More Sawing, Less Talking - Sawing 1x10 Flooring Boards on my HM122
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- In this video I take a 13" southern yellow pine log and mill a bunch of 1"x10" boards for flooring. I start by squaring up the cant, then slice off boards. At the end, I take the scrap slab and rip it into stickers. There are captions throughout the video explaining some of the key steps.
Its good to see someone running a mill thats knows what they are doing you make it look easy
I just don't film all my mistakes -- there's not enough space on my phone to store all that video!
You helped me get my fix. I've got an HM130Max at my friend's farm, but everything is snowed under right now, and with my bad hip it's hard to get around in the snow, so I'm on hold until it melts. I'm dying to get milling more lumber! I've watched a lot of your videos and I really appreciate them. I wanted to pass along one idea I already use and another I might try to implement. The first is that I've added some boards between the bunks which span across the rails which I use to lay some tools on (like the hand brush I like you use, and my square, etc) I really makes accessing those tools easy when you walk down the side of the Mill.
The other idea relates to getting good 4x4s and 6x6s. I've cut some before but some of them have twisted and warped on me, so I'm thinking I need to centre the pith in the middle of the beam I'm cutting, and that the best way might be to make two small boards (say 3/4" thick, 2" wide and maybe 15" long) and drill a hole near one end for a nail and put 1/2 inch markings on them, and then tap the nails into both ends of the log in the pith with the boards facing up. I'm thinking I could then use my laser level to line the marks up using the toe board so I know the pith is going to be on the horizontal plane, and then after squaring up the cant I can take boards off the outside until I get down to size of beam I want. It's a detailed way of doing it, but I want good lumber. Anyways, just a fews thoughts from someone experiencing withdrawal from cutting lumber.
That's a good idea for tool storage between the bunks. I do keep some boards around to lay across the rails and place a miter-saw on, since the long saw bed makes a great work table for cutting long lumber to length.
For leveling, I just measure both ends of the log to eyeball diameter and avg. radius from pith center to bark. If there is a noticeable difference from end to end, then I raise the small end by the difference in radiuses (or half difference in diameters) to level the pith and make the initial cut. The initial cut will then be ~ parallel to the pith center. Roll 180 and make the next cut without the toe board. Then roll 90 and again use the toe board to lift the small end and level the pith before making the cut. Then roll 180 and make the final cut without the toe board. This will keep the pith pretty well centered but more importantly, it really minimizes waste on tapered logs. See this vid for more: ua-cam.com/video/0cdPwwD-Ors/v-deo.html
Always love to watch a HM122 work. Want one bad! lol
Good job!!
I like your set up man good video.
Looks like you have your mill set the perfect height!
Thanks - it mimics the height of trailer mounted mills I got accustomed to in the past, and is a comfortable height to work around.
That would make a nice table top
Good morning to all from SE Louisiana 23 Jan 22.
Nice job.
I held my breath at 15:00 when you left the clamp crank sticking up and hoped vibration would make it drop, which it did.
Best thing about no-talk videos is, I can watch them at 2X. Life is short.
It looks like you use the locking pin on the head winch. Does it slip if you don't? I took that pin off of my winch because I never used it and got tired of accidentally engaging it.
Yeah, how about that trick, the self-retracting crank! I got in the habit of using the index pin on the winch since it keeps me sawing on fixed 1/16" increments and helps with repeatability. At some point I want to add marks or maybe a rotating dial that I can use to do quick math by counting holes.
The newbie here had never thought about flipping the last piece to get a better board.... :) I have learned from every video I watched from you so far. Thank you Jack. I don't suppose that you use 1/4" stickers to dry lumber... unless you stack them?
How come you don't keep the cant hook up at the other end of the sawmill or just lay it across the two tractor forks to reduce the number of steps to fetch it? You appear to do great work and the mill enclosure is wonderful!
Unless you are just wanting the exercise, I am curious as to why you leave the cant hook at the far end of the sawmill. If you brought it to the end you stat cutting from, where your brush is at, you could save a few straps and some time each time you needed to use it.
Over time I have gotten into the habit of putting certain tools on the opposite end of the shed from where the saw head will be when I need to retrieve the tool -- it just flows better if I don't have to walk around the saw head tensioner/push handles to get the tool.
What will you use the flooring in? A house? Shed? Shop? Nice way.
*work…
This will be porch flooring for our house.
Jack, I have a question. What is the height from the top of the bunks to the ground? Is that a comfortable working height?
Saw base is 22" high which puts the top of bunks at 29" high. Very similar to a trailer-mounted sawmill that is setup to be at a comfortable working height.
The shed you have over your mill. Did you saw all that lumber yourself? Or is that store bought lumber?
All lumber sawn on the mill except for some of the posts and the LVL beam across the front span.
Whenever I watch a milling video I always wonder why people don't cut all the remaining boards after taking off the 3rd slab and leave the last slab on the bottom. Would save a 1/2 turn of the log and leave more height on the cant to cut the final board without being as concerned about hitting the stops. What am I missing here?
Several issues at play. Stability is the main issue and can result in lower quality cuts. For your board cuts, the cant will be a lot more solid and stable if it is resting flat on the bunks and square into the bunk/post corners. This results in less vibration as the blade is moving through the wood and gives cleaner cuts.
Second issue is being able to hold the cant securely as you get lower and closer to the deck. You will need your clamping device (screw type or cam-lock) to get a bite on the flat side of the cant and be positioned below the blade. That won't be possible if the bottom of the cant is rounded, since there won't be a lot to clamp to down low. You'd likely end up having to flip the remnant flat side down for the last 1-2 boards which will add back the extra work in the end.
There is a third consideration on some logs, where you may need to balance the cant around the heartwood to manage stresses in the wood. For that you want an evenly sawed cant. This may require multiple rotations to make balanced cuts as boards get sliced off. But I have found that those problematic logs will put up a fight no matter what. Sometimes I have to abandon a log when every board coming off wants to turn into a hockey stick and the cant wants to turn into a banana. I'd say it happens on about 5-10% of my pine logs. The problem is worse on old logs that have sat around for a while, so cutting fresh cut green logs (within 1-2 weeks) helps avoid this problem.
@@Lumber_Jack TYVM for the detailed response, your answers make good sense.
I like your lean to. What kind of span is on the front and how did you achieve the span?
25'. I used an LVL beam to carry the roof load over that span.
buenas noches donde lo puedo comprar?
Where you from, sir? NC here
Looks like one of your shoelaces was untied during the video. Hope that doesn't keep you awake.