I've used a similar technique on Gundam models as a way to do the panel-lining. I just used straight enamel paint that was heavily thinned and ran it into the recesses/panel lines. Some stuff I learned from that experience: - You have to wait for the acrylic gloss coat to dry and harden 100%. And not just dry to the touch. Like give it a couple hours or a day or two, otherwise the friction of scrubbing will rub it off. - The smoother your gloss coat, the less staining you get. - Don't use Testor's Thinner. It's smelly and the formulation will soften the acrylic underneath. I used a tiny amount of lighter fluid in an extremely well-ventilated room. - You can use make-up removal swabs instead of normal cotton swabs. They hold up more to pressure and are less likely to leave fibers behind. - You need to be supremely careful around shallow detail when using the swabs. - If you screw up and remove too much (and you likely will on some pieces), clean it up as best you can and wait for everything to dry before reapplying the panel line wash.
I've been using this since I saw your imperial knight video and its an awesome technique. THANK YOU! Some extra advice to viewers, ensure your room / spray booth is well ventilated. This stinks! Also if you want a really dirty look remove the wash lightly and you can get some really good effects.
Thanks so much, first saw this on your dark elder, wanted to try it but thought I’d mess it up lol, thanks for the guide. I will finally give it ago it’s this new knowledge. Keep up the great work.
I've done this for two years now, but never realised I can airbrush this! Earlier I could paint 30 Flames of War tanks in 3 evening, airbrushing I think I could do in 2.
Wow! That's awesome. Another something from the Doc's Hoard of Shame got slapped with paint and is good for gaming. I think that I might start into painting vehicles just for display from this.
Buy a yard of 180 mesh screen print cloth. Filter any paint you think may clog your airbrush through it by cutting off a piece about 5" square and putting it in a funnel. I just did that with hundreds of paints that are almost 20 years old. It was tedious and time-consuming but it saved me a ton of money because the other option was to throw it all out and buy all new paints. What isn't an option is putting paint in my airbrush that's going to clog it. I REALLY don't want to be taking my airbrush apart to unclog it in the middle of painting. Anyway, a yard of cloth is around ten bucks and is totally worth it. 180 works for enamels and acrylics. With acrylics you an just wash it. For enamels I just wiped it off between colors and did my colors in an order that a getting a small bit of the previous color wouldn't affect it noticeably.
That SW: Legion AT-ST looks to be the same size as old mpc "Chicken Walker" kit, only much, much more accurate. So, your technique is like a sludge wash but done with an airbrush, interesting.
Great info. I Do u need to varnish your acrylic first if ur using the enamel wash or streaking grime with a brush for streaking effects? Not sure if the enamel would react with unvarnished acrylic paint.
It's not necessary to varnish in that case. Acrylic paint and the streaking grimes or oderless thinner won't react and it's relatively safe when using them in small concentrated areas.
@@ThePaintingClinic thanks for the info I was always confused on that do haven't gotten any yet. So just varnish if ur going to do oil washes or enamel washes all over. If for small weathering u dont have to. Thanks again.
The "punched contrasty" style you get by sinking washes into the recesses is of course very much _de rigueur_ these days. You do however get that "modelly" look (cf. your report on the exhibit in a recent video). Paul Budzik is an advocate of not applying more wash than warranted by the real-world griminess of the subject, and instead create natural shadowing by creating parts separation. On the Budzik approach, the models look much more realistic under the right lighting, although probably too flat under everyday lighting (because, you know, we are talking about _scale_ models). To each his own, of course, but you might find it useful to experiment in the Budzik direction, so you can eventually apply both techniques as appropriate.
I've used a similar technique on Gundam models as a way to do the panel-lining. I just used straight enamel paint that was heavily thinned and ran it into the recesses/panel lines.
Some stuff I learned from that experience:
- You have to wait for the acrylic gloss coat to dry and harden 100%. And not just dry to the touch. Like give it a couple hours or a day or two, otherwise the friction of scrubbing will rub it off.
- The smoother your gloss coat, the less staining you get.
- Don't use Testor's Thinner. It's smelly and the formulation will soften the acrylic underneath. I used a tiny amount of lighter fluid in an extremely well-ventilated room.
- You can use make-up removal swabs instead of normal cotton swabs. They hold up more to pressure and are less likely to leave fibers behind.
- You need to be supremely careful around shallow detail when using the swabs.
- If you screw up and remove too much (and you likely will on some pieces), clean it up as best you can and wait for everything to dry before reapplying the panel line wash.
I've been using this since I saw your imperial knight video and its an awesome technique. THANK YOU!
Some extra advice to viewers, ensure your room / spray booth is well ventilated. This stinks!
Also if you want a really dirty look remove the wash lightly and you can get some really good effects.
Thanks so much, first saw this on your dark elder, wanted to try it but thought I’d mess it up lol, thanks for the guide. I will finally give it ago it’s this new knowledge. Keep up the great work.
I've done this for two years now, but never realised I can airbrush this! Earlier I could paint 30 Flames of War tanks in 3 evening, airbrushing I think I could do in 2.
Thanks for the video. That is a technique that I have never used. I will have to give it a try.
This is a really effective means to getting that “covered with hair” look
Great work DR.
What do you use to clean the airbrush after using enamels through it?
Great idea...
Wow! That's awesome. Another something from the Doc's Hoard of Shame got slapped with paint and is good for gaming. I think that I might start into painting vehicles just for display from this.
Buy a yard of 180 mesh screen print cloth. Filter any paint you think may clog your airbrush through it by cutting off a piece about 5" square and putting it in a funnel. I just did that with hundreds of paints that are almost 20 years old. It was tedious and time-consuming but it saved me a ton of money because the other option was to throw it all out and buy all new paints. What isn't an option is putting paint in my airbrush that's going to clog it. I REALLY don't want to be taking my airbrush apart to unclog it in the middle of painting.
Anyway, a yard of cloth is around ten bucks and is totally worth it. 180 works for enamels and acrylics. With acrylics you an just wash it. For enamels I just wiped it off between colors and did my colors in an order that a getting a small bit of the previous color wouldn't affect it noticeably.
They use to make mesh that was made to fit into an airbrush cup. Really hard to find now for some reason.
That SW: Legion AT-ST looks to be the same size as old mpc "Chicken Walker" kit, only much, much more accurate. So, your technique is like a sludge wash but done with an airbrush, interesting.
looks good to me yes good dirt and rust fun to do post new stuff and will see
Great advice and video!!!
Very handy method Doc' thanks for sharing :).
Super Video thanks for it and what I can learn from you
Awesome tip
Great info. I
Do u need to varnish your acrylic first if ur using the enamel wash or streaking grime with a brush for streaking effects? Not sure if the enamel would react with unvarnished acrylic paint.
It's not necessary to varnish in that case. Acrylic paint and the streaking grimes or oderless thinner won't react and it's relatively safe when using them in small concentrated areas.
@@ThePaintingClinic thanks for the info I was always confused on that do haven't gotten any yet. So just varnish if ur going to do oil washes or enamel washes all over. If for small weathering u dont have to. Thanks again.
How much PSI you used for spray streaking grime?
do yo have to put down gloss coating to take off wash??
amazing job. keep going! :D
@DoctorFaust: Good tip thank you! What ratio of thinner and ak interaktiv should be used for airbrushing it on the model?
You don't thin it.
Thanks!
Nice video, thanks for sharing!...Bill
The "punched contrasty" style you get by sinking washes into the recesses is of course very much _de rigueur_ these days. You do however get that "modelly" look (cf. your report on the exhibit in a recent video). Paul Budzik is an advocate of not applying more wash than warranted by the real-world griminess of the subject, and instead create natural shadowing by creating parts separation. On the Budzik approach, the models look much more realistic under the right lighting, although probably too flat under everyday lighting (because, you know, we are talking about _scale_ models). To each his own, of course, but you might find it useful to experiment in the Budzik direction, so you can eventually apply both techniques as appropriate.
Is the airbrush booth worth it? ive always wanted one
Yes if you have to spray inside.
How does it do on fumes ? For example, when u were using the oil based, I know the fumes can be intense. Thanks doc
Mine is cheap and is rated more for particles than fumes. If you have one that vents outside it would help.