6 essentials you need to build a project car that are not tools. 1. Spare Time 2. Extra Money 3. Understanding Wife 4. Place to work on and store car. 5. Luck finding difficult to get parts. 6. Friends that can help.
Whoever said torches have no place in a shop can come be my apprentice for a week. I’m in Ottawa,Ontario, Canada. Where the salt gods try ever winter to reclaim our cars. I use torches everyday!!! To do many different jobs.
When I have to do something that I have no experience with I go to you tube and watch several how to videos. Some are better than others so I watch as many as I can. before I start work. When I was working on a tilt column most videos told me I needed a special tool to disassemble the column. One guy showed me how to do it without buying a special tool. Now when I show someone the trick they think I'm a genius.
From a "What tools do I use most often when I go work in the ship" approach; 1- A good mechanics tool set including screw drivers (Klein being "un-touchable"), punches, pliers, rulers, square, CLAMPS (can never have too many sizes or types). Your basic mechanics tools keep growing with every project. Whenever you need a tool, buy a good one and "be done". 2- A good drill motor and drill bits. Used most every time I enter the garage. 3-The other tool that gets used almost every time work happens in the garage is the "AIR COMPRESSOR". Obviously, another of those "investment" additions to your shop. Depending on "available funds", either "scale up as needed" or buy a "permanent" one right off. 4- Any amount of "fab" work almost always involves the drill press. Mine happens to be a older, cheaper "Japanese" version. I almost never change the speed. It's more about getting the holes in the exact place, perfectly square with the material, and controlling the drill pressure. I think a good drill press vise is very important. 5- Like Matt said, a tap and dye set gets used more than you would think. Obviously, the more sizes, the better including pipe thread sizes. These frequently develop over time. A good quality kit is a good investment. With proper use and care, they last quite a long time. Don't forget to invest in "bottom" taps for threaded holes that don't go through the material. All this from a lifelong "tradesman" history from a kid watching/helping my Dad to entering the trades in 1960. Thanks for the great channel guys. Lots of great input here. Even for "Dinosaur's" like myself !!!
Top 5: a hammer, a bigger hammer, a really bigger hammer, the biggest hammer available and a crying towel, preferably an Irontrap Garage xxl black t shirt! As always Matt good job, hard to limit any work area to 5 tools, that's why we never own a garage that's big enough!
Just wanted to comment that every fuse box has 220v input and it is split into 110v for household use. Any electrician can wire you a 220v output for very little money. Good video Matt.
i agree - my box is right next to the entry way from the driveway, which is a perfect spot for a 220V outlet - you can then weld outside, in the doorway, or somewhere in the middle of the shop. It will take heavier gauge conduit than normal house wire, but if you're able to drop a couple of feet from the breaker box, you're not looking at a huge expense. My 220V outlet and breaker was an additional $50 on a $200 job I had the Electrician in to do. I provided the breaker and outlet.
Great video Matt. Just a word on Taps and Dies. ALWAYS buy High Speed Steel taps and dies. That is what is meant by a "Quality" set. It doesn't matter as much who makes them, but make sure they say HSS on them. They should be shiny, almost polished looking on the cutting edges and may be black or grey in the flutes. If they are a mat grey or silver on the cutting edges, pass on them, they are at best High Carbon Steel. You may get by with cleaning out previously threaded parts with carbon steel, but they won't last long enough to tap 3 holes and then they will break and you will be trying to dig a broken tap out, and it will be too hard to drill. Skip the Erwin and Harbor Fright when it comes to metal cutting tools. The same goes for drill bits. And for god sakes, use SOME kind of oil any time you use thread cutting tools. Take it from a machinist of 40+ years. Don't skimp on Drills, Taps, and Dies.
Agree on the advice in general. Do NOT buy crap taps or dies. You're wasting your money if you do! One thing I disagree on is with the statement on who makes them. Yes, even though you may find the "HSS" marking on them, that doesn't make them good. There are plenty of imports that are crap in spite of them being HSS so buyer beware. It has always been that way through the decades. Do buy quality which is why I've been prone to going with American made though in the past, you could find quality coming out of Germany or Italy. Sorry, but as I'm retired, I cannot account for levels of quality on new tools these days and I cannot recall buying any drill bit, tap or die since the 1990s. As for the actual use of taps & dies... do NOT just use "some kind of oil". Use a cutting fluid - especially one made for taps & dies. Yes, there's a difference between oils and cutting fluids and for the love of God, do NOT use WD-40. That stuff was never meant to be used as such and most people succeed in doing nothing but burning the hell out of their bits while creating hot spots which leads to micro-fracturing and failure. There are plenty of name brand cutting fluids such as Tap Magic that are vastly superior to any regular oil so go that way and save your tooling. Lastly, if you do break off a tap and cannot remove it by hand, if you're talented you can always cut them out using solid carbide tooling if you have it. HSS doesn't hold a candle in the face of carbide. Happy 4th 2023!
Moon is trying to be noticed in the background ! love that dog. Fortunately, I got my Dads old hammers. Great information Matt, I would also recommend a drill press and a band saw
Very good point on the angle grinder. 20 years ago, I bought a HF angle grinder. Got home with it and went to work on my wife's 1953 Chevy 5 window pickup. The grinder lasted 15 minutes and the brushes burned out along with the switch. Threw it in the trash and went down to Ace Hardware and bought a Makita. Still have the corded Makita and it still handles what I throw at it. I have my dad's ball peen hammers, assorted sockets and a few other tools that go back to the late 40s. A lot of his tools came up missing just before he passed.
Funny.....havent used a torch now in 10 years in building lots of rods. 😂 we dont bend steering rods,drag links or shock mounts. Al fab work. Well maybe used the torch on the neighbors snowplow when i was lazy a few winters ago 🤣🤣Map has is your friend on heating for getting bolts out and pre heat before welding
@@docholiday1034 I agree map gas is good too I usually hand the kids at work that instead of my torch because inexperienced people can cause damage with them too but nothing beats a smoke wrench when things get tough.
Finney Metalart first 25 years in fab work used nothing but....🤣 older wiser and have 2 shops...torches are gone never to be seen again. I think if your doing art work or forging they are great. Automotive field? No real need if you have fab skills,welding skills and a cheap plasma cutter. Torches do more damage than good with unskilled users..👍👍👍
Mark Nowicki I took my old spare laptop that still works for web browsing and moved it down to the garage. It’s awesome to have Internet access right at your hands when you need to look something up or order a part. Of course I also have a smartphone but for a lot of things it’s still preferable to look them up on a normal computer. And having a computer down in the garage means I can avoid making a trip back inside the house and losing track of time for an hour in the middle of a project. 😂
Got all the above tools, one other tool I use the heck out of is a Dremel now they make the good quick change wheels it's even better , torch is a must my neighbor gave me his, had it rebuild and new gauges, have gotten larger tanks from yard sales along side the road payed every little for them , drill bits are the hardest thing, got lots of them, have been teaching myself how to sharpen them on a grinder , and last, the tools I find on the road!! I carry a sign that says "Will Brake For Tools"!! keep up the great work Matt love this channel
1: Three 4.5" grinders (I like my porter cable it's cheep enough to have the trifecta set up) Flapper disc, hard stone grinder, and cut off wheel. Saves you time & frustration in changing discs, and saves on the grinder because it's not doing it all. 2: Plasma Cutter (as long as the lights are on, your in business) 3: Multiprocessor Welder (I really like my Titanium Unlimited 200) The Mig/Tig/Stick. I can do it all with one.... even though 99% of the time it's always Mig and always 220v. Mig is easy to learn, and IMHO its the best to get started on, because it gets you started. 4: 5hp Air Compressor (go big, once and done) I usually go cheap and build big, but I didn't skimp on this one. In fact I'm in the process now of getting another one (probably a cheaper one) and linking it to get more volume for a tire machine and heavy paint work. 5: 1/2" & 3/8" battery impacts and a 3/8" battery ratchet (no air hoses in tight spots) 6: every week stop into HF Tools, and buy something. (seriously, if you are just starting out, don't be ashamed of HF Tools. I use a lot of them daily as a heavy equipment mechanic, and they hold up. when they break I up-grade or do the easy in store warranty.) * torch - I use the plasma for most everything, but a torch is very much needed. I like the "kangaroo pack" torches. Because when I need it, it's easy to grab it and go with it. The bottles are small so they don't last long, but it makes up for it in portability.
Look at Eastwood when they run their scratch and dent sale. My son picked up a brand new Eastwood combo welder (mig, tig, and stick) for almost half the price of a new one. He did the same thing with a bench top drill press. I think he got that from Harbor Freight.
been using my oxy acceletine torch since 1970 in Vietnam. Started restoring a car this year and learned how essential the MIG setup was. You can do so much with the little heat and it is so much quicker. My neighbor had a small Mig that I would use in a tough spot. Example welding a corner on the lower quarter panel of the car with the torch when the heat made a 6 inch diameter chunk of body puddy over braising (that I was unaware of) fall off the car. I was sick and ordered a Mig that day. It seems a 57 yr old old car may of had a lot of repairs done to it thru the years that you may not notice till your up to your ass in alligators.
Some very good comments here, I couldn't disc the first one. I have found that you can find a good deal on much of this at auctions, never know what you might find until you are standing there with little cash, jawing back and forth. No. 1 don't let your bones get to old before you start and when you find yourself old like me try to stay active, cause when you lose it most times it's not going to come back. You younger guys have some good ideas to pass along to us old Farts ! Freddie out ! Georgia boy !
Vice(S), bench grinder and LOTS of clamps. Many outlets for power and a wide area to plug in your air hoses. High speed grinder/cut off wheels. Angle drill.
Tap and dies as you mentioned are a must. I buy used odd lots all the time. Those old worn taps and dies are great for chasing threads. I have a high quality set in a case I use for making new threads.
Thanks ! I was repairing rear quarters on a whole bunch of cars back in the early 80's, the only thing that I want to add to your basic list is an electric sheet metal shear . Essential for cutting out shapes... There's nothing like building rear quarters for a '67 Fleetwood... And then witnessing the cars demise. Tie rods wear out , fall out, and fire hydrants don't step out of the way...😂
i like the swamp cooler in the window of the ride behind you. talk about vintage ac, they work pretty good as long as the humidity isn't too high. i agree with your list. it's hard to build a custom anything without the tools on it. i would add a good drill and quality bits. there's always a need for a hole to be made, or a broken bolt to be removed.
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I have a set of Harbor Fright body tools and they work OK except like you said if your pound on welds, but you can do a little grinding first to knock down the high spots. Helps maintaining the finish on the head.
Everything Matt mentioned is spot on correct. Also, clamps, Jack stands, levels, measuring tapes, folding rulers, vise grips and anvils. Just stay away from cheap ass harbor freight and the like tools. Spend some money, hunt them down and make stuff you need. Your welder and metal you collect up will improve your skills and let you create what you don't have.👍🍺
Over the last 50 years the best metal worker/bodyman I worked with was Charlie Jones, used oxy/acetylene torch and coathangers along with dollys & bodyhammers he had most since the 40s he did alot of restoration he would take panels that looked like swiss cheese and save them. He had a 32,33,&36 Fords and a stash of flathead performance parts that disappeared when he passed away.
Thank you for the tips on tools to start working on old vehicles ! Take care , stay safe and healthy wherever your next adventure or research takes you ! Doing well here in Kansas .
Good question Matt. #1 quality tool set both sae and metric #2 air compressor and air tools #3 a solid working surface #4 friends who have tools that you can't afford ie lathes, milling machines specialized metal working tools #5 time and patience for quality repairs you need to take the time to do the job right.
. My first Rod project tools: Basic hand took set, Hacksaw, Inexpensive disk grinder, AC Buzz box, Bench grinder and Measuring tools, Non-tool: A damn good friend!
Several BIG FIRE EXTINGUISHERS, Eye protection, Ear protection. Have set rags, my insulated shirt while wearing it and a a solvent tank on fire while grinding. As an ex aircraft mechanic, all my power tools except for a few are AIR POWERED. Haven't seen an electric rivet gun / air hammer. A little oil at the start of the day, they run all day, don't get hot, usually lighter and much higher quality than electric stuff. I buy mine on EBAY. I have bought $600 straight / ninety degree grinders for as little as $80.00 new in the box. I love my air drills too, many sizes and RPM out there. Many will turn 20,000 RPM + so be careful what you put on them. I got tired of changing blades etc. so I have about a dozen with different accessories on them. Brands I like are, DOTCO, MASTER POWER, JIFFEY. ROCKWELL,. There are many more that are good too. just have to watch for them. Look at condition and you can tell how worn they are if they are beat up, smooth from handling etc. I have 10 HP (220V, Single Phase) compressors to run my blasting cabinets and will run air tools all day long. Most people don't realize their house has a 220V power plug for electric ranges / electric dryers. You can plug in a welder there. If your fuse box is in your garage get a 220 plug installed next to it for a welder / air compressor. Usually add another breaker and short wires. I'm CHEAP, I admit it. But that how I got tons of tools and a shop. Love your videos, Take Care! ,Mike
Hey Matt, as always, another great video, I totally agree with your top 5 tools, I've probably been fabricating & machining for 40+ years, I still learn something new every day(some thru your videos). I've always bought Milwaukee grinders & drill motors, when they were made here in the United States they were almost indestructible, there used to be a Milwaukee repair center here in Auburn Hills Michigan, but when they started being built overseas the quality tanked. Anyway keep up the great work, keep the "how to" video's coming...be safe!
I have 100's of tools and NEVER have enough. No matter what, you need something else. I have 6 roll boxes, 5 top boxes, 2 machinist's, 6 horizonal file cabinets and at least 6 regular file cabinets and walls lined with shelves with tools, material, parts. Nuts, bolts etc. I'm still collecting tools. I want to build Bead roller, English wheel, Shrinker / Stretcher. Have a 26' four post lift for 20 years I haven't got installed yet. Love to get a paint booth, may never happen. It's a NEVER ENDING Circus. 5 tools don't even stir the dust in a shop.
I’m one of those people who got years of use (abuse really) out of a $15 Chicago Electric corded grinder from Harbor Freight. It finally died and I decided to “upgrade” to a $35 Bauer unit. Works pretty well but like you said that bearing noise is just awful. It’s just as loud and grating as the $15 one. Between the grinder and my grossly undersized 20gal compressor that has to refill constantly, I’m pretty sure my neighbors hate me 😂 As far as body hammers I bought Martin and they’re pretty nice, but after after trying the Snap-On hammers those are definitely my preference. The balance is spot on and the heads have a good shape from new. The heads on my Martin hammers came way too flat and needed a lot of finishing... I don’t know if they’re not quite as good as they used to be or if I just got a few bad ones. They were recommended to me by a master panelbeater about 20 years ago. Most experienced people I’ve talked to more recently prefer Snap-On, but brand new ones are really pricey. If you’re on a budget you can buy Martin or even Napa hammers, and so long as you can properly finish / re-shape the heads yourself they make a perfectly decent hammer.
An electric finger sander/power file is really useful. I bought one a year or so ago and I use it daily - I’d be lost with out it now. It’s ideal for dressing welds down when you’ve butted panels together 👍🏻
Good list of tools to have. The tap and Die set was a surprise but I totally agree and now see the need to organize mine better for easy use. A gas torch is essential for sure. When you get that first angle grinder you find that having 3 or 4 more is so efficient so each one can be different head tools on them. I’m also a hunter of vintage body hammers and have found a few in antique malls for reasonable cost since they are not traditional antiques and many times not priced too high. I prefer the old hammers to new ones. BTW, thanks again for the ITG15 discount code. I just used it to finally add an Eastwood Plasma Cutter to my tool line up.
I have two 4-1/2" grinders so I can have two different setups. I also remove the gaurd so I can run 6" cut off wheels on the 4-1/2" grinder. Just keep your fingers out of the way! Snap On body tools are nice and have great balance and feel. Don't buy cheap sets as it might make you never take up metal working! They are that bad. Your suggestions are all great. 220 welders have a much more stable arc and can do light material as well as heavy.
As far as equipment I think an air compressor would be in the top 10. You hit the nail on the head when you recommended quality torch set. I have a Smith set that is 50 years old and I can still get parts for it, just had the oxygen regulator rebuilt for it and they had no problems as far as I know.
I have many good grinders. I just found a two pack of majors 4-1/2” grinders. Corded. It was clearance at Home Depot for $59. Just giving everybody a a place to look and what to look for. Your big box hardware stores will have good deals on the clearance rack every now and again.
The HF grinders are great if you get them on sale. I usually get a couple at a time and when they break toss it and go on to the next one. I bought a Dewalt cordless months ago and use it every weekend. HF are for a back up or if a friend needs to borrow one.
I have a 110v Hobart welder that claims it can weld up to a quarter inch. I'm building my first hot rod and a friend recommended that machine bc he has the same machine and he never had a problem. (He's built a lot of cars) I have used it for 1/4 inch without popping a breaker and it seems to work fine as long as the central air isn't on. It looks like the metal is melting together and I bevel any corners that don't already have a 45* gap on both pieces already, but should I be worried about penetration!?!
Matt I just placed an Eastwood order for some stuff, one of which was sku 31198, how bad does that set suck? (7pc Body tool set) Now lets talk about that car swamp cooler on that ford, is that new?
Gosh, I guess I'd list wrenches. I know, maybe that goes without saying, but there are special wrenches for frozen bolts, impact wrenches for example and some I've seen but cannot name that use a hammer to crack the bolt looser. Oh and compressed air, another big need, speaking of impact wrenches. One note regarding oxy-acetylene: A torch is totally portable. My garage has only a very weak 110VAC power source, which makes MIG and TIG very expensive because of the electrical work needed to run the power from my service out to my garage. I bought a torch for now until I can afford to fix my power problem.
I use cheap, thin riggers gloves for everything. Far better feel. Though if doing serious welding proper welding gloves are required. Also for any welding wear long sleeve cotton attire. The radiation will give you bad burns. Like sun burn. Ask me how I know!!
Call electrician and have a 240 breaker and outlets installed in your shop or garage for the multi process welders most have a built in inverter however 240 is the way to go
Got That , Now to find Someone to help create things with 45 yrs of Picking up those old pieces , Too Create those 1Off's . Stay Safe sell it All !!!!!!!!
Personal Protective Equipment It does not matter if you have the right tools if you loose your eye sight, hearing, lung function or a limb. Use safety gear. Keep guards on the grinder; could be the difference from an inconvenience to a life changing hospital visit. Mask, gloves and aprons when welding to protect from long term exposure.
number one is money. dont get stuck like me. a 16 year old with a rusty flathead 6 early 30's studebaker that barely drives, and hardly any money to afford a two barrel manifold.
On the grinders,. Add a zirc fitting to the bevel gear housing,. The cheep grinders have almost no Grease in the head. Stay away from cheep body hammers they are way to hard and usually the. Bevel is way off...
I think that you must have something like a porta- power or a monkey on a stick ( all that is, is a tension jack that can push or pull but it does a great job holding as well ) . i think you also need a decent oil filled ( not an oliless one ) You don't have to get a huge one but, if you could you should get one that our shop can un. if you dont have 220 then get the biggest 110 compressor. There s always tires that need aired up. Finally a decent floor jack and stands.
Why did you switch from Dewalt to Milwaukee? I've seen Milwaukee promoted by several channels I follow lately and I really want to like Milwaukee but Dewalt batteries are more powerful. Dewalt flexvolt battery system offers 20V, 60V, and 120v while Milwaukee only offers 18v batteries.
I came across that 1936 Chevy that sold at the auction for $5500. For sale in Paradise Pa. at Paradise motors for $10995. Just a little tit bid found it on Market Place.
Don't forget the other tool you need a big garage to hold all your tools because the garage gets smaller with some more tools you acquire that's what I need a bigger garage
Has anyone used Propylene instead of acetylene? I know it’s a lot cheaper and lasts longer than acetylene, and since I’m on an extremely tight budget, I’ve thinking about going with an oxy-propylene setup.
Oxy-fuel alone is worth it's weight in gold just to get rusted/stuck bolts out, MAP and Propane torches don't put out enough heat fast enough for differential heating.
6 essentials you need to build a project car that are not tools.
1. Spare Time
2. Extra Money
3. Understanding Wife
4. Place to work on and store car.
5. Luck finding difficult to get parts.
6. Friends that can help.
perfect
Understanding wife is top on my list then comes all you’ve said 👌
And a very strong desire to Build
Probably my #1 is a good quality set of drill bits.
My father was a body man in the 40s and 50s. I have his dollies and hammers. I also have a nice selection of body files.
A good Air Compressor , Floor jack and Quality jack stands, And the NUMBER ONE THE REFRIGERAITOR .
Dave lewis Well stocked with ice cold beverages... and pizza delivery on speed dial!
Whoever said torches have no place in a shop can come be my apprentice for a week. I’m in Ottawa,Ontario, Canada. Where the salt gods try ever winter to reclaim our cars. I use torches everyday!!! To do many different jobs.
Torch Wrench! Old Term, Old school Lingo!😁😉
The number one requirement is a good mentor. The best tools in the world are worthless if you don't know how to use them properly.
When I have to do something that I have no experience with I go to you tube and watch several how to videos. Some are better than others so I watch as many as I can. before I start work.
When I was working on a tilt column most videos told me I needed a special tool to disassemble the column. One guy showed me how to do it without buying a special tool. Now when I show someone the trick they think I'm a genius.
I have a mentor with years of experience really helps to bounce ideas off
Very true. But for those us us without one, there’s the ITG UA-cam channel!
Gene Winfield , Lasse and others have workshops. Well worth the money.
Brian Temple of Brian
From a "What tools do I use most often when I go work in the ship" approach;
1- A good mechanics tool set including screw drivers (Klein being "un-touchable"), punches, pliers, rulers, square, CLAMPS (can never have too many sizes or types). Your basic mechanics tools keep growing with every project. Whenever you need a tool, buy a good one and "be done".
2- A good drill motor and drill bits. Used most every time I enter the garage.
3-The other tool that gets used almost every time work happens in the garage is the "AIR COMPRESSOR". Obviously, another of those "investment" additions
to your shop. Depending on "available funds", either "scale up as needed" or buy a "permanent" one right off.
4- Any amount of "fab" work almost always involves the drill press. Mine happens to be a older, cheaper "Japanese" version. I almost never change the
speed. It's more about getting the holes in the exact place, perfectly square with the material, and controlling the drill pressure. I think a good drill press
vise is very important.
5- Like Matt said, a tap and dye set gets used more than you would think. Obviously, the more sizes, the better including pipe thread sizes. These frequently
develop over time. A good quality kit is a good investment. With proper use and care, they last quite a long time. Don't forget to invest in "bottom" taps for
threaded holes that don't go through the material.
All this from a lifelong "tradesman" history from a kid watching/helping my Dad to entering the trades in 1960.
Thanks for the great channel guys. Lots of great input here. Even for "Dinosaur's" like myself !!!
TAP&DIE set!
Top 5: a hammer, a bigger hammer, a really bigger hammer, the biggest hammer available and a crying towel, preferably an Irontrap Garage xxl black t shirt! As always Matt good job, hard to limit any work area to 5 tools, that's why we never own a garage that's big enough!
Good advice, your dead on with the taps & dies, I always chase old thread before reassembly, along with never seize.
Just wanted to comment that every fuse box has 220v input and it is split into 110v for household use. Any electrician can wire you a 220v output for very little money. Good video Matt.
i agree - my box is right next to the entry way from the driveway, which is a perfect spot for a 220V outlet - you can then weld outside, in the doorway, or somewhere in the middle of the shop. It will take heavier gauge conduit than normal house wire, but if you're able to drop a couple of feet from the breaker box, you're not looking at a huge expense. My 220V outlet and breaker was an additional $50 on a $200 job I had the Electrician in to do. I provided the breaker and outlet.
Great video Matt.
Just a word on Taps and Dies.
ALWAYS buy High Speed Steel taps and dies. That is what is meant by a "Quality" set.
It doesn't matter as much who makes them, but make sure they say HSS on them. They should be shiny, almost polished looking on the cutting edges and may be black or grey in the flutes. If they are a mat grey or silver on the cutting edges, pass on them, they are at best High Carbon Steel.
You may get by with cleaning out previously threaded parts with carbon steel, but they won't last long enough to tap 3 holes and then they will break and you will be trying to dig a broken tap out, and it will be too hard to drill.
Skip the Erwin and Harbor Fright when it comes to metal cutting tools.
The same goes for drill bits.
And for god sakes, use SOME kind of oil any time you use thread cutting tools.
Take it from a machinist of 40+ years. Don't skimp on Drills, Taps, and Dies.
Agree on the advice in general. Do NOT buy crap taps or dies. You're wasting your money if you do! One thing I disagree on is with the statement on who makes them. Yes, even though you may find the "HSS" marking on them, that doesn't make them good. There are plenty of imports that are crap in spite of them being HSS so buyer beware. It has always been that way through the decades. Do buy quality which is why I've been prone to going with American made though in the past, you could find quality coming out of Germany or Italy. Sorry, but as I'm retired, I cannot account for levels of quality on new tools these days and I cannot recall buying any drill bit, tap or die since the 1990s. As for the actual use of taps & dies... do NOT just use "some kind of oil". Use a cutting fluid - especially one made for taps & dies. Yes, there's a difference between oils and cutting fluids and for the love of God, do NOT use WD-40. That stuff was never meant to be used as such and most people succeed in doing nothing but burning the hell out of their bits while creating hot spots which leads to micro-fracturing and failure. There are plenty of name brand cutting fluids such as Tap Magic that are vastly superior to any regular oil so go that way and save your tooling. Lastly, if you do break off a tap and cannot remove it by hand, if you're talented you can always cut them out using solid carbide tooling if you have it. HSS doesn't hold a candle in the face of carbide. Happy 4th 2023!
Moon is trying to be noticed in the background ! love that dog. Fortunately, I got my Dads old hammers. Great information Matt, I would also recommend a drill press and a band saw
With both never by real cheap. Look at the power rating. Otherwise they get hot and fail.
Moon is looking great 👍
Very good point on the angle grinder. 20 years ago, I bought a HF angle grinder. Got home with it and went to work on my wife's 1953 Chevy 5 window pickup. The grinder lasted 15 minutes and the brushes burned out along with the switch. Threw it in the trash and went down to Ace Hardware and bought a Makita. Still have the corded Makita and it still handles what I throw at it. I have my dad's ball peen hammers, assorted sockets and a few other tools that go back to the late 40s. A lot of his tools came up missing just before he passed.
Number six would be a good air compressor. Maybe you could do a video on the top five air tools.
I definitely agree on the torches could not live without them. Nice job !
Funny.....havent used a torch now in 10 years in building lots of rods. 😂 we dont bend steering rods,drag links or shock mounts. Al fab work. Well maybe used the torch on the neighbors snowplow when i was lazy a few winters ago 🤣🤣Map has is your friend on heating for getting bolts out and pre heat before welding
@@docholiday1034 I agree map gas is good too I usually hand the kids at work that instead of my torch because inexperienced people can cause damage with them too but nothing beats a smoke wrench when things get tough.
Finney Metalart first 25 years in fab work used nothing but....🤣 older wiser and have 2 shops...torches are gone never to be seen again. I think if your doing art work or forging they are great. Automotive field? No real need if you have fab skills,welding skills and a cheap plasma cutter. Torches do more damage than good with unskilled users..👍👍👍
All those things and lap top for schematics, how-tos and ordering parts and supplies it has become indispensable.
Mark Nowicki I took my old spare laptop that still works for web browsing and moved it down to the garage. It’s awesome to have Internet access right at your hands when you need to look something up or order a part. Of course I also have a smartphone but for a lot of things it’s still preferable to look them up on a normal computer. And having a computer down in the garage means I can avoid making a trip back inside the house and losing track of time for an hour in the middle of a project. 😂
Good too, see you Matt!
Got all the above tools, one other tool I use the heck out of is a Dremel now they make the good quick change wheels it's even better , torch is a must my neighbor gave me his, had it rebuild and new gauges, have gotten larger tanks from yard sales along side the road payed every little for them , drill bits are the hardest thing, got lots of them, have been teaching myself how to sharpen them on a grinder , and last, the tools I find on the road!! I carry a sign that says "Will Brake For Tools"!! keep up the great work Matt love this channel
1: Three 4.5" grinders (I like my porter cable it's cheep enough to have the trifecta set up) Flapper disc, hard stone grinder, and cut off wheel. Saves you time & frustration in changing discs, and saves on the grinder because it's not doing it all.
2: Plasma Cutter (as long as the lights are on, your in business)
3: Multiprocessor Welder (I really like my Titanium Unlimited 200) The Mig/Tig/Stick. I can do it all with one.... even though 99% of the time it's always Mig and always 220v. Mig is easy to learn, and IMHO its the best to get started on, because it gets you started.
4: 5hp Air Compressor (go big, once and done) I usually go cheap and build big, but I didn't skimp on this one. In fact I'm in the process now of getting another one (probably a cheaper one) and linking it to get more volume for a tire machine and heavy paint work.
5: 1/2" & 3/8" battery impacts and a 3/8" battery ratchet (no air hoses in tight spots)
6: every week stop into HF Tools, and buy something. (seriously, if you are just starting out, don't be ashamed of HF Tools. I use a lot of them daily as a heavy equipment mechanic, and they hold up. when they break I up-grade or do the easy in store warranty.)
* torch - I use the plasma for most everything, but a torch is very much needed. I like the "kangaroo pack" torches. Because when I need it, it's easy to grab it and go with it. The bottles are small so they don't last long, but it makes up for it in portability.
Pl
Look at Eastwood when they run their scratch and dent sale. My son picked up a brand new Eastwood combo welder (mig, tig, and stick) for almost half the price of a new one. He did the same thing with a bench top drill press. I think he got that from Harbor Freight.
GREAT VIDEO MATT!!! I AGREE WITH YOU 100 PERCENT!!!
I just picked up the same car as you have in the background for my first project 🤘🤘
been using my oxy acceletine torch since 1970 in Vietnam. Started restoring a car this year and learned how essential the MIG setup was. You can do so much with the little heat and it is so much quicker. My neighbor had a small Mig that I would use in a tough spot. Example welding a corner on the lower quarter panel of the car with the torch when the heat made a 6 inch diameter chunk of body puddy over braising (that I was unaware of) fall off the car. I was sick and ordered a Mig that day. It seems a 57 yr old old car may of had a lot of repairs done to it thru the years that you may not notice till your up to your ass in alligators.
Some very good comments here, I couldn't disc the first one. I have found that you can find a good deal on much of this at auctions, never know what you might find until you are standing there with little cash, jawing back and forth.
No. 1 don't let your bones get to old before you start and when you find yourself old like me try to stay active, cause when you lose it most times it's not going to come back.
You younger guys have some good ideas to pass along to us old Farts !
Freddie out ! Georgia boy !
Love my Cobra gas torch- bottles last for ever
A decent vise would be in my top 5. It’s where 75% of everything happens in my garage.
Vice(S), bench grinder and LOTS of clamps. Many outlets for power and a wide area to plug in your air hoses. High speed grinder/cut off wheels. Angle drill.
Tap and dies as you mentioned are a must. I buy used odd lots all the time. Those old worn taps and dies are great for chasing threads. I have a high quality set in a case I use for making new threads.
Can I recommend a tech video on welding with an oxy set up? I don’t have a wire feed and building my first hotrod
Thanks ! I was repairing rear quarters on a
whole bunch of cars back in the early 80's, the only thing that I want to add to your basic list is an electric sheet metal shear . Essential for cutting out shapes...
There's nothing like building rear quarters for a '67 Fleetwood... And then witnessing the cars demise. Tie rods wear out , fall out, and fire hydrants don't step out of the way...😂
Drill Press, Engine hoist, engine stand, hydraulic jacks, floor jack, car dollys, engine run-in stand.
i like the swamp cooler in the window of the ride behind you. talk about vintage ac, they work pretty good as long as the humidity isn't too high. i agree with your list. it's hard to build a custom anything without the tools on it. i would add a good drill and quality bits. there's always a need for a hole to be made, or a broken bolt to be removed.
I have a set of Harbor Fright body tools and they work OK except like you said if your pound on welds, but you can do a little grinding first to knock down the high spots. Helps maintaining the finish on the head.
Everything Matt mentioned is spot on correct. Also, clamps, Jack stands, levels, measuring tapes, folding rulers, vise grips and anvils. Just stay away from cheap ass harbor freight and the like tools. Spend some money, hunt them down and make stuff you need. Your welder and metal you collect up will improve your skills and let you create what you don't have.👍🍺
Over the last 50 years the best metal worker/bodyman I worked with was Charlie Jones, used oxy/acetylene torch and coathangers along with dollys & bodyhammers he had most since the 40s he did alot of restoration he would take panels that looked like swiss cheese and save them. He had a 32,33,&36 Fords and a stash of flathead performance parts that disappeared when he passed away.
Excellent video. It always nice to get opinions from experts. Thanks Matt
Thank you for the tips on tools to start working on old vehicles ! Take care , stay safe and healthy wherever your next adventure or research takes you ! Doing well here in Kansas .
Good question Matt.
#1 quality tool set both sae and metric
#2 air compressor and air tools
#3 a solid working surface
#4 friends who have tools that you can't afford ie lathes, milling machines specialized metal working tools
#5 time and patience for quality repairs you need to take the time to do the job right.
Nice Tips. #STAYSAFE
My top 5 are, a decent socket set, a bench vice , a drill press, an angle grinder and a sawsall.
. My first Rod project tools: Basic hand took set, Hacksaw, Inexpensive disk grinder, AC Buzz box, Bench grinder and Measuring tools, Non-tool: A damn good friend!
Several BIG FIRE EXTINGUISHERS, Eye protection, Ear protection. Have set rags, my insulated shirt while wearing it and a a solvent tank on fire while grinding. As an ex aircraft mechanic, all my power tools except for a few are AIR POWERED. Haven't seen an electric rivet gun / air hammer. A little oil at the start of the day, they run all day, don't get hot, usually lighter and much higher quality than electric stuff.
I buy mine on EBAY. I have bought $600 straight / ninety degree grinders for as little as $80.00 new in the box. I love my air drills too, many sizes and RPM out there.
Many will turn 20,000 RPM + so be careful what you put on them. I got tired of changing blades etc. so I have about a dozen with different accessories on them. Brands I like are, DOTCO, MASTER POWER, JIFFEY. ROCKWELL,. There are many more that are good too. just have to watch for them. Look at condition and you can tell how worn they are if they are beat up, smooth from handling etc. I have 10 HP (220V, Single Phase) compressors to run my blasting cabinets and will run air tools all day long. Most people don't realize their house has a 220V power plug for electric ranges / electric dryers. You can plug in a welder there. If your fuse box is in your garage get a 220 plug installed next to it for a welder / air compressor. Usually add another breaker and short wires. I'm CHEAP, I admit it. But that how I got tons of tools and a shop. Love your videos, Take Care! ,Mike
Hey Matt, as always, another great video, I totally agree with your top 5 tools, I've probably been fabricating & machining for 40+ years, I still learn something new every day(some thru your videos). I've always bought Milwaukee grinders & drill motors, when they were made here in the United States they were almost indestructible, there used to be a Milwaukee repair center here in Auburn Hills Michigan, but when they started being built overseas the quality tanked. Anyway keep up the great work, keep the "how to" video's coming...be safe!
I have 100's of tools and NEVER have enough. No matter what, you need something else.
I have 6 roll boxes, 5 top boxes, 2 machinist's, 6 horizonal file cabinets and at least 6 regular file cabinets and walls lined with shelves with tools, material, parts. Nuts, bolts etc.
I'm still collecting tools. I want to build Bead roller, English wheel, Shrinker / Stretcher. Have a 26' four post lift for 20 years I haven't got installed yet. Love to get a paint booth, may never happen. It's a NEVER ENDING Circus. 5 tools don't even stir the dust in a shop.
Every shop i ever worked in had torches. Always had to fight over the rose bud lol.
I’m one of those people who got years of use (abuse really) out of a $15 Chicago Electric corded grinder from Harbor Freight. It finally died and I decided to “upgrade” to a $35 Bauer unit. Works pretty well but like you said that bearing noise is just awful. It’s just as loud and grating as the $15 one. Between the grinder and my grossly undersized 20gal compressor that has to refill constantly, I’m pretty sure my neighbors hate me 😂
As far as body hammers I bought Martin and they’re pretty nice, but after after trying the Snap-On hammers those are definitely my preference. The balance is spot on and the heads have a good shape from new. The heads on my Martin hammers came way too flat and needed a lot of finishing... I don’t know if they’re not quite as good as they used to be or if I just got a few bad ones. They were recommended to me by a master panelbeater about 20 years ago. Most experienced people I’ve talked to more recently prefer Snap-On, but brand new ones are really pricey. If you’re on a budget you can buy Martin or even Napa hammers, and so long as you can properly finish / re-shape the heads yourself they make a perfectly decent hammer.
Good tips, thank you
Another super video Matt! Thanks!
The ice box looks great on the 39!!!!!
I started with an Oxy Acetylene torch. Then I got a 300 amp Tig. Then a 250 amp Mig. I need a plasma cutter, but a freind has one.
An electric finger sander/power file is really useful. I bought one a year or so ago and I use it daily - I’d be lost with out it now. It’s ideal for dressing welds down when you’ve butted panels together 👍🏻
A BRAIN...
I'm torn. I think my #3 choice would have been Moon!
Yeah, you still need to have some idea of how to use them too. Good advice video matt. 👍
Good list of tools to have. The tap and Die set was a surprise but I totally agree and now see the need to organize mine better for easy use. A gas torch is essential for sure. When you get that first angle grinder you find that having 3 or 4 more is so efficient so each one can be different head tools on them. I’m also a hunter of vintage body hammers and have found a few in antique malls for reasonable cost since they are not traditional antiques and many times not priced too high. I prefer the old hammers to new ones. BTW, thanks again for the ITG15 discount code. I just used it to finally add an Eastwood Plasma Cutter to my tool line up.
yes grinder. I like to buy my cut discs bulk on ebay. as cheap as 50 cents a disc.
I have two 4-1/2" grinders so I can have two different setups. I also remove the gaurd so I can run 6" cut off wheels on the 4-1/2" grinder. Just keep your fingers out of the way! Snap On body tools are nice and have great balance and feel. Don't buy cheap sets as it might make you never take up metal working! They are that bad. Your suggestions are all great. 220 welders have a much more stable arc and can do light material as well as heavy.
What is the best disc or wheel to use on the grinder to remove paint/rust and also best disc to grind welds? Thanks!
As far as equipment I think an air compressor would be in the top 10. You hit the nail on the head when you recommended quality torch set. I have a Smith set that is 50 years old and I can still get parts for it, just had the oxygen regulator rebuilt for it and they had no problems as far as I know.
some great advice, matt. and i can't help it... i see moon and i smile.
Got a couple nice sets of hammers from Matco.
I love the work you do. You are awesome when you are not TALKING !!!
I have many good grinders. I just found a two pack of majors 4-1/2” grinders. Corded. It was clearance at Home Depot for $59. Just giving everybody a a place to look and what to look for. Your big box hardware stores will have good deals on the clearance rack every now and again.
I have 3 of the snap on hammers that I bought within the k at few years! Great quality
The HF grinders are great if you get them on sale. I usually get a couple at a time and when they break toss it and go on to the next one. I bought a Dewalt cordless months ago and use it every weekend. HF are for a back up or if a friend needs to borrow one.
Yeah I specifically have some cheap hf or Walmart tools for people who need tools but won't bring them back
Great video 👍👍🇨🇱
SUGGESTION: HOME DEPOT, LOWES AND ACE.
I have a 110v Hobart welder that claims it can weld up to a quarter inch. I'm building my first hot rod and a friend recommended that machine bc he has the same machine and he never had a problem. (He's built a lot of cars) I have used it for 1/4 inch without popping a breaker and it seems to work fine as long as the central air isn't on. It looks like the metal is melting together and I bevel any corners that don't already have a 45* gap on both pieces already, but should I be worried about penetration!?!
Matt I just placed an Eastwood order for some stuff, one of which was sku 31198, how bad does that set suck? (7pc Body tool set) Now lets talk about that car swamp cooler on that ford, is that new?
Gosh, I guess I'd list wrenches. I know, maybe that goes without saying, but there are special wrenches for frozen bolts, impact wrenches for example and some I've seen but cannot name that use a hammer to crack the bolt looser. Oh and compressed air, another big need, speaking of impact wrenches. One note regarding oxy-acetylene: A torch is totally portable. My garage has only a very weak 110VAC power source, which makes MIG and TIG very expensive because of the electrical work needed to run the power from my service out to my garage. I bought a torch for now until I can afford to fix my power problem.
Good show.
A good pair of leather work gloves, really saves the hands. Goggles for the eyes. And common sense for everything else.
I use cheap, thin riggers gloves for everything. Far better feel. Though if doing serious welding proper welding gloves are required.
Also for any welding wear long sleeve cotton attire. The radiation will give you bad burns. Like sun burn. Ask me how I know!!
Great video
Never have enough tools. Always get the best you can afford.
ROD AND CUSTOM RENISANCE!!!!
Another great informational video Matt. A little off topic, what spaces will you be in at Carlisle?
Call electrician and have a 240 breaker and outlets installed in your shop or garage for the multi process welders most have a built in inverter however 240 is the way to go
PPE to protect the soft fleshy thing using the tools.
Who needs skin anyways :')
Got That , Now to find Someone to help create things with 45 yrs of Picking up those old pieces , Too Create those 1Off's . Stay Safe sell it All !!!!!!!!
What is that object on the 39 door behind you ? Thanks.
swamp cooler
It’s a flow through air vent to put fresh air into the cab of the vehicle while it goes down the road.
@@thederelictmachineco. I really don't think so. But good idea.
@@torekristoffersen176 I think taking out the windshield is a better idea. Lol.
Swamp cooler!
Personal Protective Equipment
It does not matter if you have the right tools if you loose your eye sight, hearing, lung function or a limb. Use safety gear.
Keep guards on the grinder; could be the difference from an inconvenience to a life changing hospital visit.
Mask, gloves and aprons when welding to protect from long term exposure.
number one is money. dont get stuck like me. a 16 year old with a rusty flathead 6 early 30's studebaker that barely drives, and hardly any money to afford a two barrel manifold.
On the grinders,. Add a zirc fitting to the bevel gear housing,. The cheep grinders have almost no Grease in the head.
Stay away from cheep body hammers they are way to hard and usually the. Bevel is way off...
Floor jack and stands
no Phosphate cutters?
Did he say only tools you need or top 5?
Thought all you needed for them old fords was a 11/16.
A vice and a bfh
the 6th would be an understanding family that tolerates your long hours ..
I think that you must have something like a porta- power or a monkey on a stick ( all that is, is a tension jack that can push or pull but it does a great job holding as well ) . i think you also need a decent oil filled ( not an oliless one ) You don't have to get a huge one but, if you could you should get one that our shop can un. if you dont have 220 then get the biggest 110 compressor. There s always tires that need aired up. Finally a decent floor jack and stands.
Matt that was a great video very informative but I think Moon is trying to steal the show.
With me,i've just got the best i could afford.If i had a better budget,well,you know the feeling.
Why did you switch from Dewalt to Milwaukee? I've seen Milwaukee promoted by several channels I follow lately and I really want to like Milwaukee but Dewalt batteries are more powerful. Dewalt flexvolt battery system offers 20V, 60V, and 120v while Milwaukee only offers 18v batteries.
Dewalts gone downhill recently, kinda sucks since I've used their power tools my whole life.
HOT ROD TOOLS 101
I came across that 1936 Chevy that sold at the auction for $5500. For sale in Paradise Pa. at Paradise motors for $10995. Just a little tit bid found it on Market Place.
Don't forget the other tool you need a big garage to hold all your tools because the garage gets smaller with some more tools you acquire that's what I need a bigger garage
Good video Matt. However I don't think Harbor Freight is going to sponsor you anytime soon. :-)
Has anyone used Propylene instead of acetylene? I know it’s a lot cheaper and lasts longer than acetylene, and since I’m on an extremely tight budget, I’ve thinking about going with an oxy-propylene setup.
I assume, Matt assumes you have a basic set of mechanic's hand tools (wrenches, crew drivers, ratchets etc.).
Oxy-fuel alone is worth it's weight in gold just to get rusted/stuck bolts out, MAP and Propane torches don't put out enough heat fast enough for differential heating.