This was very informative. I've bought this card too. I'm looking forward to your waterblock video. Even if you can't recover your footage, I'd welcome you talking about it on film, or writing a post about it somewhere.
Great job on this video. You're teardown and great commentary convinced me to buy this card. Especially liked your comments about the capacitors, build quality, and proximity of VRMs to RAM. Quality Stuff. Just work on your volume levels and you'll have a great channel on your hands.
Thanks for the video! I have the same card and through undervolting I managed to get it 12 ° C cooler while increasing its performance! A really good card!
@@niekasniekas2614 Hello! it varies depending on the game and the setting. I now have water cooling for this graphics card, so that I could test something else. It is currently undervolted with 1920mHz and 856 mV, which is extremely stable! Consumption is for example: Dying Light 2, ultra settings, WQHD, frame limiter at 100fps ~ 300W. COD MW2, ultra Settings,WQHD,142 FPS ~250W. and currently Atomic Heart,ultra Setting, WQHD, frame limiter at 100 fps ~250W.
so glad to have just bought this exact revel card, the size quality and the fact that it has an 8 pin which i already have a wire for; also On top that i woulda spent and extra 150 on that msi card. Thanks for your video bro!
no problem! glad it helped someone. i rolled the dice on this not knowing what to expect. while this card has some shortcomings, for my use case i think it's fine. after recording this video i noticed that the line filtering caps behind the GPU are a lot smaller in capacity than what some other cards are offering. at stock is still be fine and performs in line with other cards at stock settings, BUT, this card is NOT meant for overclocking at all.
@@solomonshv I’ve got a stable +105 core and +800 memory. Boosts up to 2050mhz stable. I got to +240 in TimeSpy but it wasn’t stable in games. I could probably push the memory further but it I didn’t feel like taking the time. All without touching voltage, by the way.
Thanks for this upload. I just orderd this card and it was theonly one awalable where I am.. never heardof PNY before. Now my mind is at ease. Looking forward to you follow up video, since I would also like to water cool it.
PNY is nvidia's oldest partner. PNY makes all quadro and tesla cards for nvidia. if you buy a fully loaded $20,000 lenovo/dell/hp high end workstation, it will have PNY GPUs in it.
Hey I have the same 3090 XLR8 Revel card, was thinking of replacing the thermal pads with the Thermal Grizzly Minus pad 8, do you know how much thickness would be required for this specific card ? 2.5mm or 3mm? also, is it safe to use thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste on the main GPU chip on front?
@@tomfalch8992 I ordered the Thermal Grizzly 1mm pads as I heard on reddit that anything above 1mm is not going to conduct - will keep you posted once I get 'em.
@@moronsaas2777 Thanks a bunch! Looking forward to hearing about how it turns out:) I have a feeling that the minus pad 8 pads will make a difference for sure.
sorry. The customer who i built this for wanted it immediately and i didn't get a chance to make that video. i stayed up until 4am to finish it, and he picked it up first thing in the morning, a week ahead of the agreed-upon delivery day.
@@solomonshv thanks for the reply anyway! I just did a full service on mine yesterday with Thermal Grizzly pads and it is already a significant improvement comapred to the 2 .5 year old hardenned stuff.
anyone knows the difference between PNY 3080ti revel vs uprising? I saw reddit post that says it has 6 pipelines vs 4, 2mlcc vs 1. but I couldn't find any teardown nor benchmark
Revel models have a higher MAXIMUM power target. the default power target is the same for both cards. in theory, this means the revel models should overlock higher, but that will be determined by silicon lottery. this is true for 3080, 3080 ti, 3090. the hardware is identical on the uprising and revel models, both are reference nvidia designs. people on the internet like to make shit up, ignore it. side note, you can turn your uprising card into a revel by flashing the BIOS from the revel to the uprising.
@@solomonshv but official web site also says they are different. Revel is 11.57 x 4.41" x 2.20"; 2.7-Slot Uprising is 12.48" x 4.53" x 2.36"; 3-Slot slot. exactly as that reddit post says. That indicates they have different cooling hardware. are you positive that they have same cooling?
@@aslanyureky the cooler is the only difference. the cooler on the revel is slightly better, but not enough to make a difference in performance of the card. the PCBs are still identical. they are both using the same nvidia reference PCBs.
@@aslanyureky I haven an uprising instead of a revel. Literally the only difference so far that I've spotted is the cooler and the ARGB feature on the revel model. The uprising has RGB that just cycles with no modification. Otherwise, the cards are, from my understanding, effectively the same.
Thanks for the review am. Interested in the 3080 of the same Gpu what i do like how its not to big and looking good quality and only 2x 8 pin So do think the PNY GeForce RTX 3080 10GB XLR8 Gaming REVEL EPIC-X RGB could be good choice? Just i want say its only the Gpu what i could have in the market at the moment Also this Gpu are so close to Gainward GeForce RTX 3080 Phoenix and PALIT GEFORCE RTX 3080 GAMINGPRO Did they come from the same manufactur because Palit seems to be good Gpu for me
the best 3090 models are founder edition, asus tuf and asus strix. they all have monolithic power systems smart voltage controllers. if you can get one of those models, get it. other cards, like this PNY, all MSI cards, all gigatrash cards, all zotac models use the outdated UP9511 and UP9512 voltage controllers, made by uPI. they are inferior in every way. no specific brand is better than all other brands. each generation of GPUs is different. during the RTX 3000 generation GPUs, asus were the best partner models, way better than other models. for RTX 4000 series, MSI is better than other brands.
that's not ESD. lol. i'm using an electric screwdriver. i accidentally pushed the forward button. there is an LED flash at the front as well, that's where the light came from. when working on very small screws, i avoid using the motor and tighten/loosen by hand to avoid stripping the thread
@@solomonshv gotcha. looked like a huge spark to me and with such an expensive component it definitely startled me. Having a big hot spot issue on my card, like the thermal paste got cracks in it or something after pulling it out and putting it back in a few times for a hard drive issue. Was thinking about replacing the thermal pads, but I'm very paranoid about ESD after work training and the paranoia primed me to see what I feared. And it seems like ESD doesn't bite people with hundreds of hours of no precautions. But in the off chance I fried my card, I don't think I'd be happy being out over a grand in a moment I didn't even recognize happened. Don't even expect to see a spark in most ESD events, so thinking I saw one was... shocking.
there is a separate RGB header on there. if you unplug it, RGB will turn off. the RGB header is in the back of the card, under the rear 8-pin power connector.
Thanks for the video, it's just what i was looking for. Just one question, because you did not show it: Is there more thermal padding on the backplate besides the 12 ram modules? i mean are the vrm's also taped to the backplate, or just the memory modules?
the rear of the PNY card only had thermal pads on the memory, nowhere else. other cards that i've taken apart had thermal pads on the VRM too. HOWEVER, it is important to note that the other cards i took apart had SMD SP-CAPs on the back to accompany the ones in the front, whereas the PNY did not. and that's probably why there was no thermal pads there.
lol. it's called a "wowstick". they use to be $35 with 3 of those tubes full of various bits. along with a bunch of other accessories. i had mine for over 6 years now. i built and disassembled hundreds of GPUs, laptops and computers with it, built many custom keyboards. never had an issue with it and i always have the right bit. it even has nintendo specific bits. it went up in price to about $50, but you can find clones that may or may not be as good for as little as $15. here is a legit wowstick with all the bits: www.amazon.com/Ruputas-Precision-Screwdriver-Rechargeable-Electronics/dp/B07DB7ZT5P/ here is a knock off for about $15 ($20 minus $5 coupon) www.amazon.com/WOWSTICK-Screwdriver-Precision-Rechargeable-Automatic/dp/B09GJLDBK4/
@@solomonshv Thanks a bunch. I do a lot of electronics work and I could really use something like that. While we are talking, do you have any regrets about the PNY card? If you could do it all over again, would you choose a different card?
@@lightspeedlegato it was purchased for a customer build. they still use it and they don't have any issues with it. we picked this card because they wanted a small form factor build PC. at the time most 3090 PCBs were massive and wouldn't fit into their desired case. the founder's edition card had that stupid 12-pin connector so we couldn't use that either. in our case, it was the best fit for the build. but if you are not space constrained, i would no recommend this card. get something better, like the tuf or strix. tuf and strix cards have the best boards or any 30 series cards. for the 40 series, the msi suprim are the best boards.
That’s because no one does that mod. I’ve built close to 300 customer PCs in 2020 alone (that’s why I have so many 3080s and 3090s just laying around). Not a single person even inquired about it. It’s not worth the effort and it voids the warranty on your $1000-$2000 GPU.
@@solomonshvdeshroud mod aside I still don’t know why people taking the time to film themselves pulling a card apart on YT wouldn’t take the extra few minutes to remove fans, show the manufacturer details should someone need a replacement and also how the heatsink looks for mods down the track when fans potentially fail.
What are the dimensions of the card once you remove the cooler? And can you tell me what screw driver bits you used to disassemble it and that screw driver too. Thanks
Great video! Can you do another to show how to take the fans apart to clean the heatsink? I couldn't figure out how to take the fan out and expose the heatsink. Thanks man.
this was for a client build. i put this computer together a long time ago and sent it across the country. it should be pretty easy to clean with an air compressor or leaf blower. no need to take it apart
When you say the third PCI-E 8 pin connector doesn't do anything on the Gaming X Trio, do you mean most of the power is drawn from the first 2 ports? So if you have only 2 8 pin PCIE outputs on your PSU (and PSU cables have 8-pin Y-splitters for 4 sets of 8 pin outputs), would you suggest connecting alternating PSU outputs to the PCIE 8 pin inputs? (i.e. PSU cable 1 - GPU 8pin input 1, PSU cable 2 - GPU 8pin input 2, PSU cable 1 split output - GPU input 3?) Thanks
on the 3090 trio, the BIOS is limited to 380W if you max out the power target. there are cards with only 2 plugs that have the same or even higher power limits with only 2 connectors. for example, the gigabyte 3090 eagle OC has a 385W limit with only 2 connectors. the 3rd power connector is just a decoration, a marketing gimmick. even if you flash the card with a 500W BIOS, the TRIO will not be any faster in day to day use. once you hit around 2000MHz on any 3090, the cards become increasingly unstable. another issue with MSI cards specifically is the VRM design. it is comically bad. on modern cards, the GPU die is flanked by the VRM from 2 or more sides. this is done to deliver power evenly across the entire power plane. MSI cards, ALL of them, have an inch long gap between the GPU die and the right bank of the VRM. which means that MSI cards specifically will become less stable faster compared to any other cards as voltage goes up.
@@solomonshv Ok so you are just saying in terms of theoretical maximum. My questions is more in terms of load balancing. I thought you meant the third connector literally does nothing, but what you mean is it *adds* nothing in terms of power budget. So in that case I'm guessing in practice they all draw power evenly and if you only have 2 PCI-E PSU cables it doesn't matter which order the 8 pin connectors you connect to on the card itself then. I thought you were referring to functionality of that PCIE port specifically.
@@derelictmusic3218 i'm using a corsair AX1600i PSU, it has digital readout for power draws from each connector. the 3rd connector was not doing much at any point. and even if it did load balance across the 3 plugs, it won't matter unless you have an old AF multi 12V rail PSU. those are rare these days. if it's a single 12V rail PSU, all the power is coming from the same place and the cables are more than capable of handling it. in the end, the msi trio was not any faster than this reference PNY card and was slower than the asus 3090 tuf and strix. both of which i currently have on hand.
@@solomonshv Since you have both cards, can you comment on how loud the cards are? Since AFAIK all the Ampere cards now have fixed 30% minimum fan speed. Is the Gaming X Trio significantly quieter than the PNY? I think PNY XLR8 cards have a reputation for being noisy even at low settings.
alphacool aurora. i ordered mine from germany and it's stuck in customs. meanwhile, performancePCs restocked it. i should have just waited a few days and i would have already had it in hand. here is a link if you want to check it out: www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/water-blocks/water-blocks-vga/alphacool-eisblock-aurora-plexi-gpx-n-rtx-3090-3080-with-backplate-reference.html
@@mrdanky5545 it's working fine. i recorded a video of me installing it but the video file was corrupted somehow. i'll try to fix it later. EK is a rip off. you'll be paying $200+ for block and back plate. alphacool includes the backplate at $135-$145, depending which block you take. i used EK religiously in the past, but stopped when they raised their prices through the roof.
@@solomonshv thanks for the reply. Unfortunately too late I stuck a vector block and back plate on. I’m happy with the results, not the price. I’m scoring 15000 on port royal now with 1000w vbios on the pny 3090
@@solomonshv I wonder if active cooling of the other side of the card is required or if passive cooling is enough. Would it be good to install a water block or is it already redundant?
Thanks for the video, really helpful! Have you had a chance to compare with Palit GamingPro variant of the ref pcb? Now choosing between them to put waterblock on them
hello. unfortunately palit cards are not available in north america. but i think they should be exactly the same because they are both nvidia refence boards. i know they use the same voltage controllers, inductors. it's possible that they use different brand bulk capacitors (nichicon, rubycon, panasonic) but that will not make a difference for performance. it's also worth noting that sometimes you can have the same model GPU from the same brand that use different brand capacitors due to the supply shortage. i had asus 3070 tuf cards that used different brand capacitors even though they were the same exact part number.
@@solomonshv I see, thanks again! Palit is also known as Galax, Gainward and KFA2. I was worried they may have some quality tiers in the brands so use better/more components in some products and not the others
Great vid. I just have one question, Does anyone here know a way to mod the RGB so that it can actually sync with the motherboard? I have the 3070 version of this card, But OCD is a thing and I want everything to at least somewhat match. I know where the cable is and stuff but I dont know if i can just get an adapter and plug in the 3 pin cuz It'' probably either fry it or not turn on.
you have to take apart the card, disconnect the RGB cable and add an extension cable to the RGB cable with an RGB connector on the end that will fit your computer. with this card, it's the only way
@@solomonshv do you know what kind of connector it would need to be? I have 5v 3 pin connectors on my stuff but idk what kinda cable it is considered from the gpu’s lights
I think it's funny you say it's a plus to have normal connectors like the 12 pin 3. Umm this is going to be used more often as it can pull more from it. Imo it's not cool that it doesn't have that option lol.
your comment is very hard to follow. the first sentence is a doozy. as for pulling more power, that's the one single thing i did NOT want for this project because this computer was about the size of a playstation. i actually tuned this card to pull less power while retaining out of the box performance.
@@solomonshv if something is asking for more power or needs power then it's best to be able to give it to it. It's how you get the best performance out of it. Would be different if it didn't need it or ask for it. So using those would give you what you need. The way you worded it like oh it's a plus that it doesn't come with or have an option for one is ridiculous. It would be better to have the option.
the MSI card. i'm not a fan of the MSI cards this gen, they went lazy on the VRMs, but the trio X is still a little better than the other two. the cooler on the trio x is A LOT better than the other two.
it's called wowstick, there are 100 listings+ for it on amazon and aliexpress. here is one amazon link: www.amazon.com/Wowstick-Electric-Screwdriver-Cordless-Lithium-ion/dp/B07H27G9NF/ it use to be $35, but went up recently. probably due to the tariffs. it comes with 50 different bits, a little maker's pad, a magnetizer, and some other junk
man, could you please help me choosing the right card, I write down my choices: These are the 3070 Tis : Asus Strix Asus Tuf Msi gamingX trio Zotac AmpHolo Gigabyte gaming oc Zotac Trinity PNY EpicX I'm leaning toward the Msi gamigX trio and asus tuf. Which one do you think gives higher hashrate, better quality and better thermals?
short version: asus tuf if the best out of the bunch, by a million miles. long version: the zotac and the PNY cards are reference PCBs. they are the bare minimum that nvidia will allow vendors to put the nvidia logo on. avoid zotac at all costs. PNY is ok, but only if you are specifically looking for a reference PCB to make a small form factor water cooled build. gigabyte gaming OC and msi trio are small upgrades from a reference card with a higher power limit. they have extra power phases/capacitors to allow them to eat more power, but they retain the 8 phase voltage controller and most of the design the asus tuf is nothing like the reference card. the voltage controller is upgraded from an 8 phase to a 10 phase digital controller. asus also adds high end SMD capacitors on the back of the card for more power capacity and lower response times. the exact benchmark scores are dependent on silicon lottery. so it's possible that you can get an msi or gigabyte card that is faster than the asus, but that's not something anyone can predict. however, the asus card will be easier to tune and will last longer.
How has this GPU treated you? What kind of thermals are you getting using it? I have an incredible opportunity to buy one for $500 on the used market locally.
it has been good. in the current custom water cooling loop the temps typically stay in the 30s when gaming. never more than 42*C. but it only gets that high after many hours of a demanding game, like heavily modded skyrim or cyberpunk. no complaints
gaming performance is about the same at stock. i don't stream but i can't imagine why there would be a difference between the two. the msi card can go a little faster (2-3%) with the new BIOS, but the new BIOS increases the power draw from 340W to 450W+. it's fucking stupid. it will turn your room into a sauna during long gaming sessions.
it's an nvidia reference card. asus, msi, pny, gainward, galax and almost every other brand make this identical card. they are all identical. the exceptions are zotac and gigabyte. they make cards that are worse than the reference design to save some money. gigabyte made the "gaming", "windforce" and "vision" cards. they are all identical card with different color coolers. and they are all worse than this reference card.
yea, the zotac cards suck. they use the bare minimum that nvidia will allow. the line filtering is not only extremely limited in terms of capacitance, but it also has really slow transient response times. they really scraped the bottom of the barrel. the zotac cards will still work, but for the prices they are asking, you can get something much better if you hold out.
This was very informative. I've bought this card too.
I'm looking forward to your waterblock video. Even if you can't recover your footage, I'd welcome you talking about it on film, or writing a post about it somewhere.
Great job on this video. You're teardown and great commentary convinced me to buy this card. Especially liked your comments about the capacitors, build quality, and proximity of VRMs to RAM. Quality Stuff. Just work on your volume levels and you'll have a great channel on your hands.
Thanks for the video! I have the same card and through undervolting I managed to get it 12 ° C cooler while increasing its performance! A really good card!
how are you reach that result?
@@Thunderbolt0883 1815mhz / 812 mV by MSI afterburner!
@@Vidar676How much power does it draw with that undervolt?
@@niekasniekas2614 Hello! it varies depending on the game and the setting. I now have water cooling for this graphics card, so that I could test something else. It is currently undervolted with 1920mHz and 856 mV, which is extremely stable! Consumption is for example: Dying Light 2, ultra settings, WQHD, frame limiter at 100fps ~ 300W. COD MW2, ultra Settings,WQHD,142 FPS ~250W. and currently Atomic Heart,ultra Setting, WQHD, frame limiter at 100 fps ~250W.
@@Vidar676 Thank you for your honest answer.So it does't consume above 300w?
so glad to have just bought this exact revel card, the size quality and the fact that it has an 8 pin which i already have a wire for; also On top that i woulda spent and extra 150 on that msi card. Thanks for your video bro!
Just bought this card and this video was very informative, thank you!
no problem! glad it helped someone. i rolled the dice on this not knowing what to expect. while this card has some shortcomings, for my use case i think it's fine. after recording this video i noticed that the line filtering caps behind the GPU are a lot smaller in capacity than what some other cards are offering. at stock is still be fine and performs in line with other cards at stock settings, BUT, this card is NOT meant for overclocking at all.
@@solomonshv I’ve got a stable +105 core and +800 memory. Boosts up to 2050mhz stable.
I got to +240 in TimeSpy but it wasn’t stable in games.
I could probably push the memory further but it I didn’t feel like taking the time.
All without touching voltage, by the way.
@@solomonshv Do you think this card is suitable for Etherium mining?
For memory overclocking?
Thanks for this upload. I just orderd this card and it was theonly one awalable where I am.. never heardof PNY before. Now my mind is at ease. Looking forward to you follow up video, since I would also like to water cool it.
PNY is nvidia's oldest partner. PNY makes all quadro and tesla cards for nvidia. if you buy a fully loaded $20,000 lenovo/dell/hp high end workstation, it will have PNY GPUs in it.
Hey I have the same 3090 XLR8 Revel card, was thinking of replacing the thermal pads with the Thermal Grizzly Minus pad 8, do you know how much thickness would be required for this specific card ? 2.5mm or 3mm? also, is it safe to use thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste on the main GPU chip on front?
i want to do the same with mine 3080 Pny Revel
that card is a beast and i wanna maximize performance
Hi. Did either of you figure it out? Thanx!
@@tomfalch8992 I ordered the Thermal Grizzly 1mm pads as I heard on reddit that anything above 1mm is not going to conduct - will keep you posted once I get 'em.
@@moronsaas2777 Cool, i'll order the 1mm as well then!
@@moronsaas2777 Thanks a bunch! Looking forward to hearing about how it turns out:) I have a feeling that the minus pad 8 pads will make a difference for sure.
any followup on the waterblock maybe?
sorry. The customer who i built this for wanted it immediately and i didn't get a chance to make that video. i stayed up until 4am to finish it, and he picked it up first thing in the morning, a week ahead of the agreed-upon delivery day.
@@solomonshv thanks for the reply anyway! I just did a full service on mine yesterday with Thermal Grizzly pads and it is already a significant improvement comapred to the 2 .5 year old hardenned stuff.
anyone knows the difference between PNY 3080ti revel vs uprising? I saw reddit post that says it has 6 pipelines vs 4, 2mlcc vs 1. but I couldn't find any teardown nor benchmark
Revel models have a higher MAXIMUM power target. the default power target is the same for both cards. in theory, this means the revel models should overlock higher, but that will be determined by silicon lottery. this is true for 3080, 3080 ti, 3090. the hardware is identical on the uprising and revel models, both are reference nvidia designs. people on the internet like to make shit up, ignore it.
side note, you can turn your uprising card into a revel by flashing the BIOS from the revel to the uprising.
@@solomonshv but official web site also says they are different. Revel is 11.57 x 4.41" x 2.20"; 2.7-Slot Uprising is 12.48" x 4.53" x 2.36"; 3-Slot slot. exactly as that reddit post says. That indicates they have different cooling hardware. are you positive that they have same cooling?
@@aslanyureky the cooler is the only difference. the cooler on the revel is slightly better, but not enough to make a difference in performance of the card. the PCBs are still identical. they are both using the same nvidia reference PCBs.
@@aslanyureky I haven an uprising instead of a revel. Literally the only difference so far that I've spotted is the cooler and the ARGB feature on the revel model. The uprising has RGB that just cycles with no modification. Otherwise, the cards are, from my understanding, effectively the same.
do you know what the thickness size of the thermal pads are for the pny rtx 3090 card?
Did you ever end up replacing your pads on this PNY?
Thanks for the review am. Interested in the 3080 of the same Gpu what i do like how its not to big and looking good quality and only 2x 8 pin
So do think the PNY GeForce RTX 3080 10GB XLR8 Gaming REVEL EPIC-X RGB could be good choice?
Just i want say its only the Gpu what i could have in the market at the moment
Also this Gpu are so close to Gainward GeForce RTX 3080 Phoenix and PALIT GEFORCE RTX 3080 GAMINGPRO
Did they come from the same manufactur because Palit seems to be good Gpu for me
PNY 3090 is a fucking tank! It even looks like a piece of military hardware!
Temperature wise, it eats the Gigabyte 3090 for breakfast.
Hi, friend. They are selling this RTX 3090 PNY model. do you recommend it? What is this GPU brand like?..
the best 3090 models are founder edition, asus tuf and asus strix. they all have monolithic power systems smart voltage controllers. if you can get one of those models, get it. other cards, like this PNY, all MSI cards, all gigatrash cards, all zotac models use the outdated UP9511 and UP9512 voltage controllers, made by uPI. they are inferior in every way.
no specific brand is better than all other brands. each generation of GPUs is different. during the RTX 3000 generation GPUs, asus were the best partner models, way better than other models. for RTX 4000 series, MSI is better than other brands.
Dear Abraham, is it safe to change the bios in pny rtx 3090 from uprising to revel? I want a slightly higher power limit ;-)
3:42, the ESD made my heart skip a beat
that's not ESD. lol. i'm using an electric screwdriver. i accidentally pushed the forward button. there is an LED flash at the front as well, that's where the light came from.
when working on very small screws, i avoid using the motor and tighten/loosen by hand to avoid stripping the thread
@@solomonshv gotcha. looked like a huge spark to me and with such an expensive component it definitely startled me. Having a big hot spot issue on my card, like the thermal paste got cracks in it or something after pulling it out and putting it back in a few times for a hard drive issue. Was thinking about replacing the thermal pads, but I'm very paranoid about ESD after work training and the paranoia primed me to see what I feared. And it seems like ESD doesn't bite people with hundreds of hours of no precautions. But in the off chance I fried my card, I don't think I'd be happy being out over a grand in a moment I didn't even recognize happened. Don't even expect to see a spark in most ESD events, so thinking I saw one was... shocking.
Thank you for the tear down was very useful.
Any advice on what size thermal pads are required for all the different components? I've read that you need 0.5mm 1mm and 2mm for various parts...
no, sorry. this card went to a customer years ago. i don't remember anything specific about it
Helloo Abraham, you change thermal from a 3080ti pny? have the measurements?
i didn't have any 3080 ti cards
I'm trying to turn off the RGB, did you notice RGB header or are they linked with the fan header?
there is a separate RGB header on there. if you unplug it, RGB will turn off. the RGB header is in the back of the card, under the rear 8-pin power connector.
@@solomonshv great reply thank you
Thanks for the video, it's just what i was looking for. Just one question, because you did not show it: Is there more thermal padding on the backplate besides the 12 ram modules? i mean are the vrm's also taped to the backplate, or just the memory modules?
the rear of the PNY card only had thermal pads on the memory, nowhere else. other cards that i've taken apart had thermal pads on the VRM too. HOWEVER, it is important to note that the other cards i took apart had SMD SP-CAPs on the back to accompany the ones in the front, whereas the PNY did not. and that's probably why there was no thermal pads there.
The real star of the show is that screwdriver.
lol. it's called a "wowstick". they use to be $35 with 3 of those tubes full of various bits. along with a bunch of other accessories. i had mine for over 6 years now. i built and disassembled hundreds of GPUs, laptops and computers with it, built many custom keyboards. never had an issue with it and i always have the right bit. it even has nintendo specific bits.
it went up in price to about $50, but you can find clones that may or may not be as good for as little as $15. here is a legit wowstick with all the bits: www.amazon.com/Ruputas-Precision-Screwdriver-Rechargeable-Electronics/dp/B07DB7ZT5P/
here is a knock off for about $15 ($20 minus $5 coupon) www.amazon.com/WOWSTICK-Screwdriver-Precision-Rechargeable-Automatic/dp/B09GJLDBK4/
@@solomonshv Thanks a bunch. I do a lot of electronics work and I could really use something like that. While we are talking, do you have any regrets about the PNY card? If you could do it all over again, would you choose a different card?
@@lightspeedlegato it was purchased for a customer build. they still use it and they don't have any issues with it. we picked this card because they wanted a small form factor build PC. at the time most 3090 PCBs were massive and wouldn't fit into their desired case. the founder's edition card had that stupid 12-pin connector so we couldn't use that either.
in our case, it was the best fit for the build. but if you are not space constrained, i would no recommend this card. get something better, like the tuf or strix. tuf and strix cards have the best boards or any 30 series cards. for the 40 series, the msi suprim are the best boards.
I ended up getting a PNY. I just couldn't pass up the deal they had on it. Thanks so much for all of the great info.
Is the heatsink flat/suitable for a deshroud mod? No one seems to show this in tear down videos!!!
That’s because no one does that mod. I’ve built close to 300 customer PCs in 2020 alone (that’s why I have so many 3080s and 3090s just laying around). Not a single person even inquired about it. It’s not worth the effort and it voids the warranty on your $1000-$2000 GPU.
@@solomonshvdeshroud mod aside I still don’t know why people taking the time to film themselves pulling a card apart on YT wouldn’t take the extra few minutes to remove fans, show the manufacturer details should someone need a replacement and also how the heatsink looks for mods down the track when fans potentially fail.
What are the dimensions of the card once you remove the cooler? And can you tell me what screw driver bits you used to disassemble it and that screw driver too.
Thanks
about 213mm, from the display ports to the rear end. this doesn't include the i/O shield that protrudes forward to mount to the case
@@solomonshv do you happen to remember the screw bit sizes?
Great video! Can you do another to show how to take the fans apart to clean the heatsink? I couldn't figure out how to take the fan out and expose the heatsink. Thanks man.
this was for a client build. i put this computer together a long time ago and sent it across the country. it should be pretty easy to clean with an air compressor or leaf blower. no need to take it apart
When you say the third PCI-E 8 pin connector doesn't do anything on the Gaming X Trio, do you mean most of the power is drawn from the first 2 ports? So if you have only 2 8 pin PCIE outputs on your PSU (and PSU cables have 8-pin Y-splitters for 4 sets of 8 pin outputs), would you suggest connecting alternating PSU outputs to the PCIE 8 pin inputs? (i.e. PSU cable 1 - GPU 8pin input 1, PSU cable 2 - GPU 8pin input 2, PSU cable 1 split output - GPU input 3?) Thanks
on the 3090 trio, the BIOS is limited to 380W if you max out the power target. there are cards with only 2 plugs that have the same or even higher power limits with only 2 connectors. for example, the gigabyte 3090 eagle OC has a 385W limit with only 2 connectors.
the 3rd power connector is just a decoration, a marketing gimmick. even if you flash the card with a 500W BIOS, the TRIO will not be any faster in day to day use. once you hit around 2000MHz on any 3090, the cards become increasingly unstable.
another issue with MSI cards specifically is the VRM design. it is comically bad. on modern cards, the GPU die is flanked by the VRM from 2 or more sides. this is done to deliver power evenly across the entire power plane. MSI cards, ALL of them, have an inch long gap between the GPU die and the right bank of the VRM. which means that MSI cards specifically will become less stable faster compared to any other cards as voltage goes up.
@@solomonshv Ok so you are just saying in terms of theoretical maximum. My questions is more in terms of load balancing. I thought you meant the third connector literally does nothing, but what you mean is it *adds* nothing in terms of power budget.
So in that case I'm guessing in practice they all draw power evenly and if you only have 2 PCI-E PSU cables it doesn't matter which order the 8 pin connectors you connect to on the card itself then. I thought you were referring to functionality of that PCIE port specifically.
i made this picture comparison for people who don't know what gap i'm talking about, hope it helps: i.imgur.com/zcLLTET.jpg
@@derelictmusic3218 i'm using a corsair AX1600i PSU, it has digital readout for power draws from each connector. the 3rd connector was not doing much at any point.
and even if it did load balance across the 3 plugs, it won't matter unless you have an old AF multi 12V rail PSU. those are rare these days. if it's a single 12V rail PSU, all the power is coming from the same place and the cables are more than capable of handling it. in the end, the msi trio was not any faster than this reference PNY card and was slower than the asus 3090 tuf and strix. both of which i currently have on hand.
@@solomonshv Since you have both cards, can you comment on how loud the cards are? Since AFAIK all the Ampere cards now have fixed 30% minimum fan speed. Is the Gaming X Trio significantly quieter than the PNY? I think PNY XLR8 cards have a reputation for being noisy even at low settings.
Whatever happened to the follow up video to the water cooled bro?
the customer decided not to water cool it. sorry.
What water block did you go with? I'm stoked about the small size
alphacool aurora. i ordered mine from germany and it's stuck in customs. meanwhile, performancePCs restocked it. i should have just waited a few days and i would have already had it in hand. here is a link if you want to check it out: www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/water-blocks/water-blocks-vga/alphacool-eisblock-aurora-plexi-gpx-n-rtx-3090-3080-with-backplate-reference.html
@@solomonshv did it ever turn up? If so how is the block? Was looking at this or the EK classic if you have any recommendations?
@@mrdanky5545 it's working fine. i recorded a video of me installing it but the video file was corrupted somehow. i'll try to fix it later. EK is a rip off. you'll be paying $200+ for block and back plate. alphacool includes the backplate at $135-$145, depending which block you take. i used EK religiously in the past, but stopped when they raised their prices through the roof.
@@solomonshv thanks for the reply. Unfortunately too late I stuck a vector block and back plate on. I’m happy with the results, not the price. I’m scoring 15000 on port royal now with 1000w vbios on the pny 3090
@@solomonshv I wonder if active cooling of the other side of the card is required or if passive cooling is enough. Would it be good to install a water block or is it already redundant?
Why not make more videos? It's informative and enjoyable. More PC build/review please.
Thanks for the video, really helpful! Have you had a chance to compare with Palit GamingPro variant of the ref pcb? Now choosing between them to put waterblock on them
hello. unfortunately palit cards are not available in north america. but i think they should be exactly the same because they are both nvidia refence boards. i know they use the same voltage controllers, inductors. it's possible that they use different brand bulk capacitors (nichicon, rubycon, panasonic) but that will not make a difference for performance. it's also worth noting that sometimes you can have the same model GPU from the same brand that use different brand capacitors due to the supply shortage. i had asus 3070 tuf cards that used different brand capacitors even though they were the same exact part number.
@@solomonshv I see, thanks again! Palit is also known as Galax, Gainward and KFA2. I was worried they may have some quality tiers in the brands so use better/more components in some products and not the others
Great vid. I just have one question, Does anyone here know a way to mod the RGB so that it can actually sync with the motherboard? I have the 3070 version of this card, But OCD is a thing and I want everything to at least somewhat match. I know where the cable is and stuff but I dont know if i can just get an adapter and plug in the 3 pin cuz It'' probably either fry it or not turn on.
you have to take apart the card, disconnect the RGB cable and add an extension cable to the RGB cable with an RGB connector on the end that will fit your computer. with this card, it's the only way
@@solomonshv do you know what kind of connector it would need to be? I have 5v 3 pin connectors on my stuff but idk what kinda cable it is considered from the gpu’s lights
@@memedaily8690 Did you end up getting an extension cable for the RGB cable on your PNY?
@@knight2255 Unfortunatley no, but it works out fine bhecause recently I sold it to a freind and got an Asus Rog 3060ti
Did you ever get your Water Block and how is it's performance? Memory Temps back and front?
I think it's funny you say it's a plus to have normal connectors like the 12 pin 3. Umm this is going to be used more often as it can pull more from it. Imo it's not cool that it doesn't have that option lol.
your comment is very hard to follow. the first sentence is a doozy. as for pulling more power, that's the one single thing i did NOT want for this project because this computer was about the size of a playstation. i actually tuned this card to pull less power while retaining out of the box performance.
@@solomonshv if something is asking for more power or needs power then it's best to be able to give it to it. It's how you get the best performance out of it. Would be different if it didn't need it or ask for it. So using those would give you what you need. The way you worded it like oh it's a plus that it doesn't come with or have an option for one is ridiculous. It would be better to have the option.
If prices are all the same for you, which model of RTX 3090 would you get? :
ZOTAC Trinity, MSI gaming x trio, PNY XLR8
the MSI card. i'm not a fan of the MSI cards this gen, they went lazy on the VRMs, but the trio X is still a little better than the other two. the cooler on the trio x is A LOT better than the other two.
@@solomonshv thank you, i plan to mine on them and didn't know which one i should put my money on
link for that screwdriver ?
it's called wowstick, there are 100 listings+ for it on amazon and aliexpress. here is one amazon link: www.amazon.com/Wowstick-Electric-Screwdriver-Cordless-Lithium-ion/dp/B07H27G9NF/
it use to be $35, but went up recently. probably due to the tariffs. it comes with 50 different bits, a little maker's pad, a magnetizer, and some other junk
@@solomonshv thank you
I was thinking to water cool it as well, but I don’t know where to start. Your video would be very appreciated :)
no problem! i'm glad you found it useful.
man, could you please help me choosing the right card, I write down my choices:
These are the 3070 Tis :
Asus Strix
Asus Tuf
Msi gamingX trio
Zotac AmpHolo
Gigabyte gaming oc
Zotac Trinity
PNY EpicX
I'm leaning toward the Msi gamigX trio and asus tuf. Which one do you think gives higher hashrate, better quality and better thermals?
short version: asus tuf if the best out of the bunch, by a million miles.
long version:
the zotac and the PNY cards are reference PCBs. they are the bare minimum that nvidia will allow vendors to put the nvidia logo on. avoid zotac at all costs. PNY is ok, but only if you are specifically looking for a reference PCB to make a small form factor water cooled build.
gigabyte gaming OC and msi trio are small upgrades from a reference card with a higher power limit. they have extra power phases/capacitors to allow them to eat more power, but they retain the 8 phase voltage controller and most of the design
the asus tuf is nothing like the reference card. the voltage controller is upgraded from an 8 phase to a 10 phase digital controller. asus also adds high end SMD capacitors on the back of the card for more power capacity and lower response times.
the exact benchmark scores are dependent on silicon lottery. so it's possible that you can get an msi or gigabyte card that is faster than the asus, but that's not something anyone can predict. however, the asus card will be easier to tune and will last longer.
@@solomonshv thank you, very detailed and helpful answer.
@@solomonshv is the tuf better than the strix too?
Is this card good like other normal size?
Yea,pretty good,Į don't have any problems with it.
How has this GPU treated you? What kind of thermals are you getting using it?
I have an incredible opportunity to buy one for $500 on the used market locally.
it has been good. in the current custom water cooling loop the temps typically stay in the 30s when gaming. never more than 42*C. but it only gets that high after many hours of a demanding game, like heavily modded skyrim or cyberpunk. no complaints
@@solomonshv Those are insanely good temps! What waterblock/radiator did you end up using?
Is the same performance for streaming and gaming?
gaming performance is about the same at stock. i don't stream but i can't imagine why there would be a difference between the two. the msi card can go a little faster (2-3%) with the new BIOS, but the new BIOS increases the power draw from 340W to 450W+. it's fucking stupid. it will turn your room into a sauna during long gaming sessions.
@@solomonshv And this PNY is the same as the founders edition? I mean, performance
I have to same one, beast of a card
How's the noise level?
@@ericglasper148 Quiet as hell.
at gaming 70C max 100% max load and the fans at auto 35-50% barely can hear something:)
Nice video. Have a like 😃
aka the gainward 3090
it's an nvidia reference card. asus, msi, pny, gainward, galax and almost every other brand make this identical card. they are all identical. the exceptions are zotac and gigabyte. they make cards that are worse than the reference design to save some money. gigabyte made the "gaming", "windforce" and "vision" cards. they are all identical card with different color coolers. and they are all worse than this reference card.
Compare to Msi how good this GPU ?
The msi ranked bottom of the pack with palit
@@jagz888 how about 3090 msi ventus 3x vs 3090 inno3d ichill x4
dam so the zotac version sucks? I like the lighting on it but nevermind ! lol
yea, the zotac cards suck. they use the bare minimum that nvidia will allow. the line filtering is not only extremely limited in terms of capacitance, but it also has really slow transient response times. they really scraped the bottom of the barrel. the zotac cards will still work, but for the prices they are asking, you can get something much better if you hold out.
Is this pny card good? Or should I wait for an asus strix or something
вот криворукий а))
сама такая
Is this a sarcasm video?
Which part is sarcastic ?
Speak louder.
i wish i could...