Happy Anniversary!!! Good to see all of you in the same video getting some work done and enjoying the time together. Nice box blade and laser setup. Taking the loader off the 1025R gave you more room to maneuver in a tight space.
Great video. I got to watch my two favorite UA-camr's and the box blade being used is built in my hometown of Kingman, KS. The end product looked professionally done and I think a small contractor would be able to use this set-up. Thanks and Happy Anniversary!!
Tim… that is cool! I can see several applications for it. Getting the stone level inside of the barn was a challenge for me. I had it level before the barn was built. But, we decided to raise it four inches higher to improve drip line drainage. Spreading an additional 4” flat after construction was a royal pain… that would have made it way easier. Especially if Neil had showed up to run the box blade! Thanx Tim… I’m gonna run over to his channel now and see his perspective!!
So I had seen the perspective from Neil on his channel, loved the storytelling and interaction. Now I have seen this from yours and you are both my favorite channels! You both are great storytellers, knowledgeable and grading Experts!
Happy Anniversary Tim and Christy. The box blade did a wonderful job on the floor grade. Johnny did a fine job of pulling the box even without all the power and added weight Johnny X carries.
Another great collaboration of two great channels. Really enjoy the passion you three have, not only for the work you're doing but for the high quality videos you produce. Thanks for the informative entertainment.
Tim and Christy, Thank you so much for your videos. My I learn so much. The man there with you is incredibly knowledgeable and it is fun to see this all come together. By the way and not to be an afterthought. Happy 30th Anniversary to you. God Bless You. Faith Family and Fun. I allways look forward to your Bible Verse at the end of your Videos. Thanks again. John in Missouri Valley Iowa
That’s a great attachment. It would be a game changer to a small contractor. Another great collaboration between you guys. It made my Sunday morning. 😊. Happy anniversary!!!
What a nifty unit! It is a marvel. You folks make a great team, and the experience and practical application result in an impressive outcome, and fun to watch. Speaking of a great team…30th anniversary blessings to you and Christy! Blessings.
Happy Anniversary guys!! So excited to see you using the laser system. Like I’ve told you before I build custom horse arenas in my retirement and have been looking for an affordable box blade laser system. I like the idea of tow behind because I feel it will take the tractor twisting over un even surfaces out of the equation. Problem with tow behind though is even though a three point box blade doesn’t have down force, it does help ADD weight to the rear drive tires with the box loaded or empty even. Truly wish you lived closer Tim to try this system out, and sit down and discuss this further. Please keep the videos coming on this system I truly have a big need for one.
Super cool! I am used to running a box blade to do "on the fly" grading, but this is a whole different ballgame where you're working to an absolute reference over a large area with very good accuracy. The results look excellent.
Happy anniversary! What an awesome and innovative system. I agree, there is some room for improvement, but wow! With a bit more tuning, the whole thing shows SO much promise.
The thing we noticed was the flow restricters on the hydraulic lines. It appears you put connectors on the flow restricters so you can add them in line where needed, as opposed to adding them to the implement. We have a flail mower with hydraulic side shift and tilt. The side shift goes WAY too fast, so adding in restricters would be a help. In our case, these are 1/4” rear hydraulic connectors on our LX2610. I’d need the restricters on both directions, I take it, and connectors with male threads into the restricters.
Just to add my .02 on the 3 point mount on this. I think you would be best to go with just a 2 point mount (no top link) and possibly go with a caster type wheel similar to the rear end of a swather to keep your turning radius tight. Then keep a way to lock it for when in pull type use. I think you’ll be happier with a semi mounted set up because it will keep much more weight transferred to the rear wheels of the tractor for traction
I like the work that you and Neil do , I watch both of your videos, but I think I will just keep my box grader and blade! There paid for!!! Have a great week....
Things I learned from leveling almost 1000 acres of farm land. Find your low spot and then go the nearest high spot and drag that to the low spot. When the blade gets about half empty go to manual and dump the rest of the material and then run back to the high spot for another load. Also do not drag material while turning, except when finishing, always do heavy pulls in a straight line. You did have to do things a little differently working inside a barn. Picking up excess material with another tractor is a good idea, we used a 7 yard JD dirt pan. We worked together with the blade continuously smoothing the high and low ends to keep from digging too low or piling too high. Electronics are much cheaper now, in 1987 I paid $20,000 for a used system. It consisted of a duel grade laser emitter mounted on a trailer and an automatic control panel and solenoid valve with a single receiver. I built my own 14 ft box blade. I kept cringing every time you got close to the wall with the bucket still on the loader. I was relieved to see you finally dropped the bucket off.
We left the loader on for ballast. Notice that we had a bucket mostly full of rock. Needed all the weight we could get. My family has some land leveling work to be done. We could use your help!
I love that system and it looks to work very well. The one thing I would like to see, and i think would help with filling low spots to one side is to flip the lift wheels to the inside instead of the outside.
Great video Tim! Good outcome as well! If you’re ever in NC and want to try another method I have an deere excavator with an engcon head and idig grade system. Be happy to let you give it a shot.
Wow, that shows commitment. I'm not sure working on a video on your 30th anniversary is a good thing, but I hope things turned out well with the double cheeseburgers. 🙂 Happy Anniversary! God Bless.
Johnny X is gonna be the tractor to use on all the small stuff from now on 😂 👍👍👍. I love my 5ft 3 point box blade on my 955 even tho I did get my self into to trouble going too deep, rain, and having call in another train of gravel🤦♂️😂.
Congratulations on your 30th Anniversary! "Unless the LORD builds the house, the laborers labor in vain". May you have many more. With the addition of a 3 pt adaptor, Perhaps another thing to think of is a pivoting 2 point connection to the tractor, instead of the drawbar. It would be a bit more combersome to attach, but it may have some advantages too. One being able to adjust the height to manipulate the angle of the cutting edge for the box blade. This of course would affect the retention of material in the box itself. ( engineering solutions apply ) Also it may transfer a bit more weight to the tractor for additional traction.
@@TractorTimewithTim Perhaps I didn't explain well. Pivoting 2 point like on the front of a semi mount plow( or some larger hay conditioners. ) The only differenc is you could maintain a pure trailing setup, ( not linked to athe rear wheels, like the plow ) with no need for caster wheels in the rear. However, If you did the full mount version, it would need the casters. Todd
@@kaytod yea, got it. The advantage would be a bit of down pressure on the tires. There is a small dirt pan company that uses the swivel 2 point mount approach like you describe…I think for the downforce/traction reason.
I'm familiar with that company, located in Kansas. I hope you may get a chance to review some of their products as well. Having run pans before, it is far easier to carry dirt in a pan rather than drag it in a box blade. If it's the same company I'm thinking of, they make a pull type box blade with rear compacting roller. It might be handy when doing larger fill and driveway work. I was going to make that sugggestion regarding the company, but I don't know if it's proper to mention their names in this forum. I don't have any affilliation with anyone, so there's no skin in the game for me. all the best to you Tim and your whole familly. GOD bless Todd
The weight bracket you welded together really rocked it on the project. (Couldn't resist a pun.) I saw eight of the 42lb weights on there. I'll have to suggest this type of box blade for a hs classmate that does cement work. Also, Happy 30th Anniversary to you and Christy.
If you can when you're doing something like that I found that it helps quite a bit if you get yourself a bucket load of ballast. Helps both with steering and traction
Regarding using the box blade in 3PH mode, I'm thinking that the 3PH tilt cylinder could be actuated by the "tilt" laser to achieve a ditch grade. I've added a removable hitch to my laser box blade (with gauge wheels) so that it can be used in 3PH or trailing mode. There are pros and cons both ways but still does a great job of leveling in 3PH floating mode.
Awesome! I have thought about a dual set up, pull behind/3 point. I watched Neil's video on his CAD mock up of his home built box blade. Several problems for me. I don't have property, yet. I don't have a tractor, yet. I don't have resources to build my own yet. Hey, I'm just a guy dreaming, for know. I love the idea of being able to 3 point, rough work and reverse push material, then add pull bar and do finish grade. I thought about removable wheel assemblies, left and right side hydraulics to be able to do slopes, or linked to do level grades. Again, location, resources and talent, needed.
We did not use the ‘backhoe’ we used the bucket on the front of the backhoe tractor. Little Johnny was busy. More efficient to use the second tractor….and it could push more.
@Tractor Time with TIm That is a slick setup. That has to be soo much better than two people with a stick running around trying to get it level. Would you say that's about plus/minus an inch? Glad you enjoyed. P.S. Going to see if I can get my local rental place to get one.
Congratulations on your 30th Anniversary! Ours is 7/10 but I doubt I'll be doing any videos that day. Too stinking hot in TX to anywhere other than in front of the computer with the A/C cranked.
It may have already been mentioned (I didn't read all 192 comments) but could you utilize your heavy hitch (along with the built-in receiver hitch) with this setup to add significant weight to the rear axle (and thus traction)? I realize you'd have to be careful with backing up since there's no down-pressure, but with that in mind, seems like adding 800-ish pounds to the 3-pt hitch would have helped a . And with that much weight, I don't think the lack of down pressure while backing up would be much of an issue as long as you were raising the box-blade up first.
When starting out with a huge difference in grade like you had, I would begin with setting the lasers to leave the grade higher than what you will finish at. Get a couple inches moved, then set back to finish grade and move the rest.
You know Tim, you were speaking of a 3 point bb. How about considering this. Getting a quick hitch and putting the heavy hitch 3 point hitch on. The one without the suitcase weight bracket. Put a receiver hitch in without a ball in it and do it that way with the pull behind. Just my thoughts.
I think the power masts would make a huge improvement. WHen you are starting and have VERY high areas the blade trys to take that in one cut which is what is stalling the tractor. If you could run the sensors down from the seat so you take a 1 inch cut on each pass you'd be able to work your way to the correct grade without all the rough starts and stops.
If you have places that are very high, where it might want to take very heavy cuts, could you trick the system by setting the laser tripod a little bit high at first, and ease it toward your intended final grade?
Honestly that is where manual mode comes in to play. Over ride the system of you know you need to remove a few inches or more do it manually. Auto mode for the fine tuning
Without changing any hydraulic cylinder mountings, extending the tilt side wheel out 4 to 6 inches would give you more tilt. It would also tilt faster. May have to add a swivel to the tongue if you get to much tilt.
The wheels need to be inline with each other if he wants the cutting edge to stay square to the ground while raising/lowering off the lift cylinder alone.
For that kind of money it should be able to a driveway, it would be a matter of having a measuring wheel on the side and the ability to start at one grade and then taper it down or up to another....something for the company to think about. I enjoyed the video, I never would have thought something like thiswould be available for Johnny!
Another great episode Happy Anniversary Tim you better get her a milkshake to go with that cheeseburger letting you play with tractors on your anniversary
I would grade to the middle, and windrow the surplus to the middle. Then measure the windrow to determine how much aggregate is left. Then pull the surplus out with the backhoe, and do final grade. Or, recalculate the grade to use the amount of gravel you have available. I would use it on the 3-point, with longer rear links to the wheels. That would slow the reaction speed of the blade, to give you a smoother surface. But being hooked to the adjustable 3-point you could adjust angle of attack on the blade. Take a good look at a full size Grader/blade. The blade is pulled from very front, but controlled in reference to the rear axle set, which move independently to average the grade. Your set up has the elevation control a bit too close, and longer rear links would adjust the reaction rate. and going to a set of tandem wheels on the rear links would help average out the highs and lows.
That is interesting, I have neem thinking about getting a pull type box for a mid size tractor, I scrape my drive way every couple months, the driveway and around the shop is around 1800ft plus another 500 outside the gate. Using a basic pull box its really hard to maintain level in places
Great video! Its great to see equipment like this out there. Justifying the cost is something else. I'm curious if it would have worked more in your favor if you had adjusted the receivers to take approx 1/2" at a time at the beginning. Locate the highest point of the pad and adjust them to take 1/2" off. It would start to loosen the material and level that area and then adjust the receivers to take another 1/2" and so on. Depending on how far the floor was off, the receivers may have been trying to take a few inches (or more) of material right off the batt. overwhelming the box and tractor. By allowing the box blade to shave off a little at a time until you got to the designated height, may have been easier. Plus it helps having the other machinery there to assist.
Probably removing a couple of weights would probably have been better. 1/2” at a time would just distribute the highest spots to spots which were STILL too high.
@@TractorTimewithTim I Absolutely agree that it would still be high! But working the material in small increments into the low areas would be easier on the machine verses biting to much off at one time. Seeing that the material is packed its hard on the tractor and scraper. Large scrapers on industrial sites do the same. Scrape from a high spot and drop at the low spot. Take a little at a time until you get to your designated height. Still a great video on todays technology
with the hydraulic valves, the lift or Up needs to be the faster action, the drop or down needs to be as slow as possible but both need to be very slow compared to what you would use manualy, that way you don't over shoot the "on grade" and dig a hole, this will also allow you to dump quicker if it starts to overload the tractor, the key is to not loose all the load just lift enough so that the tractor can pull through the high spot and then come back and take another bite at the high you lifted over.
Likely they should have found the high spot and set their sensors 1 inch lower than that then started incrementally lowering it. Or reduced the weights on the box so it would float more when it got to a heavy cut. Another option would be for the cutting box to be a box so it would only hold so much then the contained material would cause it to float.
Cool video! Question, is there a way to shorten or order the laser kit(s) without the 350' of cable that needs to be coiled everywhere? This is a very interesting product, it just adds to the swiss army knife capabilities of a small tractor. Happy anniversary!
Cool video! Always makes me nervous to see a loader close to walls. It doesn't take much to put that cutting edge through some wood. And I may or may not be talking from experience.
Hey Tim! I’ve been thinking about the Summit kit… I need some information. I know there are different types of valves, but I don’t know their uses… For example: what valve would you use for a hydraulic top link?
@@TractorTimewithTim I think my question is not tractor specific… I am looking for information on the different types of valves and why you’d use one over another. To answer your question, I have a BX2680 and an L4701
Beautiful! In that case, summit has a kit which will provide you up to 4 scv’s. It will simply connect into your power beyond ports. If you want the backhoe on at same time, simply connect ‘in series’ with the summit kit.
![Box Scraper Grades Floor Perfectly Level! [Laser Guided Automatic Grader Box]](/img/n.gif)
Awesome video! Awesome grader box. I'm already dreaming up some new projects in order to try it again! 😋
Thanks again for coming out to help!
Its like you 2 are talking a different language! LOL The experts when it comes to GRADING! I absolutely love this one....
2 Geniuses of there time! Love it!
Maybe you are over-stating it a bit!
Happy Anniversary!!!
Good to see all of you in the same video getting some work done and enjoying the time together.
Nice box blade and laser setup. Taking the loader off the 1025R gave you more room to maneuver in a tight space.
Hey Ilmo! Yea, we left the loader on for ballast as long as we could.
Great video. I got to watch my two favorite UA-camr's and the box blade being used is built in my hometown of Kingman, KS. The end product looked professionally done and I think a small contractor would be able to use this set-up. Thanks and Happy Anniversary!!
My 2 favorite yourube channels working together.... You both produce must see viewing each time you put content out!
Happy Anniversary!!!!!!
Tim… that is cool! I can see several applications for it. Getting the stone level inside of the barn was a challenge for me. I had it level before the barn was built. But, we decided to raise it four inches higher to improve drip line drainage. Spreading an additional 4” flat after construction was a royal pain… that would have made it way easier.
Especially if Neil had showed up to run the box blade!
Thanx Tim… I’m gonna run over to his channel now and see his perspective!!
Neil is my guy! Glad you are workind together.,..i love his channel and enjoy his storytelling....i love box blades ..
So I had seen the perspective from Neil on his channel, loved the storytelling and interaction. Now I have seen this from yours and you are both my favorite channels! You both are great storytellers, knowledgeable and grading Experts!
💥 That laser box blade is incredible!
*Keep on tractoring!*
This is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you Tim.
It works, Jeff! For the price, this is hard to beat!
Happy Anniversary Tim and Christy. The box blade did a wonderful job on the floor grade. Johnny did a fine job of pulling the box even without all the power and added weight Johnny X carries.
Happy anniversary!
Another great collaboration of two great channels. Really enjoy the passion you three have, not only for the work you're doing but for the high quality videos you produce. Thanks for the informative entertainment.
Happy Anniversary to you both. I am amazed how well you both get along together especially since you work together.
I gotta say this is one of the cooler grading technologies I’ve seen
Tim and Christy, Thank you so much for your videos. My I learn so much. The man there with you is incredibly knowledgeable and it is fun to see this all come together. By the way and not to be an afterthought. Happy 30th Anniversary to you. God Bless You. Faith Family and Fun. I allways look forward to your Bible Verse at the end of your Videos. Thanks again. John in Missouri Valley Iowa
That’s a great attachment. It would be a game changer to a small contractor. Another great collaboration between you guys. It made my Sunday morning. 😊. Happy anniversary!!!
What a nifty unit! It is a marvel. You folks make a great team, and the experience and practical application result in an impressive outcome, and fun to watch. Speaking of a great team…30th anniversary blessings to you and Christy! Blessings.
The box blade and laser level system did a great job! Happy anniversary!
Happy Anniversary guys!!
So excited to see you using the laser system.
Like I’ve told you before I build custom horse arenas in my retirement and have been looking for an affordable box blade laser system.
I like the idea of tow behind because I feel it will take the tractor twisting over un even surfaces out of the equation.
Problem with tow behind though is even though a three point box blade doesn’t have down force, it does help ADD weight to the rear drive tires with the box loaded or empty even.
Truly wish you lived closer Tim to try this system out, and sit down and discuss this further.
Please keep the videos coming on this system I truly have a big need for one.
California, right?
Happy anniversary to you guys may god’s blessings be with your year ahead 🙏
Great video! I love both of your channels! Two great men!
Happy Anniversary Tim and Kristy!
Super cool! I am used to running a box blade to do "on the fly" grading, but this is a whole different ballgame where you're working to an absolute reference over a large area with very good accuracy. The results look excellent.
Happy anniversary! What an awesome and innovative system. I agree, there is some room for improvement, but wow! With a bit more tuning, the whole thing shows SO much promise.
Good morning & God bless you today & thank you for sharing
The thing we noticed was the flow restricters on the hydraulic lines. It appears you put connectors on the flow restricters so you can add them in line where needed, as opposed to adding them to the implement. We have a flail mower with hydraulic side shift and tilt. The side shift goes WAY too fast, so adding in restricters would be a help. In our case, these are 1/4” rear hydraulic connectors on our LX2610. I’d need the restricters on both directions, I take it, and connectors with male threads into the restricters.
DiscountHydraulicHose.com. They can fix you up.
Happy Anniversary!
Just to add my .02 on the 3 point mount on this. I think you would be best to go with just a 2 point mount (no top link) and possibly go with a caster type wheel similar to the rear end of a swather to keep your turning radius tight. Then keep a way to lock it for when in pull type use. I think you’ll be happier with a semi mounted set up because it will keep much more weight transferred to the rear wheels of the tractor for traction
I like the work that you and Neil do , I watch both of your videos, but I think I will just keep my box grader and blade! There paid for!!! Have a great week....
Things I learned from leveling almost 1000 acres of farm land. Find your low spot and then go the nearest high spot and drag that to the low spot. When the blade gets about half empty go to manual and dump the rest of the material and then run back to the high spot for another load. Also do not drag material while turning, except when finishing, always do heavy pulls in a straight line.
You did have to do things a little differently working inside a barn. Picking up excess material with another tractor is a good idea, we used a 7 yard JD dirt pan. We worked together with the blade continuously smoothing the high and low ends to keep from digging too low or piling too high.
Electronics are much cheaper now, in 1987 I paid $20,000 for a used system. It consisted of a duel grade laser emitter mounted on a trailer and an automatic control panel and solenoid valve with a single receiver. I built my own 14 ft box blade.
I kept cringing every time you got close to the wall with the bucket still on the loader. I was relieved to see you finally dropped the bucket off.
We left the loader on for ballast. Notice that we had a bucket mostly full of rock.
Needed all the weight we could get.
My family has some land leveling work to be done. We could use your help!
@@TractorTimewithTim If only I lived closer. Leveling land is fun and therapeutic.
Great collab with Neil. Thanks for buying him lunch!😂🤣
I love that system and it looks to work very well. The one thing I would like to see, and i think would help with filling low spots to one side is to flip the lift wheels to the inside instead of the outside.
Love the collaboration videos. Neil is great. He needs a Summit kit on his tractor. Please make a video when he gets it.
Two of my favorite channels, why wouldn't I watch?
Great video Tim! Good outcome as well! If you’re ever in NC and want to try another method I have an deere excavator with an engcon head and idig grade system. Be happy to let you give it a shot.
Nice job Tim. The innovation on this channel is great! Love the variety of everything.
That was cool looks like your getting it dialed in.
Nice toy ,I was drooling the whole time
Such a useful tool for this kind of work.
Looks Great as always.
Great Video Tim 👍👍 Always remember that if you love what you're dong You'll never work a day 👍👍
Wow, that shows commitment. I'm not sure working on a video on your 30th anniversary is a good thing, but I hope things turned out well with the double cheeseburgers. 🙂 Happy Anniversary! God Bless.
Johnny X is gonna be the tractor to use on all the small stuff from now on 😂 👍👍👍. I love my 5ft 3 point box blade on my 955 even tho I did get my self into to trouble going too deep, rain, and having call in another train of gravel🤦♂️😂.
Always interesting to see what you guys get into! Happy Anniversary Tim And Christy! 😁
Hello Tim bigger tractor needed for this job more power and no spinning of wheels. Good video.
Awesome!
Congratulations on your 30th Anniversary! "Unless the LORD builds the house, the laborers labor in vain". May you have many more.
With the addition of a 3 pt adaptor, Perhaps another thing to think of is a pivoting 2 point connection to the tractor, instead of the drawbar. It would be a bit more combersome to attach, but it may have some advantages too. One being able to adjust the height to manipulate the angle of the cutting edge for the box blade. This of course would affect the retention of material in the box itself. ( engineering solutions apply ) Also it may transfer a bit more weight to the tractor for additional traction.
Yea, that might be good. The only issue would be the straight lift assist wheels. Would need crazy wheels...which I do not typically like.
@@TractorTimewithTim
Perhaps I didn't explain well. Pivoting 2 point like on the front of a semi mount plow( or some larger hay conditioners. ) The only differenc is you could maintain a pure trailing setup, ( not linked to athe rear wheels, like the plow ) with no need for caster wheels in the rear.
However, If you did the full mount version, it would need the casters.
Todd
@@kaytod yea, got it. The advantage would be a bit of down pressure on the tires. There is a small dirt pan company that uses the swivel 2 point mount approach like you describe…I think for the downforce/traction reason.
I'm familiar with that company, located in Kansas. I hope you may get a chance to review some of their products as well. Having run pans before, it is far easier to carry dirt in a pan rather than drag it in a box blade. If it's the same company I'm thinking of, they make a pull type box blade with rear compacting roller. It might be handy when doing larger fill and driveway work. I was going to make that sugggestion regarding the company, but I don't know if it's proper to mention their names in this forum. I don't have any affilliation with anyone, so there's no skin in the game for me. all the best to you Tim and your whole familly.
GOD bless
Todd
I need a warm introduction…I’ve tried cold calls…no luck.
The weight bracket you welded together really rocked it on the project. (Couldn't resist a pun.) I saw eight of the 42lb weights on there. I'll have to suggest this type of box blade for a hs classmate that does cement work. Also, Happy 30th Anniversary to you and Christy.
Tim to the Rescue. Thanks Guys.
Mike M
Happy Anniversary..
Congratulations on the 30 year marriage anniversary that is a great achievement something you don't come across nowadays
If you can when you're doing something like that I found that it helps quite a bit if you get yourself a bucket load of ballast. Helps both with steering and traction
Happy Anniversary
Great video. Happy Anniversary
Happy anniversary Kristy and tim
Looks good Tim
Like the video. Happy Anniversary, you seem to work well together and enjoy each other's company, traits needed for a successful relationship.
Hi Tractor Time with Tim. The box blade works really well. HAPPY ANNIVERSARY🌹🚜🍔.
Great video, once you make the correct adjustments you make it look easy-to-do, nice looking base, ready for cement..... 🙂👍🙏
Great video! Absolutely amazing!
It worked very well! Check out Neil’s video.
Happy Anniversary great video interesting tech
Regarding using the box blade in 3PH mode, I'm thinking that the 3PH tilt cylinder could be actuated by the "tilt" laser to achieve a ditch grade.
I've added a removable hitch to my laser box blade (with gauge wheels) so that it can be used in 3PH or trailing mode. There are pros and cons both ways but still does a great job of leveling in 3PH floating mode.
Yep. Might work!
Awesome! I have thought about a dual set up, pull behind/3 point. I watched Neil's video on his CAD mock up of his home built box blade. Several problems for me. I don't have property, yet. I don't have a tractor, yet. I don't have resources to build my own yet. Hey, I'm just a guy dreaming, for know. I love the idea of being able to 3 point, rough work and reverse push material, then add pull bar and do finish grade. I thought about removable wheel assemblies, left and right side hydraulics to be able to do slopes, or linked to do level grades. Again, location, resources and talent, needed.
Happy anniversary.
I’m just wondering why you used the backhoe when you had a bucket on the front??
We did not use the ‘backhoe’ we used the bucket on the front of the backhoe tractor.
Little Johnny was busy. More efficient to use the second tractor….and it could push more.
Wow your 30 anniversary my wife and I are celebrating 33 years on June 17
@Tractor Time with TIm That is a slick setup. That has to be soo much better than two people with a stick running around trying to get it level. Would you say that's about plus/minus an inch?
Glad you enjoyed.
P.S. Going to see if I can get my local rental place to get one.
Nice box blade
Congratulations on your 30th Anniversary! Ours is 7/10 but I doubt I'll be doing any videos that day. Too stinking hot in TX to anywhere other than in front of the computer with the A/C cranked.
Happy anniversary
It may have already been mentioned (I didn't read all 192 comments) but could you utilize your heavy hitch (along with the built-in receiver hitch) with this setup to add significant weight to the rear axle (and thus traction)? I realize you'd have to be careful with backing up since there's no down-pressure, but with that in mind, seems like adding 800-ish pounds to the 3-pt hitch would have helped a . And with that much weight, I don't think the lack of down pressure while backing up would be much of an issue as long as you were raising the box-blade up first.
I think a three point hitch mount might adversely affect the side to side tilt.
Yes. It would. Good point!
Do you think if you installed a needle valve in line it could smooth out the quick/jerky bounce when the valve opens/closes?
I have flow controls. Have adjusted them as best I can. So, no.
Well dang. I had to ask!
When starting out with a huge difference in grade like you had, I would begin with setting the lasers to leave the grade higher than what you will finish at. Get a couple inches moved, then set back to finish grade and move the rest.
You guys should try to get your hands on a laser grader, yes thats a brand name of a tiny grader, 12ft long 4ft wide👍
Very well great guy.
You know Tim, you were speaking of a 3 point bb. How about considering this. Getting a quick hitch and putting the heavy hitch 3 point hitch on. The one without the suitcase weight bracket. Put a receiver hitch in without a ball in it and do it that way with the pull behind. Just my thoughts.
I think the power masts would make a huge improvement. WHen you are starting and have VERY high areas the blade trys to take that in one cut which is what is stalling the tractor. If you could run the sensors down from the seat so you take a 1 inch cut on each pass you'd be able to work your way to the correct grade without all the rough starts and stops.
Just what I was thinking.
If you have places that are very high, where it might want to take very heavy cuts, could you trick the system by setting the laser tripod a little bit high at first, and ease it toward your intended final grade?
@@douglasjackson1998 Yup.. Same thing except with the power masts one can do it on the go without hopping off the tractor repeatedly.
Honestly that is where manual mode comes in to play. Over ride the system of you know you need to remove a few inches or more do it manually. Auto mode for the fine tuning
Without changing any hydraulic cylinder mountings, extending the tilt side wheel out 4 to 6 inches would give you more tilt. It would also tilt faster. May have to add a swivel to the tongue if you get to much tilt.
The wheels need to be inline with each other if he wants the cutting edge to stay square to the ground while raising/lowering off the lift cylinder alone.
For that kind of money it should be able to a driveway, it would be a matter of having a measuring wheel on the side and the ability to start at one grade and then taper it down or up to another....something for the company to think about. I enjoyed the video, I never would have thought something like thiswould be available for Johnny!
Dual slope laser head, the box blade will follow the laser. So you can set a slope for each driveway section.
Another great episode Happy Anniversary Tim you better get her a milkshake to go with that cheeseburger letting you play with tractors on your anniversary
The weights make a huge difference and increase its functionality.
Clever as all get out.
Fascinating
I would grade to the middle, and windrow the surplus to the middle. Then measure the windrow to determine how much aggregate is left. Then pull the surplus out with the backhoe, and do final grade. Or, recalculate the grade to use the amount of gravel you have available.
I would use it on the 3-point, with longer rear links to the wheels. That would slow the reaction speed of the blade, to give you a smoother surface. But being hooked to the adjustable 3-point you could adjust angle of attack on the blade. Take a good look at a full size Grader/blade. The blade is pulled from very front, but controlled in reference to the rear axle set, which move independently to average the grade. Your set up has the elevation control a bit too close, and longer rear links would adjust the reaction rate. and going to a set of tandem wheels on the rear links would help average out the highs and lows.
That is interesting, I have neem thinking about getting a pull type box for a mid size tractor, I scrape my drive way every couple months, the driveway and around the shop is around 1800ft plus another 500 outside the gate. Using a basic pull box its really hard to maintain level in places
Yep. Call the folks at c5mfg.com. Tell ‘‘em I sent you. They will fix you up.
Great video! Its great to see equipment like this out there. Justifying the cost is something else. I'm curious if it would have worked more in your favor if you had adjusted the receivers to take approx 1/2" at a time at the beginning. Locate the highest point of the pad and adjust them to take 1/2" off. It would start to loosen the material and level that area and then adjust the receivers to take another 1/2" and so on. Depending on how far the floor was off, the receivers may have been trying to take a few inches (or more) of material right off the batt. overwhelming the box and tractor. By allowing the box blade to shave off a little at a time until you got to the designated height, may have been easier. Plus it helps having the other machinery there to assist.
Probably removing a couple of weights would probably have been better. 1/2” at a time would just distribute the highest spots to spots which were STILL too high.
@@TractorTimewithTim I Absolutely agree that it would still be high! But working the material in small increments into the low areas would be easier on the machine verses biting to much off at one time. Seeing that the material is packed its hard on the tractor and scraper. Large scrapers on industrial sites do the same. Scrape from a high spot and drop at the low spot. Take a little at a time until you get to your designated height. Still a great video on todays technology
If you have a 3 point hitch made for the box blade, couldn't you put caster wheels on the back so the wheels won't slide.
Happy Anniversary.
I think Johnny X would have worked really well for this job. Also do you think you can get ag tires for it? That would help with traction alot.
Yes, Johnny X woulda helped.
The R1’s that are available are not aggressive enough to help.
@@TractorTimewithTim Dang you would think they would make them like the ones for the bigger tractors.
with the hydraulic valves, the lift or Up needs to be the faster action, the drop or down needs to be as slow as possible but both need to be very slow compared to what you would use manualy, that way you don't over shoot the "on grade" and dig a hole, this will also allow you to dump quicker if it starts to overload the tractor, the key is to not loose all the load just lift enough so that the tractor can pull through the high spot and then come back and take another bite at the high you lifted over.
Likely they should have found the high spot and set their sensors 1 inch lower than that then started incrementally lowering it. Or reduced the weights on the box so it would float more when it got to a heavy cut. Another option would be for the cutting box to be a box so it would only hold so much then the contained material would cause it to float.
Can this be used on any plow?
Must be able to electrically control the hydraulics.
What is the reasoning behind running two separate receiver control boxes instead a dual receiver system?
CANAMEK doesn’t make a dual receiver system.
love the set up. Just a little more hp would make a huge difference. Might have to add a set of scarfires for hard spots.
Yea, or maybe a bit less weight woulda allowed it to pull a bit easier
Cool video! Question, is there a way to shorten or order the laser kit(s) without the 350' of cable that needs to be coiled everywhere? This is a very interesting product, it just adds to the swiss army knife capabilities of a small tractor. Happy anniversary!
Well, if used on a ‘normal sized’ tractor, there would not be so much extra cable.
@@TractorTimewithTim I suppose, but looks like enough cable to attach it to the back of a 747 :-)
Cool video! Always makes me nervous to see a loader close to walls. It doesn't take much to put that cutting edge through some wood. And I may or may not be talking from experience.
Yep. Me too. Ran through my shelterlogic wall.
Hey Tim! I’ve been thinking about the Summit kit… I need some information. I know there are different types of valves, but I don’t know their uses… For example: what valve would you use for a hydraulic top link?
What tractor do you have? We have a video showing 11 hydraulic options for the 1025r. Would likely be a good place to start.
@@TractorTimewithTim I think my question is not tractor specific… I am looking for information on the different types of valves and why you’d use one over another. To answer your question, I have a BX2680 and an L4701
Do you have backhoe on either one?
@@TractorTimewithTim I have a BH92 on the L4701
Beautiful! In that case, summit has a kit which will provide you up to 4 scv’s. It will simply connect into your power beyond ports. If you want the backhoe on at same time, simply connect ‘in series’ with the summit kit.
Woah, how old was the boy running the roller? Need to put my son to work I guess.
Yep. Put him to work! Have high expectations and trust! He will reward you for it!