Thanks for all your great informational videos. One improvement i would make to this design would be a small shelf at the end of the sawbuck, lumber would fall, onto the shelf, That way you are not bending down every time to pick up the cutoffs.
Yeah, if you could back that trailer under the device that would be sweet, but I haven’t thought through the details yet. Interesting and smart setup, and as is it sure beats the hell out of processing it right off the ground
think you live in Virginia in our area we have white pine and Virginia or hard pine. Can you use the Va pine for most or certain applications ? What is the height of your green cross beams on your mill. Thank you great videos.
If you end up splitting most of those, would it have been more efficient (with your mill setup/layout) to have batch milled (on edge) the larger cutoffs (slabs) while they were still near the mill? i.e. right after the cant is milled into lumber you should still have up to four slabs/cutoffs nearby that could be placed on edge, back on the mill, 4 to 8 slabs at a time then a single pass through the pith. or two passes for kindling width. Then to the sawbuck. ... Just a thought from another Oregon oldish timer (with a rusty axe).
Yep, it would have made a lot of sense to do it then. Sometimes I will put cutoffs back on the mill to get bonus 2x4 lumber but in this case I did not, and I could have ripped the bigger ones down for firewood use and saved time at the splitter.
I put my slabs into a 2'x2'x8' slab-rack right from the mill, strap with two heavy duty plastic straps, then lift out with tractor forks, stack out back on skids til needed. When it's time to put slabs into firewood I put them into another slab rack, mark out length I want, ratchet-strap between the marks with strong 10' ratchet straps, then with long chainsaw bar I cut up the bundles, re-tighten ratchet straps, then hook on to strap with chain-falls from over-head jib crane mounted on garage wall, then stack the cut-up 18"-ish long x 24" round-ish bundles on shelf, each cut-up bundle weighs about 100lbs+...... I get plenty of heat out of dry pine, hemlock slabs are better, oak slabs I usually end up selling, everything is strapped into bundles, longer slabs are gut off and put back into slab rack, a 2'x2'x8' bundle is all my L3400 can lift........
How long or how many logs will a blade last you ? have you used Jerry's resharp blades ? what is the dimensions of your shed ? Thank you & great videos !
I get 4-6 hours per blade, however, I try to make sure my logs are clean and not dragged on the ground. A dirty log can kill a blade in minutes. I have used Jerry's Ripper-37 blades and like them. Shed is about 9'x25'.
You may want to consider the design of the base of the sawbuck. Might be nice if it could be moved around with you tractor’s pallet forks. That way you could position it close to the mill and then move it to the trailer fully loaded for cutting.
Look at the end of part 1, when I moved it with the forks. That was one of the dimensions I checked before laying out the lumber spacing). It's so heavy I need the tractor to move it!
Thanks again for another great video. I like this design better than my current system.
Thanks for all your great informational videos. One improvement i would make to this design would be a small shelf at the end of the sawbuck, lumber would fall, onto the shelf, That way you are not bending down every time to pick up the cutoffs.
Love the jig. Great idea!
There no real easy way to do this. All involve work for sure. Any advantage we can get is a plus 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yeah, if you could back that trailer under the device that would be sweet, but I haven’t thought through the details yet. Interesting and smart setup, and as is it sure beats the hell out of processing it right off the ground
think you live in Virginia in our area we have white pine and Virginia or hard pine. Can you use the Va pine for most or certain applications ? What is the height of your green cross beams on your mill. Thank you great videos.
If you end up splitting most of those, would it have been more efficient (with your mill setup/layout) to have batch milled (on edge) the larger cutoffs (slabs) while they were still near the mill? i.e. right after the cant is milled into lumber you should still have up to four slabs/cutoffs nearby that could be placed on edge, back on the mill, 4 to 8 slabs at a time then a single pass through the pith. or two passes for kindling width. Then to the sawbuck. ... Just a thought from another Oregon oldish timer (with a rusty axe).
Yep, it would have made a lot of sense to do it then. Sometimes I will put cutoffs back on the mill to get bonus 2x4 lumber but in this case I did not, and I could have ripped the bigger ones down for firewood use and saved time at the splitter.
I put my slabs into a 2'x2'x8' slab-rack right from the mill, strap with two heavy duty plastic straps, then lift out with tractor forks, stack out back on skids til needed.
When it's time to put slabs into firewood I put them into another slab rack, mark out length I want, ratchet-strap between the marks with strong 10' ratchet straps, then with long chainsaw bar I cut up the bundles, re-tighten ratchet straps, then hook on to strap with chain-falls from over-head jib crane mounted on garage wall, then stack the cut-up 18"-ish long x 24" round-ish bundles on shelf, each cut-up bundle weighs about 100lbs+......
I get plenty of heat out of dry pine, hemlock slabs are better, oak slabs I usually end up selling, everything is strapped into bundles, longer slabs are gut off and put back into slab rack, a 2'x2'x8' bundle is all my L3400 can lift........
How long or how many logs will a blade last you ? have you used Jerry's resharp blades ? what is the dimensions of your shed ? Thank you & great videos !
I get 4-6 hours per blade, however, I try to make sure my logs are clean and not dragged on the ground. A dirty log can kill a blade in minutes. I have used Jerry's Ripper-37 blades and like them. Shed is about 9'x25'.
@@Lumber_Jack do you resharpen ? Thank you for the reply
@@logan979 I send them out to be resharpened (about $5 per blade).
@@Lumber_Jack ship or someone local ?
@@logan979 Local but I may try one of the mail order services next time, since it would save me time not to have to drive to/from the local place.
What is the measurements of the saw bucks??
Limiting factor is the length of your chainsaw bar.
48" high, cross pieces 32" above ground, and width about 18" (I use a 20" bar).
Cool. Load the cutoffs over the trailer more, so the drops don't fall on the ground.
I see Lots of 1 x lumber being cut up for fire wood! Oh well, when you got it you can do it. ;) I want a HM 122 So Bad!
You may want to consider the design of the base of the sawbuck. Might be nice if it could be moved around with you tractor’s pallet forks. That way you could position it close to the mill and then move it to the trailer fully loaded for cutting.
Look at the end of part 1, when I moved it with the forks. That was one of the dimensions I checked before laying out the lumber spacing). It's so heavy I need the tractor to move it!