PUERTO ESCONDIDO THE XXL RIDES, BEATDOWNS AND MUTANT SWELL OF MAY 17th 2023 SLAB TOUR PT 7

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  • Опубліковано 18 тра 2023
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 722

  • @NathanFlorence
    @NathanFlorence  Рік тому +452

    The notorious puerto escondido! Seriously heavy water here, never disappoints, this day i had my worst puerto beat down to date, that left man it really smashed me 3 times i jumped off the bottom and 3 times smashed back to sand without air, i almost had a very bad two wave hold down! Then followed it up with that evil right haha!! Hope you guys enjoyed this change in style! Mixed the land and POV to bring the experience home! Let’s go subscribe if you havent hope ive earned it i want 500k subs!

    • @nahuelmendez1325
      @nahuelmendez1325 Рік тому +19

      I wonder how bad it could be if you didn´t take that one breath. I´m happy that you are allright Nate

    • @tonysmario817
      @tonysmario817 Рік тому +3

      i haven’t even watched the vid yet...just the caption photo is worth a pause...if you lived through the pounding it was worth it for that one image!
      i want a poster of that in my shop! Comittment with a capital C. one of the coolest surf images i’ve ever seen.

    • @AnimeDimension
      @AnimeDimension Рік тому +8

      Amazing job Bro! Really is a hard wave, the two camara was nice give a best idea of your felling in this situation and the time for survive 😎🤙🌊💥

    • @armandolandscape
      @armandolandscape Рік тому +2

      I thought you would die in the last wave 😱. Cheer up you are a pro

    • @peyo31
      @peyo31 Рік тому +3

      Keep uploading great content like you do and you’ll reach 1M before the end of the year!

  • @peyo31
    @peyo31 Рік тому +440

    Nate is a beast obviously. But what I really find impressive are all these guys in the line up that no one has never heard about, casually surfing 20+ foot waves at Puerto.

    • @wcc1212
      @wcc1212 Рік тому +12

      100%.
      How about Ivan and a local paddling @ a mile to make it into the harbor.
      That is serious work, man.

    • @boognish.
      @boognish. Рік тому +7

      Unknown chargers

    • @leonardofernandessurfing
      @leonardofernandessurfing Рік тому +9

      One of them was Greg Long

    • @GreenWaterCartel
      @GreenWaterCartel Рік тому +6

      Everyone involved have stones so big they can barely walk

    • @renko9067
      @renko9067 Рік тому +5

      Brilliant to alternate between beach and POV. Haven’t seen anyone else do it. Super cool

  • @edwardmitchell564
    @edwardmitchell564 Рік тому +151

    I live in Puerto….theres no way to overstate how heavy that wave at Zicatela is. When it fires like this the whole town shakes. Nate is a beast for taking those beatings. Mad respect…. Even one of those will make you seriously question you life choices.

    • @richardjones2006
      @richardjones2006 Рік тому +10

      Was there about 25 years ago, I will never forget the palm fronds rattling every time a big one hit he sand, or trying to duck dive a six footer in 18" of water. I did NOT got out on the big days,we saw a lot of broken boards, a few broken bones and the odd unlucky turtle beaten to death.

    • @batboy5023
      @batboy5023 Рік тому

      @@richardjones2006 you saw guys die out there?

    • @richardjones2006
      @richardjones2006 Рік тому +4

      @@batboy5023 No thank God, just beaten up by sand bars. No jet skis then but a lot fewer surfers also. Just the one hotel and some camp sites.

    • @batboy5023
      @batboy5023 Рік тому

      @@richardjones2006 oh ok I thought you meant “beaten to death” literally lol

    • @richardjones2006
      @richardjones2006 Рік тому +2

      @@batboy5023 Turtles really suffer trying to come ashore when the swell is up.

  • @PlaySA
    @PlaySA Рік тому +183

    Puerto, to me, is probably the scariest wave in the world. Yes it's not as big as some spots, yes it's not as slabby as some spots. But being a beachbreak it's so unpredictable, it closes out so often, there's no real channel to escape to, and it has so much power. Absolutely terrifying, that place could kill you very, very easily.

    • @Middlefinger696
      @Middlefinger696 Рік тому +11

      Scary as fuckall

    • @johnsavala8202
      @johnsavala8202 Рік тому +5

      @PlaySA That’s why they call it,
      The Mexican Pipeline.

    • @Middlefinger696
      @Middlefinger696 Рік тому +5

      @@johnsavala8202 we know that

    • @vidalj
      @vidalj Рік тому +17

      Like with other spots, you worry about the reefs. With puerto, you're straight up at risk of drowning. Absolutely terrifying.

    • @boogieheads
      @boogieheads Рік тому +1

      probably one of the biggest

  • @geoffreyl_
    @geoffreyl_ Рік тому +61

    Doesn't even matter that you didn't make one of those waves. This video had me standing on my feet the entire time. Can't believe you guys are crazy enough to do that. - Love it.

    • @tonysmario817
      @tonysmario817 Рік тому +2

      nate made the first right...a wave for his board. that left was hust too big to get into.

  • @DiegoChavezActon
    @DiegoChavezActon Рік тому +20

    Love this format with the POV and the beach cam back and forth. Never seen a combo like that before it looks sick Nate. Crazy waves!

  • @ac_cobra8540
    @ac_cobra8540 Рік тому +14

    It was a pleasure to meet you on the beach Nate. Seeing that session in person was something I'll never forget. Absolutely monstrous. In awe of you guys and what you put down in these conditions man.

  • @babypapaya8229
    @babypapaya8229 Рік тому +8

    Yo thank you! XL Puerto is the #1 most entertaining wave to watch surfed. All praises given to those that risk it all out there. ❤

  • @michaelchisholm5108
    @michaelchisholm5108 Рік тому +8

    That initial paddle out was intense. Loved the dual images at the beginning. Beach breaks are crazy but that place is insane. You remind me of me son. He is so active in the lineup. You are always paddling for position. I watched your Jamie podcast and he mentioned how active you are in the lineup. To the point of pissing off people lol. I remember a trip to Oahu with my family and my son and I went out at 3's. A south was going on so waves were like shoulder high. My son was like 14 at the time but working for position on every wave. The locals asked me to rein him in. So I had a talk with him about waiting his turn and not paddling out through the line up. We went on to have one of the most enjoyable day of surfing I can remember in my life. I started surfing in 1962 so you can imagine how much that day meant to me. Enjoy your videos keep up the good work.

  • @dunningkruger3774
    @dunningkruger3774 Рік тому +4

    Took some big ones on the head here 30 years ago. One "revelation" that came with modern photography was that our hold downs weren't as long as we thought they were. That beating Nate took, which he said was his worst one in a couple years, was 15 seconds. The fact that the next wave was on him in 17 seconds shows how tight the interval was that day. It also shows how time slows down when you're getting your ass kicked. In the 70's in Hawaii I thought..."I can hold my breath for two minutes...so I can handle anything". I was lucky to never take a two wave hold down, but I came super close many times just like Nate did right here. Lucky I never drown. Now that I'm past 65....this is a great reminder that we only have a small window to get it all done. As usual, great video Nate- I tell as many guys as I can to sub your channel-

  • @stephensimpson9626
    @stephensimpson9626 Рік тому +5

    ''worst beat down of my life....I almost drowned...I paddled back out...I don't know why...I just really want to get a good one''....Lol...you sir have an incredibly strong spirit. Top surfer and lekker down to earth all round nice guy. Love your surfing style, it shows your personality. Epic bravery!Blessings for you&yours.

  • @tonysmario817
    @tonysmario817 Рік тому +14

    wow. heavy session...not many rideable ones.
    you picked a perfect wave...you were in perfect position...and there was zero hesitation. even in the pov it looks like you’re making the wave!
    heroic effort so under gunned. ivan looked suitably humbled...and with the waves under his belt that says something about the conditions.
    glad you’re both in one piece...let the slab tour continue!

  • @soulfulwapechi
    @soulfulwapechi Рік тому +11

    Dude I love Puerto...but that energy is another level. You handled it as best as you could! You are a beast

  • @oliverschultz4345
    @oliverschultz4345 Рік тому +11

    Legendary and scary - maximum respect! Amazing combination of land and POV footage also! Thank you for sharing Nathan and crew!

  • @reddiver7293
    @reddiver7293 27 днів тому

    This spot is unique. Such sledgehammer lips on a beach break that really does not shift that much. As usual, Nathan Florence does not back down from the most insane, critical, pucker factor drops!

  • @Letsgo_ray
    @Letsgo_ray Рік тому +21

    Damn, i finish watching the whole video. As always the realist among the surf vids vlog out there. Just pure set production without gimmicky music, nature sounds, pure paddle in/out, wipe out highlights and sure surfer peasants like us can relate. Therefore i give like and donation for great entertainment. Keep it up sir 🤙

  • @macrovigilance
    @macrovigilance Рік тому +3

    When ur happy to be on the couch at home with a coffee and not worried about missing it! Brave boys I salute you.

  • @jourdandavis6473
    @jourdandavis6473 Рік тому +20

    The fact that you took that first beat down and didn’t even hesitate to go back out is insane

  • @filoginodosurfe946
    @filoginodosurfe946 Рік тому +21

    These raw videos are the best. They show how tough is out there. Big Puerto is not to everyone.

  • @raff23able
    @raff23able Рік тому +4

    Loved the raw sounds !! Really helped to connect to the footage … also very sweet hearing the concern in Zoards voice when Nate takes a heavy spill…. Beautiful beautiful work fellas …. absolutely SAVAGE session 🤯

  • @silviokochinski-mp4wk
    @silviokochinski-mp4wk Рік тому +2

    Iam big fan brasilian....you isso the Best surfer ..free surfer of world ...longlife nathan florence.

  • @adamstevens6299
    @adamstevens6299 9 місяців тому +1

    This reminds me of the surfing nightmares you get when just appear in surf way beyond your limits! I wake up! These guys are doing it for real!! 😮😮

  • @jamesbalster2662
    @jamesbalster2662 Рік тому +4

    The place will rearrange your body, i surfed there for a couple of weeks 40 plus years ago had a great time for a couple weeks until i wend for the inside barrel on a huge right. I spent two days in my hammock and a horrible flight back to L.A ex and then straight to the hospital. Had to wear a neck brace for a weelk or two. Still love the memories.

  • @stevenkleinhenz1017
    @stevenkleinhenz1017 Рік тому +1

    Surfed there in the 70’s before it was widely known! Dangerous shore break and always bring extra boards! Close outs break a lot of boards! Always beautiful weather!

  • @bartonfletcherpov
    @bartonfletcherpov Рік тому +3

    That left wipeout was sooo insane, a truly epic video to experience the raw power of the ocean at heaviest beach break in Mexico, outstanding!

  • @hunterdavis3003
    @hunterdavis3003 Рік тому +1

    Dude that’s the gnarliest video I’ve ever watched, if the Florence brothers say it’s gnarly it’s really f§!in gnarly

  • @MotorJeffries
    @MotorJeffries Рік тому +3

    The Zoard play-by-play is awesome. Keep it up!

  • @_aidan_b
    @_aidan_b Рік тому +11

    That wipeout at 19:15 is absolutely terrifying...jesus

    • @mackash
      @mackash Рік тому

      Yeah that was crazy

    • @smelltheglove2038
      @smelltheglove2038 Рік тому +2

      Looked like it bounced him right back up real quick but because it slammed so hard. This wave is something else.

  • @ole.strand
    @ole.strand Рік тому +4

    To everyone reading this! please like this comment if you appreciate the raw and authentic style this video had as much as I did.
    Showing the details of what goes into a surf in waters as heavy as this makes me appreciate it so much more.
    Not many channels show what happens after a wipeout like that. Everything from seeing how long he stayed under water, how he got back to shore and seeing that Nate had to push himself mentally paddle back out. These details make such a big difference for getting an accurate understanding of what goes into a session like this and how tough it can be, even for experienced surfers like Nate and Ivan.
    Much respect for allowing us to see both the good and the bad. Nate obviously didn’t feel like talking to the camera after those heavy beat downs, but still decided to include it in the video.
    Please continue this style for future videos guys 🙏🏼

  • @markoakley5573
    @markoakley5573 Рік тому +2

    Man this place is so intense. Such mental power. All with a GoPro in your mouth. Thanks Nate.

  • @nmorgado63
    @nmorgado63 Рік тому +9

    Never disapointing... What a session.

  • @rzadigi
    @rzadigi Рік тому +6

    That was so sick! I seriously felt like I was there and I started to freak out during the hold downs. There’s no way I’d have survived that! Thanks much for this sharing this very intense experience 🙏❤️much love and respect from Japan

  • @roberthamlin6638
    @roberthamlin6638 Рік тому +1

    That looks so inviting with all that brown foam in the water.

  • @jojomcgarry7038
    @jojomcgarry7038 Рік тому +4

    Amazing water and land videos of a truly terrifying session...i could feel the beach shaking with every set. So glad you guys are ok. Thanks for sharing your experience....👏👏👏

  • @marcjeudevine526
    @marcjeudevine526 Рік тому +2

    There's very few true waterman!!!
    Surfing all over the world
    The biggest and coldest days
    Nates in the club!!!!!

  • @hipsonsogbo
    @hipsonsogbo Рік тому +2

    One of the craziest big wave surfers on the planet

  • @seblivefloormanager
    @seblivefloormanager Рік тому

    As usual I watched with mouth agape. I would have drowned.
    I have to remember that you’re human, as you survive what would easily kill the majority of your viewers. Mr. Cool Ivan paddling a mile at the end, shows how sick the shorebreak had become. No channel, all sand bar, no escape, brutal close-outs turning yellow from dredging sand.
    Insanity, so compelling and beautiful in raw power.
    Love the POV and land footage mix.
    Thanks again Nate and team for this epic vid that im rewatching immediately 😂
    💫🤙🙌✨️

  • @tonysmario817
    @tonysmario817 Рік тому

    socalsurfer got a clip from enough distance to give that ‘air nathan’ wave some perspective!
    it’s one of the heaviest ever attempted at puert i think...nate never had a chance on that 7-5...what a brave try. what a perfect beast of a wave!!
    to have that one over on a 9 foot board...another potential ‘best left of your life’...the SLAB TOUR rocks.

  • @rickeykoga2312
    @rickeykoga2312 Рік тому +3

    This format is dope!!! You get a perfect idea of what is actually going on in the line-up and really puts the size into perspective 🤙🙌👏

  • @mackash
    @mackash Рік тому +7

    This is mental.

    • @BigPoppieSeed
      @BigPoppieSeed Рік тому +1

      Agreed...this is the exact reason that i am mentally challenged.

  • @procaliadventures
    @procaliadventures Рік тому

    Me and the other mexican guy!!! Nice try , you will conquer on the next swell my fellow warriors. Cary on!!!

  • @krustysurfer
    @krustysurfer Рік тому +1

    Absolutely savage!
    Absolute savagery!
    I counted 15 long seconds on the hold down Nate you are a champion!
    Aloha brother thanks for the perspective team Florence 🤙🔥🙌

  • @lesterma1608
    @lesterma1608 Рік тому +2

    Super in person big wave video, one of the best I’ve ever seen!!!! Great job Nathan!👏👏🤙🏽

  • @jerryk-wi9vl
    @jerryk-wi9vl Рік тому

    What I get from watching Nate’s vlogs is a calming affect for the barrels he rides with authority to mung dong paddle outs da bugga just rips 🤙🏼

  • @Brierton1
    @Brierton1 Рік тому +2

    I loved the editing on this video. Really made it fun to follow all of the rides

  • @scottv6726
    @scottv6726 Рік тому

    "Ironjaw" indeed! Get beat down, go back out, get beat down again, never lose the GoPro, awesome!

  • @joncameron3720
    @joncameron3720 Рік тому

    Proper massive stones.normal man would shiver at the thought.mortal men just go.Nathan and Ivan Florence are not normal.incredible footage.over and over again.you guys all rock bigtime.the best.ever.🦘💥🔥😉❤️

  • @truthseeker2222
    @truthseeker2222 Рік тому +2

    Love the dual shot format. Glad you made it out safe!

  • @djweeks_maui
    @djweeks_maui Рік тому +1

    Epic!! Mahalos for the footage!

  • @pascualsurfer1764
    @pascualsurfer1764 Рік тому

    I'm very happy to see Puerto one more time !
    Thank you for this video !

  • @kylebization
    @kylebization Рік тому

    I agree, the combo of POV and beach cam is awesome. Would love to see more like this!

  • @amoliina85
    @amoliina85 Рік тому +3

    This video solidifies what an athlete Nate is. Bendiciones y mucho respeto.

  • @imgmgo
    @imgmgo Рік тому +1

    I was so hyped for this video after seeing your clips on Instagram. Excellent footage and crazy sends, keep it up man you’re the best free surfer in the world!

  • @xtcnme
    @xtcnme Рік тому

    It is great having the picture in picture perspective....much better idea of what you are experiencing.

  • @MrLeeson660
    @MrLeeson660 Рік тому +1

    Hands down the best surf vid I've ever seen. Lost for words man. You guys are absolute monsters and to see you get destroyed is crazy and insane to watch. Blown away by that vid

    • @marco_s3025
      @marco_s3025 Рік тому

      Agreed.Well said. Its an iconic session.

  • @bernabemestanza3640
    @bernabemestanza3640 Рік тому +1

    That session was full Puerto on a good one, Nathan and Ivan your not only blessed. But hella gnarly. Respect, great episode

  • @catcomputes
    @catcomputes Рік тому +1

    even that duck dive in the beginning under that massive set wave was insane lol. watching this upset my stomach ahaha, absolutely gnarly.

  • @sharktooth64
    @sharktooth64 10 місяців тому

    Zicatela is so heavy when its 20 plus,,I got severely pounded there when it was half that size! Respect for you and your crew!! Insane vid. Nathan...and you never lost your GoPro!!

  • @tuttlespeachtree3413
    @tuttlespeachtree3413 Рік тому +3

    Insane editing...maybe my favorite video yet from you Nate!

  • @simoncossettini9680
    @simoncossettini9680 Рік тому

    many thanks - first wave was short but sweet - top video the cam and shore footage really tells whole story... been in similar situation but in much, much smaller waves .

  • @levirys344
    @levirys344 Рік тому

    Greetings brother, I greet you from Puerto Escondido, it is great that you have come to try these beautiful waves

  • @Juanmanuely2022
    @Juanmanuely2022 Рік тому

    Great, great footage. I felt scared just watching. Glad you made it! Great great content

  • @toddhopkins1081
    @toddhopkins1081 Рік тому +1

    Nate you came back so strong from the injury it shows! Holy crap I was tripping watching this!

  • @ryanlowe988
    @ryanlowe988 Рік тому

    This was one of the highest anxiety videos Nathan has put out. I dont know why this place just stresses me out.

  • @joeblow2183
    @joeblow2183 Рік тому

    What a great video. It conveys so much!

  • @Punt_tv
    @Punt_tv Рік тому

    That was so heavy. The fact that you paddled back out nate, your a mad man. Change the channel name to mad men. This is nuts. Laying in bed having a panic attack and the guys laughing on the beach after the heaviest beating ever !
    We love it 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻💪🏼

  • @garthtagge3526
    @garthtagge3526 Рік тому

    That was the most fun surf video Ive seen in awhile!!

  • @patrickkeiser2673
    @patrickkeiser2673 Рік тому +1

    Very heavy and gnarly. Salute. Blessings.

  • @expeditionbasset
    @expeditionbasset Рік тому +1

    Sometimes we penetrate the ocean, sometimes the ocean penetrates us...
    Great work not dying Nathan looks like such heavy conditions

  • @greentubes1
    @greentubes1 Рік тому

    "That was gnarly." - Nate's Understatement of the Year

  • @YNDog
    @YNDog Рік тому +2

    Your a real life wave warrior bro.. on another level 🤙🏾🤙🏾.. historical .. we gotta give you flowers while we witness this shit live🤙🏾

  • @angelicguidance444
    @angelicguidance444 Рік тому

    Yewww! The gnar gnar swell 🙌🏼🤙🏼🇲🇽

  • @hawaiianpunchoner
    @hawaiianpunchoner Рік тому +1

    Nathan is an absolute LEGEND 🔥🔥🔥🔥

  • @user-hs5ni1jl8m
    @user-hs5ni1jl8m Рік тому

    AMAZING !! BEAST MOOD !

  • @bruceking2574
    @bruceking2574 Рік тому +1

    I hope you are good on all your shots and then some! Holy Poop! You are amazing and a true dedicated surfing wizard!! Love the videos. I surfed there in the mid 70's but nothing like this. Not even close.

  • @suthernbandit6282
    @suthernbandit6282 Рік тому

    Memecoin season hitting so hard that $Pepe catches a cameo mention in the Escondido footage! Love it.

  • @thegreatestadvice88
    @thegreatestadvice88 Рік тому

    Nate you and Zord deserve over a million subscribers.

  • @JamesHunterRoss
    @JamesHunterRoss Рік тому

    Everybody in the water is CRAZY! They are in the water with a gnarly, out of control beast. This whole video makes me so tense; I really had to pause to let myself breath and de-stress. People could die, for sure, it's crazy.

  • @chrisnizer5702
    @chrisnizer5702 7 місяців тому

    My mate's and I would paddle wayyy outside on big days, aim for the horizon, then slowly drift back in to the first peak. But I couldn't imagine paddling out in the middle of those liquid avalanches. Thanks for another great video and be safe, Semper Fidelis!

  • @justintindel9271
    @justintindel9271 Рік тому

    Elite mind, Body, Skill, and Soul. Thanks for sharing this one with us brotha :) Wife and I were trippin watchin this!

  • @Bryan-jd7os
    @Bryan-jd7os Рік тому +1

    F@#king terrifying!! I cant even imagine. You guys are nuts! 👍😀 HEAVY, HEAVY WATER. Glad you and Ivan made it out alive

  • @marinatinseattle
    @marinatinseattle Рік тому

    Best edit to date. Frame n frame is super legit. Been wanting to see this perspective for a while. Stellar work my dudes.

  • @mosfran
    @mosfran Рік тому

    Showing both points of view is just perfect. Please keep on that way

  • @kadynwebster3211
    @kadynwebster3211 Рік тому

    Music is cool with surf clips, but nothing compares to the raw energy of everyone frothing on the beach to the surf. Such a sick vid.

  • @OUSurf2
    @OUSurf2 Рік тому

    Y'all r crazy but it makes for incredible footage. Thank you and much respect stay safe out there

  • @Oliver1997Physics
    @Oliver1997Physics Рік тому

    Wow what a great video💪!!. This is XXL surf! The crest of some waves needs for falling down on the surface of Water 1,1 secundes. With the free fall formula (h=0,5*g*t^2) you get h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,1s)^2= 5,9m (19,4ft). So the waves are 20 ft. maybe there are so series over....

  • @zking407
    @zking407 Рік тому

    Followed you for a minute but now I am a subscriber to your UA-cam.
    You always send it Nate and I have mad respect for that🤙

  • @vajradev
    @vajradev Рік тому

    Been there done that back in the 70's, excellent vid guys, Nathan props man place is just brutal !

  • @mkb1232
    @mkb1232 Рік тому

    Epic video, love the new format

  • @mikez4811
    @mikez4811 Рік тому

    Craziest surf video I think I have ever seen. I'd be afraid to sit on the beach and see that live. You are Loco for sure

  • @clemdominguez3654
    @clemdominguez3654 Рік тому

    Just Epic!

  • @kingleunitas5920
    @kingleunitas5920 Рік тому +1

    This place is so unpredictable when it gets this big! Crazy footage Nate!

  • @rpcorp
    @rpcorp Рік тому +1

    Definitely one of the heaviest videos! Glad everyone made it in safe

  • @pcarrenom1234
    @pcarrenom1234 Рік тому

    That’s life! Much respect! Doesn’t matter what happen inside there the fact of just being in the ocean with those waves is amazing ! Just for warriors

  • @surfingwithpablo
    @surfingwithpablo Рік тому

    Scary stuff. Glad you are alive -- 🏄🏻‍♂hank 🤙🏼ou for the content as always

  • @vitopasquu1883
    @vitopasquu1883 Рік тому

    Tremendous waves, wow😮

  • @hyoholdyourown6444
    @hyoholdyourown6444 Рік тому

    Holy crap!!! Nate!!! Beast Mode.... ENGAGED!!!!! Love the content!!!!

  • @maxmonterumisi
    @maxmonterumisi Рік тому

    Heavy !!! Super heavy

  • @julienp8054
    @julienp8054 Рік тому

    Great video mate and thanks for not loosing the Gopro to show us this crazy footage. We really feel in immersion with you! Well done!

  • @Lotus-Son
    @Lotus-Son Рік тому +3

    Props to the camera shots between the on-beach and the GoPro and that finesse in editing.
    Perfectly captured that awe and fear of seeing the amount of white water from the back of exploding huge waves while paddling out on such a big day, and that sinking-stomach feel of potentially getting caught inside.
    Each camera in isolation doesn’t convey how heavy it is to the average viewer, but with masterful editing you guys did it so well.