I'm pushing 60 in a year or so, and there was no such thing as assembly lube back in my day, I assembled with gear oil, and sparingly at that. Ahhh, the days of building minibike donks under a 45w globe that was swinging in the wind. You blokes take my memories back to a different era, but the enjoyment is all the same...
I never had a minibike or a gokart. For me it was a '66 Datsun pickup. I still have a black line in my knuckle were a gash, from a slipped wrench, got filled with grease and never washed properly. The wound eventually healed and it's not a grease tattoo
@@patrickfreeman8257 I take it you know the feeling of the swinging globe though, lead light under the bonnet was always a challenge too, I can still hear my Dad doing his chew at me for "holding the bleed'n light wrong".
Detroit assembly lube, commonly called peanut butter, has been around for nearly 90 years. And is still arguably one of the best thread and bearing lubes ever made. CMD extreme pressure lube has been on the market for over 60 years. They have made many types of assembly lube, for years...............
I love it, being a small engine kid at a whopping 14 years old I really cannot wait to do things that you guys do when I’m older. As always, thanks for the inspiration. My small engine career.
You should "BLUE" the frame. Or black oxide. If you blue the frame you can call it "The Shotgun". Maybe do a bunch of bullet stuff to it. Valve caps, handgrips, revolver style clutch, gas cap, etc.
I loved it, I’ve been a fan since you were in your dad’s garage and the C10 was just a future fantasy. I love everything you guys do. I’d love to see y’all build a 4wd off-road kart with front and rear motors that looks a lot more cool than the old 4 motor go cart. Much love guys
charles woulda loved this, gonna miss him; hope he aint gone for good, and can return for some videos in the future, and wish the best for him. long beds an mini bikes!
Dejavu. I thought I watched John build that engine already. Impressed with the way he's adapted to mechanical stuff from being the business man. John's a good fit with Ike. Our dynamic duo is missing their D'Artagnan, in Charles, but it's great to see them soldiering on.
Don't wanna give up low end power for high end? How 'bout two carbs? One small carb and a larger on on a progressive linkage? Might make a fun (but possibly frustrating) project for the future. Two small carbs should do the trick, if one opens before the other. Figure it out so the rest of us don't have to lol ❤
This Old Man from Washington NC always enjoying your videos 👍. 3 am with my coffee ☕. Still saying y'all are one of the best channels on UA-cam ❤️. Looking forward to to the next. 🛵🧔💝💝
Ike is absolutely right. Use the assembly lube, and change the oil after first heat-up of the motor. The assembly lube will break down and mix with the motor oil very quickly as the heat lowers the viscosity of the lube.
I like to use engine oil for the small tilton when I'm doing a custom build or sometimes I use the assembly lube they both have their drawbacks but whatever works use it😊
While I LOVE what you’re doing with the lightweight chassis, PLEASE tell me what and when you are going to do something with the Opel GT?!?!?!…hence Cars and Cameras!! I love the Opel GT!!
You can use those type of Wood nut insert things like youre using them, you'd have to pop a cpl staples and install them on the INSIDE of the seat under the foam & re-staple or they'll just fall out that way you showed in the video
It's nice to see how far you guys came especially when it comes to your shop I wish I had a shop to start with I have a few projects that need to get done but sometimes it takes help instead of being kicked when you are down
On certain engines I like to use assembly lube. But I especially like to use Lucas stabilizer on bearings. Like this I'd rub a drop into the bearing surfaces. Then apply a couple drops of engine oil on the bearing, especially on cam lobes if I don't have the special stuff supplied with new cams. The thick and tacky stuff in the metal kinda sealing the journal and bearing surfaces. Then a thin oil as the lubrication. On cylinders I rub in Lucas, then oil on the rings. And oil pumps I like to fill with Lucas. Because it instantly has oil pressure soon as the pump turns Even though the Lucas runs out, it is still on the surfaces. And instantly makes pressure even years later! And Lucas seems to stick on metal longer than oil to protect the metal from rust! ✌️
It's really cool to have watched you guys as long as I have when you started you didn't have much to work with but yet you made it work and now you have a full shop all your tools and you're still coming up with amazing videos every week I really enjoy you guys
Assembly lube liquifies with heat, just like grease etc. then blends with the oil so it can be drained after break in, if you’re worried about thickness or globs use comp cams cam lube, it’s thinner but sticky enough to help on that first dry start , the piston pin being raised and fewer rings used because the rod length was increased, so in order to keep the same piston height and crank clearance something has to change. Same as using a long rod on a stroker V8 build , piston ends up being shorter wrist pin is a lot higher into the ring land areas needing smaller ( thinner) or less rings
This fear is from soap based white lithium assembly lubes which are garbage to use in a performance engine. Proper assembly lubes do melt and blend with any oil.
@@briansantefort I’ve never seen white lithium used as assembly lubricant before, but then again I tend to research things before I do them to find out what and why it’s used as well
What I use for assembly and first run/break in really depends on the application, 2 stroke assembly would be quite a bit different than 4 stroke for assembly lubes but usually go by what's commonly recommended in service manuals. May forget a few things but generally I'll use assembly lube for valvetrain (minus cam lobes/carriers), (some)Needle Bearings/wristpins. Use either motor or 2t oil for cylinder bore, rings, cam/crank journals or bearing/carriers (also pushrods when applicable). Seals, O-rings, ball-bearings, (some) needle bearings I use high temp silicone grease or either motor, trans, or 2cycle oil depending on the type of and purpose of the seal/bearing.
John I can tell you've learned a lot and I want to express how much throughout the years that I've been watching you from the very beginning at your parents house tearing up the yard and them giving you a bunch of crap about that you have excelled and you're actually surprising me with your interest in creating an engine properly assembled to perform to optimum capacity!
assembly lube vs engine oil doesn't really matter for these; the lube will protect the bearing until it dissolves in the oil naturally coming to it. In a pressurized bearing assembly lube is necessary if you let it sit any after assembly.
You guys should run a little 2 stroke oil in the fuel to keep the rings lubed, the meth washes the oil off pretty good. A 200 to 1 mix makes a big difference
If you have a stroked crank I'm pretty sure you would have to move the wrist pin up in the piston . There for the short piston top with just enough room for the compression ring and the oiling rings.
I never use assembly lube on these engines I use the oil that you run to lube the assembly. I have filled the crankcase full of oil before and turned it over by hand and let it sit for a couple days then drain it back out and then refill to correct level if I was concerned about oiling at start up. It will lube everything quite well.
The foreshadowing and the little sneak peek has me really nervous about next week’s video but I’m still a little excited and hopeful that it is not catastrophic! 😬
I use assembly lube to help hold the lifters up in place, on the cam lobes, and on the pushrod tips. That's it. The rod bearings, crank bearings, etc. get engine oil.
Guys I used to race go carts back in the day and I made a oil mix of my own to run in my menthol engines use seven quarts of your choice of oil and add one quart of dura lube that should help remedy the milkshake if it doesn’t you got way to much ring gap.
Assembly lube isnt going to "clog" the dipper hole. Its making a bunch of pressure with that dipper and on top of that as soon as there is any temperature in the motor its melting anyway.
I wanna see you take this bike to the Hood where the Top Mini Bike no prep drags are held, and run it against true street Mini Bikes . Down South they run good EDIT: 35:15 oh yeah !
If you're going to leave the frame bare, you should coat it with some sharkhide, you can rub it on so no need for sprayers, etc, thats unless you want to spray it. I use it all the time, especially on rollbars. You're not putting heavy coats of paint on it, its just a thin glaze. You can protect all kinds of raw metals with it.
You want a very light coat of a high ZDDP oil. You can use high zddp oil if you want for a very short break in, but after that you want a regular oil, as zddp increases friction loses. Even with that oil on assembly you do not want to soak the parts or dip them. The only reason to use assembly lube is for engines that are not getting run shortly after assembly. If it’s going to sit a month or more assembly lube will do better at staying between the surfaces.
Y'all aligning yourselves with Pauls karts was the best business move y'all ever made. His stuff makes big power. He is basically applying a race car program to these small engines. He used to make fun of people like us struggling with how to improve performance on these small engines until he convinced us to do it like a real 1:1 race car program
I assemble every engine I build with the kart racing oil that I plan on using because most kart racing oils don't mix only permatex assembly lube on the rod and wrist pin
I always make sure I don't eat at least 12 hours before a race but I do drink a strong cup of coffee morning of and take a dump and I figure I save a good 5lbs
I wish I had documented my engine build… Briggs and Stratton 212 with a predator 212 stage 2, 2-1 ratio rockers, long throw crank, short connecting rod cupped piston dual bearing billet side cover and a torque converter.. not sure though if it will run and how it will preform
Guys i hate to whinge but this video is almost identical to a dozen previous videos and very similar to dozens of other videos is this CC new direction? I hope I'm the only one disappointed this ain't for me, having said that I was dam proud when you got 2 world records on these types of builds, but I'll admit maybe I don't like change the best thing ever on the channel was watching John go from a Chubby school boy into a male model that's unrepeatable wish you guys all the best as you didn't start UA-cam for me, you have to do you and I respect that
Tbh it’s very repetitive. Charles was terrible and awkward. Attention seeker. The builds suck. Same shit different smell scenario. It seems they have figured out they can get by with little to no effort and views. I only watched because of their crazy builds but now I watch grind hard plumbing instead since they actually know what they are talking about 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The short piston is where your power is coming from seems a copy from Honda CRF modern engines They also have the pancake piston as i call give extremely Rpms on a 4 stroke. back in the 70s in my MX days I would cut my piston shirts on my dads lathe and my bike was always a bit faster than my buddys.
Torque Test Channel recently put out a video on different torque wrench variables like extensions, oil/no oil, etc. Oiling threads drastically changes the amount of torque being applied to them, Ike says hes torquing to 25 but that real value is probably 2-3 times higher.
I make my own assembly lube. Just buy some really thick graphite grease and mix freely with your engine run-in oil of choice. That way you can get any viscosity that you want and you know it will blend nicely with the run-in oil. Edit: Oh and a bit of graphite grease mixed with a little chainsaw oil makes a very nice torque lubricant for headbolts, studs and stuff like that. Also smells real nice.
Ive been watching y'all since 2007. Im so glad y'all are doing ok in 2024. Im nearly 55 years old and not doing so good, about to lose my home and everything ive ever owned in now less than 30 days. I haven't given up yet but the pressure is almost more than this old ticker can take. I may die in the next 3jsh weeks or i may survive. If i live thru this i hope y'all will pray for me.
I used to rebuild seadoo jetski engines, i tried both engine oil and assembly lube. No difference ever nkticed, i tend to only use assembly lube if the engine isnt going to be started straight away.
What I've been told by engine builders is, don't use assembly lube, use the oil that you intend to run. Assembly lube to them never comes off and so it adds a thick film so the oil doesn't get to that area where it needs to. I've never tried myself so I don't have much of an opinion, but I do take their experiences to heart too.
John, I know were three Opels are. They are sitting beside a barn in the middle of nowhere East Tennessee. I know the dude that has them 20 years ago they were supposed to be a project but they've never moved. I'm only a couple hours away from you all. I've always wanted those cars I would guess he would let them go now especially to someone that was trying to put some together.
Normaly you put those bolt fittings in inside of that seat and after that you put kover on are it any fapric or leathers, ( you can put those in that way also but if someone crash and seat get a hit its can tear those fittings out of that wood.
You guys really need one of those pneumatic rotary carbide deburing tools. It's like a mini air powered router that has a small carbide bit. They're really inexpensive for how absolutely phenomenal they work.
I'm pushing 60 in a year or so, and there was no such thing as assembly lube back in my day, I assembled with gear oil, and sparingly at that.
Ahhh, the days of building minibike donks under a 45w globe that was swinging in the wind. You blokes take my memories back to a different era, but the enjoyment is all the same...
I never had a minibike or a gokart. For me it was a '66 Datsun pickup. I still have a black line in my knuckle were a gash, from a slipped wrench, got filled with grease and never washed properly. The wound eventually healed and it's not a grease tattoo
@@patrickfreeman8257 I take it you know the feeling of the swinging globe though, lead light under the bonnet was always a challenge too, I can still hear my Dad doing his chew at me for "holding the bleed'n light wrong".
I bet that was a stinker
Detroit assembly lube, commonly called peanut butter, has been around for nearly 90 years. And is still arguably one of the best thread and bearing lubes ever made.
CMD extreme pressure lube has been on the market for over 60 years.
They have made many types of assembly lube, for years...............
Next weeks video will be action packed!! What’d y’all think of the teaser?
I love it, being a small engine kid at a whopping 14 years old I really cannot wait to do things that you guys do when I’m older. As always, thanks for the inspiration. My small engine career.
You should "BLUE" the frame. Or black oxide. If you blue the frame you can call it "The Shotgun". Maybe do a bunch of bullet stuff to it. Valve caps, handgrips, revolver style clutch, gas cap, etc.
I loved it, I’ve been a fan since you were in your dad’s garage and the C10 was just a future fantasy. I love everything you guys do. I’d love to see y’all build a 4wd off-road kart with front and rear motors that looks a lot more cool than the old 4 motor go cart. Much love guys
Where's Charles
Boring...
Nice hexagons on that frame! GHPC approves.
Kinda helps to distract from the booger welds… Come on man!
@@bradgrunwald4059 Yeah rough. The boys say they sand the frames before a build and I can see why.
I thought the same thing
loll
3:00 Yes, every half-ounce counts. That's why I always roll commando when I'm racing. Gives me that cometitive edge.
charles woulda loved this, gonna miss him; hope he aint gone for good, and can return for some videos in the future, and wish the best for him. long beds an mini bikes!
What happened? I missed it
@@Fungusamnguss He moved his growing family closer to the grandparents. Left on great terms but for important reasons.
John, I always use STP for assembly's because it does not clog and it should be used in the engine anyway. Dave Bronson
Dejavu. I thought I watched John build that engine already. Impressed with the way he's adapted to mechanical stuff from being the business man. John's a good fit with Ike. Our dynamic duo is missing their D'Artagnan, in Charles, but it's great to see them soldiering on.
We do need Charles around. I miss him.
Don't wanna give up low end power for high end? How 'bout two carbs? One small carb and a larger on on a progressive linkage? Might make a fun (but possibly frustrating) project for the future. Two small carbs should do the trick, if one opens before the other. Figure it out so the rest of us don't have to lol ❤
This Old Man from Washington NC always enjoying your videos 👍. 3 am with my coffee ☕. Still saying y'all are one of the best channels on UA-cam ❤️. Looking forward to to the next. 🛵🧔💝💝
I think you'd be surprised how much pressure the dipper slapping the oil will make.
Everything is a hammer. Unless its a screwdriver. Then its a pry bar.
The Bearded Mechanic
hey this stuff is great, but i'd rly like to see some more gocart content, (like track stuff)!
Something helpful is make a cut away side cover so you can visually look at the movement when you get everything located
Ike is absolutely right.
Use the assembly lube, and change the oil after first heat-up of the motor. The assembly lube will break down and mix with the motor oil very quickly as the heat lowers the viscosity of the lube.
I like to use engine oil for the small tilton when I'm doing a custom build or sometimes I use the assembly lube they both have their drawbacks but whatever works use it😊
While I LOVE what you’re doing with the lightweight chassis, PLEASE tell me what and when you are going to do something with the Opel GT?!?!?!…hence Cars and Cameras!! I love the Opel GT!!
They posted something about it on their Pay channel,and we don't get it.
You can use those type of Wood nut insert things like youre using them, you'd have to pop a cpl staples and install them on the INSIDE of the seat under the foam & re-staple or they'll just fall out that way you showed in the video
It's nice to see how far you guys came especially when it comes to your shop I wish I had a shop to start with I have a few projects that need to get done but sometimes it takes help instead of being kicked when you are down
So glad to see you put the rear pegs on this bike. They both look so awesome too. 👍👍
On certain engines I like to use assembly lube. But I especially like to use Lucas stabilizer on bearings. Like this I'd rub a drop into the bearing surfaces. Then apply a couple drops of engine oil on the bearing, especially on cam lobes if I don't have the special stuff supplied with new cams. The thick and tacky stuff in the metal kinda sealing the journal and bearing surfaces. Then a thin oil as the lubrication. On cylinders I rub in Lucas, then oil on the rings. And oil pumps I like to fill with Lucas. Because it instantly has oil pressure soon as the pump turns Even though the Lucas runs out, it is still on the surfaces. And instantly makes pressure even years later! And Lucas seems to stick on metal longer than oil to protect the metal from rust! ✌️
It's really cool to have watched you guys as long as I have when you started you didn't have much to work with but yet you made it work and now you have a full shop all your tools and you're still coming up with amazing videos every week I really enjoy you guys
Assembly lube liquifies with heat, just like grease etc. then blends with the oil so it can be drained after break in, if you’re worried about thickness or globs use comp cams cam lube, it’s thinner but sticky enough to help on that first dry start , the piston pin being raised and fewer rings used because the rod length was increased, so in order to keep the same piston height and crank clearance something has to change. Same as using a long rod on a stroker V8 build , piston ends up being shorter wrist pin is a lot higher into the ring land areas needing smaller ( thinner) or less rings
This fear is from soap based white lithium assembly lubes which are garbage to use in a performance engine. Proper assembly lubes do melt and blend with any oil.
@@briansantefort I’ve never seen white lithium used as assembly lubricant before, but then again I tend to research things before I do them to find out what and why it’s used as well
@@ni_wink84 lubriplate 105 and lubrimatic
@@ni_wink84it's god awful. John Deere still uses it. It plugs oil passages. And if it dries up...Look out.
What I use for assembly and first run/break in really depends on the application, 2 stroke assembly would be quite a bit different than 4 stroke for assembly lubes but usually go by what's commonly recommended in service manuals.
May forget a few things but generally I'll use assembly lube for valvetrain (minus cam lobes/carriers), (some)Needle Bearings/wristpins.
Use either motor or 2t oil for cylinder bore, rings, cam/crank journals or bearing/carriers (also pushrods when applicable).
Seals, O-rings, ball-bearings, (some) needle bearings I use high temp silicone grease or either motor, trans, or 2cycle oil depending on the type of and purpose of the seal/bearing.
John I can tell you've learned a lot and I want to express how much throughout the years that I've been watching you from the very beginning at your parents house tearing up the yard and them giving you a bunch of crap about that you have excelled and you're actually surprising me with your interest in creating an engine properly assembled to perform to optimum capacity!
If you're worried about paint weighing too much, be sure to take a fat dump before each test ride.
Nah but seriously, love your guys' content.
I use maxima it smells like red hots it’s very very easy to use and works perfectly for my uses. I highly recommend.
It smells like cinnamon
I used Lucas oil stabilizer. Just a nice thick oil that thins out with the heat of it running
assembly lube vs engine oil doesn't really matter for these; the lube will protect the bearing until it dissolves in the oil naturally coming to it. In a pressurized bearing assembly lube is necessary if you let it sit any after assembly.
Should use a Acorn nut on the Tank Bolts
You guys should run a little 2 stroke oil in the fuel to keep the rings lubed, the meth washes the oil off pretty good. A 200 to 1 mix makes a big difference
Petition to get Charles back 👇
I
I love when y’all build engines
If you have a stroked crank I'm pretty sure you would have to move the wrist pin up in the piston . There for the short piston top with just enough room for the compression ring and the oiling rings.
I never use assembly lube on these engines I use the oil that you run to lube the assembly. I have filled the crankcase full of oil before and turned it over by hand and let it sit for a couple days then drain it back out and then refill to correct level if I was concerned about oiling at start up. It will lube everything quite well.
The foreshadowing and the little sneak peek has me really nervous about next week’s video but I’m still a little excited and hopeful that it is not catastrophic! 😬
Lite weight = FAST!!! Full speed ahead 😊
I bet I could really mow some grass with that
I use assembly lube to help hold the lifters up in place, on the cam lobes, and on the pushrod tips. That's it. The rod bearings, crank bearings, etc. get engine oil.
Nicely done boys!
I use castor oil for assembly lube. Works better than anything else out there
I remember a outboard in the 60/80 s. When getting older centrifugal force/bearing clearance made the rod go wider thus smashing the cranckcase.
Guys I used to race go carts back in the day and I made a oil mix of my own to run in my menthol engines use seven quarts of your choice of oil and add one quart of dura lube that should help remedy the milkshake if it doesn’t you got way to much ring gap.
Assembly lube isnt going to "clog" the dipper hole. Its making a bunch of pressure with that dipper and on top of that as soon as there is any temperature in the motor its melting anyway.
I've personally seen it wipe a set of bearings when someone went crazy with it. I use the oil the engine is going to run with.
ThI thing about assembly lube is soon as it gets warm it thins out so it won’t clog oil passages so it’ll be fine. 🤙🏻
I wanna see you take this bike to the Hood where the Top Mini Bike no prep drags are held, and run it against true street Mini Bikes . Down South they run good EDIT: 35:15 oh yeah !
Yeah, them guys rip! Also some of the best trash talk you’ll find anywhere 😂
If you're going to leave the frame bare, you should coat it with some sharkhide, you can rub it on so no need for sprayers, etc, thats unless you want to spray it. I use it all the time, especially on rollbars. You're not putting heavy coats of paint on it, its just a thin glaze.
You can protect all kinds of raw metals with it.
You want a very light coat of a high ZDDP oil. You can use high zddp oil if you want for a very short break in, but after that you want a regular oil, as zddp increases friction loses. Even with that oil on assembly you do not want to soak the parts or dip them. The only reason to use assembly lube is for engines that are not getting run shortly after assembly. If it’s going to sit a month or more assembly lube will do better at staying between the surfaces.
Do you know what I use bar and chain for chainsaw? It’s not grease but it’s not oil and it takes a very light film. Think about it.
Y'all aligning yourselves with Pauls karts was the best business move y'all ever made. His stuff makes big power. He is basically applying a race car program to these small engines. He used to make fun of people like us struggling with how to improve performance on these small engines until he convinced us to do it like a real 1:1 race car program
Paul's karts build some badass pieces for sure
Paul Crafton, definitely NOT Paul's Karts lol
@@WyFoster I realized this after I finished the video but like I said I still prefer Paul's karts over gps
Paul karts is a scammer and sells junk
@@BenkosmeBuildz You said it not me
I normally use 10w 40 mineral based break in oil when I build an engine for the first time and I have never had any problems at all
I assemble every engine I build with the kart racing oil that I plan on using because most kart racing oils don't mix only permatex assembly lube on the rod and wrist pin
When using those steel hub flywheels hit em with an impact to set em on the taper then torque it
put a key in the crank side slide on a socket that fits hold with a breaker bar and torque to your hearts concent
That last racing scene with the semi truck/trailer on the right hand side. Someone is going to die
I always make sure I don't eat at least 12 hours before a race but I do drink a strong cup of coffee morning of and take a dump and I figure I save a good 5lbs
I wish I had documented my engine build… Briggs and Stratton 212 with a predator 212 stage 2, 2-1 ratio rockers, long throw crank, short connecting rod cupped piston dual bearing billet side cover and a torque converter.. not sure though if it will run and how it will preform
9:25 Heavyweight nondetergent engine oil with a zinc additive for assembly since you have solid lifters and an aggressive cam profile.
Guys i hate to whinge but this video is almost identical to a dozen previous videos and very similar to dozens of other videos is this CC new direction? I hope I'm the only one disappointed this ain't for me, having said that I was dam proud when you got 2 world records on these types of builds, but I'll admit maybe I don't like change the best thing ever on the channel was watching John go from a Chubby school boy into a male model that's unrepeatable wish you guys all the best as you didn't start UA-cam for me, you have to do you and I respect that
Tbh it’s very repetitive. Charles was terrible and awkward. Attention seeker. The builds suck. Same shit different smell scenario. It seems they have figured out they can get by with little to no effort and views.
I only watched because of their crazy builds but now I watch grind hard plumbing instead since they actually know what they are talking about 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Let’s take a minute to appreciate Scott’s moustache. 😂
Great build and great vidya fellas! See you on the next one!
Thanks buddy! I worked hard to achieve it!
Was gonna say lol. Looks like if alexis mincolla from 3teeth grew up in the midwest
@@PsychoticAnarchist69hell yeah dude!
HA! "we might lose the shop" !! Angelo would be proud!
Tony Angelo
They're going to lose the seat with those styles of captive nuts they're using, and the fasteners take torque Lube not assembly Lube..
@@Hndle-RapselHonda When in reality there is zero problem with either the nuts or the lube. Hand flapping at its finest.
Lucas Oil stabilizer is the perfect assembly lube for anything
The short piston is where your power is coming from seems a copy from Honda CRF modern engines They also have the pancake piston as i call give extremely Rpms on a 4 stroke. back in the 70s in my MX days I would cut my piston shirts on my dads lathe and my bike was always a bit faster than my buddys.
How have you not invested in a digital torque wrench? Great content guys keep making cool rigs!
Torque Test Channel recently put out a video on different torque wrench variables like extensions, oil/no oil, etc. Oiling threads drastically changes the amount of torque being applied to them, Ike says hes torquing to 25 but that real value is probably 2-3 times higher.
I personally use STP oil Treatment for my assembly's.
I make my own assembly lube. Just buy some really thick graphite grease and mix freely with your engine run-in oil of choice. That way you can get any viscosity that you want and you know it will blend nicely with the run-in oil.
Edit: Oh and a bit of graphite grease mixed with a little chainsaw oil makes a very nice torque lubricant for headbolts, studs and stuff like that. Also smells real nice.
The bikes looking great guys!😊😊
The amount of Fast and Furious references 🤣
Sweet. Looking forward to seeing this thing haul.
Ive been watching y'all since 2007. Im so glad y'all are doing ok in 2024. Im nearly 55 years old and not doing so good, about to lose my home and everything ive ever owned in now less than 30 days. I haven't given up yet but the pressure is almost more than this old ticker can take. I may die in the next 3jsh weeks or i may survive. If i live thru this i hope y'all will pray for me.
Sorry to hear. Contrary to what a lot of politicians claim, times are tough. Prayers that things improve for you. God bless😢😢😢
2 ring pistons are mainly about less friction. Grinding on rod dipper might be about friction also
I don't think it's a bad thing to use assembly lube. Cause once it gets hot. It basically turns into oil anyway.
Flathead engine on that Frame would be sick !
Hey Go Power Sports, we're going to need a source for dual carb manifolds. Now's the time for R&R.
Ahh man I can’t wait till next epi 🔥🔥🔥
personally I like making a small cup of slick 50 and motor oil for assembly lube it's very sticky so it stays put !
Ethan would approve the hexagons on the chassis 👌premium lol
LOL... I was thinking the same thing when I saw them.
18:55 what you don’t want is the silicone to go in the cylinder you don’t want silicone on the fire ring at all.
yes i was waiting all day for a vid
I use Lucas Oil Stabilizer for engine assembly
CarsandCameras, You're the best! I just had to subscribe!
Your new camera is way better! Production value is much higher on this video.
We call that using your calibrated elbow for that style of torque measuring
Assembly lube should melt away with heat and mix with the oil. Also something seems like it's balanced correctly
I only use assembly lube for lifters push rods and cam bearings use oil for the rest
Now you need to do a dirt drag build once this is wrapped up. 🤣
I Hope one day you guys build a pimped out build like those Cali boys you met at GPS id come back and watch that
Thank goodness Ike said the nuts go in the wooden seat the other way. I was screaming at my phone. Lol
Love what you do. Where has Charles been. Hope all is good with everyone. Stay safe have fun
I want to say he left seems I seen a farewell video listed.
Charles wanted to spend more time with his family as he has a young son growing up. He is still around occasionally.
I used to rebuild seadoo jetski engines, i tried both engine oil and assembly lube. No difference ever nkticed, i tend to only use assembly lube if the engine isnt going to be started straight away.
What I've been told by engine builders is, don't use assembly lube, use the oil that you intend to run. Assembly lube to them never comes off and so it adds a thick film so the oil doesn't get to that area where it needs to. I've never tried myself so I don't have much of an opinion, but I do take their experiences to heart too.
John, I know were three Opels are. They are sitting beside a barn in the middle of nowhere East Tennessee. I know the dude that has them 20 years ago they were supposed to be a project but they've never moved. I'm only a couple hours away from you all. I've always wanted those cars I would guess he would let them go now especially to someone that was trying to put some together.
Normaly you put those bolt fittings in inside of that seat and after that you put kover on are it any fapric or leathers, ( you can put those in that way also but if someone crash and seat get a hit its can tear those fittings out of that wood.
Ike FYI if you would put the bushings in the freezer they would go in a lot easier.
Another awesome video Whoop!
T nuts will not work in that situation as the part that holds the pressure is supposed to be on the other side of the plywood
Yawl have come so far. Proud fan up in here. Let's go. I have no doubt you can hit that goal guys. Fire it up!
You guys really need one of those pneumatic rotary carbide deburing tools. It's like a mini air powered router that has a small carbide bit. They're really inexpensive for how absolutely phenomenal they work.
1/8" pencil grinder
😮 Pedro? I voted for you 🎉
Add short threaded tube to oil drain so will not drain all over motor?