I have a Fluke 79 series 2, I've had it 35 years and still going strong and I love it to bits ! For most of those years I was working in Electron Microscopy so it's had some Zapp's !...cheers.
I had used them for years working for the military in avionics, but when I retired in 2013 I bought one off of eBay that had been serviced and calibrated. It has worked perfectly since then. The only problem I have occasionally, is that the battery terminals get the green crusties, but that's not hard to take care of. I love this meter as well : )
Hi Eddie, I'm very happy with my 183, because board was as new. Also happy that your videos helped me to choose this Fluke for reasonable price and to change jacks. But it was really challenge and I understand why so many board looked so badly. First left jack couples was easy to removed - 5 -7 seconds and same vacuum as yours. But those near chip was so badly. After 30-40 minutes I've used small drill to reveal hole and solder-desolder it again. I used capton scotch to protect area around every hole to leave board in the same condition. Also slightly polished screen as well. And one thing more. Luckely 183 do not have battery on board. For desoldering got IF6000 and very long cleaning, for soldering invisiable 2040 because cleaning flux under jacks possible only in washing machines.
Thanks for your feedback! It is worth repairing these - but it is not worth buying one these days as they are so old - and there are so many new and better options... Too sad that they stopped making these - but then the price would most likely be crazy high like the new 289. IMHO they are far over priced.
Eyelets, that what I call those solder holes thru the board. Real time repairs showing a real world fix. And for an instrument that you like !! Worth the effort. I love you moving thru this fix. You can tell that years of experience are behind this fix. Nothing to quick. Make sure the pins are straight before we try and haul those old connectors out of there. Solder sucker in full operation. And careful analysis as you went along. Great Vid Ed.
Eddie. The 189 is my favorite meter as well. The price for a used one has doubled in last 2 years. I had a rule that i would never pass up a "WORKING" 189 on eBay for $150 or less. I've collected a few over the years, and have had great luck. But, they mostly go for $300's now 😥 (I'm in luck if i want to sell my collection). Just recently, i was in a bidding war for a NOS 189 on eBay; i lost. It sold for $515 (I can buy a good HP 34401A for that!). Love your style, brother. Cheers
Thanks! I appreciate you! I was bidding on a '189 - but I stopped bidding and it sold for $99. That is way to much for a broken meter that will be used for parts.
1 year ago I saw a NEW in Box, never used 189 for just $200. At that time I didn't know how good is this DMM. I also left a used and working 189 for $110.
После такого прибор надо отдавать в поверку. :) Судя по черному цвету дорожек - прибор основательно подпалили. Сопротивление дорожек сильно изменилось.
Thanks. It is sad to see the abuse or failures of an expensive device. I think it turned out well though. The dangers of buying a meter that could have been around for 20 years.
Hi Eddie, love your vids. The Fluke 189 is also my best meter, the original one not the horrible 2 version. I bought it new from USA early 2000. It has the best specs, just a great MM.. previous i used the Fluke 23 for years, basically a fluke 77 with better input protection. essential if you touch the anode of a line output valve in an early colour TV! , cheers Eddie Phil UK.
Thanks Phil! Love to hear from our friends in the UK. I agree the version 2 of this meter is like my 289 - my least favorite meter! Sadly the limited lifetime warranty that Fluke is known for has run out on our meters. I may replace the lithium battery before it ruins this meter - so maybe I'll do a video on that;)
So is low melt solder, or at the very least leaded solder. (flux is a given) Adding a generous amount of leaded solder to a lead-free solder joint before attempting to wick it or suck it out helps tremendously. The most effective and easy way to desolder anything in my opinion is using a blowgun with an air compressor. You just heat it up with an iron like you would normally and then just blow the molten solder clean off. Some masking tape is advised over the surrounding components because the solder you blow away can fly in between pins of nearby ICs and cause shorts if not careful.
Low melt solder is your friend in situations like this, or at the very least your standard leaded solder. (flux is a given) Adding a generous amount of leaded solder to a lead-free solder joint before attempting to wick it or suck it out helps tremendously. The most effective and easy way to desolder anything in my opinion is using a blowgun with an air compressor. You just heat it up with an iron like you would normally and then just blow the molten solder clean off. Some masking tape is advised over the surrounding components because the solder you blow away can fly in between pins of nearby ICs and cause shorts if not careful. It will pass for Government work, though.😜
Thanks for your feedback! I've seen small particles of solder that have been pushed under other parts cause a lot of time and pain in troubleshooting...so I'm going to use vacuum instead;)
….you always need good luck in buying used equiment.Doesn‘t depend on the brand. The only chance you have to prevent the risk..asking for images from inside as well. People who knows what they are buying and ..whom they are buying from will always have a good chance . The Hioki would the best choice buying a new meter. The Fluke 189 is a very good meter . For it’s age the specs are up to date ! Did you check what the accuracy is like after the years ?Or did you compare them with reference caps and resistor for example? Would be interesting to see.
Thanks for the great feedback! Yes, buying used is aways tricky. I think when a meter is possibly 20 years old it gets more tricky;) I will do a meter review comparing the 189 and the Hioki.
Looks like your super cap is leaking too Eddie! Joe Smith pointed this out in a video of his 189's. I checked mine and sure enough it was leaking and the electrolyte will damage the PCB. Joe gives the part # through Mouser I believe. I ordered a new one and replaced mine. Easy job. I think it is for the data logging memory. If you don't replace it or use the data logging just remove it before it messes up your board to no return.
Thanks for this information! I do think I remember part of Joe's video on this. I need to rewatch it;) I have larger super caps that would fit, but wasn't sure how big the circuit could handle so that's why I didn't install it. My cap is rusted, but it looks very dry. Is the rust evidence of leakage? I might get a KEMET equivalent as I don't want to put another bad (Panasonic) cap back in;)
I think I bought 10 pcs at the time and ended up changing them on a few friends meters as well as all of mine. One friends was leaking (current not chemicals) so bad a new set of batteries would only last him a couple of weeks. Lucky we caught it early enough. Watching this while repairing another dead 189. Used an inverted cone (cutting tool) to flatten out where all of the standoffs were broke off. Then added brass standoffs set into what was left of the original standoffs, with heat shrink over them. Then glued to case. Like the one shown, lot's of other chips and cracks.
Thanks for asking! I'll get a video out on this very soon. I've been checking with different board houses to see where we can get them made. I'll try to finish this up before the end of the year - which is coming very fast.
Eddie I liked your first idea about attaching the ground to that chip that looks like a current sense on the ground it looks like they went to a lot of trouble to connect it at the entry point. You could have filed a Groove for a wire in the plastic of the terminal block or use some very thin copper foil.
Thanks David! I think because it is just for identification and not precise measurement it was ok to connect it the way that I did. I thought of using a foil as you say but I couldn’t see how to connect it to to barrel of the thru hole connection.
I'd love to see how that Hioki compares to other high-end meters with regards to measurements. The Fluke 87V is very fast at measuring capacitance for example and I wonder if the Hioki is just as fast.
Thank you! The Fluke 87V is very fast at capacitance measurements, but I’m not sure it is as accurate as some other high-end meters. I have done some side by side measurements - I think in my LCR video. I do want to compare the high end meters side by side and now that I have a great LCR meter, I can check accuracy as well as show the speed. Thanks for asking for this;)
Thanks for asking! Here is a link to a better terminal block than I purchased. I think this one must have come out since I purchased mine: ebay.us/6LIiwH
Good point about the term, 'lifetime warranty'. It's a weasle word term. When it was originally used it meant the lifetime of the human who bought it. Now it means the lifetime of the product which of course is subjective. They put their heads together and decide how long the product should last, 5 - 10 years or whatever it is, and that's it. So it's safe to suppose that it's better than the 30 - 60 - 90 day warranties, but not a whole lot better. I liked the 'forever' warranties on tools like craftsman back in the day. I got to test it. I took a craftsman box wrench that I had that was handed down from my grandfather. The box part of the wrench cracked and I took it to the local sears and they replaced it no questions asked.
Great point and example! Craftsman was what we think of as lifetime. Fluke does put 'Limited' right after 'Lifetime', but most people forget to say this part. For how expensive they are - they should have long warranties! IMHO;)
@@KissAnalog: YES! I agree. When we hear "LIFETIME", every person who ever bought a CRAFTSMAN tool knows what that means and how it works. I believe that FLUKE only covers the original buyer, and they had a lot of issues with the supercap leaking in the 189 and 289, and I'm sure the bean counters love distancing the company from skeletons like that with tricky lawyer-language.
That Fluke really is a parts meter now given its condition. Get another one like it in better condition and this one could provide it with good electronic replacement parts as needed.
Thank you! These meters are so old now that I will never buy another one. There are just too many better options today. Technology just keeps getting better. Here is one fantastic example: ua-cam.com/video/mvySfmW3nZs/v-deo.html
You are welcome sir, and yes I have never owned Fluke only because I don't need anything that high-end for my basic electronics work. Almost any meter under the sun would serve me well since I do low power stuff pretty much exclusively. My Sunday best meter is a Greenlee DM-20 and it is very good!@@KissAnalog
Removing that banana jack header would have been MUCH easier and less risky to the pads if you used low-melt solder. That stuff is awesome for tricky tasks that involve lots of pins, plastic parts and sensitive pads. Also, pad restoration IS a DIY thing these days, and perfect for that FLUKE to make a nearly invisible repair. But, i prefer enameled copper when a jumper is a must; the plastic insulation looked bulky and crowded in your application. My 2¢
When my display became scratched, I polished out the scratches with diamond paste and elbow grease. (Apply the elbow grease gently but generously.) Start with a coarser diamond paste (e.g. 3.0) for deeper scratches, then polish with 1.0. It worked well for me, but try it at your own risk.
There are 3d print files for the 187 / 189 tilt stand available on the interwebs.. also you can just remove the super cap and leave it out... it is just for keeping clock and log data when batteries are out..
Hi Kiss Analog my fluke 187 has a problem in ohm meter function. It is unstable example if I mesure resistor 10Kohm 1% but it's running around 8K to 11K. Any suggestion for this problem. thank you
Thanks for asking! Have you opened it up? I'd be interested if there is a loose connection on the terminals of the banana jacks to the PCB. Then I'd look for any discoloring on the PCB around resistors. There could be a resistor that has been damaged.
Hello, I have a faulty Fluke 189 according to what Fluke's technical support says it has a faulty control ic, I would like to know the ic frequency and where it is soldered to the fluke, if you can help me, I would appreciate it Kiss Analog I'm from Portugal
Thanks for asking. if you look at the crystal oscillator in the pix it will show the frequency. When you get the control IC it will be obvious where it goes. Can you tell us what they sell for IC for?
I've bought a few Fluke meters and Thermometers from Ebay, and your right, its hit and miss. For my meters, one had both fuses blown, one had one fuse blown and reeked of cigarette smoke. Fluke Thermometers, one had a cracked case by the display, and one had had a bad battery leak at one time. This seller sells 'refurbished' Flukes, and once I sent him pics of the damage and leaked fluid inside, he refunded me a portion of what I paid, or I could have returned it. It was an easy clean up, as no circuit board was under the battery compartment, just the keyboard. All of these worked fine once I replaced fuses (both sellers paid for the fuses), and the thermometers are fine. So ya, buyer beware, and get the seller to pay for repairs or return it if its not disclosed in the listing!
@@KissAnalog I would also note that all these issues were reported to the sellers PRIOR to leaving them feedback. No one wants negative feedback. So, over the years, I've bought 7 Flukes on Ebay, multimeters and Thermometers. 4 of the 7 had issues, so be careful out there!
Interesting video, and well-made. It is strange to see how bad Fluke in fact is when you think of its reputation. You can get meters that outperform the Fluke by miles and costs 1/3 - 1/2 of the Fluke. IP 67 means the meter can stay underwater permanently and would be clean inside after a sand storm. I am wondering if you maybe could make a video bout antistatic mats, wristbands and so on, and how to use it on top level. Hope you get well soon!! :-)
I assume you mean brands like Brymen. But they were hardly around 15 years ago, the era of this Fluke. (Well they were but outside the normal sales circuit). Their popularity has mainly been on the rise the last 10 years. Top brands that delivered similar quality back then (arguably) like metrawatt, hp/agilent etc were also similar priced back then.
@@mrpetit2 Fluke was some of the absolute best back then, they had great test leads, consistent quality ad was properly top of the range. But in the last 10 years has other brands (even bad brands) fast overtaken Fluke. So comparable has their quality skydived towards the ground, their test leads are also been reduced to some bad plastic, one of the first thing you trow out. Flukes specifications are now below average. Their "lifetime guarantee" it reduced, their "calibration" has nothing to do with calibration at all and in general do you get below the original quality while all other brands has developed, innovated and outperformed Fluke. And still is Fluke, what most US people consider the best! :-)
My guess is that most of your dust ingress has more to do with the missing half of the one input jack’s shroud. Another guess is that the IR shield is broken how it is due to someone in the past trying to torque it open instead of going straight up. Easy habit to have if one has taken many more 87s etc. apart before doing their first 18X.
Thanks for your feedback! The broken shroud could have let more dust in, but the IR Shield did look perfect until I pulled it out and the broken part fell off. But when it was in even with the broken part missing - it is still pretty tight. Even with the shrouds in tact, there is gaps between the upper housing and the PCB with the the shrouds. Also, the PCB is exposed in the battery compartment and the battery compartment housing isn't very tight. I think a lot of it depends on where it is used;)
I’m waiting on you to give us some information on the new Simpson DDM multimeter!!! Like who makes them where are they made are they quality like the old Simpson analog meters
@@KissAnalog that would be great I love the old Simpson analog meters. And would like to know about the new Simpson DMM’s. Thinking about buying one but can’t really find no information on them
Thanks for the great question. Let me see if we can troubleshoot it together first. Does it read resistance or continuity? Will it read current on the 10A input? Did it work for you before and then stop working? Or did you buy it or maybe given this not working? If it was working - what happened that made it stop working?
With an ESP8266 (ESP01 or ESP01S) and a pair of RX/TX IR diodes you can make this meter even better with a website display on your phone or PC via WiFi.
Thanks for the fantastic question!! This is a bit of an enigma;) I think it might help support my theory that they were afraid of these models replacing the 87 (which is accepted by many defense contractors as a meter that they can buy without having to go thru the justification process - IMHO). The 89IV came out in 1999, and then was replaced or changed to the 189 (so putting it in a different series - separating it from the 87). So in 2000 they came out with the 189 and the new 87 V (where they say/admit that the 189 has 20 more features). This probably felt safe, but then they killed the 189 (maybe I'm wrong - maybe it was because of the super poor stand design). BTW, if you look at Fluke's history statement of their multimeters - the 89IV is left off the list;) Also, I believe the Tektronix multimeters were used for the 80 series design. Tektronix and Fluke were both purchased by the same company, so their multimeters were in competition - and of course there are so many that buy Fluke without thought of comparing them to anyone else, so Tek lost their multimeters.
@@KissAnalog Thanks for the elaborate answer! When you mentioned Fluke omitted the 87IV on their history list I think you're right about something 'shady' had been going on with this series indeed. By the way, I replaced that super capacitor in mine because it had started to leak. I though about getting rid of it completely since I believe it's only used for keeping time between battery changes (as it is with the 289).
Thanks for that info! That was probably correct. I think they give 7 years after last manufacture date, so if they made them for one year then 7 more would be 8 years. Still good - but for an expensive meter it is appropriate.
You should give a video on the behind the scenes government politics on the stacks of Fluke test equipment. Like on a Navy ship in the 60s they would throw unopened cases of new wrenches over when coming into port. Why? If we don't then they cut our budget down for next time out. 🤣 anyway great video and Fluke 189 is cool and UT181A Bluetooth. thanks. PS... I have on order an ebay: Digital Multimeter HP-770D Auto Range 40000 Counts DMM BarGraph Continuity Tester Meter for $57 Mmm I wonder if it is any good? 🧐 get well. 🥰
Whoever sold that thing should be named and shamed imho. Usernamed, that is. Awful. Especially with zero of two fuses being correct. The newer version of the input block appears to have shouldered pins. Don’t look like you version does. Do you wear an ankle strap? Didn’t see a bracelet for the ESD precautions you mentioned when firing up the iron. Been thinking about going the ankle route lately. A coworker taught me to always start a desoldering task by adding fresh solder. You’ve been in this space for a long time so you I’d imagine you’ve heard it.
Thanks - you never know what you get when you buy used. The seller might have been re-selling it as well. I think you are right about the new block. I bought mine a long time ago - right after I bought the meter, but it took me awhile to get around to doing this video. I touch metal on my bench before I touch a board or components, but I don't strap as that is not safe around power equipment. I should have a solder bench where all that is done, but I'm having a tough time finding the space right now. I do wet the tip and then clean most of it off when I'm going to use a solder sucker, but then I get it more wet when soldering. You get a good feel for this after a while. Wetting the tip helps transfer the heat.
Yes that meter really needs to have the horizontal fuse replaced. It looks as though someone has fitted a 1A fuse (BLS 1) where there should be a 440mA one, sometimes marked 44/100. I noticed this straight away because the fitted fuse is red and the correct type are usually blue. The other fuse should indeed be an 11A one (usually green), although the 10A one will be OK provided it has the correct voltage rating and operating speed.
wow that meter has had a rough life, hard to find plastic not cracked, and I am waiting for a 289 from ebay right now, probably be a piece of shiff like that one, after I made the bid I saw the faults with the 289. bad battery life ,the leaking capacitor, both of which I was shocked, thought fluke was so good but now I think there a bunch of greedy f cks like everyone else, should have bought the dt4282
The Hioki meter is a great meter! Since I started this channel - I have found a number of meters that I'd buy before overspending on a FLUKE. I'm so disappointed that Fluke hasn't tried to compete or even keep up. I still love my 189 but I wouldn't buy another - and the 289 is my least favorite meter and most over priced - IMHO;)
@@KissAnalog understood, my meter did show up the other day perfect condition no cracks, all intact I have a capacitor on the way digikey #rscsk204d01004t took all day to find that part seems to be an exact replacement 200 nf-3.3volts same configuration as original supposedly. with flukes reputation I was surprised no manual, I understand the new versions of the 289 have a battery instead of the bad capacitor
I have heard that the battery is not a great option as it leaks and can ruin the board where the capacitor doesn't typically cause damage. I need to check my 189...
So what’s wrong with a fluke 289 ? I own one been a great meter and better than them cheap shit ones people use. At the end of the day I do lots of electronics repairs and you use high quality tools for the job.
Thanks for asking! IMHO the 289 is too big and clumsy with a terrible stand. It goes thru batteries too fast, so you really need to use rechargeable batteries so you are not polluting the environment. I also think the display is not great and I don't like the menus where some common functions have been moved to and now take extra steps to use them. There are lots of great high quality meters that are not 16 year old technology that needs an opto coupled cable to read from. Bluetooth makes logging and watching measurements remotely so much better and the apps are free and don't require a monthly subscription. I've reviewed a number of meters that I like better than my 289, and they cost about half the price of the bloated 289. The 289 is not as high quality as some of my other meters IMHO. The Hioki is a great example: amzn.to/3ZJmJ5P
@@KissAnalog what you on about 289 is a very high quality meter, top of its class and them over meters you talk meter are just cheap Chinese rubbish with unbranded components in them. I know this because I spend most of my time repairing cheap Chinese rubbish. But when it comes to getting things dead right you need spot on tools to do the job. I want a meter that will last not drift out,etc. I use some of these cheaper meter and ok for normal stuff but when it comes to being precise then they are no good. Sorry fluke puts these meters to shame. Also don’t matter on its age,etc I want a meter that is dead on with reading not out like cheaper.
@michaelmitchell8218; Here is a list of High quality multimeters that cost a fraction of Fluke and are arguably made just as well if not better (some with higher IP ratings), and are all safety certified by 3rd party. I'll list a number of them just to show how many meters are better options IMHO. Hioki DT4282 meter that I mentioned is not Chinese, it is Japanese and is better than FLUKE in every way. There's no place that the 289 is better IMHO. Link to DT4281 amzn.to/3mMf6gN Flir DM93 has blue tooth and again is better in every way than the 289 IMHO. It is an american company that has the same limited lifetime warranty as the 289. IDEAL industries makes another awesome meter that is a US company (I think older than FLUKE, and is still owned by IDEAL where FLUKE sold out to Danaher): amzn.to/3Ju0XgZ AMPROBE is an American company around as long as FLUKE - also owned by the same company as FLUKE and this meter is a high-end meter with dB and 10k count and is less than half the price of the 289: amzn.to/3YzNgS4 Greenlee another American company, although I think their multimeter is a rebadged Brymen that is very well respected meter made in Taiwan: amzn.to/420383j Extech is an American firm now owned by FLIR (above) amzn.to/3JclntG Southwire Tools is another American company that has been around since the 1950s and makes excellent durable multimeters: amzn.to/4272wJa CEM is a chinese mfg, but is arguably just as solid or more than a Fluke meter in every way. This is a 50k count high-end meter: amzn.to/3JbdDbf UEi an American company that just celebrated their 50 year anniversary, this is another awesome meter with Bluetooth: amzn.to/3mFskvz Sanwa is another very well respected meter from Japan: amzn.to/3ZH7OJB
I have a Fluke 79 series 2, I've had it 35 years and still going strong and I love it to bits ! For most of those years I was working in Electron Microscopy so it's had some Zapp's !...cheers.
Awesome! Thanks!
I had used them for years working for the military in avionics, but when I retired in 2013 I bought one off of eBay that had been serviced and calibrated. It has worked perfectly since then. The only problem I have occasionally, is that the battery terminals get the green crusties, but that's not hard to take care of. I love this meter as well : )
Thanks Stephen! I too was in the AirForce, but I don't ever remember a tech manual pointing out the use of a specific brand - do you?
@@KissAnalog No, I don't! As a matter a fact, we used a variety of brands...even a Simpson 260 and I still love those to this day.
Hi Eddie, I'm very happy with my 183, because board was as new. Also happy that your videos helped me to choose this Fluke for reasonable price and to change jacks. But it was really challenge and I understand why so many board looked so badly. First left jack couples was easy to removed - 5 -7 seconds and same vacuum as yours. But those near chip was so badly. After 30-40 minutes I've used small drill to reveal hole and solder-desolder it again. I used capton scotch to protect area around every hole to leave board in the same condition. Also slightly polished screen as well.
And one thing more. Luckely 183 do not have battery on board.
For desoldering got IF6000 and very long cleaning, for soldering invisiable 2040 because cleaning flux under jacks possible only in washing machines.
Thanks for your feedback! It is worth repairing these - but it is not worth buying one these days as they are so old - and there are so many new and better options... Too sad that they stopped making these - but then the price would most likely be crazy high like the new 289. IMHO they are far over priced.
Eyelets, that what I call those solder holes thru the board. Real time repairs showing a real world fix. And for an instrument that you like !! Worth the effort. I love you moving thru this fix. You can tell that years of experience are behind this fix. Nothing to quick. Make sure the pins are straight before we try and haul those old connectors out of there. Solder sucker in full operation. And careful analysis as you went along. Great Vid Ed.
Thanks #Sparky Skinner! I appreciate you!
wish you speedy recovery and thanks for the video
Thanks so much! I appreciate you!
Eddie. The 189 is my favorite meter as well. The price for a used one has doubled in last 2 years. I had a rule that i would never pass up a "WORKING" 189 on eBay for $150 or less. I've collected a few over the years, and have had great luck. But, they mostly go for $300's now 😥 (I'm in luck if i want to sell my collection). Just recently, i was in a bidding war for a NOS 189 on eBay; i lost. It sold for $515 (I can buy a good HP 34401A for that!). Love your style, brother. Cheers
Thanks! I appreciate you! I was bidding on a '189 - but I stopped bidding and it sold for $99. That is way to much for a broken meter that will be used for parts.
1 year ago I saw a NEW in Box, never used 189 for just $200. At that time I didn't know how good is this DMM. I also left a used and working 189 for $110.
HI Eddie, I really like your review and the info.. Thank you for your time, very interesting. 😀👍
Thank you! I appreciate you!
Thank you for the review))) 😁 prices for fluke products, no comments) good luck to your channel and good health!!!)) thanks again for the review)
Thanks so much!
Agree. 189 and 187 are fluke best handheld meters.
Thanks! I agree;)
После такого прибор надо отдавать в поверку. :) Судя по черному цвету дорожек - прибор основательно подпалили. Сопротивление дорожек сильно изменилось.
Thanks. It is sad to see the abuse or failures of an expensive device. I think it turned out well though. The dangers of buying a meter that could have been around for 20 years.
Hi Eddie, love your vids. The Fluke 189 is also my best meter, the original one not the horrible 2 version. I bought it new from USA early 2000. It has the best specs, just a great MM.. previous i used the Fluke 23 for years, basically a fluke 77 with better input protection. essential if you touch the anode of a line output valve in an early colour TV! , cheers Eddie Phil UK.
Thanks Phil! Love to hear from our friends in the UK. I agree the version 2 of this meter is like my 289 - my least favorite meter! Sadly the limited lifetime warranty that Fluke is known for has run out on our meters. I may replace the lithium battery before it ruins this meter - so maybe I'll do a video on that;)
Yes, I'd enjoy seeing the 189 vs 87 shoot out.
Thank you - much appreciated!
Thanks for your help and 🎉
Thanks!!
Thanks Eddy... Nice tools
Thank you!
You have great videos!!! Thank you!!!
Thanks so much!
Remember that flux is your best friend when soldering / desoldering.
Thank you! I gotta remember that;)
So is low melt solder, or at the very least leaded solder. (flux is a given) Adding a generous amount of leaded solder to a lead-free solder joint before attempting to wick it or suck it out helps tremendously. The most effective and easy way to desolder anything in my opinion is using a blowgun with an air compressor. You just heat it up with an iron like you would normally and then just blow the molten solder clean off. Some masking tape is advised over the surrounding components because the solder you blow away can fly in between pins of nearby ICs and cause shorts if not careful.
I'd suggest a 3D printed case for this fluke would be nice.. only bit is the designing effort would be a lot of pain and suffering 😂😅
Low melt solder is your friend in situations like this, or at the very least your standard leaded solder. (flux is a given) Adding a generous amount of leaded solder to a lead-free solder joint before attempting to wick it or suck it out helps tremendously. The most effective and easy way to desolder anything in my opinion is using a blowgun with an air compressor. You just heat it up with an iron like you would normally and then just blow the molten solder clean off. Some masking tape is advised over the surrounding components because the solder you blow away can fly in between pins of nearby ICs and cause shorts if not careful. It will pass for Government work, though.😜
Thanks for your feedback! I've seen small particles of solder that have been pushed under other parts cause a lot of time and pain in troubleshooting...so I'm going to use vacuum instead;)
….you always need good luck in buying used equiment.Doesn‘t depend on the brand.
The only chance you have to prevent the risk..asking for images from inside as well.
People who knows what they are buying and ..whom they are buying from will always have a good chance .
The Hioki would the best choice buying a new meter.
The Fluke 189 is a very good meter .
For it’s age the specs are up to date !
Did you check what the accuracy is like after the years ?Or did you compare them with reference caps and resistor for example? Would be interesting to see.
Thanks for the great feedback! Yes, buying used is aways tricky. I think when a meter is possibly 20 years old it gets more tricky;)
I will do a meter review comparing the 189 and the Hioki.
Looks like your super cap is leaking too Eddie! Joe Smith pointed this out in a video of his 189's. I checked mine and sure enough it was leaking and the electrolyte will damage the PCB. Joe gives the part # through Mouser I believe. I ordered a new one and replaced mine. Easy job. I think it is for the data logging memory. If you don't replace it or use the data logging just remove it before it messes up your board to no return.
Thanks for this information! I do think I remember part of Joe's video on this. I need to rewatch it;)
I have larger super caps that would fit, but wasn't sure how big the circuit could handle so that's why I didn't install it. My cap is rusted, but it looks very dry. Is the rust evidence of leakage? I might get a KEMET equivalent as I don't want to put another bad (Panasonic) cap back in;)
@@KissAnalog I think that’s corrosion caused by the leaking chemicals in the super cap, not from the environment. My 289 was bad too.
I had read that on the 287/289 series, it was for the clock, which would affect logging too as its time based, I would think.
@@repro7780 causes batteries to die extra fast too.
I think I bought 10 pcs at the time and ended up changing them on a few friends meters as well as all of mine. One friends was leaking (current not chemicals) so bad a new set of batteries would only last him a couple of weeks. Lucky we caught it early enough.
Watching this while repairing another dead 189. Used an inverted cone (cutting tool) to flatten out where all of the standoffs were broke off. Then added brass standoffs set into what was left of the original standoffs, with heat shrink over them. Then glued to case. Like the one shown, lot's of other chips and cracks.
Interesting! Any update about the SMPS for John Audio board?
Thanks for asking! I'll get a video out on this very soon. I've been checking with different board houses to see where we can get them made. I'll try to finish this up before the end of the year - which is coming very fast.
Eddie I liked your first idea about attaching the ground to that chip that looks like a current sense on the ground it looks like they went to a lot of trouble to connect it at the entry point. You could have filed a Groove for a wire in the plastic of the terminal block or use some very thin copper foil.
Thanks David! I think because it is just for identification and not precise measurement it was ok to connect it the way that I did. I thought of using a foil as you say but I couldn’t see how to connect it to to barrel of the thru hole connection.
@@KissAnalog not too sure if identification would be tied to the same pin ground.
I'd love to see how that Hioki compares to other high-end meters with regards to measurements. The Fluke 87V is very fast at measuring capacitance for example and I wonder if the Hioki is just as fast.
Thank you! The Fluke 87V is very fast at capacitance measurements, but I’m not sure it is as accurate as some other high-end meters. I have done some side by side measurements - I think in my LCR video. I do want to compare the high end meters side by side and now that I have a great LCR meter, I can check accuracy as well as show the speed. Thanks for asking for this;)
Thanks for all the info. Where did you buy the "FLUKE 89-4-8002" input?
Thanks for asking! Here is a link to a better terminal block than I purchased. I think this one must have come out since I purchased mine: ebay.us/6LIiwH
@@KissAnalog Thanks. But why do you think this one should be better?
Good point about the term, 'lifetime warranty'. It's a weasle word term. When it was originally used it meant the lifetime of the human who bought it. Now it means the lifetime of the product which of course is subjective. They put their heads together and decide how long the product should last, 5 - 10 years or whatever it is, and that's it. So it's safe to suppose that it's better than the 30 - 60 - 90 day warranties, but not a whole lot better.
I liked the 'forever' warranties on tools like craftsman back in the day. I got to test it. I took a craftsman box wrench that I had that was handed down from my grandfather. The box part of the wrench cracked and I took it to the local sears and they replaced it no questions asked.
Great point and example! Craftsman was what we think of as lifetime. Fluke does put 'Limited' right after 'Lifetime', but most people forget to say this part. For how expensive they are - they should have long warranties! IMHO;)
@@KissAnalog: YES! I agree. When we hear "LIFETIME", every person who ever bought a CRAFTSMAN tool knows what that means and how it works. I believe that FLUKE only covers the original buyer, and they had a lot of issues with the supercap leaking in the 189 and 289, and I'm sure the bean counters love distancing the company from skeletons like that with tricky lawyer-language.
That Fluke really is a parts meter now given its condition. Get another one like it in better condition and this one could provide it with good electronic replacement parts as needed.
Thank you! These meters are so old now that I will never buy another one. There are just too many better options today. Technology just keeps getting better. Here is one fantastic example: ua-cam.com/video/mvySfmW3nZs/v-deo.html
You are welcome sir, and yes I have never owned Fluke only because I don't need anything that high-end for my basic electronics work. Almost any meter under the sun would serve me well since I do low power stuff pretty much exclusively. My Sunday best meter is a Greenlee DM-20 and it is very good!@@KissAnalog
Removing that banana jack header would have been MUCH easier and less risky to the pads if you used low-melt solder. That stuff is awesome for tricky tasks that involve lots of pins, plastic parts and sensitive pads. Also, pad restoration IS a DIY thing these days, and perfect for that FLUKE to make a nearly invisible repair. But, i prefer enameled copper when a jumper is a must; the plastic insulation looked bulky and crowded in your application. My 2¢
Thanks for the tip! I think it was the epoxy that pulled the pad off. The pads without epoxy were fine.
My sound on my fluke 189 is not working can you do a video on how to fix this. Thanks
Thanks for asking! Did it work before or did you buy it this way?
When my display became scratched, I polished out the scratches with diamond paste and elbow grease. (Apply the elbow grease gently but generously.) Start with a coarser diamond paste (e.g. 3.0) for deeper scratches, then polish with 1.0. It worked well for me, but try it at your own risk.
Thanks for that feedback! I did pick up a 3 bottle kit that is supposed to be able to start course and work to finer particles to buff out scratches.
There are 3d print files for the 187 / 189 tilt stand available on the interwebs.. also you can just remove the super cap and leave it out... it is just for keeping clock and log data when batteries are out..
Thank you! I bet someone could make a living out of selling 3d parts for these meters and for the 87;)
Hi Kiss Analog
my fluke 187 has a problem in ohm meter function. It is unstable example if I mesure resistor 10Kohm 1% but it's running around 8K to 11K. Any suggestion for this problem.
thank you
Thanks for asking! Have you opened it up? I'd be interested if there is a loose connection on the terminals of the banana jacks to the PCB. Then I'd look for any discoloring on the PCB around resistors. There could be a resistor that has been damaged.
Hello, I have a faulty Fluke 189 according to what Fluke's technical support says it has a faulty control ic, I would like to know the ic frequency and where it is soldered to the fluke, if you can help me, I would appreciate it Kiss Analog I'm from Portugal
Thanks for asking. if you look at the crystal oscillator in the pix it will show the frequency. When you get the control IC it will be obvious where it goes. Can you tell us what they sell for IC for?
@@KissAnalog Hi, the Fluke 189 is already discontinued, the IC is broken and the Fluke 2000 is not for sale anywhere on the internet.
Hi Ed. What's the difference between the 189 and the 789?
Thanks for asking! I'll have to do a video on this - the 189 is the champ;)
I've bought a few Fluke meters and Thermometers from Ebay, and your right, its hit and miss. For my meters, one had both fuses blown, one had one fuse blown and reeked of cigarette smoke. Fluke Thermometers, one had a cracked case by the display, and one had had a bad battery leak at one time. This seller sells 'refurbished' Flukes, and once I sent him pics of the damage and leaked fluid inside, he refunded me a portion of what I paid, or I could have returned it. It was an easy clean up, as no circuit board was under the battery compartment, just the keyboard. All of these worked fine once I replaced fuses (both sellers paid for the fuses), and the thermometers are fine. So ya, buyer beware, and get the seller to pay for repairs or return it if its not disclosed in the listing!
Thanks for this great feedback! Yes, check out your purchase right away and thoroughly, so you can give the seller feedback before it is too late.
@@KissAnalog I would also note that all these issues were reported to the sellers PRIOR to leaving them feedback. No one wants negative feedback.
So, over the years, I've bought 7 Flukes on Ebay, multimeters and Thermometers. 4 of the 7 had issues, so be careful out there!
Interesting video, and well-made. It is strange to see how bad Fluke in fact is when you think of its reputation. You can get meters that outperform the Fluke by miles and costs 1/3 - 1/2 of the Fluke.
IP 67 means the meter can stay underwater permanently and would be clean inside after a sand storm.
I am wondering if you maybe could make a video bout antistatic mats, wristbands and so on, and how to use it on top level.
Hope you get well soon!! :-)
Thanks so much!! I think that's a great idea! Great to see you back!
I assume you mean brands like Brymen. But they were hardly around 15 years ago, the era of this Fluke. (Well they were but outside the normal sales circuit).
Their popularity has mainly been on the rise the last 10 years.
Top brands that delivered similar quality back then (arguably) like metrawatt, hp/agilent etc were also similar priced back then.
@@mrpetit2 Fluke was some of the absolute best back then, they had great test leads, consistent quality ad was properly top of the range. But in the last 10 years has other brands (even bad brands) fast overtaken Fluke.
So comparable has their quality skydived towards the ground, their test leads are also been reduced to some bad plastic, one of the first thing you trow out. Flukes specifications are now below average.
Their "lifetime guarantee" it reduced, their "calibration" has nothing to do with calibration at all and in general do you get below the original quality while all other brands has developed, innovated and outperformed Fluke. And still is Fluke, what most US people consider the best! :-)
@@KissAnalog Thank you so much, it is great to be back! :-)
Please please please
What is your favourite multimeter overall brand
Thanks - great question! For high-end multimeters - I really like the Hioki DT4282.
Nice rantpair video :-)
Thank you!
thank you, so much beautiful 👍👌🙏💯💯💯
Thank you!
My guess is that most of your dust ingress has more to do with the missing half of the one input jack’s shroud. Another guess is that the IR shield is broken how it is due to someone in the past trying to torque it open instead of going straight up. Easy habit to have if one has taken many more 87s etc. apart before doing their first 18X.
Thanks for your feedback! The broken shroud could have let more dust in, but the IR Shield did look perfect until I pulled it out and the broken part fell off. But when it was in even with the broken part missing - it is still pretty tight. Even with the shrouds in tact, there is gaps between the upper housing and the PCB with the the shrouds. Also, the PCB is exposed in the battery compartment and the battery compartment housing isn't very tight. I think a lot of it depends on where it is used;)
I’m waiting on you to give us some information on the new Simpson DDM multimeter!!! Like who makes them where are they made are they quality like the old Simpson analog meters
Thanks Michael! I'll have to look into this. I do have an old simpson analog meter that I can use for a comparison;)
@@KissAnalog that would be great I love the old Simpson analog meters. And would like to know about the new Simpson DMM’s. Thinking about buying one but can’t really find no information on them
Hello, good afternoon. I have a fluke 189 that does not check voltage. Could you help me? I would send it to you by FedEx or UPS, thanks.
Thanks for the great question. Let me see if we can troubleshoot it together first. Does it read resistance or continuity? Will it read current on the 10A input? Did it work for you before and then stop working? Or did you buy it or maybe given this not working? If it was working - what happened that made it stop working?
Seems like it is worthwhile to buy dead Flukes to dissemble & sell for individual parts.
LOL - I think that would not be a bad business model:)
Yes please do a video of this
PRODIGY Kiss Anulog
Thanks 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK
You Bet! Thank you!
Using the Japanese Hioki super-meter to fix the fluke... sounds about right.
LOl it sure does;)
Can you do a review of Tektronix TX3?
Thanks for asking! I'll do that very soon;)
WOW THE hIOKI DT4282 is $900 how does it compare with the Brymen BM869s
Wow - what country are you in? Here in the US, Amazon has them for $431.64; amzn.to/3AJybE1
With an ESP8266 (ESP01 or ESP01S) and a pair of RX/TX IR diodes you can make this meter even better with a website display on your phone or PC via WiFi.
Do you know what the difference is between the 189 and the 89IV? On the outside they are exactly the same.
Thanks for the fantastic question!! This is a bit of an enigma;) I think it might help support my theory that they were afraid of these models replacing the 87 (which is accepted by many defense contractors as a meter that they can buy without having to go thru the justification process - IMHO). The 89IV came out in 1999, and then was replaced or changed to the 189 (so putting it in a different series - separating it from the 87). So in 2000 they came out with the 189 and the new 87 V (where they say/admit that the 189 has 20 more features). This probably felt safe, but then they killed the 189 (maybe I'm wrong - maybe it was because of the super poor stand design). BTW, if you look at Fluke's history statement of their multimeters - the 89IV is left off the list;) Also, I believe the Tektronix multimeters were used for the 80 series design. Tektronix and Fluke were both purchased by the same company, so their multimeters were in competition - and of course there are so many that buy Fluke without thought of comparing them to anyone else, so Tek lost their multimeters.
@@KissAnalog Thanks for the elaborate answer! When you mentioned Fluke omitted the 87IV on their history list I think you're right about something 'shady' had been going on with this series indeed.
By the way, I replaced that super capacitor in mine because it had started to leak. I though about getting rid of it completely since I believe it's only used for keeping time between battery changes (as it is with the 289).
@@KissAnalog Excellent information and equally great Fluke 189 repair job Eddie! I hope that you get to feeling better soon. Fred
Someone at Fluke told me years ago that my 189 lifetime warranty was 8 years. Mine is hardly used and looks like new.
Thanks for that info! That was probably correct. I think they give 7 years after last manufacture date, so if they made them for one year then 7 more would be 8 years. Still good - but for an expensive meter it is appropriate.
Cut that faulty connector with dremel is the best ideat to uninstall from board.
If it wasn't that it was a 189 - I'd probably use a sludge hammer;)
You should give a video on the behind the scenes government politics on the stacks of Fluke test equipment. Like on a Navy ship in the 60s they would throw unopened cases of new wrenches over when coming into port. Why? If we don't then they cut our budget down for next time out. 🤣 anyway great video and Fluke 189 is cool and UT181A Bluetooth. thanks.
PS... I have on order an ebay: Digital Multimeter HP-770D Auto Range 40000 Counts DMM BarGraph Continuity Tester Meter for $57 Mmm I wonder if it is any good? 🧐 get well. 🥰
Thanks for your feedback!! I appreciate you!!
Battery terminals are rubbish as well but ebay sellers have them.
Yeah - buying old meters that can be 20 years old - there's lots of things that can come as surprises. Also the parts are not cheep;)
That 189 had a hard life before coming to live with you.
It sure did;) I think this is a better home for it - in its retirement years;)
Whoever sold that thing should be named and shamed imho. Usernamed, that is. Awful. Especially with zero of two fuses being correct.
The newer version of the input block appears to have shouldered pins. Don’t look like you version does.
Do you wear an ankle strap? Didn’t see a bracelet for the ESD precautions you mentioned when firing up the iron. Been thinking about going the ankle route lately.
A coworker taught me to always start a desoldering task by adding fresh solder. You’ve been in this space for a long time so you I’d imagine you’ve heard it.
Thanks - you never know what you get when you buy used. The seller might have been re-selling it as well. I think you are right about the new block. I bought mine a long time ago - right after I bought the meter, but it took me awhile to get around to doing this video.
I touch metal on my bench before I touch a board or components, but I don't strap as that is not safe around power equipment. I should have a solder bench where all that is done, but I'm having a tough time finding the space right now. I do wet the tip and then clean most of it off when I'm going to use a solder sucker, but then I get it more wet when soldering. You get a good feel for this after a while. Wetting the tip helps transfer the heat.
Yes that meter really needs to have the horizontal fuse replaced. It looks as though someone has fitted a 1A fuse (BLS 1) where there should be a 440mA one, sometimes marked 44/100. I noticed this straight away because the fitted fuse is red and the correct type are usually blue. The other fuse should indeed be an 11A one (usually green), although the 10A one will be OK provided it has the correct voltage rating and operating speed.
Man, somebody really brutalized that Fluke, Eddie.
True! It looked good in pictures;)
Boy, they don't give these things away!!!
No they don’t;) thanks for your feedback!
wow that meter has had a rough life, hard to find plastic not cracked, and I am waiting for a 289 from ebay right now, probably be a piece of shiff like that one, after I made the bid I saw the faults with the 289. bad battery life ,the leaking capacitor, both of which I was shocked, thought fluke was so good but now I think there a bunch of greedy f cks like everyone else, should have bought the dt4282
The Hioki meter is a great meter! Since I started this channel - I have found a number of meters that I'd buy before overspending on a FLUKE. I'm so disappointed that Fluke hasn't tried to compete or even keep up. I still love my 189 but I wouldn't buy another - and the 289 is my least favorite meter and most over priced - IMHO;)
@@KissAnalog understood, my meter did show up the other day perfect condition no cracks, all intact I have a capacitor on the way digikey #rscsk204d01004t took all day to find that part seems to be an exact replacement 200 nf-3.3volts same configuration as original supposedly. with flukes reputation I was surprised no manual, I understand the new versions of the 289 have a battery instead of the bad capacitor
I have heard that the battery is not a great option as it leaks and can ruin the board where the capacitor doesn't typically cause damage. I need to check my 189...
So what’s wrong with a fluke 289 ? I own one been a great meter and better than them cheap shit ones people use. At the end of the day I do lots of electronics repairs and you use high quality tools for the job.
Thanks for asking! IMHO the 289 is too big and clumsy with a terrible stand. It goes thru batteries too fast, so you really need to use rechargeable batteries so you are not polluting the environment. I also think the display is not great and I don't like the menus where some common functions have been moved to and now take extra steps to use them.
There are lots of great high quality meters that are not 16 year old technology that needs an opto coupled cable to read from. Bluetooth makes logging and watching measurements remotely so much better and the apps are free and don't require a monthly subscription.
I've reviewed a number of meters that I like better than my 289, and they cost about half the price of the bloated 289. The 289 is not as high quality as some of my other meters IMHO. The Hioki is a great example: amzn.to/3ZJmJ5P
@@KissAnalog what you on about 289 is a very high quality meter, top of its class and them over meters you talk meter are just cheap Chinese rubbish with unbranded components in them. I know this because I spend most of my time repairing cheap Chinese rubbish. But when it comes to getting things dead right you need spot on tools to do the job. I want a meter that will last not drift out,etc. I use some of these cheaper meter and ok for normal stuff but when it comes to being precise then they are no good. Sorry fluke puts these meters to shame. Also don’t matter on its age,etc I want a meter that is dead on with reading not out like cheaper.
@michaelmitchell8218; Here is a list of High quality multimeters that cost a fraction of Fluke and are arguably made just as well if not better (some with higher IP ratings), and are all safety certified by 3rd party. I'll list a number of them just to show how many meters are better options IMHO.
Hioki DT4282 meter that I mentioned is not Chinese, it is Japanese and is better than FLUKE in every way. There's no place that the 289 is better IMHO. Link to DT4281 amzn.to/3mMf6gN
Flir DM93 has blue tooth and again is better in every way than the 289 IMHO. It is an american company that has the same limited lifetime warranty as the 289.
IDEAL industries makes another awesome meter that is a US company (I think older than FLUKE, and is still owned by IDEAL where FLUKE sold out to Danaher): amzn.to/3Ju0XgZ
AMPROBE is an American company around as long as FLUKE - also owned by the same company as FLUKE and this meter is a high-end meter with dB and 10k count and is less than half the price of the 289: amzn.to/3YzNgS4
Greenlee another American company, although I think their multimeter is a rebadged Brymen that is very well respected meter made in Taiwan: amzn.to/420383j
Extech is an American firm now owned by FLIR (above) amzn.to/3JclntG
Southwire Tools is another American company that has been around since the 1950s and makes excellent durable multimeters: amzn.to/4272wJa
CEM is a chinese mfg, but is arguably just as solid or more than a Fluke meter in every way. This is a 50k count high-end meter: amzn.to/3JbdDbf
UEi an American company that just celebrated their 50 year anniversary, this is another awesome meter with Bluetooth: amzn.to/3mFskvz
Sanwa is another very well respected meter from Japan: amzn.to/3ZH7OJB
I see brand new 189 from China...I do not think they are real..though
Wow - I haven’t seen those. I’m surprised that Fluke doesn’t sue them.
OMG
Thank you!
10000% bla bla bla for a simple change banana plugs🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Sorry you didn't like it...You put a lot of effort to say that you didn't like it. Makes us eve;)
Hahaha
For God's sake, invest in proper vacuum solder removal tool!
LOL - I got the job done though right?