Sad to see a car treated like this. I bought a used 1979 Celica Gt in 1987 to drive back and forth to work. The original owner had done 3 or 4 oil changes in 8 years. Surprisingly the car ran pretty good. The 20R engine was a beast. A trusted old mechanic told me what to do to clear some of the sludge. I drained the oil, changed the oil filter, added 2 quarts cheap oil and 3 quarts of transmission fluid. I drove it around for a couple of hours, not revving the engine. Drained the oil and was amazed at the chunks of sludge that came out. I did this once more in a month. I ran cheap oil in the car for the next 3 years. I was told that ATF had high levels of detergents. In 1990 I traded it in for a new Isuzu pickup.
My mechanic has done the same thing to his customers cars with gummed up engine. They use a full change worth and let it idle a while. I bought a 84 SR5 pickup with 22RE I didn't know was abused (by mechanic owner no less). I think he did about the same thing "2 oil changes ever". The filter was rusty!! Anyhow I had my own shadetree method of a mix of mostly Diesel fuel and a little bit of engine oil and kept in its own container and re used for other gummed engines as needed (at my work). The pickup ran okay in buddy's garage and the drive home, I had no idea it was lumpy ooze in the crankcase. It poured out like partially melted chocolate ice cream with chocolate chips. After filling with my mixture, and a roughly 7 minutes idle, it poured out like proper oil only a black film left in the bottom of the pan (my mix dissolved the turds still clinging to the inside). Once full of the correct oil, oh boy it was a symphony of ticking and chain rattle. Game over. Looking back I might have been able to put 3 bottle worth of STP and had it run without the noise. The transmission was the exact same thing.. black and a lot of silt, once full of fresh stuff I noticed that the OD would not stay in gear. Today if I still had it I bet that Lucas Stop Slip would bring it back but back then there was only proper ATF and Seal Restore solvent. Hard to believe a mechanic would leave liquid turd in his vehicle.
not supposed to drive it around when you do that trick. we always just let it idle for 15 min and then drain it. change the filter and add the new fresh oil
@@jonnysnipes3123 i would agree. Probably did not help the engine. It was a real beater, so I was never worried about it.. I definitely would not do that on a more modern engine.
The ppl who are being nasty and rude just shows ignorance he added to his oil to break down the sludge. HE DID NOT REPLACE THE OIL WITH ATF if you have not tried it dont comment on it because before there lucs,seafoam,flushing or anything of that nature transmission fluid was used to clean sluggish engine and oil build up and I'm the son of a mechanic who's the son of a mechanic 80 yrs in my family business and stand by it 100 percent Buddy if it works for you which it did keep up the good work
i bought a 98 dodge dakota 4x4 5.2 new, it will turn over 400,000 miles by summer, its been an awesome truck, only major problem i had with it was heater core replacement, did water pump at that time to be safe, original transmission is serviced every 50,000 miles, same with transfer case and axles. I just replaced the original starter last summer, truck still has excellent oil pressure, never gets below 40lbs even at idle, everytime i do a transmission fluid change, it gets sprayed onto my frame, rockers, undersides and bedsides. its still a great looking truck yet, people cannot believe it has almost 400,000 on it
Gramps was an old school truck driver. Even did some Arctic Trucking to the circle. He use to do this with Diesel fuel instead of ATF. Worked like a charm.
I've been doing this to my engines since the 80's when an old time mechanic showed me. I drive a 2016 Ecoboost now, 3.5. Bought in 22. it had what sounds like a stuck cam as the oil would age. did 3 oil changes with Ford oil and it started to become less. switched to Valvoline and, poof, its gone. I use about an 1/8 of trani fluid in the crackcase the day of oil change, drive it for 30 mins and go drop it. runs like a cat ever since. I am running 0-30 weight and will be trying the new Valvoline Restore, which is proving in real world tests to actually remove deposits and clean things up in the engine. you had piston slap, it should free those rings up and smooth things out for you. very good, entertaining video too. good luck sport.
I had ATF (used one quart) ran car for 20 minutes. The car was very abused, all the rings were stuck and it had blow by. It cleaned the sludge so well that hard chunks got free from the internal engine parts and clogged the oil pickup screen even after changing the oil. Pulled the pan and cleaned the screen. The blow by was almost cut in half and the car got another 30,000.
FWIW I had a new 2001 Ram 3.9 six cylinder that clattered (lifters) for 1-2 seconds on a cold start since day one. Never became an issue or got worse; just lifters pumping up.
If you want toprevent your doors and wheel wells from rusting, spray atf fluid around inside the door and up inbetween the rear inner and outer panels. Into rocker panels through drain holes. It prevents rust and if you have rust it absolutely stops it
This is like the oldest truck in the book. ATF is basically a 5 weight oil l,Your supposed to drain the oil, and fill it with atf then drive it around and get it good and hot. Drive it 25-30 miles. Then drain it, change the filter and refill with recommended oil. ATF is highly detergent. You’ll never see a transmission techs hands dirty? They are always clean! I’ll dump 2-3 quarts of ATF in the tank of May 5.9l Cummins on fill up. It lubricated the injection pump and injectors, and keeps everything nice and clean! ATF is the greatest fuel for a diesel additive! You can run old atf thru your diesel to. When changing your trans fluid and doing a pan drop. Drain out your trans pan, keeping everything clean! Aftermarket Maghytec Pans with drain plugs rock! Dump the atf right into your fuel tank! You can dilute with diesel fuel if you want. Same with waste motor oil, there’s guys that run straight waste motor oil in their mechanical diesels. I soundly do it on today’s hi tech electrically emissions diesels. Cummins 12 and 24 valve engines love it. I wouldn’t run straight waste oil in the winter time with out diluting it with diesel fuel 50/50 but a couple quarts of ATF before your oil change or added to your tank when you fill up if great for it!
I flushed my '02 camry with a full crankcase of cheap ATF. idled it for 10mins., then drove it gently on a surface road at 40mph(following the speed limit) for 10 mi. followed by an oil change with quality oil & filter immediately afterwards. The engine never had any sludge to begin with, but tried out the ATF flush just to keep the internals clean. seemed to have worked well. It gained back some lost power. ATF came out dark & oily but not gritty at all. Same with the previois batch of oil before adding the ATF to flush the oiling system.
I did something similar. Full case of cheap ATF let it idle for 45 minutes, shut her down. Removed the oil filter, put a new one on, topped it off with more ATF, let her idle for another hour gave her a few revs to 2k drained it, put in high mileage filter with motor oil and my oil pressure was perfect after that. Going to do it again next oil change.
I know I’ll get those faces but I was taught at a young age that you substitute 1 quart of oil with non synthetic trans fluid every oil change “per change recommendation” keeps the crap out it really does we still have grandads 76 f150 the insides are immaculate.
You should run about a quarter to half a quart of ATF in the engine oil every oil change…my buddy has been running it in his rigs for well over 20 years and they work mint with well over 300,000 miles and no issues!
I used to do this in the late 80s on my Mustang. Also unlike most people I used to take the engine apart, frequently, to change the cam and lifters, change the intake, change the heads, change the rockers. No engine I worked on had sludge but we used synthetic and did regular changes. Some of us tracked our cars weekly the rest of us street raced 2 nights a week. Never had a blown engine. The only people that blew engines that I knew, ran the engine at a high RPM for an extended amount of time racing on the highway. Gravity feed oil systems just pump all the oil up top and then the pan doesn't have any more oil and it doesn't return fast enough. The others used a little too much nitrous on a stock unprepped block.
My mechanic does the same thing to customer engine that is heavily gummed up. He puts i think the full amount though not 1 litre but only lets it idle until they figure the lumps are dissolved. If it was my truck I would have left it in and drove around a couple days and let it swish off everything. Probably a lump caught up in the pickup screen starving the pump slightly. Could have used "Power Steering fluid" or Hydraulic fluid its because there's no additives to thicken as it heats up. ATF and all other Hydraulic class fluids remain at "10" so its like substantially thin and able to splash around and travel through the clogged passages, rinsing them out. As the turds dissolved, it raised the overall "thickness level" back up. Thick and dirty. Probably the transmission was ignored as well. No shadetree fix for this. Maybe 50% Lucas stop slip and 50% synthetic fluid as a last resort before a rebuild.
I once watched a old guy , had a old 74 Impala come in the shop , motor sounded horrible.low power and a slight knock but good oil pressure. He backed it out in the lot and pulled the Air cleaner revved it to 3k and started pouring atf down the carb about 2 quarts. Made the knock go away and got back to having some guts after setting the timing. Cleaned the carbon off the valves and pistons he said. Now i just use seafoam, triple threat, throttle and top end clean out does the same thing pretty much and is catalytic converter safe as the old guy told me don't do this on a car with a cat . The wax in atf really does a number on the cat . And to complete the jod seafoam in the tank to clean the injectors ans some in the crank case to quiten up the lifters and clean the oil control rings . If done right it's a miracle worker.
Grandpa used to add ATF to oil for noisy lifters. I run Marvel in oil for everything and Fords can get high mileage on gas engines but go ahead and play the game if it makes you feel better. I liked my 99 Ram with 5.9l Magnum v8 except it kept exploding transfer cases under normal operating conditions.
All the doubters have a question to answer. Has anyone seen a working automatic transmission with sludge in it? Nope...why..they run extremely hot at times and sometimes don't get serviced for over 100k miles. Its got a lot of solvents and detergents in it. I have cleaned up a lot of engines this way.
I replaced my 02 Ranger motor after screwing up the timing and broke 3 valves. Replacement motor was older. Ran really rough. Replaced all the lifters, still rough. Got cylinder 3 soaking in atf (P03030) we'll see what happens!
I’m going to need to do this to my truck. I did it on my dodge a while ago to get rid of a lifter tick, it’s never come back since. It’s been 100k miles. I need to do this on my Chevy
I like your style all you good people at "Novice Garage" I think I'll be watching from now on. Can I point out things? 1. @5:20 - that radiator is filthy, the fins are coated with dirt. I'm surprised it cools the engine at all how it is. If you can't remove the radiator and clean inside and out, at least you can blow soap through it from the engine side, while still installed?
You can accomplish the same thing with marvel mystery oil. I add it about 100-200 miles b4 I plan to change the oil. The good thing about using marvel is, you’re gonna have a little to the fuel to clean the injectors. Instructions on the bottle. Using fuel injector cleaner and cleaning your throttle body will make a big difference in performance if they’re dirty.
Fixed s-10 with gallon of atf in gas tank that had 1/8 tank. Also did engine swap on grand Prix that lady did oil change and used ATF instead of oil. Took out oil pump.
I have had ford with 120,000 KMs before head gasket went, 1995 Ford falcon. Head Only went because the previous owner who was a taxi owner ran water not coolant. I believe. I was very upset my ex-cab 2010 Camry hybrid got written off because immediate in a big ute reversed into front of my car and punch the computer system out. Faith head over 900,000 ks only part changed by the owner, well major part which was the abs nothing else was touched. Only thing I spent was back set of brake pads and one front wheel bearing in five years and I put 130,000 KMs on it. Now I driving my Nissan patrol and going run a diesel in the motor b4 I change the oil. Cheers Graham
Back in the 70s and 80s models they were bad for the lifters getting jammed open causing the oh so familiar and super annoying non stop"ticktickticktick". I didn't notice that in the video. That was the end result of saving $ by not changing oil on time then.
Transmission Fluid In Oil Reduces Cleaning Power In most cases, adding automatic transmission fluid to motor oil reduces cleaning power. That’s because the detergency of ATF is less than motor oil. Why is that? ATF is exposed to lower levels of combustion byproducts and contaminants than motor oil, so it is formulated with reduced detergency. Instead, ATFs have elevated levels of friction modifiers and other additives that help protect gears and clutches. Transmission Fluid In Oil Reduces Wear Protection Second, adding ATF alters the motor oil formulation and reduces its effectiveness. A good motor oil is a fine balance of base oils and additives designed to fight wear, reduce friction, prevent deposits and slowly dissolve accumulated sludge. The cleaning power of motor oil is designed to work gradually over subsequent oil changes and not necessarily all at once. Adding a foreign substance to the oil disrupts the formulated chemistry, negatively impacting wear protection, detergency and more.
@@nikdog419 Very little difference between motor oil, and ATF. Primarily viscosity improvers, and the concentration of additives (motor oil having significantly more). Frequently they use the same grade of base oil to make both, ATF doesn't clean, can't clean, as the differences between the two is extremely small beyond concentration of additives. If anything one could take ATF, add more additives and make it into motor oil, engineering wise they are virtually identical. They simply use different amounts of the same additives, and a higher viscosity improvers/modifiers. He simply poured in a very low grade oil (additive wise) which burns as it was never intended to be used near combustion.
@@RoxusRemo No, it actually has basically none, there was a point in time where it had detergent, and during this period of time motor oil was detergent free. It was true at one point of time, and like most things which travel word of mouth there was some truth to it. However we are talking a good 50-60 years ago when this was a thing. Long enough ago where it doesn't apply anymore, yet not too long where past mechanics didn't recommend it to those working under them as apprentices. Modern ATF, and motor oil both have the same exact base oil, from that stuff is added to both. Transmissions no longer have detergents in them because the base quality oil is purified enough not to cause build up, however detergents are needed in motor oil due to them experiencing combustion. The by product of combustion increases the acidity of motor oil, detergents prevent this for the most part until the oil needs to be replaced while also bonding to carbon in the motor oil to increase the size of it (so the oil filter can catch it).
I believe in using ATF.I think he should of run it longer.What i do is add 1 or quart atf with oil and run it for few hundred miles.But it can work pretty fast but need to keep up on the cleaning so it dont get to heavy inside.
He probably wanted the shelf space back, and, he did actually use it though not it's intended purpose. Today's oils have an expiry date printed on so leaving it sit someone else might not buy it off him, and even if it was "expired" it's perfect for the purpose of swishing the crud off the bottom of his pickup engine.
This shouldn't be an old-timer secret this should be in every day average Joe piece of knowledge. I've been doing this with cars for so long and you can only do wrong if you do it to the wrong motor. If it's really really really really really bad I'd say just stick with one quart and then drive it for a 100 miles or let it idle for a couple hours. You don't want to break everything up at once because the oil screens will indeed get clogged. You want the proper flush product to actually turn a lot of those chunks into sludge as fast as possible but ATF will loosen those big chunks quick. You don't want to pile of chunks blocking your screen. I personally would use some carefully separated used oil and 2 quarts of ATF on the second one. Again only driving it for a hundred miles or idling for like an hour at least. Once you get the most of it and you're ready to run fresh oil you're going to have to use a minimum of synthetic blend and honestly if it's not that old of a car just use full synthetic and if it breaks open too many leaks you can best believe those leaks were already there and you can back it off to synthetic blend and almost watch those leaks go away again. Sorry for the long version but there is no short version. The short version is what Dad should be giving the kid. I'm telling you this so-called trick works on so many different motors. If you're interested in something for your cooling system, how do you use a half a bottle of CLR in the cooling system and slowly flushed it out of the robber hoses and off metal surfaces especially the radiator and heater core. CLR works wonders you just don't leave it in the system and forget about it besides you have to flush it out with at least three different fill and drains.
100k miles is still high mileage. A surprising amount of vehicles don't last 150k miles. When was the last time you saw a dodge/Plymouth neon? They aren't old, they were everywhere up to about ten years ago, and yet none seem to remain.
Then your pressure sender tube resulted clogged and after flushing, got free. I had the reverse using my flush. God a sender clogged showing a too low pressure. Changed the sender and all got fine. But it worked? And that truck on vid rod bearing knocks because it has already spun.
I’ve been driving for 30 years and before the end of every oil change, I have added everything from 1 quart of kerosine to chain case oil to automatic transmission oil, anything high detergent, and I’ve never had a problem. The car I’m driving now has 287,000 miles. I’ve never had engine issues. I always use full synthetic oil and a Fram oil filter or preferably mobile one oil filter.
This guy owns a dealership 😆 added MMO to all my vehicles 50 yrs running ...my past 5 rides all had over 400,000 when I sold them 👀 my 2015 has 367,000 paid for 😆😆😆 keep being a smart azz ..a fool and there money soon part 😆
So. We started pouring in with a short sleeve shirt on. Somehow, mid pour, we were able to get a red jacket on. We finished it up back in a tee shirt. 🤔 I’m calling BS on the whole thing.
All the old timers used to tell me to do this once a year , I guess they were right, thanks for the video
Sad to see a car treated like this. I bought a used 1979 Celica Gt in 1987 to drive back and forth to work. The original owner had done 3 or 4 oil changes in 8 years. Surprisingly the car ran pretty good. The 20R engine was a beast. A trusted old mechanic told me what to do to clear some of the sludge. I drained the oil, changed the oil filter, added 2 quarts cheap oil and 3 quarts of transmission fluid. I drove it around for a couple of hours, not revving the engine. Drained the oil and was amazed at the chunks of sludge that came out. I did this once more in a month. I ran cheap oil in the car for the next 3 years. I was told that ATF had high levels of detergents. In 1990 I traded it in for a new Isuzu pickup.
My mechanic has done the same thing to his customers cars with gummed up engine. They use a full change worth and let it idle a while.
I bought a 84 SR5 pickup with 22RE I didn't know was abused (by mechanic owner no less). I think he did about the same thing "2 oil changes ever". The filter was rusty!! Anyhow I had my own shadetree method of a mix of mostly Diesel fuel and a little bit of engine oil and kept in its own container and re used for other gummed engines as needed (at my work). The pickup ran okay in buddy's garage and the drive home, I had no idea it was lumpy ooze in the crankcase.
It poured out like partially melted chocolate ice cream with chocolate chips.
After filling with my mixture, and a roughly 7 minutes idle, it poured out like proper oil only a black film left in the bottom of the pan (my mix dissolved the turds still clinging to the inside).
Once full of the correct oil, oh boy it was a symphony of ticking and chain rattle. Game over. Looking back I might have been able to put 3 bottle worth of STP and had it run without the noise.
The transmission was the exact same thing.. black and a lot of silt, once full of fresh stuff I noticed that the OD would not stay in gear. Today if I still had it I bet that Lucas Stop Slip would bring it back but back then there was only proper ATF and Seal Restore solvent.
Hard to believe a mechanic would leave liquid turd in his vehicle.
Uh. 4 quarts is full.
Not 5.
I put sawdust in my engine and it made sort of a tik tik tik peep varoom ! Thank you maam.
not supposed to drive it around when you do that trick. we always just let it idle for 15 min and then drain it. change the filter and add the new fresh oil
@@jonnysnipes3123 i would agree. Probably did not help the engine. It was a real beater, so I was never worried about it.. I definitely would not do that on a more modern engine.
The ppl who are being nasty and rude just shows ignorance he added to his oil to break down the sludge. HE DID NOT REPLACE THE OIL WITH ATF if you have not tried it dont comment on it because before there lucs,seafoam,flushing or anything of that nature transmission fluid was used to clean sluggish engine and oil build up and I'm the son of a mechanic who's the son of a mechanic 80 yrs in my family business and stand by it 100 percent Buddy if it works for you which it did keep up the good work
How much atf would you recommend if a motor takes 4.5 qts
@@lilterrrio19212qrts
i bought a 98 dodge dakota 4x4 5.2 new, it will turn over 400,000 miles by summer, its been an awesome truck, only major problem i had with it was heater core replacement, did water pump at that time to be safe, original transmission is serviced every 50,000 miles, same with transfer case and axles. I just replaced the original starter last summer, truck still has excellent oil pressure, never gets below 40lbs even at idle, everytime i do a transmission fluid change, it gets sprayed onto my frame, rockers, undersides and bedsides. its still a great looking truck yet, people cannot believe it has almost 400,000 on it
Gramps was an old school truck driver. Even did some Arctic Trucking to the circle. He use to do this with Diesel fuel instead of ATF. Worked like a charm.
Thats what I use
I've been doing this to my engines since the 80's when an old time mechanic showed me. I drive a 2016 Ecoboost now, 3.5. Bought in 22. it had what sounds like a stuck cam as the oil would age. did 3 oil changes with Ford oil and it started to become less. switched to Valvoline and, poof, its gone. I use about an 1/8 of trani fluid in the crackcase the day of oil change, drive it for 30 mins and go drop it. runs like a cat ever since. I am running 0-30 weight and will be trying the new Valvoline Restore, which is proving in real world tests to actually remove deposits and clean things up in the engine. you had piston slap, it should free those rings up and smooth things out for you. very good, entertaining video too. good luck sport.
Met a Farmer that did the ATF Qt. on every oil change !
I had ATF (used one quart) ran car for 20 minutes. The car was very abused, all the rings were stuck and it had blow by. It cleaned the sludge so well that hard chunks got free from the internal engine parts and clogged the oil pickup screen even after changing the oil. Pulled the pan and cleaned the screen. The blow by was almost cut in half and the car got another 30,000.
FWIW I had a new 2001 Ram 3.9 six cylinder that clattered (lifters) for 1-2 seconds on a cold start since day one. Never became an issue or got worse; just lifters pumping up.
Idea for next video - "Can Honda ATF fix Erectile Dysfunction?" Enjoyed this video guys - "The power has returned! Yeeehaaar!"
Only low carb diet and no sweets cures ED
When you find out let me know
next time you change your oil, replace one quart with Marvel Mystery Oil and leave it in.
I use mmo 6 oz on every fuel fill up in the gas , engine runs quieter and smoother
😳
MMO is mostly Kerosene
@DanWright-w7x I thought MMO contained mostly stoddard oil which is a substitute for kerosene for lighter fluid
If you want toprevent your doors and wheel wells from rusting, spray atf fluid around inside the door and up inbetween the rear inner and outer panels. Into rocker panels through drain holes. It prevents rust and if you have rust it absolutely stops it
Noted
Yeah and it also cakes up and attracts dirt and dust and will develop a blanket like film
This is like the oldest truck in the book. ATF is basically a 5 weight oil l,Your supposed to drain the oil, and fill it with atf then drive it around and get it good and hot. Drive it 25-30 miles. Then drain it, change the filter and refill with recommended oil. ATF is highly detergent. You’ll never see a transmission techs hands dirty? They are always clean! I’ll dump 2-3 quarts of ATF in the tank of
May 5.9l Cummins on fill up. It lubricated the injection pump and injectors, and keeps everything nice and clean! ATF is the greatest fuel for a diesel additive! You can run old atf thru your diesel to. When changing your trans fluid and doing a pan drop. Drain out your trans pan, keeping everything clean! Aftermarket Maghytec Pans with drain plugs rock! Dump the atf right into your fuel tank! You can dilute with diesel fuel if you want. Same with waste motor oil, there’s guys that run straight waste motor oil in their mechanical diesels. I soundly do it on today’s hi tech electrically emissions diesels. Cummins 12 and 24 valve engines love it. I wouldn’t run straight waste oil in the winter time with out diluting it with diesel fuel 50/50 but a couple quarts of ATF before your oil change or added to your tank when you fill up if great for it!
Better then engine FLUSH. My grandpa told me you can use atf to clean your sludge but only run it 10 mins tops.
I flushed my '02 camry with a full crankcase of cheap ATF. idled it for 10mins., then drove it gently on a surface road at 40mph(following the speed limit) for 10 mi. followed by an oil change with quality oil & filter immediately afterwards. The engine never had any sludge to begin with, but tried out the ATF flush just to keep the internals clean. seemed to have worked well. It gained back some lost power. ATF came out dark & oily but not gritty at all. Same with the previois batch of oil before adding the ATF to flush the oiling system.
I did something similar. Full case of cheap ATF let it idle for 45 minutes, shut her down. Removed the oil filter, put a new one on, topped it off with more ATF, let her idle for another hour gave her a few revs to 2k drained it, put in high mileage filter with motor oil and my oil pressure was perfect after that. Going to do it again next oil change.
@@asleeperj Nice!!
Why not use a thin motor oil like 0W8 instead? You could probably run it for 500 miles.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q because the thin motor oil doesn't have the detergents that ATF fluid has, it wont actually clean anything.
That dog is so damn adorable
I think it's the same a marvel mystery oil ..it's red and cleans well too .. thanks for sharing
I know I’ll get those faces but I was taught at a young age that you substitute 1 quart of oil with non synthetic trans fluid every oil change “per change recommendation” keeps the crap out it really does we still have grandads 76 f150 the insides are immaculate.
I've been doing the exact same thing
do you drain it after running for few minutes or not?
You should run about a quarter to half a quart of ATF in the engine oil every oil change…my buddy has been running it in his rigs for well over 20 years and they work mint with well over 300,000 miles and no issues!
So you do it too?
Good for another 300K miles! Good job!
I had 298k on my old sport trac with original engine and transmission. All you do is maintain and keep your foot out the firewall.
But that’s the metal I put the pedal to
I used to do this in the late 80s on my Mustang. Also unlike most people I used to take the engine apart, frequently, to change the cam and lifters, change the intake, change the heads, change the rockers. No engine I worked on had sludge but we used synthetic and did regular changes. Some of us tracked our cars weekly the rest of us street raced 2 nights a week. Never had a blown engine. The only people that blew engines that I knew, ran the engine at a high RPM for an extended amount of time racing on the highway. Gravity feed oil systems just pump all the oil up top and then the pan doesn't have any more oil and it doesn't return fast enough. The others used a little too much nitrous on a stock unprepped block.
My mechanic does the same thing to customer engine that is heavily gummed up.
He puts i think the full amount though not 1 litre but only lets it idle until they figure the lumps are dissolved.
If it was my truck I would have left it in and drove around a couple days and let it swish off everything.
Probably a lump caught up in the pickup screen starving the pump slightly.
Could have used "Power Steering fluid" or Hydraulic fluid its because there's no additives to thicken as it heats up. ATF and all other Hydraulic class fluids remain at "10" so its like substantially thin and able to splash around and travel through the clogged passages, rinsing them out.
As the turds dissolved, it raised the overall "thickness level" back up. Thick and dirty.
Probably the transmission was ignored as well. No shadetree fix for this. Maybe 50% Lucas stop slip and 50% synthetic fluid as a last resort before a rebuild.
Oh, M.M.O.?
Used to use a 1/3 of a bottle 100 miles prior to an oil change in my last car.
It *seemed* to help…
I once watched a old guy , had a old 74 Impala come in the shop , motor sounded horrible.low power and a slight knock but good oil pressure. He backed it out in the lot and pulled the Air cleaner revved it to 3k and started pouring atf down the carb about 2 quarts.
Made the knock go away and got back to having some guts after setting the timing. Cleaned the carbon off the valves and pistons he said.
Now i just use seafoam, triple threat, throttle and top end clean out does the same thing pretty much and is catalytic converter safe as the old guy told me don't do this on a car with a cat . The wax in atf really does a number on the cat . And to complete the jod seafoam in the tank to clean the injectors ans some in the crank case to quiten up the lifters and clean the oil control rings . If done right it's a miracle worker.
This works for stuck lifters too!
Marvel mystery oil will help over time, the solvents will break down the sludge
Grandpa used to add ATF to oil for noisy lifters. I run Marvel in oil for everything and Fords can get high mileage on gas engines but go ahead and play the game if it makes you feel better. I liked my 99 Ram with 5.9l Magnum v8 except it kept exploding transfer cases under normal operating conditions.
"I don't know if a Ford can get 350k on a gas engine..."
The 5.0 Coyote Modulate V8: "Am I a joke to you?"
all the modulars usually get about 400-500 plus if taken care of.
Got 175k on my 18 f150. Runs great
The Ole 4.9 will go forever!!
4.6 entered the chat
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I bin using a half bottle of trans fluid in every oil change for years. Never hurt my car.
All the doubters have a question to answer. Has anyone seen a working automatic transmission with sludge in it? Nope...why..they run extremely hot at times and sometimes don't get serviced for over 100k miles. Its got a lot of solvents and detergents in it. I have cleaned up a lot of engines this way.
I really like the truck across the road with a camper
I replaced my 02 Ranger motor after screwing up the timing and broke 3 valves. Replacement motor was older. Ran really rough. Replaced all the lifters, still rough. Got cylinder 3 soaking in atf (P03030) we'll see what happens!
Off road diesel works best pour about a quart let it run for about 15-30 minutes at idle and it’s like brand new
I did a oil change swapped out 1 quart oil for 1 quart of transmission fluid after a hour of running the motor the tick noise went away
Flat tappet cams will wipe out with engine flush but todays engines have roller cams and should be fine. Regular oil changes will take care of sludge.
I would use BG Products Flush Kit , it's specifically made for completely flushing out an engine .
She definitely got some power!!!!!!😂 never hot Rodin’ 😅
Buddy is flicking his fleas onto you
I’m going to need to do this to my truck. I did it on my dodge a while ago to get rid of a lifter tick, it’s never come back since. It’s been 100k miles. I need to do this on my Chevy
I like your style all you good people at "Novice Garage" I think I'll be watching from now on. Can I point out things? 1. @5:20 - that radiator is filthy, the fins are coated with dirt. I'm surprised it cools the engine at all how it is. If you can't remove the radiator and clean inside and out, at least you can blow soap through it from the engine side, while still installed?
Very good point.
You can accomplish the same thing with marvel mystery oil. I add it about 100-200 miles b4 I plan to change the oil. The good thing about using marvel is, you’re gonna have a little to the fuel to clean the injectors. Instructions on the bottle. Using fuel injector cleaner and cleaning your throttle body will make a big difference in performance if they’re dirty.
Use a half quart of diesel and one quart of transmission fluid that will clean out the engine
This video 😂😂 I didn't know Seth Rogan was a mechanic! 😂 Good content here.
I really didn't know about that trick.
My oil pressure has been right there on my 97 since I owned it.
You guys back!!
YUUUP
Run the 1qt ATF for the duration of your change interval, or 1000 miles, then keep up on your 5,000 intervals.
I love you , man. You are so entertaining.
Fixed s-10 with gallon of atf in gas tank that had 1/8 tank. Also did engine swap on grand Prix that lady did oil change and used ATF instead of oil. Took out oil pump.
nice!
I have had ford with 120,000 KMs before head gasket went, 1995 Ford falcon. Head Only went because the previous owner who was a taxi owner ran water not coolant. I believe. I was very upset my ex-cab 2010 Camry hybrid got written off because immediate in a big ute reversed into front of my car and punch the computer system out. Faith head over 900,000 ks only part changed by the owner, well major part which was the abs nothing else was touched. Only thing I spent was back set of brake pads and one front wheel bearing in five years and I put 130,000 KMs on it. Now I driving my Nissan patrol and going run a diesel in the motor b4 I change the oil. Cheers Graham
Classic Mopar 318 Or 360 , Good Motors !!
Back in the 70s and 80s models they were bad for the lifters getting jammed open causing the oh so familiar and super annoying non stop"ticktickticktick".
I didn't notice that in the video.
That was the end result of saving $ by not changing oil on time then.
Transmission Fluid In Oil Reduces Cleaning Power
In most cases, adding automatic transmission fluid to motor oil reduces cleaning power. That’s because the detergency of ATF is less than motor oil. Why is that?
ATF is exposed to lower levels of combustion byproducts and contaminants than motor oil, so it is formulated with reduced detergency. Instead, ATFs have elevated levels of friction modifiers and other additives that help protect gears and clutches.
Transmission Fluid In Oil Reduces Wear Protection
Second, adding ATF alters the motor oil formulation and reduces its effectiveness.
A good motor oil is a fine balance of base oils and additives designed to fight wear, reduce friction, prevent deposits and slowly dissolve accumulated sludge. The cleaning power of motor oil is designed to work gradually over subsequent oil changes and not necessarily all at once. Adding a foreign substance to the oil disrupts the formulated chemistry, negatively impacting wear protection, detergency and more.
Yeah, ATF ain't going to fix worn bearings
No, but it will un-gum up valve springs and hydraulic lifters. Which seemed to have been his primary issue.
@@nikdog419 Very little difference between motor oil, and ATF. Primarily viscosity improvers, and the concentration of additives (motor oil having significantly more).
Frequently they use the same grade of base oil to make both, ATF doesn't clean, can't clean, as the differences between the two is extremely small beyond concentration of additives. If anything one could take ATF, add more additives and make it into motor oil, engineering wise they are virtually identical. They simply use different amounts of the same additives, and a higher viscosity improvers/modifiers.
He simply poured in a very low grade oil (additive wise) which burns as it was never intended to be used near combustion.
@@GainingDespair Doesn't ATF have more detergents in it or is everyone just talking shit in the other vids
@@RoxusRemo No, it actually has basically none, there was a point in time where it had detergent, and during this period of time motor oil was detergent free.
It was true at one point of time, and like most things which travel word of mouth there was some truth to it. However we are talking a good 50-60 years ago when this was a thing. Long enough ago where it doesn't apply anymore, yet not too long where past mechanics didn't recommend it to those working under them as apprentices.
Modern ATF, and motor oil both have the same exact base oil, from that stuff is added to both. Transmissions no longer have detergents in them because the base quality oil is purified enough not to cause build up, however detergents are needed in motor oil due to them experiencing combustion. The by product of combustion increases the acidity of motor oil, detergents prevent this for the most part until the oil needs to be replaced while also bonding to carbon in the motor oil to increase the size of it (so the oil filter can catch it).
@@GainingDespair Thanks for the detailed answer!
I believe in using ATF.I think he should of run it longer.What i do is add 1 or quart atf with oil and run it for few hundred miles.But it can work pretty fast but need to keep up on the cleaning so it dont get to heavy inside.
Hey I also did that and used diesel along with it that works even better
I use a zip lock bag over the filter. Less mess
I loved this video man made me smile good one 🤝🏿
No oil in the Filter means the Anti-drainback valve on the filter quit working or was blocked clogged by something in it.
I put a pint of brake fluid in a crankcase with 5.5 quarts new motor oil. Do you think that will do anything bad for 5,000 miles?
For that high of milage need 10w40 its way better for it nd it will bring the oil pressure up
With a little lucus oil treatment 💪🚬
@@rockytop4 im more of fr3 friction reducer when i change my oil i fill it with that fr3 put it on nd fill the oil nd the engine runs smooth as butter
MAN!!!! You have any idea how expensive that Honda transmission fluid is? Lol!
He probably wanted the shelf space back, and, he did actually use it though not it's intended purpose. Today's oils have an expiry date printed on so leaving it sit someone else might not buy it off him, and even if it was "expired" it's perfect for the purpose of swishing the crud off the bottom of his pickup engine.
This shouldn't be an old-timer secret this should be in every day average Joe piece of knowledge. I've been doing this with cars for so long and you can only do wrong if you do it to the wrong motor. If it's really really really really really bad I'd say just stick with one quart and then drive it for a 100 miles or let it idle for a couple hours. You don't want to break everything up at once because the oil screens will indeed get clogged. You want the proper flush product to actually turn a lot of those chunks into sludge as fast as possible but ATF will loosen those big chunks quick. You don't want to pile of chunks blocking your screen. I personally would use some carefully separated used oil and 2 quarts of ATF on the second one. Again only driving it for a hundred miles or idling for like an hour at least. Once you get the most of it and you're ready to run fresh oil you're going to have to use a minimum of synthetic blend and honestly if it's not that old of a car just use full synthetic and if it breaks open too many leaks you can best believe those leaks were already there and you can back it off to synthetic blend and almost watch those leaks go away again. Sorry for the long version but there is no short version. The short version is what Dad should be giving the kid. I'm telling you this so-called trick works on so many different motors. If you're interested in something for your cooling system, how do you use a half a bottle of CLR in the cooling system and slowly flushed it out of the robber hoses and off metal surfaces especially the radiator and heater core. CLR works wonders you just don't leave it in the system and forget about it besides you have to flush it out with at least three different fill and drains.
You guys are hilarious and I love buddy
we have -40c in quebec we never block a rad for not diesel truck never
Atf is a cleaner naturally
use a diesel oil like Rotella which has a very High Detergent package , or add 1 quart of Diesel fuel to oil and run for about 500miles
Great point!
How much ATF did you put in? Just 1 quart to 5 quarts of old oil?
Those rod bearings are hanging on for dear life.
Dodge truck oil gauges are dummy gauges they don’t show true pressure. You need to hook up an actual gauge if you want to see true pressure.
I just may have to try this on my Lincoln navigator with over 200k just might take away the hesitation, but will any other atf work?
Did you say straight ATF or added some to the oil?
You gotta put some miles on the engine with atf. It's not gonna do a full clean in just a little bit of driving.
Diesel / atf both do the job .
Use old oil bottle for funnel.
What is lit up on the dash?
Check engine light? Something else?
The gas light
75k is not high mileage any more. 150k to 200k is high mileage now days
100k miles is still high mileage. A surprising amount of vehicles don't last 150k miles. When was the last time you saw a dodge/Plymouth neon? They aren't old, they were everywhere up to about ten years ago, and yet none seem to remain.
Can i use DW1 instead ATF Z1. If I use it, is there a problem.
You guys are hilarious!!😂
What about the knocking? Did it stop it?
By the color of the oil in the dipstick after atf run, it was pure psycologic improviment.
Oil pressure double though, or more. That's not just psychological
Then your pressure sender tube resulted clogged and after flushing, got free. I had the reverse using my flush. God a sender clogged showing a too low pressure. Changed the sender and all got fine. But it worked? And that truck on vid rod bearing knocks because it has already spun.
Trusting an old ass factory Guage cluster that old is wacky lol
Update pls
How I feel when I add coolant to my car and it stops overheating….
40 yr user MMO 💪
I have a 2000 F150 4.2 L has 492,000 miles off
It won’t blow it up as long as you do it right and correctly, cheapest and fastest way of doing it
Why Honda atf fluid?
I change oil in all my cars every 3000 miles. Use some sea foam sometimes because I don’t want to use atf to do that. Oil is cheap. Engines are not…
Mobile 1 is trash cheap oil in oil test results..it fails epicly...try valvolines new advanced protection..or royal purple
I used Valvoline advanced synthetic oil and drove up mountain caused my oil bubbles like crazy then my bearing knocks in 1 year later.
That day was my birthday lol
Why not use seafoam
Blown head gasket video coming soon
Cardboard smothering the rad face, yikes. Temp up way too fast.
3:44 What a sweet bubba 😭🥰
Try 475k on a ford gas engine, changing oil every 75-80k
next : add something hot in the tank to burn all that carbon deposit 😁👊🏼
That not a stock exhuast it?! Sounds beefy as hell
Putting anything other than the designated oil in your crankcase is a sure shot way to fuck up everything. Dont touch any of my cars!
It's best not to ignore oil changes that's the whole story!
I’ve been driving for 30 years and before the end of every oil change, I have added everything from 1 quart of kerosine to chain case oil to automatic transmission oil, anything high detergent, and I’ve never had a problem. The car I’m driving now has 287,000 miles. I’ve never had engine issues. I always use full synthetic oil and a Fram oil filter or preferably mobile one oil filter.
This guy owns a dealership 😆 added MMO to all my vehicles 50 yrs running ...my past 5 rides all had over 400,000 when I sold them 👀 my 2015 has 367,000 paid for 😆😆😆 keep being a smart azz ..a fool and there money soon part 😆
So. We started pouring in with a short sleeve shirt on. Somehow, mid pour, we were able to get a red jacket on. We finished it up back in a tee shirt. 🤔 I’m calling BS on the whole thing.
Buddy!!!!
Well done buddy. Thanks for the knowledge 👍👍🇮🇪