The most difficult part of this job is compressing the piston back in, as YOU and potentially thousands of DYE`ers have found out and you managed to skip over that step. On that note I have no choice but to rate this video as FAIL.
Thanks so much for posting this! I didn't know about the rear piston or the tool kit. That would have been extremely frustrating! Brake job went perfectly with no problems at all.
@wps80 Good catch - at 8:00, I had trouble pushing the piston back, but at 8:35, I never explain how I fixed it. Turns out I had the PARKING BRAKE ON - that prevents the piston from being pushed back. The OReilly tool worked perfectly - once the parking brake was released. Make sure your car is probably braced/jacked up.
Normally you can't get the caliper off with parking brake on. Not sure how that was not not noticed sooner. But even with the brake off rotating the piston is still hard. What I did was remove the rotor and remount the bracket and caliper with the piston tool in place. Then you have the piston and caliper held tightly. That allows maximum clockwise force to be applied. You will need the kit like the one demonstrated to get this done.
Thank you! This video was extremely helpful and you did a great and thorough job explaining everything. I have no idea why there are any dislikes on this video...for me it was a total lifesaver.
Thanks for the video. It helped alot! I got the loaner brake tool from Pep Boys. We paid $69 and then were refunded $69 if returned within 10 days. I didn't use the adjustable wrench after I got the hang of it. Snug it up by hand. Then as you screw the brake caliper in it will loosen. Then you snug it up a little by hand to take up the slack you just created. Screw and repeat.
I bought the universal tool for turning the piston, but I can't push in while turning at the same time. Thanks for the video to show how to do it with this tool. Looks like i'll be buying one of these.
Thanks...everythig as you showed worked perfect..get my pad and loan tool from Autozone the pad for the 06 Mustang were 60 bucks and the tool was a deposit of 60 bucks. but you get that back. The piston screws to the right after you lock in the tool was a little hard to turn at first but gets easer as you go....thanks again sjmustang.
you would have had an easier time turning in the caliper if you would have clamped off the brake line to the caliper and opened the bleeder valve. also if you put the top caliper bolt back in place to secure the caliper from moving you would have been able to get more leverage when turning the "T" handle.
Real nice- you outta see a 2006 vehicle in upstate NY after all the salt and sand on the roads. Everything's rusted bad! Yours looks brand new.... feel lucky! : ) Wish it was as easy as yours seemed to be-
open the bleed screw to relieve the pressure and the piston will rotate easier. do the same in the front and it'll push in easier or should. if not your calipers are going bad and need replacement.
I don't remember if it was clock or counter clock but I was struggling with the same problem. My neighbor was passing by and told me; why don't you try the other way? And it worked.
i have to do my brakes, and this is my first time do so myself. are the front and rear brakes the same or will i need to purchase two different sets? thanks!
+Carlos Rodriguez The two wear components are the brake pads and the rotors. You only have to replace the rotors if they are too thin. If they shop measured them and are telling you they are below minimum thickness then you would have to do both (pads and rotors). There is a minimum thickness etching on the rotor that tells you the legal minimum. If you don't have to replace the rotor you can just do the pads. You also have the option of turning the rotor (a machine shop smooths them out) if you have enough thickness to afford to have some metal removed. Honestly I rarely turn them. Usually don't worry about it or if they are questionable replace them.
the only reason i watched this video is to see how to use the caliper tool kit. You had the same problem too. It was funny to see that you skipped that part and moved to the next step. lol
fuckkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk me, I Buy a new one i didnt knew I have to turn it, i press it and it wont go down and i though it was shut, fuccccccccccckkkkkkkkkkk i spent 75 box, i should have known it, the good this was i dont have to do the hell turning lol
i have to do my brakes, and this is my first time do so myself. are the front and rear brakes the same or will i need to purchase two different sets? thanks!
i have to do my brakes, and this is my first time do so myself. are the front and rear brakes the same or will i need to purchase two different sets? thanks!
The most difficult part of this job is compressing the piston back in, as YOU and potentially thousands of DYE`ers have found out and you managed to skip over that step. On that note I have no choice but to rate this video as FAIL.
I want to say thank you very much. After watching your video I replaced the rear brake pads and one of the rotors all by myself. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for posting this! I didn't know about the rear piston or the tool kit. That would have been extremely frustrating! Brake job went perfectly with no problems at all.
@wps80 Good catch - at 8:00, I had trouble pushing the piston back, but at 8:35, I never explain how I fixed it.
Turns out I had the PARKING BRAKE ON - that prevents the piston from being pushed back. The OReilly tool worked perfectly - once the parking brake was released. Make sure your car is probably braced/jacked up.
Normally you can't get the caliper off with parking brake on. Not sure how that was not not noticed sooner. But even with the brake off rotating the piston is still hard. What I did was remove the rotor and remount the bracket and caliper with the piston tool in place. Then you have the piston and caliper held tightly. That allows maximum clockwise force to be applied. You will need the kit like the one demonstrated to get this done.
Thank you! This video was extremely helpful and you did a great and thorough job explaining everything. I have no idea why there are any dislikes on this video...for me it was a total lifesaver.
Thanks a lot. The whole time I was talking to your video.. ''take the parking brake off''. :)
Thanks for the video. It helped alot! I got the loaner brake tool from Pep Boys. We paid $69 and then were refunded $69 if returned within 10 days. I didn't use the adjustable wrench after I got the hang of it. Snug it up by hand. Then as you screw the brake caliper in it will loosen. Then you snug it up a little by hand to take up the slack you just created. Screw and repeat.
I bought the universal tool for turning the piston, but I can't push in while turning at the same time. Thanks for the video to show how to do it with this tool. Looks like i'll be buying one of these.
gotta release the parking brake
Good idea!
Thanks...everythig as you showed worked perfect..get my pad and loan tool from Autozone the pad for the 06 Mustang were 60 bucks and the tool was a deposit of 60 bucks. but you get that back. The piston screws to the right after you lock in the tool was a little hard to turn at first but gets easer as you go....thanks again sjmustang.
you would have had an easier time turning in the caliper if you would have clamped off the brake line to the caliper and opened the bleeder valve. also if you put the top caliper bolt back in place to secure the caliper from moving you would have been able to get more leverage when turning the "T" handle.
YOU FORGOT TO SHOW HOW YOU MANAGED TO GET THE PISTON PUSHED IN
Real nice- you outta see a 2006 vehicle in upstate NY after all the salt and sand on the roads. Everything's rusted bad! Yours looks brand new.... feel lucky! : ) Wish it was as easy as yours seemed to be-
Very instructional and precise all torque specs right
open the bleed screw to relieve the pressure and the piston will rotate easier. do the same in the front and it'll push in easier or should. if not your calipers are going bad and need replacement.
Thanks alot for the help ....I hope you keep uploading more videos
Thanks for using the metric units on the tools.
For anyone else who sees this or has the same question - after testing, I was able to compress the piston while rotating clockwise.
@xzeen69x - No - the piston has to be ROTATED to be retracted. Using a C clamp would damage the piston.
Great job! Thank you for making this video.
I don't remember if it was clock or counter clock but I was struggling with the same problem. My neighbor was passing by and told me; why don't you try the other way? And it worked.
oh kool thanks for posting all the info very usefull tnks
i have to do my brakes, and this is my first time do so myself. are the front and rear brakes the same or will i need to purchase two different sets? thanks!
is it safe to use copper anti seize on back of brake pad? is it safe on rubber piston boot?
@kickeraudio987 - I have the Ford factory 2006 Mustang repair manual (about $150 - OUCH) so I quoted the specs from there.
@sjmustangs cool man thanks! i ended up renting the piston tools at a pep boys. your video helped thanks!
lol ! I was thinking... NO WAY does he have the brake on...
Come on man, you skipped right over the part where you had a problem with trying to get the piston to go in.. LOL what the hell is up with that?
If you read the first ten comments you'll see the piston didn't go in because I had the parking brake on. I did forget to mention that in the video.
Im in need of new break pad but the shop told me i couldn't just replace those i have to do all new brakes?
+Carlos Rodriguez The two wear components are the brake pads and the rotors. You only have to replace the rotors if they are too thin. If they shop measured them and are telling you they are below minimum thickness then you would have to do both (pads and rotors). There is a minimum thickness etching on the rotor that tells you the legal minimum. If you don't have to replace the rotor you can just do the pads. You also have the option of turning the rotor (a machine shop smooths them out) if you have enough thickness to afford to have some metal removed. Honestly I rarely turn them. Usually don't worry about it or if they are questionable replace them.
you cant get the piston pushed back with a c clamp?
Did the piston rotate clockwise or counterclockwise?
You didn't really how to depress the caliber piston. Also audio went away half way through. Am I supposed to turn it 90+
Can you please tell us how you got the piston compressed, mine still won't budge
if your piston wont go in, depending on if your brakes were completely gone you may have a ceased caliper
Sometimes it's a screw type needing a special tool. I've bent many brake separators trying to figure that out
I'm even more confused now than I was before I knew what the inside of the caliper looked like..
Where u get $12.50 rotors at
the only reason i watched this video is to see how to use the caliper tool kit. You had the same problem too. It was funny to see that you skipped that part and moved to the next step. lol
It looks like you are using a torque wrench to loosen the lug nuts. Very bad idea if so. Your torque wrench is now shot.
Having trouble pushing the piston in!!
What about the piston back, what are you doing.
fuckkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk me, I Buy a new one i didnt knew I have to turn it, i press it and it wont go down and i though it was shut, fuccccccccccckkkkkkkkkkk i spent 75 box, i should have known it, the good this was i dont have to do the hell turning lol
i have to do my brakes, and this is my first time do so myself. are the front and rear brakes the same or will i need to purchase two different sets? thanks!
i have to do my brakes, and this is my first time do so myself. are the front and rear brakes the same or will i need to purchase two different sets? thanks!
+Dru Pacabra there are two different sets of brakes one for the front and one for the rear.
+wildbill0013 yeah found out a few months back, thanx tho!