Sail Life - Blue Sea electric panels & first coat of varnish in aft cabin - DIY sailboat refit
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- NB! For meet-up info (click "show more"). I finally get to test-fit the cool new electric panels from Blue Sea and I just barely manage to get the first coat of varnish applied in the aft cabin.
Meet-up info:
/ 1813415495590404
Date: Sunday, April 2 2017
Time: 3.00 PM
Location: Fulton Ale House (1446 Fulton St, Brooklyn, NY 11216, USA)
I hope to see you there! :)
Stuff mentioned in this video:
Blue Sea #8264: www.bluesea.co...
Blue Sea #8358: www.bluesea.co...
Blue Sea #8159: www.bluesea.co...
Links:
Sail Life on Patreon:
bit.ly/SailLife...
Sail Life on Facebook:
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Sail Life on Twitter:
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You wouldn't deprive us of the speedo, surely?
Trust me... You want to be deprived that experience! ;) ua-cam.com/video/fCrKcla7WLg/v-deo.html
Wow.
Haha. But you could feel so European.
So long as it's not a "mankini"
flush mount and surface mount
I install/refit electrical systems for a living. You made excellent choices with Blue Sea products. You will never be sorry for installing swing-down panels. Do NOT rely on terminal blocks behind the larger monitor access panel but rather reserve that space for future remote sub-assemblies/modules. To provide clearance for the adjacent DC swing-down panel, first swing down the smaller adjacent AC panel all the way (almost 180 degrees) down. Limit the DC panel swing to no more than 90-100 degrees. You probably already know that higher voltage means lower amperage which also means "skinnier" wire. Investigate whether or not 400 volt (2-pole+neutral) shore power is available at your marina. If so, then install the proper mating plug/shorepower receptacle. AC motors (for pumps, macerators, water makers, winches, etc.) will soon become a reality. Although the 230V inverter would be acceptable for your single pole receptacle breakers, a generator is more practical for powering (2-pole) higher voltage motors. When swung down, all AC breakers especially 2-pole (400V) breakers, should have rubber boots installed to guard against shock and/or short circuiting from a dropped hand tool. You will also discover that installing a headliner throughout the cabin with a 5 or 6 cm clearance above it, will provide an excellent maintainable access for not only lights and speakers, but also for wire harnesses, mast coax cables, etc. that cannot be easily installed behind side wall panels or under the cabin sole. Hope this helps. Jack, aka electricalpowerguy.
My Sunday feels complete now 😀
Hehe, I'm glad I could help :D
Angry pixies , hehehe , been watchin AvE , careful not to let the smoke out, keep your d**k in a vice.
You should invest some time in learning to scuba, get a ultralight dry suit, and dive gear. maybe consider a portable hookah system for your boat. The Ultralight dry suit allows you to dive in all water temperatures, colder water , more clothing on underneath, warmer water, less clothing. No need to haul out to clean bottom. Put the hookah in your dingy and go dive for some tasty meals when anchored in nice coves.
Could you piano hinge the whole front panel from the right hand vertical side and turn buckle the panel shut. Then you could open it like a cupboard for wiring and the harness could be passed near the hinge into the supply area so not any extra length needed opening and closing?
That is an option! I hadn't thought about that :) Thanks!
YOU COULD SCREW THE PIANO HINGE DIRECTLY TO THE PANEL. THEN PUT A FEW WING NUTS IN TO HOLD IT UP! rePEAT!
I would think the left side would make more sense as the right side isn't actually vertical. As long as the panel swinging would clear the AC panels.
Or, you could hinge the bottom panel. That would give you less access, but it wouldn't interact with the AC panels.
Pretty dang spiffy!
darn tootin! :D
very Fargo!
mudcrutched1 sound like a great t-shirt
I'm guessing "dilly-dally" is also in repertoire somewhere.
That needs to be on a t-shirt...
Great video as always. Particularly like that you share your thinking about various approaches and then turn it into a very well executed end result. BTW - My wife says you are cute and hot, but she is not much for DIY sail things. In short, expect to fight off numerous mermaids when your bristol and well found vessel is well anchored in the trade winds of the Caribbean islands.
ps: My quick survey on the other side of the Atlantic pond indicates that professional varnishers and marine refinishers dislike all types of chemical and solvent varnish strippers in favor of a heat gun and a good scraper (Sandvik!! )
Yet a great video. Looking forward for the rewiring of the boat :)
Hello from Vanløse :)
These AC outlets are they marine specific?
Thanks! :) Me too :P
Tænkte nok du var nogenlunde lokal med det navn ;)
Straighten out the leaning part of the locker and you can put the hinge and seam right in the corner. That should hide it perfectly and be physically possible to pull off.
Box thingy sounds about right for English. At least it does in my shop. Lol.
Hehe, I'm glad I'm not the only one ;)
We call it Surface Mount.
In the A/V and IT world a lot of people call them cheater boxes.
Great video Mads. If you will score the plywood with your utility knife and a straight edge, you can minimize or eliminate the chip-out you are seeing from your jigsaw (or circular saw). Just keep your blade biased the the waste side on the cut. I realize you will probably cover it with trim but it is easy to a chunk that is bigger than your trip.
Mads, I've used Citristrip with good results. The fumes are not dangerous.
I wonder if that is available over here :) I'll have a look :)
Other than the 3 row DC (I have a 2 row with all the blanks filled) I have the same panels. love them and they have a lifetime warranty.. I have 2 shore inputs, one forward and one aft and a gen.
The 220v box is just a surface mount receptacle box. I would call it a "triple gang" box but that is probably slang. Consider using some piano hinge on the right side of the DC panel and make the whole face open like a door. That might make it easier to wire any other instruments below the panel. I hope you have considered the possibility of RF interference between the AC panel and the SSB radio that I assume will be near by and for that matter the computer monitor.
Thanks but Someday Sailor beat you to it :) I'm glad I've learned a new word :) I haven't given much taught to RF interference. The old setup had AC and DC crammed together right next to the SSB. That seemed to work OK. Fingers crossed! :)
You should be fine with a good quality coaxial cable running to your radio. I've got my SSB running past an AC power board in my home and I have no issue with RF interference.
Like most things, in English, it has several names. I refer to them as a 'gang box' or 'electrical gang box', depending on the person I'm talking to.
The AC outlet box in English? No idea since your European electrical equipment is from Mars. 😁
Why can't ya'all just use ours since they're so much better, smaller, easier? And while you're at it y'all should speak English while you're at it. It's so much easier! Just kidding. As I've said before your English is great (better than many Americans) and as always your work is impeccable and your production techniques MUCH appreciated! See you again soon. I'd go see you in NYC but people (crowds) make me nervous so I'll stay home. Wish you'd visit me. 😁🇺🇸
Haven't watched for about a year and just binged to catch up, whew. I would add to your earlier video on engine room insulation that a company called "soundproof cow" has some composite sound barrier/absorption products that are very very good. In particular the QUIET BARRIER™ SPECIALTY COMPOSITE W/PSA is very good and easy to cut and install. Don't know if you can find it in Denmark tho. You need a composite material with both absorption and barrier properties to quiet that Volvo diesel. Keep up the good work.
The distribution panel on our boat has the hinge at the bottom of the actual panel. You might need to cut a little more clearance for the swing at the top but it would save you from a visible cut. Great video.
For the DC panel seamless cut, just make the cut and cut a new piece from scraps to replace the small right end. You'll already have a template! Make is slightly wider and plane to fit!
Regarding the varnish stripper, I wonder if the fumes would damage other parts of the boat (paints, varnishes, metals, rubber seals...)
You could do access to the blue sea panel #8264 from underneath the panel instead of flipping the panel down.
From underneath? How would that work? :)
Sail Life as in a trap door underneath with a hatch to access from when you lean backwards on the table
Next time Mads, consider a full overlay door with 35mm Euro hinges. www.rockler.com/hardware/hinges/frameless-hinges Barring that you can always attach a molding strip to the door side of the existing gap.. Good luck . Love your vlog!
If I did not live in Iceland, then I would dive under Obelix and clean propeller. but I'm in Iceland. is not a diving club in Skive? maybe they could help you. Greetings from the former colony of Denmark, Iceland.
ps. hello to Jökull.
Mads, just thought i'd let you know something I did the other night, I went to a major retail store and logged onto their free wifi back in the electronics department. I then pulled up Sail Life on You Tube.... on every single computer display! Of course I "Accidentally " hit the play all channel on all of them. oops hahaha. So enjoy the free publicity. Keep up the good work sir. Fair winds Ed Russell
Hey Mads, I think you can get cupboard hinges that offset the door when you open them. Try Ikea. Maybe you can find something that works for the AC board (in combination with a press in lock).Too bad you're not closer, I'd do that prop for ya nice n comfy in my drysuit. Maybe you can find a diver. Ever think of Prop-Antifouling? Haven't tried it myself but heard you can get away with a clean prop for a few years even, if you use the prop regularly.
running a kerosene heater inside a wood/fiberglass boat? With fabric work gloves (used with flammable liquids?) placed directly in front of it?!! yikes!
source: fire investigator
I've been following your refit closely. I don't see a main AC breaker - what will you be using for main AC protection?
Also I believe you should hinge the DC panel. They are tough to wire without good rear access. Without rear access after wiring the panel is pushed back for installation and the excess wire is messy. I wouldn't worry about the gap if it is hinged.
Brian
Marine electrician in Victoria B.C.
Best varnish stripper I've ever used is called Ready Strip. It's from the states though, so not sure if you'll be able to find it in Europe. That said, it's amazing. No odour what so ever, non toxic, easy to remove and get rid of leftovers and it changes Color to tell you when it's ready to be removed. Actually, I'm in the middle of producing my own DIY vlog in which I'll be demonstrating how I used to strip off some old varnish myself. I'll send you a link when it's finally online.
Looks like you can get to the prop from a dinghy instead of dipping yourself. Hypothermia comes on pretty bloody quick even if you have a good dry suit. And going under the water with a survival suit I don't think you'll be able to..
Good luck with whatever you try...
You really are a pendant and it's wonderful to watch.
Warren
Hello. I've just caught up by binge watching all the episodes of you fixing up Athena. Excellent work. Did I catch a glimpse of a oven in the galley when you were showing us the door? Last I saw of that spot it was covered with stainless. Did I miss something?
We love your weekly videos, and your meticulous work that you do. But only one small criticism, please oh please find another greeting then " Hi Guys" good god man you must have another greeting, Like good morning people, or just Hello welcome back. And to do something about the ta da expression,, I am sure you are more articulate. Continue the interesting the project and videos we love your work. J krzysik
Awesome got me weekly video fix... It's Looking really good, are you going to install any shelves for accessories, like drawing compass and pencils, books and such ?
Mads, I have been restoring a 30 foot Catalina I bought for $5.00. She has good bones but needed a lot of work. I was very scared to drill, cut and grind into the fiberglass. After watching your videos I have realized that I can do that work. Thanks for the inspiration!
WOW !! I wish I could go to New York and meet you Mads ; but I am disabled and really can't travel . I hope you make videos like always . I will have fun vicariously thru great videos you always take like always .
Always a very helpful and entertaining video. I love the fact that you use hand tools to do trim work like that small support that was in the way of the DC panel. I must admit, I likely would have just trimmed off 3 cm and not carved the groove in the support :) The Panels look great !!
Great video as usual. Your English is impeccable but please stop watching american cartoons, your use of 'dang' is driving me crazy ;)
I think the terminal blocks is a great idea. You would never need to have access to the back of the panel, and you could label those blocks and it would be easy to troubleshoot any problems you might have in the future. One thought is, and this has always been a general rule for electrician, splices will always be the weakest link in any electrical circuit. Just food for thought. I will try to join you on 4/2/2017. Thanks.
Mads, we use to call those back boxes by the shorten name J-box. That is j for junction. The long name would be a surface mount junction box. I saw some one below call it a pattress or pattress box. That is also correct.
Do you have plans to move the Lagoon Leg and table from Oblix to Athena? Do you still have the link to that product. I might be spelling it incorrectly.
When I worked at a Corvette Dealership in Florida, we tried all kinds of liquid strippers and all of them were sub par. Then we tried an Aircraft Paint Stripper. It had a picture of a DC-10 or Boeing 747 on it. I used it to strip the Corvettes paint, the valve cover paint and their tire rims clear coat. Now I had to use it liberally, but it actually would lift the paint like the other products show in the pictures on their product cans. Don't you love that? You see it in the picture and hope it works like that, but it does not. Maybe they use Aircraft Paint Stripper for the product photos?
Hope this helps Mads.
I am completely devastated because I did not manage to see the Single Board Computer. I don't think I can wait any longer.. ;-)
I really enjoy watching your videos. The people from your country must be wonderful if you are an example of them. Also you are doing a great job on the sail boat. Great job, keep it up.
Angry pixies? another Ave fan? shame on blue sea for not supplying a template for the most expensive part ... btw you could fit the ply holding the DC distribution panel using Keku clips i use them a lot on commercial installations .. will give you quick and easy access to the gubbings behind and no unsightly seem ... great work as usual :)
For no more often than you'd need access, I'd just remove the four (?) screws and pull the panel out. You're doing a good job on your boat AND the videos. Thanks
"Box thingy" I think translate to "surface mount, modular electrical box".
In the US we don't have modular electrical outlets, or at least they are not common.
As I suggested previously, a soy based stripper works very well on thinner coatings like varnish. It brushes on and starts working immediately. The finish literally melts and starts running down like hot butter! You need paper towels or old rags to mop up the melted finish. Almost no scraping and a small stiff nylon brstle brush will take care of the nooks and crannies. Best of all? Non toxic, biodegradable!
One old method to repair the rubbed off area would be to fill it up with color coded wood filler then simply paint the wood grain with acrylic paint. I restored a few cabinets using this method. You'd really have to look to see the repair.
Worst i've fixed was a 1800s glass window cabinet where in time, the shelves were simply worn off by the repeated removal of items. Even wet stains, because some people think it's ok to just put it to dry there (nevermind the mold...).
another great episode Mads. The first coat looks awesome. Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan
What do you do when you sail to New York and you have 120 VAC shore power vs 220 VAC shore power?
Can you hinge the breaker panel? Mine from MSI is hinged to allow a horizontal swing. The mount screws secure the breaker panel, then get removed to allow the hinge to do its thing. Slightly inconvenient, but workable.
Regarding your panel, I would try to make the panel itself open?? But I'm not sure if that would be stable.
Mange hilsner fra Rene. :)
Whenever varnishing, use the biggest brush possible - especially when laying on the early coats when you are trying to build up the surface film.
When I am using a satin or matte finish varnish, I do the first few coats in gloss, with the satin reserved for the last two or three coats. The flattening agent in the satin varnish takes away clarity of the grain if used for too many coats, i.e., 5-7 coats.
How about a horizontal piano hinge across the bottom of the 12V panel. You know that you will be wanting to get in and make changes/additions in the future, and that would simplify things.
Looking good!
Hi Mads, Great video. What's your thoughts on using an AC priority switch which automatic selects shorepower when available ? Have you chosen the manual switch for a reason ?
For access behind the panel have you thought of a piano hinge on the left side on the inside so it folds out towards your left side? BTW keep up the great work.
Another enjoyable video Mads, been great to follow the refit. One aspect that concerned me while watching is that your DC switch panel is going to butt or collide with the headlining panels when they go back in, particularly on the left end. I expect it is me, my eyes, your camera or just none of my business but thought I'd mention. Keep on keeping on!
Great episode as usual Mads! I'm not sure if your aware of this, but the March/April issue of Good Old Boat magazine had a nice write up about you; in the article about You Tube channels.
Is that size selector switch approved?
I can't help thinking that it locks small and flimsy. The breakers you use for even 1-phase equipment like small fans and air-conditioner are the size of half that panel, and I think they are intended for much the same use.
Really enjoying the channel. I find it strange hearing about your Ice melting, I just did the anti fouling on the bottom of my Hunter 34 in temperatures ranging from 30 to 44 degrees. at least I had a cool swim after I finished. enjoy the cold water. best wishes from Sydney Australia.
Hi Athena......in the past video you mentioned about your Bosch sander disc's not sticking to the pads anymore, I have a similar problem with mine. You said you had a link to replacement pads for the sander can you send it again ? Sorry for the trouble
You could cut that line you mentioned, but hide it with some overlapping frame. That would destroy the nice look of the board holding the AC distribution panel, but would be nicer to look at than a simple cut.
Best wishes from Northern Germany!
Dude, don't worry about the seam. Make the back of the panel accessible, you will thank yourself many times over later on.
What would you think about removing the wall for the port aft cabin? I know it might seem a bit crazy, but you would be able to open up a lot of space, and make access to all the instruments and panels easier during sailing? Also when editing videos and working on the computer you would be sitting in a more open space if you know what I mean? Pretty sure it would be structurally possible, maybe with a small support beam etc. Just my thoughts, great videos, keep it up!
If you were to put a piano hinge on the back/bottom of tour DC Panel would the angle on its forward edge allow it to clear the selector and AC panel as it folded down like a table? Second thought, what about a piano hinge at the forward edge? It would swing like a door but wouldn't swing level. On the bright side of that it would hold itself open as you wire or investigate issues in the future. I really enjoy watching your work! It has helped me in my refit. The ziplock bag for thickened epoxy was genius.
Great video , I had the same problem on my refit regarding the doors , was not happy with scarfing in new veneer. If it is fairly central, why not cut a ventilation hole in its place and then cover it over with a metal or plastic vent ? , or even a premade teak louvre vent , you can't have to much ventilation! . I also fitted Blue Sea equipment on board my boat Florence May a Twister 28 , with good results, are you going to fit "buzz bars " behind , to keep the wires neat and professional looking ? . Look forward to the next one
Hi. Good to See your progress on the Athena. My Advice for you for that you don't cut that front face is one of the two. 1 you put a 5 or 6.inch oval Speaker on the left Side of that Box. 2 choice is to put a Exes removable cover instead of same spot. Me Would go for a Speaker . Good job. Nick New York.
Could you walk us through a schematic of Athena's entire electrical circuitry plan?
Funny, how your filling on a back wall look like 3 dimension, at 16.45-17.00, even i now it is sanded flat.
Thanks Mads - I was thinking it might be more appropriate to call your chart table area "Command Central". Perhaps you can start the engine on Oblix and just rev it up a little. With some good cavitation, you might be able to get enough of the growth off to avoid either of your stated options.
Ron
He Mats, maybe you can use this "snapperslot" (don't know what it is called in Danish). This way you can keep the panel smooth and still easily remove the panel.
goo.gl/images/k955Up
I share this information on the sole condition you NEVER threaten us with your speedos again. I have been trying to sleep and my mental image is of something I would rather not have ever had. How to hide the cut in the panel. The clever way would be to use a large grain facia like oak. Cuts appear and blend in better with the natural grain. You could slide the front panel to the left then allow the panel to drop forward but my favourite when I have a blemish I need to hide is make a feature of it. If you put framing around the equipment but one piece is covering the cut nobody will ever see the panel. If the false framing is put on the front panel as well (just for aesthetic balance) it will hide your cut in the sheet even more. If you use these ideas or any dirivative of them, remember, NO SPEEDOS!
As for hiding the seam, you could affix a thin 1" or 2.5cm strip of trim to the panel side. When it closes it will cover the seam. Using the same trim around the other panels even sparingly will remove any questions about why it is there. I wish I had a picture to show you but just think about it and let me know if you have any questions.
Nitromors used to be really good but they changed the formulation (probably due to some horribly toxic ingredient) and now it's safe but it doesn't work.
I think that hinge like you fabricated for 22" monitor would be best solution for accessing back of A/C distribution panel innards as well.
Excellent work and a jolly good vid too.👍If you go diving on Obelix in this weather you will really only need small Speedos.😳
Paramose. Knarly stuff for removing paint & varnish. I think it's professional use only but you may be able to get hold of some but you'll need lots of protective clothing. It's at least 5x stronger than nitromors.
Funny! I started to look a bunch of videos of your channel during the last days (made those sad wheather days a lot better!). So fine to see that the work goes on. I got a smile on my face thinking about what would happen, if you dont upload a new video on sunday evening.. .I guess the followers will think that something happened .... accident or what ever on the boat. So I think if this would happen, the guys here would call the police or a doctor to look if everything is fine! Best regards from germany.
Nitro Mors is crap now 😟 ...it was good years ago, but then the health and safety wonks stopped them putting the effective ingredients in it. I haven't found any really effective stripper for years either
Hello,
In regards to the larger panel. You could use a Piano hinge vertically with a push magnet to open and close the door. This would keep it from shaking. Similar to a glass door on an entertainment center. Thank you for opening up your boats to us. I enjoy the videos you produce every week.
As for the DC panel I would go with, the way you did not like. Hinge on the left side and cutting the panel on the right. The reason being, that you may want to use the extra space for, radio, DC batteries monitor AC voltage monitor. Opening the panel on the left would give you a better access to the space and access to the DC panel I would also put all DC terminals in that space, and the AC in the other section. My 2 cents anyway
Hi Mads, hope you are well! I've been looking in on your videos for a while now and really enjoying your progress! We are on the same trajectory as you at the moment, planning to be living aboard fairly soon and off on a year or two career break. Check us out at www.ragdollsailing.wordpress.com
As for accessing your DC panel, in reality, how often do you really need to get behind it? If you have done a good job of selecting your wire size and so on, once it's in, its in - that should be it. On mine its just the panel held in with 4 screws, and its been off maybe twice last season when adding a light and a wireless multiplexer! Maybe the panel off the hull facing aft could have a small door in it that would just allow a visual check and a hand to get behind the panel to wiggle things when needed? It may be more than enough, and would keep the clean installation at the front. If you leave enough length in the wiring Then you have only the 8 screws to dismantle and lower it to the chart table where it can be easily worked on when needed when you have to add things.
I really like the overall theme in there. Are you painting the bulkhead itself white? Think that would look sharp and keep it bright and airy. What about the panels for the AC and DC parts? White too with varnished trim? Cant wait this see this area come together!
Good Show!
Chris
I use Jasco paint or epoxy remover here in the States. Works great but it's fumey and messy. Also, most removers use wax in their formula, so you have to be very careful to remove all of it when you clean up, otherwise you may get "fisheye" in your varnish coat.
You need quick access, similar to that of the screen, to the back of that panel. Find a way to get the hinge in there with some clever covering trim? Really enjoyed the video. Thank you for the info.
How about mounting the low volt panel on some drawer slides? You could slide the unit forward for service and clip it back to lock the slides.
A little lateral thinking but it would be a good solution.
Very much enjoying the series, the detail is just great, good luck.
Thanks again for sharing another great video Mads. I look forward to watching them when I get up on Monday mornings. Have you considered leaving the damaged door as is? I think it would add character to the boat and you could lay up some clear epoxy to help with water proofing.
I used Citristrip on my cabin doors with pretty good results - you just need to be sure to get it all off or the varnish will form a what I call a void around any residue. Good luck! Bruce
Hi Mads and thanks for excellent videos.
Have you considered whether you can mount the panel on sliding rails?
That way you only need to loosen the screws and slide the panel out.
Greeting Tom V.
Here's an idea for hinging your DC panel. Cut the plywood about 3/4 inches all around the panel. Hinge it along the bottom. To cover the seem, mount thin trim around the plywood that the panel is mounted on, overlapping the seem. You would need a hinge that swings out in order to clear the trim on the bottom.
Will you be adding in a number of well places USB charging ports, handy for the obvious as well as mini usb fans or small strip lights like the goal zero ?
Ok, not crazy about the L-shaped cupboard in the small-enough-already space. Put all electronics on wall where flat screen currently is. Mount flat screen against port hull on one of those cool hinged brackets so you can pull it out directly in front of you, raise, lower, or restore to side as needed (if such a contraption exists). You do not need access to the back of screen as much as you need access to back of panel. Just sayin'.
How about USB charging outlets? Should do your camera / phones etc save a load of space with big plugs and make the interior bang up to date.
Do the polar bear plunge! Or you could rent a dry suit from a scuba diving instruction place. Or buy a wetsuit.
You can actually buy "paper" thin wood veneers in your choice of wood, you might even be able to find a "cant tell" match of what you have on that door. Then it's just a matter of lots of sanding, and a very careful epoxy job
You should stick with water based strippers in order to avoid the fumes emitted by the others. Here is one firm who makes a water based stripping agent. Those fumes are not healthy at all where non-water based strippers are concerned. www.dumondchemicals.com/water-based-paint-removal.html
Yes, quite disappointing Blue Sea did not include a paper template for their panel.
Use epoxy to secure machine screw anchors to the cabinet to facilitate the easy removal of that DC panel without wearing out wood screw holes to provide easy access. Make sure you bundle the wires correctly so you only have one bundle whose wires all have the same slack in them. Make the wire slack long enough to allow for the panel to be placed down onto the chart table.
If you are going to be running any high powered radio gear, mount those units below the cabinet to insure proper cooling for them. IF you put them into that panel you will have to have some forced air flow through the cabinet.
I think those are called eletrical "Gangbox" but not sure what the "official name is called
looks like that one piece that covers the shore power connection has a drip/run in it post varnishing. ;)
I see that other people have already suggested hinging the panel so I will not annoy you with that suggestion, although I think I just did.My concern is that you only seem to turn your heater on when you are planning to do work on your boat. I am concerned because of your girlfriend, Wilma. I know that whenever Wilma is on camera she is smiling but her eyes seem to be dilated and distance. I think this is an early sign of hypothermia. I would recommend that you start leaving that heater on so the poor girl doesn't freeze to death in there. This also might improve your chances of some other activities besides just working on the boat.
You could just access the main large panel by taking the screws out of the front and leaving enough wire length to pull it out.
If you were worried about the screws wearing out their purchase you could put a bit of backing around the inside of the hole and then use machine screw inserts.
Also whatever you chose to do, that idea you had of using terminal blocks is a great one! It's been my experience that it saves many times whatever the cost was in terms of time spent installing it. And it makes for super easy and electrically sound additions whenever they come along which they undoubtedly will eh?
I have an idea that meets your criteria using neodymium magnets. On all four corners drill a small hole for the magnets to counter sink. Then get yourself some round magnets the neodynamiam strong ones. Using six 10 west systems epoxy glue in place. leave an edge in the cobbled to grab and take the side off. I did this with my boat and was very pleased with it.
Hey Mads, are you sure you have room for headliner above your distribution panel - looks tight?
Make it so that you can slide it to the left, by using an oversize hinge that is not completely shut, when the lid is in place, but only when you slide it to open. If this is not clear, I completely understand. Then I would gladly explain it in Danish over the phone. just drop me a note.
For your 12v panel, you could put a piano hinge on the aft side of the the locker so that panel can swing open to aft, without having a seam. You get full access to the back of the panel. Not sure if you would have clearance from the forward side of locker where your AC panels are.