You can clean the corrosion off using white vinegar, it works a treat ! Soak them in it for 5 minutes and then clean them off with IPA. You will need to neutralise the battery corrosion, even if it is dry.
I have recently attached a USB Power supply to my infrequently used Multimeters, to eliminate the possibility of Battery acid leakage inside the meter. Available in USB 5V DC to 6, 7.5, 9 or 12V Boost & 1.5, 3 or 4.5V Buck, Converters Plug size similar to a USB Memory stick. Cost around US$5 each, on EBay. For the small inconvenience of having to attache one of these Multimeters to a USB Charger, I don't have to worry about Battery leakage in any of these meters.
That Fluke meter was the top model before 289 and on some points it is better than the 289, like faster startup, better contrast on the display and longer battery life.
Friendly advice start using Eneloope rechargeable batteries in your $400 meter they won't leak when they go dead and you can recharge them over 1000 times.
just hose it down with a strong pressure right from the tap. wipe it down and leave it in the sun to dry out everything as good as new! I always do that with any electronic gear that has been messed up. Never has failed. No need to disassemble it.
Google "fiberglass cleaning pen" or "PCB cleaning pen" and you should get lots of hits. RS components sell them, among many others. They were originally designed for cleaning corrosion off PCBs and they are excellent for that.
Nice job, I have had to repair a battery cavity a bit worse that that. A quick trip down to local electronics store to get some AA battery containers, used them as donor for new parts. $5.00 worth of bits to fix >$100 DMM, bargain..
I am currently repairing my old pocket multi-meter that I bought way back in the 1990s -- left the batteries in and one of the clips has corroded completely off. :( Does anyone have any tips for finding replacements for the metal clips? I just need to go do some scrapping I think 🤔
Other scrap devices or fashion something workable, though not identical, liberated from a new bought battery holder, possibly combined with epoxy and/or polymorph plastic...
You could also buy replacement contacts on eBay for $10 or so and save the time you spent cleaning them although if you need to use it that day clean away but only for temporary fix IMO
The fiberglass cleaning pens leave heaps of tiny needle-sharp shards, which snap off during the cleaning process. Definitely not something to use with bare hands! The main problem with these kinds of "repairs" is that most battery contacts are steel (and the springs certainly are steel). Therefore you end up with unplated steel at the battery connection points, and for the spring to negative plate connection. These steel connections corrode (rust) and produce highly unreliable connections. It's quite effective to tin / solder the re-plate the surface, however it's very difficult to get a good connection because you cannot get rid of all the pitting. I've found the best solution is to replace the connectors, and I always remove good clean connectors from all junked products. If new is too hard, a new "skin" of shim brass or copper works great to provide a brand new connector surface... just leave the old contacts as the structure, and make the electrical connection to the new tin material. I have rolls of self adhesive copper which is awesome for these kinds of repairs!
Fantastic. No one bothers with the all important simple stuff. I hope you keep a few of these things coming. Thank you.
I like your rubbing alcohol dispenser, cool.
Thank you so Much had a fluke Meter that I bought at Auction and it did not work on arrival and your video helped me to get it going.
We picked up a baking soda blaster at work and it works a treat for cleaning up connections!
You can clean the corrosion off using white vinegar, it works a treat ! Soak them in it for 5 minutes and then clean them off with IPA.
You will need to neutralise the battery corrosion, even if it is dry.
I have recently attached a USB Power supply to my infrequently used Multimeters, to eliminate the possibility of Battery acid leakage inside the meter.
Available in USB 5V DC to
6, 7.5, 9 or 12V Boost &
1.5, 3 or 4.5V Buck, Converters
Plug size similar to a USB Memory stick. Cost around US$5 each, on EBay.
For the small inconvenience of having to attache one of these Multimeters to a USB Charger, I don't have to worry about Battery leakage in any of these meters.
My favorite and only Fluke meter.
I’m having a similar problem with my 18+ . Could I send You some pictures for your opinion? Thanks and nice work.
That Fluke meter was the top model before 289 and on some points it is better than the 289, like faster startup, better contrast on the display and longer battery life.
it's called a prep pen sold at walmart and auto body tool shops... Good job..
I think for most of us the 189 (187, 87IV) is better suited to bench work than the 289 type. Faster boot time by far, much better display contrast.
Friendly advice start using Eneloope rechargeable batteries in your $400 meter they won't leak when they go dead and you can recharge them over 1000 times.
Very good
You can purchase battery contact very cheaply from Fluke and other stores.
“If it works it must be a Fluke!”
Amazon sells them with other types of materials available in pens.
just hose it down with a strong pressure right from the tap. wipe it down and leave it in the sun to dry out everything as good as new! I always do that with any electronic gear that has been messed up. Never has failed. No need to disassemble it.
nice video!
EBay sell a version of fiberglass pens I have the radio shack one too and the new eBay one.
Google "fiberglass cleaning pen" or "PCB cleaning pen" and you should get lots of hits. RS components sell them, among many others. They were originally designed for cleaning corrosion off PCBs and they are excellent for that.
Vinegar works well too
Nice job, I have had to repair a battery cavity a bit worse that that.
A quick trip down to local electronics store to get some AA battery containers, used them as donor for new parts.
$5.00 worth of bits to fix >$100 DMM, bargain..
Try greater than $400. Even used they are over $200.
You could have used a 3.7V Li-Ion battery with a small DC-DC boost converter (3.7V to 6V) to power the Fluke. Anyway the 189 is an excellent meter!
Or four Eneloop batteries
You can get fiberglass eraser pens on Amazon.
I used a dremmel to clean contacts on a 70s tapedeck, the connectors would'nt come out. LOL!
I am currently repairing my old pocket multi-meter that I bought way back in the 1990s -- left the batteries in and one of the clips has corroded completely off. :( Does anyone have any tips for finding replacements for the metal clips? I just need to go do some scrapping I think 🤔
Other scrap devices or fashion something workable, though not identical, liberated from a new bought battery holder, possibly combined with epoxy and/or polymorph plastic...
Digikey and Mouser
You could also buy replacement contacts on eBay for $10 or so and save the time you spent cleaning them although if you need to use it that day clean away but only for temporary fix IMO
You can buy almost anything, but where's the fun in that?
The fiberglass cleaning pens leave heaps of tiny needle-sharp shards, which snap off during the cleaning process. Definitely not something to use with bare hands!
The main problem with these kinds of "repairs" is that most battery contacts are steel (and the springs certainly are steel). Therefore you end up with unplated steel at the battery connection points, and for the spring to negative plate connection. These steel connections corrode (rust) and produce highly unreliable connections. It's quite effective to tin / solder the re-plate the surface, however it's very difficult to get a good connection because you cannot get rid of all the pitting.
I've found the best solution is to replace the connectors, and I always remove good clean connectors from all junked products. If new is too hard, a new "skin" of shim brass or copper works great to provide a brand new connector surface... just leave the old contacts as the structure, and make the electrical connection to the new tin material. I have rolls of self adhesive copper which is awesome for these kinds of repairs!
Tinning the contacts is a really good (and easy) suggestion.
Thanks!
fiberglass pens on ebay and lots of supplyers