Finally we arrived at miniature painting muk bang. Feel the thrill of acquiring and painting a whole, new army without having to do it yourself and all within the span of one video. What a time to be alive.
I can't believe how much work you put into these videos man!! It blows my mind. Not to mention the editing, sound and post production work. Stay classy mate. Your awesome.
Sounds like you've sorted your printer issues out, but if you ever have problems in future, the Atlas supports discord will sort you out. They do the presupports for a lot of STL patreons, and will help anyone to troubleshoot and dial in their printers. General advice I can give would be that lift speeds are typically best either really slow (sub 40), or really fast (180/240+) - 90 is in a bit of a grey zone. Great video though!
I'm actually seriously considering (and have been for awhile) painting under a camera. The biggest issue is it's gotta be low latency, and I've got some of the problems Jeremy does with hand tremors.
Bless you. I get so discouraged by folks on UA-cam 3d printing and never having (or at least showing) the failures. I feel like a noob when I STILL get failed prints, after a year or more of printing. Thanks for showing the successes and the failures
@@techbeef Yeah that should be how it goes. A lot of effort to get it set up initially then very little failure because it's all already correct. I'm assuming James struggles with supports as thats the only way I can see failures happening once the printer & resin are calibrated.
I love tight deadline videos like this! It's cool to see you what you strip down in your process to make tabletop ready minis in a short amount of time.
Oh also when I’ve been printing them I usually have it a lot slower than you, like half the speed and I’ve only had like 2 failures (upped the first layer cure time fixed it)
You know…it’s funny you just posted this and not even thinking about it I ended up having to speed paint over 100 of my own minis. Including purchased and printed minis. Not only that, I think there’s some of the One Page Rules minis in there too. Not shown is the 3 days of non-stop (24 hours a day) mini and vehicle/terrain printing. LOVE your videos. You’re one of the creators that got me into making my own terrain/painting minis.
With my Mono X I print very quickly. 1.0s exposure time and and 20s bottom layer with Siraya Tech resin. I usually get miniatures done in 2 hours or less. Black Magic Craft, You should probably use PTFE to help with the FEP sticking and yeah slowing the Lift Speeds helps with it as well. I also have to say my firmware is a custom firmware Anycubic gave me for my Mono X so not sure if that is the specific reason for my prints being able to print so quickly.
This is so cool, I got my 1st 3d printer last week (photon mono) after eyeballing how cool archvillian models were on your channel, I've been having a great time with it (lots of learning from fails), however watching this I think my exposure time has been waaay to high, I saw someone say 10s for minis, absolutely gonna try it with 2.5s see what happens haha
Love that UA-cam folks are really starting to show people the advantages of 3D Printing. Most vids out there are don't get into 3d printing its to hard its really complex its dangerous they aren't detailed enough blah blah blah. Once you get just the basics down you can be ripping out 2000 point 40k armies in a week if not sooner depending on model points cost. And the DND, Pathfinder and any tabletop game potential is absolutely insane. You can get whole adventure sets, warbands, skirmish groups done in a day and be ready to play the next day or that night if you go unpainted but what heathens play with grey minis.
Nice job in just a day! Just a little suggestion from a guy down the road in Regina...check your room temperature when printing with resin. I built a little enclosure and added a small heater for my printer and it made a HUGE difference with reducing failures. It's hard to justify keeping an entire room at 25C to 30C for a print but it can REALLY help depending on the recommended temperature range for your resin.
When I get around to painting some of my Robot Legion minis after printing them, I'm thinking about metallic or iridescent colors, maybe tryout some color shifting paints if I can get some.
Awesome. I usually have the opposite problem - I plan for a game, start buying and painting the figures, then get overwhelmed by the scope of my plans and get sidetracked on something else. I have a lot of "started" projects but not many " completed" ones. Those figs came out great. Cheers!
Quick guide to painting cyberpunk miniatures: 1) Give them a zenithal highlight in 2 contrasting, bright colors (for example: Light blue and neon pink) 2) Give it a dark wash 3) Give it a light dry brush Boom perfectly serviceable minis for a cyberpunk setting
Hey mate. If you have the luxury of time (ha!) I'd love to see you run with your initial vibe and paint up some minis in a colour scheme outside of the 'default expected' theme.
I'd done a 24 hour thing shortly before Covid lockdowns started though more limited in options because it was when the game store owner got a few resin printers (Most were borrowed for the contest they had)...a lot of things for going from print to table is picking your models right for it. You can also "cheat" with different options depending upon your specific choices. I went for a spectral undead force that let me spend most of my time in details...starting with a transparent/translucent blue resin option and some historical models for a force of ghostly warriors. After curing, I hit them with a mat varnish spray followed by a light blue drybrush, then it was for red glowing eyes (I filled the eyes with reaper gory red and dotted with their breast cancer awareness pink, then a smaller dot of pure white), along with some detail work with metallics and some brighter colors for gems. Had a second print run of detail pieces for the bases that were rather easy to do and mix up for the base...the original setup were for the models, second were some tombstones and similar things for the bases that mixed with some basing mix. Actual contest was starting in the evening and running the prints over night and a second print run available if we wanted it during the day of work. It was fun and exhausting there, force was still at the store last time I was there and it got me $50...which got me a pretty good D&D book
I know you mentioned things failing in the center of the print bed - myself and many others had the same issue on the Mono X, what potentially is the case is a warped print bed. Anycubic sent out a LOT of printers with a bed that was concave so the middle was sunken in compared to the sides, just enough so things would fail.
failures in the middle happens because that's where the fep lifts the most (being far away from the edges). you can get a few more prints by lowering lifting speed and raising lifting height, but at the end of the day it just means it's about time to replace the fep with a new one.
Ever since I saw your video on making the ballista for the duchies of vinci I was obsessed with those models and I can say that video alone was enough to get me into 3D printing. About a month ago I got started with a photon mono and now this week I've finally started printing out a DoV army to proxy as a kingdoms of men army for kings of war. I'm hoping to get most of if not all the army printed over the week, however I think that the pièce de résistance of the army (an automata guard blown up by 400% to proxy as a giant) will probably take me over that time limit. Also your day 1 with a 3D printer video was a helpful resource when I was setting up to do my first print. Only thing I will say is that I unfortunately don't seem to get on with OPR's supports, I find them very finicky in ways I've not had with others. The main thing is I've found sometimes that the supports just don't come off well and occasionally take parts of the model with them, especially thinner more delicate parts. It's odd since I've not had this problem with anything else I've printed.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Yeah, thanks for the tip though. It might be a temp thing, I've used hot water which seems like it was just enough to get the supports off which may mean the breaks were from me exerting too much force when trying to remove them. I've had a better time using water straight from the boiling kettle, as it allows me to flex more delicate parts away from the supports, but that in turn may be making the model too weak, guess it's just going to take a bit of finnessing!
You have multiple machines that you use for your 3D prints, I assume printing, cleaning and UV proving, exactly which do you have please. You essential equipment takes me to amazon but to an out of stock item right now so it would be nice to hunt around. Many thanks for the awesome videos, ideas and encouragement.
Ah god, I always procrastinate on my RPGs. We don't use minis, but I draw a lot of the NPCs in our games and do all the maps, and always find myself cramming up to the last minute. I really need to manage my time better.
Doing an entire Abyssal Dwarf Army for Kings of War....all 3d printed all handmade bases ala Geek and Gaming. The hardest part has by far been the printing with all the mishaps I've had and having to fix my printer. I'm still missing 3 large models because my Mono is too small for such big pieces and would take forever. The painting has been easy going...lots of air brush rattle cans and soon to be dry brushing followed by an oil wash....I hope it ends up looking decent!
That looks awesome!! I think I would have a hard time finishing a mini that nicely even if I had all the time I wanted! I totally understand the waiting last minute to do a project though. I decided to create a wizard tower the night before a DnD session and I essentially took a pringles can, cut out "rocks" from egg carton material (wonder where I got that idea from lol), glued the rocks and a few details and I painted it with the black paint mod podge base and a few hours before the game was about to start I only had time left to just quickly dry brush gray over the black. I also made a roof with individual wooden shingles. It was crazy but I was actually proud of what I accomplished. The tower does need a better paint job though!
You should do this challenge again. A new army. 24 hours. OPR. Get hold of ARMYPAINTER new speedpaints. And have a 3 colour minimum. Maybe do it as 12 print and cure time. 24 hours to prime, paint AND base.
OPR is Amazing, I tried to get into Age of Sigmar with my gf after 13 Years of not playing Tabletop and the new Ruleset is Coplicated as hell. I get that it's probably great if you are already invested and know what you are doing, but just for some casual rounds here and there it's a lot. OPR can be learned in one day and they even offer a Point Calculator to make your of Weapons, Units and Spells and I love it. I've been spending weeks designing my own Units, giving them names and making fancy Stat Cards for them.
considering that was such a whipshit project those turned out really nice. I wonder how many DMs don't even enjoy their games cause they are tired from working the night before though?.. that could be a whole video I think.
For stuff to stick better you can kick up the bottom exposure time, as you conclude, more lift height will probably help, especially for larger build volumes as more fep has more stretch before everything lets go. If models dont build on your supports you are most likely under exposing or the temperature being too low for the resin to cure in the expected time.
Yeah, lift speed can cause a whole ton of issues. Since I reduced mine significantly (90 is crazy to me tho, mine is at 35. But then, I have a Gen1 Photon, the Mono X might be different in that regard), I barely have ANY failures at all any more, even on delicate bits and supports. BTW, you could've probably fit another 6-8 models on that plate with a little bit of plate tetris.
Wish I had the money for a resin printer. There are so many cool artists out there I want to support and buy their STLs while being able to print out cool miniatures for my D&D games.
2.5s layer time is... kinda short, specially for medium and large format printers. It makes sense if it's a Mono screen, but only on translucent resins. I've had more luck in the 2.7-2.8 range on the same resin you're using. Though I only do like 4-5 bottom layers at 35-38s, 55 seems like a lot; though that's not a big deal and highly depends on the printer. 1.8-2.5s layer time is absolutely possible with transparent or translucent ABS like resins, at least that's been my experience; if it's warm, cold resin makes things difficult. Good luck!
Ideal exposure times vary significantly even between printers of the same brand because they're manufactured cheaply and tolerances deviate quite a lot. My original photon required about 16s exposure for the same resin that other people used 6s exposure. That said, I assume he was pretty underexposed for this print.
I think in general most people overexpose to avoid failures. I’ve found this resin on this printer to give the best detail around 2.5/2.6. I went through a bottle of zMUD beige and got best detail and no over exposure over 3 seconds.
Every time I see one of these "Weekend Army/1-Day Army" challenges, it increases my desire for a resin 3D Printer, XD. The ability to print off scores of minis at such a good quality really quick is amazing. I think they turned out great, definitely some stylish minis~
If you're having trouble with the center of your plate for the mono x there are a few things you can try. I had a series of blunders for this printer as well. 1. You're Fep may be damaged, or its not tuned properly. If its the same one that came with the unit, its MOST Likely over-tightened, and cannot be tuned further. You'll have to buy a new fep. I've got recommendations if you need them, 2. Your plate isn't level, this one is a trick specifically because you may be doing an excellent job in the leveling process, however, you're not locking down the plate on the armature the same way if you've taken it off since then. You'll note that when you put the plate on and turn the knob, it may move slightly There are a few printed remedies for this as 'upgrades' to your machine. 3. You're resin isn't warm enough. Depending on what you're using, it may just be meh resin. I use Elego ABS like Grey or Siraya tech Navy Blue. Both good results. -- Hapy to connect with you over discord if needed
I actually changed the FEP and haven’t had an issue with the center since. Don’t know if it’s the lift speed or that, but things are working better now regardless.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial lift speed / vroom settings do have an impact. I'm not sure if I'm just lucky or not. I've found the mono x to be very machine specific in terms of settings and... 'results'. Awesome to hear that yours are getting better! I look forward to. More content!
what colors did you use for the models if you don't mind me asking i love the grimdark look you gave these with whatever that contrast yellowy green was.
I have a dumb question... Do you simply super glue the mini on a stick? I ask this because I've done that before and I often have terrible removing them later... At least not without snapping off a thin leg or joint or accidentally cutting off a toe. I'm just wondering if there's a glue that's easy to remove later but strong enough that I can flip the mini upside down without falling off the stick. I've tried poster tack and double sided tape as well, but they don't work any better.
I sometimes glue, but yea it can be sketch to remove. I mostly use double sided tape. In general I often glue to bases before paint just cause I can then attach the base to something with less worry.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Thank you, sir. Your channel is truly inspiring. It’s guided me down my own crafting journey these last few years. Thanks for all your work.
If you spray WD-40 Specialist Dry Lube With PTFE on a paper towel and coat the resin tray before adding the resin, it will stop the sticking. I had a few failed prints till I learned about that, now it only fails when I run out of resin, runing lift speed at 80 and never sticking. Also mix in 10-20% Siraya Tech Tenacious wiht the standard grey resin and models won't be so brittle.
I’m not convinced about the PTFE. There’s a lot of argument for it being snake oil or a bandaid, BUT I did order a bottler on Tenacious the other day to mix in.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial PTFE lube is recommended against by most manufacturers/professional printers. It's essentially the same material as the FEP anyway, it only lasts for a few prints, and can mix with and degrade resin properties. If prints are failing there is a different issue, and PTFE just adds another variable to go wrong.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial The amount I've used is very small, on a paper towel wiped on the bottom of the tray, doubt I'll ever use the entire can. I don't leave resin in the tray after my print has fininshed, it stopped the sticking that I was running into when I first started, never found any issues using it. The tenacious has made a huge diffrence though, I was running into swords snapping when removing the supports, went to a 50/50 mix and you can bend the weapons without breaking. Use a 10% for walls, floors and such but I go back to 50/50 for characters.
Something to try, use a pearl based white paint for the Zen highlights. The luster beneath a transparent color wash has a neat effect that you hardly see other folks do. Createx 5310 as a reference for a cheaper airbrush compatible paint.
I was wondering if you could answer a question, I've been doing all kinds of things with foam but what can I do to avoid the dust? It's very annoying specially on things like trees, grass, etc. Thank u so much for all these videos I love your channel!! 💪🏻💙
Heyo , no doubt you probably tried it with yours but on my HalotOne printer i had issues with adhesion in the middle and after trying a bunch of suggestions it was the derpiest simplest thing, re-tension my FEP...... that solved it... though as an aid i also always wipe down the fep with PTFE dry lubricant spray whenever i drain the vat and clean everything, every little helps right? :) good fun stuff though man, those late night 'ooh i could just do XYZ' are the bane of my GM'ing existence.. but it keeps me on my toes!
One thing I've learned from being a procrastinator btw: For resin prints you can **absolutely** skip priming. Takes too long to dry and airbrushing on a basecoat of regular acrylic black/zenithal works just fine and is dry in minutes. Paint grabs on to resin prints very well because the surface isn't actually smooth but made up of tiny voxel cubes. As long as you seal the minis properly, priming is not at all needed.
You should... Well not really just a joke ofc.. Make an april fools video where you try to make a burrito in 10 minutes. Make the seasoning like the painting part while expressing the joy.
Wondering if your build plate might be concave, can you print something in the middle by itself? Maybe print out a beam or something else running from one end of the build plate to the other to help troubleshoot the problem.
Thanks to *ONE PAGE RULES* for inspiring this build and sponsoring this video.
GRAB THIER MODELS HERE: www.patreon.com/onepagerules
I've recently gotten into OPR: Grimdark Future. I'll never go back to the other company. Thanks for showing it some love.
Check out forest dragon miniatures 10mm full armies. Great detail
I love OPR's robot army, they're like Necrons meet Star Wars battle droids.
Finally we arrived at miniature painting muk bang. Feel the thrill of acquiring and painting a whole, new army without having to do it yourself and all within the span of one video. What a time to be alive.
I can't believe how much work you put into these videos man!! It blows my mind. Not to mention the editing, sound and post production work. Stay classy mate. Your awesome.
Thanks for recognizing that ❤️
I'm actually really impressed by your paint job - you got that whole squad looking seriously badass in like 4 steps. Nice stuff!
Sounds like you've sorted your printer issues out, but if you ever have problems in future, the Atlas supports discord will sort you out. They do the presupports for a lot of STL patreons, and will help anyone to troubleshoot and dial in their printers. General advice I can give would be that lift speeds are typically best either really slow (sub 40), or really fast (180/240+) - 90 is in a bit of a grey zone. Great video though!
Can anyone join this discord? I'm having a terrible time trying to get my models to stay on supports.
I never knew that fast lift speeds could work too. I guess I'll try it for faster printing.
I have SOOOOOOOOOOO NEVER DID THAT LOL!!!!!!!!!! Last minute builds I should have a degree in!!!!!! Love seeing that I'm not the only one !!!!!!
If my eyesight was up to it, I might be able to paint one miniature in a day!
Never say never, magnifying stands and drybrushing go a long way!
I'm actually seriously considering (and have been for awhile) painting under a camera. The biggest issue is it's gotta be low latency, and I've got some of the problems Jeremy does with hand tremors.
I'm glad to see you're getting more into the 3D printing. There are some really great FB and discord groups for help that have been so helpful for me.
I really like the harsh shadows in the video they look super cool
Bless you. I get so discouraged by folks on UA-cam 3d printing and never having (or at least showing) the failures. I feel like a noob when I STILL get failed prints, after a year or more of printing. Thanks for showing the successes and the failures
Once I dialed in my settings, I stopped having any level of failure. Prior to that it was a roll of the dice.
@@techbeef Yeah that should be how it goes. A lot of effort to get it set up initially then very little failure because it's all already correct. I'm assuming James struggles with supports as thats the only way I can see failures happening once the printer & resin are calibrated.
The simple scene where you follow the printer with the music, 3 seconds, a moment of beauty. You do great work sir.
Robot Legions! And the colors ended up great!
I am a patron with One Page Rules and I agree, they make some really great miniatures!
M y guy is becoming a whole mini factory but with high quality and dedication
I love tight deadline videos like this! It's cool to see you what you strip down in your process to make tabletop ready minis in a short amount of time.
I actually subbed to one page rules like a year ago thanks to one of your videos. They have great lizardman models that I’m proxying for seraphon
Oh also when I’ve been printing them I usually have it a lot slower than you, like half the speed and I’ve only had like 2 failures (upped the first layer cure time fixed it)
You know…it’s funny you just posted this and not even thinking about it I ended up having to speed paint over 100 of my own minis. Including purchased and printed minis. Not only that, I think there’s some of the One Page Rules minis in there too. Not shown is the 3 days of non-stop (24 hours a day) mini and vehicle/terrain printing. LOVE your videos. You’re one of the creators that got me into making my own terrain/painting minis.
With my Mono X I print very quickly. 1.0s exposure time and and 20s bottom layer with Siraya Tech resin. I usually get miniatures done in 2 hours or less. Black Magic Craft, You should probably use PTFE to help with the FEP sticking and yeah slowing the Lift Speeds helps with it as well. I also have to say my firmware is a custom firmware Anycubic gave me for my Mono X so not sure if that is the specific reason for my prints being able to print so quickly.
"Get her done!" - Wise words for us all!
Yes... yes, you can 😉
Very motivating video and man you paintjob is so easy, fast and straight forward and still looks very decent! Totally fine for this purpose!
These look great especially since you constrained yourself to one day start to finish! Hope this inspires loads of people to have a go themselves.
This is so cool, I got my 1st 3d printer last week (photon mono) after eyeballing how cool archvillian models were on your channel, I've been having a great time with it (lots of learning from fails), however watching this I think my exposure time has been waaay to high, I saw someone say 10s for minis, absolutely gonna try it with 2.5s see what happens haha
Some printers are stronger/faster than others. 8s on 0.05mm is fine for me on my Elegoo Mars Pro. 5-6s on 0.025mm
When I printed on my Photon with the same resin I was doing 12s. It can vary a lot by printer, resin, temperatures, etc.
Love that UA-cam folks are really starting to show people the advantages of 3D Printing. Most vids out there are don't get into 3d printing its to hard its really complex its dangerous they aren't detailed enough blah blah blah. Once you get just the basics down you can be ripping out 2000 point 40k armies in a week if not sooner depending on model points cost. And the DND, Pathfinder and any tabletop game potential is absolutely insane. You can get whole adventure sets, warbands, skirmish groups done in a day and be ready to play the next day or that night if you go unpainted but what heathens play with grey minis.
I'm a big fan of their new Jackals Army :p
Nice job in just a day! Just a little suggestion from a guy down the road in Regina...check your room temperature when printing with resin. I built a little enclosure and added a small heater for my printer and it made a HUGE difference with reducing failures. It's hard to justify keeping an entire room at 25C to 30C for a print but it can REALLY help depending on the recommended temperature range for your resin.
That turned out great! The paint job reminds me of the mondoshawan from Fifth Element. Like these guys could be the evil version of them haha
This did help motivate me to get my stuff painted :)
When I get around to painting some of my Robot Legion minis after printing them, I'm thinking about metallic or iridescent colors, maybe tryout some color shifting paints if I can get some.
Awesome. I usually have the opposite problem - I plan for a game, start buying and painting the figures, then get overwhelmed by the scope of my plans and get sidetracked on something else. I have a lot of "started" projects but not many " completed" ones. Those figs came out great. Cheers!
It's definitely faster than sculpting my own minis! :D
Quick guide to painting cyberpunk miniatures:
1) Give them a zenithal highlight in 2 contrasting, bright colors (for example: Light blue and neon pink)
2) Give it a dark wash
3) Give it a light dry brush
Boom perfectly serviceable minis for a cyberpunk setting
awesomeness: the only constant thing on this channel
Welcome to Cyberpunk Red/2020 TTRPG. Hope you like the system and lore. Nice to see this game continues to grow through the decades :D
Love your copy of heroquest in the background
I love the final look. They look like they are more than a little bit past the manufacturer's warranty instead of fresh off the assembly line.
I see the plaguebearer flesh contrast paint come out... "he's gonna go full grimdark"
I like the colors. Nice cohesive unit. Well done.
Nice to see 3D printing is just as simple & problem free as snipping & gluing bits by hand. Mwa. Haha. 🤯🥳
Hey mate. If you have the luxury of time (ha!) I'd love to see you run with your initial vibe and paint up some minis in a colour scheme outside of the 'default expected' theme.
I'd done a 24 hour thing shortly before Covid lockdowns started though more limited in options because it was when the game store owner got a few resin printers (Most were borrowed for the contest they had)...a lot of things for going from print to table is picking your models right for it. You can also "cheat" with different options depending upon your specific choices.
I went for a spectral undead force that let me spend most of my time in details...starting with a transparent/translucent blue resin option and some historical models for a force of ghostly warriors. After curing, I hit them with a mat varnish spray followed by a light blue drybrush, then it was for red glowing eyes (I filled the eyes with reaper gory red and dotted with their breast cancer awareness pink, then a smaller dot of pure white), along with some detail work with metallics and some brighter colors for gems. Had a second print run of detail pieces for the bases that were rather easy to do and mix up for the base...the original setup were for the models, second were some tombstones and similar things for the bases that mixed with some basing mix.
Actual contest was starting in the evening and running the prints over night and a second print run available if we wanted it during the day of work.
It was fun and exhausting there, force was still at the store last time I was there and it got me $50...which got me a pretty good D&D book
I know you mentioned things failing in the center of the print bed - myself and many others had the same issue on the Mono X, what potentially is the case is a warped print bed. Anycubic sent out a LOT of printers with a bed that was concave so the middle was sunken in compared to the sides, just enough so things would fail.
I think my issue was the factory FEP being too tight, because I changed it and it seems to have resolved the problem.
Don't forget to clean your resin vat after any failures! Or you can get a FEP puncture!
Wheres the Black Magic Craft Spotify playlist at? Tunes are always *chefkiss*
Hey great video! Would love to see a part two w/ maybe a bigger model from the range? These are kick-ass!
failures in the middle happens because that's where the fep lifts the most (being far away from the edges). you can get a few more prints by lowering lifting speed and raising lifting height, but at the end of the day it just means it's about time to replace the fep with a new one.
I did end up replacing it, even though it was fairly new, and it seems to have helped a lot!
Looking good. Nice work
Try the OPR tips for print settings... They definitely suggest a slower lift speed.
Ever since I saw your video on making the ballista for the duchies of vinci I was obsessed with those models and I can say that video alone was enough to get me into 3D printing. About a month ago I got started with a photon mono and now this week I've finally started printing out a DoV army to proxy as a kingdoms of men army for kings of war. I'm hoping to get most of if not all the army printed over the week, however I think that the pièce de résistance of the army (an automata guard blown up by 400% to proxy as a giant) will probably take me over that time limit. Also your day 1 with a 3D printer video was a helpful resource when I was setting up to do my first print. Only thing I will say is that I unfortunately don't seem to get on with OPR's supports, I find them very finicky in ways I've not had with others. The main thing is I've found sometimes that the supports just don't come off well and occasionally take parts of the model with them, especially thinner more delicate parts. It's odd since I've not had this problem with anything else I've printed.
Have you tried the hot water removal technique? Helps a lot.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Yeah, thanks for the tip though. It might be a temp thing, I've used hot water which seems like it was just enough to get the supports off which may mean the breaks were from me exerting too much force when trying to remove them. I've had a better time using water straight from the boiling kettle, as it allows me to flex more delicate parts away from the supports, but that in turn may be making the model too weak, guess it's just going to take a bit of finnessing!
looks great. pretty cool stuff
You have multiple machines that you use for your 3D prints, I assume printing, cleaning and UV proving, exactly which do you have please. You essential equipment takes me to amazon but to an out of stock item right now so it would be nice to hunt around. Many thanks for the awesome videos, ideas and encouragement.
'If you enjoy getting pissed off at your laptop and your phone and your broadband, you'll love 3D printing.'
Ah god, I always procrastinate on my RPGs. We don't use minis, but I draw a lot of the NPCs in our games and do all the maps, and always find myself cramming up to the last minute. I really need to manage my time better.
Doing an entire Abyssal Dwarf Army for Kings of War....all 3d printed all handmade bases ala Geek and Gaming. The hardest part has by far been the printing with all the mishaps I've had and having to fix my printer. I'm still missing 3 large models because my Mono is too small for such big pieces and would take forever. The painting has been easy going...lots of air brush rattle cans and soon to be dry brushing followed by an oil wash....I hope it ends up looking decent!
Some lovely Notcrons for playing spacemallet 4Dk
That looks awesome!! I think I would have a hard time finishing a mini that nicely even if I had all the time I wanted! I totally understand the waiting last minute to do a project though. I decided to create a wizard tower the night before a DnD session and I essentially took a pringles can, cut out "rocks" from egg carton material (wonder where I got that idea from lol), glued the rocks and a few details and I painted it with the black paint mod podge base and a few hours before the game was about to start I only had time left to just quickly dry brush gray over the black. I also made a roof with individual wooden shingles. It was crazy but I was actually proud of what I accomplished. The tower does need a better paint job though!
heck yea i love these type of videos!!!
The best things I've gotten for my mono x was the Fulament flex plate and an NFEP.
Feels like an absolutely different machine
You should do this challenge again. A new army. 24 hours. OPR. Get hold of ARMYPAINTER new speedpaints. And have a 3 colour minimum. Maybe do it as 12 print and cure time. 24 hours to prime, paint AND base.
OPR is Amazing, I tried to get into Age of Sigmar with my gf after 13 Years of not playing Tabletop and the new Ruleset is Coplicated as hell.
I get that it's probably great if you are already invested and know what you are doing, but just for some casual rounds here and there it's a lot.
OPR can be learned in one day and they even offer a Point Calculator to make your of Weapons, Units and Spells and I love it.
I've been spending weeks designing my own Units, giving them names and making fancy Stat Cards for them.
Definitely an inspiring vid. Great job. Great point. Git er done!
Great vid as always, thanks!
considering that was such a whipshit project those turned out really nice. I wonder how many DMs don't even enjoy their games cause they are tired from working the night before though?.. that could be a whole video I think.
For stuff to stick better you can kick up the bottom exposure time, as you conclude, more lift height will probably help, especially for larger build volumes as more fep has more stretch before everything lets go.
If models dont build on your supports you are most likely under exposing or the temperature being too low for the resin to cure in the expected time.
Yeah, lift speed can cause a whole ton of issues. Since I reduced mine significantly (90 is crazy to me tho, mine is at 35. But then, I have a Gen1 Photon, the Mono X might be different in that regard), I barely have ANY failures at all any more, even on delicate bits and supports.
BTW, you could've probably fit another 6-8 models on that plate with a little bit of plate tetris.
enjoyed the video! great work as usual!!
Those are great!
You did an amazing job and don't have to be ashamed to put these on the table
Interesting video! Maybe I should bring back the "10 miniatures in one hour" painting challenge and see how far I have progressed in speed painting.
Nice work, I know in your place I'd probably end up with yet another half finished project in the pile 😁
Wish I had the money for a resin printer. There are so many cool artists out there I want to support and buy their STLs while being able to print out cool miniatures for my D&D games.
The printer itself is cheap when measured in cost of minis, dunno if that helps
Man, I feel like that intro really hit home haha. Why are you calling me out like that Jeremy!!
Watching the video while working on my battle sisters
2.5s layer time is... kinda short, specially for medium and large format printers. It makes sense if it's a Mono screen, but only on translucent resins.
I've had more luck in the 2.7-2.8 range on the same resin you're using.
Though I only do like 4-5 bottom layers at 35-38s, 55 seems like a lot; though that's not a big deal and highly depends on the printer.
1.8-2.5s layer time is absolutely possible with transparent or translucent ABS like resins, at least that's been my experience; if it's warm, cold resin makes things difficult.
Good luck!
Ideal exposure times vary significantly even between printers of the same brand because they're manufactured cheaply and tolerances deviate quite a lot. My original photon required about 16s exposure for the same resin that other people used 6s exposure. That said, I assume he was pretty underexposed for this print.
I think in general most people overexpose to avoid failures. I’ve found this resin on this printer to give the best detail around 2.5/2.6. I went through a bottle of zMUD beige and got best detail and no over exposure over 3 seconds.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial zMUD beige, that's people; right?
@@euansmith3699 SOYLENT RESIN IS PEOPLE!!!
I use a mono X and Siraya tech fast grey with 2 sec exposure and have very few failures which are mainly down to undersupporting
Great job man they look fantastic. 👏
Without time-pressure I doubt I'd ever get anything done! Learning that 'good enough' is good enough was also incredibly freeing.
Wouldn't it be great if Chitubox had an 'arrange on plate' function so you could set 1/8th of an inch gap and have it organise everything?
It has an “arrange” function that seems utterly useless 😄
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Oh yeah! Putting models off the plate is exceptionally useful. >.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who uses failed prints as kit bashing parts.
Looks good.
Again great stuff
Every time I see one of these "Weekend Army/1-Day Army" challenges, it increases my desire for a resin 3D Printer, XD. The ability to print off scores of minis at such a good quality really quick is amazing. I think they turned out great, definitely some stylish minis~
"Failure is always an option." - Adam Savage
If you're having trouble with the center of your plate for the mono x there are a few things you can try. I had a series of blunders for this printer as well.
1. You're Fep may be damaged, or its not tuned properly. If its the same one that came with the unit, its MOST Likely over-tightened, and cannot be tuned further. You'll have to buy a new fep. I've got recommendations if you need them,
2. Your plate isn't level, this one is a trick specifically because you may be doing an excellent job in the leveling process, however, you're not locking down the plate on the armature the same way if you've taken it off since then. You'll note that when you put the plate on and turn the knob, it may move slightly There are a few printed remedies for this as 'upgrades' to your machine.
3. You're resin isn't warm enough. Depending on what you're using, it may just be meh resin. I use Elego ABS like Grey or Siraya tech Navy Blue. Both good results.
-- Hapy to connect with you over discord if needed
I actually changed the FEP and haven’t had an issue with the center since. Don’t know if it’s the lift speed or that, but things are working better now regardless.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial lift speed / vroom settings do have an impact. I'm not sure if I'm just lucky or not. I've found the mono x to be very machine specific in terms of settings and... 'results'. Awesome to hear that yours are getting better! I look forward to. More content!
What was the last song that was playing? It almost sounded like A Real Hero by College & Electric Youth.
Highly recommended OPR's Grimdark future, it's awesome!
Do you have a kitbashing video for printed minis? If not would you want to make one?
I did a big kit bashed nurgle rat thing video with a 3D printed model as the base.
How durable are these resin minis? I worry that spears and thin limbs will be fragile and break on the slightest tumble.
what colors did you use for the models if you don't mind me asking i love the grimdark look you gave these with whatever that contrast yellowy green was.
Mostly plaguebearer flesh and nazdreg yellow.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial perfect thank you
I have a dumb question... Do you simply super glue the mini on a stick? I ask this because I've done that before and I often have terrible removing them later... At least not without snapping off a thin leg or joint or accidentally cutting off a toe. I'm just wondering if there's a glue that's easy to remove later but strong enough that I can flip the mini upside down without falling off the stick. I've tried poster tack and double sided tape as well, but they don't work any better.
I sometimes glue, but yea it can be sketch to remove. I mostly use double sided tape. In general I often glue to bases before paint just cause I can then attach the base to something with less worry.
Excellent work as always.
What did you use to mount your models to your stick while priming and painting?
Double sided tape
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Thank you, sir. Your channel is truly inspiring. It’s guided me down my own crafting journey these last few years. Thanks for all your work.
If you spray WD-40 Specialist Dry Lube With PTFE on a paper towel and coat the resin tray before adding the resin, it will stop the sticking. I had a few failed prints till I learned about that, now it only fails when I run out of resin, runing lift speed at 80 and never sticking. Also mix in 10-20% Siraya Tech Tenacious wiht the standard grey resin and models won't be so brittle.
I’m not convinced about the PTFE. There’s a lot of argument for it being snake oil or a bandaid, BUT I did order a bottler on Tenacious the other day to mix in.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial PTFE lube is recommended against by most manufacturers/professional printers. It's essentially the same material as the FEP anyway, it only lasts for a few prints, and can mix with and degrade resin properties. If prints are failing there is a different issue, and PTFE just adds another variable to go wrong.
Exactly. I know it can be a quick “fix” but I’d prefer to try and work out and correct the real problem.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial The amount I've used is very small, on a paper towel wiped on the bottom of the tray, doubt I'll ever use the entire can. I don't leave resin in the tray after my print has fininshed, it stopped the sticking that I was running into when I first started, never found any issues using it. The tenacious has made a huge diffrence though, I was running into swords snapping when removing the supports, went to a 50/50 mix and you can bend the weapons without breaking. Use a 10% for walls, floors and such but I go back to 50/50 for characters.
Something to try, use a pearl based white paint for the Zen highlights.
The luster beneath a transparent color wash has a neat effect that you hardly see other folks do.
Createx 5310 as a reference for a cheaper airbrush compatible paint.
Just wondering, do you do any sort of venting when you resin print? What is your venting setup?
Yea, I have a powerful extraction fan and a window to bring in fresh air.
I was wondering if you could answer a question, I've been doing all kinds of things with foam but what can I do to avoid the dust? It's very annoying specially on things like trees, grass, etc. Thank u so much for all these videos I love your channel!! 💪🏻💙
Get a mask and a shop vac and pray to your gods.
Unfortunately it just IS annoying and messy.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial thanks man!!
Ha! Just what I needed another reason to procrastinate. :P
Heyo , no doubt you probably tried it with yours but on my HalotOne printer i had issues with adhesion in the middle and after trying a bunch of suggestions it was the derpiest simplest thing, re-tension my FEP...... that solved it... though as an aid i also always wipe down the fep with PTFE dry lubricant spray whenever i drain the vat and clean everything, every little helps right? :) good fun stuff though man, those late night 'ooh i could just do XYZ' are the bane of my GM'ing existence.. but it keeps me on my toes!
I actually damaged then replaced my FEP and haven’t had the middle stick since.
One thing I've learned from being a procrastinator btw: For resin prints you can **absolutely** skip priming. Takes too long to dry and airbrushing on a basecoat of regular acrylic black/zenithal works just fine and is dry in minutes. Paint grabs on to resin prints very well because the surface isn't actually smooth but made up of tiny voxel cubes. As long as you seal the minis properly, priming is not at all needed.
You should... Well not really just a joke ofc.. Make an april fools video where you try to make a burrito in 10 minutes. Make the seasoning like the painting part while expressing the joy.
A friend of mine is painting 500 uruk hai in a week or two. Haha anyway nice video mate.
Wondering if your build plate might be concave, can you print something in the middle by itself?
Maybe print out a beam or something else running from one end of the build plate to the other to help troubleshoot the problem.
I thought that before, but I don’t think it’s the issue. It seems to be resolved now with a FEP change and slower lift speed.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Well that's good to hear, I look forward to seeing what you print next.