit when the point is changed and one more question on your 3-way point did u use one point motor. Thanks
and again great videos cant wait for the next.
@jackabeejackson The best size for the hole is probably about the size of a 1p coin. Then the motor can be mounted underneath.
As always great video Richard. Just one question I dont plan using a switch, I want to use a Lenz LS150 DCC Accessory Decoder 6 Way. Each port has 3 holes. A switch only uses 2 wires how would I wire this please. I pretty much understand the rest
Do you need to wire up the point if you have a peco point
Should do, I think the accessory point decoder works with most point motors.
Does that mean the points work the same as the reverse loop module?. Great videos and very helpful. cheers.
The sound from Sim City 4, very interesting lol!
For DC use without a polarity switch you will need to use a Seep PM-2 point motor. You will only need to use terminals A,B and C to get them working.
Currently all hornby points are insulfrog.
Power for the track comes from the DCC controller. Power for lights and other accessories comes from a 12v DC transformer.
Hi great video, just a quick question, where do you get you retaining wall from that is also in the background.cheers
@smithy9148 The seep PM1 is best used with electrofrog, it will work fine with normal points though.
Hi love the video very helpful as I am experiencing the problem (livefrog )which you are illustrating. I am running D.C.C. but operate my points DC. Is it possible to do a similar wiring job as you have described
Great i may try this !
Very good, are these seep motors ok for N gauge operated by DC controll
David Gregory You can use seeps for N gauge.