Great video Alex, just a wee tip. The date corrector spring can be fitted through the slot after the retainer plate is fitted. Makes for an easier assembly without everything going awry while fitting the plate.
Getting all those pivots in a single train wheel bridge in just five minutes on that movement is astounding. I'm not 100% sure, but it looks an awful lot like the Miyota 8200 and if so, you've beat me by about ten hours... so far. It's the only movement I've ever given up on. I finally decided 35 cents per hour was just about what my services are worth so I bought a new one for $35.00. Maybe someday I will try again if I can't find a noose to fit my neck.😋
Hmm, I have a fake Rolex with a sbizz movement and within reason its well within any expectations. Haven't even used for 30 years and it winds up and just runs and keeps pretty good time too. Only real gripe is that the keyless switching to date movement its really finicky about being in the right place to move the calendar, but the actual watch side is great. Then my dad offloaded me the other x2 he acquired from somewhere like Russia at the time and it seems I already had the good one :D The other 2....one had a bent hairspring so pretty useless. The other wasn't running well or consistently at all and probably like this badly lubricated although a totally different/older movement. I put myself in for a world of pain by getting x2 of these movements from aliexp as they were advertised as being submariner like movements. Although they fit in the case, I have found the feet were also in the wrong place and different stems lol. and then managed to rookie mess up the keyless works so both new ones need TLC anyway. One of them, the date movement isn't even working properly and now got that in bits to try and relocate the stem properly. I don't plan to really do anything with the watches (god forbid actually wearing them) but its cool to learn a little hobbyist about watches in general already learnt stuff I didn't know, and fixed 2-3 quartz movement watches but the automatics demand much more respect. Now I know why most "common repairers" only do quartz - but IMO a "real" serious watch has to have some kind of manual or automatic movement and much kudos to these serious watch repairers like the video OP ^^^
@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove a widespread opinion is that they are generally vastly improved just by cleaning and proper reassembly with proper lubrication and regulation. the chinese assembly process seems to be quite variable across countless factories, so you see reports of dirt and hairs and scratches and over-oiling. i've also seen claims that some factories don't lubricate, because you're far more likely to have a movement returned from over-oiling than if you just don't bother. probably plenty of factories do good work, but afaik the odds are good that clean & lube will make a noticeable improvement. i have a bunch of cheap Tevise watches that i assume are DG2813 and they have run flawlessly for years. even the automatics that don't stay wound have surprised me by coming good after a few months' use. they all look very clean inside the case, too. all i have done is regulate by trial and error and easily got the error (often well) under 10 sec, so i'm not surprised they are ok watches when cleaned up. i watch these videos because obviously i'd like to pull one apart, but frankly there's no pressing need. if there's an odd man out, it's the GMT 3804, which seems to have suffered from the extra complexity. hard to regulate, doesn't keep consistent time, dodgy keyless works ... but it's my favorite (absolute cheapest explorer clone) and it's run 24/7 for a couple of years and never needs winding. and on its worst day it's probably -30 sec, which some people apparently think is acceptable. i daydream about swapping the movement out just for skits and giggles but the honest truth is that a better watch won't make a meaningful difference to my life. the fact is that a cheap chinese movement is a beautiful thing, and it's kind of a shame they're to cheap to fix
i know this is an old comment, but i gotta share this- my nephew ended up w a fake panerai somehow and i shit you not, there was a piece of rice jammed through the movement, u could see it thru the gallery back@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove
Alex i disassembled the movement after i first assembled it following your fantastic vid .and the amplitude was very low 150 ish and the watch on the the timagraph was all over the place .no good so i took it apart and cleaned the parts and dried them in isopropyl alcohol the reassembled it with new oil in my pots and what a difference 250 amplitude and with a bit of adjustment 0 ms beat error and 0 sec in 1 position a nice straight line on my timeragraph normally i've only seen that on swiss movements ETA and the like
Funny, I just watched Mr. Tosado assemble the DG 2813, but it didn't work when he was finished. I(I noticed he'd posted here too.) I'd had the same problem, I made many attempts to get the bridge for the five wheels. Impressive you made it look easy. I'm a beginner and I had to give up to save my sanity.
Excellent video! You are a watch lover in order to dedicate such an effort even for a not-so-expensive movement. I learnt a lot, and I will try to do the same with my CN watch. Thanks.
Yes that bridge with all those pivots to align is a trial but cleaned and oiled the DG2813 can be a reliable no-frills movement.I was given a watch with this movement that kept stopping,after a clean and oil it is now working reliably.
I have a couple of these. Thanks to this video, I think I'll have a crack at one, it'll give me experience of a new movement and a break from the NH35. Many thanks!
Thanks. This is a great explanation of using what oils where. Glad to see that I’m not the only one struggling with this particular movement. I’m still fighting with that bridge.
Wow Alex I lucked out… I’m Don no this movement right now and the automatic drive wheel to the barrel was a mystery and I left it out🥴 now I know where the heck it goes!! Thanks for posting
Oh man thanks for this video. Bought one of these on Amazon for $20. This will be my second teardown and rebuild successfully in 4 nights lol. What a rewarding experience this was. The Seagul st36 I learned on was child's play in comparison to this mind bender. Gin and Tonic was the key for setting that bridge lol.
Great video, I was following along until the last spring for the date advancement shot out and got away from me. I've been searching my station and surrounding area for days now looking for it. Let this be a lesson to you, try work inside of something that has a limited brightly lit area. lol
Superb work! Thank you for lubricating scheme. btw: I installed the date jumper spring after the covering the movement with the last pate . There is an opening for them.
Hey Alex, I already subbed to your other channel, I thought this was you, when I saw the barrel and arbour video, honestly I've binged so much I recognised your rings lol Anyway, I've subbed here too, absolutely wonderful content brother, thank you for sharing 👍
I know a lot of people feel movements like this or not worth servicing, but part of the fun is making them run better and longer than they were supposed to
By any chance do you know what mainspring size i need for this? Seems to be a very popular movement. Mine was soaked in oil and didn't have much power. Maybe 12 hours. Movement had no info. Really glad you made this video 😂🙌
Hi, i think multi purpose grease is the best for watch lubrication, just applying a film of it with a toothpick. Or if you dont want to disassemble the watch simply dissolving it in brake parts cleaner and apply it like oil, this will leave a thin film of grease between the parts. For cleaning parts i just put them into a plastic cup and swirl them in brake parts cleaner. For the mainspring i use silicongrease, mostly for corrosion protection.
cheers alex this might be a cheap movement but because of that fact and also the train bridge with the 5 pivots to line up i think it's a beautiful movement to learn on with life the only lesson learned the hard way are remembered everything that's easy is forgotten
One of the great things about these movements, and all Chinese movements in general is that there’s usually quite a bit of room for improvement in doing a proper service. One of the big complaints about Chinese made movements, especially when they’re in a watch is that they tend to only last a couple years before problems come up. This is due primarily to the lack of lubrication. That’s done by machine which tends to either be too much or too little both or bad.
Thank you for this video. I am new to horology and have some cheap Rotaries and Accurists from the late 60s that just work. When comparing those movements with a movement like the DG2813, what makes the chinise movement inferior? Quality of materials? Clumsy design? Other? Thank you 😊
I’ve been able to get the bridge without it, but man, it was more luck than anything. I’ve had an idea on how to help install these Miyota-type bridges. I’m going to try to find some rod stock the right diameter, cut it to about 1” long, then thread it the same size as the train bridge screws, screw them in the three screw holes and use them as a sort of “track” to guide the bridge down without the lateral slip/slide I always get when I try to install it with tweezers. I’ll report back when I try it.
Great video. Working on a similar movement right now from a different manufacturer, and yes that bridge is really a hassle 😅. The barrel arbor holding tool you're using, can you tell what size it is, I know it comes in different sizes?
Dixmont looks like it means something like ten mountain. I don’t know what I’d call a product meant for the Chinese market. Fascinating that things like this movement even exist!
Sei un grande!Non snobba questo movimento a differenza di altri orologiai cerchi di recuperarlo e sicuramente andrà benissimo,è come un meccanico che aggiusta solo Ferrari e non vuole vedere le vecchie 500 perché sono scadenti,pessima gente!!
Great job 👏. I had to replace the balance wheel on mine due to over winding the movement. These dont like being over wound. Best thing is about 10 winds and just wear it IMHO. I guess yhe movement if worn on a daily basis might with a bit of luck last a couple of years, maybe three. I noticed some of the pivots were loose in the jewels on reassembly. I got a replacement movement from Ali Express for about six USD and swapped out the balance wheel. Nice Job, I hope the watch works well 👍
Thanks for this. I’m super new to but on my it’s a a358 or something but very similar. Time and date only. No hack. But got to unwind the spring to remove the hand set. It’s on my holder but still ticking with dail attached
Good video! Can you tell me in what position to put the seat post of a 2813 GMT movement so that I can extract it and not have problems when replacing it? The seller says that the manufacturer recommends doing it in the calendar position and by doing that I have already destroyed 4 movements. Thank you
I totally used these to practice cleaning and servicing since a few of my watches came with this movement and I figured, "If I break it, I can get a new one for $20!" 😂
Alex you make it look so easy when i flipped the movement over to work on the keyless side the mainspring fell out .have i missed something i have followed the vid from the very beginning and im stumped ?
Wonder If you can help me out. I have a DG movement similar to the one in this video. There are two protrusions from the plate holding the center jewel. One at 5 o'clock which has one largish hole in it, and one at 7'o'clock which has two yellow dots. (shown at 18:19 minutes) Can you tell me which one is used to adjust the speed?
The arm coming off the balance that has the two yellow dots that you refer to is the regulator arm. If you move it towards the other arm, that’s situated right above the DG emblem at 18:19 that slows the rate down. If you move it in the opposite direction it speeds up the rate
as a drop in replacement, basically no. [ _conceivably_ the new miyota gmt is a match, but you can't buy them yet and they will be *pricey* when you can.] At minimum you'd likely be replacing hands and maybe repositioning dial feet with most movements. i'm an optimistic person and inclined to believe that any movement can be made to work with enough shims and homebrew movement holders and dodgy stuff, but you're better off simply buying the cheapest watch with the movement you like, or just buying new 3804's until you get a good one
Thanks for the detailed video! Your camera work is really nice too :) any tips for installing date spring? ...is it better to do it before or after the coverplate?
@@thewatchsmith2773 Yes indeed though there is an opening in the coverplate at the date spring .... I've seen some(probably not as experienced as you) that install the coverplate and then install the date spring through the opening in the coverplate.
Awesome video. I have an old 2813 lying around. I had pulled out the stem in time setting position and had to take apart the keyless works. Long story short, it flew off into space. My question is what can I use to replace it or can I just use it as a manual movement?
Hey Alex, How do you like to clean your oilers when switching between oils? I've seen some stick the oiler in a piece of rodico, some use foam, and others seem like they have a dedicated oiler for each oil type. What's your preferred? Also how often (and by what method) do you clean your oil pots? Thanks!
I give you 10 likes for your detailed instructive video, you saved me a from a total loss of a watch with that same movement. I had no idea what this was until your video, and I needed it because mine stopped running (maybe over wound) so I opened it, took out the stem and it fit stuck in time set position. Well I tried to reposition the yoke then the damn spring came out. After your assembly I just hope it will run, if not can I send it to you for lubrication? 😁
What if I tell you that this one has been the first movement I disassembled and assembled again successfully? I almost gave up thinking that watchmaking is a stupidly difficult profession only for tiny little dwarfs with superpowers like super fine vision and super steady hands. But later I did a A. Schild vintage movement and I realized that quality movements are a lot easier to manipulate that those chinese movements with cristal-like fragile pivots and bubblegum screws. And that 5 pivot bridge you said it takes 5 minutes to assemble, for me was around two and a half hours of pure pain.
As I try to follow this reassembly I don’t understand what holds the barrel when you turn the movement over. The second pinion does stick due to the oil (just the existing one I haven’t tried clean and lubricating yet ) but the barrel just falls off. Is moving to skip that and go back to the keyless work later. But I am curious what makes it work for you.
Im new to servicing. Im quite the tinkerer, so i ordered a cheap Winner automatic to begin to get my feet wet. Do i need a specific variety of lubrications and if so, what do you recommend?
This may be a dumb question, but I’m in the struggle bus. How do I actually get the barrel open? I’ve tried pushing on the arbor from either side, trying to wedge it open, flexing it a little (this is just a practice movement, if it gets damaged in the learning process, it won’t break my heart). What am I missing?
Alex, I’m new to this hobby. I have the dg2813 disassembled. What is the free spinning cog that’s attached to the arbor/barrel lid. Should I be able to remove it from the lid/ arbor? I’ve watched this video over and over again. Initially the cog is not present then it shows up in the next scene. Please help.
they are very similar to miyota 8215. you'll have to research whether this is exactly correct or close enough. quartz tends to be quite different from mechanical movements in stem height and hand sizes so it's a difficult replacement. Tevise make some models (T801) that come in quartz and automatic, and it's _possible_ their quartz movement is a replacement for DG2813 but it's difficult to work out what movements are in chinese watches, especially for quartz. it's definitely easiest to buy more 2813 movements and hope you get a good one
Is there an advantage to have the movement running before taking out balance jewels for lubrication? Seems like it adds difficulty with the chaton bouncing around a little bit there.
Ive had one running since 2017. Cleaned and lubricated in 2020 and still running. -4 seconds per day. Id like to see how long i can keep it running by service every 5 years lol
@@thewatchsmith2773 ¡¡ YES !! I WILL TRY YOUR TECHNICALLY, ASSEMBLY ( I BOUGHT 3 FOR PRACTICE & NOT EASY TO PUTTING IT " LID " OR COVER"BOTH OF THEN DO NOT HAVE TRADITIONAL SWEEP SECOND " PIN' JUST A HOLE TO PRESS THE SECONDS HAND . { GOOD JOB !!! } ¡¡ GRAZIE, MOLTO PROFESSIONALE !!! . RALPH 🙏.
@@COSTASV1969 oh, you didn’t bother me at all. I was just curious if you had a factory source. When I don’t have a factory sauce, I do my own test to determine which I did, but I could’ve made a mistake. It wouldn’t be the first time. If I’m off a couple degrees on the lift angle, that might put me about 10° off on the amplitude, but the rates would be the same.
I didn’t see anything that resembles a click, how do you let down the power on this one? Also, mine winds spring with the stem pushed in and activates the date jumper when pulled out, but in neither position does it set the time. How do I see the time?
I want to practice assemble/disasemble on this movement before i start to work on the real thing eta2824. This will be my first time ever disasemble movement. Does this movement will be good one to start with. It is very cheap to buy.
Did you find the lubrication to be missing/minimal on the factory movement? I have heard that some of the Chinese movements do not get lubricated properly or at all.
Great video, you have steady hands! I just reset the keyless works on a 2813 and lost the date spring :( .... tried making one out of a guitar spring and it worked for 15 minutes but no bananas ...... Got any idea how I could source another date spring?
That spring you are replacing is probably flat right? The method to make a flat spring requires holding the wire in 2 vices and then drawing 2 parallel files across it slowly tightening the files until you are at the desired thickness. Short of doing that, check the supply houses for an assortment of springs. You might get lucky.
Does the oil on the ends tone work its way into the hole jewel, I didn't see you oil the hole jewel. Apparently the oil is drawn to the hole jewel through capillary action?
If I have a new watch that uses the 2813, are there any spots on the movement I should oil that are accessible by simply removing the case back (and not disassembling the movement)?
According to the timegrapher agter service this movement the results on the timegrapher are great. Although uou claim that the design is not great. The issue is the quality of matirial the parts are made. So what was your impression? What need to be done in order that the main plate and bridges will be polish?
5 pivots in one bridge is a test of patience, but after a little experience its easy; if you carefully pull back the click and then set the winding/reversing wheel. I hold back the click while dropping the plate onto the pivots AND while manipulating the wheels. Other methods is manipulating the click with the stem or actually lifting the click spring over the click...pain in the ass but doable.
Great video Alex, just a wee tip.
The date corrector spring can be fitted through the slot after the retainer plate is fitted.
Makes for an easier assembly without everything going awry while fitting the plate.
yes sir, have heard that. Thanks for watching brother
27:00 If i was reading your comment a month ago, i would save time for a 3804 movement : same trick !!
THANK YOU
Yes. It works
I lost the spring 😔
Getting all those pivots in a single train wheel bridge in just five minutes on that movement is astounding. I'm not 100% sure, but it looks an awful lot like the Miyota 8200 and if so, you've beat me by about ten hours... so far. It's the only movement I've ever given up on. I finally decided 35 cents per hour was just about what my services are worth so I bought a new one for $35.00. Maybe someday I will try again if I can't find a noose to fit my neck.😋
@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove That's a good question.
Hmm, I have a fake Rolex with a sbizz movement and within reason its well within any expectations.
Haven't even used for 30 years and it winds up and just runs and keeps pretty good time too. Only real gripe is that the keyless switching to date movement its really finicky about being in the right place to move the calendar, but the actual watch side is great.
Then my dad offloaded me the other x2 he acquired from somewhere like Russia at the time and it seems I already had the good one :D
The other 2....one had a bent hairspring so pretty useless. The other wasn't running well or consistently at all and probably like this badly lubricated although a totally different/older movement. I put myself in for a world of pain by getting x2 of these movements from aliexp as they were advertised as being submariner like movements.
Although they fit in the case, I have found the feet were also in the wrong place and different stems lol. and then managed to rookie mess up the keyless works so both new ones need TLC anyway. One of them, the date movement isn't even working properly and now got that in bits to try and relocate the stem properly.
I don't plan to really do anything with the watches (god forbid actually wearing them) but its cool to learn a little hobbyist about watches in general already learnt stuff I didn't know, and fixed 2-3 quartz movement watches but the automatics demand much more respect.
Now I know why most "common repairers" only do quartz - but IMO a "real" serious watch has to have some kind of manual or automatic movement and much kudos to these serious watch repairers like the video OP ^^^
@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove a widespread opinion is that they are generally vastly improved just by cleaning and proper reassembly with proper lubrication and regulation. the chinese assembly process seems to be quite variable across countless factories, so you see reports of dirt and hairs and scratches and over-oiling. i've also seen claims that some factories don't lubricate, because you're far more likely to have a movement returned from over-oiling than if you just don't bother. probably plenty of factories do good work, but afaik the odds are good that clean & lube will make a noticeable improvement. i have a bunch of cheap Tevise watches that i assume are DG2813 and they have run flawlessly for years. even the automatics that don't stay wound have surprised me by coming good after a few months' use. they all look very clean inside the case, too. all i have done is regulate by trial and error and easily got the error (often well) under 10 sec, so i'm not surprised they are ok watches when cleaned up. i watch these videos because obviously i'd like to pull one apart, but frankly there's no pressing need. if there's an odd man out, it's the GMT 3804, which seems to have suffered from the extra complexity. hard to regulate, doesn't keep consistent time, dodgy keyless works ... but it's my favorite (absolute cheapest explorer clone) and it's run 24/7 for a couple of years and never needs winding. and on its worst day it's probably -30 sec, which some people apparently think is acceptable. i daydream about swapping the movement out just for skits and giggles but the honest truth is that a better watch won't make a meaningful difference to my life. the fact is that a cheap chinese movement is a beautiful thing, and it's kind of a shame they're to cheap to fix
i know this is an old comment, but i gotta share this- my nephew ended up w a fake panerai somehow and i shit you not, there was a piece of rice jammed through the movement, u could see it thru the gallery back@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove
Alex i disassembled the movement after i first assembled it following your fantastic vid .and the amplitude was very low 150 ish and the watch on the the timagraph was all over the place .no good so i took it apart and cleaned the parts and dried them in isopropyl alcohol the reassembled it with new oil in my pots and what a difference 250 amplitude and with a bit of adjustment 0 ms beat error and 0 sec in 1 position a nice straight line on my timeragraph normally i've only seen that on swiss movements ETA and the like
Funny, I just watched Mr. Tosado assemble the DG 2813, but it didn't work when he was finished. I(I noticed he'd posted here too.) I'd had the same problem, I made many attempts to get the bridge for the five wheels. Impressive you made it look easy. I'm a beginner and I had to give up to save my sanity.
Well I’ve done it a few times.
It’s that damn spring in the middle. Try getting the train in first then the other two wheels . You can do it.
Excellent video! You are a watch lover in order to dedicate such an effort even for a not-so-expensive movement. I learnt a lot, and I will try to do the same with my CN watch. Thanks.
Wow! Look at the performance you got on the timegrapher from the Chinese movement!
Yes that bridge with all those pivots to align is a trial but cleaned and oiled the DG2813 can be a reliable no-frills movement.I was given a watch with this movement that kept stopping,after a clean and oil it is now working reliably.
I have a couple of these. Thanks to this video, I think I'll have a crack at one, it'll give me experience of a new movement and a break from the NH35. Many thanks!
Thank you. This is a very high quality video. I really enjoyed watching it.
Great work. Loved how you're careful and precise with the lubrication.
Thanks. This is a great explanation of using what oils where. Glad to see that I’m not the only one struggling with this particular movement. I’m still fighting with that bridge.
Appreciate your informative explanations. It really helped a novice like me in understanding watch movements.
Wow Alex I lucked out… I’m Don no this movement right now and the automatic drive wheel to the barrel was a mystery and I left it out🥴 now I know where the heck it goes!! Thanks for posting
Great video, thank you. Helpful, specific, clear. Just a word of true appreciation. Very impressed and grateful for what you do. Thanks!
Amazing performance on the Timegrapher... Job well done, for sure 👍👍🙂
Oh man thanks for this video. Bought one of these on Amazon for $20. This will be my second teardown and rebuild successfully in 4 nights lol. What a rewarding experience this was. The Seagul st36 I learned on was child's play in comparison to this mind bender. Gin and Tonic was the key for setting that bridge lol.
Great video, I was following along until the last spring for the date advancement shot out and got away from me. I've been searching my station and surrounding area for days now looking for it. Let this be a lesson to you, try work inside of something that has a limited brightly lit area. lol
Superb work! Thank you for lubricating scheme. btw: I installed the date jumper spring after the covering the movement with the last pate . There is an opening for them.
For an inexpensive movement that is an acceptable accuracy and amplitude.Good work.
Thanks man. Not really worth the effort but it’s definitely in better shape than it was.
Amazing, great to see it come alive at 18 mins :)
That’s always a good feeling isn’t it?
Hey Alex, I already subbed to your other channel, I thought this was you, when I saw the barrel and arbour video, honestly I've binged so much I recognised your rings lol
Anyway, I've subbed here too, absolutely wonderful content brother, thank you for sharing 👍
LOL that’s awesome.
Really superb video. Really useful for this movement. Much appreciated!
I know a lot of people feel movements like this or not worth servicing, but part of the fun is making them run better and longer than they were supposed to
By any chance do you know what mainspring size i need for this?
Seems to be a very popular movement. Mine was soaked in oil and didn't have much power. Maybe 12 hours.
Movement had no info. Really glad you made this video 😂🙌
Hi, i think multi purpose grease is the best for watch lubrication, just applying a film of it with a toothpick. Or if you dont want to disassemble the watch simply dissolving it in brake parts cleaner and apply it like oil, this will leave a thin film of grease between the parts. For cleaning parts i just put them into a plastic cup and swirl them in brake parts cleaner. For the mainspring i use silicongrease, mostly for corrosion protection.
Very good to watch… many thanks. Dave
cheers alex this might be a cheap movement but because of that fact and also the train bridge with the 5 pivots to line up i think it's a beautiful movement to learn on with life the only lesson learned the hard way are remembered everything that's easy is forgotten
One of the great things about these movements, and all Chinese movements in general is that there’s usually quite a bit of room for improvement in doing a proper service. One of the big complaints about Chinese made movements, especially when they’re in a watch is that they tend to only last a couple years before problems come up. This is due primarily to the lack of lubrication. That’s done by machine which tends to either be too much or too little both or bad.
Second time around watching this vid Alex. Good stuff!
That bridge get easier the more you do it.😃
Thank you .
I will try to assembly with your vuceo as guide.
I don´t think to be abel, but I will try.
( I hate automatic movements) 🥵
Thank you for this video. I am new to horology and have some cheap Rotaries and Accurists from the late 60s that just work.
When comparing those movements with a movement like the DG2813, what makes the chinise movement inferior? Quality of materials? Clumsy design? Other?
Thank you 😊
I’ve been able to get the bridge without it, but man, it was more luck than anything. I’ve had an idea on how to help install these Miyota-type bridges. I’m going to try to find some rod stock the right diameter, cut it to about 1” long, then thread it the same size as the train bridge screws, screw them in the three screw holes and use them as a sort of “track” to guide the bridge down without the lateral slip/slide I always get when I try to install it with tweezers. I’ll report back when I try it.
This is a great idea. I did this too when I assembled the bridge on ETA-262.471
Great video. Working on a similar movement right now from a different manufacturer, and yes that bridge is really a hassle 😅. The barrel arbor holding tool you're using, can you tell what size it is, I know it comes in different sizes?
Warning. Do not try this at home. The skill shown here is unreal. I have tried to fix two broken ones. Bent a bunch of gears. Lost springs. I quit.
Dixmont looks like it means something like ten mountain. I don’t know what I’d call a product meant for the Chinese market.
Fascinating that things like this movement even exist!
I can’t believe they can sell them for what they do.
Sei un grande!Non snobba questo movimento a differenza di altri orologiai cerchi di recuperarlo e sicuramente andrà benissimo,è come un meccanico che aggiusta solo Ferrari e non vuole vedere le vecchie 500 perché sono scadenti,pessima gente!!
Grazie amico mio. Amo l'orologeria e questi movimenti hanno il loro posto. Più persone hanno questi movimenti in un orologio rispetto a Rolex
@@watchrepairtutorials ciao se tu non vivessi negli USA ti manderei il mio😔
Fantastic job and explanation
Great job 👏. I had to replace the balance wheel on mine due to over winding the movement. These dont like being over wound. Best thing is about 10 winds and just wear it IMHO. I guess yhe movement if worn on a daily basis might with a bit of luck last a couple of years, maybe three. I noticed some of the pivots were loose in the jewels on reassembly. I got a replacement movement from Ali Express for about six USD and swapped out the balance wheel. Nice Job, I hope the watch works well 👍
Yeah, I don’t really care about the movement that much but they are fun to work on. I’m always up for a challenge.
*My brand new watch has this movement, the accuracy is +5 sec/day, i wander is that normal???*
Unbelievable skills!!!
Thanks for this. I’m super new to but on my it’s a a358 or something but very similar. Time and date only. No hack. But got to unwind the spring to remove the hand set. It’s on my holder but still ticking with dail attached
Good video! Can you tell me in what position to put the seat post of a 2813 GMT movement so that I can extract it and not have problems when replacing it? The seller says that the manufacturer recommends doing it in the calendar position and by doing that I have already destroyed 4 movements. Thank you
I totally used these to practice cleaning and servicing since a few of my watches came with this movement and I figured, "If I break it, I can get a new one for $20!" 😂
Hey man I really appreciate you making this video I had an issue with my quick date ...
Thats awesome. I hope it helped.
Alex you make it look so easy when i flipped the movement over to work on the keyless side the mainspring fell out .have i missed something i have followed the vid from the very beginning and im stumped ?
Well, the main spring is in the barrel, which is held by the bridge, so I’m guessing you forgot to put the Bridge on?
i would love, if you`d do a full disassembly of the 2813...i bought me some of those for noob- tinkering...
Wonder If you can help me out. I have a DG movement similar to the one in this video. There are two protrusions from the plate holding the center jewel. One at 5 o'clock which has one largish hole in it, and one at 7'o'clock which has two yellow dots. (shown at 18:19 minutes) Can you tell me which one is used to adjust the speed?
The arm coming off the balance that has the two yellow dots that you refer to is the regulator arm. If you move it towards the other arm, that’s situated right above the DG emblem at 18:19 that slows the rate down. If you move it in the opposite direction it speeds up the rate
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks so much!
Hi!!! congratulation for you fantastic job!
Is there any better movement to replace the GMT 3804? From a brand like sellita, seiko, miyota etc.
as a drop in replacement, basically no. [ _conceivably_ the new miyota gmt is a match, but you can't buy them yet and they will be *pricey* when you can.] At minimum you'd likely be replacing hands and maybe repositioning dial feet with most movements. i'm an optimistic person and inclined to believe that any movement can be made to work with enough shims and homebrew movement holders and dodgy stuff, but you're better off simply buying the cheapest watch with the movement you like, or just buying new 3804's until you get a good one
Nice. I’m taking apart some Chinese movements off Amazon. And man mine didn’t work out the box. So prolly need parts or oils
Thanks for the detailed video! Your camera work is really nice too :) any tips for installing date spring? ...is it better to do it before or after the coverplate?
The cover plate is the last thing that goes down. The spring is under it, right??
@@thewatchsmith2773 Yes indeed though there is an opening in the coverplate at the date spring .... I've seen some(probably not as experienced as you) that install the coverplate and then install the date spring through the opening in the coverplate.
Awesome video. I have an old 2813 lying around. I had pulled out the stem in time setting position and had to take apart the keyless works. Long story short, it flew off into space. My question is what can I use to replace it or can I just use it as a manual movement?
I would just replace it with another on for about 15 US from aliexpress
@@watchrepairtutorials thank you. 😆
Hey Alex,
How do you like to clean your oilers when switching between oils? I've seen some stick the oiler in a piece of rodico, some use foam, and others seem like they have a dedicated oiler for each oil type. What's your preferred? Also how often (and by what method) do you clean your oil pots?
Thanks!
I give you 10 likes for your detailed instructive video, you saved me a from a total loss of a watch with that same movement. I had no idea what this was until your video, and I needed it because mine stopped running (maybe over wound) so I opened it, took out the stem and it fit stuck in time set position. Well I tried to reposition the yoke then the damn spring came out. After your assembly I just hope it will run,
if not can I send it to you for lubrication? 😁
Great vid. Very detailed.
Awesome guide!
What if I tell you that this one has been the first movement I disassembled and assembled again successfully? I almost gave up thinking that watchmaking is a stupidly difficult profession only for tiny little dwarfs with superpowers like super fine vision and super steady hands. But later I did a A. Schild vintage movement and I realized that quality movements are a lot easier to manipulate that those chinese movements with cristal-like fragile pivots and bubblegum screws. And that 5 pivot bridge you said it takes 5 minutes to assemble, for me was around two and a half hours of pure pain.
Yes some Chinese movements are a pain for sure.
As I try to follow this reassembly I don’t understand what holds the barrel when you turn the movement over. The second pinion does stick due to the oil (just the existing one I haven’t tried clean and lubricating yet ) but the barrel just falls off. Is moving to skip that and go back to the keyless work later. But I am curious what makes it work for you.
Beautiful job!
I am a car mechanic, I suggest ATF. 😬Yesterday I used it for one of digital watch buttons, it was stuck.
Im new to servicing. Im quite the tinkerer, so i ordered a cheap Winner automatic to begin to get my feet wet. Do i need a specific variety of lubrications and if so, what do you recommend?
This may be a dumb question, but I’m in the struggle bus. How do I actually get the barrel open? I’ve tried pushing on the arbor from either side, trying to wedge it open, flexing it a little (this is just a practice movement, if it gets damaged in the learning process, it won’t break my heart). What am I missing?
Well shoot. Our movements have taken a huge divergence right after the third wheel goes in
Will a 8200 mainspring winder work on the 2813? Still tooling up for the hobby challenge.
Alex, I’m new to this hobby. I have the dg2813 disassembled. What is the free spinning cog that’s attached to the arbor/barrel lid. Should I be able to remove it from the lid/ arbor? I’ve watched this video over and over again. Initially the cog is not present then it shows up in the next scene. Please help.
Thank you very much for the video, please tell me what mechanism can replace this one, maybe some miyota, or something made of quartz movement?
they are very similar to miyota 8215. you'll have to research whether this is exactly correct or close enough. quartz tends to be quite different from mechanical movements in stem height and hand sizes so it's a difficult replacement. Tevise make some models (T801) that come in quartz and automatic, and it's _possible_ their quartz movement is a replacement for DG2813 but it's difficult to work out what movements are in chinese watches, especially for quartz. it's definitely easiest to buy more 2813 movements and hope you get a good one
Is there an advantage to have the movement running before taking out balance jewels for lubrication? Seems like it adds difficulty with the chaton bouncing around a little bit there.
Novice here- what mainspring winder size/model can I use when attempting to service this movement? Looking to purchase
Thanks love the video
I dont know the size of the barrel of the top of my head but you can measure the inside of the barrel. Thanks Justin
Great work! It looks like these DG2813 are gathering some traction as of late. I've seen more and more of them haha
Obviously you can’t expect much from them, but for what they are it’s amazing they can run as good as they do.
Ive had one running since 2017. Cleaned and lubricated in 2020 and still running. -4 seconds per day. Id like to see how long i can keep it running by service every 5 years lol
@@bolgerguide you did the work yourself or had a watch smith do it?
@@jonathanryder8820 i did it myself
ive found using mobius 8000 as a universal lubricant on these cheap movements works just fine
I already "broken" 4 dg2813 movement with input the stem , can you explain what's happening? Because I don't know what I've done wrong
¡¡ THE LID TOOK ME, HOURS & HOURS BUT I CAN'T!!! .
Are you talking about the bridge for the wheels ?
@@thewatchsmith2773
¡¡ YES !! I WILL TRY YOUR TECHNICALLY, ASSEMBLY ( I BOUGHT 3 FOR PRACTICE & NOT EASY TO PUTTING IT " LID " OR COVER"BOTH OF THEN DO NOT HAVE TRADITIONAL SWEEP SECOND " PIN' JUST A HOLE TO PRESS THE SECONDS HAND .
{ GOOD JOB !!! }
¡¡ GRAZIE, MOLTO PROFESSIONALE !!! .
RALPH 🙏.
I think lift angel is 50° for this movement. Thanks for your excellent videos.
Can you provide a source please ?
@@watchrepairtutorials Sorry I can't find it. I had read it a forum dealing with Chinese movements. Sorry if I bothered you.
@@COSTASV1969 oh, you didn’t bother me at all. I was just curious if you had a factory source. When I don’t have a factory sauce, I do my own test to determine which I did, but I could’ve made a mistake. It wouldn’t be the first time. If I’m off a couple degrees on the lift angle, that might put me about 10° off on the amplitude, but the rates would be the same.
hi, can you tell me the brand of blue grease you used? I can't understand it🤔
I didn’t see anything that resembles a click, how do you let down the power on this one? Also, mine winds spring with the stem pushed in and activates the date jumper when pulled out, but in neither position does it set the time. How do I see the time?
I want to practice assemble/disasemble on this movement before i start to work on the real thing eta2824. This will be my first time ever disasemble movement. Does this movement will be good one to start with. It is very cheap to buy.
Not really. The bridge is pretty hard to line up with all the wheels. If you are just starting out I would suggest the St36
Did you find the lubrication to be missing/minimal on the factory movement? I have heard that some of the Chinese movements do not get lubricated properly or at all.
Yes it was. It is safer for them than over lubrication so typically they are not lubricated at all.
So will we hear how well it performs a year later?
Great video, you have steady hands! I just reset the keyless works on a 2813 and lost the date spring :( .... tried making one out of a guitar spring and it worked for 15 minutes but no bananas ...... Got any idea how I could source another date spring?
That spring you are replacing is probably flat right? The method to make a flat spring requires holding the wire in 2 vices and then drawing 2 parallel files across it slowly tightening the files until you are at the desired thickness.
Short of doing that, check the supply houses for an assortment of springs. You might get lucky.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for the tips!
ebay sells reject movements for nearly nothing. often hard to work out what the actual movement is, but there would have to be a lot of 2813's
@@5naxalotl Thank-you, good to know!
Hi, what bounding agent you use for fixing the stem to the crown? Thanks
Loctite medium 242. The blue one
Does the oil on the ends tone work its way into the hole jewel, I didn't see you oil the hole jewel. Apparently the oil is drawn to the hole jewel through capillary action?
You are exactly right. It is drawn up into the chaton jewel which lubricates the pivot when the watch is horizontal
THANKS
If I have a new watch that uses the 2813, are there any spots on the movement I should oil that are accessible by simply removing the case back (and not disassembling the movement)?
Not recommended at all, 1/2 dozen reasons. If you want to screw up a watch do this.
If the rotor is noisy, would it be safe to apply a couple of small drops of 9010 to the bearings? Thank you.
@@billm8584 Sure that should be fine.
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it!
According to the timegrapher agter service this movement the results on the timegrapher are great. Although uou claim that the design is not great. The issue is the quality of matirial the parts are made. So what was your impression? What need to be done in order that the main plate and bridges will be polish?
Thanks Boss 🫡
Would this be the same as a Tongji standard Chinese movement?
Big fan thanks 😊
Thanks brother.
thanks. you a great help to me i.e. oils. those Chinese ( cheapos ) impossible
Do pros service faux watches like a Rolet with a 3285 gmt?
Chinese Ones Great for Practise...Nice and Cheap...
do you work on viewers watches
Do you know what site the owner got it from
Wich oil do you use for the palet fork jewels,9010 ?
The pallet stones get 9415 and the pallet pivots get nothing
ÓTIMO SERVIÇO 👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 🇧🇷
Amazing
I have trouble getting toast out of toaster 🥺
🤣
Believe me, you have to have very steady hands while doing this. I tried it once and my fat fingers ruined the balance wheel.
Good .
Bello e preciso
i like how ypu didnt include the movement into the view while on the timegrapher. neither would i lol
Cool beans
That 5 pivot bridge is a ridiculous design.
They are truly a pain in the ass.
HI'
I THING MAYBE HAVE A THINNING PLASTIC AS A GUIDE TO ALING AT ONCE THE PIVOT
AT ( PRODUCTION 🏭 FACTORY)THEN PUT THE LID & SLIDE AND 🪛 SCREW DOWN.
5 pivots in one bridge is a test of patience, but after a little experience its easy; if you carefully pull back the click and then set the winding/reversing wheel. I hold back the click while dropping the plate onto the pivots AND while manipulating the wheels. Other methods is manipulating the click with the stem or actually lifting the click spring over the click...pain in the ass but doable.
I’m glad I’m not the only one who noticed that. I bought one to practice on and I’m thinking it was a mistake lol
My quick date adjuster don't work, I have to adjust day by day...
Can you just buy another movement and replace it?
Sure of course it what’s the fun in that.
how much would you charge me to service about 3 of my 60$ movement's [similar to this one] that are in my homage watches?
My standard pricing is on the website. TheWatchSmjth.org