Thank you very much for pointing out that the nuts which holt the door on the hinges can also be used for the alignment, before I thought only about the bolts which attach the hinges to the frame. I need to adjust a newly installed door on our 2009 Nissan Sentra. The old one was damaged by the hit, so we bought another door and replacing it. The big question is about alignment. In Shop Manual I have for that car they give all the numbers for door adjustment which should be done after the installation of a new door. They say you release the bolts which keep the door on the frame and make the necessary adjustments. There are several films w/a special adjustment tool, like Leslie Door Adjustment Tool (Amazon), where people just lift the door without tightening anything. Are they are 2 different procedures on a door alignment? Thank you for so informative film again.
You have to open the door and point to the hinges your referring to. There are bolts inside that jam that are northward, and then other bolts that point east or west. So we need to know which bolts affect the doors alignment
Thank you for this video! Extremely helpful and one of the better explanations on YT! I am curious, you don't mention the striker installation or adjustment. At what point in the process do you deal with the striker? I see that the striker is removed during adjustments. Assuming this happens after all other adjustments? Would love to hear your approach.
Thanks for the very clear explanations. The issue I have with my 1968 Camaro passenger side door is that the body shop inserted shims between the upper hinge and the cowl. I am not sure why they put them there (maybe they did not understand the principles you explained). Fact is, if I remove them and fasten the top hinge to the cowl, the lower rear corner of the door comes far out about 7/16". Put the shims back in it still leaves the corner come out about 1/4". Appreciate any advice you can give.
It is possible the door was skinned and with a twist in it . It is possible to twist by rolling window down and placing a wood block in top of rear jamb and putting pressure on the lower part of the door ,but you can also damage worse if not carfull
@@Americansupercar thanks, I was considering this. There seems to be some tension in the lower left part of the pass. door. The glass is coming out before I attempt to reverse the twist. Hope it works, if carefully done.
@Americansupercar I've been looking for this kind of explanation, thanks. But that principle applies for all car doors? I don't have a super car but it's for my cargo van. There is a gap on the top rear end corner that causes loud wind noise. Looking forward for your helpful thoughts. TIA
My door/fender gaps were perfect after painting. One problem is the inner fender wells weren’t installed then. I re-installed them and have struggled with getting the door gaps correct since then. I’m certain the inner fender wells are preloading the fenders and changing the arc slightly. I’m thinking that I will loosen the IFW fasteners, adjust door/fender gaps, then tighten. Thoughts?
Thank you for the video. I have a problem of the door still not sitting right. Placing shims on the hinge to door, does not make any difference. There's a slight difference between hinge to door, which makes me think that either the a-pillar is warped or the doo, worse scenario both. Is ot possible to determine which is the warped part without special equipment? I hope you will be able to help.
That was excellent information. I’m having trouble with the new Striker bolt . I have removed the front fender installed new door hinges , new door latch & lined up the door . The striker seems to be in line but it doesn’t always open using the door handle. It opens every time from inside the car with ease ? What am doing wrong?
It's possible the outside handle is not engaging the latch if the inside handle works everything which is common if You tell me what kind of car maybe I can help
Put the old outside door handle back sometimes the rod is to short even though its new I have seen many new handles with a penny glues on the latch wher the rod hits in@cjsciandra2623
Just brought home a '64 Catalina 2+2 from resto/body shop. The gap to front fender is fair, probably should have been wider. I installed new door weatherstrip, but haven't closed the door all the way with the resistance and concern about that fender gap. It looks like it's even closer now. I'm concerned with it rubbing my new paint. Is that accurate, the weatherstrip will push the door toward the fender meaning I need to readjust? Thanks in advance.
I do have a question sir. Replaced the passenger side door on my 1980 Pontiac Gand Prix. Both hinges and pins are good, Org, door was rusty, so installed a good used one. Door to qtr. panel and door to fender gaps are pretty good and it closes and opens ok. The whole door needs to be raised to align the top of the door {where the window sweeps are on top} to the body lines. In other words, there is an 1/8 gap between the window glass and the window weatherstrip when the window is raised all the way up in the closed position. I did not remove the hinges from the cowl, they are in the factory installed position. I only removed the hinge to door bolts. I was just going to loosen those bolts and either place a floor jack under the center of the door a little to lift it and retighten the bolts, or loosen the bolts, close the door gently and use an angled piece of 2x4 between the bottom of the door and the rocker panel to force the door up. By the way, the front fender is still on and in the same position since 1980. Will prying up on the door bend or damage the door bottom lip and or rocker panel? Any advice will be great. Thanks
If the sheetmetal is aligned and looks good there is adjustments inside the door to move glass in and out ,if it's the sheetmetal you would see the it pushed in at rocker ,in that case loosen lower hindge on door side and pull out ( may need to slightly loosen top hindge door side to allow it to move ,if I understood you correctly this should help
Is there a way for me to send photographs of what I am talking about? I think you misunderstood the door Sheetmetal alignment problem that is causing the glass to be short on travel.
Good video. I took both hinges off. Bought new ones for 68 mustang. Do l have to take the front fender off to get the door correctly on? Cause fooling with the adjustment bolts is a bear!
Hello their I have a 1963 impala SS oh by the way great video now the issue I’m have with car is the driver side door at the bottom rear corner it sticks out about a inch or so any suggestions you could give me I would appreciate it
The whole door or just the back? You need to look at all the gaps to know what is wrong for example if the back of the door is low the top front will have a larger gap
Morning, I have a 69’ Camaro and my passenger door shuts past its stopping point. The door goes in to much not giving me the flush look when closed. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
I want to make the bottom of go in, whilst bringing the top out (i.e. rotate the door slightly clockwise). Would this mean tightening the top hinge, and loosening the bottom?
Just seen this. The rear of the door towards the back wheel arch is sticking out too far at the bottom. The rest of the bottom of the door aligns okay as you move towards the front of the door by the front wheels
What kind of car are we talking about ,assuming with Phillips head bolts its a Nova ,if there tight it is difficult to get to the cowl bolts with out removing the fender and you will probably need and inpact screw driver .
First thing I'm the dumbest person on earth mechanical, so. My pt cruiser got hit lightly the bottom door where Mark is ,is in and the top is out a bit . So do I loosten the bottom ?
@Americansupercar hi the gap is on the rear left door it's like 1 cm and sticks out a bit but the door closes. If I loosen the bolts and push the car door to make it smaller and flush, as soon as I tighten the bolts it goes back to the gap and sticking out. This is a junkyard replacement but compatible years it should fit lol
Im sorry i guess i wasent clear where is it sticking out the whole back of door from top to bottom or lower or upper part of back of door a pick or video would be helpful@herbbot8241
@Americansupercar the whole thing is like sticking out from top to bottom it's not flush and there's like a cm gap it's annoying when ever I tighten bolts it goes back to that position
Thanks quick clear and to the point didnt have to learn your dogs and aunties names and ancestery . !! good job .
That was the clear explanation i needed for my own project.
Thank you so much! This Video Saved me a ton of time and frustration. I was getting a terrible whistling noise; now its gone. Thank you Thank you!
Thank you. Very helpful. Great explanation. Best I have found, clear precise and understandable.
Thank you for making this simple explanation!
Thank you very much for pointing out that the nuts which holt the door on the hinges can also be used for the alignment, before I thought only about the bolts which attach the hinges to the frame. I need to adjust a newly installed door on our 2009 Nissan Sentra. The old one was damaged by the hit, so we bought another door and replacing it. The big question is about alignment. In Shop Manual I have for that car they give all the numbers for door adjustment which should be done after the installation of a new door. They say you release the bolts which keep the door on the frame and make the necessary adjustments. There are several films w/a special adjustment tool, like Leslie Door Adjustment Tool (Amazon), where people just lift the door without tightening anything. Are they are 2 different procedures on a door alignment? Thank you for so informative film again.
Thank you. That worked for me. My left rear door had some trouble closing all the way sometimes. I noticed it was out at the bottom. Now it's perfect.
Awesome simple video! Thanks.
You have to open the door and point to the hinges your referring to. There are bolts inside that jam that are northward, and then other bolts that point east or west. So we need to know which bolts affect the doors alignment
Thank you for this video! Extremely helpful and one of the better explanations on YT! I am curious, you don't mention the striker installation or adjustment. At what point in the process do you deal with the striker? I see that the striker is removed during adjustments. Assuming this happens after all other adjustments? Would love to hear your approach.
Excellent explanation thank you.
Thanks for the very clear explanations.
The issue I have with my 1968 Camaro passenger side door is that the body shop inserted shims between the upper hinge and the cowl.
I am not sure why they put them there (maybe they did not understand the principles you explained).
Fact is, if I remove them and fasten the top hinge to the cowl, the lower rear corner of the door comes far out about 7/16". Put the shims back in it still leaves the corner come out about 1/4".
Appreciate any advice you can give.
It is possible the door was skinned and with a twist in it . It is possible to twist by rolling window down and placing a wood block in top of rear jamb and putting pressure on the lower part of the door ,but you can also damage worse if not carfull
@@Americansupercar thanks, I was considering this. There seems to be some tension in the lower left part of the pass. door. The glass is coming out before I attempt to reverse the twist. Hope it works, if carefully done.
@Americansupercar I've been looking for this kind of explanation, thanks. But that principle applies for all car doors? I don't have a super car but it's for my cargo van. There is a gap on the top rear end corner that causes loud wind noise.
Looking forward for your helpful thoughts. TIA
My door/fender gaps were perfect after painting. One problem is the inner fender wells weren’t installed then. I re-installed them and have struggled with getting the door gaps correct since then. I’m certain the inner fender wells are preloading the fenders and changing the arc slightly. I’m thinking that I will loosen the IFW fasteners, adjust door/fender gaps, then tighten. Thoughts?
This is the best DIY auto video. Superb
Great video. My door is outboard at the top rear and inboard at the bottom rear. I'll try the hinge to door adjustment.
Good explanation thanks for your help.
to the point..good info..a refresher is what I needed
Thanks for this video it helps a lot.
Can the rest of the door be removed past the panel I need to get to the lock
Thank you for the video. I have a problem of the door still not sitting right. Placing shims on the hinge to door, does not make any difference. There's a slight difference between hinge to door, which makes me think that either the a-pillar is warped or the doo, worse scenario both. Is ot possible to determine which is the warped part without special equipment? I hope you will be able to help.
Do rear doors need alignment
That was excellent information.
I’m having trouble with the new Striker bolt . I have removed the front fender installed new door hinges , new door latch & lined up the door . The striker seems to be in line but it doesn’t always open using the door
handle. It opens every time from inside the car with ease ?
What am doing wrong?
It's possible the outside handle is not engaging the latch if the inside handle works everything which is common if You tell me what kind of car maybe I can help
It’s my 1968 Camaro driver side . Everything is new .
Put the old outside door handle back sometimes the rod is to short even though its new I have seen many new handles with a penny glues on the latch wher the rod hits in@cjsciandra2623
thanks, explanation on the point !
Just brought home a '64 Catalina 2+2 from resto/body shop. The gap to front fender is fair, probably should have been wider. I installed new door weatherstrip, but haven't closed the door all the way with the resistance and concern about that fender gap. It looks like it's even closer now. I'm concerned with it rubbing my new paint. Is that accurate, the weatherstrip will push the door toward the fender meaning I need to readjust? Thanks in advance.
Too the point and short and sweet... That is what we like
Very useful explanation!
Amazing explication! Thanks for sharing from Brazil!
I do have a question sir. Replaced the passenger side door on my 1980 Pontiac Gand Prix. Both hinges and pins are good, Org, door was rusty, so installed a good used one. Door to qtr. panel and door to fender gaps are pretty good and it closes and opens ok. The whole door needs to be raised to align the top of the door {where the window sweeps are on top} to the body lines. In other words, there is an 1/8 gap between the window glass and the window weatherstrip when the window is raised all the way up in the closed position. I did not remove the hinges from the cowl, they are in the factory installed position. I only removed the hinge to door bolts. I was just going to loosen those bolts and either place a floor jack under the center of the door a little to lift it and retighten the bolts, or loosen the bolts, close the door gently and use an angled piece of 2x4 between the bottom of the door and the rocker panel to force the door up. By the way, the front fender is still on and in the same position since 1980. Will prying up on the door bend or damage the door bottom lip and or rocker panel? Any advice will be great. Thanks
If the sheetmetal is aligned and looks good there is adjustments inside the door to move glass in and out ,if it's the sheetmetal you would see the it pushed in at rocker ,in that case loosen lower hindge on door side and pull out ( may need to slightly loosen top hindge door side to allow it to move ,if I understood you correctly this should help
Is there a way for me to send photographs of what I am talking about? I think you misunderstood the door Sheetmetal alignment problem that is causing the glass to be short on travel.
Yes email to americansupercar@gmail.com
Thank you very very much!
Good video. I took both hinges off. Bought new ones for 68 mustang. Do l have to take the front fender off to get the door correctly on? Cause fooling with the adjustment bolts is a bear!
It is possible to install door with fender inplace but it will try your patience
Hello their I have a 1963 impala SS oh by the way great video now the issue I’m have with car is the driver side door at the bottom rear corner it sticks out about a inch or so any suggestions you could give me I would appreciate it
Tough question without seeing it on all four corners could you post or send me a video and I will try to help
Thank you!
I have a cargo van that making a lot of noise. Driver side door top has a gap towards the back corner.
how do I adjust up ?
Nice video, but can I come visit you, both my doors are quarter inch low on my 72 Camaro 😢
I need to raise my left door on my 73 El Comino. Please reply. Thank you.
The whole door or just the back? You need to look at all the gaps to know what is wrong for example if the back of the door is low the top front will have a larger gap
God bless you
What if you were replacing the quarter panel? How would you know where to set the door the align the fender and quarter panels?
Change the 1/4 first it will dictate the door location
Morning, I have a 69’ Camaro and my passenger door shuts past its stopping point. The door goes in to much not giving me the flush look when closed. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
make sure you have the correct rubber bumpers if so loosen the striker pin and adjust it out re tighten should fix problem
thanks man!
I want to make the bottom of go in, whilst bringing the top out (i.e. rotate the door slightly clockwise). Would this mean tightening the top hinge, and loosening the bottom?
Need more info are we talking about front bottom rear bottom or whole bottom?
Just seen this. The rear of the door towards the back wheel arch is sticking out too far at the bottom. The rest of the bottom of the door aligns okay as you move towards the front of the door by the front wheels
👍🏻👍🏻
I have a 67 Fairlane with movable door plates
How do ypu adjust the bottom door side hinge being they are Phillips head and half the hinge is in the way
What kind of car are we talking about ,assuming with Phillips head bolts its a Nova ,if there tight it is difficult to get to the cowl bolts with out removing the fender and you will probably need and inpact screw driver .
@@philsomers1772 67 Firebird
First thing I'm the dumbest person on earth mechanical, so. My pt cruiser got hit lightly the bottom door where Mark is ,is in and the top is out a bit . So do I loosten the bottom ?
thankuuuu!!!!
How about got a big gap and sticks out a little i tried adjusting doesnt work
Where is the gap and where is it sticking out
@Americansupercar hi the gap is on the rear left door it's like 1 cm and sticks out a bit but the door closes. If I loosen the bolts and push the car door to make it smaller and flush, as soon as I tighten the bolts it goes back to the gap and sticking out. This is a junkyard replacement but compatible years it should fit lol
Im sorry i guess i wasent clear where is it sticking out the whole back of door from top to bottom or lower or upper part of back of door a pick or video would be helpful@herbbot8241
@Americansupercar the whole thing is like sticking out from top to bottom it's not flush and there's like a cm gap it's annoying when ever I tighten bolts it goes back to that position
@@Americansupercar if its the whole back of the door you need to loosen the striker pin and move it in ,that should pull the door in
👍👏
Thanks, for the idiot proof explanation...let me see how I screw my project up.😂
The imaginary X thanks!!!
Post some videos of your build 💯
So i Guess is out losing
Awesome man thank you
Joke what policies did they mention that will actually help? JOKE