Phil, you’re enthusiasm is infectious. I haven’t been able to build much due to health issues over the past year so I’m living vicariously through you until I’m healthy again.
Love it! I've seen others that have tried masking the seams to prevent painting them, but the seams didn't look quite right. I'm going to be following closely and taking notes. Thanks again for sharing the journey.🤩
I've never built a model before, the 1/350 is my first... talk about challenging... Very glad I came across your channel and appreciate your commitment to helping others with their own builds. 🙂
I'm a person of Earth! :) I haven't built one of these 350th Enterprise kits but I have the AMT 537th scale waiting in the wings but it may be waiting awhile as I've been busy with Star Wars related kits... Your commentary does cheer me up a bit, which at the moment is a bit of a godsend. Take care, and keep building 🖖
The Redeaux is going to be Spectacular , I can tell already. Thank you so much for the Light Cure Putty and the Niimbot Printer tip. I'm ordering them right away. That Niimbot Printer could also be used to label custom paint mixes too. Hey Phil , Madworks is a Korean or Japanese company that makes Great Modeling Tools ( worth looking into ) Burbank House of Hobbies may have some stuff but NewType HQ carries a full line . I use their Chisels and sanding products a lot.
Hi Phil. Thanks for the video. I watched the last build up and enjoyed it. On the assumption that you are building the 'Refit' as opposed to the 'A', when you come to the neck section, specifically the vent at the base, you will need part 22 which needs to be painted black. I noticed that you used part 21; painted blue on the previous build; which is specific to the 'A' variant. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build. Happy modelling.
Hi Phil. Great update. Glad you found the suggestion of threaded lamp rod for the base useful. Acrylic tube round the outside as I use would likely be easier to paint than the brass. You don’t need to keep the long rod in for the whole build - you can get shorter lengths (1-2 inches) which you can use as a placeholder making the kit easier to handle. Your point about having clean plastic for joints is very valid and one I try to stick to myself as I and others have had bad results trying to glue to painted surfaces. I am often surprised when I see Lou doing this. My solution to the problem is to coat the areas I think will need gluing with latex liquid mask before airbrushing a light blocking coat on the inside. Then when that has dried remove the mask, join the parts and spray/brush light blocking along the seams where the mask will likely have overspilled. It's a bit of a faff but it gives you the best of both worlds. That Nimbot looks very interesting and unlike many gadgets is not overpriced. I would have seriously considered it if I didn't already have a Brother QL-570 label printer. Keep up the good work - looking forward to the next thrilling instalment! 👍😁
I'm excited to see what you brought back from Wonderfest :) I think your label machine is a great idea. I'd have written on some Tamiya tape, and then I know I'd rub it off somewhere, or I wouldn't be able to read my chicken scratch hand writing haha.
Since you are going again,a comment on those acrylic windows you have but didn’t use. I am using them and 2 things, one,they are smaller on one end then the other,so I pushed them in from the outside small end first, second,they have to be sanded to shape to be flush with the hull. I have done this with mine to great effect. I didn’t say this on the last build as you were too far in so it wouldn’t have helped. Use the,you’ll love the result!
This is going great so far,Iand thanks for sharing the nimbot printer and the light curing putty.Both items are important and will be very useful to any modelers work space.Looking forward to following your revised build Phil!
I know exactly what you're going through with this. I built one of these almost 10 years ago, and at the time I had purchased a lighting kit from a reputable model supplier online. After installing the kit and building the model, the lights started to burn out. I'd say it had 50-100 hours on it before it was almost totally dark. I also wasn't completely happy with the way my Refit looked, so I decided to build a second one. I did a huge build series on my second one as well, and it turned out much better. I built it with my own lights rather than sourcing another lighting kit. That way I could be sure it was going to last. As it turns out, we wind up learning from our mistakes, and I'm happy with Refit #2. I must really be mad, as I have a 3rd one about halfway done right now. Keep it up, and good luck!
Hey Phil, the build is progressing nicely. The shuttle bay looks great! Thanks for the tip about UV putty. I will order some. That printer is cool too. I go cheap marking masking tape but like you said, it can smear. And for me, it usually does. All I can say is, this model looks like a beast to build, too much work for my blood. At least….for now. Oh… and I am so glad you went with Tenacontrols. Cramming everything into the model on the last try seemed a recipe for disaster. Especially, how they used ribbon cables. It eats up too much space and can be a bear to fit. Keep up the good work.
Great video Phil. I can't wait to see how good it turns out this time. I've recently started working on my 350 refit and will be watching your videos for ideas. By the way, I just ordered some of that light curing putty. Can't wait to try it out.
And the journey begins anew. Some really good tips, too. I'm going to look into getting the light-curing putty. Will be following along as you progress through the build. Also, welcome back from Wonderfest. I confess I saw a handful of You Tubers there, including yourself, Lou, Wayne, and Oggie (Interstellar Modeler) there, but I didn't approach anyone and say hi. It's just a introvert thing that I need to overcome. That being said, I was at the Iwata booth when you stopped by there to pick up your airbrush. Did they ever find it?🔍
Phil, I think I said this on your last video but I’m with you on starting afresh. This is a beast of a kit which bested me earlier this year. I’m planning on picking up another kit at Matt Irving’s HaMex model show next month and starting again. This kit is my white whale and I will not be beaten!!!! 😂😂😂
Hi Phil, can you imagine what this model would look like if Bandai had made it? As far as assembling before light blocking the secondary hull may I suggest painting the light blocking before assembly and using isopropyl alcohol to clean the seams, assembling then brushing the seams once assembled? Love your advice on the UV putty by the way!
i can already breathe easier seeing the difference in the size of the wiring. will you be re-using any parts from the version 1? I can see reusing the deflector, for example
Phil, I don't have this in my stash, too many other models to do first but I did refurbish my original 1980 1:537 scale refit last year. It turned out as beautiful as any 1:350 scale refits I've seen. fully lighted and 4 four color aztek paint job. As it was it took me 6 months to re-build and paint it, not sure I want to go through that again as it was stressful enough the first time. But good luck on the second go-around.
If this is a 350 scale there are photoetch figures in that scale that you could possibly use in the bay. They are sailor figures and they might be useful. Nice work
Yes. I used them on a diorama of the Bandai 1:350 Millennium falcon sitting on the landing pad at sky City and I used the figures for the welcoming committee turned out awesome.
Just found your site, I'm not sure if anyone has the Space Ghost Cruiser or the craft Jan and Jace from Space Ghost used, but they would be awesome models if they existed.
Got down to last aztec colour on the bottom of the dish looking ok but to me it looked grubby so sanded it back and started again, that's the thing with this model don't be afraid to start again if you carry on you will not be happy with it. build it to the best of your abilities not anyone else's
You are an inspiration to modelers everywhere. Great enthusiasm! I am finishing up the TOS 1/350 and considering this one for the next challenge. As I am working my way through your build series, I have some questions/comments. I think I read in a previous comment the threaded rod is 7.5mm diameter and the brass outer rod is 8mm dia. How long are the pieces and where did you procure them? It appears you epoxied the rod and the locking nut in place, curious as to why not epoxy the washer and nut so that you could unthread the rod as needed? You probably cover this later, but what is the solution for the base as to how that threaded rod connects. Can't imagine it will be through a thin acrylic piece given the weight of the model. One suggestion, I think it would be helpful to consolidate all the aftermarket parts, and build materials/paints, masks, etc into one place in the first video so it could be ordered up front by those planning to take it own. Again, absolutely a joy to watch, learning a LOT.
Thanks for your comment - very much appreciated. All brass rod comes from K&S precision metals - they are at your local hobby shop or found online. Length is entirely up to you as long as there is still a stable connection. I honestly can’t remember how and why I chose the epoxy touch points I’m sorry, it’s been a while. Cheers! Phil
Phil, any particular reason why you put the mounting rod below the arboretum and not in the space just forward? I was planning on doing the latter but I’m interested to know your thoughts.
Great video Phil. Appreciate the shout out...so great see you as well. Looking forward to the rest of this endeavor.
Phil, we really need you too do this so we can all have rhis beutiful model on our shelves as well!
Phil, you’re enthusiasm is infectious. I haven’t been able to build much due to health issues over the past year so I’m living vicariously through you until I’m healthy again.
Get well soon! We need you modeling! Cheers!
Love it! I've seen others that have tried masking the seams to prevent painting them, but the seams didn't look quite right. I'm going to be following closely and taking notes. Thanks again for sharing the journey.🤩
Some more great tips and improvements to the Enterprise, out-shadowed by the little tiny label printer!
Now there's a machine!!!! WANT ONE!
I've never built a model before, the 1/350 is my first... talk about challenging... Very glad I came across your channel and appreciate your commitment to helping others with their own builds. 🙂
I'm a person of Earth! :)
I haven't built one of these 350th Enterprise kits but I have the AMT 537th scale waiting in the wings but it may be waiting awhile as I've been busy with Star Wars related kits...
Your commentary does cheer me up a bit, which at the moment is a bit of a godsend.
Take care, and keep building 🖖
CONGRATS ON 4K+ subs PHILL......YOU'VE EARND EVERY ONE......CHEERS........STAY CHUFT..............
The Redeaux is going to be Spectacular , I can tell already. Thank you so much for the Light Cure Putty and the Niimbot Printer tip. I'm ordering them right away. That Niimbot Printer could also be used to label custom paint mixes too. Hey Phil , Madworks is a Korean or Japanese company that makes Great Modeling Tools ( worth looking into ) Burbank House of Hobbies may have some stuff but NewType HQ carries a full line . I use their Chisels and sanding products a lot.
Hi Phil. Thanks for the video. I watched the last build up and enjoyed it. On the assumption that you are building the 'Refit' as opposed to the 'A', when you come to the neck section, specifically the vent at the base, you will need part 22 which needs to be painted black. I noticed that you used part 21; painted blue on the previous build; which is specific to the 'A' variant. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build. Happy modelling.
Phil Tamiya make light curing putty which is great. I've used it for years
Also,good on you for wanting to make it the best you can,it’s hard to start over,but you will be so happy!
Hi Phil. Great update. Glad you found the suggestion of threaded lamp rod for the base useful. Acrylic tube round the outside as I use would likely be easier to paint than the brass. You don’t need to keep the long rod in for the whole build - you can get shorter lengths (1-2 inches) which you can use as a placeholder making the kit easier to handle. Your point about having clean plastic for joints is very valid and one I try to stick to myself as I and others have had bad results trying to glue to painted surfaces. I am often surprised when I see Lou doing this. My solution to the problem is to coat the areas I think will need gluing with latex liquid mask before airbrushing a light blocking coat on the inside. Then when that has dried remove the mask, join the parts and spray/brush light blocking along the seams where the mask will likely have overspilled. It's a bit of a faff but it gives you the best of both worlds. That Nimbot looks very interesting and unlike many gadgets is not overpriced. I would have seriously considered it if I didn't already have a Brother QL-570 label printer. Keep up the good work - looking forward to the next thrilling instalment! 👍😁
I'm excited to see what you brought back from Wonderfest :) I think your label machine is a great idea. I'd have written on some Tamiya tape, and then I know I'd rub it off somewhere, or I wouldn't be able to read my chicken scratch hand writing haha.
Since you are going again,a comment on those acrylic windows you have but didn’t use. I am using them and 2 things, one,they are smaller on one end then the other,so I pushed them in from the outside small end first, second,they have to be sanded to shape to be flush with the hull. I have done this with mine to great effect. I didn’t say this on the last build as you were too far in so it wouldn’t have helped. Use the,you’ll love the result!
This is going great so far,Iand thanks for sharing the nimbot printer and the light curing putty.Both items are important and will be very useful to any modelers work space.Looking forward to following your revised build Phil!
I know exactly what you're going through with this. I built one of these almost 10 years ago, and at the time I had purchased a lighting kit from a reputable model supplier online. After installing the kit and building the model, the lights started to burn out. I'd say it had 50-100 hours on it before it was almost totally dark. I also wasn't completely happy with the way my Refit looked, so I decided to build a second one. I did a huge build series on my second one as well, and it turned out much better. I built it with my own lights rather than sourcing another lighting kit. That way I could be sure it was going to last. As it turns out, we wind up learning from our mistakes, and I'm happy with Refit #2. I must really be mad, as I have a 3rd one about halfway done right now. Keep it up, and good luck!
Nice build update on your second ship!
Good luck on your Secondprise build, and great choice on the TenaControls board I went with that as well and the features are amazing.
You should be wearing an Engineers shirt when building a ship, not a science officers. 😃
Hey Phil, the build is progressing nicely. The shuttle bay looks great! Thanks for the tip about UV putty. I will order some. That printer is cool too. I go cheap marking masking tape but like you said, it can smear. And for me, it usually does.
All I can say is, this model looks like a beast to build, too much work for my blood. At least….for now. Oh… and I am so glad you went with Tenacontrols. Cramming everything into the model on the last try seemed a recipe for disaster. Especially, how they used ribbon cables. It eats up too much space and can be a bear to fit.
Keep up the good work.
Good update sir 👍👍
Great video Phil. I can't wait to see how good it turns out this time. I've recently started working on my 350 refit and will be watching your videos for ideas. By the way, I just ordered some of that light curing putty. Can't wait to try it out.
I'm soo happy about this!!
And the journey begins anew. Some really good tips, too. I'm going to look into getting the light-curing putty. Will be following along as you progress through the build. Also, welcome back from Wonderfest. I confess I saw a handful of You Tubers there, including yourself, Lou, Wayne, and Oggie (Interstellar Modeler) there, but I didn't approach anyone and say hi. It's just a introvert thing that I need to overcome. That being said, I was at the Iwata booth when you stopped by there to pick up your airbrush. Did they ever find it?🔍
Bless you my dear sir !
Phil, I think I said this on your last video but I’m with you on starting afresh. This is a beast of a kit which bested me earlier this year. I’m planning on picking up another kit at Matt Irving’s HaMex model show next month and starting again. This kit is my white whale and I will not be beaten!!!! 😂😂😂
Might see you at Smallspace 👍😁
Hi Phil, can you imagine what this model would look like if Bandai had made it? As far as assembling before light blocking the secondary hull may I suggest painting the light blocking before assembly and using isopropyl alcohol to clean the seams, assembling then brushing the seams once assembled? Love your advice on the UV putty by the way!
i can already breathe easier seeing the difference in the size of the wiring.
will you be re-using any parts from the version 1? I can see reusing the deflector, for example
You could definitely reuse parts but Lou…you know me!!😂
Phil, I don't have this in my stash, too many other models to do first but I did refurbish my original 1980 1:537 scale refit last year. It turned out as beautiful as any 1:350 scale refits I've seen. fully lighted and 4 four color aztek paint job. As it was it took me 6 months to re-build and paint it, not sure I want to go through that again as it was stressful enough the first time. But good luck on the second go-around.
If this is a 350 scale there are photoetch figures in that scale that you could possibly use in the bay. They are sailor figures and they might be useful. Nice work
Yes. I used them on a diorama of the Bandai 1:350 Millennium falcon sitting on the landing pad at sky City and I used the figures for the welcoming committee turned out awesome.
I have the secondary hull parts assembled the same way. It is more important to achieve accurate fit and joint strength, light block after.
Just found your site, I'm not sure if anyone has the Space Ghost Cruiser or the craft Jan and Jace from Space Ghost used, but they would be awesome models if they existed.
Got down to last aztec colour on the bottom of the dish looking ok but to me it looked grubby so sanded it back and started again, that's the thing with this model don't be afraid to start again if you carry on you will not be happy with it. build it to the best of your abilities not anyone else's
Great video!
Great info thank you
You are an inspiration to modelers everywhere. Great enthusiasm! I am finishing up the TOS 1/350 and considering this one for the next challenge. As I am working my way through your build series, I have some questions/comments. I think I read in a previous comment the threaded rod is 7.5mm diameter and the brass outer rod is 8mm dia. How long are the pieces and where did you procure them? It appears you epoxied the rod and the locking nut in place, curious as to why not epoxy the washer and nut so that you could unthread the rod as needed? You probably cover this later, but what is the solution for the base as to how that threaded rod connects. Can't imagine it will be through a thin acrylic piece given the weight of the model. One suggestion, I think it would be helpful to consolidate all the aftermarket parts, and build materials/paints, masks, etc into one place in the first video so it could be ordered up front by those planning to take it own. Again, absolutely a joy to watch, learning a LOT.
Thanks for your comment - very much appreciated. All brass rod comes from K&S precision metals - they are at your local hobby shop or found online. Length is entirely up to you as long as there is still a stable connection. I honestly can’t remember how and why I chose the epoxy touch points I’m sorry, it’s been a while. Cheers! Phil
❤ - 👍
Phil the tubes are transporter tubes
Phil, any particular reason why you put the mounting rod below the arboretum and not in the space just forward? I was planning on doing the latter but I’m interested to know your thoughts.
I found that this models exact center of gravity was directly over the arboretum.
Thanks Phil!
I think you cut 1 to many rows of landing lights Phil the are only 10 sequential landing lights on the board
Aha! I’m using another board!
Doesn't everyone have petroleum jelly? It has a lot of uses 😜
Sanity is overrated